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Magic Moments: 2003

Just a few magic moments in a trip can make it a success in your mind for the rest of your life. The moon rising over the Jungfrau...being alone at your own private Stonehenge...feeling Celtic pride well up in your non-Celtic soul after hours of traditional music in an Irish pub...meeting your "Old World" relatives for the first time. Do you have a favorite magic moment from your European experience?


One special moment occured when my wife and I were totally lost in some forgotten town in Germany trying to get to Rothenburg. We were late, very tired and needed to call our B&B to hold our room so they wouldn't rebook it. I walked up to a phone booth with a phone card and waited while a German gentleman finished his call. He turned to me and spoke in German, but then switched to perfect English when I told him I was American. He pointed to my phone card and told me that the phone only took coins, of which I had none. He then asked me of my dilemma--being lost, trying to make the call, trying to get back on track to our destination. We were frazzled, it was the low point of a long day on the road!

He took coins out of his own pocket put them in the phone, called our B&B for us (in German) to let them know we would be late. He then pointed out his car and said to follow him. He drove through the confusing streets of the town with us behind for quite a while and then onto the highway to Rothenburg. He drifted back toward us, pointed ahead, and honked and waved goodbye. At a tough point on our journey, along came this wonderful German "angel" to give us a magical memory that we will never forget!
Richard
Seattle, WA   USA  Wed 12/31/2003


First Sighting of the Rock of Cashel
W when my wife and I were last in Ireland, 2001, we were driving from Limerick to Cobh when we rounded a bend and got our first sighting of the Rock of Cashel. Naturally we stopped and just gawked in disbelief. We went into town and decided on the spot to spend the night. This was the best stop on our trip and believe it was the best because it was totally unplanned. We did have some problems canceling our B&B on the south coast but it was worth every minute of 24 hours we spent in Cashel. Three years later we still talk about that day
John Munro
Lakewood, CO   USA  Tue 12/16/2003


Feast of the Virgin - Granada Spain
After my boyfriend and I finished touring the Catedral and Capilla Real we walked outside and discovered that people were lining up along the streets carrying candles. Unbeknownst to us, it was the Feast of the Virgin that they were celebrating with a procession in the streets. Pretty soon we were swarmed as the parade went by and I remembered that our hotel room looked down upon the street. So we made our way through the crowd and went up to our room, threw open our windows and had a perfect view of the parade and the incense floating upward. We even ordered room service as we watched the crowds below. The pageantry of the parade was incredible and such a nice unexpected surprise for us. It was then that I felt as if we got a taste of the real Granada.
Lisa Proctor
Lake Villa, IL   USA  Tue 12/16/2003


Greenwich, near London
Anyone spending time in London should definitely visit Greenwich. I took the 188 bus out there and spent a wonderful day...all the attractions are FREE and the ?2 bus ticket for the day makes it a very nice day out. Lovely village and very friendly helpful people..I am going back again as one day is not enough time to see it all. You can also get the boat up river but I prefer the top of the bus.
Sandra
Allamuchy, NJ   USA  Mon 12/15/2003


Magic Moment in Venice
Magic Moment: It was in late August of last year, when my husband and I walked out of the Venice Train Station and down the steps overlooking the Grand Canal...there was nothing to prepare us for that breathtaking Island City! We had the most romantic and relaxing 4 days of our 3-week Europe trip. It was the perfect temperature, the perfect amount of people, excellent accomodations, and no cars to worry about being run over by! And all the people we met were so friendly! We will definitely return there someday, but are a bit afraid it won't live up to the first time!
Jennifer P.
Menlo Park, CA   USA  Wed 12/10/2003


Magic Moments
Our Guardian Angel of Nice. We were on a 6 1/2 week trip through France and Italy. Almost invariably, throughout our travels, we met with politeness, helpfulness and friendliness.

One incident, in particular, ranked as one of those ?random acts of kindness? which we will never forget. My friend, Bonnie, and I were almost three weeks into our travels in France. Now, it was late in the afternoon of June 18, 2003. We?d rented a car and were driving along the French Riviera from Cassis (near Marseilles) to Nice where we?d arranged to drop off our rental car at a location near the Nice train station. Neither the rental car company, the tourist office, nor our Nice hotel told us of the complexities of exiting off the autoroute. We were merely told to watch for the exit that said ?la gare" ? the train station. Ignorant and unconcerned, we approached Nice: I was driving, my friend navigating. As we passed exit after exit into Nice, we saw none that indicated the train station. Our Michelin road map wasn?t detailed enough either to provide the information we needed.

Finally, desperate to get off the autoroute, especially when I saw a sign by the side of the roadway that said ?Grenoble? and realized we were on our way north, I took the next off-ramp that still had the word ?Nice? on it. Up ahead we saw a toll booth. As I handed over the money, I anxiously asked the toll booth operator how we might get to the Nice train station. I hoped desperately that she spoke some English. She did. She advised us to take the ?Nice Centre? exit which we?d find ?up ahead?. We proceeded on. Just when we wondered if perhaps we might have misunderstood, there was the sign announcing the exit to the centre of the city. We knew from our map that the autoroute parallels the Baie des Anges (the Bay of Angels where Nice sits so majestically on the shores of the Mediterranean). And we knew about rush hour. Rick Steves, in his France guidebook, warns travelers that traffic grinds to a halt then. I glanced at my watch - 5:00pm and we were now in five lanes of traffic, moving... slowly... I further compounded our difficulty by choosing the extreme left driving lane and saw, with dismay, that we passed one, then another, service station on our far right, refuges where we might have asked directions. But now we were committed... We inched along, looking hopefully for signs to direct us, finding nothing helpful.

Finally, after a few more blocks, our energy flagging, my ?navigator? suddenly said, ?Drive forward. I want to ask that man in the car up ahead where to find the train station.? When the car was next to us, she rolled down her window and shouted across to the driver. He was likely a Nicoise, possibly driving home from work, a woman in the seat beside him. His window was down and he heard her cries of ?Ou est la gare? (Where is the train station?). He appeared mystified (perhaps by her accent?). He questioned - ?la gare?? She tried to imitate his accent ? La garrre?? - rolling the ?r? like the French do. For several crazy seconds, while we crawled along, she repeatedly shouted the word, trying to get him to understand. Finally, in desperation she shouted, ?les trains?? ?Oh, les trains?, he replied in sudden understanding. He paused briefly, perhaps lost in thought. Then he struck his hand to his forehead and said with an anguished cry: ?C?est dur!? (It?s hard (to explain). As we absorbed this unpleasant news, we heard the driver quickly add - ?Je vous amenerai? (I will take you) ?Suivez-moi!? (Follow me).

We were too anxious and confused to be astonished. Our guide indicated, with his arm, that he wanted to pull in ahead of us. With difficulty, I opened up a space for him. We continued to inch along for awhile, then gained more speed. I stayed on his bumper, afraid to lose him. Occasionally, he used his arm to indicate to other drivers that he wanted to move in front of them, which he did, me following like a shadow. He led us on what was at least a 15-minute tortuous journey, down crowded streets, across intersections, winding our way up a ramp and then through a tunnel. Finally, up ahead, I saw our first sign of ?La Gare? - the train station. I expected we were nearing our destination but still couldn?t see where it might be. Our guide turned a corner and suddenly, I was stopped by a wall of pedestrians. I strained to see where our guide had gone but it looked like we had lost him. When I finally turned the corner, there just up ahead, we saw him, four-way flashers on, double parked, blocking traffic, cars weaving around him, waiting for us. With a sigh of relief, I resumed our hare-and-hound journey.

Finally, on the right, we saw the train station coming up. Then we were there, just a simple turn into the lot. And up ahead, our guide, pointing to his right, confirmed our destination. He started to pull away and all I could do in humble gratitude was to honk my horn and wave wildly in thanks. He disappeared in the heavy afternoon traffic. Noting the sign of the rental car company in a nearby window, I drove around till we found a parking spot (no small feat in itself) determined not to get out on the street again and potentially lost. As we reflected on the actions of our rescuer, we wondered what compelled him to come to the aid of two lost travelers. His actions will remain one of those outstanding acts of generosity and kindness that blessed us in our travels. I am wondering when I might be called upon for such service. When I am, I hope to act with similar swiftness and good will as did our ?Guardian Angel of Nice?.
Elaine Weidner
Victoria, BC   CANADA  Fri 12/05/2003


Diani beach, Kenya
Wedding on Diaini Beach, Kenya, followed a day later by a visit to the local bush bar. Four of us Brits and about 15 of the hotel staff....and somehow we drank the bar dry! Not bad when you consider that we only spent 3000 Kenyan Shillings...which was about twenty six pounds ($45)! And what a place to get married...especially as it was my 50th birthday. Will definitely return.
Dickie Thompson
Norwich, England  Thu 12/04/2003


Magic Moments
During our Rick Steves Best of London tour, we got to see Queen Elizabeth in her horse drawn coach as she traveled the parade route for the opening of the Parliament. For all of us, it was a truly magnificent, once in a lifetime experience.
Angela Moore
Bloomington, IL   USA  Mon 12/01/2003


Magic Moments
Recently I found myself in Vaduz, Litchenstein with an afternoon and evening to stay. I found a nice outdoor cafe, 3 tables, with an incredible view of the Swiss Alps. A large group of people, just out of work and thirsty, filled up 2 of the tables and asked if, they could share mine. Only one of them spoke english so he sat next to me and translated. They bought several food items insisting I try them all. Things were going along fine until a man joined us. I was introduced as Konrad from America. America, he said, our beer is too strong for you. Challenge made and accepted! After many hours, and glasses of beer, he recinded his comment!! I had a great time with these people that would not have happened if, I had not allowed them to share my table. They also picked up the tab!
Konrad
Sears, MI   USA  Sun 11/30/2003


Magic Moments
My sister and I took a trip to Spain this past July. Our brother lives outside of Madrid in a cute little village, Torres de Henerez. One of the stops during our wanderings was Granada, mainly to tour the Alhambra. The evening of our arrival, my brother, sister and I set off walking with no apparent destination to my thinking. They kept telling me they had a surprise in store. At about 8:30pm we arrived at our destination...an outdoor eating plaza off of a tiny, quaint street. There was a magnificent structure looming above this plaza that I couldn't stop looking at. The light of dusk dwindled and we continued our leisurely meal. A glorious full moon began it's rise over "the structure". I kept asking what that building was and my sibs claimed ignorance (wink, wink, nudge, nudge). After it was fully dark at about 10:00pm the edifice was flooded in rich, perfectly placed floodlights. They enhanced the architecture perfectly! In case you haven't already guessed, the structure was the Alhambra itself in all it's Moorish glory!!! I will never forget the quietly soaring beauty of that night with the moon rising over the Alhambra. A surprise that will be an everlasting moment of magic for the rest of my days!
Pam
Littleton, Co   USA  Mon 11/17/2003


Vernazza Fireworks
In early August this year, after a wonderful weekend wedding in Carimate, Italy for a friend of mine, my boyfriend and I headed to Vernazza and stayed in Giuliano's rooms high above the town. Our room neighbors turned out to be from my home town of Olympia, WA and informed us that there was to be a fireworks show that night to celebrate the town's saint. Neither we nor our neighbors ever figured out any more details about the celebration than that because it appeared the locals tried to keep it somewhat hush hush from the crush of August tourists. But late that evening we sat on the patio and watched a dazzling beautiful display of tremendous fireworks light up the town and reflect off the water. The echo of the explosions through the canyon were so loud I grabbed my earplugs half way through the show. I have never seen such a wonderful display and to see it in the tiny magical town of Vernazza was incredible. After the show I heard a broken English conversation echo up from the street below. An Italian explained that the celebration only happens every 5 or 25 years (I swear I heard 25 years, but I can't believe we were THAT lucky to show up on the one night in 25 years that it happens). With my handy new digital camera I was able to take some amazing photos of Vernazza lit up under a sky of fireworks. We had high expectations of Vernazza from Rick's books, but it truly surpassed anything we could have imagined!
Mona
Seattle, WA   USA  Sun 11/16/2003


Spanish Salsa
Learning the salsa at a port olympia club in Barcelona. A cute Spaniard basically took me under his wing and made it his goal to teach me the salsa to this wonderful Spanish music. He fully took the lead and before I knew it, we had an audience around us and I was being spun around like a true pro! It was a blast...I fell in love with Spain that night.
Victoria
East Greenwich, RI   USA  Thu 11/13/2003


Rome Moments
Rome in November was the best time with my husband. We were on foot between buses. We found every fountain in the city. As it was November, it was not busy. I was spellbound when we came out of the metro and saw the Colosseum for the first time. We had the best time! We are stationed in Germany and travel extensively. We are going to Budapest for Thanksgiving next.
Bec
Ramstein, Germany  Mon 11/10/2003


Cathedral in Milan
Don't miss the roof of the Cathedral (Duomo) in Milan. Go to the elevator and purchase your pass which includes the Cathedral museum as Rick suggests. Walking around on the white marble roof and seeing the intricately carved statues that you can't see from the ground was a fantastic experience !
Kathy Bruner
Lawrence, Ks   USA  Sat 11/08/2003


Small world !
I had booked an inexpensive hotel in Florence for it's location and internet access for guests. My husband had not been aware how often I spoke with our daughters in Boulder, Col. and L.A., or how important it was to us while on our trip. We were checking out early one morning and he took off to climb to the top of the Duomo for one last photo of Florence. I checked us out of the hotel and the computer was still occupied by the young woman who was on when I entered the lobby. I politely asked if I could log on just long enough to see if my daughters had written. I promised not to write. She said she was California. She noted my "Kansas" windbreaker and I stated yes, I was from Kansas. I replied that my daughter Katie lived in LA. She said she lived in West Hollywood, I replied that Katie did as well and worked for "Theater LA". Her eyes got big and she replied that she had just finished emailing my daughter in California ! She was traveling with her mother, and sits on the board for Theatre LA ! What are the chances of that !
Kathy Bruner
Lawrence, Ks   USA  Sat 11/08/2003


Magic Moments
Magic Moments. Driving along the south of France between Provence and Antibes. Having a chat with Franco Sala at his restaurant in Civita. Walking through the museum of San Marco with a guided tour. Seeing Gaudi in Barcelona. Seeing the Picasso Museum in Antinbes. The boat ride from Santa Margarita and Portofino. Everytime I wake up and I know I am in Florence, and not going home yet.
Alan Greenhalgh
Manalapan, NJ   USA  Fri 11/07/2003


Connecting in rural France
This past summer I spent a few days traveling alone in Burgundy, France. On my way to see a town called Vezelay, I took a detour on impluse to a tiny village called Quarre les Tombs (an ancient quarry village with mysterious above ground tombs surrounding the local church). While examining theancient tombs, an 80-plus year old local man greeted me and asked if I was a visitor from England. I speak passable French and explained that I am a American, at which point, he said I must hear his story. With great emotion and day by detailed personal recollection, he then spoke about D-Day, the liberation of France by the Allies, and in particular the eventual liberation of this very village. He showed me where the paratroopers landed outside his town, and how a monument there marks the 2000 members of the French Resistance who then rose up and fought alongside the Allies. WIth tears glistening in his eyes, he then said our nations have a history together that is long and tres important. Then taking my hand with both of his, he said, 'Nous sommes bon amis," we are good friends. I echoed in reply, "D'accord. Nous some bon amis." I was moved to tears by his kindness, and the depth of his personal experience. I felt like I touched history that day in a way that I never before experienced. The cathedral in Vezelay was beautiful but the minutes spent with this dear old man in Quarre les Tombs is a treasure that I will carry with me forever.
Paul Regan
Chadds Ford, PA   USA  Thu 11/06/2003


Special Moment in Vernazza
My wife and honeymooned in Italy for two weeks. While staying in Vernazza, I decided to walk up to the hiking trail in order to get a great view and photo op of Vernazza. It was pouring rain and the waves were crashing over the breakwater in the "port.? As I climbed the stairs to get to the Cinque Terre trail, I came across and elderly man who was trying to carry a chest of drawers down the steep staircase. I stopped and offered assistance. I helped him carry the drawers to his house, which is right above the boats on the town square. He and his wife did not speak a word of English; I did not speak any Italian. However, they were very forceful about inviting me into their home thanking me for my assistance and. I sat down at the table and they served my some lemon liquor and what tasted like a fruitcake. I shared photos from our trip and they showed me their home and some photo's. They gave me their name, and address, and invited my wife and me to stay with them any time we return to Vernazza. This was a very special moment. It was their way to return my act of kindness. I was expecting to get a beautiful photo of the town; instead, I got a beautiful memory of friendship through an act of kindness.
Joe
San Jose, ca   USA  Wed 11/05/2003


Lights on the Eiffel Tower
Take an evening stroll near the Eiffel Tower about 8 p.m. weekdays or 11 p.m. on weekends. You will see one of the most exciting spectacles in Europe -- The Tower lit up like a gigantic sparkler. The lights flash and flicker for about 15 fabulous minutes. In the summer, Parisians bring their picnic dinners to the park to view the show, and at 11 p.m. even the noisy teenagers who congregate in the park quiet down to watch. It's a truly magic moment.
Sally B.
Wynnewood, PA   USA  Sat 11/01/2003


Re: Vicenza
This is for D. in Denver regarding his post on Vicenza. It warmed my heart to read of your experience here. It's great to see that another American appreciates the beauty of this city and the surrounding area as much as I do. If you're ever in Vicenza again, feel free to look me up and my wife and I will show you more of the area!
Rik
Vicenza, Italy  Tue 10/28/2003


Dinner in Berchtesgaden
This last May, my lovely niece visited me in Germany, where I live. It was her first time in Europe. We went to Berchtesgaden, Germany and stayed in my favorite B & B. One evening we looked for a place for dinner and sat on a log table on the outside of a restaurant under a huge canopy. We had wonderful German Spargel, a deep, rich, dry red wine. While sitting there, it began to rain softly. We sat snug under the awning, watching the rain and visiting. It was a magical, relaxed evening. My niece said, "Ahhh, this is what Europe is about!" And I pleased that she had discovered the true European life-style. It isn't about rushing and touring...it's about sitting and enjoying.
Julia
DE  Sat 10/25/2003


Salisbury Cathedral
Towards the end of our day in Salisbury England, we wandered into the Salisbury Cathedral just in time to hear the choir start their rehersal. We were the only ones in the entire cathedral lit only by candlelight. It was truly one of the most spectacular moments of my life.
Kristyn McGuigan
CT   USA  Tue 10/14/2003


Best secret jewel of Paris
Do not miss the Musee Jacquemart Andre in Paris near the Arc di Triomphe on Haussman Blvd (Metro -Miromesnil). Plan to include tea or lunch in the magnificient cafe. It's a tucked away mansion. Tour this small lovely museum residence of privately owned collections including Rembrandts, Boticellis, and Bellinis, and enjoy the splendid decor. Dine under the Italian masterpiece ceiling while admiring the tapestries. We were charmed and it was a highlight of our stay in Paris. Free audioguide. Exquisite gift shop. This experience allows a glimpse into the life of Parisian aristocracy and welcomes you to participate. The owners of the collection were generous and the presentation as well as the collection was left in trust solely for our viewing and pleasure.
Marie
Verona NJ, USA  Mon 10/13/2003


Love at first sight at Sacre Coeur
I finally made it to Paris for my first time in May 2001. I was meeting a good friend of mine the next day so I had a whole Sunday to discover the city that I had yearned to visit my entire life. I checked into my hostel about noon but couldn't get to my room until 3 pm. I was sitting in the lobby, having a smoke and a diet Coke when a very handsome and charming man asked if he could join me. I knew he was speaking English but his accent was so strong I had to ask where he was from. He told me that he was from Essex, England. We ended up walking up to the Sacre Coeur and took pictures of each other. As we walked up to the top, he asked if he could hold my bag in his sexy English accent. I think he had me right then.

We cruised around Montmartre all day, having a few beers and just taking in the beautiful neighborhood. We had our first kiss at the base of the Sacre Coeur on a little park bench overlooking the entire city with the Eiffel Tower sparkling in the distance. He left the next day and we kept in touch. He ended up flying over to the U.S. 2 weeks later. I flew over to visit him in England for 2 weeks. He moved here to the U.S. in August 2001. We got married in Nov 2001 and now have an adorable baby boy who just turned one. I never thought a fairytale romance could ever really happen, especially to me. There were many factors that led us to meet each other that wonderful Sunday and I am now a huge believer in fate.
Ailee Farey
Tucson, AZ   USA  Thu 10/09/2003


Montmartre Magic
My first trip to Paris was sublime. I treasure so many memories, however one that really stands out is standing in Place du Tertre taking in all the artists displaying their wares. People were everywhere buying momentos,laughing,snapping photos, and generally taking it all in. It started to rain so I took off across the square and headed for Maison Catherine's doorway. I got through the door just as the rain really started to pour. My family followed and we ended up having a wonderful warm meal inside while it rained cats & dogs outside. I'll always remember that Sunday afternoon in Montmartre. We bought one of their menus to commemorate our visit. It hangs on my kitchen wall.
C Keathley
Clayton, MO   USA  Mon 10/06/2003


magic moments
Three years ago, on our last day in Italy, the weather cleared enough for us to go walking late in the afternoon. We climbed up as far as we could above San Remo, and viewed the town from the churchyard. Descending, we took a different route(never go back the way we came). It was growing dark, but we found the hillside neighborhood's back alleys. Windows and doors were open, families prepared dinner, some sitting on the stone steps outside their doorway. Peaceful, real, wonderful serendipity.
GTrowbridge
Milford, CT   USA  Wed 10/01/2003


Wandering near Vicenza
A few years ago I joined my parents in a business trip to Italy. I wanted to see Palladio's Villa Rotunda, near Vicenza, so my mother and I found a cab driver to take us from our Padova hotel to the villa. After the tour, we realized we had no way to get to Vicenza for that evening's dinner! We ended up walking (not knowing the way and without a map!)the few miles into town. Along our way, we found other, lesser known, villas also open to the public. One had murals by Tintorettio which particularly delighted me. Almost to town and a little hungry, we found a tiny market/diner by the freeway. The woman working the counter spoke no english, but was so delighted to have foreign visitors that she spent the next 30 mintues spoiling us with home made sandwiches and desrts...and insisted we not pay for any of it (of course we left money on the table)!!! Italy is such an amaing countries, and little experiences such as this have made me love it even more!
D.
Denver, CO   USA  Fri 09/26/2003


Yvonne... Nice job on the poem!!
Cherie
Buckley, WA   USA  Tue 09/23/2003


Rick Steves Rome tour inspires poem
After a one-week Rick Steves tour in Rome last October, with great guides and tour group and so enamored with this city, I wrote the following poem:

I see Rome bursting into starlight in a canopy of eternal splendors.

I see Rome cloak the star-swept night with its timeless pleasures.

Until the blue violet shadows of dawn awaken me on a distant shore

And my dream,once reality, slips into a passionate gaze, I ask, where will they meet again..the splendors, the passion and a far away horizon.
Yvonne Lewis
Houston, Tx   USA  Sun 09/21/2003


Magic in a laundromat
I find that time spent in the local laundromat can be a pleasant rest from the road, and sometimes more interesting than the same time spent in some stuffy museum. It can show you an interesting slice of life as you spent some time with locals or fellow travellers.

While in London, my nephew and I stopped at a local laundry in the Victoria district to do our washing. The laundry was run by a frumpy, but guardedly friendly, middle-aged Arabic woman who spoke with a strong blue-collar British accent. There was no one else in the place except her and me and my nephew. She helped us find washers and get them started, then we all settled into an uncomfortable silence in the small room. My nephew and I began reading and studying travel brochures to pass the time. The laundry woman was ironing shirts while staring at some tawdry day-time talk show blaring on the ?telly?.

The atmosphere was humid, hot, and heavy with the scent of laundry detergent from a dozen washers and dryers. The host of the talk show program was interviewing a mother and daughter who were experiencing conflict in their relationship because the daughter was working as a prostitute and the mother did not approve. At one point, the host asked the daughter to explain what working as a prostitute was like. The girl said, ?Well, I make a lot of money and have sex with several different men every day?. The laundry woman suddenly perked up, looked around and said boldly, ?Bloooody 'ell , I?ve got the wrong job?. Then all three of us roared with laughter. I?ve already forgotten the names of all the statues and paintings I saw in the British Museum, but I?ll always remember the lady in the laundromat.
Larry
Canada  Sun 09/14/2003


Fountains of Versailles
After reading about France in Rick Steves books, I knew I wanted to see Versailles. In the afternoon, we bought tickets to walk through the gardens. At 3:30 the fountains came on all through the gardens and beautiful music filled the air. We walked and listened and just stood in awe of the fountains - water everywhere. An afternoon I will not soon forget.
Doug Hart
Sammamish, WA   USA  Sat 09/13/2003


Magical stay near Lucerne, Switzerland
There is a restaurant and hotel located in Hergiswil called Hotel Du Lac, Seestrasse 76, just a short train trip from Lucerne, Switzerland. We enjoyed staying there on our honeymoon and thought we have to tell Rick about this place. The food is amazing. The dining room is beautiful. Truly many memorable moments. There is a view of the lake from most of the windows. It is magical.
Elizabeth Van Sickle
Edmonds, WA   USA  Sat 09/13/2003


Flushing Issues.....duh!
Armando - I know what you mean! My husband and I were completely confused about flushing our toilet in Belgium (duh, the tissue box was over the flushing button)! Hey, we're looking for a doggone handle, okay? The Europeans would laugh their buns off if they knew how much we stressed over the simplest stuff! ps. we finally figured it out and laughed ourselves silly!
renee
CO   USA  Wed 09/10/2003


Toilet
Standing in front of my hotel toilet in Barcelona for 20 minutes trying to find the handle so I could it.
Armando Diaz
Atlanta, GA   USA  Wed 09/10/2003


Vernazza
Sitting outside the Blue Marlin in Vernazza, my husband I were joined by two local men who we recognized from town, but hadn't talked with before. They spoke no English, we spoke only our few Italian phrases, but somehow we managed to spend over four hours with them, learning about the town and their lives. Turns out they are the artists, Antonio Barrani and Marco Masini, with a studio in town. Definitely go there! We drank wine in their gallery, saw their private courtyard with the most amazing view, and admired the garden Antonio had planted with his wife, who we met the next day. Before we left for home, we bought one of Antonio's paintings portraying the changing, magical Vernazza -- a great reminder of our new friends!
Kristin Edlund
Bellevue, WA   USA  Tue 09/09/2003


Scottish humor
I was waiting for my connecting flight to Heathrow at Keflavik Airport in Iceland when I struck up a conversation with an American family taking the grandparents for a visit to their home country of Scotland. I had a recording of Loch Lomond sung by a friend with me, and I shared it with the grandmother. The woman, impressed with the recording, passed the earphones to her elderly husband. He kept listening, and listening, until I knew the song was over, as it was the only song on the CD. His wife must have been thinking the same thing, so she asked him, "What are you listening to now?" He responded in his brogue, "Silent Night."
Amanda
Clayton, MO   USA  Sat 09/06/2003


Magic Moments
Flying from London to Rome August 2001 while waiting for the restroom I was invited into the cockpit by the flight attendant. She coaxed me by saying "you have got to see the view." We were flying over the Alps and it was a beautiful and clear day. The co-pilot then gave full detail of the peaks, their height and common names. This was right before Sept 11th. This will never happen again. I felt and feel so fortunate to have experienced this.
J. Straw
Walnut Creek, Ca   USA  Thu 09/04/2003


Romantic Roman Rainstorm
During our trip to Italy, my then boyfriend (now husband) and I went to a little eatery very close to the Colosseum in Rome. We had noticed the darkening sky when we went in to eat, but by the time we finished, it was a full-blown downpour. The streets were filling up rapidly. We started to head back to the hotel, but didn't have any kind of rain cover, so we decided to wait it out for a few minutes on a door stoop which we noticed some others doing. Well, we ended up standing on that stoop for nearly 40 minutes watching as the rain poured down and the streets filled up with water till it nearly reached our toes - about 2 feet up from street level. Lightning and thunder filled the sky over the Colosseum which loomed before us, it was quite a sight. Very humbling. Then, when the storm finally began to slacken, we were highly entertained by an older German couple who were making their way through the flooded streets. The man had his pant legs rolled up and was trying to carry the woman piggyback - he nearly lost her a couple times, but they were giggling and having a ball. Made us laugh to watch them. Having never been in a flash flood before, this was truly an experience I'll not soon forget.
Laura
Portland, OR   USA  Thu 09/04/2003


We just returned from visiting friends in Turkey. We had several magic moments but two, in particular stand out.

Our friend, Julide, who is a licensed tour guide in Istanbul, arranged an evening cruise on the Bosphorus for us, along with about 20 other friends and family. It was truly a magical evening that we shared with warm and wonderful people. They opened their hearts to us and we truly felt as though we were part of their circle. I will never forget the multigenerational crowd dancing together with tambourines thumping in time to loud Turkish music (including the catchy Turk Cola commercial) or Grandmother trying to explain to me that everyone was HER family.

The other memory happened because we got on the road late that day and arrived in Selcuk only two hours before Ephesus was to close. Julide was not daunted and we went right in for what turned out to be our private tour. As it turned out, the cruise ships and their passengers were gone, leaving the four of us to share Ephesus with only a few other people. Sometimes, faith can be elusive and other times, you just KNOW. In Ephesus, as the sun set on the still-warm ruins, there was no denying that we were really in God's incredible country.
Sandra Cassimus
Oklahoma City, OK   USA  Wed 08/20/2003


I have spent the summer on Northern Spain & it has been great. From the Atlantic cost to the mountains is about an hour drive. The scenery is fastic, the food is wonderful and the best thing is most Americans have not discovered it!!!!!! I have been told that it is the most authentic part of Spain. This is not the south coast that is filled with Americans & British, this is the real Spain where you better know some Espan?l! I have had many magical moments. If you want to see the authentic Spain I suggest Cantabria. Cities like Laredo & & Castro Urdiales are still they have been for hundred of years.
JC
Colorado Springs, CO   USA  Tue 08/19/2003


Just returned from a fantastic two week whirlwind tour of Italy (first visit)! A highlight was visiting Sicily and seeking out my ancestral roots in Termini Imeresi. Hired a cab driver in Palermo named Antonino to act as our guide. This man was a treasure and helped me locate the T.I. city hall office (visiting many locals and sites along the way- even found the via named for my family!) A delightful woman in the records office (did not speak any english) spent more than an hour researching my family history. Searching through old leather-bound records books (dating back to 1820!)while precariousy balancing a lit cigarette in her mouth, she located the documented wedding details of my great-great grandparents. She transcribed notes-all in Italian of course- for me. She offered to do more research and will hopefully mail more info my way. It was an amazing experience to actually discover and see the written history of ones own ancestors as it was recorded so many generations ago!
Scott
Portland, OR   USA  Thu 08/14/2003


Thank you for this way of sharing memories. Several years ago my wife and I were touring England and were at Blenheim Palace not long before closing. As the tour ended we went into the small chapel. There were only about seven or eight people there, so we could enjoy the solitude. All of a sudden a young women, setting on the front row began to sing "Ave Maria." She had a beautiful voice and the beauty of her voice and the beauty of the song made for a very spiritual experience and one that will never be forgotten.
Bob
Logan, UT   USA  Tue 08/12/2003


Magic Moments
In 1999 my husband and I were traveling on our first trip to the Emerald Isle. We were in Cong (County Mayo) visiting the location where "The Quiet Man" staring John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara was filmed in the 1950s. Wandering around near the abbey and its forest, we came across a distinguished gentleman walking his two border collies. Missing our own two dogs, we fussed over them. The three of us had a long conversation about our canine family members, and the conversation inevitably turned to our national origins. "Are you Irish?", he asked. We both answered in the affimative. I added that I was an O'Connor on my mother's side. The gentleman took two steps back and slowly bowed to me from the waist. "Do you realize that you are descended from one of the last kings of Irelend - Rory O'Connor?" He then proceeded to walk us over to one of the gates of the abbey where an ancient and weathered image of the king was carved in stone. We left Cong that day with me walking a foot off the ground!
Joanne Munro
Lakewood, CO   USA  Mon 08/11/2003


Don't forget to look up in Spain. Storks fly the skies above and you can see their big nests in trees and the on the top ledges of buildings. A stork view from the castle window in Segovia is divine. Watch them soar in for a high nest landing.
Marie
Verona, NJ   USA  Wed 08/06/2003


Canal Du Midi France
In 1662 Mr Rouquet started the construction of a canal waterway that allow barge traffic from Bordeaux to The Rhone River (Atlantic to Med) You can rent boats and cruise this and many other canals in Europe. We went from Carnon to Homps on a trip we will never forget. My wife and I rented a boat for one week for 600$. This was during off season in March. The weather can be tricky in March but we were lucky. We were rewarded with an intimate and crowdless journey. During the summer it is like a freeway during rush hour. In the off season 3 couples could share a boat for 60$ a day each. Beware there are locks (ecluses) that you must navigate through while others in your party handle the rope work. This would be great for teenagers wanting to keep busy. You ride your boat on a tree lined canal and for 2 hours a day then you can stay at a camping site or tie off anywhere and set up camp for the night. The boats have kitchen , dining room, beds, showers, etc.. From your boat you can bike into small french villages and have your bottle of wine refilled while you buy a baguette. The canal is tree lined and spectacular. In the Camargue area it is more desolate as you sleep with the pink flamingos and herons. A true treat that brings tears every time I think of it. A great way to spend time with your loved ones. Check out www.canal-du-midi.org. We used France Passion Pleasance for our boat.
Cyril
San Francisco, Ca   USA  Mon 08/04/2003


Taking a wine and cheese break one perfect afternoon at the lovely Hotel Bonnet -- a Rick Steves suggestion. Drinking the delicious local wine on the terrace, taking in a breathtaking view of the Dordogne River valley and the dramatic Beynac castle above us. My first taste of true roquefort cheese. Truly delicious! Beynac at night is also most spectacular. We fell asleep to the sounds of the babbling brook which runs behind the hotel, and watched the swallows swoop dramatically by our window in the morning. Beynac is a truly magical place.
Nancy Wipper
St. Paul, MN   USA  Sat 08/02/2003


Just returned from London (July, 2003)and had an exciting end to a terrific trip. While going through the security checkpoint at Gatwick, the newly-crowned British Open champ, an American, Ben Curtis was right ahead of us in line clutching the Claret Jug as if he never wanted to let it go. We congratulated him on his victory, told him we were going to the PGA Championship and asked if he would mind obliging us for a photo. He nicely agreed and it was an exciting end to an exciting trip.
Laurie Seier
Williamsville, NY   USA  Sat 07/26/2003


On our recent first trip to Europe, we planned to eat our way across the continent--which we did, and still managed to lose a couple of pounds from all the walking we did. Tired feet brought on the loveliest treat of the trip. After a morning and early afternoon of museum exploring in Paris, we headed out on the train to see Versailles, thinking that the crowds should be getting smaller that time of day. A good sign right away was that more people were heading back to the train station than were heading for the palace. After touring the magnificent apartments, we headed out to see the gardens.

As much as we love flowers and gardening, we could see that we didn't really have the energy left to walk all around the huge area there and see all we wanted to see. Then we spotted the horse-drawn carriages. Since we hadn't spent as much money in England as we had budgeted, we decided we could splurge on a carriage ride. There were several offered from 45 euros up to 120 euros, but we decided just to go the 45-euro route. The woman who was in charge then told us that since it was nearing the end of the day, and they weren't all that busy, that if we were willing to pay 50 euros, we could get most of the 120-euro route. It was absolutely wonderful. We got to see so much, and our driver Cindy was extremely nice, and we got envious looks from a lot of weary walkers as well as lots of people snapping our picture as we rode by. A real magic moment! We got dropped off at the gate where the horses headed off back to their barn. All we had to do was walk back up the hill with rested feet, enjoying the flower beds as we went.
Kent Stork
Fremont, NE   USA  Mon 07/21/2003


While traveling with my favorite tour company, we voted and made a tiny detour. Our bus rolled tightly into a tiny sicilian village where one of our fellow travelers was born. He left over 50 years before and had never been back. The faces on the locals were enough to make the trip, but it got even better. Crowds of children and old people began spilling out of doors and alleys cheering and waving. We were a bus full of teary eyed Americans.As we slowly crept through town our eyes were all on our sicilian american friend. He peered out the window taking in everything he could. "I remember that fountain! " he cried out. Tears of joy I have never seen before or since. We all cried and laughed. We stopped for a moment and all got out. The people were fantastic. We shopped a bit and were given food and odd little items as souveniers (not being a tourist stop they gave what they had). When a very old man was told who our friend was he began to shake and cry. Listening to his old memories of the little boy was a gift to all of us. Our friend's Sicilian began flooding back. We all made new friends that day. Thankfully we were due to spend 2 nights nearby in Palermo. Villagers came into the city those evenings. We all ate and laughed and were shown a wonderful time. Leaving Sicily is always a sad time, watching as it falls below the horizon from the back of the overnight ferry. But not usually this sad. It certainly cemented our group relationship. We truly felt like one big Sicilian family recounting our family reunion.
D
FL   USA  Sat 07/19/2003


Christmas Eve in Vienna
I am enchanted that you have a wall to share magic moments. My all-time favorite of many is the memory of standing on the front steps of a cathedral in Vienna on Christmas eve, singing Christmas carols with my friend. Smiling as we looked away from each other and into the dark sky, we were both astonished to see enormous snow flakes begin to fall. We stood and sang in the covered alcove as a blanket of white hushed the city. It was a magical night! And, kudos to the Vienna snow crew (they even had snow blades on Jeeps, moving down the sidewalks!) who had the whole thing "cleaned up" by noon the next day!
Deb
citizen of the world, USA  Fri 07/18/2003


Beautiful Scotland Memory
Oh the hill just outside the walls of the Stirling Castle in Scotland, a local pipe and drum band gave a free evening concert recently. Me and my sweetie enjoying the beautiful weather, georgeous scenery, and awe-inspiring music...it just doesn't get any better than that!
Renee
CO   USA  Fri 07/11/2003


Anniversay in Provence
My wife and I just completed a 3 week trip to Europe to celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary. On our last night, in Vaison la Romaine in Provence, we had dinner in one of Rick's recommended restaurants (name escapes me right now). When the dessert of chocolate mousse arrived, I set it in the middle of the table and wished my wife a happy anniversary, which brought tears to both of our eyes.
Mark
Columbus, Oh   USA  Fri 07/11/2003


Magic near Gatwick
The last night of our stay in England we booked a room at a hotel at Gatwick since our flight left early the next morning. The desk clerk steered us to a pub within walking distance of the hotel for dinner. It was literally through the graveyard of an 18th century parish church. After a wonderful meal we walked back in the dusk through the graveyard with the old tilted, lichen covered stones and the Bell ringers of the church began rehearsing. Through the windows of the church we could see men and women sitting and pulling the 6 bells of the church as the music swelled over the graveyard. Truely a lasting memory, and all within 10 minutes walk of the typical airport hotels... The pub was called the Ye Old Inn of Six Bells. There are magic places everywhere - even next to the airport!
Sharon
co   USA  Wed 07/09/2003


Take time to enjoy
Take a day and spend time in Salisbury, England. Stonehenge is not something to miss. You must go to Versailles on a Sunday to see the fountains, Notre Dame to hear the bells. In Switzerland drive into the heart of the Alps and just take it in. The best moments are the ones where you actually stop and soak in where you are. Sitting at a cafe in Paris may be ordinary for Parisians but it is a way for us to really feel the culture.
K. Candullo
Ridgefield, CT   USA  Mon 07/07/2003


Awesome Eiffel.
On my last night in Paris before returning home after a wonderful month in Europe, I was returning to my hotel near the Eiffel tower. I got off the metro at Ecole Militaire and found myself looking down the length of the Parc de Champ de Mar at the Eiffel tower, which of course was spectacularly illuminated. Since I had arrived in Paris five days earlier, there had been festivities for a soccer championship, and the Parc de Champs de Mars had been fenced off for private parties. Now the fences and party tents were gone. It was almost midnight, it was dead calm, the grass was wet from a recent rainshower and the Parc was absolutely deserted except for a small group of teenagers huddled in one corner, quietly singing and playing guitar. I hopped the curb and slowly, slowly walked directly up the middle of the Parc - all the time staring up in awe at the glowing golden tower. I felt like I was the only person in Paris and the Eiffel Tower belonged only to me.
Larry
Canada  Thu 07/03/2003


Magic Moment
We just returned from our very first trip abroad (at age 40!)to England and had many magical, dream-come-true moments, but one sticks out in my mind over all the rest. Having never been in a cathedral, we were more than awed as we toured Wells Cathedral, near Bath. We rounded one corner and ducked through an unassuming doorway to find ourselves at the foot of a mysterious staircase. No one was around, so were weren't sure we were supposed to be there, but we decided to explore anyway. Halfway up, the stairs veered off to the right and opened into what we discovered was the chapter house, a domed meeting room. We were alone and so my husband, who is the worship leader at our church, began to quietly sing and worship. The accoustics in the room were amazing and his voice just filled the place and my heart! We had a good 5 minutes of private worship before anyone else came in and it was heavenly! Evensong wasn't bad either!
Glenna
Othello, WA   USA  Thu 07/03/2003


Aran Islands
Biking along the coast from the harbor to Dun Angus on Inishmore of the Aran Islands in Ireland (stopping once in a while to look inside a crumbling stone house on the side of the road, or wander through a graveyard), then sitting on the edge of the cliffs with the waves crashing below and ancient stone walls encircling us...very, very awesome.
Elizabeth
Brussels, BE  Thu 07/03/2003


Back Yard Vernazza
I think that this is a really cool site on the bulletin board. While touring Italy with a band of teenagers we encountered some really cool places which were totally unexpected, like the back side of the Duomo in Fiorenza for a totally unscheduled jazz vertuosso. We danced till the roosters crowed!But on a more somber note, the chapel in Vernazza was a totally unexpected feature. The teenagers loved Vernazza for it's nightlife, it's vitality, and it's scent of modern Italy at play. What we found,in the chapel on the waterfront was quite unexpected.Vernazza was a fishing community before it was a tourist attraction, and the history was palpable. Ghosts of mariners lost tapped us on the shoulder as we lit a candle in the in the refectory for our dearly departed.Honest. We didn't feel as close to God in St. Peter's Basilica. Best Wishes and Great Travels, Todd and Deb Fowler
Toddrod
Athens, Ga   USA  Wed 07/02/2003


magical moments
Make them your own! But they are not mine. Shared through enless space and time, your's or mine, all are devine. To share sunsets and sunrises,amid first times. Creates mystic that's precious and magical moments that's timeless.
Don
San Antonio, TX   USA  Tue 07/01/2003


"keepin it real"
one of the most amusing moments was a conversation i heard on a train from amsterdam to bern. a young black american man talking to a white middle-aged german man about politics. the american said, there's a saying we have it's called "keepin' it real" and he tried to explain the saying to the german man. the german then kept refering back to the saying as "having it real" later in that very long ride the american over heard us talking about needing a place to stay in bern. he called up one of his friends in switzerland and had him look up a place for us. how nice was that, now that's 'keepin it real"
amanda
boulder, co   USA  Tue 07/01/2003


Prado Artwork
My husband and I returned to Spain earlier this month, this time with our 3 teenagers. My son who will leave for art school in August stood and sketched Goya's bust in the Prado as onlookers stole glimpses of his work! Now that's something I will never forget.
Stella Rodery
League City, TX   USA  Mon 06/30/2003


4th of July
We were up in the Eiffel Tower on the 4th of July 2002. My kids were grumbling that they were missing the fun back home, when all of a sudden, the wind whipped up and the sky darkened and there were amazing lightening bolts everywhere. We stood in awe and then thought about being in a metal structure in a flat country in a storm. We made our way back to the hotel in the rain. My kids still talk about the fantastic 4th in Paris.
robin
BI, Wa   USA  Sat 06/28/2003


Magic Moments
My magic moment happened when I was in bed in Tunisia. It was in the middle of a sultry evening. The window in the bedroom was floor to ceiling in length and covered in sheer white panels. In the middle of the night I awoke to the sound of the muezzin calling the faithful to prayer. This is such a remarkable and foreign sound that I went to the window to listen while the breeze softly blew in the scent of jasmine as the sheer white panels gently danced. Honestly, I felt like Scheherazade.
Pam
Portland, OR   USA  Fri 06/27/2003


Guernica
I had an experience of awe the day I saw Pablo Picasso's Guernica at the Reina Sofia art museum in Madrid last summer. I have seen representations of this work countless times in Spanish texbooks, Art History books, even World History books, but when I stood in front of it that afternoon, and saw it in the flesh--saw how massive and intense and and horrifying and beautiful it was all at once, something struck a chord deep inside of me. My eyes stung, and for a brief moment, the impressive Guernica before me became a blur.
Chantell
Montgomery, AL   USA  Thu 06/26/2003


magic moments
Throughout our three week trip I became very fond of the church bells ringing on the quarter hour, but the most special moment was a wonderful ten minute church bell concert in Castelrotto, on Sunday evening. Whenever I hear a church bell now it takes me back to that wonderful musical moment with the sun setting behind the beautiful mountains visible from our window.
Dianne
San Antonio, TX   USA  Wed 06/25/2003


Laundomat in Bern
If in Bern, Switzerland and needing a laundromat, take the #20 bus east from the hauptbahnhof to the Lorraine stop. The "Jet Wash" (Dammweg 43) is in the next block, across the street. No change machine, but sign says change available from the restaurant next door. Wash - SF8, dry - SF4 (includes free use of after-wash centrifuge). If it's Sunday, you'll find the restaurant closed, but thanks to another laudromat patron, a man from northern Spain, I learned that I could get change from a nearby Italian restaurant that was open on Sunday. They weren't overly anxious to give change, but I had an orange juice and a coffee and that seemed to help. Seemed very natural to say 'Ciao' as I left to walk back to the laudromat.
Dick
Lakewood, CO   USA  Wed 06/25/2003


Talking with others
Besides striking up conversations with Germans on my trip, I would usually inquire about home state or city when I encountered Americans. I was walking on the shady path between the Reichstag and Brandenberg Gate in Berlin when I passed a family sitting on one of the benches along the path. I heard the teen-aged son speaking in English, so I blurted out "Where' you from?". To my complete surprise, the smiling father shot back "Berlin!". After recoving my composure, I said in my fractured German, 'The son spoke English'. The father, maybe a little confused at my comments up to that point, replied with 'Alles klar', the German phrase meaning 'everything is clear' similar to the US 'oh, I get it...'. At that point we both smiled and I realized that I just had a 20 second European moment that I would remember for a lifetime.
Dick
Lakewood, CO   USA  Wed 06/25/2003


Neuschwanstein
I literally felt like I was a king viewing my medieval kingdom when I first caught a glimpse of Neuschwanstein and the valley below from the Marienbrucke bridge. I couldn't believe what I was seeing. This place is SO worth the trip.
Devin
Alexandria, VA   USA  Mon 06/23/2003


Basilica of St. Paul's Outside the Wall, Rome
On the day our tour ended in Rome, we took the metro to St. Paul's Outside the Wall. While we walked around the basilica in awe, I remembered a comment in the tour book which said the church was like heaven...and then came the angels. A German tour group stopped in the middle of the church and formed themelves into a choir complete with their back-packed choir master leading them. They sang three hymns in Latin as we just sat and listened. I offered a teary-eyed "grazie"; and they turned back into tourists like the rest of us, looking at the beautiful church.
Susan
Northport, NY   USA  Thu 06/19/2003


Musical Magic in Salzburg
Of a month long European vacation in Sept 2002, one of my most memorable, magical days was spent in Salzburg. The morning spent on the Sound of Music tour, where the breathtaking scenery of the Austrian countryside, accompanied by the music played on the tour bus was fabulous! Followed by an evening attending a Mozart/Strauss Concerto held at the ages-old Fortress atop the hill overlooking the city of Salzburg... the atmosphere in that old Fortress was amazing. Not just this day, but the entire trip was an absolute dream come true. I cannot wait to return!
Cherie
Buckley, WA   USA  Wed 06/18/2003


Magical UK
As with many people, some of my most magical moments are in association with my first trip to Europe. My first European trip was several months after 9/11, a trip I had booked because I strongly felt that I needed to travel and to become more of a world citizen. The many kindnesses and warm-heartedness of all we encountered was very much appreciated. One moment that sticks out in my mind aside from that was at the end of our long train ride from London to Edinburgh. Our train arrived shortly after sunset, and our cabbie took us down Princes Street on the way to our rental car company. Seeing Castle Hill lit up against a dying sunset was perhaps one of the most magical moments in my history--like a fairy tale. I just returned from my most recent trip, on which I used Icelandair. We had a short layover in Reykjavik, and the take-off and landing in a crystal-clear, freshly rained-upon Iceland, with miles of lava fields interrupted by occasional volcanoes, was almost surreal. I am definitely taking Icelandair from now on, because of the customer service, the nice break in an otherwise long flight, and the quite welcome stop at the Blue Lagoon on the way back--much needed after walking around in London for several days. I was relaxed all the way back to the States. This trip was my brother's first big trip anywhere, and I was so glad to have shared it with him. He is 18, and his girlfriend is 17, and the dinner we had at a Greek restaurant in Bayswater, London, was priceless. They are from a remote, small town, so I ordered for them, and they were delighted when the waitor (very, very Greek) asked what kind of wine they wanted. Trying all of the traditional Mediterranean appetizers was so much fun for them (Santorini's, I think on Moscow Road near Queensway). As much fun as they were, though, I think the moment I cherish most was spending a misty evening to myself on the eastern shore of Loch Lomond. I found a pier jutting out into the Loch, went out with a drink, a camera, and a CD of an old friend (now at Juilliard) singing the traditional song. Not the first time I had been there, but definitely the best. The best moment in all my travels, though, was actually over the middle of the Atlantic watching the sun rise over a heavy cloud cover while listening to a William Harris's "Faire Is the Heaven," recorded when I was in college. I forgot I was on a plane...
Amanda
Clayton, MO   USA  Sat 06/14/2003


Dolphins Cinque Terre
Seeing dolphins jumping off the coast of Monterosso! We went on a 'sunset cruise' with seemingly grumpy but warmhearted captain Fabio and not only saw the gorgeous sunset but also had dolphins accompany us along the way! We booked through www.fishnet.it and it really made our stay there special.
Debbie Flores
scottsdale, az   USA  Fri 06/13/2003


Faith, family, culture in Sevilla
One of the most inspirational and magical moments of our recent two week trip to Spain was the cultural atmosphere of Sevilla. Not only does Sevilla have charm, tapas bars and flamenco dancing; it also is the heart of religious culture. The many parades, festivals and worship events for Mary, the mother of Jesus were spectacular. Locals on the streets where nightly parades and festivals took place would break down in prayer and offer worship in the streets. As a catholic from America, my faith was rejuvenated!
Pamela Reeder
Tampa, Fl   USA  Sun 06/08/2003


Amilie Fans
In the movie Amilie, Nino goes around collecting disgarded photos from the photo-booths. Well, it's easy! I found 10 photos in 10 days, including the photo of the maintenance technician! My son and I also had our photos made to start our collection.
Robert Durvin
Clearwater, FL   USA  Sun 06/08/2003


Orvieto at sunset
Our magic moment was on the 1st night in Italy- we had arrived in Rome, barely made the train, and spent an hour searching for our hotel in Orvieto. We were tired, our feet hurt, and we had no idea how this trip was going to work out. As we sat at a small restaurant on the piazza having our first dinner in Italy with the sun just setting behind the bell tower, a choir began to sing (it was Sunday night). From that point on, I never wondered if I'd have a good trip. Sunset, great food, a Tuscan hill town- and a church choir. La Dolce Vita, indeed!
Tom Burrell
Minneapolis, MN   USA  Sun 06/01/2003


Piazzale with a View
While visiting Florence last March, our chartered coach took us to the Piazzale Michelangelo, across the Arno river and with a magnificent view of the bridges across the Arno, a golden ribbon bathed in the warm glow of a late afternoon sun which gilded the Duomo and the Palazzo Vecchio. I squinted my eyes and had visions of a Turner sunset or one of the Dutch masters painting of Haarlem and Bavokerk. It was the kind of scenery to inspire the poet and artist in all of us.
dennis
Santa Rosa, CA   USA  Thu 05/29/2003


Westminster Abbey
By chance, Palm Sunday Service at Westminster Abbey - front row seating!
Ron
Clarendon Hills, IL   USA  Thu 05/22/2003


Magical Beynac
My husband and I spent 7 weeks in Europe in the Spring of 2001. My most favorite Magical Moment was an inpromptu gathering on the veranda of our B&B in the heart of the Dordogne in Beynac, France. Our hosts, Francoise and Jean-Claude, brought out a bottle of wine, while we and our fellow travelers contributed fois gras and other goodies we had purchased earlier that day at Sarlat's Market. We stayed up late into the night sharing stories about our home, families, cultural differences, you name it. Beynac is a magical city. From this veranda (and our room at the B&B), three medival castles were in full view, scattered along the hill tops creating a breathtaking view.
Julie Thurston
Durham, NC   USA  Thu 05/22/2003


Granada
Arrived in granada on recent trip and there was a local festival on. Sat on the square BiB-Rambla and had refreshements and great food while watching the local folks all dressed in colourful costumes parade by. there was also local dancing and music happening on the square.
werner
Vancouver, CANADA  Tue 05/20/2003


Magic Moments
In 1998 I went to Austria for the first time, to visit my father's cousins. They took me everywhere, and then one day to St. Margaretten in the Rosenthal Valley of southern Austria. As you leave Klagenfurt, you come to a hill, and there the valley lies spread out before you, all green and glowing in the sun (Rosenthal is Slovenian for "Green Valley"). The drive through the valley was lovely, but when we got to St. Margaretten and stopped to look around, the moment was indeed magical. I saw where my father had been born--not the same house, but the same water pump was there as in an old family photo. The hills of the valley rise behind the village and you can look in 3 directions and see nothing but rolling countryside and neat villages--all with red tile roofs. A somewhat ironical moment joined the "magic moment" when my father's cousin pointed in several directions and said, "Your great-grandfather owned that and that and that, but he lost it all in gambling!" I wonder if my grandmother would have consented to leave this beautiful spot for America had her father still owned half the village!
Hilde
Old Bridge, NJ   USA  Sat 05/17/2003


Ullswater
One of my fondest memories is from my first trip to England. I had been reading alot of English literature for a year prior to my trip. We were in Ullswater in the Lake District; a heavy rain had just ended, so I decided to go for a walk. A small lane along side a churning stream lead up to a emerald green hillside with sheep scattered about. I turned and saw the most beautiful sun streamed view of the village & lake below. It was just like so many scenes described in the books I had read. Simply lovely
Sam Oxford
Clayton, MO   USA  Fri 05/16/2003


Room With A View
My 1st trip to Italy, I traveled solo. When I arrived at my hotel, they informed me that there had been a plumbing leak and they would have to move me across the street to another hotel. I decided to relax & go with the flow. The owner's son lead me to the small budget hotel, upon entering I was greeted by an older Italian woman. She began to smile and speak to me in Italian, took my hand and lead me down the hall to my room. The door opened to a small, plain, and yet very clean room that offered a large shuttered window. She very happily strolled over to the window and threw the shutters open to reveal a wonderful view of the Duomo. To my delight, I had my very own "Room With A View".
C Keathley
St. Louis, MO   USA  Fri 05/16/2003


Volendam, Netherlands
My mother finally convinced me that I would love Europe. I've never traveled outside of New England, let alone to a foreign country. She also somehow convinced me that we didn't need to book a tour, we could do it on our own. Rick says so! So off we went in May of 1990 for three weeks. It was most memorable and magical, and the time spent with my Mom on that trip was priceless, and provides endless memories whenever we reminisce. One of many magical moments comes to mind, near the end of our trip.

We were in the little fishing village of Volendam, in the Netherlands. We were tired, and scheduled to fly home the next day. My mother felt she should go to church, and asked our B&B host when the next Mass was. He told us 11 am and where the church was. We found it easily and, as we still had a few hours to wait, wandered around the village. Soon we heard the church bells ringing although it was not yet 11. My mother, afraid to miss Mass, insisted that we go back to the church; we must have gotten the time wrong. Sure enough, as we neared the church, we saw people heading in, many in their Sunday finery and a few in traditional Dutch dress. We sat in the back, admiring the interior, and waited for Mass to begin. When it did, the organ in the balcony began to play "Pomp and Circumstance," and from the rear of the church, a bride and groom made their way to the alter. We were attending a Dutch wedding! We didn't know if we should leave or stay. It was so beautiful, and we weren't getting any negative "vibes" from anyone, so we stayed and attended a wedding ceremony in Dutch. Truly magical.

We think of that couple every year on their annversary, whoever they may be. My mother was also right. I love Europe!
Diane Marion
Union, ME   USA  Thu 05/08/2003


Music in St. Chapelle
Listening to a quartet playing chamber music in St. Chapelle in Paris.
Margi
St. Paul, MN   USA  Wed 05/07/2003


Early Morning, Mont St. Michel, France
We arrived late in the evening after driving around the coast from Carnac with dinner in Dinan. As we walked up the causeway to the island, the kids could not believe we were staying THERE. Early in the morning, I got up and walked up the battlements to the top of the island, all alone as the tide came in, treasuring each step and view. After breakfeast we toured an almost empty abbey. The contrast was even greater as the tour buses arrived as we left.
Don
Issaquah, WA   USA  Sun 05/04/2003


Paradore in Ronda, Spain
My husband and I made our first independent trip (without a group) to Spain a few years ago. We spent 17 days driving through Andalusia, including two nights in Ronda. We had a gorgeous corner room at the Paradore in Ronda, with two balconies: one looking straight down at the gorge and bridge, and the other facing the sweeping plain below. Since it was warm, we left the french doors open while we slept. I woke up at 3:00 am and saw a full moon centered in the doorway, spilling light over our beds and the valley below. It was breathtaking . . . and very magical. I woke my husband up so he could share the moment. It was like something out of a movie, and a highlight of our trip.
Beth
MI   USA  Fri 05/02/2003


Magic Moments
It has been 13 years since this magical moment, but I still cherish the memory. On a ETBD tour, having walked the wall in Rothenburg, Germany, early in the morning, two of us decided to hike down to the little village below. After looking at the carefully tended graves and having a nice conversation with two women who were tending the garden space, we decided to visit the little chapel. As we sat there, enjoying the peace and quiet, in came another group. Suddenly they got to their feet and burst into song. How thrilling it was to hear "Ein Feste Burg" in German!
Evie Hutton
Shoreline, WA   USA  Wed 04/30/2003


Magic Moment
When Celeste of Hotel Tavolozza in Positano, Italy, first showed us to our room, she threw open the doors to our terrace overlooking the sea. We could tell she wanted to share this beauty with us and was so proud to be able to do so. For us, of course, it was a definite magic moment that we'll remember always!
Deb Fritsch
Madison, Wisconsin   USA  Sun 04/27/2003


Roots
After finding the building where my great grandmother was born in the Czech Republic, and chills going up and down my spine, we realized the pensione we had stayed at was literally one block away. Was it a coincidence that we picked it out of the book at the train info office?
Bob and Ingrid Krajicek
New Paltz, NY   USA  Sat 04/26/2003


Venice Again
The previous Venice post reminded me of when I stepped out of the same train station and was confronted with the spectacle of the Grand Canal. I had to stare at it for a minute and think, "Wow, it's REAL!" You can see something on TV or in pictures a zillion times, but nothing compares to the thrill and surreality of actually standing in front of it. The first time I saw the Eiffel Tower, stood in Red Square, and saw my family's Scottish ancestral home, I got chills.
Charles Buchanan
Birmingham, AL   USA  Thu 04/17/2003


Venice
When we stepped out of the train station in Venice, I gasped and said "oh my god, it's like Disneyland!" The funny thing is that I don't remember saying it. We were there for a week, with the first two days being the final days of Carnival. If you have the chance to see this event, don't miss it. We left Venice early on a Sunday, did not know the vaparetto schedule would be different, rushed to a different stop, and prayed that we wouldn't miss our train. It was a beautiful morning, my long hair was wet from the late shower, it was flying all over the place while the boat glided toward the train station, and I cried at having to leave this place.
Cheryl Bisceglia
seattle, wa   USA  Sat 04/05/2003


Ile de Poquerolles, Provence
Our family's perfect moment was in the Ile de Poquerolles, a small island off the coast of Provence. You reach it by ferry from Hyeres and there are no cars on the island. You can hike or bike to beaches reminiscent of the Caribbean with clear warm water and fish swimming with you on sandy beaches. We had finished our picnic on the sand with all our water and just as my daughters began to plead for drinks (the nearest store was 2 miles away), along came two Frenchmen pulling "The Soda Boat," stocked with chilled drinks and close enough to shore for us to wade out and buy them. Another day, an "Ice Cream Boat" came by. The contrast with my youthful days at Manhattan Beach, Brooklyn, and boys selling "Fudgy wudgy ice cream" was noticable.
Lisa Sorrento
brookville, NY   USA  Sat 04/05/2003


Magic Moments
We often go to Amsterdam and rent an apartment. This actually costs less than renting a good quailty room and you get to live where other people really live. From here we go on shorter trips, usually just overnight to other countries. While on one of these trips I read the fine print on my train ticket (I love the trains in Northern Europe).

I noticed that if you paid just a few Euro with your ticket, you could get a bike at a big discount. We had planned on visiting Maarden and Muiderberg on bikes. We bought the ticket and took the train to Bussum, then got our bikes at the train station. I don't do so well in traffic but there is a bike path almost the entire trip. We were traveling on the bike path, looking at the nice farm houses between Narden and Muiderberg, when nature called. No bathrooms in the countryside, so I went toward a copse of trees off the road.

I noticed what looked like an old dike up a tiny hill. We wandered around a bit, looking at how the rocks were cut and such. I wandered a bit futher and saw the most wonderful thing. We were on the vast, inland sea, the old Zuider Zee I think. There was a perfect, isolated beach with two swans floating by. It was very joyous and ever so romantic. We later heard an old song called "The Banks of the Zuider Zee" and felt it was written just for us. I hope you all get to see this wonderful place and experience that feeling as well. The castle at Muiderberg is wonderful and very off the beaten path.
Planet Bubbles
Eugene, OR   USA  Thu 04/03/2003


Great London walk
At night, the wide walkway along the south bank of the Thames between Tower Bridge and Parliament affords a marvelous view of all those famous London sights, illuminated and reflected in the river. It was a couple of miles but well worth the sore feet. If a 60ish geezer like me can handle it, surely you can. A cabbie said not to stray into the neighborhoods south of the river at night, though. Maybe he was trying to drum up business, but I went back to the hotel on the bus anyway.
Henry
La Crosse, WI   USA  Sun 03/30/2003


Swiss magic
A truly magical moment occurred high in the Swiss Alps in the tiny village of Beatenberg. We were celebrating my parents' birthdays and had just finished our cake. As we wandered down the mountain path, we were greeted by an impromptu yodelling practice. Four men gave us a private concert as we enjoyed the views of the mountains and the lake valley below. It doesn't get more Swiss than that!!
Tricia
Langley, BC   Canada  Wed 03/26/2003


Peace by the Seine
My husband and I visited Paris last April. From our hotel across the Seine from the Louvre, I looked out the window to savor the view. Leaning one way, I could see Notre Dame. Looking the other way, I could see the Pont Royal. I went out to wander while my husband napped. I checked out a art nouveau metro stop, and wandered along St. Germaine Ave, by the Musee D'Orsay. On a side street I found a little tiny sandwich shop, where I bought an excellent hot chicken sandwich. I headed to the Pont du Carousel, and then down the steps to the riverside, where I had a lovely lunch watching the boats go by on the river and the lovers go by on the path. This view was like love at first sight. Even a year later, whenever I look at the Seine photo on my computer, I feel peace.
Janice L. Killingbeck
Saginaw, MI   USA  Wed 03/26/2003


50th anniversary of D-Day
Visiting the American Cemetary overlooking Omaha Beach is a magical moment no matter what. But my husband and I were lucky enough to be there for the ceremony marking the 50th anniversary of the D-Day landings. The weather was grey and gloomy, but as President Clinton was speaking, the sun broke through, the sky cleared and turned bright blue--it really did seem like magic. Later, wandering among the graves (so many, so young) we spoke with a Catholic priest who, with tears in his eyes, shared his D-Day experience with us. He came ashore on Omaha Beach, his buddies all around him dying. His experience then and later struggling with the question of why them and not me were what led him to the priesthood. We both hugged him in gratitude for his service for freedom and for his willingness to share this with us.
Mary Rankin
San Anselmo, CA   USA  Thu 03/20/2003


Feste!
I just returned from Rome and Sorrento. On the Sunday night before Ash Wednesday and the start of Lent we were walking around the narrow streets of Sorrento. It seemed that the entire town was out for their evening stroll. I began to notice that children under 10 were dressed in costumes and throwing confetti. It was cool enough to have coats on and they reminded me of US children at Halloween. On Tuesday I realized why - it was a "feste" for the "bambini", like Carnivale. That morning the streets were closed for the parade - each elementary school had a parade of children, all on the story of Pinocchio! It was absolutely charming and for a brief moment I felt like I was experiencing "real" Italy - especially after the hustle of Rome. I would definitely time another visit to coincide with this event.
Mary
Fort Collins, CO   USA  Fri 03/14/2003


Spirit of Place
I'll never forget standing at the Calais hovercraft port (years ago, before the Chunnel) looking across the English Chanel. In the distance I could see the faint white outline of the chalk cliffs of Southern England. My relatives left Southern England in 1852, making their way to Utah as Mormon pioneers. And there I was, the first of their descendents, going back. As I stood there looking at those cliffs on the horizon I was overcome with the feeling that I was going home! Home can be where you come from as much as where you are. I was returning home! I wept openly. If you have traveled you probably know that there is a spirit of place when you stand at Avebury, Dachau, Omaha Beach or similar sites. So it was as I stood on the beach at Calais -- not much in the way of tourism but for me it was a moment that expresses the essence of travel. I'll never forget it.
Kelly
Kaysville, UT   USA  Wed 03/12/2003


Enniskerry Waterfall, Ireland
In November 2002 Me and my partner spent two wonderful weeks in Ireland. It was "off-season" so we had most attractions to ourselves. The waterfall in Enniskerry turned out to be one of the most spectacular afternoons we spent in Ireland. Roaring from a morning storm and topped by a rainbow, a more perfect picture you could not find. We spent hours exploring the surounding grounds and admiring the majestic waterfall, which seemed to be putting on a show for us. We spent two enchanting days in the quaint town of Enniskerry. I think we were the only tourists there!
Mike Wright
philadelphia, PA   USA  Fri 03/07/2003


Sevastopol, Ukraine
During the evenings in the city's center, all along Primorskiy Boulevard the people come out and walk around the park next to the Black Sea. The parks are very dark, and have few street lights. Sunday evenings the elderly and retired Russians meet in the park, play and sing old Russian folk and love songs, and dance together. It is a lovely place to be...
Gary
Whitewater, WI   USA  Sun 02/23/2003


One winter night my daughter and I were stranded with a crowd of others at a remote train stop. The tracks were impassable, and the large group complained loudly as we huddled like a herd of cattle in a small wooden shelter beside the tracks. I gradually became aware that the angry din had abated and the crowd was all facing the same direction, with smiles on their faces. There was my daughter on her knees on a bench, delightedly singing and drawing pictures in the frost on the window!
Carol
CA   USA  Thu 02/20/2003


Italian Customs
Magical moments always creates an especially enjoyable mood as I refect back on our first few weeks living in an Naples area apartment with mostly Italian families as neighbors. Like the first of many times when our 2-year old daughter with blonde cury hair and blue eyes would became the center of attention among 2 or 3 elderly Italian women (strangers) who wanted to stroke her hair or pinch her checks. But Italians as we know tend to became excited especially at a child's smile and would pinch too hard. We never found a good solution, although it created an enjoyable memory.

Or the first time my wife and I was driving the busy two-lane road to reach our house when we had to stop our VW abruptly because these 2 guys in a small Fiat were watching an attrative woman walk. They would watch a few moments, then move their car a few feet and watch some more with whistles and cat-calls while the traffic quickly backed up behind me with horns blowing. This went on for 4 minutes or so, but seemed much longer! That was the day my wife decided she would not be driving in Italy--nor walking alone.
Don
San Antonio, TX   USA  Wed 02/19/2003


Krakow, Poland
During a visit to Krakow, Poland, I spent an afternoon in Las Wolski forest, an easy bus ride just outside of the city. There is a large zoo in the center of the forest where I enjoyed watching the lions, llamas, wolves, monkeys and many other animals. Afterward, I walked along the marked paths to Kosciuszko Mound, a cone of earth that rises 150 feet into the air. From there I could see over the treetops miles in every direction, including Krakow's famous Wawel Castle.

After descending the path that winds around the mound, I wandered some more along the forest trails -- not seeing another soul, by the way -- and found myself about 45 minutes later at a farm at the edge of the forest. I saw a man corral a herd of cattle into the barn and a woman pulling vegetables from a tiny garden. Turning around to find the path again, I was struck, almost breathless, by the sight of a fortresslike building rising from the trees in the distance. It turned out to be the Camadulensian Monastery.

A brisk walk uphill and I was there. Women are allowed only on certain days, so I could not enter. But as I lurked outside the entrance gate, a monk in a long robe pushing a wheelbarrow stopped and chatted with me. Knowing only a few words of Polish, I stopped him with my rehearsed phrase, "Nie mowie po polsku" ("I don't speak Polish"). Then to my surprise he asked me, in Italian, whether I spoke Italian. I took one semester in college so I was able to converse with him on a very rudimentary level. He was so kind and warm, and the memory of that blustery March day will stay with me forever.
Tiffini
Orlando, FL   USA  Tue 02/18/2003


Making an Italian Friend
My mother had come over from the US to live with me in Trento, Italy. She had spent the afternoon in a wonderful natural history museum and was full of enthusiasm for the wonderful rock carvings made by Neolithic man in this museum. She's an artist so she had made sketches. Our friendly Italian landlady shows up to introduce herself. Mother shows her this wonderful thing she had seen, and the lady gasps and says 'mia spousa'. It turned out that her husband was Professor of Archeology at the University of Trento and had found the carvings and put the display together. She is still a close friend 9 years later.
Don S
London, UK  Sun 02/16/2003


Magical moments
Our daughter has lived in France on and off for several years. This has allowed us to visit France and Europe several times. The most magical moment came when we sat in the park by the Eiffel Tower watching the sun set, the people come out to play on the grass and the lights turning on on the tower. As the sky darkened, the tower was even more beautiful than during the day. The lights in the park added a charm to the whole scene. It was indeed the most magical moment of many spent over in Europe
Ken Klomhaus
Evergreen Park, IL   USA  Sat 02/08/2003


Magico Italia!
My daughter and I just returned from our New Year's in Italy trip where we wandered from big city to village and found many magical moments. Like many of the postings, Venice is in the forefront with its stunning vistas, its tiny campos, its grand facades. But our most magical moment was our visit to the grocery store?! We had rented a flat for the week and needed supplies. It was late and cold and rainy. We stood in the long line at the deli counter, salivating over cheeses and prepared foods and preparing to ask for our items. When it was our turn we could see in the aging deli-man's eyes "tourists" but out of my daughter, in perfect 2nd year Italian, came our order and a few pleasantries. Three nights later, we were back in the same line. The same deli-man, but the look in his eyes now! I'll never forget how delighted he seemed to have us back. We were accepted, we were regulars. How were we tonight? Were we enjoying ourselves? Did we like his store? We WERE Venetians. At least for a week.
codybrandy
Boston, Ma   USA  Thu 02/06/2003


Walking in Cornwall
While walking on the Coastal Path in Cornwall, on a very rainy day, our spirits were greatly enhanced by our companions who were from Germany. One lady would sing and then remind us that the sun was shining somewhere! It was a group with great camaraderie and I recommend this special experience of walking behind the hedgerows, through meadows, small villages, and by the seaside with an international group.
Nancy Krider
Richmond, VA   USA  Wed 02/05/2003


Homeward Bound
I awoke to the mechanical crunching of the landing gear dropping down out of the belly of the plane and the hearty aroma of weak airline coffee. I craned my neck to peer out the window of the seat directly behind me and felt as if pure energy had been injected into my veins. Through the small opening I could see the city; and although I could not feel it at that moment I knew from the appearance of the sky that it would be cold, Christmas cold. Memories began to spring up from the recesses of my mind like fast blooming flowers, inundating my thoughts and clouding my perception with uncanny persistence. However, the unsettling and yet soothing reality was that the life I had known for 4 fleeting months would now be no more than a fond memory. I was home.
Rich Palese
Dobbs Ferry, NY   USA  Wed 02/05/2003


Magical Moments, St. Malo, France
I have lived in Europe 17 years. There are so many magical moments, someday I hope to write a book. One of my favorite ones occurred in St. Malo, France. My two friends arrived later afternoon one day and checked into our hotel room which over looked the sea wall. The tide was out and the beach was quite broad. The water's edge was at least 200 meters away from the sea wall. We hurriedly changed clothes for dinner and went out and walked along the sea wall toward the old city. We noticed that the beachgoers seemed to be deserting the sand and we thought that odd. We found a restaurant and had a quiet, leisurely feast of wine and dinner crepes. We came outside about two hours later. To our shock the sea was pounding against the sea wall. It was then we realized why the people were leaving the beach. The tide comes in twice a day and very quickly. That night we opened our shuttered window and listened to the pounding of the waves and the sea. It was the most relaxing, enjoyable rest I have had in years. St. Malo has become one of my favorite places!
Julia
USA  Tue 01/28/2003


Florence Reflections
That afternoon in Florence, there was a moment when the sun shone lazily down upon the city, a man's voice lifted in hushed melody, and in every shaft of sunlight I could see the footprints of three thousand years of history extending down the little street. We were drinking the latest of our endless bottles of water, American style-con gas, while sitting at a table in a tiny outdoor caf? notable only for the utter stillness surrounding it. The Via Vigna Vecchia curled away from the caf? on either side, vanishing into the hazy light and quiet of a steamy July afternoon. Behind me, a young man sang to an older woman, a haunting air bespeaking love and loss, the lovely Italian syllables commingling in the space. I sat in a kind of exhausted reverence for the moment, and pictured the millions of Florentine citizens who had walked the city streets before me, and every one seemed to extend an invitation. At that moment, I wanted nothing more than to stay in Florence forever, discerning its secrets, meeting its past.
Heather Aubert
Villanova, PA   USA  Sun 01/26/2003


Rome Restaurant
As I saw that restaurant, the one snuggled cozily behind the Piaza de Spagna, the memories of the year before came flooding over me in a nostalgic wave. This was the place - Caf? La Rumba. I had dreamed about this place, and thought about this place for so long - the restaurant where Michael and I had dined last June.

It was my first true Roman experience. Outside on the patio, we had supped on spaghetti a le vongole, and drank a few too many liters of Chianti. It had taken me practically an hour just to pry the meat out of the shells. Maybe the peacefulness of the scene just distracted me that night. Or maybe the wine had simply distorted my concentration. However, the warm Italian summer air created this utopian feeling, along with the low musical sound of the words emanating from the mouths of the Italian restaurant-goers surrounding us. I never wanted this night to end. By the time we left the restaurant, the wine had blurred my vision so much that Michael practically had to lift me into the cab. That night was the most enjoyable night of my trip to Rome, and one of the most enjoyable nights of my life.

So as I stood in the bright sun of the hot June day one year later, staring at the restaurant, I barely noticed that my three impatient friends whined and paced impatiently about me. All of those feelings swarmed back and took over my immediate reality. I pulled out my camera and snapped a picture of Cafe La Rumpa, attempting to capture the moment forever, as if it was not already permanently instilled in my mind.
Lisa Muzikar
Villanova, PA   USA  Sun 01/26/2003


Can't wait to go back!!
The two of us went to Europe late August/early September 2002. Here are some highlights...

Barcelona: Looking for a place to eat dinner, my wife and I couldn't get a table at the restaurant our hotel had recommended. We walked a little further down the block and found exactly the kind of place Rick says to seek -- crowded, noisy, no one speaking English. It was called Tapa Tapa! and we had a great time. We sat at the bar eating tapas and sharing our pitcher of sangria with the people next to us. Another nice gentleman we met there was on holiday from Holland. I can't really give one specific moment, the whole night was fantastic.

Normandy: We booked a room at the Best Western in Caen for the few days we spent in Normandy to visit the Memorial and the American Cemetery/Omaha Beach. We visited the cemetery a few days before the 9/11 anniversary. It was cold and rainy and not very crowded due to the weather. I couldn't stop thinking about the incredible sacrifices that so many people made in WWII so that there would continue to be freedom in the world. I had always appreciated the benefits of living in the USA, but seeing the over 9,000 graves on a cloudy and rainy day was very affecting.

A few days later in Caen, we found ourselves looking for dinner on Sunday evening. We had few options anyway, but decided to try the hotel restaurant. It was the best meal we had the entire 3 weeks we were in Europe!! The food was exquisite and the staff provided wonderful service. We tried some "calvados" for an aperitif and found that it's delicious!! The dinner was even more fun because we could hear the large group of Americans at the table next to us talking about their WWII experiences.

On the road back to Paris: It was getting late in the day and it was partially overcast. My wife drifted off to sleep in the passenger seat, leaving me to pilot us back to Paris. After cresting a hill and rounding a slight curve, I saw it: the most beautiful and gigantic rainbow I have ever seen in my life. We were out of film at this point, but I'm sure a photo wouldn't have done it justice. It's one of the most astounding natural sights I've ever seen in my life and it gave me a wonderful feeling to behold its beauty.
Mike
Chicago, IL   USA  Fri 01/24/2003


Spas
I second Amy's comments on Spas. In the US we really don't understand them (Spas are high priced resorts here) but in Europe they are cheap relaxation. On our first trip we did not intend to go to Baden-Baden or the Spas, but on our return to Germany after a wonderful few days in Italy, the Spas saved the day. We left Cinque Terre early in the morning and suffered the many delays and problems that was Italian train travel at that time (Late Trains, missed connections, etc.) We had barely crossed the Swiss-German border at 8:00 at night when we realized that no way we could make our destination. Referring to Rick's book, we got off at Baden-Baden and just made it to a hotel before they shut the doors. After 2 1/2 weeks of travel and a terrible day, we were tired, cranky, and ready to kill each other. The next day we had time to kill, so on a lark we decided to hit the Caracalla Therme. Those few hours gave us the strength to go another week! The pools, the water jets, the saunas...it has to be experienced to be believed. Also, please, please, just shed your inhibitions and go up to the saunas...co-ed nudity will be one of the highlights of your trip. After you see the mix of ages and body types, you will not feel self conscious or embarassed. I now will go out of my way to go to a spa.
Paul
USA  Fri 01/24/2003


Transylvania Retro Youth Hostel
I just returned from a few weeks trip in Romania. I have to share with you some things regarding Transylvania, the most beautifull area in entire Romania. Go to Maramures , to Apuseni Mountains – where I walked hours and hours through forests, meeting no human beings ! My travel base was at Retro Hostel in Cluj-Napoca, a great hostel owned by a very nice Romanian couple. They are located in the historical centre of Cluj and they are very helpful, recommending me lots of cool places where I have been. They are also organising day trips to several destinations close to Cluj. Check their web page at www.retro.ro . If you ll ever stay there , please tell them that Patrick recommed them to you !
Patrick
Lyon, France  Sat 01/18/2003


Ephesus, Turkey.
I was in Ephesus in Turkey on a Sunday morning. The acoustics are great, and all of a sudden,on the steps way below us at the grand Amphitheatre, an American tour leader started reading from St. Paul's letter to the Ephesians; just in a normal voice, but we could hear every word distinctly. It made the hair rise on the back of my neck!!
SJ
Canada  Sat 01/11/2003


Magic Moment: Red Square, Moscow
Entering Red Square took my breath away. All I could do was stare around me in amazement. It was such an emotional experience, that I wept. Thinking of Russian history, and the relationship between our two countries in the last century, was hard to grasp in that sudden instant of actually being there. I'm so happy that I was able to meet, stay with and become friends with ordinary Russian citizens. It makes the world a much smaller place.
Rachel
Hopkins, MN   USA  Thu 01/09/2003


Bala, Wales
Visiting the house my ancestors lived in before migrating to the US in 1698...the current owners speak Welsh as a first language, just like my ancestors did...what a feeling.
USA  Tue 01/07/2003


Indulge in the spas
Every weary traveler in Germany should visit the spas in Baden-Baden Germany. At the Roman-Irish Bath (Friedrichsbad) where you will have a "mentally cleansing experience" besides a physical cleansing. As Rick says in the book, don't miss the sleeping room at the end. I believe it will be the most serene 30 minutes of your life, it was for me. Also visit the Caracalla Therme. If you go in the summer you'll have fun outside in the fountains, and the pool with a current! Inside the building you'll find a staircase to a second level. Make sure you've removed all your clothing before entering, it's required! Test out your ability to withstand extreme temperatures in the various steam rooms. Come out and cool off with a bucket of water dumped on you. Each one has different sounds, visual effects, scents, and temperatures. If you're tough like the locals, you'll take the cold plunge. Grab a towel before heading upstairs, you don't want to burn your heine!
Amy
Arlington Heights, IL   USA  Tue 01/07/2003