Savory Spain & Portugal
When you take your tongue out sightseeing in Spain and Portugal, what are its favorite taste treats?
- Please don't post questions here. Use our Travelers Helpline.
Cordoba restaurant
If you're in Cordoba, try Pizarro Taberna Restaurante, Deanes 10, in the heart of the tourist district, near the cathedral. Definitely a cut above and reasonably priced. A tapa to try are the wonderful puntillitas, tiny fried calamari. And the homemade desserts are great too.
Linda Tracy <email>
Sebastopol, CA USA 10/15/2008
My best tapa in Southern Spain
The best tapa for me? Andalucian eggplant, cut very thin, a little batter, fried and served with "honey," which tastes more like light molasses. We're in Granada for 6 weeks and I have to have a regular fix of berenjenas con miel.
Linda Tracy <email>
Sebastopol, CA USA 10/15/2008
Less expensive food in Ronda, Spain
Eating in Ronda. For a great and less expensive meal in Ronda, to Bar Santa Maria at #40 Arminan (the main street in the old city). The food is excellant, the selections varied and the couple who run it are fun and he speaks good English. Try It!
C. Stewart
Portland, OR USA 09/30/2008
Porto lunch
Porto, went to recommended Oro Viva block off the river. Just as reported, narrow room, nice people and good for a lighter lunch. Had the specials, very good. Still giving free glass of Port (good stuff too) if you show Ricks guide book. Say hi to Antonio.
Andrew DeWitt
Oshkosh, WI USA 09/27/2008
Great Eats in Aveiro Portugal
In your travels in Portugal, if you are in or near Aveiro for the evening, find Barcos it is a great little place. Run by Antonio and his wife does the cooking. Great for fresh seafood.
Andrew DeWitt
Oshkosh, WI USA 09/27/2008
Granada restaurant
I want to strongly recommend the Restaurante Arrayanes in Granada, Spain (and I don't understand why this is not mentioned in Rick's guide?). Absolutely wonderful Andalusian/Morrocan food, terrific service, esp. from the kind owner Mustafa, and an absolutely tranquil and peaceful oasis in the middle of the Albayzin maze. Cuesta Maranas, 4 (Albayzin bajo), telephone, 0034-664-53-98-10, www.rest-arrayanes.com. You will love it!
Emily Goldfarb <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 09/13/2008
Avoid Canto do Camoes In Lisbon
Avoid Canto do Camoes, Fado restaurant in Lisbon.
I have Ricks 2004 Spain Portugal book and think that the owner of this place MUST have changed since Rick wrote about this restaurant. The staff was rude and unwelcoming. The singing was great bit when the bill came, we were charged for many extras that were not even at our table. The bread and butter that was on the table when we arrived was 10 Euro. We were charge forunused pate that was on the table when we arrived and unused cheese that was on the neighboring table. The French group at the next table had the same experince...a bill that should have been 40 Euro was 80 Euro. I have been traveling with Rick Steve`s books for 10 years and this was the worst experince I had at one of his listed venues.
If you want to have a nice night...and not feel like you just got ripped off...please avoid Canto do Camoes.
I hope that Rick is updating his book and takes this into account.
Kat
New York, NY USA 08/24/2008
Lisbon eating
Head to Restaurantores (which is a street with countless restaurants) downtown. There are lots of restaurants which menus in many languages. Ignore these. Find one with the menu written on a paper table cloth. Chose any of the "ementas touristicas" and enjoy your 3 course meal with wine and coffee for about 15 euros.
Michael
Toronto, ON Canada 07/18/2008
Granada Restaurant Recommendation
Rick's guide does not have many restaurants in Granada but we wanted to recommend El Figon de Griana, Pasaje de Recogidas 1, 958 25 03 55 www.elfigondetriana.com. The soccer finals were on and NOTHING was open, nor cabs to take us anywhere. Delicious and reasonably priced, home cooked food. Portions were huge. We had peppers stuffed with seafood and beefstake with pate, plus first courses and wine and desert (for 2) for 35 Euros. Beautifully decorated with antiques and oil paintings.
Mary
Los Angeles, CA USA 07/16/2008
Oxtail soup
The best food in Sevilla/south of Spain is, hands down, Rabo de Toro (oxtail soup). Also goes by Cola de Toro. The meat is sooo tender! Usually found in tapas bars/any sort of bar.
Lindsay B.
Sacramento/Barcelona, CA USA 06/17/2008
I never cared for Spanish cooking
The last time I was in Spain was in 1990. I was there for 3 weeks. I loved Barcelona I didn't care much for Madrid. The one thing that disappointed me the most about Spain was the food. Pork, pork and more pork or it was seafood I never liked, varities like trout, mackarel, sardines, or anchovies. Also every dish was drowning in olive oil or was deep fried. Eating for those three weeks was a chore not a pleasure unlike France where I didn't have to search for fantastic food it was everywhere. I ended up eating at any Italian restaurant I could find. Back then foreign cuisines were very rare other than Italian. From some of the postings the food hasn't improved that much. I still like Spain though.
James Avilez <email>
San Francisco Bay Area, CA USA 06/15/2008
Disappointing Spain
what a disappointment. The food is just terrible. everything is greasy deepfried ham, cheese, and canned tuna. The bathrooms all emitted sewer odours - from indy hostels to international chains. Andalucia itself seemed to have a sewer odour. Ronda is highly overrated, and one white hill town is plenty. I wouldn't go back. Greece is 100% better - hospitality, food, and scenery.
Mari
Vancouver, USA 06/01/2008
accomodations
Hotel Ateneo, a great find in Madrid. Great location, great rooms and very helpful staff. Reasonable price. Paid much more and got much less elsewhere in Spain. For example in Seville the Hotel Europa. Overpriced, tiny twin room with no windows. I am now very leary of any hotel when the words "rooms with character" are used in the description.
robin
grayson county, tx USA 05/08/2008
hotel europa, Madrid
We spent 5 nights at the Hotel Europa the first week in April 2008. While we liked the hotel, bar and outside cafe very much, we could not control the HVAC in the room. It was cool outside so the AC had not yet been turned on but the room was quite warm and needed some air movement. The noise from the square and later the interior courtyard (where we moved to), was too great for a restful sleep. If the AC was on, we could have closed the windows and that would have been much better. We couldn't even turn the HVAC fan on to circulate the air. Also because of the hotel's location, the outside noise was going on well into the wee hours.
Bill & Rose
Dallas, TX USA 04/14/2008
Water in Madrid
I noticed some previous comments on tap water in Madrid.
I´m currently living in Madrid and the tap water here is incredibly clean, cleaner than most tap water in US cities. I know this for a fact, since I tested the tap water for bacteria in a biology class here...it came out cleaner than some of the bottled water...
Jenna
WA USA 04/09/2008
Savory Portugal
Three recommendations for Portugal:
1. For a great if pricy meal in Porto, try Casa Agricola. Elegant surroundings, excellent service, superb food. Some of the best pork I've ever eaten.
2. In Cascais, try Dom Manolo, about a block from the main beach. Grilled chicken is their specialty, and the grilled sardines were also very good.
3. In Porto, do try the wine tasting tour at Ferreira. It's on the main street in Vila Nova da Gaia, easy to find. The white and tawny ports they served were complex and very satisfying. For the same price, Sandeman could not begin to compete.
David Dooley
San Diego, CA USA 03/31/2008
BAR-RESTAURANT BENTOMIZ
WE HAVE JUST RETURNED FROM A HOLIDAY ON THE SOUTHERN COAST OF SPAIN AND ON OUR TRAVELS WE SPENT SOME TIME IN THE MOST PICTURESQUE VILLAGE OF FRIGILIANA(A FEWKILOMETRES INLAND FROM THE COASTAL RESORT OF NERJA).ON THE MAIN STREET OF THE OLD TOWN WE DISCOVERED A LITTLE GEM-THE BAR-RESTAURANT BENTOMIZ.IT IS RUN BY HUSBAND AND WIFE ANNA AND MATTHEW(THE CHEFS)AND THEIR PARTNER ALISON WHO ALISON WHO COMBINES BAR AND FRONT OF HOUSE WITH EQUAL APLOMB.
THE FOOD IS A DELICIOUS BLEND OF INTERNATIONAL AND MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE AND IS ACCOMPANIED BY SOME FINE WINES.THE LUNCHTIME TAPAS WAS FANTASTIC AND WE DECIDED TO TRY THE MAIN MENU IN THE EVENING.THANK GOODNESS WE DID.MOUTHWATERING DISHES AND GREAT SERVICE IN A FRIENDLY AND INTIMATE RESTAURANT.WE CAN GIVE IT NO HIGHER PRAISE THAN TO SAY IT WILL BE THE PLACE WE EAT ON OUR NEXT SOJOURN AT BOTH LUNCTIME AND EVENING.
ADRIAN AND JANET LUCAS,MANCHESTER,ENGLAND
ADRIAN LUCAS <email>
MANCHESTER, ENGLAND 02/15/2008
Spanish Drink recipes
This article has some great drink recipes for Spanish drinks you can make at home. Brings back memories of hot spanish summers and cool Valencia evenings. Agua de Valencia, Sangria and Kalimotxo (calimocho)
http://noambit.typepad.com/my_weblog/2007/12/i-was-sitting-a.html
Matt
Eureka, Ca USA 12/14/2007
Barcelona: Be advised the RENFE train from the airport is currently not in service. Service is being temporarily replaced by a bus service,(free) which will add some time to your commute. ATM at airport would not give me cash, but did charge me for the services. (might want to consider having some Euros in hand when arriving to allow purchase of Metro passes, etc.)Consider a concert at the Palau de la Musica, very reasonable and a beautiful setting. Lunch on the harbor is worth the wait for a table on the boardwalk.
Seville: Skip the Seville pass, unless you are planning to go to the Flamenco museum it may not be cost effective. Flamenco show at Los Gallos(recommended)was outstanding, some of the locals were telling us that they consider it the best in the city. The tours by Concepcion Delgado were outstanding.
Ronda: Good home base for hill towns, lots of restaurants and shops to enjoy, highly recommend the Hotel Alavera de los Banos, is a little tricky to get to, but the setting overlooking a horse farm is worth it, as was the dinner at the hotel.
Granada: Highly recommend including Granada into your trip for the Alhambra, if nothing else. Nice non-smoking restaurant(Nueve) across the street from recommended hotel Navas. Don't miss the chocolate and churros somewhere in town.
Toledo: Not recommended in Rick Steves book, but the Hotel Cigarral de Caravantes. Great views of town, easy to get to
(just across the river) easy walk into town and the restaurant was outstanding, don't miss the El Greco in the Santa Cruz church (our favorite)
Madrid: Great home base for a week long trip. Side trips to Segovia and Toledo etc are doable and the city has plenty to do. We were thoroughly impressed with Madrid and consider it one of our favorite European cities. The city itself was very clean and easy to get around. We would recommend staying at the Sercotel Suites Vienna, which very close to the Plaza de Espana metro stop. The hotel is very confortable and conveniently located. There is Hertz rental car location just across the street from the metro station in a parking garage. If you need a break from the Spanish food we recommend Guru Indian restaurant ~5 min from Puerta del Sol.
General Advice: When making purchases use cash, because the stores give you a bad exchange rate when using credit(they'll give you the option for cash after the transaction is oompleted). Get a GPS in your car, it will save lots of time and frustration.(Hertz never lost was reasonable and easy to use, Europe car wanted us to take it with us from the US and then keep it for more time than we needed it)
Scott and Dawn
Cornelius, NC USA 12/02/2007
Impressions of Spain
Spain disappointed me. The architecture and the cleanliness were impressive but for some reason I did not feel a connection with the people--I didn't feel it's soul. The people are blank, efficiently going about their business. The spanish diet is limited. You really have to be assertive to avoid menus of ham and more ham. I followed the advice of most of the travel books to base most my week's visit in Madrid-mistake. We preferred Barcelona over Madrid. Gaudi's architecture alone provides enough to enjoy for several days although interior work in Sagrada Famila serously hampers the viewing the sanctuary. A picnic in Park Guell is memorable. There are more outdoor cafes to enjoy in Barcelona, more varieties of experiences-- the seacoast, better wine and food culture, more artisan shops.We had a fabulous dinner at Casa Calvet, a restaurant in an apartment building designed by Gaudi. Pricey but a worthwhile foodie splurge. Everywhere in Madrid places tried to pad the bill--favorite trick is to charge for the bread that they bring to your table or not showing you the menu del dia that was on the door (and the bread in
Spain is not good)-they usually take it off the bill with no problem but it ruins the enjoyment. Our one pleasure in Madrid was taking the tapas tour given by Adventurous Appetites that we heard about on this blog. It's a very good value. James, a Brit, spends 4 hours showing your group the evening tapas scene, a tour of the sights,and lots of food and drink. After spending the evening with him, we felt comfortable entering the bars and acting like a local. One woman in our party had the contents of her purse taken when a group of young well dressed frat-types "bumped" into us acting like they were drunk.
A Rick Steve's tip to use Vueling airlines for commuter flights within Spain worked out very well for us.
Bottom line is Spain is culture that caters to groups better than couples. That's the only way to get around the indifference of the natives.
Bryn
Philadelphia, PA USA 10/23/2007
Tapas Bars are bars, they are for enjoying refreshment in a public place and possibly meeting new people.
Of course you can buy good food in a market (it is one of the benefits of staying in self-catering accommodation, for example).
But the two do not substitiute for each other - the higher prices at a bar are to pay for the atmosphere, location, and the time you spend occupying the table while you chat and watch what is going on.
To "Skip the tapas bars" to save money, is to save money by avoiding one of the very Spanish pleasures you presumably went to Spain to look for.
Chris Jones
Sheffield, Yorks UK 10/17/2007
Popular tourist places, especially food places, almost inevitably become bland. Most tourists like what they know, and will complain if the food is "too spicy" or if the hotel "wasn't what we are used to" or if the steps up to a 15th century castle "didn't look too safe and needed a fence". So places learn that if they want the custom of most tourists, they have to be like everywhere else: safe. But I must say that people overuse the word "Bland". I can't always make out what they mean. Does it just mean "we didn't like it" or does it mean something specific (perhaps "not spicy enough").
If it means the latter, then the word is used so much that you get the impression that some people don't care WHAT food tastes like, so long as it has lots of chillies in it. In that case, take a bottle of your favourite sauce with you and plaster it over everything.
Spanish food covers such a huge variety, that it is difficult to believe that even a fussy eater would not find something they liked.
Try wood-roasted suckling lamb or piglet from Castille, a massive grill from Asturias, wonderful seafood from the Mediterranean, gorgeous dried hams from the Pyrenees .....
Chris Jones
Sheffield, Yorks UK 10/17/2007
Wedding food in Spain
We were fortunate to have a unique visit to Spain, by being included in a traditional Spanish wedding. What an experience!!! Besides the beautiful traditions including going to each family house for tapas before wedding, very loud fireworks, procession down the streets to the church and so much more---the food was amazing!! We had a five course meal w/amazing seafood, beef, tapas, dessert and a yummy kind of frozen lemon cello drink. The best!! We were a bit disappointed w/the food in restaurants due to tasting a bit plain and somewhat rude servers. But overall, w/the wine, beaches, relaxation and the experience of the wedding--we had an great experience in Alganet and Valencia.
Steph <email>
Long Beach, CA USA 09/07/2007
La Oliva, regional cuisine in Granada
Our best experience in Granada, Spain was eating in
La Oliva, Calle Rosario 9 in downtown Granada near the old City Hall (ayuntamiento). La Oliva is a shop that specializes in gourmet, regional food including wines, cheese, ham, olive oil, sauces, almonds, chocolate, etc. At the back of the shop is a large table where up to 10 people can experience an unforgettable sampling of regional food. Francisco, owner, fluent in English will share cultural and historical tidbids with a delightful sense of humor while serving up some of the best food you'll ever try. If you simply want to buy food gifts, you can sample quite a bit.
For the off the beaten track traveler, this is definitely the place to go!
Amy Contardi <email>
Sebastopol, CA USA 08/11/2007
Madrid Tapas
My husband and I booked a tapas tour in Madrid with Adventurous Appetites and it was fabulous. Besides learning about the local food and drink, we also found out a lot about the city itself (culture, history, etc.). It was one of our best experiences in Spain and we highly recommend it to everyone else.
Kim
Raleigh, NC USA 07/18/2007
Lisbon Restaurant
I would endore Geoff's comments, SUR SANGAM, Rua dos Correeiros, downtown Lisbon serves the best curry outside of the 'Balti Triangle' in Birmingham UK.
Great food, great happy service, you really feel that you are welcome there and the prices are so reasonable. You can also get very good Italian food there - My wife recommends the Vegetable Spaghetti Bolognaise. Thank you Shakil and team
Pat <email>
Birmingham, W Mids UK 07/16/2007
La Barca, Madrid
In Madrid we ate paella at La Barca, near the gay district. We were fortunate that they could squeeze us in without a reservation (we got there early at 9). My husband still talks about the wonderful Paella and can't wait to return.
Michelle
Anaheim, CA USA 07/13/2007
Correction, Not La Barca - Its La Barraca
La Barraca: You would never know how beautiful La Barraca is from the street. It’s just charming, and is said to serve some of the best paella in Madrid. Saffron gives paella its beautiful color (interestingly, saffron is more expensive than silver per ounce). Paella takes about 30 minutes to cook, so be prepared for a long, leisurely lunch. The best thing to do is order some starters, a full bottle of wine, and say to yourself, "Welcome to Spain!"
Where: Reina 29-31
Metro: Gran Vía or Sevilla
Michelle
USA 07/13/2007
Our most outstanding meals in Spain
In Granada, in the Albayzin,the Carmen Mirador de Morayma, in Rick's book, was a fantastic experience, for the entire memorable experience, with the great food and superb view of the Alhambra, exquisite at night!
In Madrid, the most perfect paella we found was at La Paella Real Restaurante. Actually, I don't think a better one could be found.
Also in Madrid, roast lamb at the Posada de la Villa was our main dish at another outstanding meal. This was preceded by tapas and wine at Plaza Major, at the Torre del Oro Bar Andalu.
Elizabeth <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 07/11/2007
Madrid - Change in Airport/Metro cost
I just got back from a business trip to Madrid, Spain. Since I was there this past February (2007), they have instituted a surcharge for the #8 Metro line that runs out to the Airport.
In addition to the subway ticket cost, there is now a 1 Euro fee each way.
When you're buying a ticket (including a 10-pack) at the machine in the airport, it will force you to buy at least one (1) of these Airport Surcharge fees (total ticket price goes from 6,40 to 7,40)...the problem is that this new screen on the machine doesn't yet have any language other than Spanish, so it can be a bit confusing!
If you fail to have the proper fare, you'll be able to get on the subway and all the way out to the airport - - you'll simply not be able to exit the metro system. You can buy the airport surcharge ticket at most customer service counters, plus there's machines inside of the metro here at the airport that could be used, but be aware that these get backed up by all of the travellers that got caught unprepared.
Personally, my first choice would be to simply add "2" airport surcharges to my 10pack ticket when I'm leaving the airport, which would take the price from 6,40 to 8,40.
-hh
H. Huntzinger
Denville, NJ USA 07/09/2007
Spain tips - Granada and Madrid
Just returned from a week in Spain. In Granada: DO NOT MISS having drinks at Juan Ranas Bar at sunset(9-10PM) with amazing view of the Alhambra - unforgettable! In Madrid: Hotel Europa was awesome - quiet and squeaky clean and the most awesome people watching in town at outdoor terrace cafe.
Jennifer
Washington, DC USA 07/07/2007
Lunch Time Tapas
Two Words, Iberian Ham. If in Barcelona skip the tapas places. Go to La Boqueria Market and make your own tapas. They an assortment of great fruit (nice portions) for 1 euro, some jamon iberico (the BEST cured ham) MUCH cheaper than restaurants and just about any other type of food you could think of. Everything is fresh and very reasonable. Buy everything up and find a spot in a shady plaza or down by the water and enjoy a hearty meal.
ASE
Santa Clara, CA USA 07/03/2007
Spanish Flavor
What to eat in Spain
. Boquerones
. Tapas
. Gazpacho
. Paella
. Spinach with pine nuts
. Galician style seafood
. Basque style fish
Where to eat:
. La Dolores Tapas (Madrid)
. Los Gabrieles (Madrid)
. Bar del Pi (Barcelona)
. Garduña (Barcelona)
. Ceveceria Giralda (Seville)
. El Rinconcillo (Seville)
. Mesón Blas Casa (Granada)
. Terraza Las Tomasas (Granada)
Also check out the Spanish Cooking section on www.Mediterranean-Lifestyles.com
Sofia
Falls Church, VA USA 07/02/2007
travel in spain
I'm now in Italy after spending 2 weeks in Spain. I will definetly go back to Spain because of the incredible architecture and other sights. I will say that I feel many of the Spanish are not particulary helpful or accommidating. In other words, all the things I've heard about the French over the years would be more aptly applied to the Spanish. Not the French. Other travelers I met in Spain shared similar experiences with me. Examples include not being served in restaurants, having individuals refuse any attempt to communicate to english speakers and being outright ostracised in certain social settings. It's my understanding that museums and other public facilities used to have english explanations but that it's all been removed. Also, I experienced severe food poisening in Madrid and my nephew experienced same in Barcelona. I found most food to be bad including the paella.Terrible paella. Greasy and not fresh. I tried the roast suckling pig in Toleda at Los quatro tiempos, reccomemended in Rick's Spain book. It was strange, greasy and tasted like foul chicken. The staff at the restaurant was not particularly friendly and I feel they overcharged me for some drinks. I would most definetly stay away from that place.
I stayed at Hotel San Francisco in Sevilla. At night, the front desk clerk would install a coat hanger between the inside handles of the entry doors. He said this was for security reasons. The only problem was when I Came back in the evening he was sometimes asleep or on the phone. Once when he was on the phone and I wanted to come in, he held his hand out to me in a gesture to wait until he was finished instead of telling the person on the phone to hold. Getting into France from Spain was a pleasant relief. I have always been treated well by the French.
adam H
Pleasant Hill, Ca USA 06/16/2007
Where not to eat in Barcelona
Stay away from Los Coracoles in Barcelona. Terrible, Terrible food and the service is even worse. This place deserves to crash and burn.
Adam H.
Pleasant Hill, ca USA 06/16/2007
Indian Restaurant Recommendation in Lisbon
For anyone visiting Lisbon: do yourself a favor and visit Sur Sangam, an Indian restaurant in the Baixa.
After a relatively long trip through Spain and Portugal, I have to admit that we were looking for something a little different. I've eaten at some of the best Indian places imaginable (London, Singapore) and this is among one of the best. Inexpensive, great service and (at the time) relatively uncrowded.
On the Rua dos Correeiros.
Geoff <email>
Ladera Ranch, CA USA 06/13/2007
Paella
For Kim in Brooklyn:
Hi, I think you are referring to paella which is served in a large shallow dish and consists of - among other things - rice and assorted seafood (including varieties of shellfish.
Mary Ann
Denver, CO USA 05/20/2007
A Tarifa MUST
In the Old walled portion of Tarifa is the worlds best kept secret. take a left onto San Fransisco, then a left into the first alleyway (no name posted) you will come across 3 or 4 little eateries. There is a BBQ place on the right that serves all types of meat with the worlds best French fries and a salad. (again no visible name shown) the food was amazing!!!! it is a little pricey but my husband and i shared one and we were both stuffed!!!!
beth <email>
portsmouth, uk 05/18/2007
Tea in Andalucia
One taste I don't read many posts on is the tea in Spain, especially in Andalucia with its Moorish history. In Sevilla and Grenada there are some great "Teterias" (tea shops). You'll have to ask at your hotel for local favorites. They are such a cultural experience, and have dozens (if not hundreds) of different and unusual teas. Be aware that some of the teterias may double as hookah bars!
Lori
Chicago, IL USA 05/09/2007
Food
We just got back from a 2 week stay in Barcelona and Girona. If you are going to Spain I would recommend going with exceptionally low food expectations. The entire time we were there the best food we found was by accident. The best part of the trip was getting a rental car and driving out of any tourist towns on the map and exploring the little areas like Sa Tuna. Seriously we spent almost 2000 Dollars American in the two weeks we were there on just food and wine and beer. I must say the wine was good the 'Estella Dam' beer was exceptional and in order to make any of the Spanish food tolerable much drink is necessary.
Jasper
NYC, NY USA 05/06/2007
Vila Velha Restaurante - Sagres, Portugal
Chef Lia and waitperson Ana Teresa present a consistently excellent meal. We have visited this restaurant eight times since 2003 and never failed to receive first class treatment and wonderful seafood as well as classy desserts!
Gretchen & Peter Byfield <email>
Madison, WI USA 03/30/2007
ALHAMBRA: COURTYARD LIONS BEING RESTORED
I have just returned from a trip to the alhambra today, March 26th, 2007.
Be aware however, that the famous courtyard fountain lions are being RESTORED from 2006 through 2008!!!
We were disappointed, also be aware that the www.alhambratickets.com website is very buggy!!!!
I would still recommend seeing the Alhambra with its intricate islamic art and carvings....beware of the lions though.
Rick Steves as usual was spot on with his recommendations to take the minibuses from Plaza Nueva!!!!
SANTIAGO
FL USA 03/26/2007
Murcia & Cartagena, with Roman settlements
I wanted to comment on the rather unchartered wealth of the south-east of Spain, in Murcia and Cartagena. The latter was the Roman outpost and the capital for Roman control over its "bread basket" Spain. Murcia is a small city with a quaint cathedral and a lively disco-bar life, small enough to avoid lots of tourists, but big enough to find charm and lots of plazas. It also boasts a rich Arab history in addition to Roman and Cartagenian. Rick does not mention either cities in the Spain guidebook, but both are delightful. I spent 4 months studying in Murcia, and appreciated the openness, unique food, and sauntering pace of the southern culture.
As for "taste treats," Murcia boasts its own type of foods, with a more health-centered Mediterranean diet. I particularly enjoyed the fresh pepper, tomato salads, chorizo meat samplings, Sangria, and Rinon chocolates, which originate in Murcia.
Janna <email>
Seattle, WA USA 03/16/2007
Pastéis de Nata (Belém)
After not having visited Portugal since the early 1970s as a child, I had arrived in Lisbon airport on 21st February 2007. After leaving the baggage claim, and before heading to the Oriente train station, the first thing I bought was a Pastel de Nata, otherwise known as a Pastel de Belém. It is like creme brulée with a croissant crust (cupcake shaped). My first one at the airport cost EUR 1.25 (can go up to EUR 1.30), but in the "Pingo Doce" supermarket, they can be as little as EUR 0.40. On average they are EUR 0.80. They are very good with a "galao" (portuguese version of the latte), although I had a ginjinha with them. Those pastéis are very addictive. Please eat them sparingly.
Josh Hanz <email>
Frisco, TX USA 03/03/2007
3 Restaurants not to miss in Portugal
Evora- It's been said here before, and I'm so pleased we followed the advice posted by others: Do NOT miss the fantastic lunch at Taberna Tipica de Quatra Feira. We ate so well, had no idea what was coming next, but everything was delicious, especially the warmed cheese appetizer and the sort of creamed spinach. We were the only tourists in there, too. 20 euros/person as of Feb 13, 2007. Amazing. Really we had ham, cheese, olives, bread, pork, potatoes, rice, spinach, wine, coffee, pine nuts, dried fruit, pastry and a digestif liquer all for 20euros!
Porto- Abadia. Authentic, great value, nice atmosphere. Great Bachalau. Hard to find becasue Rick's directions aren't great and there's construction on the street, but totally worth the effort.
Sintra- Binhoteca and Alex the knowledable wine bartender. He's awesome. Again, I'm so glad we followed the adimant advice of other posters and went to see him. He knew so much. We didn't eat there, though, just tried a few glasses of wine. Lovely, lovely experience. He's patient, generous and so knowledgeable. Not a scary wine snob at all!!!
S Carr
Boston, MA USA 02/28/2007
Madeira Island
Went to Portugal for my honeymoon because of Ricks video on Purtugal. We stayed on Madeira island (province of Portugal)We went surfing and the food was unbelievable and so were the people. This is a place most americans do not go. The green wine is good and cheap and can be bought in the USA. The local seafood is a fish that is only available there. Spend some time on Madeira is an experience of a life time
Jim Rosen <email>
Atlantic City, NJ USA 02/26/2007
We´ve just come back from a week in Barcelona and also stumbled across Taller de Tapas and were intrigued by the crowds. We loved the atmosphere and found the food to be very good quality and simply cooked. We went back several times because we thought it very well priced, 15-30€ depending on hunger at the time! On other days we tried Origens but found it much more expensive and less fun.Cal Pep was good for a blow out and really nice but we couldn´t justify paying twice as much for the same quality as Taller de Tapas.
Sandy
USA 02/11/2007
Tapas in Barcelona
We were in Barcelona in October 2006 visiting our daughter who was there doing her "semester abroad", and happened upon an incredible restaurant for Tapas. Taller de Tapas! We walked by the restaurant one night and noticed a huge line of people waiting outside so thought we'd try it. Fabulous & Delicious, and they have 2 locations. One at 9 Plaza Sant Josep Oriol and another in the El Born at 51, Argenteria. We ate at both locations about 4 times while we were there it was so good!
Carol Bunker <email>
Menlo Park, CA USA 01/26/2007
Tapas recommendation
I just returned from a trip to Spain. Visted Barcelona, Sevilla and Madrid. I tried to find some of Rick's tapas recommendations - really just took too long to track them down. I did want to make one recommendation for a Tapas bar in Sevilla. Best that I could find out of all 3 cities. Cerveceria Montditos www.cerveceria100montaditos.es Great - INEXPENSIVE tapas. Finally a place that wasn't over charging for marginal food. There are over 100 choices for tapas. AND, the beer and tapas are 1 Euro each. I was out the door happy - for 5 Euros. That included 2 glasses of beer. Getting to the bar is not easy as most of Sevilla is under road construction and it was muddy. Avda. de la constitucion 9, 41010 Sevilla 902/197 494. Enjoy!
Lynne Forbes
Mission Viejo, CA USA 11/24/2006
Spain tapas & wine tours
We had some EXCELLENT FOOD & WINES in Spain....BUT you won't find it in the touristy places. Same thing happened to us in Italy,,,places that are in the guide books get a demand boost, prices reise, local go elsewhere, quality drops. Key is good local info!
We got the inside scoop on our fantastic private guided tour package in Spain with a US company called magical spain. Had tapas & art tour + winery day trip visit in Barcelona, In Madrid and Seville we had fantastic private cooking demo / class + meals. Later we did a private winery visit+ seafood feast in Jerez / San Lucar. Contact Richard or Daniel in advance as these guys are very popular and good. Try the web site first on http://www.magicalspain.com or phone + (34) 678 72 44 68. Not cheap but private top quality profesional service never is. HAPY EATING:-)
John & Britton Carlton
NYC, USA 11/20/2006
Lisbon
Lisbon -- Bonjardim. An acquaintance recommended Bonjardim, especially the Frango piro piri, and it was perhaps the best chicken I have ever eaten. We loved it so much we went back a second night to have it again. Our waiter was excellent -- spoke enough English to communicate and was very friendly and helpful. Located near Rossio.
MFM
Austin, TX USA 11/18/2006
Food in Spain
We were disappointed with the food in Spain. Especially the tapas. We ate at several of the tapas bars mentioned in Rick's guidebooks in Madrid and Barcelona. Most everything seemed bland. Although we did have good paella in Barceloneta at El Rey del Gamba.
A post below mentioned the water being refilled by tap water. I believe it. Much of the bottled water we bought or were served tasted like tap water, or even worse.
The Spanish have a lot to learn in regards to cooking from their neighboring European countries.
SF, CA USA 10/24/2006
San Sebastian and Zargoza
Zargoza is not in Rick's book, but we stopped there overnight in between Barcelona and on our way up to San Sebastian. Zargoza has a wonderful atmosphere and GREAT tapas! It claims to be the tapas capital of Spain and I wouldn't doubt it! We ate our way through the town.
San Sebastian has wonderful seafood along the port. Fishermen come up to unload their catches and it goes right into the restaurants. Get there early, crowds are plenty to get a table! Sidra, an apple cider wine, is a must when in San Sebastian!
Sandy
Chicago, USA 10/17/2006
Still unpacking from trip to Spain. The one thing that was consistently good in Spain was the Tortilla (egg and potato). It appeared on a hotel breakfast buffet and made a nice accompaniment to the stronger flavors of the ham and anchovies of the tapas.
Also, the best restaurant value we found was in Cordoba, across the street from Hotel Gonzalez (good choice, Rick.) Across the narrow street there is an outdoor restaurant, called "Cafe Bar Juda Levi," that serves tourists on "tourist time." We were able to eat at about 6:00 p.m. and go back to the room and crash. Prices were as reasonable as we found. They even have a salad bar. It was too hot (early October) to eat inside so we paid more to eat outside. One poor waitress was working about 16 full tables by herself. We asked her about it and she said there was another waitress inside. It was funny because the next morning, there were 3 women in the hotel breakfast room making a big production over serving toast, coffee and orange juice to us and 2 other tables! (As we walked out the front door, the same waitress was reporting to work across the street.)
Peggy
Houston, TX USA 10/15/2006
Tapas Tours Madrid
Just got back from Madrid, where we had a fantastic Tapas tour with Adventurous Appetites (www.adventurousappetites.com). They took us to places we wouldn't have otherwise gone to and were very knowledgeable and informative about Madrid. A true walking and eating tour of Madrid, highly recommended!
Randy Newville
Los Angeles, CA USA 10/15/2006
Cooking lessons - barcelona
Fabulous cooking lessons - 1/2 the price of normal - great facility and tour of market.
coquus@ya.com
www.coquus.es
c/Ferrer de Blanes 7
080212
Sheila Harrison <email>
Houston, TX USA 10/09/2006
Barcelona paella
My boyfriend and I just spent time in Barcelona and Madrid and the Lonely Planet recommendations were usually good. Be careful in Barcelona along Las Ramblas, we ordered orange juice and a coke and they came out with monstrous tumblers and when I commented to the waiter about them being too big he said no these were small! We spoke in Spanish too. Well, they charged us 9.50 Euros for each drink! We ordered paella all over Barcelona, too and it was very disappointing, very little meat and mostly rice. Typical paella cost about 7-10 euros and all you got was 1 or 2 shrimp, one or two mussels, 1 crayfish tail, and some squid maybe. Be careful, even if you speak Spanish, they rip you off.
Shelley
Dothan, AL USA 10/01/2006
Bottled water that wasn´t....
We´re in Barcelona and a restaurant, El Quatre Gats, was highly recommended. The food was great, but we witnessed the staff filling empty water bottles with tap water and serving them (and charging) as bottled water. We hope we don´t get sick....
Rocky and the Girls
Denver, CO USA 10/01/2006
Barcelona, Madrid, Toledo
I would still eat at Crème de Canela, but would skip its sister restaurant, Les Quinze Nits.
At Crema, my glass of good cava cost 1.60 euros.
With or without kids, I would check out the local versions of Starbucks, McDonald’s, etc. They often have outdoor seating. It is fun to see the differences (beer and gaspacho at McDonald’s, as well as what is familiar). Also they do not keep Spanish (late) dinner hours. (The McDonald’s outside in Toledo-outside Madrid, was great.) Also in both Barcelona and Madrid, the chain Fresco is great for a salad bar lunch or for a picky eater kid. They are called Buffet Libre – because it is an all you can eat set up, for a fixed-low-price. There is self serve frozen ice cream- beware the one that is white is not vanilla. It is a plain yogurt flavor. There is only so much ham one can eat. (Check out that one flavor of potato chips you see everywhere is ham flavored!) I also noticed how some coffee places advertised they had to-go cups because that is not the Barcelona (or Madrid) style. They do not race to work, checking BlackBerries. They linger, standing, and yakking, and inhaling second-hand smoke. (Also do know that the famed potato omelet served everywhere in the mornings is not served hot, as I expected.)
Marilyn
NY, NY USA 09/09/2006
In land Galicia, The Ribeira Sacra
If you are travelling to Galicia then here are three places in which only the locals seem to know about. Both are situated in an area known as the Ribeira Sacra. This is located on the banks of the rivers Mino and Sil. More information here.
http://www.world66.com/europe/spain/galicia/ribeira_sacra
The first is Casa Pepe (0034 982 453 101), on the road from Chantada to Monforte (the road number varies but it is either signed posted as the LU553 or the CRG 21) It is just past the village of Pesqueiras. It is a churrasco, which means that the food (mainly meat) is cooked over a large open fire, with no flavourings! The meal will cost about 20€ for 2 persons including a bottle of house wine and sweet. Sometime there is someone who speaks some English on duty. The second place is in the town Chantada. The restaurant is called Meson Lucas and is located in the old quarter of the town. It is a bit more expensive than Casa Pepe but still proves to be good value for money No English spoken here.
The third place to eat is also in Chantada bar Bodegón O'Lar do Cepa (Calle Jose Antonio, 21, Chantada, 0034 982 440 535). It has pigs ears!!! Seeing them used as decoration, like bunting was new to me. I counted the salted ears of at least 16 pigs gracing the ceiling of the each one lightly swinging on its butcher's hook as we entered the room. They were interlaced with hams, chorizo and pork belly, but ear was definitely the favourite here. Red wine is poured from label-less bottles into traditional drinking bowls, which also adds to the atmosphere. No English spoken here.
We stayed in a local Casa Rural, (B&B) called Casa Santo Estevo, run by a Dutch/English couple. www.ribeirasacra.com for more information.
Joe <email>
Reading, UK 09/01/2006
Madrid - Great Roast Chicken
For the best roast chicken in Madrid, it has to be Casa Mingo...this place has been around for years and serves great food at cheap prices. The place is very rustic and you sit at long wooden tables with the local folks. The menu is pretty much roast chicken, chorizo and natural cider...great atmosphere and outstanding hearty food.
Jeff
Ottawa, Canada 08/31/2006
GREAT BAR AND FOOD IN NERJA
My daughter and I spent 2 weeks in Nerja for much needed R & R. We basically spent the whole day at the beach (Playa Cantarijan about a 15-minute car ride away) and came back to the hotel for a shower then we joined the crowds for the evening paseo. We are both hard-core foodies. Our favorite places to eat were Casa Luque on the Plaza Cavana. It's a bit on the fancy side but fabulous, with a great wine list and a beautiful terrace overlooking the water. Sometimes we would go there just for a bottle of Cava and a few fancy tapas (their croquettas and lomo de cerdo with blue cheese sauce were divine). Our favorite bar is Los Barilles, right on the Calle de Carabeo near the Balcon de Europa. The owner happily tends bar while his charming wife and son work the miniscule open kitchen. His sangria was the best we've ever had in Spain! Los Barilles offers only a few tapas and raciones. We loved the Chorizos al Infierno - our day was not complete until we had them. It is a chorizo on a skewer cooked in alcohol in a terra cotta pig. When done to your liking, you sandwich it between two pieces of bread - divine! The bar is very friendly and always full of activity. We met very nice people there and always felt comfortable. We miss it!
operachickie <email>
san francisco, ca USA 08/12/2006
Pyaya in Barcelona (I know the spelling is not right!)
I will be going to Barcelona in April of 07. My boyfriend and I are big pyaya (sp?) eaters. Can anyone recommend a good resturaunt for that that is not to expensive? Your help would be appreciated.
Kim
Brooklyn, NY USA 08/07/2006
EXCELLENT wine bar in Barcelona
EXCELLENT little wine bar in Barcelona: Va de Vi, at Carrer dels Banys Vells 16, in La Ribera, serves very good wines by the glass or the bottle. The staff were very friendly, and the setting is cool! Follow a drink (or two or three) there with some tapas at La Raval, around the corner on Carrer de l'Argenteria, and you've got a wonderful summer evening.
Cheryl Johnson <email>
Huntington Beach, CA USA 08/04/2006
La Fonda/Barcelona
We ate at La Fonda last night and found the service and the food quite lacking. The veal dish was inedible; it took them almost 40 minutes to take our order (we sat there without even anything to drink). The whole dinner took well over 3 hours with just a lot of waiting and they managed to serve my husband's appetizer with my dinner so I got to watch him eat his dinner. It may be cheap, but you get what you pay for.
Diana
Phoenix, AZ USA 07/27/2006
Spain highlights
Just returned from 10 days in Spain with my daughter. As always, Rick's books are a MUST. The Madrid Pub-Crawl was a delight. Note that the Lhardy tapas bar is next door to the Lhardy VERY high end restaurant---we were a bit confused.
Highlight for us was 2 days in Arcos. We were glad to leave the hectic pace of Madrid and Seville.
In Arcos, the "convent cookies" were wonderful, as was the sidewalk cafe in St. Peters courtyard---cars, walkers, ATV's motorcycles, and those of us eating, all in the same small space---it was such great people watching!
Best food value in Arcos was Restaurante San Marcos.
Had a 4 hour stop over in Ronda, and decided we could have spent another 2 days there. We loved the spectacular views, and great little eating extablishments where you really mingle with the locals.
Chocolateria San Gines is a MUST in Madrid. We tried others, and there was no comparison. Recommend sharing one, however, as they are rich, and you can always order a second one if needed.
If you are a horse lover, the horse show in Jerez at Yeguada De La Cartuja is a don't miss. Complimentary sherry and a GREAT one hour show! The cab ride out is a bit spendy, but it was about 20 minutes out of town.
Some prices in Rick's 2006 book were already out of date, usually about 5 euro over what was stated in the book.
Finally, in Madrid, we give the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum 3 stars. The impressionist collection is about the best I've seen.
One surprising thing was the amount of graffiti. It seems to be everywhere with little or no attempt to cover it up.
BUT, we had a dream vacation, and couldn't have done it without Rick's book. We like to travel economically, and staying in hostals he recommends, is both fun and reasonable. Hats off to you Rick Steves!!
cindy jindra <email>
Ft. Myers, FL USA 07/16/2006
Southern Spain
Just returned from southern Spain. Two RS recommendations were terrific: Restaurante el Ladrillo in the Albayzin quarter of Granada, and Los Teresas for tapas in the Santa Cruz section of Sevilla. Both were not the prettiest to look at, but loved the food. Had to adjust to different eating times, and in Seville taking your remaining dinner home makes for cranky waiters. And use cash. In Nerja sadly didn't discover the food at Burriana beach until the end. Never found a terrific paella - should have gone to suggested Ayo's. Final note: in Nerja loved RS recommended New Orleans Cafe, but they are moving the end of June to Berlin. Lucky Berliners!
Joan <email>
Snohomish, WA USA 06/16/2006
Salema garlic shrimp
Best food in 6 weeks on the road--Lorenco's in Salema. The camorones in garlic and the camorones gigantia (sp?) were fabulous. Just ask for shrimp and garlic!
Mary Coleman <email>
Silverton, Oregon USA 05/28/2006
Cooking Class in Barcelona
I just returned from a whirlwind trip through France and Spain. In Spain, I visited Barcelona, Sevilla, Toledo and Madrid. By far, one of the best things I did was take a cooking class in Barcelona. We learned how to make Paella, as well as three other dishes. The class takes about 3.5 hours, and I would highly recommend it, even if you are in Barcelona for a short time. I was there for only two days. The teacher is wonderful, and the food is delicious. You can find out more about it at: www.cookandtaste.net
Theresa
los angeles, CA USA 05/09/2006
Fun Spain Walking & Eating Trip!
Hi, we are two 55 year old youngsters and had a WONDERFUL trip to Spain in April - We did a 6 night easy walking & eating trip in southern Spain with a small group and ate some of the best meals I have had in ages. On our own after the trip we discovered that the tourist area food was far inferior to what we got with our local guides who know the hidden local places! They took such good care of us! We met numerous Spaniards like chefs, a winemaker, a flamenco dancer + on the cooking class learned to make a Spanish dinner and went to places we would never have found alone! Our guide, a 10 year resident, was American Dan O'Beirne (5*) from www.MagicalSpain.com . They are listed by Rick in the Spain book! Sean & Maria Healion + family
Sean & Maria Healion + family
USA 05/01/2006
Food
We just returned from two weeks in Spain and Portugal. We would recomend the following:
Avila: La Alcazba
Nerja: Pacoman
Ronda: Restaurante Del Escudero/ From Rick - great Patio
Segovia: Jose Maria's /from Rick,have the suckling Pig and enjoy the presentation.
John
San Diego, Ca USA 04/16/2006
spain
peppered lobster at elpinlo in benelmadina yum yum
steve
essex, USA 04/14/2006
MUST-EAT in Madrid
Spent a summer in Spain and my highest eating recommendation if for LA GLORIA DE MONTERA in Madrid (Caballero de Gracia 10 just off Plaza de la Red de San Luis on Gran Via). It was recommended in my Lonely Planet and is a super-chic restaurant with the best gourmet food and wine-- I spent about $20 US total for several courses-- a steal-- and it's a happening place for locals, which says it all. Best place I ate in Spain!!! Find it!!!
Joy
Gainesville, FL USA 04/08/2006
Granada Tapas
In Granada, there is a little neighborhood called Zaidin. My husband and I live here and it has the best little tapas bars for 1-2 euros apiece, plus free food because it's in Granada. Las Porras is wonderful, with fried calamaris, seafood, sandwhiches, hamburgers, all for free. Find the out of the way places, and you won't be sorry.
Jamie <email>
Granada, Spain 03/15/2006
Restaurant Suggestions in El Born, Barcelona
First off, if you’re staying near El Born, my suggestions may not be worth the trip unless you like small neighborhood restaurants. However, if you’re in Barcelona and have not spent an evening strolling through the mid-evil streets of El Born, I could not recommend it enough. If the Ramblas is Time’s Square then El Born is East Village.
Restaurants
I’ll start with the best, Senyor Parellada. We eat there twice on a six-day visit. It was that good. It’s not that the food is outstanding; it’s just the whole package, ambiance, great local affordable wine, great service and no smoking. The address is: Argenteria, 37.
Second has to be Cal Pep. It is difficult to describe the experience; it’s a little like the soup nazi crossed with some Italian hospitality. I realize this is contradiction in terms but like I sad, difficult to describe. As for what Cal Pep does do, fish dishes and more fish dishes but also some sausage. As for what he doesn’t do, well, no reservations, no tables (everyone sits at the bar), no menus (except the one at the door) and no loitering. It’s turn and burn place but the food is very, very good. Address is: Placa de les Olles, 8.
Finally, if you’re dying for tapas, I recommend Taller de Tapas at Argenteria, 51 (I guess it’s also referred to as l’Argenteria). It’s good and worth the high prices. Cellar de Tapas, just as good but even higher prices.
Other suggestions are:
Origen 99.9% and Chese Me
Mark <email>
Studio City, CA USA 02/26/2006
Great Tapas in Madrid
I just spent three days in Madrid and, based on the advice of my AMAZING tour guide, Pedro Hernandez, I visited a fantastic tapas bar called La Trucha which is right off the Plaza Santa Ana. The place was full of locals and the tapas was out of this world!!
Troy
Montgomery, AL USA 02/15/2006
Restaurante Cervejaria Fialho- Evora
Restaurante Cervejaria Fialho- Evora
Why: Rick's book says this may be the best restaurant in Portugal and I agree. It is known in town as the Fialho. Excellent setting, friendly professional staff. They served us appetizers and drinks while waiting for our table(we arrived without a reservation and they were very accomodating). We sat in a beautiful Portuguese Country style room. Great diverse menu. Our party tried the Hare in wild rice, Wild Boar, Beef, Chilean Sea Bass and Octopus. Don't worry they have regular food as well. All were wonderful and moderately priced. Our group ate like Kings and drank excellent wine for about $200. This is a must if you are near Evora.
Brian <email>
Pompano beach, FL USA 01/31/2006
Great Resturants in Sevilla
Returant Miguel Angel Ground floor of the Hotel Occidental, Avida Kabsas City(near Train Station) A litte expensive for lunch BUT worth it. Great place to escape the mid day summer heat. La Taberna Cibetis 1 La Triana, had GREAT little neck clams. It is right on the river which adds to its ambience. Try it after 10pm.
Burt Gitlin
North Bergen, NJ USA 12/12/2005
El Pino Rest.- Marbella
On the Costa del Sol near Marbella, at about exit 94, just across (north) the highway from the Marriott Marbella is the "Pino" Restaurant owned by Massimo and his wife. Massimo is a young entreprener who worked for one of the major cruise lines for several years and is very customer oriented. The menu suggestions he made for us were delicious. The house wine was excellent and the prices were very reasonable.
USA 11/11/2005
Costa del Sol
The Red Pepper restaurant in Puerto Banus (near Marbella) is excellent. We met the owner Christos, who along with his wonderful staff, made our whole evening very special. From the special appetizers prepared by the owner to the "suckling pig" with crackling skin, we had a wonderful time in this very special yaght harbor. It was entertaining to just walk down the piers looking at the boats and enjoying a glass of wine (or two) while watching a beautiful Costa del Sol sunset.
USA 11/06/2005
Bar Electricidad - Barcelona
When in Barcelona, take the subway over to Barceloneta and stop at the Bar Electricidad (recommended in Rick's book). Rick aptly described the vermut as "candy from heaven," and the red wine is soooo easy to drink - and so cheap! We stood at the bar, had several glasses of wine, a plate of manchego cheese, and a delicious seafood salad! This all while talking to the bartender in Spanish (it may have been the wine, but communication got easier after the first couple of glasses!). We even took a couple of liters of wine with us - in a plastic drink container! - to enjoy with our lunch on the train ride the next day!
Calvin
Findlay, OH USA 11/03/2005
Evora Restaraunt
Unfortunately, I do not like seafood... so a two-week stint in southern portugal was, by some, "wasted." I heartily disagree. I LOVED all food. What the Portuguese can do with pork is amazing. I miss the food immensely... particularly the Presunto Ruffles! The pasteries were fantastic. I made it a mission to find out which town had the best Pastis do Nata... stopping in several different cafes daily in every town.
If you go to Evora, I must insist that you go to 4a Feira. My husband and I stopped into this small and homey restaraunt and were greeted by non-english speaking owner. He only asked us two questions about our meal: did we want wine, and was the meal good?
He did not offer a menu, nor did we ask. He brought out baked cheese, bread, cured meats and the best olives ever. This was only the start. He then presented our entrees, telling us which dish was for whom. Even after dessert, he was pouring us shots of two tasty liqours.. one kind for me, the other for my husband. We praised him so much, he gave us a bottle of his especially made wine to take home.
We also dined at the upscale Fialho, (reservations recommended on a weekday in march) but really.. GO TO TABERNA TIPICA QUARTA-FEIRA!!
Jenny <email>
Tacoma, wa USA 10/29/2005
SEAFOOD in LISBON
In fact it is , take your tongue out for a tasterride in PORTUGAl.
Just acroos the river from LISBON (TAGUS) you have CACILHAS a river port with delicious fresh SEAFOOD after then you can do some sightseeing, probably the best sight of LISBON
Al <email>
Lisbon, PORTUGAL 10/27/2005
Madrid Tapas Tour
I just recently returned from Spain. I had one night in Madrid on my own and was lucky enough to find a new company called Adventurous Appetites run by two Brits now living in Madrid. James was my tour guide. The group included myself and a couple from England. James took us to many places that I would not have been able to find on my own. All of the food and drink was excellent and James was a very knowledgeable tour guide. I would highly recommend their tours. www.adventurousappetites.com
Aimee
Houston, TX USA 10/25/2005
Tapas in Barcelona
I disagree with comments about "Celler de Tapas". I´ve travelled to Barcelona for many years and can say that it´s a total rip off of "Taller de Tapas", which opened well before them and is much better. You´ll have a much more fun and better food in the original!
julia
USA 10/25/2005
wine
Spent a few days in Madrid this April.Enjoyed the tapas bars very much and the house wine thats was served from a keg.It was a sweet red wine and I was wondering if anybody knows the name of this wine and can it be had here in the U.S.?
Harvey Klinger <email>
Philadelphia, Pa USA 10/15/2005
Nerja,Costa Del Sol,Spain
We just returned from spending 17 days in Spain. Our favourite place to eat was at Ayo's on Playa Barrianna. I read about Ayo's on Rick's website under Spain Guidebook Update. We tried a lot of paella while we were in Spain but Ayo's was by far the best.The cost was 5E for all you can eat paella.The prawns in the paella were huge and very tasty. Would definitely recommend trying Ayo's if you are in Nerja. Find your way to Playa Barrianna and Ayo's is right on the beach.
Shona <email>
Oshawa, ON Canada 10/11/2005
Tenerife / Canaries food trip
Being a bit of a foodie, I was looking forward to eating out in Tenerife, as I had heard it has some interesting twists on Spanish food, and some good international restaurants to boot. However, the 'good' Canarian restaurants were all dreadful, and to be frank, the best places to eat for good local food were the little hole-in-the-wall style bar restaurate that the locals eat at. Carne con papas, garbanzos and mojo were tasty in these places, but awful anywhere else. The only place worth mentioning when it comes to 'international' food is Los Roques in Los Abrigos. We found it just by walking past - frankly the fish restaurants there, which are supposed to be the attraction, didn't look up to much. The food, service and ambiance at Los Roques were all second to none however, and they easily match good to excellent restaurants I've eaten in in places like New York and London. Worth the trip just for that one restaurant! (and the papas bonitas)
David
NY, NY USA 10/09/2005
Madrid Dinning
An older post says that "La Oreja de Oro" was out of business. They must've since re-opened. Not a "classy" place, but a very local dive on Calle de la Victoria for great tapas. Try the champiñones de la casa (mushrooms), pemientos del padrón (pan seared sweet peppers), or the sardines. All terrific!
Los Galayos on the Plaza Mayor has a great menu del dia - excellent food & service for the price!
Will
Atlanta, GA USA 10/03/2005
Dining in Spain
My sister, brother-in-law, and I ate at the "Cuina Mediterrania" in Tortosa, Spain, and had a great meal. I had the couscous - raisin with beef. My sister had tagine chicken, and my brother-in-law had kabobs - lamb. All were reasonably priced and delicious! Ahmed, the owner, was very friendly and delighted that we liked his cooking. We had a wonderful green/mint tea after the meal. Email me for his address or phone number.
Dianne <email>
Renton, WA USA 09/28/2005
OLE SEVILLA GOURMET TAPAS TOUR!
OLE SEVILLA SPAIN GOURMET TAPAS TOUR! My husband and I are food, wine & music lovers and enjoyed Spain a lot! Highlight was our foodie tour discovering non-touristy places, learning about making of tapas, glasses of Reserva Rioja wine at 3 euros with gourmet tapas in Seville / Sevilla.The REALLY good places are not so easy to find but we did a private tour with US expat Dan O'Bryne, who is recommended by Rick was tasty, educational and fun!!!!!!!! He does 2 hour Secrets of Seville tours + a private tasting of wine on a historic 500 year old Sevillano patio with fountain to start + EDUCATION handouts and recipes + recommendations for places to eat around Spain. Price for 2 was 89 euros for his expertise and time. After the tasting you pay your own wine and tapas for 2 or 3 stops. he also has other tours of Seville Medival Legends, Seville Patios and Seville Dance + day trips to Cordoba & hiking. Best to book ahead as charming Dan is a busy guy. try www.magicalspain.com ADIOS y OLE ESPANA!
Brandy & Lucien Giardino
NYC, NY USA 09/26/2005
Vegetarian meals, SW Alentejo Portugal
I experienced that there are very few vegetarian restaurants in Southern Portugal. At Monte Corgo do Pardieiro (near Odemira) you can * on appointment * enjoy a very good vegetarian meal at a reasonable price (E 10 - 15 for a 3-course dinner). See their website http://www.alentejo.nl/eng/delicious_and_vegetarian.html .
Huub Schuurmans
Leiden, Netherlands 08/10/2005
Les Quince Nits = Jerks
Les Quince Nits in Barcelona's Plaza Real used to be a fantastic restaurant, which is why they always have a line out the door. Unfortunately, the service, food, and ambiance have suffered. You will be disappointed.
Frieda
Naples, FL USA 07/26/2005
There's nothing savory about food poisoning!
If you are traveling to Spain, please be wary of the Spanish rendition of fast food, Pans & Company. They are like the Subway of Spain. I contracted food poisoning from a sandwich I ate there and was nearly hospitalized in Barcelona. The sanitary conditions abroad are less stringent in some countries and I should have paid closer attention to them. Avoid Pans and avoid an 8 hour date with the bathroom~
Katina
Evanston, IL USA 07/26/2005
Madrid restaurant
I highly recommend "La Finca de Susana" for a great place to eat in Madrid. It is an easy walk from Puerta del Sol. The wait on a Saturday night can be long, but well worth it. We ate their twice. I am a vegetarian, and they had lots of options. We had a bottle of great wine and a three course meal (including two desserts) for about 30 euro. The restuarant has a great atmosphere and the service was great.
Felicia
Washington, DC USA 07/21/2005
Toledo Treat - El Botero Location
El Botero is just around the corner from one of Rick's favorite Hotels, Hotel Santa Isabel and up the road from Rest. Casa Aurelio II. The address is Calle de la Ciudad 5, 45001 Toledo. On Rick's map (page 238, "Rick Steve's Spain 2005) walk from #5 towards #10. When you have #10 on your right and you are facing towards the cathederal, turn about face and walk up Calle de la Ciudad about 30 yards and you'll find it on your left hand side.
Note that Frederik hasn't quite got his website up and isn't one for e-mail. Regardless, go on in and enjoy a most amazing treat. For wine lovers, this is a must. For families, there's plenty of refrescos for the children unlike Taverna De Amboades (Miguel's equally a wine nut, but forbids anything other than wine or water in his restaurant - must be down to his former life as a Jesuit priest?). Enjoy El Botero!
Philip <email>
London, UK 07/08/2005
Toledo Treat - El Botero
El Botero Taberna Lounge specializes in unique tapas (listed under "salads" but they're a mix of hot and cold dishes from 3 to 12 euros - try the marzapan popsicles for real dessert treat!) and amazing boutique Spanish wines (Tues-Sat, 12.00-17.00, 19.00-24.00, Sun 19.00-24.00, closed Mondays and closed in August). Frederik is Dutch, born in Columbia, speaks 7 languages fluently (plus some Danish and Flemish) and is an 18 year resident of Toledo. His wine cellar is located in a 1000 year old cistern that used to provide water to the area until 1945. He has special arrangements with unique Spanish wineries you'll never find in North America (glasses range from 1.4-2.8 euros, bottles around 10-15). With over 3600 grapes in the world to try, Frederik said that pinot noirs, cabernet's and chardonnays are too limiting. Expand your palette with Frederik's expertise. Frederik is also an amazing painter and you'll find his work throughout the restaurant (http://www.tabernaelbotero.com, info@tabernaelbotero.com, T: 011-34-925-229-088).
Philip <email>
London, UK 07/08/2005
LeTango Culinary Tour, Madrid
If you are in Madrid and are into food, YOU MUST take the Madrid Culinary Tour offered by LeTango (mentioned in the Spain and Portugal 2005 book www.letango.com) My husband and I are in our 30s and are not "tour people" per se, but our guide was Carlos Galvin, who is seen on the recent Rick Steves Europe episodes with Rick, and he is EXCELLENT. It was just the three of us, and we felt like Carlos was more of an old friend than a tour guide. He speaks perfect English and has wonderful knowledge and a strong passion for Spain, Spanish traditions, and its culinary products. We started by going to several gourmet shops where he explained the various types of olives, ham, seafood, etc- so fascinating. We then went to three tapas bars to sample local specialties (food and drink included in tour cost) By the end we both agreed this was a highlight not only of Madrid, but of our entire trip to Spain. My husband kept saying he wished we had a "Carlos" in every city we visited. Again, if you are into food and wine, or just want to experience Madrid on a more intimate level through the eyes of a local, this tour is for you!!!
Kelley Malay
LaGrange, IL USA 07/01/2005
Tapas in Granada, Spain
Granada, since it is a smaller city, tends to be overlooked as a tourist destination, but it has it?s definite perks. I?ve been studying here for a while and have come to love the tapas here because they?re good and FREE. At most places after a certain time (usually around 7 or 8pm) you can order a drink (beer, wine or soda) and you will recieve free snacks that tend to be filling enough to substitute for a small meal. You can expect to pay about 1,50 to 2 euros per drink and then enjoy the food. My favorite tapas cafes and bars are located a little off the beaten path near Plaza Einstein (one block east of Calle Rondas) but there are other good ones Near Plaza Nueva (Walk east from the intersection of Calle Reyes Catolicos and Calle Gran Via de Colon). The possibilities are endless! My advice is to walk by a number of places and peek at the tapas being served to others. If something looks good, take a seat and give it a go!
Korie Ann Treven
Libertyville, IL USA 06/08/2005
Nicola Cafe Lisbon
I skipped the main Nicola cafe in Lisbon because the Rossio square is dirty and grubby. Right outside the cafe there are your most deformed beggars. It's sad but you lose your appetite as well. We escaped to The Hard Rock Cafe. The famous Belem pastry shop in Belem is very nice, opt for that one.
Marie
Verona, NJ USA 06/01/2005
Summer in Spain
I studied at the Universidad de Salamanca last summer. I would recommend spending some time sitting in the plaza mayor especially at night when it cools off and all the people come out. The leche helado ( milk ice-cream ) with cinnamon sprinkled on top, or the enjoying vino tinto with tapas are to die for as well.
Also, in the summer Sangria is very popular along with a drink they make called Kalimocho which is red wine and coke, or the beer called Mau is very popular and some people even mix it with Seltzer water too.
Basically if you go to Spain try the different foods and keep and open mind because it will knock you off your feet because it's nothing like American food! Enjoy!
Clare <email>
Oshkosh, WI USA 05/25/2005
Cordoba - good cheap eats
Cordoba: good, cheap eats: Ole Kebab is about a block or 2 east of the Mezquita - very good, cheap food
craig reeder <email>
USA 05/17/2005
Disgusting restaurant Vila Velha
Suffered from food poisening twice in the Algarve. Complained to the tourism office but never got an answer. Asked for grilled fish at a restaurant in Sagres and was served a big fish head fried (!) with eyes and teeth and looking disgusting. Complained and they said it wasn't fried, it was "au meuni?re" (haha, bad joke). I am portuguese so I know this is not done in Portugal. Despite not having eaten it, they made me pay around 45$ only for that plate. Avoid, at all cost, this awfull restaurant and it's decadent pseudo-french cuisine.
Cinanina <email>
Lisbon, portugal 05/10/2005
Portuguese Cuisine??
My husband and I lived in Portugal for 6 months just last year. I must admit the food at the restaurants and cafes are very...challenging, being spoiled in America. Almost everything is very salty and hard to find any meal come with decent vegetables. They also love hotdog links that tasted very strange. I don't mean to nag their food. The seafood meals are delicious. Fresh and authentic. Stick with the seafood when you eat out in Portugal. Groceries can be priced as high as the rest of Europe (slightly higher than Spain).
Rika <email>
Seattle, WA USA 05/03/2005
Food
When visiting Rhonda we found a great vegetarian cafe called Relax. The food was creative and delicious. It was located Los Remedios, 27
Barbara Henscheid <email>
Paradise Valley, AZ USA 05/03/2005
Spain
If you are in Seville take a trip with an Australian guy called Paul. He takes you up through the mountains in the Grazalema area to some very pretty villages, good commentary and magnificent scenery
Jack Thomas <email>
New York, NY USA 04/27/2005
Barcelona cooking class and a great tapas place
Just returned from Barcelona. Loved the Catalan cooking class I read about on this site (www.cookandtaste.net). Bega is a friendly and enthusiastic teacher, and she helped us cook a wonderful, authentic meal. Our favorite tapas restaurant was Txapela, near the Placa de Catalunya. Starting at the corner of the square with the big department store El Corte Ingles, walk up the boulevard Passeig de Gracia for about a block. Txapela is next door to the Dunkin Donuts! Sit at the bar and point to what looks good in the glass cases in front of you. There are 51 pictures on your placemat to help you choose, and if you need more explanations, they'll give you the list of English decriptions to match the pictures. Friendly, helpful staff.
Ruth <email>
Konigswinter, Germany 04/23/2005
Food
Just returned from Tenerife ,Canary Islands, Easter 2005. The immaculately clean and spotless family run "TASCA LA RADIO" restaurant and bar situated [diagonally opposite the Sheraton Mencey] on the Rambla del General Franco and Calle Dr Guigou offers a Menu del Dia as well as a la carte. We chose homemade soup or mixed salad,followed by entrecote steak with pepper sauce[steak Diane] and chips[alternative offerings were breast of chicken or squid],a fresh[not tinned] fruit salad AND a bottle of special beer or glass of wine for only 8 euros each. The Sheraton menu del dia was about 30 euros EACH plus cover charge and no drink.. We visited Tasca La Radio 2 days running and only wish we had discovered it before-two blocks away we had paid nearly 30 euros for just 2 x spaghetti with clams,1x clams and 2 x ordinary beer. Tenerife has the highest mountain in Spain,the dormant snowcapped volcano Mt Teide and you can go almost to the top in the cable car then walk the rest of the way.
Suzette
London, UK 03/31/2005
Restaurants in Madrid
Rick already mentions the FRESC SALAD BUFFET is Barcelona, but there are now 2 locations in Madrid around Puerto del Sol. They offer all you can eat salads, pizza, pasta, soup and desert for 8-9 Euros. Since tapas are pricey even at Rick's budget spots, a few meals at FRESC helped keep our food budget down a little.
Sara Keenan <email>
Ben Lomond, CA USA 03/18/2005
Local Tapas Bar
In Summer 2003, we ate at a wonderful "local" tapas bar in Madrid called "La Piconera" at 42 Paseo del Prado across from the Prado. Very inexpensive, but the best tapas we had during our 12 days in Spain! Great wine too! We are returning this summer and plan to visit again. Check it out!
Sherri
Chicago, IL USA 03/15/2005
Vegetarian Madrid
For vegetarians, go IMMEDIATELY to Cafe Artemisa, recommended in Rick's Spain and Portugal book. It's on Calle Tres Cruces off Plaza del Carmen, and is about the best vegetarian food we've had in the world, much less Spain! Ate there 3 nights in a row, with a varied menu and everything absolutely fresh and delicious with a Spanish flair! Also, Cafeteria Europa at Puerta del Sol- predictably fun and good with fun waiters if you joke with them! In general, the food in Madrid, Toledo, and Segovia was awesome- sangria, paella, all kinds of tapas- try it all!!!
Sue <email>
London, England 12/27/2004
tapas and pinxos in the basque country
My favotite treat is the tortilla de patatas! It is an egg and potato dish that can include other things such as ham, peppers, or whatever you choose to include. Of course there are many other great treats that are mentioned here such as paella, fresh mariscos/seafood, fried icecream, and the wide range of tapas/pinxos. I'm surprised to hear that spain is not known for its food. You have to go to the Basque part of Spain - you'll change your mind! They are very proud of their cuisine and ARE known throughout the world for their food and wine.
Katrina <email>
USA 12/03/2004
vegetarian food in evora, portugal
In Evora, Portugal look for tasty, inexpensive vegetarian food at the Jardim do Cha in Largo Dr. Mario Chico, at the rear of the main cathedral and near the Temple of Diana. Walk into the courtyard and enjoy your lunch at a picnic table in a shady grove of orange trees. Soups 1 euro, main dishes (including salad and bread) 3 euros. They also had delicious looking desserts, but we were too full from the meal to sample these.
ellen <email>
new york, NY USA 09/28/2004
Best food in the north.
Spain is more than paella and sherry (jerez)- which you have to try of course, but there's more! Be sure to try authentic sangria and gazpacho in the south. In Spain, especially the north go for seafood-- it's fresh, fresh, fresh! Try anything that involves jamon serrano & jamon iberico(which is like proscuitto, but better), chorizo (unique, sort of pepperonish, but tastier and classier), tortilla (potato omlet) which is much better than it sounds, pollo al ajillo (chicken with garlic), croquetas, and pinxos and tapas which are appetizers of sorts.
My favorite Spanish cuisine is from Asturias: enjoy fabada (bean stew) for dinner, drink sidra (alcoholic sider) and have arroz con leche (rice pudding that is different than what you know) for dessert. You'll be floored!
Joy <email>
Cumberland, NJ USA 09/16/2004
Madrid dining
Madrid tapas tour ? La Oreja de Oro was out of business and Casa Toni is presently a construction site. La Moderna was good, a welcome change from fried tapas and raw fish ? they had ?tacos mejicanos? on the daily menu (not anything like Taco Bell) and a good selection of wines by the glass ? the Plaza Santa Ana area was more inviting than south of Plaza Mayor ? kids playing, vibrant atmosphere. Also enjoyed Sideria La Creacion?s atmosphere, with the buckets to catch the spills from the bartenders pouring the cider from over their heads.
Restaurant Los Galayos in Madrid now has terrazza seating on Plaza Mayor. Excellent 9 euro lunch special including wine ? roast garlic chicken and unfried potatoes for a change.
Robert Scott <email>
Brookfield, WI USA 08/01/2004
Barcelona Tapas Restaurant
I'd like to suggest an excellent tapas restaurant in Barcelona. It is called Celler de Tapas located @ Pl de la Universitat 5 between Plaza Cataluna and Universitat. The food is excellent and yummy and the prices are good. The staff is friendly and helpful.
R. Monje
Atlanta, GA USA 05/31/2004
Basque Sidreria
I am currently studying in San Sebastian, Spain for a semester and my advice to all those who visit the Basque country is to visit a "Sidreria." This is a traditional Basque cider house that serves incredible food like tortilla de bacalao (fish omlet), pescado con pimientos (fish with peppers) and chuleta de buey (a delicious ox or cow steak). You also drink the local cider from enormous oak barrels. The entire experience is wonderful. Both times I have gone there I have met so many Spaniards and Basques and had a great time. If you are ever in San Sebastian, please email me and I will give you the directions to the best Basque Sidreria in all of Pais Vasco.
Bree <email>
San Sebastian, GUIP ES 02/06/2004
"guiso de rabo' in Ronda
My favorite food was oxtail ('rabo'), which I ate with my friend right outside the bullring in Ronda. I guess it was very fresh?
Pimientos de Padr?n seem to be available in the States from a guy in East Palo Alto, California. Have not tried them yet.
Karin Schlanger <email>
Palo Alto, CA USA 02/05/2004