North Portugal and Galicia tips?
I am planning to include the Douro Valley and Porto and Santiago de Compostela in the next edition of my Spain and Portugal guidebooks. Are these the highlights of the northwest corner of Iberia? Do you have any favorites in this region which others may enjoy that I can check out on my upcoming research trip? Thanks for any help - Rick
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Inland Galicia, the mountains
Having seen lots of advice on this page and other forums we decided to visit Galicia. we was not disappointed either. The area of O Coural together with the Ribeirasacra (the Rivers Mino and Sil) are places we enjoyed the most. Both areas have a natural beauty which is hard to describe in a few words here.
We must say that having also visited the coast and understood it to be similar to Cornwall in England we was very very disappointed.
Jane and Bob
Jane and Bob
Wakefield, UK 07/20/2008
Northern Portugal
I've just returned from northern Portugal and highly recommend that you visit Guimaraes, Braga, and Viana do Castelo. Each one is a back door by itself, and all three can be combined as a day trip from Porto, either by car or by package tour. Both Guimaraes and Braga have downtown historical districts with lovely tiled houses from the nineteenth century. The panorama from the church of Santa Luzia, on a high hill above Viana do Castelo, includes the city, the river, the docks, the beach, and the Atlantic Ocean--not to be missed. All three cities have tourist amenities. Surfers enjoy the beaches of northern Portugal.
For a sidetrip in central Portugal, by all means visit the grounds of the Palace Hotel Bussaco, recommended below. A stunningly beautiful building set on a mountain in a national forest. You may not be able to afford a room or a meal, but pack a picnic and drive there.
Great news for anyone visiting northern Portugal: TAP Portugal now flies three times a week from Newark to Porto, which has a fine new airport. Highly recommended.
David Dooley
San Diego, CA USA 03/31/2008
Northern Portugal
My fiance's family are from Lamego, along the Douro River near Regua. I recommend a visit to the Catholic Shrine of Lamego (Nosa Senora), but avoid their main pilgrimage times- early April and Easter being most popular- you will have trouble getting lodging and the pilgrims will clog up roads and fill up cheap but quality restaurants. I also recommend the Fine Art Museum in Lamego, which has some outstanding medieval furniture and tapestries (not handicapped accessible- however). Finally, a little further along in the Douro Valley is the world's largest site of outdoor Prehistoric art- which can be visited by apointment, as the site is viewed in park ranger driven SUVs- to keep erosion etc at a minimum- tours of the Coa Valley park start early AM, and I believe are in English (I haven't been yet- just done the research). Another great attraction as a daytrip, Roman Ruins just outside Coimbra. And obviously, a trip to a Quinta (winery) with a wine tasting lunch is outstanding and informative- ask the hotel to recommend a local quinta, and call ahead to get you 'neighborly' service- if you call they might charge more and will certainly not haul out their best wine- it's usually for locals only. Rick- I am looking forward to your upcoming edition- we're planning a destination wedding and I would love to get a few copies for my closest invited family and friends to peruse. Can you send e-mail when they are available?
Ella
Boston, MA USA 01/27/2008
Driving to the heart of the Douro
If travelers are driving between the heart of the Douro Valley and Lisbon, they may want to consider the more direct route (At least one way) that goes near Coimbra and Viseu, avoiding the "dogleg" near Porto. It's mostly toll highway now. We found that the "Tourista Real" signs along the main roads in the Douro Valley were great opportunities for views and photos. The Cacho d'Oiro restaurant in Peso de Regua on the main drag just west of where most tourists hang out is a good value. North side of the street with a cluster of grapes featured on the hangin sign. Best red house wine I tasted in 8 days of restaurants. Consider the lamb. Nuno Fonseca was our waiter.
Don Karpen <email>
Talent, OR USA 10/15/2007
Pousadas, Portugal
You must mention the pousadas..There are wonderful special deals...Passport for 4 nights,,2 nights with 2 nights at Pestana Palace with or without car. Senior discounts etc, etc. wonderful accomdations, great places and staff. An outstanding bargin whichever way you choose to experience. We are going in Nov. and looking forward to the trip very much. 2nd time..
Mary Ann May <email>
Calgary, AB Canada 08/26/2007
Sintra + Lisbon Tips
If you plan to visit Sintra I recommend to stay in Pensao Residencial Sintra. Check their website at www.residencialsintra.blogspot.com. Absolutely wonderful place, good breakfast, nice staff, beautiful garden/park and swimming pool, close to the historic center of Sintra. Ask for a renovated room. A little hard to find as so few people in Sintra know about this place. Ask staff for directions. While in Lisbon do not miss Sao Vicente de Fora Monastery (Cale S. Vicente on top of the Alfama not far from Castelo S. Jorge). Very quiet place with a grand view from the roof.
Elena
Houston, Texas USA 08/07/2007
Duoro
The Duoro valley is incredibly beautiful and the vineyards are lovely--much more intimate than the port houses in Gaia. It does require a car to see the quintas as they are far away from each other. They also offer great table wines and olive oils. Quinta de Tedo is a favorite
Sarah
West Orange , NJ USA 06/19/2007
Port lodges in Vila Nova da Gaia
Avoid going to visit a Port lodge in Vila Nova da Gaia in Portugal, between 12 pm and 2 pm for a tour, because they close for lunch. Tours are not possible during this time. Tasting on the other hand can be done most of the day. Some are closed all day on weekends.
Some lodges that were closed for remodeling include Sandeman, and the Cálem which shut down for the day I was there because the lights went out. I was lucky to be able to visit the Croft and the Ferreira lodges for tasting.
It's best to get an early start, about 10 AM in Vila Nova da Gaia. It may take a whole day to spend there. Then have a late lunch at the Cais de Ribeira in Porto.
Josh Hanz <email>
Frisco, TX USA 03/03/2007
North of Spain and of Portugal
Surely the writer who said Coruna "might be a bit much for the novice traveler"was talking tongue-in-cheek. We cannot disagree more about Coruna. We found it a place of fantastic views, excellent transit and the food at local bars was great. It should not be missed.
Our Portugal experience, outside of Lisbon, was at Viana do Castelo. While this is certainly "of the beaten track", thre is no shortage of warmth or welcome.
Paul n Sara <email>
USA 01/27/2007
North Portugal and Galicia
Just got back from a short solo trip to Porto, Santiago, and A Coruna - while I'd highly recommend Santiago, I felt like the other two cities were more or less "things to do while you are in the northern part of the Iberian Peninsula, since you can't spend all your time in SdeC." Don't get me wrong - I was very happy to be able to visit them, but A Coruna and Porto, though easy to travel to via train or plane, feel very much off-the-beaten path and might be a bit much for the novice traveler. English is not readily known - I encountered this more than in any other place in Spain - so knowing the basics is a must and can even get you by in Portugal. Porto, especially - it's easy to get to as ryanair flies to it, and the airport and subway are brand spanking new, but it definitely was a bit more challenging and I saw few tourists there. I like trying to fit in as a local, but there's no trying in Porto - tourists, at least in December, seemed to be a novelty. Who know what will happen in the future, what with ryanair flying to porto and easyjet to A Coruna.
Getting around was difficult without a car. Hostal Costa Vella - which was a dream in Santiago - gives out "info packets on Galicia" which have info on car rentals and which cities nearby to make sure not to miss. I'd suggest checking with them.
Any difficulties aside, Galicia is my favorite part of Spain, and I would definitely recommend it - glad that Rick Steves is going to expand these chapters.
Kristina Yamamoto <email>
Denver, CO USA 01/21/2007
Galicia's innerland - river Sil Canyon
Indeed, I agree that Galicia is not only SdC. What about the river Sil Canyon? Ideal for walking holiday. The landscape around the river's gorge is phantastic. There are many possibilities of doing so called adventure sports or visiting cultural sites since you are in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra area (something like holy riverside, so called because of its numerous romanesque monastries). For accommodation and more tips about the area I can recommend http://www.acasadaeira.com/ingles/. Hope you will like it.
Thomas Neven <email>
Hamburg, Hambur Germany 01/16/2007
Portugal/Spain
I've been to Minho and Galicia several times. Around Braga is very nice. There is a small town called Barcelos. What nice people! Chaves, Vila Real,Guarda and Castelo Branco. The Portuguese lifeless people. They are very depressing but, the landscape is inspritational. In Galicia, Tui, Vigo, and A Coruna. Have Fun!
Teddy Davis <email>
Daly City, CA USA 12/19/2006
Portugal...
Bussaco Forest. We went here on the way to Douro Valley.
It's a popular place for hiking amongst locale Portuguese. It's a splurge place to stay or eat, but it's a beautiful place to enjoy the gardens or do some hiking. The little town of Luso (spa town) looked beautiful. The Bussaco Palace is a hotel that used to be a royal hunting lodge. There is beautiful architecture...and the interior looks like it has period furniture. It's in "1000 Places to See before you die".
I'd also consider Tomar for the Convento De Christo (Knights Templar). I don't know that I'd stay there overnight, but the Convento is beautiful...and really, worth the trip. I think that we day tripped from Obidos.
Here's a wikipedia link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Order_of_Christ_(Portugal)
Stephanie <email>
Columbus, OH USA 11/11/2006
Inner Galica, it is more than the city of SdC
Well a lot of people think about Galicia as being Santiago de Compostela. I can assure you it is not!!!!
Get in that car or travel by bus, just get away from the cliché of Galicia. Visit Lugo with its 2.5 km of completely walled city, which date back to the Roman times. There are loads of other thinks to see within the city walls. For example visit the provincial museum of Lugo. Loads of items to see, including Celtic gold jewellery.
We found out about these secrets and more, by visiting the casa rural (b&b) called Casa Santo Estevo. www.ribeirasacra.com. this house is situated next to the ancient church the ---Santo Estevo de Ribas de Mino. A truly great location and great hosts too.
Joe <email>
Reading, UK 09/01/2006
Visiting A Courna
I just recently visited the city, La Coruña (in Spanish: A Coruña) for the Racewalking World Cup. It was one of the most beautiful and picturesque places to travel to. The city is home to the Tower of Hercules (Torre de Hercules), one of there main attractions. This is one of the oldest, if not the oldest light house from the Roman Empire and provides a gorgeous view. The city has a scenic walk-way all around overlooking the ocean. The people are extremely nice and helpful, as well. It is not a very touristy city, but is definitely one of my most favorite places that I have traveled to.
Lee
USA 06/06/2006
Galicia alternative
We went to Galicia last month and found it a fantastic place to visit. Liked Pontevedra and the castle of Felipe in Ferrol. Didnt rate Lugo that much.
We stayed at a fantastic guesthouse run by an english couple that looked after us very well and the everning meals that we had were excellent.
Try www.casaquireza.com
Anthony C Jones <email>
Leicester, UK 03/28/2006
Do not forget Vienna do Castelo
Vienna do Castelo, Portugal, was Hotel Santa Luzia, now Pousada, nothing like it in the world. We spent our honeymoon there in 1978, went back 15 years later with my mother in law, who had unknown to us spent her honeymoon in the same Hotel. Food was superb. Mae is very stately and just by her presence we are always served well anywhere we went. I would like to see Santiago de Compostela. Thank you.
Marie Alice Sena
both husbands are deceased.
Marie Alice Sena <email>
McLean, VA USA 03/13/2006