Graffiti Wall: New Back Doors

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New Back Doors: 2005

Europe still holds Back Door destinations - off-beat nooks and crannies that are short on crowds and long on culture. Or an activity can be a Back Door: a festival no tourist seems to know about, a sporting event you can join, a local language class. What's your best Back Door discovery or experience?

Shere, England
Our family friends told us about a little town near London, Shere, so when we went to Britain for three weeks last summer we decided to give it a try. It's really hard to find - we had Mapquest directions but still had to ask directions more than once. It's near guildford and dorking. Or, like our friends, you can take a string of trains and buses. Either way, it was totally worth it. The town has it all: crumbling stone walls, twisty streets, half-timbered shops, a village square with a market cross, a steepled church and picturesque cemetery, and a little stream where friendly ducks paddle happily - all w/out a tourist in sight. the local pub, the White Horse, has a maze of old rooms that bring the Lord of the Rings to mind. Or you can eat at the Lucky Duck, a sunny tearoom by the stream. ask anyone in town for directions to the blacksmith forge. You can walk there about a mile from town and watch the village blacksmith make stuff. Shere is the ultimate British Back door right between London, Stonehenge and the Cotswolds.
BL
Los Altos, CA USA Tue 12/27/2005

Bad Kreuznach, Germany
I was pleasantly surprised when I recently spent the night in Bad Kreuznach, Germany. The picturesque old town has half-timbered houses on the bridge over the Nahe River, with lots of cafes, restaurants and winestubes. Vineyards come down almost to the river from the ruined castle on the hill overlooking the old town. There is a thermal bath less than a quarter of a mile from the bridge, where you can take your own cure for 6.50 Euros. The balcony of the room at the Muhlentor Hotel opened out to the Nahe River and a view of the bridge. It was spotlessy clean and modern, all for 42 Euros. The food at the Muhlentor was terrific. Every table in the restaurant was packed, and after eating there, I knew why.
Ken Mitchell <email>
Fullerton, CA USA Wed 12/07/2005

If you truly want to get off the beaten path and visit an obscure Romanian village near Sibiu, Romania, check out Sibiel (about 30 minutes from Sibiu) and visit Reghina Popa's Pension to have "Dinner at the Peasants". Not only does Reghina offer a bed & breakfast in this cozy farming community in rural Romania, but her authentic Romanian dinner is truly plentiful and tasty. My group visited this place last November, 2005, and thoroughly enjoyed the bountiful dinner. You can reach Rhegina at girl_gety@yahoo.com or at 0269-0552559 (phone). Her daughter speaks very good English.
Peter Tadin <email>
Austin, Texas USA Thu 12/01/2005

Flores Island, Azores
This is a way-out back, back door. The Azore Islands are changing at a break-neck speed, but still have the feel and tranquility of old Europe. The farther you go (West), the better it gets. Flores Island is the gem, and the best village is Faja Grande. Camping on Europe's western-most shore, and catching the final sunset in Europe, is a bragging point for sure. I kept going back till I built a house on the shoreline, which, when I am not there is available to anyone. The people and culture are Portuguese, but with an Azorean twist. The people are friendly, and the food is great, wine cheap and plentiful. I find the remoteness, beauty, and endless ocean just magical. It's an environmental high.
Ken Whitehead <email>
San Diego, CA USA Wed 11/16/2005

Anghiari and Lucignano
Just returned from a month in Europe. I thought I'd already found all the Back Doors in Toscana, but my cousin took me to two FANTASTIC towns that I'd never even heard of before, Anghiari and Lucignano. You can see photos of 'em both in my on-line photo albums at http://www.picturetrail.com/bepineurope I've also posted other all-new pics from this trip. If you like back doors go to these two towns, you'll love 'em, trust me! :-)
Bob C. <email>
N Little Rock, AR USA Wed 11/16/2005

Normandy France
If you can, I absolutely suggest renting a car in Caen and taking a drive through country-side France to Bayeux taking the Normandy beaches route. Amazing! Quaint small towns, beaches, aah. Been back for 2 weeks and I'm STILL going through withdrawal. I envy you all who's just about to embark on their journey!
Marc <email>
Seattle, WA USA Wed 11/09/2005

Iceland
I just got back from 2 weeks in Iceland and was amazed by the beauty and isolantion. Reykjavik is a fantastic northern european city. Check it out.
Dave Ruffin <email>
Pleasant Hill, CA USA Sun 10/30/2005

Eibelstadt, Germany
About an hour's drive from the Frankfurt airport and 10 minutes from the autobahn, south of Wurzburg. Beautiful walled town, excellent hotel, the Zum Ross. An excellent wine stube nearby. Cobblestone courtyard and town square. Close to Rothenburg and Dinklesbuhl. Owner speaks English and serves wonderful food. Rates less than $50 Euro. We are headed back next year. Its a nice place to spend the first couple of days, getting rid of jet lag.
Ken Norris <email>
Clear Spring, Md USA Mon 10/24/2005

They're Everywhere
A "back door" is anywhere you choose to find one. All that is required to enter is an openness to new things, a healthy dose of the ability to ignore unpleasantness, a friendly and happy outlook and a willingness to be outgoing. Even in the midst of crushing crowds and tacky tourist traps you can find wonderful things by watching people.
Paul n Sara <email>
Newburyport , MA USA Fri 10/21/2005

skocjan caves
Rick's best of eastern europe book is absolutley right about the skocjan caves.I, My wife, daughter and son in law spent two nights in Ljubljana, Slovenia in sept. We took a day trip to first the Postojna caves and then the skocjan caves. the postojna caves were beautiful, but more touristy than the skocjan caves. We had trouble finding a cab to take us back to Divaca, but in the end the three mile walk back through the woods to Divaca was a treat in itself! Slovenia is a beautiful country!
Mike Smith <email>
Alhambra, Ca USA Sun 10/16/2005

Meiringen, Switzerland
For those people who must experience the Interlaken, Jungfrau, Grindelwald area... the Meiringen/Hasliberg/Brienz area (www.alpenregion.ch) is an adjoining region that provides a less expensive and equally satisfying Berner-Oberlander experience. Meiringen is located just east of Brienz, which is on the east end of Brienzersee. Ballenberg and Brienzer Rothorn steam train are very close, and Interlaken is easily accessable by either train, bus, boat or car. The hiking around Meiringen is fabulous. Lots of valleys and trails use Meiringen as the hub. You can easily see the north side the Jungfrau, Monch and Eiger from the Hasliberg area, and hike from the Rosenlaui area over Grosse Scheidegg, into the beautiful Grindelwald vally. While Meiringen is still a tourist centre, it's visited more by European tourists, so it isn't overpowered by tour buses and the glitz that Lauterbrunnen/Grindelwald seem to attract. We really enjoyed our 10 days in Meiringen and would highly recommend this area to base your stay. We stayed in an apartment, but there are also a number of good, small hotels in the valley.
Susan Hoyles
Prince George, BC, CAN Fri 10/14/2005

Dartmoor
To really get a taste of Dartmoor, spend the night in Princetown in the middle of the moor. There's a great 5-mile walk (mostly along an abandoned RR line) that begins just a 5-min bus ride west of Princetown and takes you back to Princetown. The Transmoor Link bus (#82) provides access on Sat/Sun (and maybe all week in the summer).
Marcia <email>
Spokane, WA USA Mon 10/10/2005

Cornwall in September
Cornwall in September is fantastic! The crowds are gone, but everything is still open and transit is still on the "summer" schedule. Great weather too! Don't worry about renting a car. The buses (and trains) can take you everywhere. We stayed in Penzance and Falmouth, with day trips to Land's End and St. Ives. Walking the coastal path near Land's End is a not-to-be-missed experience.
Marcia <email>
Spokane, WA USA Mon 10/10/2005

Lithuania
We just returned from Lithuania - I first visited 32 years ago and have been back several times over the last six years. Each time brings changes - I think that the time is right to encourage travelers to visit these newly independent countries. I have to say that the food and accomodations were great...I suggest staying in 3/4 star hotels. The rates are less than large cities in Europe, but not inexpensive. Food is quite reasonable and certainly as good as we found in Germany. There is much to see and English is frequently spoken. The main roads are great and well-designed. Unfortunately, there is a lot of theft with rental cars. They do have train service and it's possible to hire a car with driver at a reasonable cost. It may still be more suitable for the more independent traveler but it is a beautiful country and the people are very hospitable.
Susan Clark <email>
GLEN ELLYN, IL USA Wed 09/28/2005

Koufonissia, Greece
One of my favorite new spots is the Island of Koufonissia, in the Cyclades, Greece. Accessible from Naxos daily; this is a small island with a working fishing fleet. Busy in July and August, perfect in September. Nothing there but some of the best beaches in Greece without the crowds. Paid 25 Euro/per night for a double with AC, fridge, and a fantastic view of the harbor; stuffed ourselves on 20 to 25 Euro (for two) meals at night; cheap wine and beer from groceries during the day. There are three other islands in the chain (known as the lesser/minor/little cyclades); now I wonder what treasures I might find there.
Paul <email>
IA USA Tue 09/27/2005

Slovenia in Spring
I was very impressed with what I saw in Slovenia March 2005. Ljubjlana didn't blow me away but was pretty in the old town near the dragon bridge and three-bridges areas.

I was blown away, however, by one of the most fascinating sites I've ever visited, Predjama Castle near Postonja, about 50 miles from the capitol. This wondrous castle is built into the sheer sides of cliffs and is surrounded by caves in the hillside behind it. Seemingly a growth from the side of the cliff is an unifnpregnable castle built into the cliff and caves itself. The renovation inside was not elaborate but I enjoyed the tour pamphlet that we got with our ticket that followed a routed self-tour inside. Also, the stream that ran through the canyon below flows directly under the castle and disappears inside the rock. That is amazing in itself. Also, nearby are the worthwhile Predjama Caverns.

Also in Slovenia, I loved the area around Bled. Fantastic scenery on a beautiful lake, mountainous scenery, relaxing pace (though you can tell it gets going in summer).
Will <email>
San Diego, ca USA Mon 09/12/2005

Do Your Research!
I think finding "back doors" is a great way to experience real Europe, but do your research! It can backfire on you. Case in point. I was looking for a backdoor in Lichtenstein and found a little town in the hills called Schellenburg. We arrived on a day when the town's only hotel was closed for their quiet day (we like to look for places to stay, off-the-cuff to preserve spontaneity) and the owners of towns only private rooms-for-rent were away on vacation. The town was more residential, (we never did see a downtown area) and was very hilly, making getting around on foot with backpacks difficult. However the whole experience turned out well, as we decided since we had to start heading back to Frankfurt for our flight home, we would try to find a place along the way.We ended up stopping in St Gallen Switzerland, which is charming town, with a large pedestrian only zone, a huge, beautiful cathedral, and a magnificant abbey library.
Martin <email>
Livermore, Ca USA Sat 09/03/2005

Bicycle Tours in The Netherlands
Our group of four just finished one of the group barge and bicycle tours of Freisland in the northern part of the Netherlands. The cost covered the meals, nightly stays in a stateroom on a barge that traveled to the daily bike trip destination and bike rentals for 8 days. Our group consisted of only 22 people from other countries with ages from about 40 to 8o years old and was the best way to see the rural countryside on hundreds of miles of bike trails. Daily trips were from 45k to 65k per day with stops. Check them out next time for an enjoyable vacation.
Howard <email>
Ridgefield, WA USA Thu 09/01/2005

Haute Provence
Theres still plenty of back doors in Haute Provence. Im just wrapping up my visit. On a walk to town today I passed an old sheep herder with his sheep, goats, and two little dogs (who were easily distracted). Without a word of English and probably only a dozen in French (but plenty of hand jestures) I learned the smallest ones were less than a year old, and the oldest were three years, where they lived, and how often they went for walks. I told him about my profession and where I had been during the last two weeks. Of course I have no idea what he understood. Evidently, I had gone places he has never seen. Amazing. But the point is thereare still plenty of places where theyre excited to talk to a tourist who doesnt speak a single sentance of French even when they have no expectation of making money off of us.
Eric
Berkeley, CA USA Fri 08/26/2005

Derbyshire Peak District
We just returned from a three week trip to the UK. When we visit we try to explore a new part--this time it was Derbyshire Peak District. If you enjoy beautiful countryside with rolling hills and stone houses and walls, hiking, and historic places. This is for you. The Monsal Head provides one of the best views of Derbyshire. A must see is Chatsworth House, which has a more rooms open than most of the historic homes we've visited. It is filled with beautiful artwork and furnishings. Mary Queen of Scots was "imprisoned" there. The gardens are beautiful as well. Plan to have lunch or tea here--three restaurants to choose from. There is also a farm shop on the property which is a nice place to have tea and cake. We liked Chatsworth even more than Blenheim (which we liked a lot). Another Peak District find was the market town of Bakewell. Parking was hard to find on market day but we went back the next day earlier in the day. Lots of quaint shops. We will definitely plan another trip to the Peak District.
Cindy
San Ramon, CA USA Sun 08/14/2005

Ferragosto festivals in Lazio
August 14th and 15th the town of Vetralla,68 kms north of Rome, holds colorful processions in honor of the Madonna ( on Sunday, 14th, held once every 25 years ) and the 15th a similar procession honoring patron saint Ippolito includes horsemen, costumed Roman guards.
mary jane
USA Thu 08/04/2005

Perazzi factory
In the small town of Brescia,near Laga di Garda (East of Milan), is the Perazzi shotgun factory.

This is an amazing place to see the master-apprentice artisan philosophy. 20 year olds watching 70 year olds hand-engrave, hand carve, and otherwise handmake every aspect of the beautiful shotguns. The only machining done is the forging/boring of the barrels.

Tours are incredible. Buying one is WELL out of my price range, but watching the process of hand manufacturing a product which is a combination of precision tool and work of art is amazing.

www.perazzi.com
Pat
Tue 08/02/2005

Rolls Royce Museum
Dornbrin, Austria has an excellent museum for this elegant vehicle. It is a private collection that we stumbled into while driving from Switz to Austria.8 euros to see this collection. just google rolls royce museum dornbrin
JS
CA USA Wed 07/27/2005

NORMANDY
Although frequented by tourists, rent a car and just find places along the road such as german cemetaries, old bunkers, etc. A whole new world opens up when you rent a car for Europe.
marc
Greenwich, ct USA Sat 07/23/2005

Malta
Malta, part of the European Union, is a tiny (like 10 x 20 mile) island nation (population about 400,000) just south of Sicily, just 200 miles east of Tunisia. I remember at school the foreign exchange advisor said " Why don't you try Malta? It's the land of mystery". Well, there is no mystery. Malta is just glorious sunshine and bad food. There's lots of history and the capital Valleta is incredible looking but the food is so bad. The culinary traditions of Europe stopped at Italy. If you like the sea, friendly people go to Malta. Only US$300.00 flight from the continent.
Linda
Houston, TX USA Wed 07/20/2005

Bavaria's small villages
If you want to experience small town Germany but still be close to many attractions I suggest you base yourself in Bavaria. We stayed in Vohringen for three weeks and made day trips to many churches, castles, and parks. We were 20 minutes by train from Ulm. The Muenster in Ulm has the tallest church spire in Europe. Blaubern, Rotenberg, Ottobeuren, Ginsburg and Fussen are just a few of the small towns within an hours drive. Most of the people we encountered speak at least some English although there aren't many American visitors. Asking locals will often lead you to unexpected treats--churches, castles, breweries in monasteries, local festivals, ect. Some of the towns will have brochures in English at Visitor Information.
Norma Szabo <email>
Chehalis, WA USA Wed 07/20/2005

Norddal, Norway
Just returned from 10 days in Norway. The highlight of the trip was the tiny fjord village of Norddal, More og Romsdal. Idyllic scenery, no tourists and no troll kitsch. Petrine's Guesthouse, a lovingly restored 1916 former old folks home, offered wonderful local cuisine. The nearby high summer pasture of Heraldsetra, full of frisky goats and fjord ponies, was charm itself, even on a rainy afternoon.
K. Riley
Tucson , AZ USA Wed 07/20/2005

Groznjan, Croatia
Consider visiting the Istrian Peninsula of Croatia and staying in the little hilltop town of Grozjan. I stayed in a room above the Cafe Pintur (arranged by the local TI office) for $30 a night. The staff were very warm and friendly and you can eat cheaply "al fresco" at their cafe. The town is very small but very picturesque. From Groznjan is very easy to day-trip to Pula, Rovinj, and Porec as well as little towns like Hum, Roc, and Motovan.
Peter
Salem, OR USA Mon 07/18/2005

Ravensburg, Germany
Consider staying in the old walled town of Ravensburg, Germany if you are travelling between Munich and Switzerland. The town has a lot of interesting buildings, ancient walls and towers and a lot of pedestrian-only streets to wander up and down in. I stayed at the Hotel Obertur which was nice. But be careful of their advice on where to park. The hotel manager told me it was okay to park on the street down from the hotel only to find it was towed because they hold the Saturday market every week on this steet. Cost almost $200 to retrieve the car.
Peter
Sal;em, OR USA Mon 07/18/2005

Try Marktoberdorf in Germany!
Our recent trip to Europe included Bavaria. We wanted to spend some time in Munich, and also see the Ludwig castles. I looked into hotels in both places, but I figured that Munich is a big city (like Chicago) and Fuessen is a touristy town (like Lake Geneva, WI), and I wanted to find the "plain town" in between. I printed the train itinerary between Munich and Fuessen. Marktoberdorf was about equidistant between the two and had a cute name, so I looked for hotels there. I selected Hotel Dubrovnik because they e-mailed me promptly and had good prices. Using Mappy.com, I found that it is about 1Km from the train station, which was easily walkable. We were very pleased! We were the only tourists in town! Everyone in town was VERY friendly. The hotel is actually operated by Croatian people. It includes a restaurant that serves typical German fare for fair prices. The rooms were very clean and actually had a double bed plus a set of bunk beds for 50Euros per night. The bathroom has a stand-up shower and is clean. No elevator, but our room was on the European first floor. Breakfast is included and is EXCELLENT. They serve hot and cold drinks, sausage, cheese, bread, jam, etc, and make you boiled eggs when you arrive. The only drawback is that it's on a fairly busy street, so noise can be an issue, especially with windows open. No AC. I think there weren't phones, but we didn't want them! No laundromat in town, but some nice restaurants and stores (including a Woolworths!)
Carol Sabbar <email>
Kenosha, WI USA Sat 07/16/2005

Orkney Islands
We loved the Orkney Islands, good food, good music, and Europe's best collection of neolithic sites. Recommendations: there is not much public transportation so bring a car by ferry, stay in the quaint village of Stromness, Stromness only has about four restaurants so get reservations for dinner, in the early evening some of them turn into bars and won't allow children so check on that, the Orkney cheese and ice cream are fantastic, the Lonely Planet guidebook to Britain is useful for a list of things to see. Have fun.
Oakley Gordon
Salt Lake City, Ut USA Thu 07/14/2005

Beer: Europe's Best
Believe it or not, it's a Welsh Beer called Brains Bitter Ale. Go to Cardiff, a beautiful town with a beautiful beer.
Brian Seiler <email>
Souderton, PA USA Mon 07/11/2005

Baltimore, Ireland area
West Cork Ireland is a hidden treasure. We spent a week in an apartment in Baltimore and were able to enjoy the neighboring islands, harbor, castles, and beautiful vistas. With a base in Baltimore or Skibbereen you have access to a real Ireland experience without many tourists. We stayed at the Harbour View Apartments, run by Sarah, a very hardworking young woman. The weekly rate was reasonable (for Ireland!) and the apartments were new, clean, lovely, and had a great view of the harbor, and a couple of blocks to the store. Check it out at www.harbourapartments.com
Debra <email>
OR USA Thu 07/07/2005

Sopron, Hungary
If you want an affordable gateway to Eastern Europe that is accesible to the West, then I highly suggest Sopron, Hungary. This border town, only an hour from Wien, is where my husband and I just spent a week working at a conference.

First and foremost, the town is adorable with loads of history. You can go to the border between Austria and Hungary and see where the infamous "picnic" took place when the Iron Curtain fell. There are Roman ruins, important world event places, wonderful authentic Hungarian food, amazing local guides, great low prices, and very few tourists.

We stayed at the Hotel Wollner, which for 65 Euro a night was the most amazing accomodations and Breakfast that we had for our entire three week trip.

It is also only 3 hours from Budapest! Email me for more info.
Nicole <email>
Chicago, IL USA Tue 07/05/2005

Dear Rachel of Fayetteville, Arkansas
Hello. I was in western Slovenia this past April. Would you like me to help you with transportation information? Please inform mw where in Italy you will be staying and what locations in Slovenia you are interested in seeing. You are welcome to contact me directly by clicking on "e-mail" after my name. I have fallen in love with Slovenia. Chances are you will too.
Jerry Scott Horn <email>
Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA Mon 06/20/2005

Galaxidi, Greece
If/when you visit Delphi, try to go on your own instead of a bus tour. When you finish with Delphi, continue driving west down to the Gulf of Corinth and the town of Galaxidi. One could stay here for a while as there are several hotels and pensions. There are also several good outdoor cafes and tavernas on the waterfront with views of the surrounding mountains.
Woody
USA Thu 06/16/2005

Newark Castle, Port Glasgow
Newark Castle, in Port Glasgow, Scotland, is a wonderfully preserved small castle. When we visited there last month (while in the area on a cruise with 2600 other tourists), we were literally the only ones there. Deborah, the woman who was working there that day, got out her sword collection and let us have a sword fight in the banquet hall. It's covered by the British Heritage pass, but if you don't have one, it's only a couple of GBP admission. The local tourist board is now starting to advertise the area, so it may not be a backdoor much longer, but for now most tourists (including the hordes of cruise ship passengers that dock in nearby Greenock) seem to be passing the place by.
Beth
Edmonds, WA USA Tue 06/14/2005

St Anton, Austria
Haus Feuerstein in St. Jakob Austria is a great spot in the St. Anton ski resort area of western Austria . In summer the crowds leave and many of the zimmers close for shoulder season, but not all. We paid $25 Euros a night PP, for a newly remodeled chatau. Clean, quiet, modern and a very good breakfast included. Nearby, the city has a ski lift that took people up for parasailing, or trail walking. The lift was full, mostly for walkers of all ages. There are also plenty of trails around the town. They have a website www.arlberg.com/haus.feuerstein.
Mary Lee Camarata <email>
Houston , tx USA Tue 06/14/2005

Die Saalburg
A very short bus ride from the charming town of Bad Homburg, Hessen, is a beautifully reconstructed Roman fort on the Limes, (think "limit")the great dividing line between Roman and "barbarian" Europe. The ditch the Romans dug as part of their fortification is still there, though the wall is, of course, a replica of the original. The little museum is full of practical and personal items dug out of the abandoned wells of the old fortress. You can see dice which must be very similar to the ones tossed by the soldiers on crucifixion detail at Calvary. The layout of the fort bears an eery resemblance to the few old California towns which still have their original Spanish central square. The Saalburg stands in the lovely Taunus Mountains, where trails beckon you onward through woods of beech, chestnut, oak and larch trees to goals near or far; you can tailor your walk to your time or ability. All of this is within a short S-Bahn ride from Frankfurt. The "tourists" whom you meet will be mostly local people, notably school children. It's a wonderful place to learn about the past while people-watching in the present.
Meg Rosenfeld <email>
Santa Rosa, CA USA Mon 06/13/2005

Slovenia
I would like to spend a weekend in Slovenia, particularly the Soca Valley (Kobarid and Dreznica perhaps?), but I am having difficulty finding could transportation info. Has anyone got any advice on bus travel between the Italian border (I'll be living in Rome) and this region? Costs and timetables? All I can find is bus schedules within Slovenia. Thank you!
Rachel W.
Fayetteville, AR USA Sat 06/11/2005

Back Door Sarajevo
If you drink from the fountain in Pigeon Square in Sarajevo, locals claim you will return--this must work, since I just got back from my third visit. In May, I went there with my husband and we took our 22-year-old daughter and a colleague. Here are some tips for a great visit:

HOTELS- my first choice, hands down, is the Guest House Halvat, www.halvat.com.ba, halvat@bih.net.ba. This is a small pension run by Valida and Muma, with the able assistance of Gigi (pronounced "Geegee") the world's nicest dalamation. I go to visit GiGi even if I'm not staying there (and I'm a cat person normally). Book early, as they have a total of just five rooms. They will arrange transportation to and from the airport for you if you need it.

As for hotels... Skip the nicely-located (inside the old town) but overrated Villa Orient. As our friend said, they got the fountain in the lobby right and that's about it. The rooms are small, very clean, but with the unfortunate addition of a keyless entry system, good in theory, but this one opens the rooms with a LOUD buzzing and click, which could be heard all night long...made me feel as though I was in maximum security. They had nice uniforms here but no customer service. No coffee cups at breakfast, and when I asked for some, it took some 15 minutes before we saw the server again. The coffee was placed out in a small carafe, too small for the number of guests in the dining room, plus it was never hot.

We had to vacate our rooms after two days because of a large party checking in, and they did help us in locating another hotel, the Hotel Emona, erweil-d@bih.net.ba. Although smaller, this was a wonderful experience. The employees were warm and friendly and they had the greatest coffee, and a much better breakfast than the Orient. It's located a five minute walk from the old town.

MOSTAR A woman who worked at Emona arranged a driver to take us to Mostar. This old town is located in Herzegovina, about a two hour drive from Sarajevo and well worth it. It it the location of a beautiful, arched white stone 15th-century bridge that was blown up during the Balkan wars in the 1990s, recently restored with the help of Unesco. Walk over the bridge and pick one of the many resturants terracing the side of the river, all with a view of the bridge, and take in the view while you lunch on fresh trout.

Sarajevo Restaurants: To Be or Not to Be-located in Sarajevo's old town, Cizmedziluk 5, tel. 23 32 65. Great trout and other fish. Excellent steak.

Inat Kuca Located on the river, opposite the under-restoration Old Town Hall, which was actually the library. Have the Bosnian Pot. The local red wine is great. I usually enjoy local beer too, but all the beer I tried in Sarajevo was skunked, probably from too-warm storage in light-colored bottles. Stick to Heineken if you like beer.

Best cheap food: in the old town, look for the signs for Tuba doner, "fast food Tuba," right off the main walking street. Order the shaved lamb in pita with onion, lettuce, tomato, salt, pepper, and sour cream sauce--fantastic! Only 3 kuna, about $1.50. The best thing I ate in Sarajevo.

Favorite Snack: Go into one of the several sweet shops and get 100 grams of the lesniak (hazelnuts, or filberts) rolled in honey and roasted sesame seeds. They are addictive. Fortunately, I recently read that hazel nuts have anti-oxidant properties, so I munched with impunity.

Best Museum: DO NOT MISS the war tunnel museum. A cab will take you there--any hotel can arrange this trip. The man we met running the museum that day helped dig the tunnel beginning in Jan. 1993 and kept it secure during the war--he was a military MP. The museum and site are primitive but anything more slick would detract from the raw intensity of this amazing place.

Other tips: Credit cards aren't widely used in this region. Having an ATM card means you can get cash when you need it. If you do make a credit card purchase, be sure the merchant enters your expiration date as month/year if your card is from the US, rather than the European format of year/month, which will result in your card being declined.

When paying a server, don't leave money on the table--give it directly to them, the tip too. Sadly, this region has beggars, and your money may be taken before your server gets to it. Enough said. Sarajevo's great--hope you enjoy it as much as I did, and don't forget to drink out of the fountain so you, too, will return.
Judith <email>
Belgrade Sat 06/11/2005

Simple German Backdoors
For those who don't often travel to Europe, striking out to find your own back door is a major risk. Why travel into some unknown town where there is potentially little of interest, when you really want to see the major sites? Of course it can be a drain on precious travel time, so here are 2 simple ways to find something different (ie. see real people living their daily lives), for not a lot of extra time or money:

1. If you've seen all the major sites in a big city, and have a couple of hours, or an entire day, consider an all day bus pass (10€ per person all zones, or 12€ total for a group of 2-5). Then hop on the U-bahn or S-bahn. Ride to the last stop, or where ever the scenery looks interesting, and hop off for a walk around the neighbourhood. Most S-bahns go well beyond the city limits, so you can find some beautiful old towns and communities with no tourists to be seen (except you).

2. If you have a short train ride from one major city to the next (eg. Stuttgart to Nurnberg is 2 hours, and costs 32€) take the milk train, which takes 3 hours, and only costs about 16€. Okay, the ride can seem long, but it stops in many cute towns, and the people getting on the train are fantastic! Families and friends from small towns who are excitedly going into the 'big city' for the day. It can make for a great slice of life. You might actually see someone wearing liederhosen because they want to, not just as a silly costume...just try not to stare!

Happy Travels!
Kate McKenzie <email>
Stuttgart, BW Germany Tue 06/07/2005

Leiden, The Netherlands
A friend and I just spent 14 days in Holland with a few days in Belgium. We rented an apartment in Leiden through Untours and we loved every minute. Leiden is a small city with the oldest Dutch university (Erasmus and John Quincy Adams attended). It has lively bars and restaurants, quiet canals, a lovely Wednesday and Saturday market and is a great jumping off place for other spots. The train station is centrally located and we never waited for more than a couple minutes for a train. We went to Amsterdam several times, the Hague, Delft, Haarlem and Belgium (Brugges) from this location. The information desk is superb and the ticket sellers will give you a computer printout with all your changes and platforms if you need to change trains. Plus it has lovely museums (Hortus Bontanicus has the descendent of the original tulip brought to Holland from Turkey).
Sally Polzin
Lawrence, MA USA Mon 06/06/2005

Lucca
I am so glad?? that Rick has decided to include Lucca in the Italy book. We "found" this town about 3 years ago and have loved it. The old town is small and the town is centrally located. You can visit Florence, Pisa, Sienna and go to the Cinque Terra within one hour. OK Sienna is further away but still not far. The restaurants are great and the shopping is good as well. Lucca is my favorite town in Italy. I have mixed emotions about Rick "finding" it though.
Bill Alt <email>
Charlotte, NC USA Wed 06/01/2005

Somerset England
When in England get OUT of London and the other typical tourist traps and head to The West Country of Somerset. Two areas are Exmoor National Park and the Quantock Hills. There you will find fantastic walking on well marked footpaths, lovely pub resteraunt, B&Bs, horse riding and NO TOURISTS!!!
Katie Scott <email>
Richland, WA USA Mon 05/30/2005

Roundstone, co. Galway
I found this town by accident while driving around Connemara. It is on the southwest coast of co. Galway. Beautiful views of the bay, unique, almost alien terrain around surrounding area, and a very good craftsguild for musicians. The town is small and charming. Way off the beaten path, but that is what makes it so interesting.
Bruce Robert <email>
Chicago, Il USA Tue 05/24/2005

Please only 1 out of 10 people read this!
Jeeze, I'm torn between wanting to share a town in Italy that I love, and wanting to keep it all to myself. I won't actually name the town in case I change my mind later, but as a clue: It starts with a "C" and ends with "ivitella in Val di Chiana".

This Tuscan hill town about 20km from Arezzo is known by some, but your average tourist has never heard of it. My uncle lives there, and I've visited for many many years and have seen maybe 10 Americans and a few other Europeans.

If you're looking for an untouristed hilltown you might want to take a look at some photos I have posted at http://www.picturetrail.com/bepineurope

If you don't adhere to RS's travel philosophy please don't go there. Thanks.
Bob <email>
North Little Rock, AR USA Tue 05/17/2005

Sarajevo & Montenegro
Sarajevo, Bosnia as well as the Montenegrian coast (specifically the Bay of Kotor) are wonderful backdoors that are relativly undiscovered to the American tourist. I spent 4 days in Sarajevo this past August and enjoyed amazing Cevapi in the ancient Turkish Basarcija neighborhood, saw the infamous Sarajevo airport tunnel, and all in all enjoyed the amazing city scenery!

Montenegro's Boka Kotorska offers STUNNING fjords and beaches that in my opinion are even more beautiful than those in neighboring Croatia and at less prices, and with less tourists. Herceg-Novi and Kotor are great places to station yourself to explore this region.

If you want to email me, I'd be glad to share more of my experiences & I have lots of pics on my website http://www.freewebtown.com/uherope
Alex Uher - Uherope <email>
Chicago, IL USA Fri 05/13/2005

Grottaminarda
We spent 2 wks in April in Italy. 5 days were in Grottaminarda, in the provence of Avellino. Although we met and stayed with relatives, the town is beautiful and unknown by tourists. It is a hill town combining very old buildings, newer ones, churches, a castle, flea market every Monday morning, great food and wonderful people! They even have their own dialect! A straight shot from Naples on A16, it is nestled in the hills among many little communes. If you continue on A16 you will end on the Adriatic Sea. If you are traveling to Naples area, central Italy is a must to visit!!!!!
Nancy Rossetti-Holdren <email>
Tampa, FL USA Thu 05/12/2005

South central Italy

Nancy Hodren <email>
Tampa, FL USA Thu 05/12/2005

Munich BMW Tour
Germany & Austria 2005 has the wrong phone number for the BMW factory tour. For groups up to five people its (49) (0)89-382-23306. For larger groups its (49) (0)89-382-23639. Email productionmile@bmw.de. Internet www.bmw-plant-munich.com
Roger Rhoads <email>
Mentor, OH USA Mon 05/09/2005

Kyiv, Ukraine
Kyiv, Ukraine - An absolutely great travel destination. Beautiful city on the banks of the Dnieper River, friendly people, great music events (concerts, opera, whatever), great wine, and very inexpensive. Another out-of-the-way Ukrainian destination is Odessa, on the Black Sea. The requirement for a visa is a pain, but I think that's being relaxed later this year!
Carolyn <email>
Seattle, USA Sat 05/07/2005

Dunbar, Scotland
On a vacation to the UK a few years ago, we stayed a few nights in Dunbar, Scotland. Dunbar is a charming little town on the coast, with easy access to Edinburgh (Dunbar is about 25 miles to the east). Dunbar has an old castle ruin and harbor, and is the birthplace of John Muir (conservationist who helped create Yosemite Park & founded Sierra Club). This website describes a walking tour of "John Muir's Dunbar": http://www.djma.org.uk//jmd/index.html And here's the Dunbar town website: http://www.dunbar.org.uk/index.php
Roger <email>
Madison, CT USA Sun 05/01/2005

Try Romania!!
Travel Romania!! -Romania is a great place to travel. Sure, much of the country is rougher than sandpaper, and Bucharest sucks, but there is so much beauty here as well!! The best place is the city of Brasov. It is wonderful mountain city that combines old and new. The REAL Dracula's castle (Castle Bran) is just outside the Brasov and an easy commute. Romania is scheduled to enter the EU in Jan. 2007. Meanwhile the prices are great!! Try it!
Alan <email>
NC USA Mon 04/25/2005

Edinburgh - Don't miss the Tartan Weaving Mill and Exhibition at the top of the Royal Mile, right next to the castle. It's part mill, part museum, and part retail outlet. It has an amazing selection of sweaters and scarves, and you can purchase dozens of different tartans by the yard.
Carol <email>
Seattle, USA Sat 04/23/2005

Highly recommend Edinburgh's Botanical Gardens. You can spend at least half a day here. My favorite attractions were the greenhouses (admission fee), Chinese garden, and rock garden. In March it wasn't crowded, and plenty of trees and shrubs were in bloom.
Carol <email>
Seattle, USA Sat 04/23/2005

Thoroughly enjoyed the Apsley House in London's West End. It wasn't crowded (went in March), and with our 2-for-1 coupon, it was a good deal. Allow an hour to tour. See http://www.london2for1.com/2for1/
Carol <email>
Seattle, USA Sat 04/23/2005

Gasthaus zum Salmen near Schaffhausen
Schaffhausen, Switzerland, has the Rhine Falls and other interesting sights to see, and isn't really a 'back door'. But reasonably-priced accommodations are hard to find. We stayed at Gasthaus zum Salmen, formerly an old customs house, at a charming isolated location right on the Rhine River just a short drive outside the town of Schaffhausen. This web link has some info and photos: http://www.tourismus-schweiz.ch/register/website.asp?basic_guid_pk={08ED9E86-6BAA-43A7-8169-41FF6362E6CC}
Roger <email>
Madison, CT USA Fri 04/15/2005

Parc de Merlet, in Les Houches ( a few miles from Chamonix) is incredible! This is an open wildlife park where you can be within a few feet of free-roaming wildlife of the Alps, such as Ibexes( le bouquetin), mountain goats, deer, marmots, etc. I took tons of photos here, of all the animals, and the glacier in the background. Prices last summer were 4.50Euros for adults, 3.00 for kids under 12. It is only open from May 1st to the end of September. Make sure to drive past the first parking lot you see, and try to get closer, the signs are deceiving. There is still a bit of a walk from the closest parking lot.
Karen
CA USA Sun 04/10/2005

New Back Doors
Twenty-two years ago my husband and I were stationed with the military at Zaragoza, Spain. We met, married and have since moved to other places. For nostalgia's sake, we took a short trip back to Zaragoza (we're currently living in Germany) and fell in love with the city all over again. We were very impressed with it's growth, points of interest and above all the continued warmth of the Spanish people. Zaragoza has some recently discovered Roman ruins, a variety of restaurants and bars, and a beautiful Basilica that is just as breathtaking as it was 20 years ago! On our way back to Germany, we stopped in a town on the Costa Brava, intending to revisit Lloret de Mar, and found Tossa de Mar instead. Again, another jewel and testament to the Spanish people!
Beth <email>
Stuttgart Germany, USA Wed 03/30/2005

Generac, France
A little town just outside of Nimes. In July they have a festival of the running WITH the bulls. I discovered this area the year before Rick came out with his Provence book. Take a look of my photos from my trip at:http://www.picturetrail.com/bircher Scroll down to the album: Chasing of the Bulls 2003
Sam Antonio
San Diego, CA USA Tue 03/15/2005

new back doors
any time you can stay with a European family in their home,it is a new back door. We have friends in northern Germany, the parents of an exchange student we hosted in the 90's. For 4 days in December they rolled out the red carpet for us and we had a precious visit. As an American I relished the slower pace of their meal times and noticed every little interesting difference in their home, from the fact that their indoor lighting was much more subtle, to the simplicity of their holiday decorations and the effort they made to make our stay special. We didn't need to do any high powered sightseeing, we just enjoyed taking the dog for a walk, sharing a meal, visiting a Christmas market at a farm, it was all lovely. Get your self invited into a European family home and then bring something fun from America, I brought some basic Mexican food ingredients and then we went to the supermarket and cooked a big taco dinner with chips and salsa, it was a hit!!
Chere Weiss <email>
Kelso, WA USA Thu 03/10/2005

"Sanctuaria"- Riomaggiorre, Cinque Terra
Although Riomaggiorre isn't undiscovered, where we stayed doesn't seem to be in any of the guidebooks and it was a real find. Found through the Riomaggiore Tourist office, it's located just before the town of Riomaggiore, way up through vineyards to an old church/convent where for 35EU/person we rented a 2 story cabin with multiple terraces, fig and plum trees, full kitchen and slept 4. There is a dining room, church and several cabins that cling to the cliffs. The views of Riomaggiore were incredible. The staff were equally incredible. A 20 min. backwoods hike takes you into the town of Riomaggiore (or you can take the bus from the highway, but I recommend the walk). Legend tells that it was the trail that the villagers would use to escape marauding North African pirates when they attacked Riomaggiore. The villagers would take 'sanctuary' in the church until the invaders left - thus the name "Sanctuaria". A bus will drop you off on the highway (or you can park at the highway pull-out)and either walk up (about 10-15 min. straight up on switchbacks!) or you can ride the grape-picker which is sort of like an ancient single-track ricketty roller coaster. Definitely give it a ride at least once - it's quite an experience. There are also numerous mountain bike paths that will lead you from town to town all along the ridges. Didn't get a chance to do any riding, but we definitely plan on returning. The dining room serves incredible mussels. Most people want to stay right in town, but this place is a real gem.
Nancy Biamonte <email>
St. Albert, AB CA Thu 03/10/2005

Barcelona: Great Concert in Gothic Qtr.
Hi, Everyone:
Ralph Paxton <email>
Atlanta, GA USA Sat 03/05/2005

Ebenau, Austria
We spent a long weekend in Ebenau and it was a real treat! We booked a 3* hotel through www.tiscover.at because it was a good deal. We had no idea it would be such a gem! Hotel Obermayr is a family run hotel and Max, is a true Jack-of-all-trades. He cooks the most amazing weiner schnitzel and steudel! Breakfast was right on time and fresh every morning. The first night we arrived we headed into the town's local pub -they said they'd never seen Americans stay in this area. But there was an American flag hanging on the wall :)

The pubs/clubs in Austria stay open all night...like until 5-6am!

Salzburg is a 15-minute scenic drive, we rented a car to be able to explore. We took Rick's Salzburg tour - excellent! The Mullnerbrau - monk-run brewery/bier hall was awesome!

We skiied one day at Winterfreuden, Gaissau-Hintersee for 40 euros (lift pass and full ski rental), about 10 miles from the hotel. The slopes were pristine - offering 3 levels of skiing and great huts!We took the cable car in St. Gilgen to get a panoramic view of the area with it's mountains and three lakes - unbelievable! The views were amazing. Snow covered mountains in every direction. Ice covered cliffs and lakes - and to think it's all green and lush in the summer!

Max offers canyoning excursions in the summer which look challenging and fun. The hotel has an outdoor beer garden that sits atop the river that goes behind the hotel -would be a great place to hang out in the warmer months.

Even though we were the first Americans they'd seen in this area speaking English wasn't a problem. We absolutely couldn't believe this great little area! We'll definitely try to go back this summer and stay longer!
C Brannon <email>
USAF stationed in England, TX USA Wed 02/23/2005

Paris Opera House
I have a random question that doesn't really fit into any Graffitti topics, I just thought I'd post it somewhere. Does anyone know if there are public tours of the Opera de Paris (Garnier)? I'm going in a few weeks and have only seen the exterior so far and definitely cannot afford a ticket to a performance (college student). Any suggestions or tours anyone knows about?
Lindsay S <email>
Atlanta, GA USA Wed 02/09/2005

European blisters
Please remember to take tennis shoes and a pair of sandles on your European trips,the stone walks are beautiful but hard on your feet,I ruined my trip to Ireland and England first time around with blisters.
Geraldine Kight <email>
Baltimore, Md USA Sun 02/06/2005

Dunmore,Ireland
Dunmore,outside of Waterford.It's a beautiful village on the coast,cottages on the hill,beautiful view and great food.Loved it!
Geraldine Kight <email>
Baltimore, Md USA Sun 02/06/2005

Free Eiffel Tower tickets stopped
I just contacted the Eiffel Tower for the official word and, unfortunately, they have discontinued the Eiffel Tower Game to win free tickets. Furthermore, it is not possible to purchase tickets ahead of time so, you MUST stand in the L-O-N-GGGGGG line! (Expect minimum 1/2 hour to AT LEAST one full hour or more!) They suggest coming early when it first opens for the shortest lines. On the up-side, I believe I heard it first from Rick's sight that the tower has lowered the admission cost.
Gail <email>
Almere, Holland Mon 01/31/2005

Mauritshuis Museum - The Hague
Not many tourists get to The Hague, the political capital of The Netherlands. Not that I can't blame them -- like many government towns, it's a pretty quiet, some may say even boring place. But if you find yourself nearby, you have to visit the Mauritshius Museum, hard by the Dutch parliament buildings. The house was built in the mid-17th century by Johan Maurits, Governor General of Dutch possessions in Brazil, a little-known aspect of Dutch colonial history. It pays tribute to him and his efforts, with a fine selection of artifacts from aboriginal tribes of the time. But its real treasures are an unmatched collection of Dutch masters of the Renaissance, including Rembrandt, Hals, Steen, Hobbema, Rubens, and Vermeer. If you want a concentrated look at Dutch masterpieces from the Golden Era, this is where to find it, in a compact space that won't overwhelm you. The prize of the entire visit, "Girl with the Pearl Earring" by Vermeer. She will dazzle you!Their website is at http://www.mauritshuis.nl/english/index.html
Norm <email>
Ottawa, ON Canada Sun 01/30/2005

Utrecht -- undiscovered gem
One of the most underrated cities in Europe has to be Utrecht, in Holland. Less than 45 minutes by train south of Amsterdam, it has classic Dutch architecture and canals that, IMO, are better than Amsterdam's! Utrecht's canals have two levels -- the lower level, where barges loaded and off-loaded into underground warehouses, are now mostly restaurants. You can ejoy a great meal under leafy trees alongside the canal, down below the noisy traffic above. The city has dozens of churches, and was an ecclesiastical powerhouse in medieval times. Over them all is the Dom tower, more than 600 years old, nad rising 112 metres above the Cathedral. It was closed for renovations in 2004 and probably will be this year again, so check. But for the brave, the 465 steps to the top provide magnificent views. There are also seven museums in the area, and dozens of shops, boutiques, galleries, and much more.At the entrance to the old town, attached to the train station, is the largest indoor shopping mall in the Netherlands....lots of locals streaming through here every day. And right outside the mall, as you head into the old town, is a large outdoor market in Vredenburg square. It operates Wednessdays and Saturdays....and Fridays as well, someone mentioned to me. Saturdays are the best days, because there are also flower markets up as well.....but it's also a lot more crowded, as the locals are out to do their shopping too.No idea what the accomodations are like, since we stayed with friends near Katwijk. But with Utrecht only about 45 minutes away from anywhere in the Netherlands, it makes a great day trip, away from the hustle and bustle (and tourists) in the bigger cities!
Norm <email>
Ottawa, ON Canada Sun 01/30/2005

Uppsala, Sweden & Kuopio, Finland
Uppsala is an easy day trip from Stockholm (just an hour on the bus, less on the train) and a beautiful college town. Don't miss the Cathedral, Vasa Castle (with its views of the town). Easygoing, friendly, and highly recommended.

Kuopio, Finland, is off the beaten track but was the only winter wonderland we visited during three weeks in Scandinavia/northern Europe in January. (Global warming, anyone?) Visit the Market Hall, the Puijo Tower, and just relax. There's also a great ski jump for athletic types. Finns are shy about their English, so knowing a few phrases of Finnish will be extremely helpful (hello, please, thank you, etc.)
Bobbi Dykema Katsanis <email>
Seattle, WA USA Fri 01/21/2005

Kyiv is wonderful
We second the Kyiv suggestion.

We went there to adopt children and fell in love with Ukraine. Kyiv is a wonderful European city with great (and cheap) shopping, dining and entertainment. We stayed in an apartment for less than $50/night and never ate a meal that cost more than $5 for two.

The Churches, galleries and archetecture are wonderful. Public transportation is good, safe and cheap. The countryside is an even better value. We were in a small town hotel for less than $50/week.

Kyiv is the birthplace of Russian Culture. We can't wait to go back and explore again!Jim and Mary Stolz
James and Mary Stolz <email>
Las Vegas, NV USA Mon 01/03/2005