Greek Island Hopping Basics
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From mid-May through mid-September, you can generally count on daily boat connections between islands. Outside these times, service is dramatically cut back, especially after November 1st. Strong meltemi winds start blowing in mid-September, often suspending boat services. Try not to have too tight a schedule planned, especially outside the peak summer season.
Plan for delays. It is reckless to plan to fly from Athens the day you are scheduled to arrive by boat. Plan at least one night in Athens before your flight back to the U.S.
The more out of the way the island is, the less frequent boat service to it will be. As a result, it is likely to be less touristed and have fewer tourist services available.
Tourist offices post boat schedules, but travel agencies often only have schedules for the boat lines whose tickets they sell. You may want to ask around to get a complete picture of all the boats available. Harbor police usually have the full schedule, though they may not speak English.
The Greek islands are divided into several groups. The Cyclades are the most well-known. Boat connections are usually good, so long as you can stay in the same group of islands and/or keep traveling in the same direction. For example, the westerly Samos-Mykonos-Paros-Athens route is frequent and direct. If you want to get from Samos to Santorini, you'll need to change boats in Paros (or Naxos). Hydrofoils are twice as fast and twice as expensive. Flying between islands is another option, though you'll usually need to transfer in Athens. As a general rule, flights cost double to triple the boat fare.
With constant turnover of lodgings, there is no need to reserve. Arriving ferries are met by eager locals with rooms to rent. Many island ports also host room-finding services. Keep in mind when someone offers you a room "five minutes away," it may be over 15 minutes away. Never pay before you have seen a room, and always remember you can refuse and search for something else. In the off-season, dockside room hawkers see the pool of potential customers dwindle, and they can become pretty aggressive. Don't allowed yourself to be pressured to accept their offers.
ATMs are widely available on bigger islands, but not on small islands such as Lipsi. Phone cards are a necessity, since coin-operated phones are rare. Phone cards are sold at kiosks. Greece's country code is 30 and they no longer use area codes.
For up-to-date specifics on certain parts of Greece, see the latest edition of the Rick Steves' Greece: Athens & the Peloponnese guidebook. We also offer free-spirited tours of Greece!