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Rick Steves' Istanbul

Updates since the fourth edition:

Orientation

The price of a token (jeton) or single-ride ticket on the public transit system is now 2 TL.

The TI near Taksim Square in the New District has moved to Mete Caddesi 6 (short walk from the square, tel. 0212/233-0592).

The International Hospital has a new phone number at 0212/468-4444.

Sights

The following sights have new hours (and be aware that hours are always subject to change, especially in Istanbul, so consider confirming times before heading out):

• Hagia Sophia: Tue–Sun 9:00–19:00, until 17:00 off-season, closed Mon, last entry is one hour before closing.

• Underground Cistern (a.k.a. Basilica Cistern): daily 9:00–18:30, until 17:00 off-season.

• Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum: Tue–Sun 9:00–19:00, until 17:00 off-season, closed Mon.

• Topkapi Palace: Wed–Mon 9:00–19:00, off-season until 17:00, closed Tue, last entry one hour before closing, exhibits begin to close one hour earlier. Also: there's no longer an exchange office or post office near the ticket booth.

• Istanbul Archaeological Museum (all three sections): Tue–Sun 9:00–19:00, until 17:00 off-season, closed Mon.

Dolmabahçe Palace is accessible only with a guided tour, available in English (15 TL for Selamlik section, 10 TL for Harem, 20 TL for both sections).

The Ethnographic Department of the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum may be closed for renovation during your visit.

The Atatürk Cultural Center (AKM) at Taksim Square, which normally hosts ballet, opera, and symphony performances, is closed for renovation, probably through 2013.

The Galata Monastery (known for its Whirling Dervishes) remains under renovation through fall of 2012.

You can now reach the Chora Church by tram and light rail (which makes sense from Sultanahmet, but less so from the New District, unless you're near the tram line): Ride the tram to the Topkapi stop (nowhere near Topkapi Palace; direction: Zeytinburnu), then transfer to light rail and ride three stops to Edirnekapi (direction: Habibler). This leaves you outside the old city walls, but within walking distance of the church: Facing the walls, head left and cross the highway at the traffic light. Continue to a second traffic light behind the wall and cross Fevzipasa Street. Take the first left (Vaiz Sokak, just past the bus stop), and then the third right (Kariye Camii Sokak) to reach the church.

The Bosphorus ferry leaves April–Oct at 10:35 and 13:35 (additional departures possible in peak season); in Nov–March it departs at 10:35 only. For information visit www.sehirhatlari.com.tr/en — select "Bosphorus Tours," then click on "Full Bosphorus Cruise").

Sleeping

Some hotels in Istanbul offer free pickup from Ataturk Airport if you book directly with them for at least a 3-night stay (book for 5 days and they'll throw in the return trip). Even if you don't qualify for a free airport transfer, hotels can arrange an airport shuttle. However, it might not be the cheapest — a €25 hotel shuttle to the airport is no deal given that it's easy to arrange a €5 shuttle through many Old Town travel agencies (though you may need to catch the bus at the travel agency, rather than at your hotel).  

The Sultan Hostel has a new email address: sultan@sultanhostel.com.

The Hotel Troya has a new email address: info@hoteltroya.com.

The 5 oda SC Apartments have a new email address: stay@5oda.com.

Hotel Stone SC has changed their website to www.stonehotelistanbul.com, and no longer offers a 10 percent discount for paying in cash.

Blue House SC and Hotel Valide Sultan SC no longer offer a 10 percent discount for paying in cash.

Eating

We no longer recommend Tarihi Subasi Restaurant, as diners are regularly overcharged.

Most restaurants' indoor spaces are now non-smoking.

Caferaga Medresesi has changed their email for their classes to caferagamedrese@tkhv.org.         

Havuzbasi Restaurant and Tea House has whirling dervishes nightly at 21:00 only from mid-May through August.

Changa is closed four months of the year (mid-June–mid-Oct), when they open the Müzedechanga restaurant at the Sakip Sabanci Museum.