Mobile Phones in Europe
Once you've purchased a mobile phone in Italy, you can consider the full makeover.
Buying a Mobile Phone SIM Card in Europe
If you're buying a SIM card at a European cell-phone shop, here's a checklist of questions you could ask:
1. What is the cost per minute for domestic and international calls and for text messages?
2. Are there different calling plans with different per-minute costs? Which one is right for me?
3. How do I get a tally of the remaining credit on my card?
4. How can I get more credit when I run out? Can I add more credit when I'm in another country?
5. What are the extra costs for calls and text messages (both incoming and outgoing) when I'm roaming in another country?
Before leaving the shop, turn off your phone, put in the new SIM card, and go through the entire process, from turning the phone on through actually making a call — to the store, or, for fun, to the salesperson's personal phone.
Be aware that most European SIM cards expire after a certain period of inactivity (typically 6 – 12 months) — including any credit you have left on the card. So saving your Italian SIM card for next year's trip isn't a sure thing.
By Rick Steves
A mobile phone can come in handy while traveling. Imagine the efficiency of getting driving instructions from your hotel as you approach; or letting your friend know that your train is late but you're on your way; or being reachable day or night by loved ones back home (or a lost travel partner).
Mobile phones aren't for everybody. They're often not worth the cost or hassle. If your trip is brief, if you'll be visiting several countries in a relatively short period of time, or if you just really want to be on vacation, you can easily get by with phone cards you buy in Europe. But if you're willing to pay more for the convenience of calling from wherever you are, a mobile phone may be a reasonable choice.
You have two basic mobile-phone options: Take your American phone (if it works in Europe), or buy one in Europe.
Mobile Phones 101
The standard mobile-phone network in Europe, and much of the world, is called GSM. Some American mobile-phone companies — most notably T-Mobile and AT&T — use the same GSM technology as in Europe. Others (including Sprint and Verizon) use a different system called CDMA that is incompatible with European networks.
Within the GSM network, different regions operate on different bands. The United States uses two bands, and most of Europe uses two other bands. A GSM phone that's tri-band or quad-band operates on both US bands, plus one or both European bands — so it works well at home and abroad.
The "identity" of a GSM mobile phone — your phone number and account information — is stored on a removable fingernail-sized chip, called a SIM card, which fits into the back of the phone. The phone won't work without a SIM card.
Some phones are electronically "locked" so that you can't switch SIM cards — therefore, you must stay loyal to your original service provider. But you can usually get this lock removed — or "unlocked" — allowing you to replace the original SIM card with one from a different company. This is especially useful if you want to use the phone in multiple countries, as you can buy a different SIM card in each one. While switching SIM cards may sound intimidating, it's actually quite simple: Just pop out the phone's battery, pull out the chip, and put in the new one.
If you venture outside your mobile phone's home area, you're roaming. Making calls when you're roaming in a foreign country can be expensive. To avoid high roaming fees,some Europeans switch SIM cards as they cross borders. (The EU regulates roaming fees within their territory — but if you're roaming with a non-EU SIM card, it could be pricey.)
Europeans have been texting for years. Also known as an "SMS," a text message is a short bit of text that's sent from one mobile phone to another. Europeans like texting because it's much cheaper than calling — usually 5–10 cents to send and nothing to receive (potentially more if you're roaming outside your SIM card's home country).
Europeans might not understand the American term "cell phone." Try "mobile" (pronounce it the way Brits do — rhymes with "smile") or "Handy" (most common in German-speaking countries).
American Phones
First, figure out whether your phone works in Europe. Many T-Mobile or AT&T phones work fine abroad, while only specialized phones from Verizon or Sprint do — check your operating manual (look for "tri-band" or "quad-band"), or ask your mobile-phone service provider. You might have to go into your phone's menu and manually switch it from the American band to the European one, but most phones automatically detect the change.
Your mobile-phone service provider likely has an international plan, which allows you to roam throughout Europe using your home phone number. For example, T-Mobile charges about $1–2 per minute to make or receive overseas calls, and about $0.35 to send or receive text messages, with no additional fees.
A few caveats: Note that you'll be charged for incoming calls, even if you don't answer them (and, in some cases, even if your phone is turned off) — so tell your friends and co-workers not to call except in emergencies. And recently, owners of some newer wireless devices (such as iPhones) have been surprised with huge bills for unwittingly roaming — such as when the phone constantly checks for new emails. (This default Internet data-roaming feature can be turned off to avoid per-kilobyte charges, which add up fast.) No matter what type of phone you have, ask your carrier for details before you travel.
If the rates are high or you plan on making a lot of calls, ask your mobile-phone provider for the code to "unlock" your phone. (You can also pay a third-party company for an unlock code, but it's less reliable.) Once your phone is unlocked, you can buy and change SIM cards as you travel. Rather than using your American number, you'll have a European number...and pay cheaper European rates.
If your home phone doesn't work in Europe, buying or renting a European phone may not be worth the hassle or expense. But if you're still interested...
European Phones
It can be surprisingly affordable to buy a basic "pay as you go" mobile phone in Europe. Shop around at the ubiquitous corner phone marts or at mobile-phone counters in big department stores. No contracts are necessary — most phones come loaded with prepaid calling time — and additional minutes are usually easy to buy. The cheapest new phones run about $40–75. To save more, look for special promotions or shops that sell used phones. (You can also buy European phones online from the US, but it's generally cheaper and easier to get one in Europe.) Ideally, buy a phone that's "unlocked," for maximum flexibility in switching out SIM cards.
These days, car-rental companies, mobile-phone companies, and even some hotels offer the option to rent a mobile phone with a European number. While this seems convenient, hidden fees (such as high per-minute charges or expensive shipping costs) can really add up, making it a bad value.
Be aware that if you're having people call you on your European phone number, it's typically more expensive for them than calling a fixed line. Your loved ones back home might save money phoning you at your hotel, rather than calling your mobile phone.
Buying SIM Cards
If you have an unlocked phone — whether brought from the US or purchased in Europe — you can buy a SIM card to make it work in Europe. Remember that a SIM card is a small, fingernail-size chip that stores your phone number and other information. If your phone is unlocked, getting your own European phone number is easier and cheaper than you might imagine.
While you can buy European SIM cards online from the US, they're usually overpriced — just buy one when you arrive in Europe. Each country has various service providers, all of whom sell their own SIM cards. Since these companies are very competitive, they're pretty much the same — just look for a good deal. Most SIM cards cost around $5–15. They come with a European phone number and starter credit. You can buy additional prepaid credit as you go: Buy a printed voucher from that provider at a mobile-phone shop or newsstand, then punch in the numbers from the voucher to add the time to your phone. There are various ways to keep track of your credit (depending on the provider) — sometimes your remaining credit is automatically displayed after each call, or you might have to call or text a service number to find out.
When you buy the SIM card, get a list of the specific rates for various types of calls. If you're calling from the SIM card's home country, you'll generally pay around 10–20 cents per minute for domestic calls, and nothing to receive calls. Calls to the US can cost $1 per minute or more.
A SIM card works most affordably in the country where you bought it. If you roam with the SIM card in another country, call prices go up, and you pay international rates to receive incoming calls. If your SIM card is from an EU country, fees are regulated when roaming within the EU: You'll pay no more than about 55 cents per minute to make calls, or 25 cents per minute to receive calls. If your SIM card is from a non-EU country — or if you're traveling in one — roaming fees can be much higher. If you'll be making a lot of calls, it can be cheaper to buy a new SIM card for that country.
In some places, getting a SIM card is as simple as buying a pack of gum. In Greece, I walked up to a newsstand and bought a SIM card for about $5, and in a Brussels train station, I bought one at a vending machine. But other countries are regulating SIM cards more carefully, so you might have to fill out some paperwork and/or show your passport before buying the card.
For more tips on buying SIM cards in Europe, see the sidebar on this page.
Traveling with a Mobile Phone in Europe
No matter what kind of phone you use, as you cross each border, you'll usually receive a text message welcoming you to the new country's network, and explaining how to use their services. If traveling within the EU, the message will indicate how much it costs to make and receive calls while in that country.
Remember to store your phone numbers in the phone itself, rather than on the SIM card — or you'll lose access to them when you switch SIMs. When storing phone numbers, include the plus (+) sign and the country code so your calls will go through, regardless of where you're calling from.
The Bottom Line on Mobile Phones
For the majority of travelers, phone booths are still the best way to make calls in Europe — they're cheap and easy to find. But if you travel frequently, a mobile phone is a great convenience. Here's a wrap-up of my advice for those who want to go mobile.
If your American mobile phone will work in Europe...Take it and use it if you have a reasonable calling plan. But if you will be making lots of calls, first get it "unlocked" so you can switch out the SIM card in Europe (and get better rates).
If your American phone won't work in Europe...Skip the rentals. It's cheaper and relatively painless to buy a new phone there. If you're planning to visit multiple countries, make sure it's an "unlocked" phone so you can change SIM cards as you cross borders.
I've roamed with my American phone in two dozen different countries. No more noisy, urine-perfumed phone booths for me...I travel Europe with a mobile phone.
Updated for 2009. For lots more tips, check out our best-selling Europe Through the Back Door travel skills guidebook.