Highlights of Castile: Toledo and Salamanca
Rick Steves' Europe: Episode # 302
Castile sparkles with Roman Segovia, walled Avila, student-filled Salamanca, and holy Toledo! We marvel at El Greco, pop some explosive pickles, and ramble Spain's most awe-inspiring medieval walls. Then, just for fun, we drop in on a bachelorette party with local troubadours, slice and savor tasty jamon, stroll with the crowd, and grab a front-row seat to enjoy Europe's most enchanting square.
- Read the script from the show.
Travel Details
Mazapán
Toledo's famous almond-fruity-sweet mazapán is sold all over town. Locals say the best is made by Santo Tomé (several outlets, including a handy one on Plaza Zocódover). They sell mazapán goodies individually (sin relleno — " without filling" — is for purists, de piñon has pine nuts, imperiales is with almonds, others have fruit fillings) or in small mixed boxes.
Santa Cruz Museum
For years, this museum has been in a confused state of renovation — not really open, not really closed. During renovation of this great Spanish Renaissance building (a fine example of Plateresque style), the museum's cloister and a room full of its best art are open and free. If the core of the building is filled with a temporary exhibit, you can generally wander in for a free look. After renovation, the arms of the building — formerly wards — will be filled with 16th-century art, tapestries, furniture, armor and documents (just off Plaza Zocódover, go through arch, Cervantes 3, tel. 925-221-402).
Santo Tomé
This simple chapel holds El Greco's masterpiece, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, which hangs over the count's tomb. The painting is divided in two by a serene line of noble faces — heaven above and earth below. Above the line of long, somber faces, the count's soul, symbolized by a little baby, rises up through a mystical birth canal to be reborn in heaven, where he's greeted by Jesus, Mary and all the saints (tel. 925-256-098).
Hotel La Almazara
Ctra. de Arges 47
tel. 925-223-866
www.hotelalmazara.com
Restaurante Casón López de Toledo
Calle Sillería 3 (near Plaza Zocódover)
tel. 925-254-774
For up-to-date specifics, see the latest edition of the Rick Steves' Snapshot: Madrid & Toledo travel guide or the Rick Steves' Spain travel guide — or join us on one of our free-spirited Spain tours.