A big part of my research work is running down leads. Most are dead-ends. At the end of a busy day on the fjords, I followed one such lead up a gravelly road to a cluster of 27 abandoned farmhouses — once a goaty gang of farm families, then abandoned, and now coming back to life. Thanks to Lila, who’s monitoring this project, Otternes Farm is a place where travelers can connect with Norway’s past on a breathtaking perch high above Aurlandsfjord. It’s in our upcoming TV show and covered in the new edition of our Scandinavia book.