Greece's Peloponnese
Rick Steves' Europe: Episode # 509
Island getaways are fun, but the real heart of Greece is found in the Peloponnese Peninsula. After enjoying the charming old port town of Nafplio, we'll time-trip through the ruins of Olympia, take center stage at the remarkably preserved theater at Epidauros, and explore the ancient capital of Mycenae. Then we'll wander off the beaten path along the rustic, rough-and-tumble Mani Peninsula, relax in the idyllic beach town of Kardymli, and marvel at Greece's Rock of Gibraltar: the fortress town of Monemvasia.
- Read the script from the show.
Travel Details
Ancient Mycenae
There are three main sightseeing areas at Mycenae, a few minutes' walk from each other. The archaeological ruins consist of the walled city of Mycenae atop the hill called the acropolis. Here you'll find the famous Lion Gate entrance, Grave Circle A that yielded precious artifacts, and the ruins of the palace. Below the site is the museum, housing artifacts that were found here. Finally, as impressive as anything here, is the Treasury of Atreus — a huge domed tomb, located about 300 yards away from the main site (along the main road). There are a handful of other ruins and tombs scattered around the area, but stick to these three to start your visit. Allow an hour for the site, a half-hour for the museum, and a half-hour for the Treasury of Atreus. Mycenae is 18 miles north of Nafplio (on the way to the major E65 expressway) — it's easiest to drive there. Tel. 275-107-6585 (at Mycenae) or 275-202-7502 (in Nafplio).
Epidavros Theater
These days the famous theater is Epidavros' star attraction. It's the finest and best-preserved of all of Greece's ancient theaters — and that's saying something in a country with 132 of them. Epidavros also has some (far) less interesting sights. The once-great sanctuary is now just a lonely field of rubble. A small Archaeological Museum displays a few crumbled fragments of statuary. The stadium is under renovation and closed to visitors. But the theater alone makes Epidavros worth the side-trip. It's a 40-minute drive east of Nafplio, along winding roads. Budget two to three hours for the round-trip excursion from Nafplio. You can see the entire site in an hour, but it's delightful to linger at the theater (tel. 273-502-2009).
Olympia
There are three parts to an Olympia visit: The Sanctuary of Olympia archaeological site, the Archaeological Museum, and two smaller museums on a nearby hill (the Museum of the History of the Olympic Games in Antiquity, and the Museum of the History of Excavations). While you can see these in any order, I recommend walking the site first (while your energy is high), then touring the Archaeological Museum to reconstruct what you've seen. If you have time left, hit the two smaller museums and poke around the town (which has yet another museum — a very humble exhibit about the modern Olympic Games). Allow 90 minutes for the site, an hour for the Archaeological Museum, and another hour for the two smaller museums. Try to go early in the morning or late afternoon (though the site can be very hot in the afternoon). The Sanctuary of Olympia sits in the fertile valley of the Alphios River in the western Peloponnese, nine miles southeast of the regional capital of Pyrgos. The site curves along the southeastern edge of the tidy modern village of Archaia (Ancient) Olympia (tel. 2624-022-517).
Monemvasia
Monemvasia, a gigantic rock that rockets improbably up from the blue-green deep just a few hundred yards offshore, is a time-warp to the medieval Peloponnese. Its little Lower Town hamlet hides on the seaward side of the giant Rock, tethered to the mainland only by a skinny spit of land. This remarkably romantic walled town — with the remains of an even bigger Upper Town scattered along the rock's peak high above — is a living museum of Byzantine, Turkish, and Venetian history dating back to the 13th century. Summiting Monemvasia is a key experience on any Peloponnesian visit. Monemvasia means "single entry" — and the only way to get here is to cross the narrow causeway. At the mainland end of the causeway is the nondescript town of Gefyra, a smattering of hotels, restaurants, shops, and other modern amenities that offer a 21st-century escape from the Rock. It takes only a few hours to "do" Monemvasia — a stroll through the Lower Town, a hike to the Upper Town, and you've seen it all. Consider seeing Monemvasia as a side-trip. but remember that spending the night here — especially on the Rock — allows you to linger on the floodlight cobbles, and makes the long trip down here more worthwhile.
For up-to-date specifics, see the latest edition of the Rick Steves' Greece: Athens & the Peloponnese travel guide — or join us on one of our free-spirited Greece tours.