Savory Spain & Portugal: 2000-2004
When you take your tongue out sightseeing in Spain and Portugal, what are its favorite taste treats?
Eating in Granada
A local shop owner recommended the restaurant named Oliver. It is located in the Rimblas and the food & service were outstanding! We shared paella, which is prepared after you order it, and my son had swordfish. It was our most enjoyable meal during our 3 weeks of travel.
Kathleen <email>
San Diego , CA USA 12/04/03
Northwest Spanish pizza
If you find yourself in a medium sized town in northwest Spain and they're
offering their local version of "pizza," try it. It usually consists of
thin, fresh dough, thick with Mozzarella or at least a mozzarella-type cheese,
drizzled with olive oil. Wash it down with cold Galician beer: delicious!
John P.
OR USA 11/21/03
Unusual Portuguese Cuisine
When in Northern Portugal, try a pork and bread sausage called "alhedas":
very strong smoked flavor, served with fried eggs. This is not elegant dinning,
but very typical and very different; also quite delicious!
Believe it or not, Portugal is a great place for Chinese food! This comes from the influence of its former colony in China: Macao. The fare is not too different than what you might find here in the US, but the quality is always excellent. I've never had anything but the best Chinese food in Lisbon and Porto.
By the way, Portugal is still a great bargain in Europe! You can get
an easy, quick, typical, and good tasting lunch or dinner for $5-$10 -
and that includes wine!
Paul <email>
Elk Grove , CA USA 10/21/03
Salema area & Lisbon
Just returned from our seventh visit to Portugal; we've found some great
new restaurants in the Salema area. O Tiago in nearby Budens serves a tray
with a very hot rock used to cook your own shrimp and steak. Vila Velha
in Sagres is excellent for curried shrimp and an unusual raspberry dessert.
Also, Papo Cheio Restaurant in Lisbon near the airport is run by a fellow
who worked in the US and loves to entertain Americans.
Peter & Gretchen <email>
Madison, WI USA 09/19/03
Tapas Bars
Tapas bars were definitely THE highlight of our 3-week Spain trip. Thanks,
Rick! Our favorites: Bodega Castaneda in Granada, Bodega Sta Cruz in Sevilla,
Bodega del Socorro (in Pza Socorro) in Ronda. For taste explosions, try
melt-in-your-mouth jamon iberico, delectable manchego, queso fresco, great
selection of montaditos (tiny sandwiches). When unsure, ask the bar guy: "que recomienda?" He was always happy to tell us his favorites-just avoid
anything w/morcillo(blood sausage). We tried to find bars with few tourists
as much as possible, and always stood at the bar for best view of the action.
It's also a great place to start up conversations with the locals--who are
also happy to share tapa recommendations. The best part is when you get
'la cuenta'. In Bodega Sta Cruz, 4 drinks + 4 tapa dishes = 12 Euros(w/
tip). Can't beat that!
Gee & Stan <email>
Irvine, CA USA 08/08/03
Barcelona Chillies
I am in barcelona and if you come here, you have to try these chillies called
pimientos de padron. they are red chillies they use as tapas, they stuff
them with fish, yummy. i wonder if i can get these in the states?
luis <email>
inglewood, ca USA 07/27/03
La cream canela
great restaraunt in Barcelona called La Crema Canela - some options for
vegetarians and non meat fans!
jane <email>
detroit, mi USA 07/12/03
Good eats in Segovia
We found a wonderful little restaurant in Segovia - Portobello's. A great,
inexpensive menu del dia for lunch - sopa castellana (delicious, and WAY
more than I could even eat), broiled salmon with asparagus (excellent, generous
portion size), and a dessert of choice (we had flan) was only around 10
Euros with a glass of house wine. Great service, and located just off the
Plaza Mayor. One of the best lunches we had in Spain!
Nicole
Jackson, MS USA 06/03/03
Great Steak in Madrid
Want a good steak in Madrid? Go to Casa Paco and you won't be disappointed.
It was recommended by a good friend of ours who is a native of Madrid. It
was so incredibly good that we ate there two nights in a row!
Jennie B. <email>
Lancaster, PA USA 05/22/03
Paella in Madrid & Tarifa
just returned from spain & portugal. had fabulous paella in Madrid and Tarifa.
In Madrid at La Baraca on C. Reina 29 (1 block N of Gran Via) In Tarifa
at Morilla (half a block from Cafe central). Don't eat paella in restaurants
advertising cheap paella (its frozen stuff) we tried it in Nerja and were
totally diappointed. The above choices were not cheap especially Madrid
(71 E for 2 with wine and desert) but well worth it!! PS. also had fabulous
cataplana (fish stew) at the Mira Mar in Salema (3 hour lunch with wine
and sun....great!!)
Werner
Vancouver, CANADA 05/20/03
great veggie place in Barcelona
My boyfriend and I are not big ham eaters. Which could be a problem if you're
traveling in Spain. If you're not a big meat eater, L'Atzavara on carrer
de muntaner 109 (metro: universitat) is a God send. It's several blocks
north of the Ramblas in Barcelona. We had lovely prix fixe lunch at L'Atzavara
for the insanely low price of 8-10 Euros. The prix fixe lunch includes an
appetizer, main course and dessert! And there's a nice selection to choose
from too. The food was amazing and the price was such a bargain. You'd think
they'd have such low prices at a fast food joint rather than a sit down
restaurant with table cloths and nice lighting!
karen <email>
new york, ny USA 03/29/03
Basque tapas in Barcelona
We had a terrific time eating pinxtos, Basque tapas, at a place called Sagadi
on carrer del Argenteria and basea (nearest metro: jaume). The tapas were
reasonably priced at 1.10 Euro/pinxto and they had a variety of unusual
things, like little pieces of herring on a toothpick garnished with pickled
string beans. Everything is displayed on platters with little toothpicks
and you just help yourself, so there isn't the intimidation of fumbling
through any foreign tongues. Just grab what you like and they count your
toothpicks when you are done.
When we were there, we noticed a lot of locals requesting drinks from this huge barrel. When the staff "pours" the tap, the liquid dramatically shoots out of the barrel into the cup. Intrigued by this drink, we asked in our poor Spanish what the drink was, and our waiter told us, it was called "Sidra" an "apple wine." And the waiter was even kind enough to give us a free sample of the Sidra which was actually more than a sample, but an entire cup! It was delicious! Our waiter was very helpful in further answering our questions about pinxtos and Basque culture. He also taught us how to say "Very good" in Euskara, which we've of course since forgotten!
Anyway, if you visit Barcelona, make sure you get your pinxtos at Sagadi
and make sure you order a glass of sidra with it too!
Karen <email>
new york, ny USA 03/29/03
Great Spanish food
In Valencia, go to the beach and enjoy a nice seafood paella. Beware, "Paella
Valenciana" is not what many Americans expect: it is chicken and rabbit
meat only (and delicious!).
In Madrid, you must try the Cocido Madrileno It is stewed/boiled meat
simmered over a long period of time. Be sure to ask for the soup of the
cocido to start (the broth from the cocido pot). Jamon Iberico is also
excellent. It must meet certain requirements such as the species, its
nutrition, and its living environment (i.e., being allowed to roam). If
it ain't got no hoof, it ain't no good.
USA 02/22/03
food
We stayed in Cascais at Hotel Baia and ate several meals at the hotel -
I would recommend it - we typically had the fish of the day or one of the
specials. We also went to the Algarve on our trip. In general we thought
the various fish we had was very good, also the grilled chicken and octopus
grilled or in salads. Also we thought the meals were a great value too.
-- finally - the breakfast pastries in all the little cafes are the best
in the world -- i am a donut eater and these portugese donuts and pastries
were excellent
USA 12/03/02
Restaurant recommendations
We just returned from a four week Spain and Portugal trip. We thought the
best food was in Andalucia, especially Sevilla. Our favorite tapas bar was
Las Teresas in the Santa Cruz neighborhood. The menu is in Spanish and you
can't point to much of the best stuff, so bring your phrase book. This was
a very atmospheric place filled with locals mostly. We even saw flamenco
performers from Los Gallos there. The food and wine were outstanding and
quite inexpensive. We can also recommend the restaurant at the Parador in
Ronda. The setting is somewhat like a Holiday Inn restaurant, but the food
is gourmet quality. Although it was expensive by Andalusian standards, we
thought that similar food and wine in an American city would cost twice
what we paid.
C and N
Portland, OR USA 10/08/02
Spanish food
We loved just about every meal we had in Spain. At night, we ate tapas about
8:30 which seemed to satisfy our needs and still stay with the Spanish customs.
One of our most memorable meals was at the Cafe` de Oriente at the Plaza
de Oriente across from the Palacio Real. The tapas were exceptional, the
setting magic with the lights, the people watching great (especially when
the Opera was over) and we even had music from a classical guitarist. All
for under 50E for three of us-with two pitchers of Sangria. So perfect we
did it again on our return to Madrid before our flight. Rick's book was
a great help-especially in prioritizing sights. Just a little off on directions
sometimes.
Kate <email>
Moorestown, NJ USA 08/13/02
Restaurants
Here are some of the highlights of my reunion trip to Portugal. In Belem,
by all means go to the Casa Pasteis de Belem. Order bolos, sprinkle the
powdered sugar on top. I love the galoas. My husband drank the bicas. Lovely
little restaurants on Rua de Belem. I also recommend walking the Alfama
and ducking into one of the sweet little restaurants and order from the
list of pratas do dias. During the reunion we ate at wonderful establishments...Chaby
in Mem Martins. Ribamar in Sesimbra. Visconde da Luz in Cascais. And of
course the palace in Sintra.
Eve Dorf <email>
Fai Oaks, CA USA 07/27/02
Extras
When in Portugal, eat the bread. And cheese. Pate. Olives. Deep fried green
beans. The most we paid for these extras were 2.50 Euros. It is an insult
to not taste these delicous extras. Even the 'surprises' offered us didn't
make the bill much larger, and we enjoyed the fresh figs with proscuitto,
and the cognac and port. Would we have ordered these? Maybe not. But, we
were their guests. And we accepted. That is being a good ambassador.
Eve Dorf <email>
Fair Oaks, CA USA 07/26/02
acetunas (olives) and other interesting Spanish foods
I really enjoyed my vacation in Spain and had many interesting foods. First
every meal is preceded with a saucer full of green olives with the pits
still in them. Their gazpacho is seasoned just right but you can add croutons,
cucumber, onion and tomato to your taste. Iberian ham is not the same as
ours, if you want the American version you will have to ask for "Jamon de
York". Don't miss the Sangria. It's like a fruit punch mixed with wine and
has bits of diced lemon peel floating at the top. It's very delicious. In
Andalucia, chocos does not have anything to do with chocolate, but it actually
is the local term for squid. Tocino de cielo is made out of egg-whites,
whereas the yolks are used to remove sediment from sherry. The Tocino de
Cielo is similar in flavor to flan. Always know the difference between a
"tapa" and a "racion", since the latter is about twice the size of the former,
or more. Josh
Josh Hanz <email>
Foster City, CA USA 06/09/02
taste treats
Croquetas, accompanied by sidra in Asturias, Spain are my favorite.
melissa diaz <email>
pinole, ca USA 05/21/02
Sweet Treats in Spain
A year ago this time last year I had the extreme pleasure of visiting beautiful
Spain, sampling much of it's delicious and quaint cuisine. One of the most
delicious and charming food finds I discovered were at the many convents
which make and sell yummy sweet confections. I particularly enjoyed my discoveries
along the narrow, winding cobblestone streets of historic and beautiful
Toledo. Choose your confection--wonderful marzipan or a selection of delectable
galletas (cookies). And as Rick Steves described in his diary from the road
recently, place your money on a turntable encased in a wall, behind which
a nun fills your order, placing your sweets on the turntable and rotating
it back to you; a very old world vending machine! Very charming and delicious
indeed, one of my favorite and most delicious travel experiences ever.
Diane
San Jose, CA USA 05/07/02
tortilla española
Bocadillos de Tortilla Española are hands down the best food in Spain for
hungry, poor college students. Most cost around €1.50 and are a satisfying
meal. (they consist of an omlette-type thing with eggs, potatoes and onions
on a baguette. yum) a great option for vegetarians.
Zandra
san jose, CA USA 02/17/02
Cordero asado
I am amazed that no one here has raved about cordero asado. It just might
be the best leg of lamb in the world. The best I have had was in the village
of Sepulveda, about 80 miles north of Madrid. It is worth the drive. Cordero
asado is a speciality of this region but THE place to try it is El Figón
de Ismael at Lope Tablada de Diego, 2 in Sepulveda. The meat is unbelievably
tender, still on the bone and served family style in the pan in which it
was roasted. Even King Juan Carlos has eaten here and the restaurant is
quite popular with Madridleños for a weekend getaway.
Dave <email>
Pysht, WA USA 11/30/01
Vegetarian Style
Being a vegetarian in Europe, I felt very protein deprived after a couple
weeks. However, when in Spain, you can get Horchata. It's similar to soy
milk, but it's a different taste--a little sweeter. In the mornings, I kicked
the day off with a nice tall glass of horchata, a cup of hot chocolate (like
hot chocolate pudding) and churros. You can find all this at the corner
sandwich shop-type place.... YUM!
Emily Claire <email>
Edmonds, WA USA 11/25/01
Seville -- Hole in the Wall Find
In Seville, a hole in the wall find is Bar Mariscal III in the Juderia,
near Plaza Cruces. Run by two women (the only women we saw behind the bar
at tapas bars), and the espinaca con garbanzos (spinach with garbanzos)
there was the best! They went out of their way to make us feel at home.
A great local feeling hang-out place -- try it.
Rebecca Tillet <email>
New York, NY USA 11/07/01
Spanish Wines
Make sure to learn about and enjoy the sparkling wines of the Catalan region.
They are usually pretty easy to get back home, too, and wonderful to introduce
friends to back home as well.
Tori <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 10/06/01
If in Sintra, Portugal (20 mi. from Lisbon) make sure you stop and
eat at Tulhas Bar & Restaurant....you will NOT be disappointed! Wonderful
veal and garlic prawns...also prawns on a spit and make sure you try the
cheesecake with raspberry sauce! Top off your dinner with a Tawny Port....prices
are wonderful...four of us ate everything from appetizers to dessert and
after dinner drinks and it was less than $60.
LJ <email>
Virginia, VA USA 07/14/01
In Barcelona "pinxos" are the greatest snack: slices of bread piled
high with tuna, tomatoes and anchovies, potato and egg pie, jamon and
tomatoes, black sausage. You can point to what you want; they'll put it
on a plate for you. Since each piece of bread has a toothpick, you pay
for the number of toothpicks you leave on your plate (be honest). A great
lunch or snack to tide you over until 10 o'clock dinner.
marjorie <email>
USA 10/29/00
The best tapas we had in Spain were in Granada, at the "Plaza Mayor"
restaurant, across from the statue of Isabella. These guys had several
plates set up for the night. I had 4 and could not eat anymore...or dinner!
I ate a great soup/stew there too. (It was the regional dish of Anadalusia,
but the name escapes me.) People were super friendly.
rog <email>
Olympia, WA USA 09/14/00
I'm extremely fortunate to be married to a madrileno and we travel there
often. When in Spain, try the boquerones, anchovies marinated in vinegar
or deep-fried with lemon wedges. No fishy taste--they are wonderful. The
Piquillos (Spanish red peppers) stuffed with tuna or other fish are also
out of this world. And who said you cannot find fresh vegetables in Spain;
they have the best-tasting tomatoes I have have ever had! And the cafe
con leche cannot be duplicated back in the States; I've tried in vain
to get it right and can't! Buen provecho!
Lisa Duque <email>
San Diego, CA USA 08/16/00
The food in Spain is wonderful. For people who like to nibble, having
tapas as your evening meal is great. Ate fish soup and pulpo (octopus)
in Torremolinos, gazpacho in Granada, bull steak (super tender!) in Madrid.
Really liked the Meson Las Murales, a traditional taverna in Madrid. Also
the Meson del Champignon situated in the outer wall of the Plaza Mayor.
They specialize in baked mushrooms. La Mallorquina, a cafe, bakery and
confectionery shop on the Puerta del Sol was my favorite place to watch
the locals of Madrid have their cafe con leche and sweet pastries in the
morning. Don't think you can't get vegetables in Spain, because I had
some good salads as well as white & green asparagus. Bon Appetit!
Joanna
San Francisco, CA USA 06/09/00
- The jamon serrano in Seville for everyday sandwiches.
- Paella anywhere in Marbella.
- Quality steaks in Granada.
- Any family-run Basque restaurant food in San Sebastian.
- And all that FANTASTIC vino tinto (red wine). So cheap.
Spaniards KNOW how to run a deli. The salcichon, chorizo and other delicacies
are wonderful. Alas, nothing even comes close in Portland, OR.
jim <email>
Beaverton, OR USA 06/06/00
One of the most neglected foods is the Spanish tortilla. Not ot be confused
with "tortillas" as we know them in the US, Spanish tortilla is an egg-lovers
delight. Kinda like an omelette, but edible even in sandwich form, this
Spanish delicacy is well worth a try (and it beats eating ham all the
time). Buen provecho!
Ray Cox <email>
Dallas, TX USA 03/12/00
Just recently took a trip to Spain. The food was delicious and don't let anyone convince you otherwise. A few of my favorite restaurants:
- In Zahara, a wonderful hotel restaurant called Zahara de la Sierra
at the top of town with a magnificent view. Try the sizzling shrimp in
garlic oil!
- In Arcos de la Frontera, The Alcaravan, a tasty tapas place located
in the dungeon of a castle. Secondly, for a delicious splurge, Restaurante
El Convento.
- In Toledo try Mille Grazie for fresh pasta and an out-of-this-world
tiramisu!
- In Madrid, The Restaurante Puerto Rico was delicious. Take cash with
you, they don't accept credit. Try the swordfish! Also the Artemisa II
had wonderful vegetarian in a smoke-free enviroment. Enjoy!
Jennifer
Portland, OR USA 01/10/00