PortugalFavorite discoveries or tips: [Somehow only my contact info got printed... I'll try again. Portugal’s northernmost ‘site worth visiting’ isn’t Porto. It’s Braga! Braga is indeed wonderful–it’s Portugal’s third largest city, having recently surpassed Coimbra. It’s home to the Igreja de Bom Jesus, Portugal’s most popular tourist site after Lisbon and Fatima. It’s also one of Portugal’s oldest cities– as “Bracara Augusta”, it was the capital of the Roman Province of Gallicia (the first Christian martyr, St. Vincente, was killed in Braga in 303AD). When the Roman Empire fell at the end of the 4th Century, northeastern Iberia, with Braga as its capital, fell to the Swabians, a Germanic tribe that was Christianized well before the Franks of what’s now France, and the Sé, Braga’s remarkable cathedral, was started in the 10th Century over the site of an earlier Swabian church (with stones from the Roman walls!). The Sé has a remarkable treasury/museum which includes cathedral artefacts dating back a thousand years, including an 11th Century chalice and paten used by the then-archbishop, along with some amazing art and ivory statuettes, ecclesial jewelry, etc., reflecting Portugal’s one-time colonial wealth. There are multiple museums and galleries in the city, ranging from pre-Roman archeological museums to those focussing on modern art, a lively theater scene (Teatro Circo is worth touring even if nothing is playing!), and Braga is also in the center of the ‘Vinho Verde’ country (a marvelous, light, ‘new wine’), and just north of the Douro, home of Port wines. And, for some reason, Rick Steve’s readers (and most tourists) have never heard of it!] The Rev'd Canon Francis C. Zanger in Braga, Portugal 07/03/2008 The Rev'd Canon Francis C. Zanger, D.Min. Presbítero da Igreja Lusitana, e da Diocesa da Carolina do Sul Praça do Bocage, No 8, 3o -Dto - Fr 4710-360 BRAGA Portugal Tml: [351]961390708 Canon Francis C. Zanger, D.Min. in Braga, Portugal 06/28/2008 One challenge for Lisbon is what to do on Mondays, as most tourist places are closed. From your book we choose a day trip to Sintra, knowing that we'd miss the wonderful Pena Palace. However, unlike your guidebook, Pena Palace is now open on Mondays, so we were able to see all the major sites (only the smaller museums were closed.) Thus we recommend that you promote more highly that lisbon travelers consider the Sintra day trip as an ideal Monday. Also, the best station to leave from is Rossio, as the other stations no longer have direct trains to Sintra, and Rossia is open and is between and has direct connections to both Restradores (blue line) and Rossio (green line) Metro stations. We also stayed at the new Hotel Zenit Lisboa, in the Saldanha district, one block from the Saldana Metro station. A quiet business and residential district, with plenty of small cafes and restaurants, yet only a jump away from going everywhere in Lisbon. Our room was very modern (two years old) and only 79 a day. You should consider researching it to add to your book -- it was recommended to me by man who spends 2 months a year in Lisbon on business. Christopher Allen in Berkeley, CA USA 05/05/2008 Great vegetarian buffet in Lisbon called Jardim dos Cerejas, Calcada do Sacramento, no. 36 Chiado, Lisbon 8.90 euros. F. & C. Weiss in Victoria, BC Canada 05/03/2008 Alquimia Restaurant in Tavira Rua Jolio Vas Corte Real,80-8800-351 919057686 or 962381103 Quaint-outdoor tables with candles, inside cozy, service excellent-owner brought us complimentary sherry-serve steak on a stone! Truly enjoyable evening-consider adding to guide. Joan in JACKSONVILLE, FL USA 01/17/2008 I took the train from Lisbon to Lagos from the Entrecampos station--easier and faster to get to from my hotel by bus and/or metro than Oriente. It was also fun to stumble upon the top of the Elevador de Santa Justa next to the Campo church ruins--all the beautiful views, none of the cost or wait. I found the website http://thomasallen.home.sapo.pt/travel/ (or www.algarvebus.info) very helpful in planning my trip to Sagres--it had all the bus and train schedules updated for winter, especially important since I was travelling the day after Christmas. The EVA website was also helpful and gave the bus prices. Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 01/05/2008 We LOVED our daytrip to Sintra & Cascais with Inside Lisbon!! The pace of the tour was perfect, we were allowed plenty of time to wander through Sintra and were even dropped off at our hotels upon return to Lisbon. Our guide Edgar was fantastic, much better than the walking tour guides with the same company. http://insidelisbon.com/EN/en_passeios_sintra.htm We really liked the hotel we stayed at - Hotel Alif. The location at Campo Pequeno was ideal for catching the metro and also there's a huge shopping mall, including a supermarket underneath Campo Pequeno (the bullfighting ring). http://www.hotelalif.pt/ Karis in Cross Plains, WI USA 01/04/2008 Rick's guidebook was excellent. We packed in more into our trip than we would otherwise have, and also saved money with his tips. Also, since we are vegeterians, it would have helped with some more veggie restaurants. Uma Murthy in Blacksburg, VA USA 01/03/2008 In a previous tip, I mentioned that some highway numbers shown on maps may not be correct - to go for the name of the (next) town if in doubt. You may want add that highway often have more than one number. My apologies if this is covered in your guidebooks. We left in a hurry and only had 2005 editions. Also, we found that Mapquest worked great. Other applications such as Yahoo Maps may work also. Our directions from Spain to Evora, Pt were perfect - and up to date! Restored confidence in my navigationally-challenged spouse. Don Karpen in Talent, OR USA 10/16/2007 www.sidecartouring@netcabo.pt We recently spent a short 2 ½ days in Lisbon on our way to the Algarve. We did the 3 hour English speaking walking tour, which I recommend. Only 10 euros with Lisboa card, it really gave us a flavor of the layout of the city with a lot of history thrown in. Our plan for the next day was to visit Sintra. I intended on taking the Metro to the Sete Rios Station, buses or cabs in Sintra. The night before I was thumbing through the Lisboa card coupon book and found Sidecar Touring Co. On a whim, I called and spoke to the owner, Joao (call me John) de Lemos Soares. He told me they do several tours but it’s the only way to see Sintra. He quoted 140 Euros for the day for the two of us. He heard my wife’s hesitation in the background and promised to show up himself. The next morning at 9 am a vintage 1940’s Russian motorcycle appeared with it’s sidecar and John. Normally he would spend 5 or 6 hours. Our first stop was the bakery in Belem when he heard we hadn’t stopped for pastiches when we walked by the day before. We toured the entire huge complex, watched the bakers, heard the history and had our pastiches and coffee, and he wouldn’t let us pay—“It’s included”, he told us. We then hopped on the bike and took the coastal road to Sintra, stopping in Cascais for a coffee. He never goes more than 35 mph (though my wife said it feels faster in the sidecar). In Sintra there are no long uphill walks or buses. He drives right to the gate of whatever sight, castle or home we want to see. When we had lunch he gave us our choice, but steered us 100 yards away from the obvious restaurants across from the National Palace to a tiny place offering multiple types of cuisine for lot less money. (It may have been the Café Villa you mention in your book.) John wouldn’t let me buy his lunch. After lunch, the winding road to the Moorish wall and Pena palace by motorcycle is the only way to go. Before we headed back, John took us to a little pastry shop he frequented in his youth for another pastry and coffee. I didn’t write down the name but it has a statue of a little black man in front and is named for that. (In the US it would be banned just as the book Little Black Sambo from my own childhood is now extinct.) At the end of the day we took the IC-19 back to our front door (or wherever you want him to drop you) and got back at 5:30. We actually hit 40 mph. Eight and a half hours for 112 euros (20% off with the Lisboa card) is quite a bargain. I gave John the full 140 euros (he was quite surprised at the tip). When you look at the convenience, the door to door service, the personal guide with history thrown in, the pastiche and coffee—I can’t imagine a better value. In terms of safety, he has about 14 bikes, they are in great condition, the drivers go through all sorts of training and I never felt in danger. I highly recommend you check out www.sidecartouring@netcabo.pt. Michael Newmark Reno, NV Michael Newmark MD in Reno, NV USA 10/15/2007 A word about Lagos... In the same way you acknowledge (In the Spain book) the Costa Del Sol sites being better off season, Lagos was quite wonderful in late September Robert Turner in San Francisco, CA USA 10/13/2007 Guincho beach southwest of Sintra, Lamego south of Regua Cort Cramer in Watertown, MA USA 10/02/2007 Rick, I agree with an earlier reader/commenter: you have to add Tomar. Of the three guidebooks I bought, only one mentions it ... and it's spectacular! Yes, it's not easily accessible unless you have a car, but there are buses and some local tours are starting to include it, so you should at least have some description, so people will know it's there ... and can decide if it's worth the effort to get there. With all the excitement about The DaVinci Code, you have to include the headquarters of the Knights Templar (Tomar's Convento de Cristo). I have a few photos and text from Tomar, the Douro Valley, and Pinhao posted on a food website: the URL is http://www.recipezaar.com/bb/viewtopic.zsp?t=208732&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15. I have lots of pictures, and if you'd like to see/use them, let me know and I'm happy to share ... Jason Zielonka in Doylestown, PA USA 08/30/2007 Figuiera do Foz. A small beach town between Lisbon and Porto. Fan in Rockville, MD USA 08/18/2007 We loved Guimaraes as a side trip from Oporto. The square in front of the Church was very nice and laid back. There were lovely shops and I enjoyed the palace and the castle. It has a sort of Washington, DC vibe. There was a group of scouts there and they were doing a play in the castle that seemed to be about the history of Portugal. It was charming. Climbing the castle walls was "perigo", but exciting in an OSHA defying kind of way. The palace (which is heavily restored)is beautifully furnished and quite impressive. Jane Leingang in Evansville, IN USA 08/06/2007 I read Karlee's post and kept saying "YES!!!" out loud to myself! I was so frustrated by the situation at the time but now reading that someone else had the exact same experience makes me laugh! I have a Washington Mutual Debit Card with the Mastercard logo. I was in Lisbon in May. NO LUCK using it! It was the only card I had too so I had NO MONEY. I was so frustrated. Fortunately I was staying with a local friend and he could cover me until I could sort out the money situation. What was odd was that I was in Portugal 3 times within a year. My WaMu card worked just find last May (2006) and again in October (2006) but then did not work at all in May (2007). It was the same card too. I couldn't figure out what had changed. Plenty of money, valid PIN, had notified WaMu prior to traveling that I would use the card out of the country, etc. My Portugese friend took me around to at least 5 banks and a currency center and explained the situation. Everyone was stumped. The bankers were trying my card themselves. Nothing worked. I gave up. Figured would sort it out at my next stop, Amsterdam. I tried it in A'dam and still no luck but different "error" message now. At this point, I called WaMu. The rep told me that she could see all my many failed attempts at cash and now my card wasn't working in A'dam b/c they had put a "fraud alert" on it due to all the failed attempts (in very rapid succession sometimes) for attempts at cash in the previous week. After explaining things to WaMu rep, "fraud alert" lifted and card worked fine in A'dam, London and Italy. To all other WaMu debit-card using travelers...don't rely on it as your sole source of payment/cash while traveling in Portugal. Christy S. in Costa Mesa, CA USA 07/24/2007 Staying in the Duoro Valley! We couldn't even bring ourselves to venture into Porto because the valley was so relaxing and beautiful (mid-point of our two week Sapin/Portugal trip, the atmosphere was perfectly timed). Our friends had gotten a recommendation for a lovely restored 16th century quinta between Pinhao and Sabrosa (drivers only). Casa de Vilarinho de S. Romao offers six lovely rooms with private baths, swimming pool, outstanding view, walkable vineyards, great breakfasts, relaxing porch, what more can I say? Owned and run by helpful Christine Olzafabel von Zeller and her friendly staff. The area requires a driver who can deal with winding up and down gorgeous mountains on narrow roads with hairpin turns, but the surrounding villages and quintas are worth the trip. Just a two and a half hour drive to Santiago de Compostela. A siight worth visiting for drivers: Santuario de Panoias near Vila Real. This pre-Roman and Roman sight of worship and animal sacrifice is a National Monument, connected to the Instituto Portugues do Patrimonio Arquitectonico. 7km from Vila Real, through Mateus via EN322 toward Sabrosa. Provides a brief film with audioguide in English and guide info around the various rocks, still marked with inscriptions and basins used in various sacrificial ceremonies. Cool place to visit; friendly bar across the street. Marcy Nicklas in Frederick, MD USA 07/23/2007 Bring cash! ATM's are easy enough to find but few shops and restaurants take credit cards. Marty in Vaughn, KY USA 07/02/2007 Lagos, Portugal_Cidade Velha Pensao Residencial We found a charming pensao in the town of Lagos, Portugal. Our stay at Cidade Velha Pensao Residencial was lovely due to the charming proprietor, Margarida Sousa. Email: residcidadevelha@netvisao.pt Telef: 282 762 041 / 2 The inexpensive double bedroom with bathroom was spotless with recent beautiful updates, and ideally located off the main strip of shops and restaurants. Our room had sheer white curtains that breezed in the cool wind and AC. Beautiful ceramic tiled bathroom with a great shower. The lobby and rooms were immaculate. 30-35 Euros. The stair case is beautiful but if needed an elevator is available. A large relaxing area located off the lobby. Ask Margarida to direct you to the German café/bakery 2 blocks away. A perfect way to begin your day. Ann Rebidas in Rochester, MN USA 06/26/2007 Avoid having too much carry-on luggage with you (as opposed to checking it). Disembarking from the plane was difficult as we all had to march down the steps with our luggage to get to the tarmac (no jet-way.) If it rains this can be particularly dangerous and slippery. Wanda Mazurek in Oak Brook, Il USA 06/21/2007 My daughter and I liked that you said to "get lost" in Lisbon. We did, several times, trying to follow the tourist map. It became our mantra. Pam Balthazar in Katy, TX USA 05/24/2007 I have been traveling almost yearly to Portugal since 1988. My wife and I have had various inconveniences related to confusion between Mastercard and MultiBanco. MultiBanco is a Portuguese bank association. Most merchants, especially outside the main tourist areas, only take MultiBanco credit cards. (I suspect they get better terms than they receive from Mastercard or Visa.) Many merchants are not even aware that they are not the same thing. Last year we frequently had to go to ATMs to get cash to pay for things when a merchant tried to run a Mastercard or Visa card through a MultiBanco store terminal. When you go to a specific MultiBanco ATM it only connects to the international ATM networks associated with the owning bank. So the Mastercard symbol means that you can probably get a cash advance out of the machine, but you are not able to actually access money from your personal bank account. To actually get money from your U.S. bank account, look at the other symbols on the back of your ATM card to find the associated ATM networks. Almost all machines will accept either Star or Cirrus. I never found a machine that accepts all three. (I have a U.S. Citibank ATM card that only works with Cirrus and a Credit Union card that only works with Star and Plus. I carry both; I have never found an ATM that did not take at least one of them.) The Portuguese banking system is still quite primitive by international standards. As late as 1988 it took 2-3 days of sitting in a bank to get a check cashed even when it was drawn on the same bank. As a consequence, most Portuguese are not very sophisticated in dealing with international banking transactions. I am not surprised that other travelers have had problems related to international ATM transactions that the local bank staff could not figure out. Bottom line: Look for Cirrus or Star and match your card to the machine. Tom Farmer in Santa Ana, Ca USA 05/18/2007 D.O.C., a delightful riverside restaurant in the Douro Valley, is located between Regua and Pinhao (closer to Regua). Roy, the owner, walked us through everything he served, providing commentary in broken English on preparation, ingredients and anything else he wanted to talk about. He worked hard to ensure that we savored the meal at his new restaurant. It was a memorable dining experience, a definite worthwhile splurge. Tel: 254-858-123. Email: doc@arisdouro.com. Vicki Phillips in Denver, CO USA 05/17/2007 We had the exact same experience with our bank cards. Luckily my mother had a money card with an international customer service number on the back and she was able to get a PIN number to use to withdraw cash. I had a mastercard debit card that would not allow me to do anything - as the previous person stated with their feedback. Everyone in Lisbon was very nice in trying to help us, but there did not seem to be anything they could do. I would suggest being VERY clear when you talk to your credit card companies before you leave and see if there are any special things you must do to use your card, such as maybe getting a different PIN number! S. Lewandowski in Kalamazoo, MI USA 05/16/2007 When my husband and I flew into Lisbon via Amsterdam, we luckily got cash out at an ATM at the Amsterdam airport because our Washington Mutual debit card (with Mastercard logo) did not work in Portugal! It did not work ANYWHERE in the entire country. We decided to cut our trip to Portugal short because we needed cash. We had bankers insist that it would work and even go out to the ATM with us, because it had the Mastercard logo on it. We tried it at a Hard Rock Cafe to see if that would work, and we called our bank confirming there were no holds and that everything was okay. We had plenty of money and the bank knew we were traveling but our card would not work and no one knew why. It just said, "invalid card." We even ended up trying to get cash out at an international bank and they wouldn't allow it. The entire country of Portugal is now using the "Multibanco" system and all ATMS have the "Mastro" or "Euro Mastercard" symbols and per the bankers they are suposed to take Mastercard but they don't. Once we got into Spain it worked great. It was VERY odd. Since lots of folks use Washington Mutual debit cards I was just wondering if you've ever run into this or if you'd be interested in putting it in your guide books as a possible issue? No one could tell us why it wasn't working because it was supposed to work per WaMu and per the Portuguese banks -- but it didn't. It wouldn't go through for hotel payments, ATMS, at restaurants - nothing. Folks at the Hard Rock said they've seen others that have had a hard time wtih their Mastercard/debit cards. Just a thought to put a warning in the book; I'm sure it would save many from a huge headache. Thanks! [Editor's Note: While we are unaware of specific problems with WaMu MasterCard debit cards in Portugal, we include a section in all of our guidebooks advising travelers to always have a couple of different sources of money: ATM cards from different banks, a couple of different credit cards, and actual US dollars you can exchange in emergencies. Needless to say, always keep the cards and cash in your moneybelt and keep your moneybelt around your waist. Ideally, split your valuables between two or more people. In our 2007 Portugal book, our Money section begins on page 11.] Karlee in Seattle, WA USA 05/11/2007 Quinta Princesa do Pinhal. Situated 3 KM north of Nazare, this beautiful bed and breakfast was a great find. 9 bedrooms, a swimming pool and fresh fruit from Leonhilde's orchard for breakfast. Fluent in English: www.princesadopinhal.com Kathleen Castleman in Evergreen, CO USA 04/24/2007 Lisboa - Restaurante Maria da Fonte, Largo Chafariz de Dentro (Alfama), Rua de S. Pedro, 5-A for a nice fado experience. They have fado Thursday through Sunday. We decided to give this place a try rather than a much more expensive (and touristy, we assumed) fado restaurant recommended by our guide on a city tour. There were three singers and two guitarists in this tiny resaurant with no more than twelve tables. It was a thoroughly enjoyable show and the food was not bad at all. Michael McDaniel in Atlanta, GA USA 03/25/2007 The walkway at the Bairro Alto in Lisbon, to the Santa Justa Elevador is now open. The passage is free of charge but the ride to the Baixa district costs the same as a single ride on the trams. A valid "7 Collinas" ticket for use on the metro, bus and tram, will work just fine. Note the snack bar at the top of Santa Justa doesn't take credit cards - cash (Euro) only. Josh Hanz in Frisco, TX USA 03/03/2007 I was at Nazaré earlier this week. The only bad part was not getting to try the percebes (barnacles). I tried two different places but with no luck. Percebes are available only in the spring and summer, so I was told. The beach dancers are on their break until about late March or so. Everything else is available, like the cable car to Sitío. Josh Hanz in Frisco, TX USA 03/03/2007 On a Monday we departed Nazare by bus at 10:35am to Obidos. It is about a one hour bus ride. By the way, we really enjoyed riding the bus in Portugal. Of the train, plane, rental car, and bus, we used on our 17 town tour of Spain and Portugal, my family and I all agree that BUS is BEST. It is also one of the cheapest ways to travel. Walk up the steps near the bus stop in Obidos and turn left to the Tourist Information booth and pick up a map and confirm when the bus departs back to Nazare. We loved Ricks walking tour of Obidos. It was fun to walk along the old castle wall - a nice destination change from touring churches and palaces. We had lunch, took lots of photos, had time to shop and departed by bus at 15:23. We transfered in the town of Rainha immediately upon arrival to another bus that took us to Nazare. We inquired at the Nazare bus station about a return bus from Obidos. The bus clerk said that the bus returned to Nazare around 18:00, giving us more time than we wished to spend in Obidos. The 15:23 bus was just right. But, we had to transfer to another bus quickly in Rainha or we would have missed the connection. Jan Wishau in Columbia, MO USA 02/24/2007 Take the 6:50AM bus from Nazare to Lisbon. Cafe Avenida, across the street from the bus station in Nazare opens at 6:30, enough time to grab a cup of coffee and a pastery before boarding the bus. The bus is a joy, the best way to travel through Portugal. The bus arrives in Lisbon at the Zoological bus-metro-train station. From here, you can take the metro Restaurante dor to Hotel Residencial Florescente, or you could also take a train to Sintra from the "zöö". Hotel Residencial Florescente serves a breakfast buffet (ham & cheese, bread roll, yogurt) until 10:30. So, make it an early lunch. We got an early lunch, breakfast the next day and lodging for a triple room for 70 Euros. A better rate is given if you book on the internet. We stayed during the off season - February, so the rates are probably lower. From this hotel to the airport cost 7 Euro taxi fare for the 3 of us with luggage. This was a super hotel. I loved the beautiful plaster decorations on the ceilings of our room. The location is terrific, too. geral@residencialflorescente.com tele. 213 426 609 or 213 425 062 Jan Wishau in columbia, mo USA 02/23/2007 I highly recommend public transportation, it is less stressful and cheap. Julie in Los Alamos, NM USA 02/22/2007 You might want to mention the hotel in Porto which is adjacent to Restaurante Guarany, called the "Residencial Aliados". It’s on Rua Elísio de Melo, number 27. Single rooms go for € 40.00 and up per night, during low season. There is parking in nearby parking garages with reasonable rates which they recommend, near Praça da Libertade. Josh Hanz in Frisco, TX USA 01/23/2007 We discovered that the taxi driver cheated us when we left the Lisbon airport. He claimed there was an airport tax. The deskman at our hotel (Residencial Florescente) told us the fare should have been no more than 9 Euros. He charged us 17 Euros. He told us to ask for a receipt from the taxi driver. The receipt by law must state where you were picked up, when and where you were taken. Then if there is any problem you can file a complaint with your hotel. Bill Skelton in Newnan, GA USA 01/01/2007 We did a long day trip to Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais, ending back in Lisbon. We discovered you can pick up a one day pass at the ticket window at Sete Rios Station for 12 euros. This covers the train ride to Sintra, buses to the vaious sites in Sintra, buses to Cabo da Roca, buses to Cascais, and finally the train to Cais de Sodre station. This was a real bargin for all the transportation we used to make this a long but wonderful trip. David Seto in North Brunswick, NJ USA 01/01/2007 SINTRA: Binhoteca wine bar (219240849) located at Rua das Padarias, 16 was a great find. It has a wide variety of Portuguese wine and the guys working there work very hard to pair you with a wine you will like. A fun way to sample and learn about several different wines. NAZARE: Restaurante-Pizzeria Blue Jardim (262561073) located at Rue Gil Vicente, 67B was a spotless little place run by a friendly French woman. The restaurant had great salads and pizzas as well as several pastas - a nice change from Portuguese food. Jennifer Orkney in Seattle, WA USA 11/06/2006 We flew into Lisbon mid-afternoon, rented a car, and decided to spend our first night in Obidos. We stayed at the Casa do Relogio - very friendly and quaint - good suggestion. I would like to suggest adding "The O Conquistador" to your list of restaurants for dinner. It was a "mom & pop" place that really knew how to cook fish. We enjoyed the grilled calamari and cod - tender and succulent. Good prices, good food, and extremely friendly. Deborah Buckfelder in Palmyra, PA USA 10/29/2006 posada in ourem, located near fatima w/o the craziness. there also is a fabulous roman castle a few hundred yds. up the hill that's wonderfully dramatic @ nite jim holland in chula vista, ca USA 10/28/2006 I think if someone wants to be immersed in the language of Portugal, then stay away from the Algarve. I found in the Algarve everyone understood and spoke english. It was refreshing to be in other places like Peniche, Bombarral, and Caldas de Rainha where you dont hear very much English. I didn't feel like I was in Portugal anymore. Oh and The Island of Berlenga is a BEAUTIFUL SPOT. You take a ferry from Peniche. There is a small beach, a long hike, and a Fort on this island. Also at Santa Cruz beach there is a restraunt overlooking the beach that serves the best Octopus salad (povo salad) I've ever tasted. I hated octopus until I had it there. Amanda in terrace, bc canada 10/19/2006 Each time you arrive at a new place, ask people where the cool people or students hang out and you may land on a really interesting place not found in any guidebook. In Porto, our hotel advised us to go to this bar in an old art deco parking garage where the art school is located. It was far out. If you want a hotel room with one big queen-sized bed and not two twin beds, you have to ask for it specifically. If you drive, remember that the highways have tolls and gas is more expensive in Europe. Also, Portuguese drivers are crazy. And when you get to any town and are lost at first, you can always follow signs for the "Centro" or the big "I" for the information center and that will lead you right to the center of town. When they put bread, appetizers and olives on the table and you eat them, you must pay for them. If you leave them be, they will take them away and not charge you. We always kept the olives though because they usually cost only 1-2 euros. That's the good thing about Portugal. In general it's pretty inexpensive. Cecile Bouchardeau in New York, NY USA 10/10/2006 We found that being foot-loose works; just stroll into town and look around for a place to stay; it's fun and not usually that difficult. Here are some great finds: Tavira: Quinta Do Caracol, just at edge of town, this was one of our very favorite places on our trip; felt like a Mexican retreat, bright white stucco little buildings w/ bouganvilla clinging to the walls, tel. 281 322 475, E55/nite, gorgeous grounds w/ pathways through gardens w/ little romantic sitting areas, beautiful breakfast areas inside or out in garden, gorgeous decor in rooms, charming, charming, charming. Salema: we were only ones staying here, so it was particularly great and only E6/nite, very, very funky, & pretty dirty, but we loved it, right next door to the Boia Bar, had to open gate at road, go into outdoor courtyard-like area, down couple of steps and knock on door of owners/or resident managers; very old, funky couple but right on beach, very small rm w/ window toward non-beach area, but adjacent beach patio room open to full beach view, could climb up and down to beach, small kitchen attached, we cleaned it and then did not use, too scary, but cute; we also washed the sheets and pillow cases before sleeping in them, hung up in sun to dry and went to the beach for the day; very funky place but very authentic, we sipped our wine on the beach chairs in our patio room every night and watched the waves at sunset, then strolled over to the Boia Bar for excellent fish dinners or to town; sm. grocery at rear, across little alley-street. Evora: Residencia Policarpo, rua Conde de Serra de Tourega 9, call them for directions to prkg lot or front door, tel. 266 702 424; E50/nite, ask for #101, old part of town, gorgeous old bldg, great location, great decor, beautiful views over the countryside and city, very helpful, nice staff.
Sintra: Vila Marques, rua Sotto Mayor 1, tel. 219 230 027, E45/nite, elegant old house, slightly faded & funky in old part of town. Another place in Sintra is Casa Miradouro, tel. 21 923 5900, most high-end place we stayed, you'll feel very elegant staying here, gorgeous room w/ regal French doors opening to incredible views; splurge at E130/nite. Martha Hughes in Soquel, CA USA 09/23/2006 I just returned from Lisbon and took some great walking tours that meet each morning and leave from the base of the main statue in the Rossio square. www. insidelisbon.com will connect you to their website. The walking tours are in English and you don't need advance reservations--14 euro with some knocked off for subsequent tours. I was really impressed with the knowledge and friendliness of the guides. These walks are a great introduction to Lisbon. They also have small vans that take 8 people on an intimate tour to the popular spots like Sintra, Fatima, etc. Rich in Bellingham, WA USA 09/12/2006 We discovered a beautiful Bed and Breakfast about 2 km from the center of Nazare. It's called Quinta Princesa do Pinhal (www.princesadopinhal.com, info@pricesadopinhal.com, tel. from US is 011-351-262 552 648). The house is gorgeous, quiet and it is located in the middle of a pine forest. It has easy access to the uncrowded beaches about 10 minutes from the B&B. The house is luxurious, spacious and has beautiful gardens with a swimming pool, fruit trees and even a vineyard. The hosts Leonilde and Jorge Antunes are very gracious and kind. They are very warm people and like to communicate with the guests and help with issues or questions a typical traveler may have. The rates per night is between 80-90 EURO in the summer months and 60 Euro during the winter months. We stayed here for 3 nights and used it as a base to explore the central and northern part of Portugal. We highly recommed it.
Andrea Shor in San Mateo, CA USA 08/29/2006 Nazarre: Recommend the restaurant O Veleiro. The canopy says snack bar, but it is much more. Lovingly operated by a family that converted their home into the restaurant. They catch the fish they serve and cook it to flaky perfection on the hibatchi in the alley. Rosemary Martin in Denver, CO USA 06/25/2006 I recommend the inclusion of the restaurant, "Tertulia do Loreto", Rua de Loreto, Bairro Alto, 1200-242, Lisboa ('phone 213 426 731; website: www.tertuliadoloreto.com) as deserving of inclusion. The quality of the food was excellent, the service good, its décor attractive, and the meals reasonably priced. The staff speak good English. It also is the venue for the monthly meetings of a literary discussion group. J A H Brown in Wentworth Falls, NSW 2782, Australia 06/24/2006 We stumbled upon a restaurant deep in the Alfama which served very fresh fish dishes: Barracao de Alfama, R. de S. Pedro. It was packed with local businessmen having lunch. Lunch for the two of us with wine was 31 euros. Marilyn McVicar in Richmond, BC Canada 06/21/2006 We found the driving directions at viamichelin.com, a global equivalent of Mapquest, to be detailed, accurate, and extremely helpful. Be sure to notify your bank and credit card companies about your trip, and the dates you'll be gone. Many debit/credit card companies will block a transaction if it appears unexpectedly from a new or distant location. A backpack is preferable to a wheeled suitcase when negotiating the omnipresent cobbled pedestrian walkways of Portugal. Portugal can be dusty, and the combination of sun, bright sidewalks, and light-colored buildings can be very bright. If you wear contact lenses, considering switching to glasses for your trip. And make sure to have a good pair of sunglasses. Ken Kleszynski in Portland, OR USA 06/16/2006 Rick's convertable carry on bags were lifesavers for us in being able to bypass baggage claim to make our transfers in airports getting to/from Portugal. Also since we were traveling exclusively by public transportation for two weeks, the back pack straps were terrific: comfortable, easy and practical. Rolling bags would have been no match for all the cobblestone streets and sidewalks. Anne Proulx in Dayton, OH USA 06/02/2006 Espaço Chiado at 14 rua da Misericordia is along the route of your Chiado walk. It's a small shopping center with a grotto theme, featuring an Op Art floor, cavelike walls and a brass Art Nouveau ceiling.See http://tnphoto.com/pt/chiado.htm Tom Nelson in Minneapolis, MN USA 04/30/2006 I loved the Monestery of Jeronimos. It was a fantastic display of architecture and history. They also have a timetable display showing decade by decade of start to finish of the history of the monestary. Also, I was there on a saturday when they have weddings. You were able to view the wedding from the second floor of the Cathedral which was a real treat. Mary Jane Sackela in St. Petersburg, Fl USA 04/29/2006 Well, looks like the direct Seville-Lisbon Alsa bus routing via the algarve is back. Best to check this site regularly: www.alsa.es as schedules change often. Clare MacIntosh in Halifax, NS Canada 04/17/2006 In Lisbon be sure to make the trip to Sintra even if you have to miss some of Lisbon. John in San Diego, Ca USA 04/16/2006 Alfaia Restaurante on Travessa de Queimada 22 and their Garrafeira (Wine Bar) on Rua Diario de Noticias are great. The restaurant has awesome food and a good mix of locals and tourists (75% to 25%). The wine bar is cozy with a good list of ports and nice appetisers/desserts. The service is great, so if you don't want to deal with the surly waiters at the port wine institute this is a good second choice. Michael Dunn in Decatur, GA USA 04/11/2006 The only direct bus from Seville to Lisbon that I could find was an Alsa bus that now routes through Badajoz instead of the Algarve. The route takes about 7 hours, and furthermore only runs on weekdays. I couldn't find any mention of a direct Damas bus; moreover, the listing for a direct route by rede-expressos.pt disappeared from their website as of November 2005. Instead, especially as we were travelling on a Sunday in April, we used Damas' service to Ayamonte, where we caught the ferry to Vila Real de Santo Antonio (and thence a train to Faro.) Clare MacIntosh in Halifax, NS Canada 04/09/2006 The tiny mountain castle town of Marvao on the Spanish border may have been the highlight of our trip. You can get there by a train from Lisbon (changing in Entrencampos), and although the train is slow, it moves through two hours of beautiful Alentejo farm scenery. During the weekdays, buses go there from Evora. If you had a couple of extra pages in the 2007 edition, a small mention of these small towns would surely help future travelers. Also, we found that the locals often seemed very flustered with us at first, but would always be extremely helpful in the end with getting us on the right train, etc. Everyone is very courteous, but not always super-friendly at first appearances. WDM in Tokyo, Japan 03/16/2006 Party of six spent two weeks in Portugal. Stayed for three nights in Nazare at the Hotel/Restaurant Ribamar which was a good choice because it is right on the beach. However, I would specify rooms in the rear as the night noise can be quite disturbing. From Nazare you can do very easy day trips in the countryside to Fatima (a must see for anyone no matter the faith), Tomar (very historic), Alcobaca (plan on lunch in the square in front of the church and monastery)and Batalha all of which are worth seeing. Nazare in the winter as we saw it was very quiet and in fact a lot of the restaurants are closed for the season. Am surprised that so many readers were not satisfied with Evora as we found it quite charming although really only worth a day on anyone's trip. We stayed at the Pensao Policarpo which is a converted old baron's house on the edge of the city by the University and very nice with very large rooms and typically small European bathrooms. Skip the bone church especially if you have ever seen the one in Kutna Hora, Czech Republic.
We next ventured off to the Algarve and stayed 3 nights in Lagos at a residencia that I hesitate to divulge lest it become overrun with tourists. The side trips to Sagres and other inland towns make for a very restful experience in Portugal.
We next went to Lisbon and spent five nights at the Residencia Nazareth very close to the Edward VII park. Very nice rooms,and helpful personell and best of all very reasonable (37 euros per night for a single)if you can pay cash. Lisbon offers many sights that should not be missed. We did the Port Institute, the elevador, Casa Alentejo, side trip to Sintra, the Gilbenkian museum, the Belem area, toured St. George's Castle area and all of these are as Rick describes them and well worth the tour. The Lisboans are very friendly people (although the cab drivers are lunatics) and the city very clean and very native and seemingly not over populated with tourists. Anyone visiting should take the walk from Edward VII park down the Avenado Liberdade to Placa Restauradores. Reminds one of the Las Ramblas without all the distractions along the way. A day side trip to Sintra is a must. Very picturesque with lots of artists shops. It is only a 30 minute train ride. Unless you are in phenomenal shape and under 25, do not even think about hiking to the castle.
Meals in Portugal were the most expensive thing about the trip. A typical lunch would cost 10 euros. Keep in mind that the Portugese eat their heavy meal in the afternoon so any lunch entree ordered anywhere will be quite substantial. One way of cutting back on the price of any meal is to refuse the starters that they automatically bring as soon as you sit down. This can add several euros to your meal. Also they serve potatoes with everything! The Calde Verde is like their national soup and usually very good. It is on everyone's menu. Seafood is very popular especially on the coast. One of the best meals we had was in the Cortes Ingles department store near Par Edward VII. The basement of the store is a veritable gold mine for anyone wanting to pick their own meal or food stuffs. Besides a full service grocery store there is a food station for every imaginable cuisine and all at very reasonable prices. Lisbon is a very walkable city although if need be there is a cab waiting to take you any place. There are as many cabs there as you would find in New York city and they are generally cheap. Tony Ambrose in Louisville,, KY USA 03/07/2006 The hotel Dame de Salema definitely should be added to your Salema section. After traveling throughout Costa Rica, Ireland, and Portugal, I have never been treated better than I was here. Frido and Xenia live across the street from the Villa and are amazing hosts. The contact info is: Xenia Kowatschitsch Villa Maria Salema, Lote M17 P 8650-191 BUDENS Portugal TEL (00351) 282-695682 FAX (00351) 282-695031 MOB (00351) 964-602874 e-mail(1): rop83040@mail.telepac.pt Jared in Bend, OR USA 02/20/2006 In addition to your guide book,and DVD, we purchased a Portuguese Phrasebook,and as soon as the locals saw you looking up something they would come to you and even help with the pronounciation. They were so friendly and eager to help. Norma Davis in Sydenham, On Canada 01/25/2006 Your walk in Evora was was a wonder. To see how the old Roman wall was integrated into the modern city wouldn't have been in any other book on any tour. In Lisbon you noted that the #28 trolley from the Rossio to Belem had pick pockets and there they were! You have the best and most accurate information anywhere. I got bumped on my left shoulder and a second guy went for my right pocket. I caught his jacket cuff and forcefully yanked. It was highlight of the trip. Robert and Marian Eichinger in Minneapolis, MN USA 01/21/2006 |
