Savory Spain & Portugal: 2005
When you take your tongue out sightseeing in Spain and Portugal, what are its favorite taste treats?
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Great Resturants in Sevilla
Returant Miguel Angel Ground floor of the Hotel Occidental, Avida Kabsas City(near Train Station) A litte expensive for lunch BUT worth it. Great place to escape the mid day summer heat. La Taberna Cibetis 1 La Triana, had GREAT little neck clams. It is right on the river which adds to its ambience. Try it after 10pm.
Burt Gitlin
North Bergen, NJ USA Mon 12/12/2005
El Pino Rest.- Marbella
On the Costa del Sol near Marbella, at about exit 94, just across (north) the highway from the Marriott Marbella is the "Pino" Restaurant owned by Massimo and his wife. Massimo is a young entreprener who worked for one of the major cruise lines for several years and is very customer oriented. The menu suggestions he made for us were delicious. The house wine was excellent and the prices were very reasonable.
USA Fri 11/11/2005
Costa del Sol
The Red Pepper restaurant in Puerto Banus (near Marbella) is excellent. We met the owner Christos, who along with his wonderful staff, made our whole evening very special. From the special appetizers prepared by the owner to the "suckling pig" with crackling skin, we had a wonderful time in this very special yaght harbor. It was entertaining to just walk down the piers looking at the boats and enjoying a glass of wine (or two) while watching a beautiful Costa del Sol sunset.
USA Sun 11/06/2005
Bar Electricidad - Barcelona
When in Barcelona, take the subway over to Barceloneta and stop at the Bar Electricidad (recommended in Rick's book). Rick aptly described the vermut as "candy from heaven," and the red wine is soooo easy to drink - and so cheap! We stood at the bar, had several glasses of wine, a plate of manchego cheese, and a delicious seafood salad! This all while talking to the bartender in Spanish (it may have been the wine, but communication got easier after the first couple of glasses!). We even took a couple of liters of wine with us - in a plastic drink container! - to enjoy with our lunch on the train ride the next day!
Calvin
Findlay, OH USA Thu 11/03/2005
Evora Restaraunt
Unfortunately, I do not like seafood... so a two-week stint in southern portugal was, by some, "wasted." I heartily disagree. I LOVED all food. What the Portuguese can do with pork is amazing. I miss the food immensely... particularly the Presunto Ruffles! The pasteries were fantastic. I made it a mission to find out which town had the best Pastis do Nata... stopping in several different cafes daily in every town.
If you go to Evora, I must insist that you go to 4a Feira. My husband and I stopped into this small and homey restaraunt and were greeted by non-english speaking owner. He only asked us two questions about our meal: did we want wine, and was the meal good?
He did not offer a menu, nor did we ask. He brought out baked cheese, bread, cured meats and the best olives ever. This was only the start. He then presented our entrees, telling us which dish was for whom. Even after dessert, he was pouring us shots of two tasty liqours.. one kind for me, the other for my husband. We praised him so much, he gave us a bottle of his especially made wine to take home.
We also dined at the upscale Fialho, (reservations recommended on a weekday in march) but really.. GO TO TABERNA TIPICA QUARTA-FEIRA!!
Jenny <email>
Tacoma, wa USA Sat 10/29/2005
SEAFOOD in LISBON
In fact it is , take your tongue out for a tasterride in PORTUGAl.
Just acroos the river from LISBON (TAGUS) you have CACILHAS a river port with delicious fresh SEAFOOD after then you can do some sightseeing, probably the best sight of LISBON
Al <email>
Lisbon, PORTUGAL Thu 10/27/2005
Madrid Tapas Tour
I just recently returned from Spain. I had one night in Madrid on my own and was lucky enough to find a new company called Adventurous Appetites run by two Brits now living in Madrid. James was my tour guide. The group included myself and a couple from England. James took us to many places that I would not have been able to find on my own. All of the food and drink was excellent and James was a very knowledgeable tour guide. I would highly recommend their tours. www.adventurousappetites.com
Aimee
Houston, TX USA Tue 10/25/2005
Tapas in Barcelona
I disagree with comments about "Celler de Tapas". I´ve travelled to Barcelona for many years and can say that it´s a total rip off of "Taller de Tapas", which opened well before them and is much better. You´ll have a much more fun and better food in the original!
julia
USA Tue 10/25/2005
wine
Spent a few days in Madrid this April.Enjoyed the tapas bars very much and the house wine thats was served from a keg.It was a sweet red wine and I was wondering if anybody knows the name of this wine and can it be had here in the U.S.?
Harvey Klinger <email>
Philadelphia, Pa USA Sat 10/15/2005
Nerja,Costa Del Sol,Spain
We just returned from spending 17 days in Spain. Our favourite place to eat was at Ayo's on Playa Barrianna. I read about Ayo's on Rick's website under Spain Guidebook Update. We tried a lot of paella while we were in Spain but Ayo's was by far the best.The cost was 5E for all you can eat paella.The prawns in the paella were huge and very tasty. Would definitely recommend trying Ayo's if you are in Nerja. Find your way to Playa Barrianna and Ayo's is right on the beach.
Shona <email>
Oshawa, ON Canada Tue 10/11/2005
Tenerife / Canaries food trip
Being a bit of a foodie, I was looking forward to eating out in Tenerife, as I had heard it has some interesting twists on Spanish food, and some good international restaurants to boot. However, the 'good' Canarian restaurants were all dreadful, and to be frank, the best places to eat for good local food were the little hole-in-the-wall style bar restaurate that the locals eat at. Carne con papas, garbanzos and mojo were tasty in these places, but awful anywhere else. The only place worth mentioning when it comes to 'international' food is Los Roques in Los Abrigos. We found it just by walking past - frankly the fish restaurants there, which are supposed to be the attraction, didn't look up to much. The food, service and ambiance at Los Roques were all second to none however, and they easily match good to excellent restaurants I've eaten in in places like New York and London. Worth the trip just for that one restaurant! (and the papas bonitas)
David
NY, NY USA Sun 10/09/2005
Madrid Dinning
An older post says that "La Oreja de Oro" was out of business. They must've since re-opened. Not a "classy" place, but a very local dive on Calle de la Victoria for great tapas. Try the champiñones de la casa (mushrooms), pemientos del padrón (pan seared sweet peppers), or the sardines. All terrific!
Los Galayos on the Plaza Mayor has a great menu del dia - excellent food & service for the price!
Will
Atlanta, GA USA Mon 10/03/2005
Dining in Spain
My sister, brother-in-law, and I ate at the "Cuina Mediterrania" in Tortosa, Spain, and had a great meal. I had the couscous - raisin with beef. My sister had tagine chicken, and my brother-in-law had kabobs - lamb. All were reasonably priced and delicious! Ahmed, the owner, was very friendly and delighted that we liked his cooking. We had a wonderful green/mint tea after the meal. Email me for his address or phone number.
Dianne <email>
Renton, WA USA Wed 09/28/2005
OLE SEVILLA GOURMET TAPAS TOUR!
OLE SEVILLA SPAIN GOURMET TAPAS TOUR! My husband and I are food, wine & music lovers and enjoyed Spain a lot! Highlight was our foodie tour discovering non-touristy places, learning about making of tapas, glasses of Reserva Rioja wine at 3 euros with gourmet tapas in Seville / Sevilla.The REALLY good places are not so easy to find but we did a private tour with US expat Dan O'Bryne, who is recommended by Rick was tasty, educational and fun!!!!!!!! He does 2 hour Secrets of Seville tours + a private tasting of wine on a historic 500 year old Sevillano patio with fountain to start + EDUCATION handouts and recipes + recommendations for places to eat around Spain. Price for 2 was 89 euros for his expertise and time. After the tasting you pay your own wine and tapas for 2 or 3 stops. he also has other tours of Seville Medival Legends, Seville Patios and Seville Dance + day trips to Cordoba & hiking. Best to book ahead as charming Dan is a busy guy. try www.magicalspain.com ADIOS y OLE ESPANA!
Brandy & Lucien Giardino
NYC, NY USA Mon 09/26/2005
Vegetarian meals, SW Alentejo Portugal
I experienced that there are very few vegetarian restaurants in Southern Portugal. At Monte Corgo do Pardieiro (near Odemira) you can * on appointment * enjoy a very good vegetarian meal at a reasonable price (E 10 - 15 for a 3-course dinner). See their website http://www.alentejo.nl/eng/delicious_and_vegetarian.html .
Huub Schuurmans
Leiden, Netherlands Wed 08/10/2005
Les Quince Nits = Jerks
Les Quince Nits in Barcelona's Plaza Real used to be a fantastic restaurant, which is why they always have a line out the door. Unfortunately, the service, food, and ambiance have suffered. You will be disappointed.
Frieda
Naples, FL USA Tue 07/26/2005
There's nothing savory about food poisoning!
If you are traveling to Spain, please be wary of the Spanish rendition of fast food, Pans & Company. They are like the Subway of Spain. I contracted food poisoning from a sandwich I ate there and was nearly hospitalized in Barcelona. The sanitary conditions abroad are less stringent in some countries and I should have paid closer attention to them. Avoid Pans and avoid an 8 hour date with the bathroom~
Katina
Evanston, IL USA Tue 07/26/2005
Madrid restaurant
I highly recommend "La Finca de Susana" for a great place to eat in Madrid. It is an easy walk from Puerta del Sol. The wait on a Saturday night can be long, but well worth it. We ate their twice. I am a vegetarian, and they had lots of options. We had a bottle of great wine and a three course meal (including two desserts) for about 30 euro. The restuarant has a great atmosphere and the service was great.
Felicia
Washington, DC USA Thu 07/21/2005
Toledo Treat - El Botero Location
El Botero is just around the corner from one of Rick's favorite Hotels, Hotel Santa Isabel and up the road from Rest. Casa Aurelio II. The address is Calle de la Ciudad 5, 45001 Toledo. On Rick's map (page 238, "Rick Steve's Spain 2005) walk from #5 towards #10. When you have #10 on your right and you are facing towards the cathederal, turn about face and walk up Calle de la Ciudad about 30 yards and you'll find it on your left hand side.
Note that Frederik hasn't quite got his website up and isn't one for e-mail. Regardless, go on in and enjoy a most amazing treat. For wine lovers, this is a must. For families, there's plenty of refrescos for the children unlike Taverna De Amboades (Miguel's equally a wine nut, but forbids anything other than wine or water in his restaurant - must be down to his former life as a Jesuit priest?). Enjoy El Botero!
Philip <email>
London, UK Fri 07/08/2005
Toledo Treat - El Botero
El Botero Taberna Lounge specializes in unique tapas (listed under "salads" but they're a mix of hot and cold dishes from 3 to 12 euros - try the marzapan popsicles for real dessert treat!) and amazing boutique Spanish wines (Tues-Sat, 12.00-17.00, 19.00-24.00, Sun 19.00-24.00, closed Mondays and closed in August). Frederik is Dutch, born in Columbia, speaks 7 languages fluently (plus some Danish and Flemish) and is an 18 year resident of Toledo. His wine cellar is located in a 1000 year old cistern that used to provide water to the area until 1945. He has special arrangements with unique Spanish wineries you'll never find in North America (glasses range from 1.4-2.8 euros, bottles around 10-15). With over 3600 grapes in the world to try, Frederik said that pinot noirs, cabernet's and chardonnays are too limiting. Expand your palette with Frederik's expertise. Frederik is also an amazing painter and you'll find his work throughout the restaurant (http://www.tabernaelbotero.com, info@tabernaelbotero.com, T: 011-34-925-229-088).
Philip <email>
London, UK Fri 07/08/2005
LeTango Culinary Tour, Madrid
If you are in Madrid and are into food, YOU MUST take the Madrid Culinary Tour offered by LeTango (mentioned in the Spain and Portugal 2005 book www.letango.com) My husband and I are in our 30s and are not "tour people" per se, but our guide was Carlos Galvin, who is seen on the recent Rick Steves Europe episodes with Rick, and he is EXCELLENT. It was just the three of us, and we felt like Carlos was more of an old friend than a tour guide. He speaks perfect English and has wonderful knowledge and a strong passion for Spain, Spanish traditions, and its culinary products. We started by going to several gourmet shops where he explained the various types of olives, ham, seafood, etc- so fascinating. We then went to three tapas bars to sample local specialties (food and drink included in tour cost) By the end we both agreed this was a highlight not only of Madrid, but of our entire trip to Spain. My husband kept saying he wished we had a "Carlos" in every city we visited. Again, if you are into food and wine, or just want to experience Madrid on a more intimate level through the eyes of a local, this tour is for you!!!
Kelley Malay
LaGrange, IL USA Fri 07/01/2005
Tapas in Granada, Spain
Granada, since it is a smaller city, tends to be overlooked as a tourist destination, but it has it?s definite perks. I?ve been studying here for a while and have come to love the tapas here because they?re good and FREE. At most places after a certain time (usually around 7 or 8pm) you can order a drink (beer, wine or soda) and you will recieve free snacks that tend to be filling enough to substitute for a small meal. You can expect to pay about 1,50 to 2 euros per drink and then enjoy the food. My favorite tapas cafes and bars are located a little off the beaten path near Plaza Einstein (one block east of Calle Rondas) but there are other good ones Near Plaza Nueva (Walk east from the intersection of Calle Reyes Catolicos and Calle Gran Via de Colon). The possibilities are endless! My advice is to walk by a number of places and peek at the tapas being served to others. If something looks good, take a seat and give it a go!
Korie Ann Treven
Libertyville, IL USA Wed 06/08/2005
Nicola Cafe Lisbon
I skipped the main Nicola cafe in Lisbon because the Rossio square is dirty and grubby. Right outside the cafe there are your most deformed beggars. It's sad but you lose your appetite as well. We escaped to The Hard Rock Cafe. The famous Belem pastry shop in Belem is very nice, opt for that one.
Marie
Verona, NJ USA Wed 06/01/2005
Summer in Spain
I studied at the Universidad de Salamanca last summer. I would recommend spending some time sitting in the plaza mayor especially at night when it cools off and all the people come out. The leche helado ( milk ice-cream ) with cinnamon sprinkled on top, or the enjoying vino tinto with tapas are to die for as well.
Also, in the summer Sangria is very popular along with a drink they make called Kalimocho which is red wine and coke, or the beer called Mau is very popular and some people even mix it with Seltzer water too.
Basically if you go to Spain try the different foods and keep and open mind because it will knock you off your feet because it's nothing like American food! Enjoy!
Clare <email>
Oshkosh, WI USA Wed 05/25/2005
Cordoba - good cheap eats
Cordoba: good, cheap eats: Ole Kebab is about a block or 2 east of the Mezquita - very good, cheap food
craig reeder <email>
USA Tue 05/17/2005
Disgusting restaurant Vila Velha
Suffered from food poisening twice in the Algarve. Complained to the tourism office but never got an answer. Asked for grilled fish at a restaurant in Sagres and was served a big fish head fried (!) with eyes and teeth and looking disgusting. Complained and they said it wasn't fried, it was "au meuni?re" (haha, bad joke). I am portuguese so I know this is not done in Portugal. Despite not having eaten it, they made me pay around 45$ only for that plate. Avoid, at all cost, this awfull restaurant and it's decadent pseudo-french cuisine.
Cinanina <email>
Lisbon, portugal Tue 05/10/2005
Portuguese Cuisine??
My husband and I lived in Portugal for 6 months just last year. I must admit the food at the restaurants and cafes are very...challenging, being spoiled in America. Almost everything is very salty and hard to find any meal come with decent vegetables. They also love hotdog links that tasted very strange. I don't mean to nag their food. The seafood meals are delicious. Fresh and authentic. Stick with the seafood when you eat out in Portugal. Groceries can be priced as high as the rest of Europe (slightly higher than Spain).
Rika <email>
Seattle, WA USA Tue 05/03/2005
Food
When visiting Rhonda we found a great vegetarian cafe called Relax. The food was creative and delicious. It was located Los Remedios, 27
Barbara Henscheid <email>
Paradise Valley, AZ USA Tue 05/03/2005
Spain
If you are in Seville take a trip with an Australian guy called Paul. He takes you up through the mountains in the Grazalema area to some very pretty villages, good commentary and magnificent scenery
Jack Thomas <email>
New York, NY USA Wed 04/27/2005
Barcelona cooking class and a great tapas place
Just returned from Barcelona. Loved the Catalan cooking class I read about on this site (www.cookandtaste.net). Bega is a friendly and enthusiastic teacher, and she helped us cook a wonderful, authentic meal. Our favorite tapas restaurant was Txapela, near the Placa de Catalunya. Starting at the corner of the square with the big department store El Corte Ingles, walk up the boulevard Passeig de Gracia for about a block. Txapela is next door to the Dunkin Donuts! Sit at the bar and point to what looks good in the glass cases in front of you. There are 51 pictures on your placemat to help you choose, and if you need more explanations, they'll give you the list of English decriptions to match the pictures. Friendly, helpful staff.
Ruth <email>
Konigswinter, Germany Sat 04/23/2005
Food
Just returned from Tenerife ,Canary Islands, Easter 2005. The immaculately clean and spotless family run "TASCA LA RADIO" restaurant and bar situated [diagonally opposite the Sheraton Mencey] on the Rambla del General Franco and Calle Dr Guigou offers a Menu del Dia as well as a la carte. We chose homemade soup or mixed salad,followed by entrecote steak with pepper sauce[steak Diane] and chips[alternative offerings were breast of chicken or squid],a fresh[not tinned] fruit salad AND a bottle of special beer or glass of wine for only 8 euros each. The Sheraton menu del dia was about 30 euros EACH plus cover charge and no drink.. We visited Tasca La Radio 2 days running and only wish we had discovered it before-two blocks away we had paid nearly 30 euros for just 2 x spaghetti with clams,1x clams and 2 x ordinary beer. Tenerife has the highest mountain in Spain,the dormant snowcapped volcano Mt Teide and you can go almost to the top in the cable car then walk the rest of the way.
Suzette
London, UK Thu 03/31/2005
Restaurants in Madrid
Rick already mentions the FRESC SALAD BUFFET is Barcelona, but there are now 2 locations in Madrid around Puerto del Sol. They offer all you can eat salads, pizza, pasta, soup and desert for 8-9 Euros. Since tapas are pricey even at Rick's budget spots, a few meals at FRESC helped keep our food budget down a little.
Sara Keenan <email>
Ben Lomond, CA USA Fri 03/18/2005
Local Tapas Bar
In Summer 2003, we ate at a wonderful "local" tapas bar in Madrid called "La Piconera" at 42 Paseo del Prado across from the Prado. Very inexpensive, but the best tapas we had during our 12 days in Spain! Great wine too! We are returning this summer and plan to visit again. Check it out!
Sherri
Chicago, IL USA Tue 03/15/2005