IstanbulFavorite discoveries or tips: For those not interested in spending an entire day cruising the Bosphorus there are inexpensive (7YTL) 1.5 hour cruises that go as far as the second bridge with mostly locals on board. They are located on the WEST side of Galata Bridge near the bobbing restaurant boats -- not on the other side of the Bridge where touts will insist that their expensive cruise is the ONLY choice. This is mentioned in the guidebook but directions are unclear as to where to find the ticket booths. Gail Gerdemann in Albany, OR USA 06/26/2008 I found the Metro and Tramvay to be very, very good for connections from the Ataturk Airport to the Sultanahamet area. It was so inexpensive, easy and people were very friendly. While others sit in traffic in taxis and spend over $25, ride the Metro and Tramvay and spend about $3 to get there faster! Best to stay in Sultanahamet too as it is close to everything. Amy Sinclair in Novato, CA USA 06/05/2008 Java Studio Sultanahmet, Istanbul, Turkey Best coffee and carrot cake in all of Sultanahmet (beats Starbucks hands down). Great little sanctuary away from the crowds. Great staff and the Canadian owner (Jennifer) is fantastic - really helpful and friendly.
Melissa in Portland, OR USA 05/19/2008 I had a particularly good shopping experience in Istanbul in the Sultanhamet district. The Kilim Home is a storefront on an out-of-the way sidestreet - Tavukhane No. 30. It is steps from the Hippodrome/Blue Mosque. The manager, Ayhan, could not be more helpful. What caught my eye first, though, was the beautiful window display of multicolor hats - a still life photograph begging to be taken. The entire store was a pleasure and the goods are high quality. I brought home two gifts that will come complete with a story about the Turkish hospitality Ayan showed me and the tea we shared as we talked about more than just a business transaction. Rich McGourty Rich McGourty in Chicago, IL USA 05/12/2008 Istanbul Enjoyer Cafe, great Turkish food, $, great presentation, some of the friendliest waiters and managers we found. We were laughing and joking with them. We ate lunch there. Then the next day I went to get their business card and the manager remembered us. Then we ate dinner there and the same waiter laughed and joked with us. Then our waiter warmed up to us and was talking with us even more. 1/2 block behind the Cistern Address: Incili Cavus Sok. No: 25 Sultanahmet, Istanbul Inter Sport Hotel in Istanbul It's not cute, so if it's not your "style", then don't bother. But, it was a good price in a good location right across from the Grand Bazaar. Non-smoking, but not true non-smoking room. $, A/C, Triple w/private bath. 89 Euro / ni. for a triple (through a local travel agent at airport). Restaurant on 5th floor had a nice view of the boats in the strait. Free shuttle to and from the airport. Mark McKnight in Austin, TX USA 04/07/2008 On the cruise up the Bosporus, we followed your tip to get off in Sariyer. Followed your directions to a group of fish restaurants where we had the fried mussels. The price/quality of the food was terrific, and this experience will live a long time in our memories. Without your advice we never would have thought to go there. We hope to return someday and visit some of the other villages along the Bosporus, as they all seem a lot less touristy than the Sultanahment area. Gary Fogal in Renton, WA USA 03/16/2008 Add Mawi Balik restaurant (under the Galata Bridge)and Amebros Restaurant - Sultanahmet area Consider adding Hotel Niles - small rooms (Eurpean size) and some street noise but VERY clean and well-cared for, excellent staff, free internet in lobby, and great terrace cafe with view of the sea (and good continental breakfast). Add the Caligraphy Museum, over by Istanbul University. It's small (but only 3YTL, 1YTL for students) but if anyone is interested in the subject, it's a must see. Give it one star and recommend for folks staying a week. Karen Muncaster in Westford, MA USA 01/07/2008 Hagia Sophia (p. 117). Arrive early enough to be right next to the gate when it opens. Buy your ticket immediately and scurry to the entrance, beating the slower tour groups. The first time I did this I had the entire museum to myself for 3-4 minutes, and in those precious minutes I prayed, deeply moved by a sense of history and holiness in this most sacred place. On a second visit several people were already inside, so I headed to the Upper Galleries where I easily had 5 minutes alone among the ancient, Christian mosaics – an unforgettably spiritual experience.
Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 What fun to meet the characters mentioned in the Grand Bazaar tour!! Carpet expert Sisko Osman (p. 199) and his nephew offered me tea as I watched them display ancient Turkish palace rugs for a French couple. Without a word of English, goldsmith Ayhan Usta (p. 200) showed me his latest “burning” creation in the fire. Dr. Suleyman (p. 201) of Egin Tekstil let me write graffiti on a wood block for his new graffiti wall ( the other one was centuries old!), and I watched Europeans dealers buy his famed Turkish pestemals in bulk for their stores. I thought the Grand Bazaar would intimidate me with its aggressive shopkeepers, but I happily shopped with these folks, thrilled to get an insider-slice of their typical Turkish workdays.
Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 I’m not a big shopper at home, but it was fun riding the local bus (#559C, and others) from Taksim Square to Akmerkez Shopping Mall in the Etiler neighborhood. This high-end place—once named the world’s best shopping mall -- is great for watching locals buy clothes, books, and housewares. Head to the 4th-floor food court, where Burger King and doner kebabs sell side-by-side. A well-supplied grocery store, “Macrocenter,” sells tasty deli food for an impromptu picnic. Nisantasi is another great area for high-end shopping and people-watching.
Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 Bosphorus Cruise Tour: As the book suggests (p. 246), I got off at Sariyer to visit the Sadberk Hanim Museum, catching the #40 bus. However, the museum was just a short distance away and I felt I had wasted my bus fare. It would have been a pleasant seaside walk – not more than 10 minutes. Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 Eyup is a treasure. (p. 58) Not only did I shoot some of my best Istanbul photos at this super-sacred mosque and in the surrounding neighborhood, I was deeply moved by the intense feeling of faith of those in prayer. Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 Bosphorus cruise tour: The book (p. 235) suggests arriving at the public ferry dock 30 minutes early. If it’s a sunny day, show up even earlier. I was there 45 minutes before departure on a beautiful October morning, and it jammed up within minutes. Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 If you’re “mosqued out,” take a breather on the trendy pedestrian street, Istiklal Cadessi, stopping by Pera Museum (p. 109) off Istiklal Cad. with its first-rate collection of Oriental paintings, home-style Kutahya tiles, and old-fashioned (read Anatolian) weights and measures. When you’re done, cross the street for dramatic western views of the city – a good place to picnic on the low wall or to simply rest at sunset. Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 If you buy/bring an Istanbul map, be sure it lists updated, expanded transportation routes. The tram now crosses Galata Bridge and ends at Kabatas. Light rail now stretches to Ataturk Airport. You can reach Taksim Square via the funicular at Kabatas; the Princes’ Islands public ferry now departs from Kabatas, not Sirkeci. By the way, I paid 6 YTL for the “All of Istanbul 2007 edition” map published by Net Maps.
Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 Saray Muhallebicisi – To-die-for desserts, including that old Turkish standard, baklava. I brought home a kilo of “mixed” baklava, samples made from different nuts. Saray has several locations; I visited the one on Istiklal Cad. By the way, I like the pared-down, limited selection of restaurants for each sightseeing area. Too many guidebooks overwhelm me with too many choices, and they’re often difficult to find, anyway. Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 Take the public ferry (look for “Adalar Iskelesi”) from Kabatas to Princes’ Islands for an authentically Turkish half- or full-day getaway. Price is 2 YTL one-way for the 90-minute trip, which ends at Buyukada, the last (and best) of these treasured islands. Weekdays are less crowded. No cars are allowed, so take a horse-drawn carriage, rent a bike, or walk (I walk). Hike up the steep hill to 6th-century Aya Yorgi (St. George) Church and Monastery with its 360-degree-views and outdoor café with tasty food and wine. (I liked the lamb shish kebab and cheese borek.) Seasonal ferry schedules and fares at: http://www.ido.com.tr/en/index.cfm. (Some guidebooks list the departure ferry dock as Sirkeci, but it’s recently changed to Kabatas.) For a local perspective, view a young Turkish woman’s photos and memories of living on Buyukada as a child: http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~hulya/PicturesFromPrincessIslands.html Helen Holter in Seattle, WA USA 11/01/2007 Beware - if you are wanting a shorter cruise, be sure to go the the west side of the Galata Bridge, to the Turyol ticket booth. There are boats on the east side of the bridge that are quoting cruise rates much higher than the 6 YTL for Turyol cruises. Dale in Fairfield, Oh USA 07/17/2007 |
