Food Lovers' France
Snails... horse meat... tongue... goose liver paté... stinky cheese.... Even people who like American fast food might enjoy Europe's top cuisine. Share your best treats in France.
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Bayeux
Our trip to Paris and the Normandy area was a food-filled wonderland, but want to especially share our two great(and 1 not so great) eating experiences in Bayeux. Everything about Le Pommier made this our most memorable dinner in Bayeux, expensive and worth it!. The Petit Normand was our second choice for a wonderful menu, great staff yet not so pricy. The ambiance was a bit more casual. However, we were recomended the Asiette Normande by many people and web sites, including this one, but our dining experience there was marginal at best. Surly staff, over-priced food. No one in the restaurant seemed to be enjoying their meals.
Anita
North Fork, CA USA 11/18/2008
9 days of eating in Paris
Dear French Foodies,
I rented an apartment (near Notre Dame) with 4 other women who weren't foodies, which is why I didn't get to eat in as many of my Rick Steves and Chowhound-researched finds as I'd imagined I would. This means that each night I had to go along with the group's choices, which never met my food-obsessed standards. Unfortunately for me, the group was more interested in pigging out on desserts than in sampling what I like to call GREAT FRENCH FOOD.
Since we were staying right down the street from (1) Eric Kayser's organic bakery, I sampled his brioche loaf (I only scored one small piece - the 4 others grabbed and gobbled when I left the room for a minute), his whole wheat and regular baguettes, and a few of his desserts (not that great, in comparison with the outstanding (2) Pierre Herme work-of-art desserts and delicious macarons). Kayser's croissants (which we ate every morning) were always excellent.
I had some (3) Berthillon ice cream (apricot and mango), even though it was chilly and cold outside and I was the only person eating ice cream as I walked along the streets towards Notre Dame. Everyone else was eating hot crepes, which I never got to try, darn it.
I grabbed a falafel (with hot sauce) from (4) l'as du Falafal, the famous falafel place in the Marais (we went early Sunday - so the line wasn't that long), which we ate in the Place de Vosges, sitting on a bench, people-watching.
I tried the macarons from (5) Dallyou (across from the Luxembourg Gardens), and had to go back for more, because they were so mouth-wateringly yummy (chocolate was my favorite). I also tried the macarons from (6) Pierre Herme - and especially adored both the passion fruit and chocolate. I was on a mission to try as many different macarons as I could, I guess, but I was too full to eat any more, so I gave up early on. I also had my favorite apple pastry from (7) Poilane on rue du Cherche Midi. They're on your left, sitting on the wooden counter under the window as you walk in the front door. Don't miss them.
We ate lunch in 3 museum cafes: (8) Cafe Marly at the Louvre (great location, but too expensive and not worth the price - 22 euros for a simple piece of chicken breast with a little salad on the top; 14 euros for soggy, cold haricot verts with a sprinkling of diced red peppers); (9) Musee d'Orsay restaurant - cheaper than the Louvre, and much more innovative. I had dourade in an orange-butter foam sauce, with charred endive - delish; and (10) The Tea Room @ the Musee Jacquemart Andre, where I had quiche, salad, and dessert (4 of us split our desserts, so we each got to taste more).
I took myself out to lunch at 3 highly recommended cafes: (11) Chez L'Ami Jean (near the Eiffel Tower) - expensive @ 43 euros for the formule lunch, but cheaper for the 17 euro blackboard specials, which weren't offered to me, stupid American tourist that I am. There was so much delicious food I could barely eat half of it on my own; (12) Cafe des Musees in the Marais, where I was the only American and where I chowed down on an outstanding 13.50 euro formule of soup, bread, pork roast, roasted red onion, and pureed cauliflower; and (13) Le Pre Verre (near the Cluny museum), where I had another 13.50 euro formule lunch: a small glass of red wine, a small vinegar-dressed potato salad with a generous piece of gravlax on top, a small chicken breast over 4 baked/fried polenta slabs, and a small demitasse cup of decaf espresso.
Dinners were a disappointment, since I was unable to convince the group to eat at restaurants I'd scouted out. We ate at (14) Les Bouqinistes, which was overpriced (over $100/pp) and quite ordinary, in my opinion; (15) L'Epi Dupin, where the chef oversalted the food so much I could barely eat my dinner; a neighborhood place, (16) Chez Rene, where I had a delicious 14.50 euro prix fixe veal stew and fresh spinach (and the waiter gave me a take-home container...apparently a first for him); and (17) Le Refuge des Fondues, which I consider a juvenile, college-crowd-centered fondue place (it's in Montmartre), because you drink wine from baby bottles and eat cheese and/or meat fondue in a noisy, hot little place where you must climb over your table if you leave to go to the bathroom.
I had outstanding cheese from various cheese shops - but I can't remember any names except for (18) Marie Cantin (near the Rue Cler), which had my favorite smelly, runny cheeses, as well as a well-informed staff.
I also bought (and then returned to buy again) exquisite lime-infused caramels from (19) Patrick Roger's chocolate shop at 108 Blvd. St. Germain. I offered one to my seatmate on the airplane ride home, and she swooned with me as they dissolved in our mouths at the same time.
That's my eating diary in a nutshell. As for the museums I visited - I think I checked out eleven of them in eight days - an all-time record. Thank god for museum passes!
Sharron Freeman <email>
West Hartford, CT USA 11/14/2008
A World in a Pan Cooking Class in Paris
For anyone wanting to take cooking classes in Paris, please consider A World in a Pan with Laura Neulat.
I took the Chic Français class for 50 Euros (USD accepted too) in Oct. 2008 and it was excellent. Other classes and market tours are offered for reasonable fees. Class is taught in English in a gorgeous Parisian apartment with a small group of students of all cooking abilities.
http://www.aworldinapan.com
Holly
West Palm Beach, FL USA 11/09/2008
Marguerite's Elegant home cooking: a glimpse of
With Marguerite's cooking class we were so pleased to have the opportunity to get a glimpse of "real" Paris life. It was great to share her home and her knowledge of French food.
Karen
Oregon USA 11/06/2008
La Varangue
We just returned from our annual trip to Paris and once again visited La Varangue, or Philippe's Restaurant, as the owner calls it, in the 7th. This is a unique place--he serves down home, rib-sticking country French food at very affordable prices, with the added plus of the charming atmosphere of an authentic neighborhood bistro. Delicious!
Larry Richard <email>
Wayne, PA USA 11/03/2008
PARIS GREETER FREE WALKING TOUR PROGRAM
I saw articles 2 wks. ago (10/12/2008) in both the San Jose Mercury & San Francisco Chronicle the same day, about a new program in Paris. The program is where Parisians give free walking tours of their city, it's free except for paying any expenses of the resident giving the tour. The tours may include subjects of interest to food lovers. Tours are available in English & about 8 other languages. Site is:
www.parisgreeters.org
I haven't been on one of these tours myself, but I hope to the next time I'm there.
K WRIGHT
SAN JOSE, CA USA 10/26/2008
Paris Cooking Class
My husband and I took a cooking and market class from A World in a Pan in
September. Laura Neulat met the students at the Metro stop across from her apartment. We then went to the open air market where she purchased fresh ingredients for our luncheon. We continued to her apartment where we prepared lunch. There were 5 students, and I think we all had a lovely experience. Laura emailed the recipes to us, and they were waiting for us when we arived home several weeks later.
Rene Miller
Westminster, CA USA 10/21/2008
World in a Pan Class
My husband and I also just took the World in a Pan marketing/cooking class last week with Laura. One of the highlights of our trip and highly recommended. We felt like we'd been invited to a French home for dinner. A neat experience with interesting people.
Judy
Alexandria, MN USA 10/21/2008
Cooking class in Paris
While in Paris in October 2008, I took 3 cooking classes and one stood out above the rest. Cookn with class with Chef Eric Fraudeau is a must for all who are interested in taking a cooking class in Paris. His class size is small, limited to 6 students and he shares a wealth of knowlege on how to shop for cheese, fruits, vegetables, breads, meats, poultry, and seafood. The class starts off at a farmers market where you will discuss and choose what you will make that day. Then you take a 10 minutes stroll to Chef Eric's commercial kitchen, which is small but has everything needed to make a great meal. The class is very hands on and you can expect to help chop, cut, slice, marinate, cook and bake. The end result is a fabulous meal. The menu for my class included the following: Chanterelle Salad, Mussels stew with fish and saffron cream sauce, Marinated quail and duck breast, cheese and wine, and moelleux au chocolat (molten chocolate lava cake). The only negative was that I didn't get a copy of the recipes until 2 weeks later. I was so inspired to duplicate what I had made in class for my family, so the waiting was a bit difficult. However, once I recieved the recipes, they were easy to read and make and well worth the wait. I did have a few questions about the recipes and Chef Eric was good about returning my emails. Cookn with class is one of the few English speaking class in Paris and well worth the price.
Tiana
Newport Beach, CA USA 10/20/2008
Cooking class
If you are interested in food (And who isn't?) and have time when in Paris to spend a wonderful few hours learning more about the how, where and what of buying and cooking, join a class with Eric Fraudeau of Cook'n With Class. It was great fun and I had the best time. Small groups allow for individual attention and a bonus is that you get to explore the amazing food shops around a lovely part of Montmartre as you buy everything you need to prepare a magnificent feast. Bon appetite!
S Tuana
Perth, WA Australia 10/13/2008
Marguerite's Elegant home cooking
Marguerite's cooking class was truly one of the highlights of our Paris trip!! I can re-live my experience over & over with my new recipes!
Lisa B
Sausalito, CA USA 10/10/2008
French dining
My favorite meal in France was at a small bouchon in Lyon. While my unfortunate husband had to work, I sat at an outside table, eating pike quenelles and drinking a " pot du Rose".The meal lasted two hours and I was so struck by my position and wishing it were my life rather than my vacation, I was in tears. Old Lyon is gorgeous, laid back, and perfect for walking and eating inexpensively. I shared an ice cream cone with a pigeon that sat on my table, next to the river, watching Lyon residents dumping their wine bottles into the recycling bins in the early morning air. My husband and I enjoyed our last meal in Lyon, sitting at a cafe next to the one I first ate at by myself. L'Amants de St. Jean and Le Tablier were the name of the restaurants. The staff were friendly and though they could speak some english, we were the only Americans there. We made friends with a French couple and ended the evening playing darts at a pub. In Paris, there are so many ways to eat. We ate crepes from street vendors, snack foods from Asian take away shops, and small cafes. After dealing with the heat and traffic of Paris in July, we escaped to a cafe off the Place Dauphine. There are several to choose from amd the shady square with its strolling violinist seemed miles away from the chaos. It was Paris without the noise. A great place to relax after sightseeing.
Lorretta <email>
Houston, TX USA 10/06/2008
Cooking School
If you enjoy cooking, Cookin’ with Class is a wonderful treat. Cooking is about more than just combining ingredients. It’s about learning where to purchase them, how to select them and how to pare them with other courses. From the moment you meet Eric, you’ll be immersed in a wonderful experience that will make your trip to Paris complete. You’ll participate in planning and preparing a gourmet meal and come away with new recipes as well as friends. You’ll love it!!!
Susan Stofel
Birmingham, AL USA 10/03/2008
World in a Pan cooking
My husband and I just returned from Paris. We were fortunate enough to take a cooking class from Laura at World in a Pan. It was a wonderful experience. We started off by market shopping and picking up all fresh ingredients for our class. The class was limited to 6. It was hands on preparation. Even my husband enjoyed the class although he was reluctant to take it. It will be an unforgettable memory for us. You won't be disappointed.
Jennifer
Delta, BC Canada 10/03/2008
PARIS RESTAURANTS
My wife Elaine, daughter Tara and I recently spent 10 days in Paris. Of course we had to try as many Paris restaurants as possible.
Friends had highly recommended La Varangue at 27 rue Augereau. It turned out to be all they said and more as evidenced by the fact that it was the only restaurant we returned to for a second meal before leaving Paris. The owner, Philippe, made us feel immediately at home and although he recognized he should speak English to us, he appeared to be genuinely pleased that our daughter spoke French fluently and jokingly insisted that Elaine and I speak French as well. Philippe was too gracious to comment on my feeble attenpts to speak the French I had learned 40 years ago in High School. Without going into any great detail about the individual dishes we were served, I can unequivocally say that everything we ate, from the appetizers to the desserts was excellent! The portions were filling and the prices were very reasonable. Given the smaller size of his charming establishment, Philippe was able to give everyone his personal attention. In short, Philippe and his staff made served us with an efficiency and courtesy that is sadly lacking these days in larger restaurants.
We have no hesitation whatsoever in recommending La Varangue to all who may visit Paris. In our opinion you should not leave Paris without having visited La Varangue.
JOHN LISOWSKI <email>
LONDON, ONT USA 09/21/2008
Cooking with Marguerite in Paris
It was such a wonderful experience to take those fresh ingredients and whip up a delightful lunch at Marguerite's cooking school. We had so much fun working as a team in her kitchen and greatly appreciated her excellent instructions and cooking tips.
John and Dina
Winterpark, FL USA 09/01/2008
Cook'n With Class
I am ever the skeptic...how could a cooking class be an enjoyable part of a chance of a lifetime trip to Paris??? Well, believe me, IT WAS incredible! Don and I were in an evening class with two others. We loved the cozy environment. Even though we are pretty comfortable in the kitchen, Eric showed us some great techniques (deboning a quail!!), served us wonderful wines, deliciously fresh foods (mussels and bream!!!), and fed us cheeses for which to DIE. (Don and I LOVED the cheese and all the background Eric gave us!). Would we do it again? IN A HEARTBEAT!!! Don't miss this experience, guys!
don and susan
northeast georgia mountain area, GA USA 08/31/2008
Unexpectedly Good
The food at Constant Cafe (near the Eiffel tower next to hotel Londres Eiffel which is in the book) was delicious. We started with deviled eggs (yep the tasty treat your mom makes) and then we both had sliced tbone with mashed potatoes. My husband finished with chocolate mousse that was so thick we could have plastered walls with it.
I also have to mention the very famous macroons from Laduree, of which I am eating a few right now!
Meagan
Expat living in Germany, USA 08/23/2008
Berthillon Salt Caramel Ice Cream
The Salt Caramel Ice Cream at Berthillon is the hands down the best ice cream I have ever tasted.
Ambrosia <email>
Mar Vista, CA USA 07/26/2008
Excellent fondue in Paris
Nearing Pigalle (not exactly the best part of Paris, but c'est la vie!) is a restaurant called Le Refuge de Fondue, a teeny hole in the wall that only has two communal tables set so close to the wall that the maitre d has to put you in your seat himself. You pay around twenty euros and heres what youll get: an aperitif served with some little hors d'ouevres such as cubes of sausage and cheese, followed by your choice of red or white wine (the only choices, rouge ou blanc) served in BABY BOTTLES. Then you will choose meat or cheese fondue- meat comes with beef and potatoes, cheese with neverending baskets of bread. And, if you have room for dessert (its included in the price, so who doesnt have room?) you will be able to choose from several options including a chocolate gateau and a chocolate ice cream "bombe" type thing. Not to be missed, its a little hard to find on the Rue Trois Freres- its best to ask a local crepe vendor if you actually want to find it.
Christine <email>
NH USA 07/22/2008
Cookn with Class
Here is another must-do post for Eric Fraudeau's CooknwithClass. Like others who have posted, we found this to be a highlight of our Paris 5-day stay. Six hours with Eric and his Italian assistant Pinot was like a special tour through culinary France. Our private 4-person 2-instructor class was just delightful. The shops and markets we shopped in have established relationships with Eric, so they are welcoming to all kinds of questions. We learned to prepare quail, fish, ratatouille, a wonderful orange-based salsa, strawberry tarts, and learned how to pare 5 kinds of cheese with breads and the rest of the meal, wine included. Eric and Pinot are both married to women from NYC, and have lived and worked there and other places abroad, so are beautifully prepared to interact with anyone in English, French, Italian and some Spanish
Mary Ann Hurst <email>
Camden, SC USA 07/17/2008
Best treats
My best treats were the delicious macarons from Laduree of course; the chocolate fondant of the bakerie rue d'auteuil near A world in a pan; and the stuffed turkey rolls from a world in a pan.
Melissa Cobern <email>
Dallas, TX USA 07/09/2008
I recommend...
This was my 4th trip to Paris and here are my highlights:
Drinks, try the Plaza Athene bar. A bit pricey but really nice!
Restaurant, get a reservation at Le Salon in the 13th, very intimate and secluded
Class, try a world in a pan. Definitely worth every cent.
Jeremy
San Diego, CA USA 07/07/2008
Best cooking class in Paris
My mother and I had the best time taking a class at A World in a Pan. A friend of ours who had tried it last November had highly recommended it to us and we sure weren't disappointed! Mom and I really enjoy good food but truth be told we are not the best or most experienced cook. But Laura made it easy for us and we really felt like chefs by the end of the class. I sure won't be quitting my day job but now I know how to do a blanquette de veau! Thank you so much Laura
Melissa and Anne
Malibu, CA USA 07/06/2008
Chef Eric Fraudeau's Cook'n with Class
Our cooking experience with Chef Eric Fraudeau of Cook'n with Class was marvelous . . . even better than I had hoped for. Eric was an excellent guide and teacher as he took us to the various market shops to purchase the ingredients for our meal. Back at his well-equipped kitchen, we each had our own work station. Eric involved each participant in the cutting, chopping, stirring, and so on involved in the preparation of our meal. The meal was incredibly delicious! Everyone going to Paris should definitely include a class with Eric on their "must do" list! My favorite food tip from Eric is that "dessert is not a food" . . . and if it's not a food, it can't have calories!
Susan Freeman
Hondo, TX USA 07/02/2008
Cook'in with Class
What's not to love about France! I recently went to Paris to celebrate my 50th birthday with my sister. On-line, we registered for a cooking class,Cooknwithclass.com w/ Chef Eric Fraudeau. We weren't sure what to expect but it was definately one of the highlights of our trip! We met in the morning in Montmarte where we shopped in the open market for our ingredients and toured the spectacular meat, cheeese, pastry, vegetable, fish & meat shops. We then went back to Eric's studio kitchen and prepared a delicious 5 course lunch. We all had fun together and celebrated our few hours of blissful learning over a wonderful french meal with perfectly matched wines and a delicious assortment of cheese. Chef Eric forwarded the recipes to our e-mails once we returned home. It was truely an enjoyable "french experience" that I highly recommend and I look forward to sharing this meal with my family!
Jeannine Harris
New Vernon, NJ USA 07/01/2008
Cooknwithclass
When you find the information about cookinwithclass.com, don't hesitate. Reserve your spot in class with Chef Eric as soon as possible. Shopping at the open air market and cooking in Eric's cozy kitchen was a super experience. We all chopped,stirred, tasted and cooked together in a casual and laughter filled session. Don't miss Eric's cookinwithclass while you are in Paris!
Susanne Goebel <email>
St. Louis, MO USA 07/01/2008
Cook'n with Class
Two of my children, my sister, and I were signed up for Eric's class. Some of us were apprehensive regarding the level of skill required and the nature of the class: we didn't need to be! We were the class, and Chef Eric Fraudeau could not have been better. He put us instantly at ease and then set us to work making 5 dishes that were even more delicious than they were accessible to the home cook. We considered our afternoon with him to be one of our favorite experiences of our trip. We highly recommend his class!
Kimberly Mauer <email>
Cincinnati, Ohio USA 06/30/2008
Paris- Eiffel Tower area
We had two wonderful meals in this area.First Cafe Constant, which you can get into without reservations only if you come early.139 rue St Dominique Food is superb- I had an incredible asparagus salad and sea bass, my husband duck and pate, with wonderful wine, and a great chocolate dessert, about 80 euros and worth every penny. For a little more, close to 100 euro, Le Bon Accueil (14, rue de Monttesuy) has refined and elegant food, with service to match and wonderful wine - great for your last night because you can walk right over to the Eiffel Tower. We also like a little cafe -le Bosquet 46 avenue Bosquet, with a very varied menu, lovely service, moderately priced.
Phyllis Hancock
Cresskill, N.J. USA 06/23/2008
Near France, fantastic dining in City of Luxembourg
While on a World War battlesite tour in France, we recently visited the Hamm Cemetery outside of the City of Luxembourg and were treated to two exquisite dining experiences.
First was a wonderful and cozy Italian restaurant called Il Richio with "the best Italian food outside of Italy" as a local told us. The pasta with truffles was a memory I will savor for a very long time. Service was friendly, warm, and accommodating. We felt like well fed members of the family!
Our group also enjoyed a fantastic dinner at Clairefontaine where the staff wine-paired a five course dinner of local wines and exquisitely prepared and presented dishes. Members of the party are still raving about the impeccable service, excellent food, and great wine. Another memorable experience that we hope to repeat on our next visit to Luxembourg City.
Karen Lugo <email>
Riverside, CA USA 06/21/2008
Eating in Bayeux and Paris
My husband and I have just returned from a 2-week trip to Europe that included Normandy and Paris.
In Bayeux, La Pergola (Rue St-Jean, bottom of the hill, orange awnings) was wonderful. We split 50 cl of local red wine and a Salad Nicoise (best I've ever had). We each had a Galette (savory crepe); mine was filled with ham, cheese and a fried egg (good); he had the Galette Normandy, filled with ham, cheese, sauteed apples and creme fraiche (fantastic - highly recommended). Meal was less than 50 Euros and we had plenty to eat.
In Paris, it is very difficult to find bad food. The Parisians are serious about their cuisine. Some tips: Our best meal was at La Tour Marbourg Cafe (don't have their exact address, but this is easy to remember: La Tour Marbourg Cafe is located on the Rue La Tour Marbourg and next to the La Tour Marbourg Metro stop). We each ordered the 24 Euro 3-course dinner. The grilled chicken breast is the BEST I've ever eaten and it was served on a bed of amazing risotto (better than what I've had on 16 trips to Italy). The panna cotta dessert was also to die for.
For macaroons (two meringue disks sandwiched together with creamy filling; come in flavors like lemon, raspberry, chocolate, coffee and pistacio), just about every pastry shop offers their version. Large one are 3 Euro in fancy pasty shops; we opted to try our first ones at McDonalds (dropped in to use the bathroom and grab a bottle of water), in the McCafe - 1.80 Euro. AMAZING!
Be sure to try the crepes. We split a choco-banana crepe (at the foot of the Eiffle Tower; crepe filled with thick gooey chocolate sauce and sliced bananas). Yum-O!
Dolores
USA 06/05/2008
Paris restaurants
We recently ate in a wonderful place on Ile St. Louis in Paris-- and it's not in the Zagat guidebook (yet). Called Le Fin Gourmet (42 Rue St. Louis en I'le), prices are reasonable (two can eat for about 50 Euros, without wine), and the food is creative and wonderful. The wait staff is helpful and speaks some English. We highly reccommend it.
Paul J. Morris <email>
Oradell, NJ USA 06/02/2008
“Highlight of our Paris visit!” a cooking class with chef Eric
Chef Eric Fraudeau provides a wonderful venue in which to experience Paris. The class begins with a short discussion regarding food preferences of the participants. Once a few menu ideas are agreed upon, Eric leads the way around the neighborhood shops to collect ingredients - meat, fish, fruits, vegetables, stinky cheese, and bread. This was probably my favorite part of the class - next to eating what we fixed! Eric was very receptive to questions and observations that I'm sure he hears all the time.
Back at the school, everyone contributes to the preparation of the different courses. The flow of the class is neither leisurely nor frantic. It's just right. Culinary skill level is a non-issue. If you can chop onions like a food channel champ, you can be the class show-off. But even if your home-cooking is mostly "add water", Eric will have you feeling confident with a sharp knife in your hand in no time. You will not be disappointed with the results - our meal was fantastic. Do it!
www.cooknwithclass.com
cathy
dallas, tx USA 05/27/2008
Ritz Escoffier- Cooking Class
Gave my son a class at this famous Paris cooking school for his 18th birthday. He took one of their "Pastry 7-9" classes, but they have a large variety to choose from (online registration). There was a translator for him and everything was hands-on involvement. He loved it.
Nancy <email>
Mars, PA USA 05/24/2008
Les Cocottes de Christian Constant
Had incredible meals at this reasonable-priced, innovative restaurant of Christian Constant. Located near Cafe Constant (7th) but very modern bistro with long bar and high tables. Menu is all in French but waiters helpful as long as you appreciate that their English is so much better than your limited French. Must have chocolate dessert. A gem!
Penny
Boston, MA USA 04/30/2008
Cooking Class in Paris
I spent a delightful and extremely convivial afternoon taking a pastry cooking course in Paris with Cook'n With Class (cooknwithclass.com). Based on an on-line search I wasn't sure what to expect but it turned out to be a great experience. Eric Fraudau is a rare item indeed - a talented chef who likes people and enjoys sharing his knowledge and skills. The small numbers make the classes feel very personal and I walked away having acquired some new skills (decadent and delicious desserts and cakes) but also a wonderful additional experience of Paris. Even if not an experienced cook (pastry was my nemesis) you will still acquire some good skills and/or knowledge and won't feel patronised in this environment. An added bonus is that I believe it was great value for money for a 2-3 hr program.
ShellyR
Brisbane, Qld Australia 04/22/2008
A world in a Pan really delivers
Just came back from beautiful Paris and had such a wonderful time thanks to Laura and her "simply cooking" class at A world in a pan. Not only is the food easy to make and incredibly tasty, it also takes place right there in her Parisian apartment in a posh neighborhood! The class is small so everyone gets a chance to really learn, see and participate.
We really had the best time and I definitely recommend this to anyone who wants to spend a fun and unique half day in Paris. I really wish I had had more time to take another class with the visit to the nearby farmer's market.
www.aworldinapan.com
Caroline
Syracuse, NY USA 04/20/2008
Eating out
While in Paris recently, I stayed in the Pigalle district. Although not many restaurants in the area, the Place de Clichy nearby has many WONDERFUL restaurants to choose from. If staying in Paris outside of the usual spots, consider this area for lodging and dining out. It is much lower in price than some of the more frequented tourist spots.
Leslie <email>
FPO, AE USA 04/08/2008
BEST pain au chocolat ever.
Twenty-five years ago I lived in France for a year. I knew when the patisserie around the corner was baking their bread. Though I've traveled quite a bit, I've never again found pain au chocolat that matched those fresh,hot crusty treats oozing chocolate amidst flaky layers. I've tried them everywhere. Finally, last week while staying at a small hotel in the Loire Valley, our hosts served a beautiful breakfast with a basket of fresh, warm pain au chocolate and croissants, and my search was over! Evidently, the cook bakes them fresh every morning. If you have the chance to stay at La Roseraie in Chenonceaux, you will find a charming 200 year old hotel, friendly hosts, and the best pain au chocolate EVER. Thanks Laurent...we'll be back.
Soeur Linda
Provo, Utah USA 04/07/2008
Market visit and Cooking class
My sweetheart and I are just back from a short (too short) Paris vacation. One of the highlights of our stay was our market visit and cooking class with Laura from A World in a Pan at Auteil. We met at the subway exit, and walked to a wonderful local market. Laura showed us local producers, discussed the different produce, and we chose together what we wanted to have for lunch. The group was small (five) and we all had a chance to participate. The class in her home was fun - but we all felt we had learned a lot. The meal was incredible - and yet so simple to prepare. A plus: She's a great entertainer! Barb
Barb <email>
Chicago, Il USA 03/20/2008
Great cheese shop in Auteil
One cheese shop we highly recommend is Fromagerie d'Auteil, on the rue d'Auteuil in Paris 16. This small shop has a stunning collection of cheeses from all over France. The owner wears a "bleu blanc rouge" ribbon around his neck, which means he has been awarded best cheese expert in a cruel contest!
Stop by! It's at number 58 rue d'auteil.
Barb <email>
Chicago, IL USA 03/20/2008
Cook'n with class
My birthday present from my husband was a cooking class in Paris. Lucky for me I found Cook'n With Class with Eric Fraudeau. My husband, daughter and I all took the evening class together. It was a wonderful experience. Our menu Salmon Quiche, Beef Bourguignon all with new techniques, a 6 variety cheese course and nicely selected wine. The cheeses were selected with great care and variety. Cooking is a hobby for our whole family so we are knowledgeable but we were never bored and Eric did answer all our questions. I recommend this class and Eric to all.
Louise,Frank, and Karen Fang
Yorktown Heights, NY USA 03/17/2008
Cook'n with Class is a
One of the things I like to do when traveling is participate in a cooking class. I have done this in Florence, Italy and now, Paris, France. As you can imagine, there are so many cooking schools and classes available, and I made my initial selection based on the information of the web page, and then by the response from the chef, and in this case, chef Eric Fraudeau. I chose the morning cooking class which included a visit to the market. There was no set menu; it depended on what was available in the market and what the class was interested in. Well, it was wonderful. We went to all the markets, picking out the ingredients, deciding on the spot, what to make. It was literally, the butcher, the baker, and the wine maker. Back at the school the fun continued. Sans aprons, we sliced, diced, conversed, and immersed ourselves in a feast of tastes and aromas. The 3 course meal was superb; the interaction with Eric and the other participant fun and informative; there was music in the background; wine on our lips and joy in our souls. Magnifique! Eric's school is in the Montmarte district, so I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the area and didn't even mind the steep climb to Sacre-Coeur. I had also signed up for Eric's cheese and wine tasting class which was a few days later. At this point I though it would be anti-climatic. What could top the cooking class. ANSWER; The Wine & Cheese Tasting. Nine cheeses; 3 wines; assorted condiments, sweet, spicy, and tangy; fruits; nuts; and of course the very affable Eric Fraudeau. Delicieux! I think Cook'n With Class should be on everyone's Paris to-do list.
Barbara Flaxman <email>
Norwalk, CT USA 03/09/2008
Great Time Cooking
My wife Ellen is very much into cooking - I am just into enjoying what she cooks. During our last Paris visit, she had booked (follwoing your advice) cooking classes at A World in a Pan and Cordon Bleu. I was planning to go to a cafe and stroll in the city while waiting for her. When she mentioned to Laura from a World in a Pan that I was in Paris too and on my own, she insisted I join the class. It was one of those Paris rainy days, and I said, why not! Well I surely do not regret having done so. I was in charge of the wine service during what I'd call a delightdul meal - it seems that French men's traditional role - and even got to do things in the kitchen and do them right. I had lots of fun and learned a lot too. I recommend taking a cooking class to anyone a bit curious - and stronlgy recommend if it rains!
Charles <email>
Saint Petersbourg, FL USA 03/05/2008
Dining in Paris
This blog talks about a bunch of interesting restaurants and cafes in downtown Paris that seem to be affordable and really appealing. I checked a few of them out when I was in Paris and was really impressed. http://glamorousglobetrotter.blogspot.com/
Vancouver, USA 02/26/2008
sleeping in Dordogne/eating in Nice
If you go to the Dordogne area in France (which you should, absolutely beautiful!), a MUST stay is 'La ferme de tayac'. Located in Les Eyzies de Tayac, 24620, run by Suzanne and Mike Lamars with help from their son, Paul. Wonderful people, great food, be sure to opt for dinner at least one night. (moderate/budget price) If I had only 2 places in France to go again, it would be here and Paris! Accomodations are a remodeled monastary, beautifully done, peaceful area. web site: www.fermedetayac.com. In Nice, have a great dinner at 'Le pain quotidien', located 1, rue Saint Francois de Paul, 06300, Nice, telephone 04-93-62-94-32. The wonderful owner is Stefano Romero, with a gorgeous waiter, Nicholas
Liz <email>
Ridgefield, wa USA 02/04/2008
eating & sleeping in Dordogne area/ eating in Nice
In the Dordogne area of France, a must stay is 'La ferme de tayac', a beautifully restored monastary, with great breakfast and (opt for) a fantastic dinner. The wonderful owners are Suzanne and Mike Lamars with help from son Paul. Located in the small town of Les Eyzies de Tayac (24620), near Sarlot. Website: www.fermedetayac.com. If I only had two places to visit in France again, it would be La ferme de tayac and Paris! In Nice, we had splendid dinner at 'Le pain quotidien', located 1, rue Saint Francois de Paule, 06300, telephone 04-93-62-94-32. Great owner, Stefano Romero with a gorgeous waiter, Nicholas!
liz <email>
ridgefield, wa USA 02/04/2008
Followed your advice for cooking classes in Paris
I followed your advice, dear Food Lovers, and booked a cooking class and market tour (actually I ended up taking THREE classes) with a World in a Pan during my last visit to Paris. I had fun, lots of fun, met fellow travelers who were food lovers like me, and learned a few tips and good recipes (I have tried them back home and they are a great success).
I also signed up for a class at Escoffier's at the Ritz and enjoyed the setting, decor, and atmosphere (and learned a few sophisticated tips).
Loved both experiences!
www.aworldinapan.com
www.ritzparis.com/jump_to.asp?id_target=1911&id_lang=2
Bonne appetite!
Martha Ines <email>
LA, CA USA 01/30/2008
Best Expeirerence
I'm not sure if this is the right spot for this cause I don't have the name of the place we actually ate at, but go to Pau, go to Pau, go to pau, go to Pau!! At the base of a castle and in the alleys that ran between the buildings and under the bridges there is a resturant district that can only be discribed as "that scene from that movie"; brick and coble-stone, street performers (that were not annoying or in your face for tips), the food was incredible, and the people working knew less English than we did French and would make anyone wonder why everyone thinks the French are rude.
Grant <email>
Baton Rouge, La. USA 01/29/2008
great food, including vegetarian
My husband and I discovered a wonderful Lebanese restaurant, Sous le Cedre, at 15, rue de Babylone, 75007, Paris. It's family run with great food, including vegetarian options. There is a cozy dining room in back. Friendly atmosphere and the best food we had in Paris!
LR
USA 01/27/2008
Great Secret Restaurant in Loire
We were lucky enough to stumble across this little gem of a restaurant, Auberge de Trois Marchand, in the tiny town of Herbault, about 10 miles from Blois. We were shocked to discover the restaurant has a website, http://www.restaurant-herbault.com/. The food was amazing and inventive! It was far superior to anything we had in Paris and much less expensive. We were the only non-natives in the restaurant, and the staff speaks no English, but we managed to get by just fine with a little pointing and frequent "mercis". Enjoy!
John <email>
Seattle, WA USA 01/26/2008
cooking school paris
We took part in the morning cooking experience led by Chef Eric in Paris, and found it to be a real delight. He was very accommodating to the varied likes and dislikes of the class members, and thus we collectively came up with a lovely menu while we stood at the metro stop near his school. Our shopping experience at the fresh food markets in the neighborhood was unlike any we had enjoyed before, and Eric was very helpful in teaching us how to make good food selections in a French market. The class itself was partly a cooking lesson and partly a social interaction with a fun group of people. We had a blast, ate a divine meal, and learned a little bit along the way. Plus we now have several recipes to add to our toolkit. We would highly recommend this class to anyone who loves to cook, loves to eat or just loves to meet great people.
You can find it at:www.cooknwithclass.com
cathy
Mineapolis, Mi USA 01/23/2008
Cafe Constant - 7e arrond. - Paris
While we were in Paris in October 2007, we stopped in (without reservations) at the Cafe Constant - 139, Rue St Dominique in the 7th - a short walk from our hotel on rue Cler. It is 2 doors down from Chef Constant's very expensive Le Violon D'Ingres. IT WAS THE ABSOLUTE BEST FOOD WE HAD IN PARIS!! My husband had lamb and beans and I had duck with rice. Out of this world! and at about 1/3 the price of the really high end restaurants for very high end food! The whole meal including a glass of wine and coffee was well under $100 euro. We will absolutely be back, and strongly recommend this place to anyone (although, I'd call for reservations if you don't want eyes rolled at you!).
Emily
Portland, OR USA 01/21/2008
Best Kept Secret in the 7th
Try the pain traditien at the bakery-cum-cafe at the corner of Avenue de la Bordonnais and Rue de Monttessuy about a half-block north of the Eiffel Tower. It was just over a euro in mid-2007. Wonderful when fresh!
WB <email>
Upper Midwest, WI USA 01/18/2008
Les Abeilles
We have stayed several times in the village of Sablet in Provence. Last time, we ate at a new restaurant that is recommended on Patricia Wells Website, Les Abeilles. It was wonderful. My husband had pigeon (he is very adventerous) and I had lamb. The entire meal was lovely, and we sat in the courtyard to eat, as did everyone else. If you google the name, there is a website with details. I heartily recommend this place.
Sue
Springfield, VA USA 01/17/2008
Nicolaus Wine Shoppe
We spent four days in Paris. Two nights we ate at Nicholas' Wine Shop in the Bercy Village. It started serving early and was still open on a Sunday at 10 pm. Most Nicholas' Wine Shops just sell wine, but this one had a restaurant as well. Each item had suggested wine by the glass from 2-5 Euros. The escargot and cod with mashed potatoes were particularly good
Thea Sinclair
Hickory, NC USA 01/01/2008
la Terrasse
We tried to eat Christmas Eve dinner there. Dreadful is my best word for the experience. We live in Paris and took guests, had a reservation. We were put in an upstairs room with other English speakers--reached by stairs with a dirty, bathroom smelling worn carpet. I had to ask three times for water. The French Onion soup was lukewarm and had an odd, not good flavor. My mussels arrived mostly cold. Our friends' meals were below average. I am embarassed because there are so many good bistros and restaurants in Paris. The Rick Steves' guidebook hangs in this restaurant's window. The graffiti wall says Rick eats there. I cannot recommend la Terrasse to anyone and will not return. Grisly is a good word.
Pam
Paris, USA 12/24/2007
Cafe Du Marche
It is nice, picturesque and very good food. Just try le plat du jour (9 euros), and you'll go out happy. I have seen Confit du Canard as an interesting experience, too. For desert, ask for profiteroles or creme brulee, and you will see why the menu here doesn't have to be sophisticated to have a good lunch in Paris. The ambiance is simple and relaxing. Located on the corner of Rue Champ de Mars and Rue Cler.
Edgar
Miami, FL USA 11/12/2007
Restaurant near Rue Cler
In Paris, a short walk from the Tour Eiffel is the restaurant LA LITOTE (that means understatement, Why ?) 24 rue Bosquet.Provencal flavors. I had a marvellous prix fixe dinner with Crispy warm goat cheese, red mullet fillets Nicoise and for desert a WONDERFUL Rosmary's creme brulee.Truly a heavenly desert! An English language menu was available. One of the highlights of my two weeks in France.
Briggs
St Paul, MN USA 11/07/2007
Cafe du Marche
We found this cafe by watching one of Rick Steves' videos. We had lunch at Cafe du Marche located in Rue Cler. Good food at reasonable prices. Yummy desserts. Great place to spend a lovely afternoon. Unfortunately we couldn't find the La Serre Restaurant, we were told it was out of business.
Katia
Miami, FL USA 11/06/2007
Some of the best food my husband and I had while in Paris recently were the ready-made sandwiches, pastries such as pain au chocolat and of course the coffee from the various food kiosks in the Gare de Lyon. Our hotel was part of the Mercure chain (excellent value) and was right next (in fact it was actually part of the original building)to the train station. We can't wait to get back to Paris!
Mary Louise Fischer <email>
Venice, FL USA 10/30/2007
Josselin's creperie in Paris
Our first night in Paris, we ate at Josselin's (67, rue du Montparnasse). It's a traditional creperie and was completely amazing! The street is filled with creperies, but none were as full with patrons (mostly French) as Josselin's. I believe there is a satellite a few doors down (Petite Josselin's) but I don't know if it's the same or not. The waiter was helpful and friendly, not what most expect French waiters to be, and the food was delicious and surprisingly filling. The atmosphere was fantastic. It was a fantastic place for our first meal in Paris!
Becca
Torrance, CA USA 10/16/2007
Amboise dining
Here are three good restaurants we enjoyed in Amboise in Sept. 2007
La Cene on the rue Rabelais for good Italian food with fun service. Excellent home made desserts.
Le Parvis on an alley just below the chateau. Come early or make a reservation for a wonderful dinner. Grilled salmon was very good.
And Bigot for tea and dessert.
We also recommend the B&B Le Vieux Manoir for a lovely stay.
Robin
Rancho Cucamonga, CA USA 10/16/2007
Paris - Chez Janou
thank you RS for the recommendation for Chez Janou in Paris. We ate there twice, it was so good!
Love the crowded, youthful jovial atmosphere and the food was excellent both times. Make sure to order the chocolate mousse for dessert -- i'm not even a chocoholic and it was the best dessert I've ever had.
It can be a challenge to find, but it's right behind the Place de Voges on a curvy little street. We felt like we were treated like neighbors, not tourists -- even though we speak caveman french at best. A pleasure.
On another foodie note -- we ate (and drank) everything we could find while we were in France and were never disppointed. even the mundane was terrific -- Paris has the world's best take-away tuna sandwiches!
christi
benicia, ca USA 10/15/2007
wonderfull diner at la litote
Our best diner in paris.
We stay in rue cler area and we try some rick steves guidebook mentioned restaurant. The greatest was La litote rue bosquet (between rue cler and avenue bosquet). We loved the Foie gras with Earl grey and all the desserts we've tasted.
Wonderfull small restaurant
nick & pam
venice, flo USA 10/11/2007
Bayeux
Our two favorite restaurants in Bayeux are Assiette Normand on the corner of rue des Chanoines and rue Leforestier and Le Petit Normand at 35, rue Larcher. Both had wonderful, reasonably priced 3 course meals.
Patty
Steilacoom, WA USA 10/10/2007
A great meal for good price
We just got back from two weeks in France. We had a great trip and found the food and the people great. We were looking for good value with our dinners, especially as the Euro is killing the US Dollar with the exchange rate right now. While in Amboise, we stayed at “Hotel la Breche” located near the train station. They offer a dinner around 20€ that was one of the better values we had during our vacation. For the price, we were impressed. R Klinge Wenatchee, WA
Rick Klinge
Wenatchee, Wa USA 10/07/2007
$ La Terrasse du 7eme Paris
We had dinner two nights at the $ La Terrasse du 7eme . The first night the food was quite good, prices reasonable and service attentive. On the second night the food was average and the service was the absolute worst we experienced in France.
Dave N <email>
St Albert, ab Canada 09/26/2007
French food
Honfleur:
Our stay was with Madame Lilliane at the Saint Catherine B&B (a Rick Steves recommendation). We had 2 memorable meals at le bouillon Normand. Located on a small square just behind the bassin. We had a fabulous 3 course meal for 16 euros/person. The seafood was fresh and delicious. The proprietors were delightfully friendly and on our second night we were treated to a complementary aperitif. Two of the best meals of our 2 week stay. The fondant au chocolat was to die for! Highly recommend trying. Make sure to get reservations if it is a weekend nite.
Paris: We tried Leo le Lion-also recommended. The food was great and the service was friendly and prompt. We found it rather pricey. Cost for 2 was about $175 for 3 courses and relatively inexpensive wine-but this was Paris. Definitely need reservations-only seats about 30 people. Honfleur however won out.
Dinan- had a fantastic meal at 'the Cottage' just off the river harbor area on rue du jerzual. Also a 16 euro menu and everything was perfect. If you love seafood- Normandy is the place for you. Reservations needed unless you want to sit in a corner upstairs.
S. Wheeler
Oklahoma City, Ok USA 09/25/2007
Battlefield Tours-Normandy
Overlord Tours of Normandy:
I would highly recommend this tour group for a day long battlefield tour. Alain and Oliver were our combined guides and we found them highly informed and impassioned about this part of history. They are collectors of WWII memorabilia and we found the french perspective quite interesting. Alain's father had been a member of the resistance and he was full of information.
There were only 6 persons on this tour and we experienced an intimate look at the events of June 6, 1944.
S. Wheeler
Oklahoma City, Ok USA 09/25/2007
Cafe Constant is an eye opener
Have to take exception to the criticism of Cafe Constant. For us it was one of the finest dining experiences we had. Service was spot on, the portions were French, not American, and after an entree, a plat, and a dessert, we went home satisfied, not bloated. I had a languoustine ravioli entree and sea bass on polenta - they were succulent! My wife had a mushroom, artichoke and fennel salad for an entree and a "crunchy shrimp" plat - the salad was the best experience of the night. Finished with a rice pudding better than any we'd had before and something I can only describe as dollops of mousse in a light vanilla creme. With a 50cl carafe of Sav Blanc, all came to 75E. Great service too. Wonderful, we'll definitely go back.
Doug Scott
Seattle, WA USA 09/21/2007
Vegetarian and Indian food in Paris
If you want vegetarian food anywhere, just find an Indian restaurant. For instance:
There are many Indian food restaurants near Gare du Nord in Paris. From the front of the station turn left and walk past the old station building containing a Marche to the big intersection and turn left again. Along the right side of the street are a half-dozen for you to choose from and all offer standard fare that will suit any desire for typical North Indian or Punjabi-style cooking.
The first one, I think, is Thaly, and it is a new name because the business stamp says Sarl Simi Cafe-Restaurant de la Gare. The menu contains all the standards and more. What caught my eye was a selection of South Indian dishes.
I don't know about Paris in general, but in most of Europe and in the US, South Indian cooking is difficult to find. The reason is that the rationale of the cuisine is what's hot--spicy hot--is good for you. The taste buds of most Americans and Europeans tend not to care for the sensation.
My wife and I chose to order dosas, spelled on the French-oriented menu, dosai. We both ordered a Masala Dosai, which contains some potato and other bits of vegetables and I ordered an extra Onion Dosai, thinking of the dosas we had tried elsewhere that were mostly the thin crepe-like bread rolled around a minute amount of vegetable or filling.
The Thaly dosai came on a silver plated platter with two chutneys and a small bowl of Sambar (lentils in a soup). There was a hot chutney and a cool chutney, the hot being red and the cool being light green. The sambar was also hot. The masala contained bits of green and red peppers. So, as my wife says, "it was a bit spicy."
My first shock was how much filling the dosai had. It was a meal for anyone on a diet--or a budget, since the price in September 2007 was 4.50 Euros. The second shock was one I have long sought in vain: Foreburner as the hot chutney touched my lips, Constant flavor as the roof of my mouth and tongue received endless waves of delicious torture. And afterburn as the bites were swallowed, bringing heat to my whole body and sweat to my forehead.
Mind you, this was probably a mild preparation for anyone used to the South Indian style of cooking. My wife, whose initial tolerance is fairly good, thought it was medium hot. But later she suffered from pepper irritation, while I did not. Everyone reacts diffrently. What you must remember is that there are many diffrent spices at play and the palate that is prepared can discern a wide variety of flavors and sensations.
By the time the Onion Dosai came, it was a struggle to complete the meal. We shared the last dosai and my wife didn't order a dessert, but I had to sample one, at least. On the menu it was called Gateau Indien, but it was a barfi, sweet but not too much so. I also had a Mango Lassi with the meal, a Kingfisher beer and a cup of standard Indian tea to finish. Sugar was available, but not mixed in the tea. It was perfect when I added two tablets of sweetener that we always carry.
I cannot recommend this place highly enough, especially as it is very convenient to two rail stations and serves food throughout the day, not just by French times. The atmospere is delightful as well. One table is set aside as a shrine to Ganesha. A bowl of flowers sweeten the entrance and the staff is comfortable in French, English and probably much more.
Charles Griffin <email>
Daytona Beach, Fla USA 09/19/2007
French lasagna
I have tasted the best lasagna on this earth - not in Italy, but in France, silly!
If you're every in Aix-en-Provence and get a craving for lasagna, walk yourself to the Forum des Cardeurs, right off of the Place d'Hotel de Ville. Hop on over to Chez Laurette and be amazed.
Try the Tiramusu for desert, too!
martine
lancaster, pa usa 09/19/2007
Food without reservations
• Food: We do not believe in making reservations to eat in restaurants. This is one situation when we believe in spontaneity. During the day we surprise ourselves by walking in any restaurant that has what we would like on the menu (must be displayed outside) at an affordable price. Remember: we have to pay the credit cards later. At night we usually do not stray too far from the Eiffel Tower / 7e area. One special note: We went back the first night to La Terrasse, (at the corner of avenue de la Motte-Picquet) a café right across from the Ecole Militaire, and were disappointed that the menu had changed drastically. We complained to the waiter and, low and behold, the propriétaire, Monsieur Xavier, came to our table and explained the circumstances. He also promised us an unforgettable meal. He also mentioned that Risk ate there recently. Coincidentally, my wife and I were renewing our vows at the Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Prés (www.eglise-sgp.org) the next day and decided to make two birds happy with one meal. Get it! Monsieur Xavier was absent the next night (of the renewal), but the maitre d’ was aware of our arrival. Well! We were treated like royalties and ate a meal that culminated into a gastronomic delight.
• Food photo: Tired of describing after previous trips what we ate in Paris, especially the pastry, to our children and friends, I took photos of almost everything we consumed. We went to LeNôtre (www.lenotre.fr) every day. There is one at the Rue Cler area at 36, avenue de la Motte-Picquet. It is like walking into heaven while you are still alive. Visually stunning. I am an amateur cook and pastry-cook. I almost cried. And we can’t even afford the really expensive places. I understood right away, without tasting anything yet, why the French chef is an artist. Every day we bought two or three desserts that we took home (to the apartment). There I displayed them on the dining table and I took a picture of each. Then we ate them. Glorious. We did the same at LaDurée (the one at the Champs Elysées is too crowded; try the original one, the one near La Madeleine church at 16, rue Royale), and at the other local boulangeries and pâtisseries we encountered during our walks. We ate a lot. We easily switched from gourmets to gourmands. Just like camels drinking water as they are about to go to the desert. In case you are wondering about our weight, we each lost a pound or two. We walked for about 8 to 10 hours per day. Hello!
jean-frantz <email>
Staten Island, NY USA 09/18/2007
Great restaurants in Paris
We just got back from 2 weeks in Paris and thanks to this website and recommendations from friends, we had a number of really memorable meals. On the economy end, we revisited La Varangue in the Rue Cler area (27 rue Augereau I believe). We first discovered this place about 6 years ago and have revisited it each time we go. The owner, Philippe, is charming, and has recently renovated the place. It looks great. The food is consistently good. We ate there several times, and I think it is one of the best kept secrets in Paris. The vegetable quiche (tarte aux legumes) is the best I've ever had anywhere. And the chocolate cake is to die for!
We also had a fantastic meal at Le Christine in the 6th (more expensive, but well worth it) and at a new place in the Marais district (4th) called Carre des Vosges. Both were outstanding in every respect.
Larry Richard <email>
Wayne, PA USA 09/13/2007
Eating and Exploring in Dordogne
We had some great meals during our August trip from Lyon to Dordogne to Bordeaux. Most memorable were the outside terraces at the Esplanade in Domme and the Bistrot in Rocamadour-great food combined with 3 star views. Our picnic beside the Gironde of jambon, pain and cheese accompanied by freshly purchased Cru Bougeous wines in Saint Estephe was also fantastic. All were made possible by great weather. Le Perigord near Roque Gageac was a find - comfortable hotel with pool, great restaurant, extremely warm personable staff at a very reasonable price. 3 star comfort at 2 star price. A great place from which to explore the heart of the beautiful Dordogne valley.
Don Edmonston <email>
Atlanta, Ga USA 09/13/2007
great restaurant Rue Cler area
MY wife and I re-visited Paris this year and stayed in the Rue Cler area (we think it's the best area in Paris). Le Florimond located at 19 av de la Motte-Picquet(mentioned in Rick's guidebooks) is an absolutely fabulous restaurant in every respect. Not cheap - a great meal for two will cost about 75-90 euros plus drinks & wine but well worth it. We ate there five times during our two week stay and I had five different menus - each one as good as the others. Tell Pascal, Laurent and Magalie that Russell and Helen and Rick sent you.
Russell Smart <email>
Greenville, SC USA 09/11/2007
An interesting food experience in Paris
My husband and I arrived in Paris via the Eurostar. Our hotel, one of the Mercure chain, was located at Gare de Lyon. We checked in and went out exploring, our first stop was a cafe in the train station (Bleu Express?). We hadn't eaten in nearly 12 hours and decided to just jump in and order something in French. A sausage arrived with frites and a small dish of mustard sauce. The presentation was of course lovely but I had a hard time eating the sausage since it had such a strong flavor and was nearly raw! My husband didn't like his either but he ate his and then finished mine. However, we just chalked it up to another interesting experience in the most beautiful city in the world! Food-wise for the rest of the week we had some terrific Italian food (my birthday dinner) in the Latin Quarter near the Musee Cluny, two excellent meals in the 7th, plus two wonderful lunches in outdoor cafes near the Louvre. Breakfast was my favorite meal and always taken at one of the stand-up coffee bars in the Gare de Lyon (before we would board the metro for the day's destination) and often we would just purchase sandwiches and drinks at the shops or bakeries in the train or metro stations and eat in our room. We had a truly wonderful time and can not wait to go back!
Mary Louise Fischer
Venice, FL USA 09/08/2007
Wine villages near Colmar
Had the best meal of a 2 week trip to France in the little wine village of Turkheim (near Colmar.) The chef-owner of A L'Homme Sauvage on Grand Rue speaks good English & popped out of the kitchen to make recommendations & answer menu questions. We loved Colmar, Munster & the other wine villages.
Lucie Butler
LA USA 09/04/2007
Hilltop restauant outside Nice with great view of sea
We're currently in Menton, France. I seem to recall a Rick Steves travel episode where he spoke about a great restaurant around the hills outside Nice, with great views of the sea. Can anyone remember or identify the restaurant? Thanks.
Wayne Hunter <email>
Vancouver, BC CAN 09/04/2007
cooking class paris
Last week, I was in Paris, and my wife and daughter wanted me to go take a cooking class with them. It was a lot of fun, Eric (the chef instructor) was nice and competent, we went to the market to get ingredients, and then we cook together a wonderful meal that we had with a nice bottle of wine. It was a great experience, the highlight of our trip in Paris.
Eric site; www.cooknwithclass.com
enrique estrada <email>
Mexico DF, MX 09/02/2007
Cooking Classes in France
For great recipes, or those interested in taking cooking classes in France check out:
www.aworldinapan.com
For market visits and cooking classes in Paris check out:
www.elegantcooking.com
I'll be returning to Paris this fall and have succesfully found fabulous places to dine in France thanks to all of your posts! Happy Travels!!!!
Victoria L. Cooksey
Author of: Cooking with Cooksey
www.angelfire.com/stars4/victorialcooksey
Victoria L. Cooksey <email>
Eureka, IL USA 08/22/2007
Wonderful Food- The Grizzli Cafe
My wife and I just got back from 3 weeks in Europe, 1 week of which was spent in Paris. By far and away our best food experience was in the Grizzli Cafe in the Marais (4th). Great ambiance in an interesting district is accompanied by tasty tapenade, olives, bread, and very good and inexpensive wines. The outstanding menu has delicious starter salads, larger dinner salads, wonderful entrees. All this served by charming and gracious waiters (the hardest working waiters in Paris). We went there at least 4 nights. The Grizzli is a must for anyone who wants to experience great food at a relaxing pace. We will always go back.
Frank & PiLarr
Laguna Beach, CA USA 08/12/2007
Vegetarian in Paris
My husband and I got back from Paris two weeks ago. We are vegetarians and were traveling with carnivores, so we had many adventures with menus and staff at some of the best restaurants in town. It is entirely possible to order off of the regular menu at most of the places we saw. As long as you eat eggs, cheese, or both you can stay happy and well fed all over town. Many restaurants now highlight the vegetarian dishes on the menu.
I'd especially like to mention the Tomato Tarte Tatin at Les Philosophes in the Marais and the Ratatouille and Poached Egg at Cafe Louise near the Palais Royale in the financial district.
The only truly disappointing meal we ate in the week we were there was at a vegetarian restaurant, Le Grenier de Notre Dame. We'd seen it recommended in several guidebooks and had looked forward to eating there since our last trip to Paris in 2004. The service was grudging and perfunctory. The food was what one would have expected to find in a natural foods restaurant in California circa 1976. The place has been there since 1978, so that makes sense. I don't think they've changed the menu in all that time. It was also one of the most expensive meals we've ever paid for on either side of the Atlantic. It's an odd irony that vegetarian cuisine in the States is on a much higher level than we've found in Europe generally. It's as if people there don't even think of trying to eat outside their vegetarian comfort zone. Wake up, people! There's a whole world of food out there that doesn't taste like it was cooked in a time warp. Chefs in regular establishments are perfectly capable of creating excellent vegetarian fare with the wonderful vegetables, cheeses, fruits and other raw materials available to them and they enjoy the chance to prove it.
The last dinner we ate in Paris was at Les Allobroges in the 20th, not known for their vegetarian menu. Chef created a plate just for us and Madame made sure our courses were timed with our friends' so that our wine would match up. It was a lovely meal that we would have missed if we hadn't taken the chance.
Victoria Alvey
Princeton, TX USA 08/10/2007
Paris for the picky eater....
I am picky eater, my fiance is not. But after several days of interminable cafe service (even when we explained in French we had a deadline) and seeing EVERY cafe menu with EXACTLY the same menu items no matter whether it was Greek, or French or Italian- we gave up.
We ate every morning the rest of the week at the bakery chain "Paul", whose pastries are worth the cost of the plane ticket to Paris and then got a chef/chicken salad there or at another bakery during the day with pastry for late night snack and stored them in our mini-bar. ALso made a visit to the McDonalds next door when we arrived home late after celebrating our engagement on the carousel at the Eiffel Tower.
The salads were fabulous and a nice way to end our long days w/o waiting forever for a waiter...
Angela
Atlanta, GA USA 07/31/2007
GELATO IN PARIS
Wow! Great Pistachio at Pozzetto! you do not see the icecream but it tastes!
Smooth and fresh. Fantastic. I went to their new shop near the Bastille, in rue de Lapp (Lappe?).
andrew
columbus, ohio USA 07/22/2007
cooking in Paris
My family of five is presently in paris. We have just come home from one of our best experiences since our visit here. We spent the evening with Eric Fraudeau, owner and Chef instructor of Cooking With Class, school of cooking. We actually loved it so much we have done it twice since our arrival. Eric teaches you to cook classic french cuisine. The menu is based on your preferences and involves four courses. The first night we had cold asperagus soup, pasta with mussels,shrimp and white fish, a selection of cheeses and a chocolate tart with raspberry chantilly cream. Tonight we had cornish hens, beef tenderloin with potato gratin and baked tomato with garlic and basil. Another selection of cheeses and baked peaches cooked with cream. Dinners were served with juice,water, wine and coffee. The atmosphere was relaxing, fun. Eric can be contacted at eric@cookwithclass.com or at +33 0 687 86 81 75.
Caroline
London, Ont Canada 07/22/2007
Steak Tartare
For tips on Steak Tartare in Paris:
http://parissteaktartare.blogspot.com/
Where would you say you had the best steak tartare in Paris? If you have time please write a comment.
Merci !
Chris Wells <email>
Vienna, Austria 07/20/2007
Hotel Du Louvre Resturant-75paris 1
Lets start out by saying I avoid eating hotel food,well my daughter and I walked by the Hotel Du Louve Resturant located to the right of the Louve
after completing our mueseum tour and saw such faboulous looking food on the tables, looked at the competiuon on that street and went back, had to sit outside as they were so jam packed.It was one of the best meals of our trip.
She had a french country cassolet dish with four different kinds of sausages w/boiled potatoes ,saukraut,baby carrots -they servered her the whole casserole dish! It tasted as great as it looked,I had a bowl of sage,butter and cheese raviolis that were covered in a layer of toasted cheese-WOW every bite was heaven-I have never tasted raviolis this good(not even in Italy).It was pricey but not out of line worth every euro and very lovely enviorment-Great service also! and the dessert was also fabulous!can't wait to return
Terry Wynne <email>
Richmond, ca USA 07/18/2007
Resturant Thoumieux
Sorry Rick but we were very disapointed in this recomendation,it was just ok and very pricey,service was rude at best ,did find the decore nice and loved the house cat that sat on the stairs watching every thing.They were twice the price of Hotel Du louve Resturant and no where near the quality-We were told to dress up and everyone else came in grubby clothes-made us feel out of place
Terry <email>
Richmond, ca USA 07/18/2007
Le Cafe du Marche
very nice place for breakfast-we suspect the owned the open air dinner place right next to them a very neighbors hood type of out door cafe-food was very good and cheap!I had excellent salmon.
Terry <email>
Richmond, ca USA 07/18/2007
Resturant @ Du Musee D'Oray
Very pleasantly surprised by the quailty lunch we had at the Du Musee-I believe this was a Rick Steves recomendation
terry wynne <email>
richmond, ca USA 07/18/2007
Le Bosquet
The Le Bosquet restaurant that the Rick Steves Paris guidebook recommended was absolutely wonderful. With the current exchange rate between the dollar v. the Euro, this place was a great value. The French onion soup was outstanding and a huge portion. The specials are also a great value. Once we went there, we came back three times for dinner. Staff is personable and house wine very good. If you are in the Rue Cler area this is the place.
Bruce
PA USA 07/13/2007
great jewel of restaurant near Pompidou
Le Petit Marcel had the best waiters of any we found and good food at this Cafe. It is located at 65 Rue Rambuteau near the Pompidou centre. There were no other english speaking people in the place, which is always a good sign of a restaurant!
Laird
USA 07/08/2007
Paris restaurants
Cafe Constant in the Rue Cler neighborhood was a disappointment. We ordered from the 14 euro menu, and received miniscule portions (the food was ok but we needed to go find more food after dinner). I ordered red snapper and the fish was no larger than a small sardine, and came with less than 1/2 cup of couscous. Others in our party received similar tiny servings (and we are not the "all you can eat buffet diners "!!)
After this experience we generally ate at the sidewalk bistros and cafes and had great meals, adequate quantity and similar price.
Jeanne Harmon
Kent, WA USA 07/05/2007
La Cantine Russe, Paris (restaurant)
La Cantine Russe, Paris (restaurant)
La Cantine Russe 26, Avenue New York You enter a narrow arch under the small, internally lit, sign declaring "La Cantine Russe", although the large brass plaque on the front of the building declares it the "Conservatoire Rachmaninoff". Halfway down the short alleyway toward what looks like a tea garden (we were too hungry to explore further!), you turn right, go down the stairs, and enter the restaurant. The food is Russo-French fusion and wonderfully prepared. The vodka is good, too. Prices were reasonable (about €15-20 for a main course). You can order in Russian, French, or even English. The atmosphere is marred only by a wide screen tv on the back wall, but it was playing Russian language opera excerpts. We would happily feast there again!
J. Sikorski
Mason, OH USA 06/30/2007
new find by the tower
just found a little beauty i'd never seen in all my visits to the neighborhood. three steps from the eiffel tower, the cafe de mars (11 rue augereau, in the seventh) is run by two brothers (one in the kitchen, one behind the bar), their dad, and a majestic black mastiff to greet you at the door. rack of lamb in a pastry shell, giant scallop carpaccio, filet mignon topped with foie gras, the obligatory escargots, the works. this kid's a whiz.
joshua
new york, ny USA 06/29/2007
Gelato beats Icecream in Paris
Gelato-Real Stuff-in Paris
My girlfriend was travelling on the "fresh from the press"the Lonely Planet and I must admit they had this fantastic tip of Pozzetto, the best gelato in Paris. Check it out. Far better than anything I had ever in my life!. You find the addresses on their website: www.pozzetto.biz
laura
madison, wi USA 06/28/2007
Chez Janou: the good and the bad
Chez Janou was good and not so good. My wife, my 19 month old, and I went there 3 times. The first time we went we were told that the wait would be "very long." After some proding the waiter told me about 1 hour. We sat down after 25 minutes. The food was excellent.
The second time we were early, 7:15ish. We were asked to pick from two tables that were both at a slant. Since there were many tables that were open, I asked about two other tables. The waiter (looked like "Jack" from "Will and Grace") told us that one of the tables were for 4 and the other would not allow for persons walking down the sidewalk to pass since we had a baby stroller. We took the slanted table. The experience felt like the "soup Nazi" episode from "Sienfeld." The food was very good.
The third time we arived at 7:10pm. We were told that they were closed for dinner and to come back at 8 when they are open. We came back at 7:50 only to find the place packed. I noticed a constant smirk on "Jack's" face when he past us. We were seated a half hour later in the seat that would not allow for persons walking down the sidewalk to pass and waited an additional 15 minutes to get menus. My wife has never (in the 13 years that I have known her) walked out of a restaurant. I guess there is a first time for everything.
We will not be back to Chez Janou.
Eric
Los Angeles, CA USA 06/19/2007
Restaurants worth the slight splurge
My husband and I just returned from 2 weeks in Paris and Provence. Loved it all except I might skip Avignon next time but we did find two great restaurants there and it appeared there were more to choose from.
I recommend Le Verso, 3, place Nicholas Saboly. Provencal with a little extra Italian blended in. The shared Provencal thin crust pizza was wonderful with a big salad for a light dinner when lunch had been long and rich. I will always remember our final night at La Vache a Carreaux, 14, rue de la Peyrolerie. Fantastic dinner at reasonable prices with a charming host/server. I must make that warm goat cheese spread soon!
In Vaison la Romain we enjoyed great dinners at La Lyrist, slightly updated and elegant food, and Le Tournesol, across the street with great service and atmosphere and a more traditional menu. Both are on Cours Taulignan. One night we stayed in and had dinner at Hotel Le Beffroi's restaurant which was a real traditional treat including a cheese plate and Baumes de Venise. Not cheap but we felt completely coddled and satisfied.
At every dinner we noticed the dollar/euro exchange and normal inflation was really making sticking to our budget a challenge but we skimped where we could so we could enjoy that always wonderful French food! And I am not talking about those really expensive places with the stars!Also, seemed like much less smoke than our trip 4 years ago and we were usually surrounded by French and Germans on holiday.
Terry
Lafayette, CA USA 06/05/2007
La Ferrandaise restaurant in Paris
Absolutely delicious food, not touristy at all, moderately priced and very close to Latin Quarters. See their web-site at www.laferrandaise.com The menu, which is on their site is not complete, try the beef (or was it calf?) liver. You'll be amazed how creative a chief can be.
Eugene
New York, NY
Eugene
New York, NY USA 06/04/2007
Falafel in Paris
If you haven't had falafel on Rue des Rossiers, try it. A 4EU falafel is a full meal with the chick-pea balls, veggies, and a delicious sauce. I think the sauce is yogurt-based, so falafels aren't strictly vegetarian, but I suppose you could have the sauce left off if you are a strict vegetarian.
Swan <email>
Napa, CA USA 05/26/2007
New restaurant in Vaison la Romaine.
The restaurant heretofore called "Le Cigalou" has new ownership and a new name. The new name is "La Lyriste." The chef started it after leaving "Le Bateleur" - one of the restaurants that Rick Steves mentions in the 2006 version of FRANCE.
We ate there twice and the food was excellent and the presentation artistic both times.
Mark Sullivan <email>
Lansing, MI USA 04/07/2007
Grizzli in paris
I have great memories of the Grizzli Cafe in Paris in the Marais district. the food amazing, reasonable price, great service. Loved it so much we went there twice on our last visit. Looking forward to going back in June!!!
bluedenim
canada 03/31/2007
Best vegetarian food I've ever had
I was in Paris last month with my sister and we went to Montmartre on a cold, rainy and windy day. To escapse the rain we went into a cute cafe called Le Pot-Potin de Lete. They have a vegetarian section on the menu. I had stuffed peppers with spanish rice and tofu. There was an amazing saffron sauce on one side of the plate and a delicious and sweet tomato sace on the other side. It was absoltutly incredible. My sister had the vegetarian tofu lasagne. We had a perfect pear tart for dessert. Everything was so fresh and obviously home made. I can't wait to go back!
menu in English. parisresto.com
Katie
Washington, DC USA 03/29/2007
Great food in the South of France
If you are going to be in the south of France you just have to try Les Sarments near Aix en Provence. Heck, it's even worth a special trip. Amazing food - my best meal of years of eating out in Europe, a delightful chef, warm service and great decor in the quaintist village at the foot of the St Victoire mountains and the Cotes de Provence wine country. What more could you want for an idyllic get away? It's the makings for one of those perfect holiday moments.
Louise Foxwell <email>
Millersville, MD USA 03/28/2007
desserts in paris
macarons and st. honore at laduree on champs elysees
- delicious!!!
bunnyboo
fremont, ca USA 03/23/2007
La Petite Chaise on Rue Grenelle
We just got back from Paris two days ago. We have our last dinner at this cute restaurant call -LA PETITE CHAISE 36 rue de Grenelle - 75007 Paris.Tel : 01 42 22 13 35 - Fax : 01 42 22 33 84. The food was wonderful and price is not bad. They have fix menu at 31.00 € (entrée + plat +dessert. I would certainly eat there again when I return to Paris next time.
Maggie
Voorhees, NJ USA 03/16/2007
Best Pastry in France!
We stayed in Nice last summer and are going again and I cannot tell you how my mouth is watering in anticipation! The best pastry shop I have ever found in a number of trips to France is right behind the Nice Etoile in Nice. The hot chocolate, the pastries and its central location make it a great find. Go hungry and take something to the beach with you!
Bill Lewis
Seattle, WA USA 03/14/2007
La Litote
Just returned from Paris. Ate twice at La Litote near the Rue Cler (on Rue Bosquet). Great place, great food. I saw it on these boards and was not dissapointed. Spent 147Euro and 101Euro for the 2 meals. Drinks and a la carte items will catch up with you if you are on a budget. Eli (pronounced ellie) is an awesome guy and will make you feel welcome if you let him. Also had breakfast and lunch at Cafe Champ du Mars, good food and service. English at both places.
Shay B.
Carlsbad, CA USA 03/05/2007
Cooking Class in Paris
Before my trip to Paris Nov. 2006 I noticed a posting on this website for www.elegantcooking.com in which Muriel-Margurite takes up to eight people to an open air market and then to her home for a French cooking class. I registered and attended a class and just loved it! I real must for any visiter. I loved Paris so much that I will be returning there this Oct. Thank you Rick Steves and all the travelers who post on this website!
Victoria L. Cooksey
'Cooking with Cooksey'
Victoria L. Cooksey <email>
Eureka, IL USA 02/19/2007
Lyon
Lyon is the heart of French food! Stay at the hostel on the hill under Fourviere cathedral, walk down the hill towards the old town and voila, you'll find "Bouchon Lyonnaise," the best restaurant I've eaten at...try the plat du jour (always the best deal). Magnificent Cotes du Rhone as well!
Joy <email>
Manistee, MI USA 01/14/2007
Drew,
Simply some notes:
- escargots are not mediterranean food but from the Center of France.
- rosé wine is from far one of the worriest French wine you can drink.
- the roast duck with orange glaze is a Chinese speciality.
Xavier
Rennes, I&V France 01/11/2007
Bird flu
I spend most of my time in the South of France in a community next to le lavondu because that is where my grandparents live so the medditeranian food is my favorite french food, from fish stew, escargo ( personal fav) to a simple dish of cheese and a rosee wine. As for other parts of France my favorite food experience would have to be the roast duck with orange glaze to Paris. It was amazing but also gave me a stomach virus, i was stuck in the room and watching televison and all they would talk about was the bird flu so here i am arguing with the doctor ( my mother) trying to convince her i have the bird flu while i sip soda and eat xanax and still cant keep anthing down.
Drew C <email>
Boone, NC USA 01/04/2007