Renting an Apartment in Europe
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| More than a flat...it's a doorway to your new neighborhood. |
By Rick Steves
Looking to stretch your weak dollar — and be less of a tourist and more of a neighbor? Renting an apartment/flat, house, or villa can be a socially-rewarding, cost-effective way to spend your European vacation. The per-night cost of a rental apartment is usually comparable to, or even cheaper than, a hotel room of similar standard...and it comes with more space and amenities. (Think of it as buying your accommodations "in bulk.") While renting an apartment might seem like a splurge, groups of backpackers find that splitting the price of a cheap apartment can cost less than paying for several bunks at a youth hostel. And since apartments come with kitchens, you'll eat for the cost of groceries.
Apartments typically rent for a week or more. This gives a traveler an opportunity to really get to know an area, take advantage of day-trip possibilities, and even become a "regular" at the neighborhood bakery and pub. (Good home-base cities are also ideal apartment-rental cities — consider Madrid, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, London, Paris, Arles, Florence, Venice, Sorrento, and Munich.)
Your options differ from country to country. For example, France has a popular network of rentable country homes called gîtes ($350–1,300/week for 4-6 people, www.gites-de-france.fr). In Croatia, you'll spot a blue apartman sign by every other doorway, and shorter stays (3-4 days) are common. If rentals are a particularly good value in a specific country, your guidebook will explain the basics.
There are lots of ways to find rental apartments. In most cases, you'll deal directly with the owner; in other cases, you might work with an agency that maintains a network of rentals. (Sometimes the agency actually owns the apartments, and other times they act as a go-between.)
Using a rental agency is convenient, as the apartments have been pre-screened, and the agency provides a sense of professionalism and predictability. However, you'll pay a bit more than if you dealt directly with the landlord.
Booking direct takes a little more effort, but cutting out the middleman also cuts cost and bureaucracy. Some guidebooks recommend specific apartments, and many local and national tourist offices maintain lists of rentals. But the Internet is the best tool for finding your perfect apartment — simply search for "vacation rental" or "holiday rental" and the town you're interested in, then browse your options. Or use a clearinghouse website that specializes in helping renters find apartments, such as www.vrbo.com, www.vacationrentals.com, www.holiday-rentals.co.uk, www.rentavilla.com (more upscale), and www.interhome.us. You'll usually find photos of the rental (inside and out), as well as loads of other information (number of bedrooms and bathrooms, amenities, sometimes even a floor plan) to help you make your decision.
Once you've found a place that interests you, contact the owner for more information. From some clearinghouse sites, you'll click a link that says "send email" to fill out a form, and the site will send an email to the owner on your behalf.
Before you commit, be clear on the details. Get the street address and chart it on a map (such as at http://maps.google.com) so you're clear on how convenient — or ridiculous — the location is. Request a written rental agreement and cancellation policy. When you make a reservation, you'll generally have to pay a deposit for your rental (can range from 10 to 50 percent). Ideally the owner will take your credit-card number for this, and you'll pay the balance on arrival.
Arrange a time and place to meet and pick up the keys. Once you've checked in, you're on your own. While the owner/manager might offer some basic assistance, don't expect any cleaning or other hotel-style niceties during your stay (the lack of these is what keeps the cost low).
Then get out...and get to know your new neighborhood!