Riding the Rails in Europe
By Rick Steves
Europe's great train system turns the Continent into your playground. You can figure it out as you travel. Or, to learn more quickly — from my mistakes — here are a few tips:
Learn to use the 24-hour clock used in European timetables. After 12:00 noon, the Europeans keep going — 13:00, 14:00, and so on. To convert to the 12-hour clock, subtract 12 and add p.m. (16:00 is 4 p.m.).
To get information on schedules before you go, go online. The German railway's website is the best place to find schedules for trains all over Europe. If you get stuck, see these tips.
To get information on schedules as you travel, pick up freebie timetables at train stations as you go. The big, yellow departure schedules posted at stations often befuddle travelers who don't realize that all over the world, the same four columns are listed: destination, type of train, track number, and departure time. Without much effort you can accurately guess which column is what.
Confirm your plans with a clerk at the train station information window. Write out your itinerary on a piece of paper (e.g., Torino [draw an arrow] Milano 8:50–10:40) and ask, "OK?" Simple written communication eliminates the language barrier.
Choosing between first and second class? You'll meet more locals in second class, or find greater comfort — at a 50 percent higher price — in first class. Remember that both first- and second-class cars travel at precisely the same speed.
Make sure you know where to catch your train and where to get off. Many cities have more than one train station. Paris has six, Brussels has three, and even Switzerland's little Interlaken has two. A city's stations are generally connected by train, subway, or bus.
Never assume the whole train is going where you are. Each car is labeled separately, because cars are usually added and dropped here and there along the journey. Be sure that the city on your car's nameplate is your destination.
There is a thief on every train (union rules) planning to grab a bag. Clip your backpack to the overhead rack for safety.
On an overnight ride, get a couchette — a sleeping berth in a compartment. Reserve a couchette (pronounced coo-shet) at least a day in advance from a local travel agency, the train station, or, if there are any available, from the conductor on the train. For about $32, you'll get sheets, pillow, blankets, a fold-out bunk bed in a compartment with three to five other people, and, hopefully, a good night's sleep.
For lots more tips, check out our best-selling Europe Through the Back Door travel skills guidebook.