Eastern Europe

Favorite discoveries or tips:

Hotel Aureus Clavis (www.aureusclavis.com) in Prague was a fantastic find, and a reasonable price. The location was perfect in Mala Strana on Nerudova street. We were surprised that it wasn't mentioned in Rick Steves' book. Breakfast is included, and was really good. The room and service were great.

Elaine in Vancouver , BC Canada 07/06/2008

I want to recommend a fabulous guide for Warsaw. She is Anna Ptasnik, annaptasnik@wp.pl or +48 601 31 35 32. She is very knowledgeable and took us on a well-sequenced walking tour of the old town, former Jewish Ghetto, newer part of town, and Lazienski Park. She tailored the tour to our needs and our willingness to walk, and I highly recommend her. Also, Marta Chmielowska, whom you already recommend as a guide in Krakow, is very good as well.

Margie Satinsky in Durham, NC USA 07/05/2008

I would recommend NOT purchasing a multi day pass in prague. everything is within walking distance. We used public transportation to and from airport and bus station and once late at night. Other than that we truly enjoyed walking the city. We stayed on the castle side and loved walking home across the Charles bridge and seeing the castle lit up on our walk home. However in Vienna and Budapest do buy the multi day passes. Both cities are more spread out and the transportation system in great in vienna, the best we have seen in europe and the only in budapest, although it needs some work is essential since everything is so spread out. The budapest card is great if you are there 2 or more days. We bought the 72 hour card and used it quite a bit. Also, in prague we were going to eat athospoda u novaka but nobody was there and we saw a restaurant across the street called u zpevacku and it was probably our best meal in prague, cheap price, local food and lots of local people enjoying themselves

mike in tempe, az USA 06/22/2008

While in Ljubljana, I took Rick Steve's advice about taking a TI sponsored 2 hour tour with one of their guides. She was flabbergasted when she realized that I knew of her great aunt and what had happened. She thought everyone had forgotten the incident. I showed her Rick Steve's Eastern Europe Book and she was very interested and impressed. We both then checked out the face that appears near the left leg of the statue of Mercury. She claimed that it does indeed bear a likeness to the original owner of the building. She is now a fan of Rick's, and I am a fan of hers as well. Simona Juzina is a very good guide, good with people and you can tell she enjoys her job.

Doris Herp in Louisville, KY USA 06/15/2008

Hello. I operate a small tour company in Tallinn Estonia. Lot's of my American customers mention that they are big Rick Steves fans, so I would be extremely grateful if you would consider my company and its tours for review in your publications. You can view our tour offerings at www.estadventures.ee I can be contacted at andrew@estadventures.ee My phone number is +372 53855511. I would be happy to take any of your writers on tour when they next update Tallinn sections. Kind regards,

Andrew Meek

Andrew Meek in Tallinn, Estonia 04/27/2008

Dear Sirs, I would be my pleasure and honor to advertise my HOSTEL with your guides: hope someone will be sent to inspect the hostel and see if it meets your standards.

I've been a backpacker for a long time and now I think I have an idea on how things should be to have great atmosphere so that ALL customers are always happy.

It’s located just north of Varna, in Bulgaria, on the road that goes to the Golden Sands.

It will be inaugurated on the 1st of May, it runs all year. It can host up to 22 people, it has a bar and restaurant on site, clean and safe environment, friendly and helpful staff, beach 10 minute walk away, a small swimming pool, aircon dorms, sea view terrace, free basic breakfast, 24/h check in/out, theme nights (movies, parties), common area with tv and games, music, towels and linen included, close bus stop and taxi stand.

Since we are not in the centre we offer 3 free daily rides with our van from/to Varna - Golden Sands – Hostel.

Hoping to soon receive an answer I send you my best regards,

Daniele Colombo www.xhostel.eu info@xhostel.eu

Daniele Colombo in Varna, Bulgaria 02/27/2008

PLEASE.. give us Romania!

Melissa in Ft. Worth, TX USA 02/10/2008

Tip: You can buy a ticket to visit Prague's Jewish Quarter at ANY of the 7 sights; you do not need to wait in line at the Pinkas Synagogue as suggested in the guidebook on p. 90....We waited nearly an hour for a ticket and then discovered there was no lines at all at all the other Jewish sights. Please put this tip in your guidebook!

Gail in Albany, OR USA 01/27/2008

Looking for something out of the ordinary? We took a tour of Prague-Vienna-Budapest this past summer. At the end of our tour in Budapest we met up with our friends from Germany. They took us to the Dagaly Baths (http://budapest-guide.blogspot.com/2007/08/dagly-baths.html) where I am quite sure we were the only Americans. There were about ten different pools including a very creative wave pool. The security in the changing room is also quite creative both with the bench that lifts up and down to lock the doors to your private changing room and the person who gives you a key for your locker that is a different number than what is displayed on your locker - yet he keeps it all under control.

Henry in Houston, TX USA 01/20/2008

Budapest - Soul Cafe on Raday utca has excellent food and service. Overall the food in Budapest was consistently the best with the friendliest service of the three cities we visited including Krakow and Prague.

Sondra in Portland, OR USA 11/06/2007

there is a caving tour offered in Budapest. we had a tour guide who took us underneath the city to explore the caves where the thermal baths get their water from. i do not have any of the info with me anymore, but our hostel (astoria city hostel), provided us with the information.

Carolyn in New York, NY USA 10/24/2007

You can save money on train fare from Berlin to Prague by ordering tickets on-line via the German train authority. Some of the train seats are offered at about 50% off the normal fare if you book in advance.

Rod Young in Bowie, MD USA 09/28/2007

Although I think Rick is generally right on in all his recommendations, I think he severely missed on his feelings on Bratislava. Although there is not a ton to do in the town, it is a great town to visit and just walk around. It was very relaxing and very beautiful. If he can recommend Sventendre in Hungary, then he definitely should recommend going to Bratislava!

Becca in Eden Prairie, MN USA 09/19/2007

Restaurant Josephine in Prague-near Guesthouse Lida. What a find--and recommended by our host at Gueshouse Lida, Jan. The food was fantastic and so cheap. Four adults feasted + had wine and beer for $35US per couple. One of the best values...

Nancy Williams in Avon, , CT USA 08/05/2007

K and K Hotels in Prague, and Budapest. This is an exclusive Austrian/German co, but the trick is to go to their website for specials. I found 4/5 star service for 3 star prices. And the breakfast buffet is indeed a buffet and free! http://www.kkhotels.com/

Jorge Lallemand in Miami Beach, FL USA 07/18/2007

In Prague - near Hotel Anna - restaurant: Churdoba - has great local food and very good and inexpensive Moravian wine; contact restauracechurdoba.cz. Wine cellar "Cellarius": just two doors south in the same block as Hotel Anna - www.cellarius.cz contact: lehtni zahrada - great selection of wines, tasting, and small courtyard.

Mary Ann Rose in Westminster, CO USA 06/28/2007

The Castle Steps Hotel in Prague (www.pragueroom.com) is not mentioned in your guide book. We stayed there for three nights and this was the highlight of our entire stay in Europe. Our room had a beautiful view over the park and was stuffed full of some of the most beautiful furniture I have ever seen in a hotel room.

Peter Marshall in London, UK 06/22/2007

Hotel Campanile in Krakow, Poland (ul. Sw. Tomasza 34, www.campanile.com.pl). Located a few blocks from the main market square. It was clean, modern, English speaking staff and an excellent buffet breakfast. 383 zlotys per night. Right next door to one of Ricks recommendations.

Sandra Larsen in Eugene, Or USA 06/17/2007

Airport Hotel Stacio in Budepest 5 minutes from the airport. BOok it on the internet for the best deal 86 Euros for a beautiful big room wonderful good size bath, breakfast and 2 hotel transfers included. Its a new building near a business park complex. Very clean and comfortable. A good choice for an early flight out of Budapest. www.hotelstacio.hu info@hotelstacio.hu We were very pleased. Restaurant in Budapest: Rezkakas Restaurant. The conceige in a big hotel near the Chain Bridge recommended it and it was fabulous. I have seldom experienced such elegant service, the food was amazing and the music (3 gypsys) playing gypsy music...the violin player was fabulous and handsome!!! Pricey but it was our last night after 3 weeks so its a treat. Eating earlier an 7:30PM and you will be eating by yourself and the musicans won't be there yet. www.rezkakasrestaurant.com etterem@kakasrestaurant.com Vienna in May/early June the best White Asparagus ever! Kanzleramt just around the corner from Ricks favorite, Demel for chocolate desserts. Lots of locals showed up at noon when we were just being served. Beautiful sidewalk cafe, friendly service. restaurant-kanzleramt@netway.at wwww.restaurant-kanzeramt.at

HarLyn Mlynek in Colorado Springs, Co USA 06/07/2007

Check out the Vienna walking tours at www.wienguide.at. "Unknown Underground Vienna" takes you into the crypts of St. Michael's Church. I won't spoil the surprise, but if you like the macabre, this is the place for you! You won't believe what lurks beneath the church. Fans of "The Third Man" can also take tours to relive the famous sewer scenes from that movie. In Krakow, try the restaurant Klasyka Polska (ul. sw. Tomasza 8, tel 012 428 00 22 - it's right across the street from Polski Smaki). The folksy interior is decorated to recreate each room in a house - from the library to the kitchen. You have to try the complimentary lard spread, whether you want to or not. The tasty roasted pork knuckle is enough to feed two people.

Doreen in Los Angeles, CA USA 05/27/2007

When exploring accommodations in Hungary, I perused the English websites. My Hungarian boyfriend read the same pages in Hungarian and we discovered a serious price discrepancy between the two versions of the same page! Apparently it is quite common in Hungary for tourists to be charged under a completely different rate schedule than locals. He warned me that when we go into Hungarian restaurants, we shouldn't speak English until we have been handed a menu, otherwise we could get the more expensive Angolrul Tourist Menu.

Alison McNeill in Prince George, BC Canada 05/25/2007

To all the folks complaining about Eastern vs Central Europe, please read the box on p4 of the Introduction to explain usage!

When ordering coffee throughout the countries listed here, there is some variance in terminology so you'll just have to experiment. To get a milky espresso coffee, you'll either have to ask for a "latte macchiato" (an American latte), a "melange" (a foamy latte", or just milk coffee. I try to be explicit and say double-espresso with milk.

I thought the comment about Viennese locals dismissing Starbucks coffee because flavoured coffee was ridiculous, was rather funny, because most cafes there have a long list of flavoured coffees. The coffee is rather good (Cafe Sperl!!), but I went into a Starbucks on Mariahilfergasse just to get a larger size coffee, and the quality was very poor at a high price.

Ljubljana - great place to shop for clothes (even for guys: try Urko). The crafts available near the produce market are wonderful. Also the shop selling products from the Slovenian salt-pans is great! I spent more money there than in Austria, Croatia and Hungary combined.

Mike Williams in http://mikenbondi.blogspot.com, Australia 04/18/2007

I would like to recommend Budapest Underguide tour company. We only had two days in Budapest and wanted to make the most of it. I happened to see an ad for the Budapest Underguide and booked a private tour for 60 euros for four hours. It was well worth the 60 Euros. Our tour guide, Csaba, connected with my family and me and showed us the sites we were interested in and other things of interest along the way. He was very interesting and informative. Their website is www.underguide.com

Sheila Kagi in Mechanicsville, VA USA 03/28/2007

While we were in Krakow, we took a walking tour of Nowa Huta, given by a Latvian who is married to a Pole, great communism stories. While there we stopped by a place called 1949 Club. It was a coffee shop that is also trying to serve as a museum. They had a short movie in the basement about the now gone statue of Stalin and the attempt to blow it up. It is just a block or so from Ronald Reagan square, the main central plaza there in Nowa Huta.

Also, while in Prague, we rented a car and drove the two hours to Dresden just for one night. It was a good side trip.

We then dropped the car off in Cesky Krumlov -- actually they came to pick it up at our hotel for a not-unreasonable fee. It was all very convenient. Be careful though, not all rental cars have radios, if that matters to you.

Bruce Hall in Iloilo, Philippines 03/21/2007

In Prague off the beaten path somewhat, we found a good and very pleasant little restaurant called "U Suteru" with very good food, service, friendly and helpful staff. The address is Palackeho 4, tel. 224 947 120.

In Vienna you were pretty much right on all the way. The "Ofenloch" Restaurant was great but the directions left a bit to be desired. It isn't on the Plaza cited in the book. You have to take the street just before the platz (when walking from St Stephens Platz) follow it and then turn off on to Kurrentgasse.

At the Opera we ran into a woman who said she was helping you on you special on Vienna. I guess the way we were singing your praises she thought we knew you personally. She said the special on Wien was going to be out soon and we should look for it.

Your guide really made our trip to Prague Vienna and Budapest exceptional. Thank you!

Jim G & Mary Gorman in BLOOMFIELD, CT USA 03/07/2007

When in Budapest Rick recommends that you always call for a taxi. I recommend that you not ask the hotel to call for you. Taxi 2000 at 06-1-2-000-000 has a flat rate of transport from the airport to a hotel on the Buda side for 4600 HUF. The Hotel Burg (very nice) had a sign at the desk that a taxi to the airport was 6000 HUF. I, wrongly assumed that if I asked them to call Taxi 2000, I'd get 4600 HUF rate. When the taxi picked us up the driver met the hotel clerk at the door, and we were asked to pay 6000 HUF. Upon arriving at the airport I telephoned Taxi 2000 myself to check on the rate from the Hotel Burg to the airport. 4600 HUF was the quote. Rick is absolutely correct...always call YOURSELF!

Sharron STEVENS in Oberstaufenbach, Germany 01/09/2007

Getting a taxi at the Budapest train station...since they're notoriously dishonest....I went to the TI to get a map and asked them the best place to get a taxi. The man at the TI walked me to the cab stand, negotiated for me, and admonished me not to get talked into paying any more than what he'd negotiated for me. Don't know if they'd always do that, but it made getting a taxi very painless.

Carolyn S. in Seattle, WA USA 12/12/2006

There is a helpful TI office in Divaca, Slovenia. A very friendly man there named Tomas drove us to Lipica for 1,500SIT per person round-trip. The best part was, we could return to Divaca at any time - we simply called Tomas when we were ready to return.

Scott B. in St. Petersburg, FL USA 11/17/2006

We stayed at the Hotel Victoria in Budapest in Oct. 06. Right next to the hotel is a Belgian Brasserie. The food was out of this world with a mix of locals and tourist. Great staff too. Belgian brasserie, 1012 Budapest Bem rakpart 12, 201-5082.

Also, if you take a night train from Prague to Vienna and have railpasses, make sure you have purchased a supplement for the sleeper car.

gina sandgren in moorhead, mn USA 11/15/2006

Spent 7 days in Krakow with a side trip to Zakopane and Auschwitz and my grandparents home town of Rzeszow and 3 days in Warsaw and must say how surprised I was on the beauty of Poland. Krakow was all it is written about. The church concerts, people watching in the square, Wawel, etc were all a delight. Rick, we thank you for helping us discover Poland early before the word gets out. Warsaw is the business town of Poland but staying around Old Town Square was a good choice. It is a 2 day city but enjoyed the sights and sounds of Warsaw.

Mike Worosz in Griffith, IN USA 11/14/2006

Zakopane as a day trip from Krakow. The bus runs there frequently from the main bus station. Nice to see a slice of Polish life outside the cities like Krakow or Warsaw. The mountain views are wonderful, some mild (or probably more strenuous too) hiking is easily available, fun to see the sunbathers on the mountain sides, and the Zakopane-style architecture is really incredible. I recommend NOT going on a Tuesday as the museums are closed, which means you miss a lot of the info on the architecture style. Admittedly, a bit touristy, but German and Polish tourists. Americans don't seem to have discovered it yet.

Carolyn S. in Seattle, WA USA 11/10/2006

If you are going to Krakow, contact Marta Chmielowski, see "local guides" under tours for Krakow, she is fabulous and will take good care of you. In Prague, I highly recommend Marie Zahn, under "tours" in Prague, "Private Guides - Thomas Zahn". Then I suggest you read Rick's book a few times and do everything he suggests.

Anita Slevin in Park City, UT USA 11/01/2006

Vela Luka, Korcula. We arrived at Vela Luka on the ferry as the sun was setting and we were a bit anxious about finding a place to stay. However, we happened upon a lovely couple walking downtown who coincidentally had an apartment for rent. It was a bit out of town, but it was new, spacious and the price was very reasonable. Since our host Ivan had lived in the US and Canada in the past, he had a wonderful command of English and he loved to chat. For warm Croatian hospitality, we found this place a lovely retreat. ivan.mirosevic@htnet.hr Phone: (385)20 813 678

Pat Christie in Calgary, AB Canada 10/15/2006

When we arrived at the Croatian island of Korcula, we found that the accommodations on Rick's list were full. However, up on the street above with an outstanding view, we found Apartments Mago, run by the friendly Milosevic family. Our new, immaculate and spacious apartment was 350 kuna and we had a lovely deck overlooking the sea as well as a TV and space to park, within a 10 minute walk of downtown. This memorable stay was a highpoint of our trip to beautiful Korcula. Contact: miroslav.milosevic@du.t-com.hr Cvjetno naselje 28, 20260 Korcula, Tel 385(0)20 711 387

Pat Christie in Calgary, AB Canada 10/15/2006

1.Hotel Batory 48.12.294.3033, Ul. Ssoltyka 19 31-529 Krakow hotelbatory.pl; batory@hotelbatory.pl We were pleased staying here based on another reader's recommendation. We ate most meals at their restaurant because they specialize in Polish food and it was light and tasty (20% discount for hotel guests). 10 min. from train station walking. Walk to city center.

2. Fatal Restaurant, Budapest. Vaci utca 67 266-2607 Although it has Vaci utca address, it's really on a side street but easily viewed from Vaci utca. A local took us there and the food was wonderful. Portions are huge, so all dishes can be shared with 1-2 people.

3. Les Amis Restaurant, Budapest.Romer Flóris u. 12., district 2, 1024 Budapest. Reservations: +36-1 316-3894; 315-1643. This was recommended by Hotel Papillon and it was a pleasant surprise. Very small. Excellent food and service, well prepared, good prices.

4. A local took us to: Kehli Vendeglo Restaurant, Budapest. Mokus u. 22 (00 361 250 4241): Located in Obuda (district III) just west of the Arpad hid. The family resturant is a block behind (west of) the Corinthia Aquincum Hotel. English menus available. It's out of the way, but traditional Budapest food at very moderate prices. Try the bone marrow appetizer! Game is a specialty.

* Take the number 1 trolley to the Szentlelek ter stop (the first stop west of the Dunna.) Walk south

Or

* Take the HEV to the Arpad hid stop. Walk south. (Note: the trolley stop is on the south side of Szentlelek ter while the HEV stop is on the east side of the square, so they are within 200 yards of eachother.)

Or

* Take the 6 or 86 bus to Pacsirtamezo Utca, the first stop south of the Florian ter stop. (read the placards in the bus) and walk east.

The landmark for finding the restaurant is the Catholic Church that is just south of the road that comes over the Arpad Bridge. (There are two churches south of the road -- the Protestant church is more to the west and plainer and smaller than the Catholic church which is closer to the river and has a clock and many statues.) Walk one block south on Mokus utca which runs just behind (west) the Catholic church.

Colleen Naughton in Minneapolis, MN USA 10/08/2006

BUDAPEST: Dunayacht does a great inexpensive 1 hour after-dark Danube cruise with English narration. Cafe Kor (SAS Utca 17) has great food at reasonable prices. Need reservation: 311-0053. VIENNA:Huth Gastwirthschaft(Schellinggasse 5,513-5644) has outstanding moderately priced food. Best fried chicken I have ever eaten anywhere.

jerry bergstein in Indianapolis, IN USA 10/03/2006

Top Clean laundry, upstairs over the Spar supermarket near Bathyanni Ter metro stop, Budapest. Give them a sack of dirty laundry, and they'll have it washed, folded, and neatly packaged for you the next morning. Price, 1900 HF (about $9) per kilo. Using laundries in Europe lets you pack half as many clothes.

Tom Duffy in Northbrook, IL USA 09/23/2006

OUR FAVORITE RESTAURANT IN KRAKOW: miod malina Folklor Kulinarny spolka jawna Krakow 31-044; ul. Grodzka 40 (rezerwacje) tel. 012 430 04 11 (This info has been typed with an English keyboard and some letters are incorrect in Polish!) This place opened the week I was in Krakow in late April 2006. It is wonderful - great food, very reasonable prices, comfortabler ambiance and located along a main street and near Wawel Castle. Check it out!

Mary Thomson in Chocowinity, NC USA 09/22/2006

Your guidebook was great however the people in Poland, Slovakia and Hungary now refer to this part of the world as Central Europe. You should change the guide's name.

Cathy Stone in Albany, NY USA 09/10/2006

Best accommodation AND dinner (in Bolkow, Poland, a town of 5000 in Silesia, about 2 hrs SE of Berlin): Hotel Bolkow: a charming hotel in a town famous for its castle. Tb: 200zl or ($62 Amn doll). Lovely dining room, painted in tangerine, with flowers, candles, and an accommodating staff. Owner Barbara Wojeieka bought the hotel 15 yrs ago (moved down from Warsaw). Dinner delicious and reasonable. Breakfast hearty; waiters even offered "Engl brkfst" the second day. Hotel website www.hotel-bolkow.pl.

Linda Beck in Souderton, PA USA 09/06/2006

On August 25, 2006, I returned from a three-week family trip in Germany, Austria, Poland, Czech Republic and Netherlands. I don’t travel on tours. I make my own reservations utilizing TripAdvisor.com, Rick’s and the net. My wife and three kids love to experience what the locals have to offer, mainly restaurants.

Restaurant u Pinkasu, in Prague, is a tourist trap, where the old communist mentality of hustling is still vividly present. Our waiter, Pavel Gazarek, tried to implement the basic tourist rip-off techniques. The nightmare started when we ordered pork chops, he served us pork medallions, which are cheaper. He eventually presented me with the check. On the special of the day the beers were included, clearly marked in the menu and special board located on the entrance of the restaurant. He tried to charge me for them. Then, he tried to negotiate the tip, which is not customary, changing the amounts being charge to my credit card. At one point, I stood up and went over to where he was getting the authorization for my credit card. He grabbed my arm and tried to intimidate me, in a violent matter. I am not easily intimidated; I work for the U.S. Federal Bureau of Prisons. I did not punch him because my family was there and I was in the Czech Republic. Eventually he realized that I was not backing down and entered the correct amount.

The next day we went to U Provaznice, another local restaurant, where we had excellent food and a great time, with no headaches. The Czech Republic is a country going through a transition from communism to capitalism. It is taking them longer to understand the concept. ADVICE – Do not use credit cards at restaurants. Make sure they don’t serve you a cheaper meal, and that they don’t charge you “taxes”. The taxes are included in all meal. Don’t be afraid to confront the waiters, whom the rest of our trip were very helpful.

Nicelio in Nort Tustin, Ca USA 09/02/2006

The line at the Budapest international tickets counter can get very long, so here's a tip to avoid the line: we went from Budapest to Prague and decided to try just getting on the train (mind you, the one without the compulsory reservations needed), used our railpass that covered Hungary, paid for the segment through Slovakia (14 euros/person, 2nd class), got off at Breclav, the Czech/Slovak border station, and got a $10 ticket to Praha from there, changing to another train. It's MUCH, MUCH cheaper than the perhaps... $80-100 one may pay for the one way trip point to point from Budapest to Prague.

Ljubljana: in addition to the "probat" of "div prosic salama" you can get at the market, try the "mems salama" - goat salami. It's pretty good, and better than the wild boar, in my opinion.

Jim Diego in Ann Arbor, MI USA 09/02/2006

I was in Prague in June 2006 with my family. I had found many good references for tour guide Sarka Pelantova (www.prague-guide.info)including in Rick Steves Best of Eastern Europe 2006 guide. I booked her in advance. We booked her for 3 days (2 days in Prague and a 1 day trip to Cresky Krumlov). She was absolutely fantastic. Her personal approach was really great. I appreciated her taking the time to take us to special out of the way places, places we would have never found on our own or if we had taken a standard tour. Her knowledge, enthusiasm, personality and humor made out visit to Prague truly amazing. This is our 5th summer of traveling for a full month throughout Europe. Every summer we take a different itinerary and visit 4-5 countries. I always try to find private tour guides in each major city. It is the only way to really understand a city. After finishing our visit with Sarka in Prague I asked my family members what the thought about Prague and our tour. The response was that Sarka was the best tour guide we have had in our 5 years of touring and that Prague was in the top 5 of all cities ever visited. Book her early because she is in high demand. If she is busy, she does have a group of other guides that work for her. I understand that these guides are also very good, but ask for Sarka first.

Jay in Scottsdale, AZ USA 08/14/2006

July, 2006. The Prague Castle has added a great new permanent exhibit, and changed the way they charge admission forthe castle overall. The exhibit on the "Story of Prague Castle" took us almost two hours, covering the history, aftifacts from the castle, and included a 40 minute video. Exhibit is in Royal Palace, so we were able to see the palace as well. We highly recommend it. 140 CK adults, or 260 CK family rate. website is www.story-castle.cz Also, we highly recommend this hiking book: Cicerone Guide to the Julian Alps of Slovenia, by Justi Carey and Roy Clark www.cicerone.co.uk It has detailed maps and descriptions of short walks and treks, some trailheads reachable by public transport. We are in our 50's and found the walks to be very doable, and described by various diffuculty levels.

Lori Guderyon in Madison, WI USA 08/14/2006

If you're heat sensitive, avoid Central Europe in the summer, especially during a heat wave like this summer! Since only pedestrian traffic was allowed in the city of Piran, we chose not to endure the 104 degree, unshaded walk into town. Villa Preseren in Bled is quaint, but not being air-conditioned, it was not our best sleep. Most of the great attractions, museums, churches and charming restaurants that we visited are not air-conditioned.

Chris in Hendersonville, NC USA 08/06/2006

We found out that even with Eurorail Passes, one must have a seat reservation for First Class. What happens is Second Class pass holders will, understandably, try to sit initially in the First Class cars, and if there is space, they are allowed to stay. The Conductors are very lenient. We all had First Class, except my grandson (his preference because, "It's more fun," he said). If there was space he was allowed to sit with us in First Class, (if nothing was going on in Second). If travelers want to be sure of getting a seat in First Class, thhe must make a reservation (it's a nominal fee). The old Communist era train stations in Czech and Poland do not have escalators nor elevators. Thankfully, I had family with me to carry my luggage up and down the many stairs.

Marlene Ruff in El Dorado Hills, CA USA 07/12/2006

For those who need to do laundry in Budapest, there is a new "American Style" laundromat on Ó ut. between Hajos and Nagymez?.

Eva Morse in Malden, MA USA 07/10/2006

The island of Hvar off Croatia, near Split, is paradise! We arrived in Hvar Town on a Jadrolinija Catamaran from Split, about a 50 minute trip. This island is so lovely, and has many island day trip possibilities by boats right at the harbor.

We spent 5 nights at Apartments Milicic www.apartmentsmilicic.com, which were wonderful, with a full kitchen and great a/c. We rented Apt.2 with it's private terrace with full sea view and 2 bedrooms. The only problem is it is about a 25 minute walk from the harbor and restaurants, just up the road from Hotel Podstine (same road, sobe is towards Hvar town on this road). The map on their web site is not adequate. From the harbor path you must go up 2 very steep sets of stairs, not easy with any luggage at all. There is no sign as to their idenity out front, but it is located by the two large palmtrees. A taxi from the harbor would be much better on your first trip. We cooked in 4 evenings and ate on our terrace which was lovely. There is a good Konkum market and fresh produce market each morning close to the bus station, in town.

One day we rented a rental car from Hertz, located at Pelegrini Travel Agency, at the harbor front and drove much of the island. We stopped at small, hidden beaches for a swim in the clearest water, and had wine at Konoba Dvor Dubokovje in Pitve. This is really a special place and offers dinner also beginning at 6 p.m. No lunch service. We had views of Brac as we drank Ivica Dubokovic's excellent homemade wine.

Don't miss a walk up to the fortress for stunning views, or a day trip to Bol, on Brac, offered by various agencies on the island. They have a list of daily excrusions outside their offices.

Returning to Split is easy on Jadrolinija, Krilo or Splittours catamarans. www.jadrolinija.hr, www.krilo.hr, www.splittours.hr We took a 7:45 a.m. catamaran, but there is also one leaving at l p.m. Once you are on any of these islands, or cities in Croatia, you will find more transportation options than you can find on the net at home.

Lorrie in Cincinnati, Oh USA 07/09/2006

After receiving no replies from other hotels we found a web site for Hotel Batory in Krakow. www.hotelbatory.pl We booked a room easily. Upon arrival we found it to be be within a 15 minute walk from the train station. In addition the staff and accomodations were great. It was about a 10 minute walk to the square. We found nothing to complain about and I would recommend it to anyone. You might consider it for future guide books. Phone: +4812/294 30 30 or Fax: +4812/294 30 33 Address: ul.Soltyka 19 31-529 Krakow

Add the note that Bratislava is a great day trip from Vienna. We enjoyed it very much and wish we had planned for more time there.

Dan Koebel in Seattle, WA USA 07/08/2006

In Budapest we stayed at Hotel Victoria and they rec a rest about 1o minutes walk called Kasca. It was UNREAL with piano, violins, etc and excellent food. All for <$100!!!

Tks again to all you guys for the great work you do. Before I knew or you had an eastern europe book, I emailed you on Budapest a few years back and your rec Hotel Victoria. TKS!

I started using all Rick's books, DVD's , etc. back in 2000 after my first trip to Europe. We've been back now 6 times and used all your recs---they are superb!!!

Don Whigham in Dallas, TX USA 06/25/2006

Please consider the La Fontaine restaurant in Krakow for your book. Perhaps under the SPLURGE section. We were guests of the La Fontaine B & B and loved it (which you recommended) With a perfect location on Krakow"s Square it is indeed what your guide book said and more. Please check out their included restautant. The food was absolutely delicious and beautifully presented. Wonderful desserts, jish dishes 40 zl and soups with delightful rolls only 15 zl. The price was competitive with the restaurants on the square (especially when you consider the %15 discount to the B & B guests)and Much better. (We ate on the square only 1 night and then returned to La Fontaine for the rest of our stay) I have celiac Disease with special dietary requirements and the chef spoke with me personaly the first night and for the next 2 nights selecting my dinner was no problem. Either Fodor or Frommer recommends this restaurant so I hope you will include it in your guide also.

maryAnn Bray in Alton, Il USA 06/24/2006

While we were in Krakow earlier this month, we had a guide that made the trip most memorable. His name is Andrzej (Andrew) Durman. He was extremely helpful in getting us from the train station and taking us around the city. He also spent a full day (until 9pm)taking us to Auschwitz. His insights and knowledge made the experience even more incredible. He then drove us through the Polish countryside on the way back to Krakow. We saw a slice of Poland we would not have experienced otherwise if not for this man. He speaks English very well, is extremely engaging and conversed with us on a variety of subjects (life under Communism, ancient and current history of the reqion, etc). He is also very reasonable priced. His website is www.ceti.com.pl/source

Eddie Mire in Austin, TX USA 06/20/2006

Use some of the guides Rick recommends. We used two guides that worked for Sarka Pelantova in Prague and they were wonderful. Had been in Prague before but saw areas of the city I didn't know existed. Price was very resonable. Also booked two tours in Krakow with Marta who is in Ricks books and was not disappointed. It's wonderful to have a private guide to ask questions and take you off the beaten path.

Terri Eggeman in valrico, FL USA 06/20/2006

In Budapest we found a bookstore with lots of English language titles and a very helpful English speaking staff. The name of the store is "Best Sellers" and along with current titles they have english language newspapers. It's located on Oktober 6 Utca about one block north of Erszebet Ter.

Roger M in Portland, OR USA 06/17/2006

For people going to Prague with small children and a stroller - large air-inflated tires work best. Most of Prague that visitors will see (and walk about) is cobblestone which is tough on the hard plastic wheels on the small, umbrella type strollers and hard on the occupant(s) of the strollers. Also, if you are travelling with a dog be aware that all dogs must be equipped with a muzzle - it doesn't have to be worn at all times but it must be visible (I attached it to the leash) and a hefty fine can be imposed if the dog has no muzzle. Best to bring one with as pet stores are hard to find!

Jennifer Kasberger in Faistenau, austria 06/17/2006

Bratislava is worth a three hour visit - that's about it. The train ride from Vienna takes all of one hour, and you are whisked into a totally different place. The train station, Bratislava Petrzalka, is located in a Communist suburb, nobody speaks English, and there are guards everywhere asking to see passports. We wound up getting lost in the suburb, which was quite an adventure. There were 10 story cement apartment buildings for miles and miles, and nobody who spoke English, and we do not speak Slovak. The Old Town is charming - restaurants are reasonable, crystal and porcelain is CHEAP, but clothes are outrageously expensive. Lots of repair work under way. Must visit -- if you are a chocoholic, visit Cokolodovna in the Old Town. The hot chocolate is to DIE FOR! This is no Swiss Miss.

Alan Sheptin in Goldens Bridge, NY USA 06/15/2006

located in Brasov on 12, Apollonia Hirscher street(near the Piata Sfatului and "Auld Scotish Pub") the "Cyber Cafe"- internet and coffee shop is a home-for-home for Brasov visitors, students and local internet fans.

You can chose from 9 working stations and peripherals for all your need(color printer, cd units, cd-burner, webcams, WiFi connection etc.) while you sip from a large selection of coffee, teas, juice and beer and relax while you surf over the web, work, write or read. A beautiful room behind big french-windows brings to you the fragrance of old cafes (paintings,rugs,pottery pieces).

Our friendly staff is always on hand to assist you daily from 11 am to 10 pm and on weekends from 12 noon to 10 pm. Our prices are the lowest in town (only 0.50 USD/hour or 0.15 cents/30 minutes) and services quality the best.

manuela bugan in brasov, Romania 06/13/2006

For Berlin, use the S-bahn or U-bahn.

Krakow - for the popular restaurants, make sure you get there early as they fill up and the one's we went to didn't have a "waiting list". They just said sorry they were full.

Jeannie Fiser in Cincinnati, OH USA 06/12/2006

The quality of Budapest food was a most pleasant surprise. Although we had an apartment for a week we ate most lunches and every evening meal in restaurants around the city and were always pleased with the taste, presentation, and price. Preferring a more local scene we stayed away from the Vadi Utca and the riverfront and ate in both working class and slightly higher end places in Lizst square, Raday Utca and the area around St. Stephen's cathedral. We like a variety of food including lots of vegetables, poultry, salads etc. and compared with Prague and Paris(!) the Budapest food scene does very well. And it's a heck of a lot cheaper. The added bonus was the excellent local beer. Budapest was at the beginning of a trip this May that ended with a week in France and in our memory the food in Budapest was the best of the trip.

Roger M in Portland, OR USA 06/09/2006

Krakow, Poland, was wonderful!

Kirk Greiner in Edmonds, WA USA 06/09/2006

In April my daughter and I traveled for 2 weeks through Eastern Europe. We took the night train from Budapest to Prague. It was a fun experience but not one we'd duplicate often. We didn't get much sleep despite the fact we had a sleeper. We booked our train/sleeper through a travel agent in Budapest which was cheaper than using the website from the US. What we HADN'T anticipated was that upon our arrival in Prague (we voted it the ugliest train station) at 6am many services were not available. We were able to get cash from an ATM but had a hard time getting change so we could be a metro ticket from the machines. We DID have tea in the cafe in the mezzanine which we wouldn't have known about except for Rick's book.

Jane Stump in Orlando, fl USA 05/30/2006

Slovenia, Budapest, Krakow, Prague, Berlin - May 2006

We just returned from 3 weeks in Eastern Europe. Here is some rambling feedback that may hopefully be of some help to those considering a visit. Generally, English is spoken in the tourist centers and by anyone under 30.

Train Travel - We travelled by train - always show your ticket to the conductor when you get on the train to make sure you are getting on the right train. This is the first time we have travelled in a sleeper (after 12 trips to Europe) - did not care for it. The constant movement of the train makes it hard to get into a deep sleep; the officials wake you up at borders to check passports (no, the conductor will not take your passport and show it for you - the officials want to check you out when they look at your passport); you generally arrive so early that you have 5-6 hours to kill before getting a room and nothing is open. So we opted for train travel during the day. There were nonsmoking cars on every train we took.

Slovenia - don't miss Lake Bled. The island with the monastery in the middle of Lake Bled with the snow covered Alps in the background is amazing. Every photo you take is postcard material. We took the bus from Ljubljana – it’s easy and comfortable.

Budapest - highlights: Vaci Utca pedestrian mall – fun shops - remember to look up because the buildings are gorgeous; and the view from the castle (wish there wasn’t scaffolding on the front of the parliament building).

Krakow – construction at the train station and a minimum of signs make it a little tricky getting to the city center – only a 10 minute walk away. The market square is very impressive. One of the best people watching squares in Europe, so plant yourself in one of the outdoor cafes and enjoy. The moat that encircled the old city center is now a tree lined green strip – great place to take a nice leisurely walk with the locals and their dogs at the end of the day.

Prague – this city was the highlight of the entire trip. It is street after street of beautiful old buildings that are works of art in and of themselves. It is a feast for the eyes to just walk around in the old part of the city. The city is very safe feeling – but – pickpockets are at an epidemic level on public transportation, so wear a money belt and be conscious of being “accidentally” bumped.

Berlin – don’t miss the Reichstag because the glass dome is very impressive and provides an incredible view of the city. Berlin is very big and the sites are spread out so you will have to use public transportation. The metro has many lines and it can be confusing. Generally, the S Bahn is above ground, the U Bahn is underground. They are separate systems although they are usually in the same stations. The lines are color coordinated which is helpful. Each track will have a sign telling you where the next metro train is going and how long before it arrives.

There wasn’t a hint of anti-Americanism anywhere we visited. Lots of cigarette smoke in Eastern Europe and so you have to deal with it as best you can. We felt safe day and night in every city. Enjoy – we did!

Ray and Sally Lafayette, California

Ray & Sally McFalone in Lafayette, CA USA 05/29/2006

Rick, you should advise Prague travelers looking for a cheap but delicious lunch/supper to try a grilled "Vaclav's Sausage" on the south side of Wenceslaus Square, across from Hotel Europa, cooked nice and brown by two friendly young women. For those who want something less spicy, the "Bavarian Sausage" also is tasty.

Your recommended Hotel Lunik is ALL non-smoking rooms (bless em!) and there's free internet in the lobby. This was my second time in Prague, second time using your books.

Ron Pyke in Valparaiso, IN USA 05/06/2006

We had a similar experience in booking rooms at the lodge in Plitvice. We received no answers to e-mails or faxes. I finally called and was able to book two rooms, but I booked last July for this summer. Their phone number is 011-385-53/751-100. Good luck.

Harriet Achtman in Scottsdale, AZ USA 04/26/2006

Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia. Does anyone know how to make a reservation at one of the lodges at Plitvice Lakes National Park? We plan to be there in June and have e-mailed Rick's suggested site numerous times, also faxed them. But still no response. I would like a response if only to say "we are full". Nancy, Franklin, TN April 25, 2006

Nancy Burke in Franklin, TN USA 04/25/2006

A few months ago, I was lucky enough to talk with Rick during the taping of his radio show about our planned trip to Slovenia (on a trip also including Hungary and Venice). Slovenia was the best, and the best of Slovenia was the Tourist Farm Mulej, on the edge of Bled. (We also stayed at the Tourist Farm Hudicevec, which both Rick and the Mulej family recommend, and it was fine, but this was even better.) We did not want to stay in a Bled hotel, so we found the Tourist Farm Mulej on the internet, www.mulej-bled. We stayed in their new guesthouse, in a huge, beautiful room with a balcony and gorgeous view of the farm and the mountains. It was only 60 Euros a night per couple for room with half-board. The food was great. The other guests for the two nights we were there were an Australian couple and an Italian couple. We all became friends. On our second night, the husband sat down with all of us to show us the family tree from 1610, and coins from the same era that his father found in boxes under the floor boards of the old farmhouse. He talked about the days when his ancestors "worked for the castle", and what it was like for his family under communist rule. The husband speaks excellent English (he says that it gets better every tourist season), and was very helpful. We had a beautiful day of snow on the day we planned to go to the island, and we were not sure if a boat would be in operation. He said, "Let me call my friend", and found out that one boat would operate. The Australian couple went with us, and we had a magical trip to the island, just the four of us, with the island all to ourselves. I cannot recommend the Tourist Farm Mulej highly enough. Please check it out and try to include it in the 2007 edition of your guidebook.

The Skocjan Caves were awesome, and well worth the effort. Piran was beautiful. I had talked with Rick about possibly visiting Izola, which he did not recommend. Our new friends, the Australians, however, had told us how charming Izola had been for them, so we did visit, and found it beautiful, with smaller crowds than in Piran.

When we left Bled, we drove to Lake Bohinj, and took the cable car to the top of Vogel Ski Resort. This was the day after the snow, and it was indescribably beautiful. Our photos look like calendar pictures.

We told the helpful lady at the local TI that later in the day, we would be driving to the Postojna area. She recommended that we take the car train to Podbrdo, which would save driving time. That sounded great. When we were loading onto the car train (you drive on the open rail car, and sit in the car for the ride) the railroad man told us the there had been a landslide on Route 403, and the road was closed. Therefore, we would have to go on to Baca. The cost for the car and two people was only 11 Euros. For 50 minutes, we were treated to the most magnificent scenery of our lives! I would recommend this car train simply for the stunning scenery through the mountains, without the stress of trying to keep your car on the narrow roads. It appeared that the local children ride this train as their 'school bus'.

Also on this trip, we were in Hungary. We found the staff at the Kalvin House in Pest very helpful with restaurant and travel suggestions. One tip was to take the bus to Eger, instead of the train. They said it would be more comfortable. We took the Metro to the Stadion station, and the bus station was next door. The trip was about 2 hours (a little less for the direct bus). One bonus was that in Eger, the bus station is more centrally located than the train station, so it was easier getting to our B&B (Mrs. Kleszo at the Dobo Vendeghaz was great).

Venice was also great. We stayed at the Foresteria Valdese Venezia, which worked out well. One tip--room #18 has a beautiful canal view, and a ceiling height of about 6'5". My husband, however, is 6'6", so he could not fully stand up in the room. We were not spending much time in the room, so it was not a big deal.

I would like to thank Rick for his books and all of his advice. If it were not for Rick, we would be saying, like our friends, "Slovenia--where is that, and why would you want to go there?" We did not meet any other Americans in the 5 days we were in Slovenia.

Marlene Eaton in Greenhills, OH USA 04/23/2006

Renovation of Prague's main train station Hlavní nádraží will start this summer & continue through 2009. They are going for an upscale Galleria type of look with plenty of shops & eateries to bring it up with western europe's standards. So far the word on the street is there will be no interuption of train service, as only one part of the station at a time will be overhalled. Expect some confusion entering & leaving the station during the construction period.

DFloyd CA USA 04/20/2006

When making reservations in Prague, Athos Travel was consistently cheaper than prices quoted on the various hotel websites.

Zoe Trieff in Austin, TX USA 03/16/2006

We have discovered that if Rick says something is really good, you can count on it. We have found his recommendations more accurate that other books we have used. Keep up the good work!

Jill Van Langeveld in Salt Lake City, UT USA 02/13/2006

Adventure activities on the water in Croatia My family of 5 (2 adults and 3 teenagers) highly recommend sea kayaking out of Dubrovnik with Ivana Grzetic of Adria Adventures (www.adriatic-sea-kayak.com) It is fantastic to look at the Dubrovnik wall from the other side and they have tours for all abilities. Other not to be missed activities are rafting and canoeing on the Cetina River with Toni Poljak and Dalmatia Rafting (www.dalmatiarafting.com). Toni is the best guide on the river and his equipment is top quality. (He is also the only one who has wet suits so you can go on the water no matter what the temperature.) The prices are reasonable and the scenery breathtaking. We drove up the coast from Dubrovnik to Split, staying in Stanici at Villa Daniela (this sobe has a wonderful host, Danci Sinobad, www.dalmacija.net/villa-daniela)while we did our activities with Toni. Make sure you visit the fantastic stalagmite/stalactite caves with him; the gentleman who gave us our tour explained that it was family owned and his grandfather had discovered the caves as a boy. Stanici is less than an hour from Split, but is a much more relaxing place to stay.

Geri Foster in Wassenaar, Netherlands 02/10/2006

I've taken a group of my graduate students to Prague and Budapest each winter for several years. We have had very good experiences with Sarka Pelantova in Prague (mentioned in the book). In Budapest we have had very good experiences with a tour guide not mentioned in the book, but whom I can recommend: Gabriella Torok (www.privatetoursbudapest.com) -- well-informed, good English, pleasant and helpful, and willing to do what we suggest. (She was recommended by a colleague at a Budapest university, and I have other US colleagues who also have had good experiences using her as a guide.)

G. Weaver in Newark, DE USA 02/08/2006

Dobrý den! The Image Theatre on Pa?ižská 4 in Old Town Square of Prague, currently has performances only at 8 PM. It is possible, through www.imagetheatre.cz to reserve a seat for only CZD (Czech Crowns) 400.00, but the reserved tickets must be paid for before 1 PM the same day as the performance, and in cash. At high season the price may go up to 450 or 500 Crowns.

Note that page 120 in "Best of Eastern Europe 2006" is quoting from the "Fiction" play. There are other plays that change according to the schedule on the website, like "Black Box", "Clonarium" and "Cabinet".

d?kuji! Josh Hanz

Josh Hanz in Frisco, TX USA 02/03/2006

The Hotel Delibab across from Heroes Square is wonderful. A very friendly staff and the daily continental breakfast was great. My husband and I stayed for a total of 10 days last year.

Also, the third weekend in June (it was the 23rd in 2005) the museums of Budapest open for the museum night festival. For a flat rate you can visit almost all the museums in town where free concerts of various genres is being played until late in the night. We were able to see three! Including the Aquincum at night lit by torches; it was fantastic! Included in the price of the ticket is bus transportation to all the events. There were also fireworks over the Danube and the Chain bridge was shut down for a street fair. If you plan to be here in late June and want to party all night, you must do this!

The Gellert Baths have become far too touristy. We didn't hear anything but American voices at the outdoor pools. Although the inner baths, which are segregated by sex, and had optional clothing, were less "touristy". I would recommend the Szechenyi Baths instead. We were about the only non-Hungarian speakers there. Much more fun in the giant "whirl" pool. One Hungarian woman and I kept bumping into each other and laughing.

Lisa Matthews in Pomona, Ca USA 01/30/2006

I would suggest adding information on other islands off the Dalmatian Coast. I would call this book Central Europe and write another book on the "real" Eastern Europe. In Llubljana, add the "End of Summer Festival" the last weekend in August. It was fabulous. Music on every street corner and food stalls in the squares. The Hotel Emonec was in center of eveything and very nice and friendly

Daryl Hartnett in Colorado Springs, CO USA 01/26/2006