What's New in Britain, Ireland, France 2004
By Rick Steves
With its compelling mix of old and new, from crumbling castles to chocolate churches, Europe's got plenty in store for 2004. And it gets better and better each year. My staff and I have updated all my guidebooks and here are the major changes you'll encounter in 2004.
Great Britain
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| Your eyes won't see long lines at London's ferris wheel in 2004. |
London's new Tate-to-Tate ferry cruises the Thames, shuttling art-lovers between the Tate Modern and Tate Britain art galleries with a stop at the London Eye Ferris Wheel en route.
The once wildly popular London Eye Ferris Wheel no longer comes with long lines and any need for an advance reservation. Now you can generally just buy your ticket and walk on.
London's new £5 "congestion charge," levied on drivers entering the city center, has cut down on traffic. The money raised subsidizes public transit. Buses are now cheaper (L1 a ride), run more frequently, and are less delayed by traffic jams.
The British Heritage pass, covering 600 sights in Britain, comes in a new four-day version for £22 (as well as the original 7-, 15-, and 30-day versions). Busy sightseers find this saves plenty of money.
The famous half-price tickets booth at Leicester Square, which sells discounted tickets for same-day shows, has changed its name to "tkts" to thwart crooked, copy-cat businesses using its previous "half-price" name. To see what Tkts sells, check www.tkts.co.uk.
The new Saatchi Gallery, located at the base of the London Eye, has rotating exhibits of modern art, such as Damien Hirst's appetite-suppressing installation of flies eating a rotting cow's head, then dying on a bug zapper.
Cambridge now allows tourists to book spots on their popular city-and-colleges walking tour (call 01223/457-574 a day ahead and leave your credit-card number). Now day-trippers riding the quick train from London to take this fascinating tour can be assured they have a spot.
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| Travelers can now get a taste of Roman decadence -- with a view -- in historic Bath. |
Bath's long-delayed spa finally opens in early 2004, offering an open-air rooftop spa pool, massages, and mud wraps to anyone with money and a swimsuit (www.thermaebathspa.com).
In North Wales, the new BusyBus Back Wales minibus tours run an all-day circuit for £20 that departs from Conwy and covers Snowdonia, Betws-y-Coed, Chester, and Llandudno. This enables train travelers to enjoy the charms of this remote region, frustrating for those without wheels.
Liverpool has opened the boyhood homes of Beatles John and Paul to the public. John's home has period furniture and photos of the lad. At Paul's place, you'll hear taped interviews and stand in the humble front parlor where Paul and John bent over their guitars strumming "I Saw Her Standing There."
England's new Hadrian's Wall Trail for hikers is now open, running from coast to coast along the ancient wall that once marked the north end of the Roman Empire and kept those pesky Scots out of Caesar's hair (www.hadrians-wall.org).
York, following a trend common these days, charges you to visit its church. You'll fork over £4.50 to tour the Minster but it's worth it...and the Anglican Church thanks you.
Edinburgh's controversial, long-awaited, and expensive Scottish Parliament building will finally open in 2004. It's another measure of how, as Europe continues to evolve into one political and economic unit, the regions are free to wave their flags without threatening anyone.
Ireland
A visit to the towering Cliffs of Moher, near Galway on Ireland's west coast, is one of Ireland's great natural thrills. For five miles, the dramatic cliffs soar as high as 650 feet above the Atlantic. Now you can sail along the base of the towering cliffs from Liscannor to Doolin. The 75-minute cruises — past sea stacks and crag-perched birds — run daily from April through October, weather and tides permitting (www.mohercruises.com).
Netherlands
In Amsterdam, the Rijksmuseum is closing for a five-year renovation project. But the greatest art in its collection — by the Dutch masters Rembrandt, Vermeer, and Hals — will stay on display for the public in the museum's south wing (www.rijksmuseum.nl).
France
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| Its cave paintings may be ancient, but Les Eyzies' National Museum of Prehistory is catapulting into the modern age. |
Paris' venerable Samaritaine Department Store closed its popular viewpoint, but the views from the Notre-Dame's towers and the Eiffel Tower are as stunning as ever. For another Parisian panorama, take the Métro to the Porte Maillot stop, then zip up Hôtel Concorde-Lafayette to the 34th floor, entering a world of €8 beers, €6 espresso, and jaw-dropping views. It's free unless you buy a drink.
Paris' Orangerie impressionist art museum re-opens late in 2004, while Le Petit Palais art museum is closed until 2005 for renovation. For the latest on Paris, check www.paris-touristoffice.com.
Normandy commemorates the 60th anniversary of D-Day in 2004 with "80 days of emotion and celebration" from June 6 through August, including festivals, ceremonies, concerts, and educational events www.normandiememoire.com). Book your hotel room early.
In the Dordogne, home of prehistoric caves, Les Eyzies' small National Museum of Prehistory will open in a bigger, modern building in June 2004. The popular Grotte de Font-de-Gaume cave, with its evocative prehistoric paintings of bison, still takes reservations, but now also sells first-come, first-served tickets. To ensure a spot during the busy summer season, it's best to reserve in advance by fax or phone — your hotel can make the call (tel. 05 53 06 86 00, fax 05 53 35 26 18).
For lots more information, check out our best-selling Rick Steves' travel guidebooks — or join us on one of our free-spirited tours.