Rome

Favorite discoveries or tips:

GET LOST!!! That is right, take a good map, and allow yourself to get lost. We stayed for 5 days in Rome, and allowed ourselves to wander tiny alleys and streets. We ducked into small busy cafes and osteria that were busy with locals (you can tell by the dress code) and after some refreshment we were off again, eventually finding a street sign and where we were. This was our first independent trip to Europe, and we certainly had some reservations about doing it ourselves, (we are mid-60s), but it was great! I tear pages from the Guidebook, carry it along. You cannot do that with other tour books! Saves on the weight of carrying too much each day, and when it is hot, added weight is a trial.

Joanie and George in Orlando, FL USA 07/12/2008

Please add Il Colle degli Ulivi to your 2009 Rome guide book as it will offer your readers a true Italian experience. It's a B & B outside of Rome, but it's an easy 30 minute train ride into the city. The owners enjoy giving guests a personal tour of the smaller surrounding towns and preparing homegrown meals. Their motto is "Enjoy your life."

Tuyet in Arlington, TX USA 07/12/2008

We feel as if we have truly enjoyed the best of Rome! Thank you for the walks, the information, the many "tours" to choose from and all the helpful information about times and prices, etc. We feel as if Rick was with us at every Bistro, every spectacular site! Grazie! We will ALWAYS travel with Rick Steves

Wendy A. Paterson, Ph.D. in Buffalo, NY USA 07/09/2008

While staying in Rome these past two weeks, out hotel (Hotel Cheap and Chic, was Hotel Ferraro) had "technical problems", so they moved us to a new place up by Termini. It's three blocks north of the station, called "Hotel Dama". It's only about two months old, and I can heartily recommend this place. It was neat and clean, mostly quiet (some noise from the building's central courtyard), inexpensive (100 Euros a day for a two twin beds), has wireless internet and a computer in the office for checking email and such (I hate to say it, but this is getting harder to avoid using), but most importantly, the manager rocked. My sister's luggage got lost by the airline and he personally tracked it down for her (making several phone calls, including some in the middle of the night!), saving the jet-lagged woman a lot of stress and language problems. We also had problems with our credit cards when it came time to pay the night before we left, but he was very patient with the troubles, which helped our stress level quite a lot. Totally recommend this place.

John Weiss in Boulder, CO USA 06/23/2008

Runners' tour - new offering by Context Rome. Meet guide early on Sunday morning and do a 2 hour run stopping at sites along the way. Highlight of the trip for my husband and cross-country running daughter.

Ann Blalock in Katy, TX USA 06/22/2008

In Rome, the small, comfy Welrome Hotel is walkable to/from the train station. http://www.welrome.it/ We LOVE this place! The owners are super helpful and are happy to answer everything you could possibly want to ask, make reservations for you, and more.

Betty in Asheville, NC USA 06/17/2008

Yes! If you're going to Rome, we recommend the B&B we stayed at: KIWI BED AND BREAKFAST. It's cheap, well-designed (especially the private bathroom we got to use) and the hosts were really helpful and friendly. We discovered that you don't have to pay a fortune to be close to everything downtown (it was a 15 minute walk to the historical centre - great location - close to everything).

ERIN in KAVANAGH, QC CANADA 06/17/2008

Your recommendation of the Roma Pass was a huge money saver, thanks!

Jean Hoffmann in Pleasant Prairie, WI USA 06/05/2008

Favorite place to eat in Rome for Guidebook. We went to a restaurant called Bir & Fud in Trestevere and it was FABULOUS!! Not only do they have tons of Belgian and other beers to help compensate those of us that aren't wine drinkers and need a good beer as opposed to Peroni and Moretti, almost all the food here has high quality and ingrediants. Organic chicken, the crust for the pizzas has a yeast strain going back 150 years. Ask for Alex, he is the GM. He talked to us for on and off an hour talking about his chef and where he has worked in LA and why he went back to Rome. This is a must add for your book. The address is 23 Via Benedetta in Trastevere. www.birefud.it.

Jeff Berlat in Houston, Tx USA 05/26/2008

Highly recommend Ristorante Schiavi D'Abruzzo. Open til 2:00 am. They sent a free car to our hotel in Aldobrandeschi & took us back after dinner. Food & service great and not too expensive. Tel 06.661.565.91

Steve Coney in League City, Te USA 05/24/2008

We found the recommendations about pre-booking tickets for the Vatican invaluable. Traveling with my 3 year old son, meant that we were keen to shorten any waits. We would not have been able to go with the size of the queue while we were there. However we had, on your recommendation we had pre-booked them online and this worked out very well.

Similarly the Roma Pass, saved us a huge heart-ache. So thank you for all the help and assistance :)

Triona in Cork, Co Ireland 05/18/2008

I would like to suggest adding the evidence of the melted coins in the Basilica Aemilia in the Forum. I remembered this from being there as a child and thought the book would include it, but it didn't, and I did not get to see it.

Meredith Esham in Bethesda, MD USA 04/30/2008

Might want to add the "Hotel Golden" in Rome to your list. Very clean, lots of help and very good breakfast. We got the time mixed up in the first morning and were late for breakfast, no problem they dropped what they were doing and made a breakfast for us. Very good stay. Hotel Golden, Via Marche 84, 00187 Rome Ph# 39.06.4821659 Fax# 39.06.4821660

Kelly Krug in Nanaimo, BC Canada 04/20/2008

I got the most gelato for my money (3.50 euros for a large waffle cone) at Gelateria Tartufo, located at 69/69A Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, telephone 06-6861704. Hostaria da Nerone, located at 96 Via delle Terme di Tito, telephone 06-4817952, is small and serves delicious meals. The Ristorante Pizzeria, located at 9/11 Via Flamina (just north of the Piazza del Popolo) serves the BEST pizza in Rome (try the Boscaiola pizza!) and a COLD bottle of mineral water. La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, located at 16 Via Madonna dei Monti, telephone 06-6798643, is friendly, family owned and operated, and serves delicious meals. The Antico Caffe Greco, located near the Spanish Steps at 84 Via Condotti, has been serving coffee (delicious!) since 1760.

Joseph in Harlingen, TX USA 04/18/2008

Newly opened frescoed rooms in Augustus's House are available to enter now on Palatine Hill. Only 5 people at a time are allowed to enter but when we were there in March, the line wasn't long. Follow the signs to Augustus house, then there is a first line to enter the area. 10 people are allowed in at a time here, then when you arrive at the rooms, another line forms where 5 people at a time are allowed inside the beautifully restored rooms.

Lorrie in Cincinnati, Oh USA 04/11/2008

Ditirambo Piazza della Cancelleria 74 in Campo di Fiori. 06 687 1626.

phenomenal food, good service, very pleasant/cozy dining room. About the same price as others in your guide book, but with a well-priced and huge, excellent wine list. comparable to ostaria pontesisto in price and quality, very convenient to Campo di Fiori, and much much better than Ristorante Carbonara on the campo.

Robert in Longview, wa USA 04/06/2008

I cannot believe that in the Rome 2008 there was no mention of the beautiful San Andrea della Valle. it is the second largest church in Rome after St. Peter's and is astonishing. We just happened to go inside one day on the way to the grocery store andwere completely amazed by this building. Rick, this should definitely be a major sight for Rome. Also, I believe I saw you, Rick, at the Colosseum in February. Am I right?

Nancy in Harwich, MA USA 04/06/2008

Just returned from Rome, where the best part for my family were the two guided tours we had arranged through Through Eternity Tours. Thomas from Through Eternity took us on the Rome At Night By Car Tour on our first day in Rome in March, 2008. Thomas was so knowledgeable, and interesting and gave us insight into all the historic sights we saw in Rome -- from the Forum to Trastevere and all Seven Hills, and the very nicest places to see Rome by night!! Thomas is a total gentleman, and he is a history genius … smart and funny and answers any questions. By the end of our first day in Rome, we had seen most of the historic sights, (driven in a beautiful Mercedes van), got out, toured around, saw the fountains, spanish steps -- you name. Then, we spent the rest of the week going to our favorites for a closer inspection. The next day, Gracelyn from Through Eternity took us on a tour of St. Peter's, Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. We looked around and she pointed out all the details, history and stories of how it all came to be. She was wonderful .... this is a site I would never have wanted to see on my own. Through Eternity managed my family's need (at the last minute) to walk slowly through St. Peter's Basilica due to my Mother's weak health, and then talked the guards at the Vatican Museum into loaning us a wheelchair to accommodate Mom's lifelong desire to see the Vatican despite her inability to stand in line for hours!! Gracelyn told us stories about the Saints and history of the Vatican that were so compelling, I think about certain scenes and Gracelyn's insightful information almost every day. Thomas and Gracelyn made our trip a dream trip!! This was the best thing we did to make our trip to Rome complete -- we were at home in Rome after their very wonderful tours. So easy , just Google them and reserve!!

Peggy in Washington, DC USA 04/04/2008

Stephanie Milburn sjalbertson@yahoo.com Broken Arrow, Oklahoma, USA

Stephanie Milburn in Broken Arrow, OK USA 03/23/2008

Guest House Arco dei Tolomei Via dell’Arco dè Tolomei 27 - 00153 Roma Tel. 06 58 320 819 - www.inrome.info - www.guesthousearcodeitolomei.com

Ponce de Leon in Paris, France 03/05/2008

There is now a little train that leaves from in front of the Borghese Gallery and goes around the gardens. Very restful, cheap and different.

April Smith in Stonington, CT USA 02/24/2008

Yesterday, we decided to eat lunch at one of my favorite places in Rome for lunch, Enoteca Corsi. My friend Antonio, who lives here in Rome, had introduced me to this place a few years ago, and usually it's 90 percent locals eating there. It's also listed on the Italian website "Slowfood" which specializes in finding restaurants where the food is an art. So I felt it was not exactly a secret place, but still, not a touristy place, and I like bringing people here as one of my "finds." Yesterday, we were seated next to a table of four people. I could hear American accents...a middle aged couple sitting on my side, so I couldn't really see them, and a younger American couple seated on my partner's side. The young man of the younger couple was speaking good Italian to the owner who was helping with serving. My partner noticed that the older couple was carrying a guidebook so he said to me, sotto voce, "this place must be getting known in the guidebooks because I see them carrying one." "Oh? Which guide book are they carrying?" He glanced over, and after a few seconds said: "Rick Steves Italy." Rats, I thought Now EVERYBODY will know about this place. I took a quick glance over. I almost fell out of my chair.

It WAS RICK STEVES and his wife! He was carrying his own guidebook! Later, we ran into them later at my favorite coffee bar, Tazza D'oro. Damn!

So Rick is out there now, checking out the 2008 book for your 2009 edition! p.s. He's a lot taller than I thought!

Cristina in Pitttsburgh, PA USA 02/19/2008

RICK STEVES PERFORMS MIRACLE AT VATICAN! The Sistine Chapel was full of people. After soaking in the fine art, we prepared to exit. Grasping the Rick Steves' Rome book like a golden ticket, I led the family past the sign that read "tour groups only" and through the open door to freedom. As we descended the long, silent stairs, the security guard in his little shack looked at us, I was nervous: would he kick us out? Ask for our special tour guide pass? No. The guard smiled then began reading his newspaper as the American family walked by: husband, wife, and four cute kids--nearly a tour group but not quite. Because of this secret shortcut we were able to enjoy the spectacle of St Peters, and when we left at noon, the line for St Peters was wrapped completely around the square. We were absolutely grateful for this tip. Because of the shortcut all of us, even the kids (ages 10, 9, 5, & 4) were happy and relaxed; PLUS we had time to see some other things on our list that day. It was a miracle! Thank you Rick Steves!

Keri Wellman in Oberickelsheim, Germany 02/18/2008

The metro closing is somwhat erratic, closed at 10:30pm one night.

Liz Phelps in Pittsburg, CA USA 02/18/2008

Don't pay the inflated Piazza Navona prices for a meal! Exit the Piazza west (by Restaurant Tre Scalini)and look for Navonna Notte, on a corner by via del Teatro Pace; great pizzas/atmosphere/service; popular with locals - prices very fair - Feb 08 a meal for four with starters/main/desserts/ plenty of wine and beer was just under €20 per head!

Graham Quinlivan in Hagley, UK 02/15/2008

Case Romane Del Celio museum on Clivo di Scauro underneath church of Ss.Giovanni and Paolo. It cost 6 euroand is down the block from the Arch of Constatine. Easy walk.

Rocco Curro in Newark, DE USA 02/14/2008

The guide I had from Rome Walks was excellent, and I learned so much more from him than I would have using the self-guided walks in Rick's book (Twilight Walk from Campo di Fiori to the Spanish steps and the Jewish Ghetto & Trastevere)

Brian Gulledge in Woodbridge, VA USA 02/11/2008

Rome - tour guides

Mireet Wolf in Raanana, Israel 01/23/2008

Florence should definitely be included for a day trip. 1.5hrs. on Eurostar train. George Byrons restaurant on Via Nationale near Piazza della Repubblica-fun place to have cocktails and great pasta for a very reasonable price.

Soo Jung Lee in Decatur, GA USA 01/19/2008

We found service to be very uneven in Rome, and generally in all of Italy. However, we found that a smile and some patience goes a long way in dealing with the crankiest of service people. We found only a few occasions where we thought the waiter, staff or salesperson was a lost cause.

Chris in Darnestown, MD USA 12/16/2007

Micaela Pavoncello's walking tours of Jewish Rome. Very informative and really interesting. You will enjoy yourself and learn alot.

Deborah in Merion Station, PA USA 12/09/2007

I often travel at the end of December and really need to know what is open or closed on Dec. 25th. I am reading the Rome guidebook and not finding that information. Other than that, I love the guidebook!

Kim in Omaha, NE USA 12/09/2007

Ristorante Lingua Lunga was fantastic--we ate there three nights in a row after a number of disappointing experiences. (I live in Sicily, so I'm not about to have bad food or service!) It's about four blocks from the corner of the Vatican by the museum. Address is Piazza Dell 'Unita 25/27 (Via dei Gracchi) 00192 Roma Tel. 06.32.60.0166

Maryellen Pienta in Catania, Italy 11/16/2007

I ordered airport pickup by private car and driver through the pensione I stayed in while in Rome ( through their website before, and at the pensione on leaving). The savings were dramatic, compared with hiring this service on the internet sites. I paid 45 euros each way, with one driver coming at 6 AM at no extra charge. What is not really explained is the long distances and many escalators to manage at the airport and the Central Station in Rome. Its okay if you are 20 and in shape, but for over 70's crowd it would be a major stretch. For what it is worth, the food in Rome was mediocre and overpriced. I ate at two of Steve's recommendations, and felt both were only adequate. The best food in Rome is in the deli's and pizza joints. The maps are only passable, and not worthy of the rest of the material, which is excellent. I noticed several older man wore their money and cards inside their shirts, as I did. I will never travel any other way again. Lots of roving hands in Rome.

John K Adams in Hopkins, , SC USA 11/15/2007

Would like to second Mrs. Goodwin's comments about the LaPlata B&B on Piazza Viminale. Had a very nice stay there in Oct. 2007. Great rate (single for 80 euros), very clean, comfortable room, the largest and nicest bathroom I had during my two weeks in Italy. Thought staying near Termini was very convenient and much quiet than the centro storico. The walk is downhill to get to the Pantheon/Piazza Navonna area, for the return "uphill" part of the trip I just caught one of the many busses whose route is Via Nazionale - including the notorious 40/64 bus, which I took without incident. I think the B&B is an apartment building going condo and the owner's unit is next door, but it has 24 hr. access (after hours just ring the bell and they buzz you in). Nice touches include maps, lots of guide books to borrow (including Rick Steves'), even umbrellas to use for the day if you forget to pack one. Enjoyed the owner's friendly dog, too. The only negative is that while rooms are non-smoking, the owner smokes at the front desk and at times the smell carried. But for a bargain B&B in a good location with a friendly owner that was clean and had some charm, it's a minor complaint.

Tom Robertson in Indianapolis, IN USA 11/15/2007

1) Some of the galleries covered by the Roma Pass that Rick didn't mention: the Palazzo Berberini gallery, the Gallery of Modern Art; I tried to visit the Gallery of Late Medieval Art in EUR too, but the hours were short on the day that I went. The first two are worth a visit, probably more than the Pamphilj gallery (the greatest hits are always on loan, it seems; and the self-congratulatory tone of its audio guide is a bit much)

2) Any non-baroque or non-baroquicized church that you can find! Which is always a feat. I came across San Lorenzo Fuori Le Mura by chance, and it was a stunning find. Romanic and medieval, with a rough and neglected feel yet perfectly functional, the church has unbeatable charm in a city full of baroque excess.

3) I had it on my list to visit at least one 'centro sociale', a specific Italian social experiment in cooperation, neglected property takeovers and artistic production all in one. A number of them are outsite of the tourist core, but one -- Rialto -- is pretty central (closest subway stop is Colosseo). However, I could not find the San Ambrogio street on either of my three maps of Rome (don't get me started on maps) so I'm leaving centri sociali for my next trip.

Lydia Perovic in Toronto, ON Canada 10/31/2007

The tip about faxing the Vatican to reserve a tour was well worth the time we saved by not standing in the long lines. Cost was 23.5 euros for adults and 18.5 euros for children (ages 9 and 11).

Michael Sherwood in Prescott Valley, AZ USA 10/29/2007

It would be nice to add apartments to the selection of hotels. We found a very nice one near Piazza Navona.

Mary Passeri in Oakland, CA USA 10/24/2007

Hotel Margaret in Roma on Via A. Salandra. We stayed there in a quad room. The room wasn't fancy or anything but the staff was friendly and Pippo recommended some great ristorante and gelateria. ALl staff were willing to help out with information, calling taxis, etc. It's conviently located about 10 min from Termini and includes breakfast. There is an elevator if you don't want to walk the 5 flights of stairs. Our room was on the main street and was understandably noisy. Oh, and if you speak some Italian, Pippo won't every forget you!

Stephanie in Aviano, Italy 10/20/2007

Our favorite: the wonderful walk down Gianicolo Passagietto to the Vatican. This is a lovely walk through the Pines of Rome, with glorious hilltop views of the Roman skyline and an escape from the frantic pace of the City. AND, there is a nice little outdoor cafe for a beer on a hot day. This is the kind of unforgettable experience that can get overlooked in an effort to see the antiquities and museums.

Jim & Megan Taylor in Seattle, WA USA 10/09/2007

Rome "New" Accomodation - La Plata B&B at Piazza del Viminale,5 on 4th floor. (Note Not VIA Viminale, but PIAZZA). Elevator. Newly decorated room/bathroom. Breakfast served in room - fresh pastries, etc, quite adequate. Nice, quiet retreat from Rome's busy-ness. Very secure, convenient location, non-smoking room, reasonable price -- 130E in September(high season) for dbl. AC available for 5E more. Walking distance to Via Nazionale - shopping, buses, and to Republicca Metro stop as well as train station. Next to Interior Ministry and Security building (police?). We would definitely stay here again. Note also that the owner speaks Italian, some English and fluent Spanish. I believe there are only about 4 rooms so book ahead. www.laplatabb.com My husband and I would definitely stay here again. I hope Rick Steves checks out this "new" backdoor.

Mrs Dave Goodwin in Glen Allen, VA USA 10/02/2007

We recently spent 5 days in Rome. The excavation tour under the Vatican is a must, but you do have to apply before you leave. Another restaurant near the Best Western Springhouse should be listed. It is Picere Molise on the Via Candia. It is about 21/2 blocks from the hotel and wonderful food and service. Everyone seemed to have a Rick Steve's book in their hand, it really was very helpful. The suggestion for using the money belts was very true, didn't worry at all about our passports, credit cards and extra money. Thank you very much!!

Patricia Vicenzi in Iron Mountain, Mi USA 09/22/2007

We stayed at Hotel Nerva, and the hotel was fine. However, transportation to FCO was not. We arranged a taxi through Alberto for transport to the airport. He assured us of the 40-Euro flat fee for the two of us. However, the "taxi" that came charged us 50 Euros, stating that this was a limousine, not a taxi. Also, the driver drove recklessly, even for Rome, exceeding 180 km/hr at times. Also, the staff at the hotel kept nagging us to pay cash at checkout, because we had been given such a good rate, even going so far as to show us the tabs for other guests staying at the hotel at the same time! We had planned to pay cash all along, but these assurances did not stop the nagging.

Dana Kelly in Tumwater, WA USA 09/16/2007

Guest House Arco dei Tolomei, Via dell’Arco dè Tolomei 27, tel. 06 58 320 819. The staff at this B&B was so, so helpful, nice and pleasant. Catia helped us plan tours and outings, and Lena helped us get checked in with no issues. The breakfast was a wonderful spread, including daily freshly baked cake!

Allison Hardin in Atlanta, GA USA 09/13/2007

An amazing church we found just around the corner from the Teatro Di Marcello called St. Maria Campitelli. If you go up Teatro and make a left at the Antico Cafe (onto Montanara) there it is - BEAUTIFUL, and worth a look see! But, I just want to take this opportunity to THANK YOU. Not only are your books helpful, they're wonderfully written. We have travelled to Paris, Amsterdam, London, and now Rome "with" you, and we appreciate all the info and tips. Keep them coming!!!

julie pasqual in Jersey City, NJ USA 09/09/2007

Remind families travelling with kids to ask if there are discount entry fees for children. Our kids were 15 and 13 and got reduced rates at both the Catacombs of Priscilla and the Vatican Museum guided tours.

JoAnne Sulak in Leesburg, VA USA 08/16/2007

We stayed at Ostia Antica our last night before flying from the Fiumicino Rome airport home. We stayed at Rodrigo de Vivar (www.rodrigodevivar.com) and really had a very intimate, special visit there. The ruins are a very short walk from this Castle and it's a great ending to a great visit in Italy. I wish we had more than one night because this place is on 400 acres and has plenty of interesting things to do and explore. The meal prepared at their "country" place was fabulous and very authentic and personal. The kitchen even gave us a homemade jar of plum jam to take home with us!

Amy Scherer in Menlo Park, CA USA 08/13/2007

we went during the settimana della cultura, or week of culture. i hadn't known what week this was before i booked my trip, but I lucked out. we saw the collisuem for free. also, the borghese gallery, accademia, uffizi, bargello, medici chapels just cost the reservation fee, 3 euros. i think i found out about it online and not in rick's books. maybe the dates come out after press time, but it would be helpful information.

paige woodman in los altos, ca USA 08/11/2007

I am recommending Mirage Ristorante Pizzeria in Fiumicino, ocean view on Lungomare della Salute.

P.Whisenhunt in Carlsbad, CA USA 08/10/2007

The Roma Pass was well worth the money and time it saved waiting in line. We purchased it at the TI near the train station and used it that evening at the Borghese Gallery. The next day we used it at Palatine Hill where there was barely a line and then went over to the Coloseum where we were able to use the line with the groups and after waiting shortly to get through security, we were in.

Devin in Olympia, WA USA 08/08/2007

We did the night walk through Rome and it was great. We ended up by the Spanish Steps around 2230 and were going to take the subway back to our hotel. Rick's book said the subway closes at 2330.....they closed at 2100. Found out they started this a few months early. They are putting in a new subway line in addition to the A and B line. We hope this information will help. We did manage to get back to our hotel..with a crash course on the Rome bus system.

Timothy R Sullivan in Clovis, Ca USA 08/04/2007

Jewish Ghetto Tour--Micaela Pavoncello

Anna in NY, NY USA 07/30/2007

We used your Rome book constantly for our days in Rome and we found it indispensable. We used your tour of the Vatican Museums and were able to focus on the highlights of each section. Your tip for exiting the Sistine Chapel to get back to St. Peter's was right on. We followed the book exactly for our tour of the Borghese Gallery and it got us through in a timely manner and we know we saw what was most important. We also used Micaela Pavoncella's Jewish Ghetto Tour. That was such a learning experience for us. I was so glad I had so thoroughly read the book. It made our time in Rome so much more enjoyable, since we had a plan for tackling this incredible city. Thanks!

Pamela Braun in Columbus Junction, IA USA 07/30/2007

(1)Hotel Oceania in Rome was great! the location was excellent-- truly a 10 minute walk (everything is a "ten minute walk" from Termini Train Station to the hotel. Roberto, the reservation asst. gave helpful hints of restaurants and info for getting around. The bus and metro was so easy. (2) we enjoyed the Green Line Tour for 20 euro because it was not super crowded and air conditioned with headphones in all languages. You can get on and off the bus for 25 hrs so if you go one day you can actually use the ticket for the next day to see more sights.

Jan Nugent in Pennington, NJ USA 07/28/2007

I tested the Italian and Vatican postal systems--this time the postcard mailed from the Italian post office arrived first (3 days after being mailed).

Scam alert? --walking from the Vatican to Trastevere (far from traditional tourist areas), I was approached on the street by a man driving a car, and was offered fashion "samples," and then subsequently asked for gas money. Managed to get a ladies' leather jacket out of it, but I was left 40 euros poorer.

The directions I actually found to be quite clear. I would recommend picking up a detailed map of the city center--the English language one sponsored by Time Elevator (and given out by the Hotel Aberdeen) was quite detailed enough.

Brian in Cleveland, OH USA 07/26/2007

Very interesting for my family was the tour of the Catacombs of San Sebastian on the Appian Way. Also, we did the Scavi Excavations Tour underneath St. Peters. It was excellent and very interesting.

Jim Naylor in Everett, WA USA 07/23/2007

Hotel Versailles, Corso D'Italia 92. Near Piazza Fiume, NE Rome. Depending on season runs 35 to 80 euros a night for Double with bath. Run by the very helpful brothers Georgio and Roberto, Both speak english fairly well. On Line reservationms can be made through Venere.com. Or directly at info@hotel-versailles-roma.com. Take your showers early for hot water. Oddly, its a little "off the map" even though you are very much close to everything and its a short walk to the Castro Pretorio Metro. The local laundry mat was closed in late June 2007. This was the only difficulty.

Francis Saffell in Springfield, OR USA 07/22/2007

1. We used Ezio Montit for a day to drive us to Magliano Sabina. He took it upon himself to help us track down my 96 yr old father's birth records and helped interepret. Couldn't have done it without him. Cudos! 2. Didn't have any problems with pickpockets. The biggest thieves are the cab drivers. Fixed rate from inside the wall, to or from airport is 40 Euro. They all overcharge for it if traveller doesn't know. 3. Best restaurant: Target on Via Torino, one block off via Nazional and one block over from Hotel Aberdeen

Mike Pagani in Los Angeles, CA USA 07/18/2007

Rick: The guidebook for Rome needs to emphasize a couple of points.

First, don't plan on walking or riding a bike on the Appian Way except on Sundays when it is closed to traffic. With the bumper to bumper traffic, the walls on either side and the absence of sidewalks, walking the Appian Way is not only very unpleasant but taking your life in your hands. (We took a cab out to the catacombs at San Sebastiano and were very glad we weren't trying to 'stroll'.) The guidebook does say it's closed to traffic on Sunday, but doesn't say that trying to walk on any other day is a really bad idea.

Second, the guidebook needs to stress the necessity of being with a guided tour to the Vatican Museum in order to avoid the horrendous lines, which were worse than for any other major site in Italy. With our escorted tour, we were in the separate line for tours and went right in. Independent travelers faced five hour waits! The line on a Saturday morning at 7am. was already very long and the museum didn't open until 10am. The book also needs to point out that there is often a line to get into St. Peter's basilica due to the need to go through security. The line on the day we were there was all the way down to the end of the piazza and our guide said that some days it winds several times around the piazza. Our guided tour got to leave the Sistine Chapel by the door for guided tours, enter St. Peter's without going through security (again) and get right in.

kath in los angeles, ca USA 07/16/2007

Recommend adding Orvieto and assisi to the day trips. they are both readily accessible from Rome by tour bus or train and a great day trip to take a break fromm the crowds specially during the summer high season.

Marsh Mendez in Fremont, CA USA 07/12/2007

Recommend including information on how to visit the Acqueducts located in the south side of Rome. We spent the better part of a morning trying to find the correct entry to them based on the maps and information provided by Parco Regionale Dell'Appia Antica. Once we "cracked the code" we found this to be an easily accessible and wonderful area with nice history, good jogging trails, and some places to relax away from the noise. It is an easy trip via the Subaugusta metro stop. However, we at first tried to enter the park from the Porta Furba metro stop (where the Punto Informativo station is located - only open on Sunday though) and found this confusing (ran into private property-no entry signs) and a little uncertain in terms of safety of the area.

Kevin Masters in Syracuse, NY USA 07/06/2007

I was looking for a self service laundry, i founded it near spanish steps, you have to added it at your guidebook, there is also free internet!!! you can find it in via degli Avignonesi 17 Rome. tel.00390642014222

Vanessa in Madrid, Es Espana 07/05/2007

Last night i've been to the Old Bell pub restaurant and it was everything so good, real italian food,good service and most important,good price!!!At the end of our dinner they offer to us a free shot. Wow!!!So i want recommend this place to everyone and it's open until 5a.m.! It's near trevi fountain: Via del Boccaccio 24 Rome . Tel 00390697602650

Vanessa in Madrid, Es Espana 07/05/2007

Excellent companions to Rick's guide to Rome were Armando and Milena of the Hotel Select, via Vittorio Bachelet 6. We were given excellent sight-seeing and transportation advice. In addtion, manager Armando made telephone calls on our behalf to track down baggage sent elsewhere by our airline. He even arranged housing for us in a sold-out Florence, when we decided to visit that city at the last minute. The accommodations were just as top-drawer: Milena oversaw an excellent breakfast in a delightful walled and wooded courtyard each day, as well as the cleaning of the rooms. Ours was quiet, clean and, with the screen door safely open to the courtyard each night, washed with a cool, lemon- and jasmine-scented breeze. You'll want to add this discovery, a source of aid and refuge for our first visit to the Eternal City, to your book.

David and Lucinda Over in Pasadena, CA USA 06/23/2007

Yes, I took a cruise and wish that Rick had directions from the port to the train station. It would have been very helpful for those of us who eschew the conventional cruise tours.

Other than that, I just want to say thank you. The guide books were a life saver. On the cruise, we went to Venice, FLorence,Dubrovnik, Messina,Barecelona and I don't remember the rest. While I enjoy cruising, I wanted to "do it on my own" and the books were a god send. My companion is Italian, and spoke fluent Italian, but knew nothing about the sites. Thanks a bunch for the assist in enjoying the vacation.

Janice Palmer in Phoenix, AZ USA 06/20/2007

Jewish Roma Walking Tours -- Jewish Roma Walking Tours [jewishroma@gmail.com]

David in Atlanta, GA USA 06/14/2007

The little gift shop run by the nuns on the roof top of St. Peters. It was a real find. We noticed it on our way up climbing the dome for a late-day photo op. We visited on the way down, picked up some jewelry pieces that someone in our group made into personalized rosaries for our girls. Very special. However, if you're going up late for the sunset photos, stop in on your way up - not down. Those ladies close on time, before you have to leave the dome, and several from our group were not let inside the shop.

Lewis Family in Federal Way, WA USA 05/25/2007

Gelateria Millenium, right next to the Pantheon. The service was unbeatable. We got tastes of as many flavours as we wanted, the selection was impressive, and prices were cheap. Plus the view is great!

Megan Stoner in Jackson, MS USA 05/25/2007

I had a chance to take three tours of the Jewish Ghetto. I learn more when I have the chance to compare. Tours included Michaela Pavoncello, a Viator tour of the Ghetto and Trastevere, and a CD prerecorded tour "Walk and Talk Rome." By far, the best tour, and one of the highlights of my trip was the tour provided by Michaela Pavoncello. The basic facts were similar in all three tours. But, Ms. Pavoncello embodies the spirit and history of the Jewish community. She doesn't just tell the story of the ghetto, she tells her family history going back to the first Jews in Rome, back over 2000 years. She places the period of the ghetto in perspective to the Jews full involvement in the life of Rome. Her knowledge, spirit, and passion is unforgettable. The other tours provide an understanding but can't compare to Ms. Pavoncello. There is one concern I should mention: cost. The viator tour is 25 Euro. The CDs cost $16 on Amazon. But Ms Pavoncello lists some dramtically high fees for her tours. Initially, she asked me to pay 100 Euros to join a tour with three other people. Through a series of E-mails, I let her know that her price was unafforable for me. She may think all us Americans are rich. But, in my case, she agreed to reduce the price to a level that fit my budget. She says that she will negotiate prices for groups of people, but not for private tours. I'm guessing she will reach agreement with anyone who requests a reasonable price. So, don't be disuaded by the initial suggested price. The negotiations are well worth the effort.

Stuart NY USA 05/19/2007

Wi-fi in Borghese park. Since our hotel did not provide internet, we could have come here to use the public internet.

Hieronymous Bosch in Correr Museum in Venice in room 36

2000 year old Barbie dolls in the basement of the National Museum

James Tierney in kirkland , WA USA 05/19/2007

Jewish Synagogue and ghetto tour with Micaela Pavoncello. She is thoroughly charming. Her knowledge and love of the area were unsurpassable. We could not have done this tour on our own. It is well worth the cost. Everyone in the ghetto knows her and obviously loves her.

Judy Baker in Jenkintown, PA USA 05/09/2007

Tip: Please clarify where you can find the YELLOW Validation box at Termini Metro! We had fun searching however, it took us a long time to find the box since there is yellow trim where you purchase your ticket.

J P Pardini in Philadelphia, PA USA 05/04/2007

The 110 hop on hop off bus has a 2 day ticket for 20 euros. Even though we walked our legs off thhroughout Rome, it was handy to hop on the bus and use it like a taxi to start the day or when we got tired.

Mark E. Lamb in Melbourne, Fl USA 04/26/2007

Our favorite restaurant of all during our 10 days in Italy was the Taverna Pretoriana at Via Palestrano, 46-48 00185 Roma. Tel 06 4450273. The food was delicous, plentiful and inexpensive. The service was friendly and attentive. There were many locals eating there along with the tourists. Everyone was treated well.

Terese in Eden Prairie, MN USA 04/08/2007

I had been searching for the Italian ice cream I had remembered as a child in Scotland. As I recall, all of the ice cream stores seemed to be run by Italians. We emigrated to the US in 1957, but the last time I rememeber "the right taste" was 43 years ago on a return vacation, and despite having been back to Britain numerous times since, and sampled a lot(!) of ice cream, nothing was "the right taste". We have just returned from two weeks in Italy (Venezia, Firenze , & Roma)and armed with all three of your guidebooks, I was on a quest for "the taste". I found it!! In Rome, you recommended Cremeria Monteforte by the Pantheon for gelato, and in one of the bins marked "Fior de latte" I found it. I knew it was white, but I had only ever seen Lemon in all the displays I looked at in any other shops. The Cream was always yellow & tasted OK, but it wasn't "it". When I saw the white "fior de latte", I immediately ordered a cone and knew with one taste, this was "it". I told my story to the lovely lady at the register, said "mille grazie" & wandered off in great satisfaction. Straight old milk & sugar, that was it. Now I have a name. Thanks very much.

George Easton in Westlake, OH USA 04/04/2007

Fodors had recommended Trattoria Dai Tre Amici al Pantheon on Via Della Rotonda - tried it and would add it to your list - Rainy night in Feb. we were only customers - Owner and son wonderful! Good food - homey decor - good price, free limoncello.

Gary Carson in Aransas Pass, tx USA 03/24/2007

I foiled a pickpocket attempt on the #64 bus thanks to the warning in the guide. May I recommend you tell people that it is possible to order a half portion of pasta (but not for half price)?

Stirling Haig in Chapel Hill, NC USA 02/20/2007

Vatican tour with Brenda Bohen from Jewishroma.com. We have visited the Vatican twice before - once with a guide and once using the "audio" tour. The tour witn Brenda was marvelous for many reasons, including; Seeing the Vatican from a Jewish perspective. Access to areas not usually available to the public. Having a charming, enthusiastic, knowledgeable guide who is on fist name (and in some cases kissing) terms with the Vatican staff.

David Borkin England 02/17/2007

We ate at two fabulous restaurants:

Antica Taverna Via Monte Giordano, 12 Tel 06 688 010 53

Le Lanterne Via dela Pilotta, 21a Tel 06 699 244 58

Dan & Aggie Mannix in Waterloo, Belgium (formerly of Pennington, NJ) 02/17/2007

Jewish Rome tour with Micaela Pavoncello (www.jewishroma.com) Feb 2007. An excellent tour! Tremendous insight into the community and larger context. Micaela is a dynamic, fast-paced guide---meaning she hasn't been to professional guide school for boring recitation training. She is fluent in multiple languages, including English and a variant of Italkian. For anybody who does crossword puzzles in pen and likes to play "stump-the-guide", you will meet your match and likely lose.

David Greenberg in Fogelsville, PA USA 02/13/2007

Rick, just back from Rome where a "Roman soldier" at the Coliseum saw your Guidebook in my hand, and after a few unkind words for you, he turned immediately to the page and quoted you verbatim about the "photo soldiers" being a rip off. "Alberto" was a hoot and I promised him I would write to you in his (and his legions') defense! He even gave us a free photo pose. His "Rick response" was our day's highlight. Many laughs!! Go easy on the centurions!

Cindy in Beavercreek, OH USA 02/01/2007

Tip - don't talk to well dressed men in cars who ask for directions - ours gave a line of looking for the French Embassy, asked for 15 euros to buy some gas and ended up grabbing 75.

Penny Russell in Rochester, NY USA 01/31/2007

Micaela Pavoncello's guide of the Jewish Ghetto was by far my best experience in Rome this January! She's delightful and knowledgeable. I only wish I had more time there to book other tours with her too.

Rochelle Katz in New York, NY USA 01/23/2007

Felice restaurant in Testaccio. Via Mastro Giorgio 29, 06 574 6800. One of the oldest establishments in Testaccio with most of the lunch tables seemingly on "perpetual reserve;" the staff usually confirms orders rather than taking them ("the usual?"). Even first timers get unasked for suggestions--and I'd advise taking them. Wonderful food drawing on the fresh items from the best market in the city.

James in Biddle, OH USA 01/12/2007

We discovered two very nice restaurants while staying at the Spring House Hotel near the Vatican. At the Piacere Molise (Via Candia 60), no English is spoken but the menu has English phrases for most entries. We found Il Ciociaro (Via Barletta 21) to be an exceptional value and English is sppoken with great gusto. Avoid the "hot sauce" at the latter as it is like swallowing flame!!

Bill Zell in Southport, NC USA 12/20/2006

We visited Rome for a week in mid-Nov. We relied on the Rick Steves Rome book every day. I asked friends at home and people we met in Rome where we should go on a day trip. All told us to see Florence first. We found that we could get an express train, the EuroStar, from the Termini and arrive in Florence in 1-1/2 hours. That made a day trip to Florence very doable. We used our Rick Steves Florence book and saw the Duomo, the Academia and the Uffizzi, and enjoyed a great lunch and dinner in Florence. We were back in Rome by 10:30pm. Unfortunately for us, that was the one day all week that it rained. Florence was still beautiful. Daytrip? Florence!

M. E. Sofield in Belle Mead, NJ USA 12/18/2006

We spent four days in Rome in early December and it was wonderful, but very crowded! We spoke to one tourist from Spain, and apparently many Spaniards come to Rome the week of Immaculate Conception (Dec 8) which is a national holiday. We didn't know this, and stood in line for two hours for the Vatican Museum- the line stretched nearly to St. Peter's Square at 9 am.

Once inside, it was a crowded push to the Sistine Chapel- sort of like exiting Yankee Stadium after a baseball game- big crowds cramming into one small hallway to exit. The tip about using the tourist exit from the Sistine was good, because this avoided a long walk and also another long line for St. Peter's.

We used your tip and got free tickets at Santa Susanana for the papal audience. The audience was inside the arena, and it is a good idea to sit near the center aisle so you can see the Pope when he comes in. If not you have to wait until he reaches the stage to see him. Also, there was confusion in the crowd, because at the beginning of the audience, Benedict was shown on a video screen blessing a large crowd inside St. Peter's church. This led many audience members in the hall to panic and think that Benedict was not coming into the hall, and everyone there would have to watch on video. But ten minutes later, he did come into the hall for an appearance that lasted one hour.

Just about every church in Rome was packed with tour groups, most notably the two churches with the Michelangelo statues: St Peter in Chains and Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. The Colosseum and Forum were also packed-- the Roma pass allowed us to skip the line at the Colosseum.

Rick's recommended hotel the Aberdeen was excellent! the staff was great and gave a special rate for Rick's book. Free internet and breakfast. It was noisy during the rush hour, but quiet at night.

Check the restaurants to see if service and cover charges are included.

Excellent gelato place near the Trevi Fountain, called Blue Ice.

Thanks Rick for helping us to a wonderful Roman Holiday!

Charles and Maria Sleefe in Lynbrook, NY USA 12/12/2006

The Yellow Hostel near Termini station should be added as a good hostel option. It was only 23 Euro per night, clean, and young/fun.

Ryan Ellis in Washington, DC USA 12/08/2006

Vatican tour with Roman Odyssey Tours We were in Rome during Thanksgiving weekend and very pleased with the tour offered by Roman Odyssey Tours. Our guide Susan is an American and she is fairly amicable and has abundant knowledge of Roman history. She was able to help us identify the cream of the crop through the tour of the St. Peter's Basilica and Vatican museum and make our trip a pleasant and rewarding experience. The tour office is also very repsonsive and courteous when you contact them.

Joseph in Palo Alto, CA USA 12/04/2006

1. Even in winter (we were there Nov 19-25), Rome is packed. The line for Vatican muesum was about 45 minutes long, and there were times when you could not approach Fontana di Trevi. 2. People smoke in the streets. Lots of people, and all the time. And the streets are rather narrow.

John Petrovic in Portage, MI USA 12/01/2006

Use a calendar page and what town you'll be in each day. Put hotel name and phone number on calendar.

Sue Hall in Wilson, WY USA 11/29/2006

It seems that for the Vatican Museum it depends when you go. In early November 06 when we went, the queue at 8.30 am was already 400 metres long (at 9 am it was about 500 metres) and moving at about 100 metres in 20 minutes, so we got in at 11 am. In some areas inside the crowd was like rush hour at a city train station. But of course it is still worth the wait. We found Asso Taxis to be very good, ph +39 339 3333 414, www.assotaxi.it

Joe Goozeff in Sydney, NS Australia 11/21/2006

If you are staying at Hotel Smeraldo area, don't miss the FREE 15:30 tour of Laro Argentina. This is the cat place where Ceasar was killed. We learned more about the history of Rome than anywhere else.

Jim Punches in Aptos, CA USA 11/20/2006

We thought the Baths of Caracala were much more interesting and worth our time and money than the Baths of Diocletian. Definitely include Caracala as a "try to not miss" inclusion. 2) The "Night Walk Across Rome" was somewhat underwhelming, even though the early November nights were very mild, even warm this year. Even so, it would have been better had it ended in Campo de Fiori as the wine and dine options are better and less costly there than Spanish Steps. Also, Line A Metro closes at 9pm now (due to night repairs) and we could not use it to get back to our accommodations after completing the walk and having dinner at the Spanish Steps destination. 3) Need better info on how to get BACK to Rome from Hadrian's Villa. Need to take the 4 or 4x bus from Villa Adriana TOWARDS Tivoli, then get off of it at the main road and transfer to the Cotral bus to Rome....and if you don't catch the 4:30pm Cotral bus the next one won't be along until 6:30pm. We just barely lucked out and caught the 4:30pm Cotral with 5 minutes to spare.

Glenn Stokes in San Diego, CA USA 11/14/2006

Casual Eating: Cafe Tolentino on Tolentino street about a block North from Hotel Aberdeen. Good food, cafeteria style, reasonable prices and you get to sit down for free. Run by the Samarco Family. This cafe just opened the day we found it. It became our favorite place to eat during our stay.

Ted Moore in Tigard, OR USA 11/14/2006

Da Baffetto (Via delGoverno Vecchio) Pizzerie - locals line up for the thin crusted pizza and antipasti bar. Great food and the line goes fast. Coin operated laundry at Via Della Chiesa Nuova of Vitorio Emanuel - 7Euro for wash and dry and 1Euro for soap. With a first class Trenitalia pass you still need to make reservations as soon as possible. We made our first 2 days in advance and first class was already sold out so we were put in second class.

Bourne & Carol Rigano in Stillwater, NY USA 10/24/2006

We took the Jewish Italy Tour found in your website. Micaela Pavoncello was charming,and very knowledgeable of the area. We were only in Rome for 5 hours, but found her tour the highlight of our trip to Italy.

Shirley in Walnut Creek, CA USA 10/09/2006

Thank you Rick Steves and I said that often throughout our trip. Our wonderful trip to Rome was made possible due to your invaluable tips. Carried your book with me at all times. Crucial advice on purchasing tickets at Palantine Hill to avoid the Colosseum line. Wonderful views of the city/Forum from the Farnese gardens there can't be emphasized enough. Also went to the Vatican museum on Tuesday at 13:00 as you recommended and walked right in, no line! (The WC locations at the major sites were helpful too!) I became the tour guide with your often humorous highlites of what we were seeing. Also enjoyed the shortcut from the Vatican museum to St. Peters. Thanks again for being our ambassador to the world.

Judith Pohutsky in Sacramento, CA USA 10/09/2006

Best Gelato we had in Rome was in a plce called "Take it Easy Ice Cream"! It's near Piazza Navona: V. Tor Milliana 22/A

Shahab Layeghi in Redwood City, CA USA 10/04/2006

Dear Rick, I was disappointed to see that you did not include Le Fate(restaurant)in your new guide book for Rome. Did anyone on your staff visit Le Fate as I had suggested? If so, what were their criticisms of the restaurant. Sincerely, Bill Herrera

Bill Herrera in Walnut Creek, CA USA 10/02/2006

There could be no better travel guide book for the traveler who has limited time! Your book saved us Hours of waiting in lines and gave us the best city footpath tours, covering EVERYTHING we wanted to see and even some unexpected surprises! The words "thank you RIck Steves" came from our lips over a dozen times a day. If it wasn't for your wonderful book, we would have been lucky to have covered 1/2 of what we saw ! So again we want to say THANK-YOU Rick Steves for making our Rome trip the Very best and memoriable trip we could have imagined! Best Regards, Lin and John Milles - USA - PA

Linette Kline in Douglassville, PA USA 09/30/2006

Had a wonderful Vatican/St. Peters private tour in August 2006 with Tom Robinson of Through Eternity.com that you had recommended. He was knowledgeable, informative, entertaining and patient! Also we really enjoyed the tour with Micaela Pavoncello who you had recommended for Jewish Rome. Fantastic!!

Doug Seidman in New York, NY USA 09/26/2006

We have just returned from Europe and spent September 12-15 in Rome. We wanted lodging in the area near the Central Train station as recommended in your 2006 book. We ended up using RomeBy.com to locate a Bed and Breakfast. We stayed at Notti a Roma B&B. This was an extremely accommodating and well run facility at 25 via Firenze. The hosts went above and beyond to meet our needs, ranging from confirming our flight home to booking restaurant reservations. Our contact was Giorgio Pellegrini, nottiroma@romeby.com

Russ & Pat Riley in St. Cloud, MN USA 09/24/2006

The Hotel Smeraldo was in a perfect location. The price was honored and we told many people about this discovery. I don't think there is a more perfect location in Rome if you want to leave your hotel in the evening and walk around. The area is incredibly full of people eating and enjoying themselves.

Michele Mahan in Burbank, ca USA 09/16/2006

The self guided night walk was perfect. We really enjoyed the viewing the beautiful fountains and sights under the Roman lights!

Robin in Toledo, Oh USA 09/08/2006

We used Rick's advice and used the website (www.ticketeria.it) to book the Borghese Gallery in Rome and it was insanely easy. Two minutes and you're set. Take advantage of this time saving way to make reservations!

Amanda in Woodbury, MN USA 09/06/2006

The guide book was great. We used it everywhere. I read from it constantly and our two sons (ages 16 and 25) enjoyed listening to the info.

We stayed in Hotel Solis on Via Cavour less than 1/4 mi from Coliseum, Palentine Hill and Forum. We were able to get a quad room there. Nice three star hotel but small (13 rooms - small breakfast room - elevator to 1st floor and you need to walk up to 2nd floor). Homemade gelato just across the street (we had it every night). No wash cloths (as mentioned by someone else).

We did laundry at 168 Via Cavour (16 euros for two loads using two dryers - worth it!).

We went early to the Coliseum to get tickets when they just opened in the morning and there were no lines. We actually went in the Coliseum later that morning (our two sons were up a little later) and went in on the left side (no line on the left) because we already had purchased tickets. We just had to show them we already had our tickets. We also did not notice any groups of gypsy children at the Coliseum.

We were careful to watch out for each other for any suspicious people during the whole trip. A couple of suspicious characters but no real problems.

Every museum and place we visited required cash for tickets. I was surprised as I thought we would be able to use credit cards for museums. Gift shops all took credit cards for purchases. We used ATMs and got the best exchange rate that way.

We were at the Forum ruins on one day and the doors to the Senate building were closed. They were opened on another day and we were able to get inside the Senate building on that day.

We visited the Vatican Museum in the afternoon on a Monday (about 1350-1400) and did not encounter very long lines to get in. But go to the Sistine Chapel right away as that will close earlier than the rest of the museum.

We recommend an overnight stay in Naples if you have time. By the time we toured Pompeii (WOW!) we got back to Naples later than expected museum and were tired and did not have the energy to do the museum or the Naples walk when we got back. Also, the regular train takes about 2 1/2 hrs to and from Rome with the stops. But we would not have missed Pompeii for anything!

If you want to walk the Appian way, do it on a Sunday when it is closed to traffic. We walked back from the San Sebastian Catacombs on a week day and Via Appia is narrow and a bit scary with the cars and buses.

There seems to be a line at every public restroom for women. We did fine the rest rooms on the left side of St. Peter's Sq (as you face St. Peters). Just look for the women waiting in line!

We found a little store up the street from our hotel and bought some sandwiches and cartons of juice for lunch.

Museum at the gates of the city (near Via Appia) was closed when it was supposed to be open.

Judy Schenk in Wheat Ridge, CO USA 08/22/2006

Hello, I'd like to recommend an addition to the guidebook, namely our small but well weathered vacation apartments agency service in Rome.

We're English and we have our own apartments too which we handle directly so we know what makes travellers happy (or not!).

The other apartments on our site have been added through friends and acquaintances and are all of a generally higher standard than average.

The site's doing ok too, especially for a family run thing with no external help vs seriously hungry competition: first page on google and yahoo for "rome apartments" or "rome selfcatering" and as I said extra apartments added purely through word of mouth.

We've also added plenty of extra info about ancient Rome (I'm compiling a book actually) + images and paintings. Living in Rome we can give pretty first hand info and advice, and as I said we've been at it for quite some time: 10 years or so.

Take a view of my article and paintings on Rome's coffee bars... http://www.mariamilani.com/rome_restaurants/rome_coffee_bars.htm.

The website's http://www.mariamilani.com/

Regards and thanks, contact details attached below. Gio web site adminitrator, resident ancient Rome historian, article writer & artist. Oh yes, and Business Dev.

Giovanni Milani-Santarpia in Rome, Italy 08/17/2006

Hotel Augustus near Piazza Fiume. An Italian friend at work recommended this one. It's a short city bus ride to the train station. Air conditioned, Tb for less than 100 euros a night. Very clean establishment. Marco and all of the front desk staff went out of their way to point out lesser known city sights and arrange transportation when needed. Also, our room came with a PC that had a DSL connection. That made my teenage daughter very happy

Britt Griffith in Corona, CA USA 08/05/2006

Hotel Augustus near Piazza Fiume. An Italian friend at work recommended this one. It's a short city bus ride to the train station. Air conditioned, Tb for less than 100 euros a night. Very clean establishment. Marco and all of the front desk staff went out of their way to point out lesser known city sights and arrange transportation when needed.

Britt Griffith in Corona, CA USA 08/05/2006

Check at the hotel rerception desk in the evening to find out about scheduled strikes that might affect travel plans for the next day-especially transportation and bank strikes.

Phil WI USA 08/05/2006

I broke down and wore 'touristy' white sneakers for the first time in all my world travels and was VERY glad to have them on for all the miles I walked on the very hot, uneven cobblestone streets in summertime Rome. Good padding and foot support: I was SO glad I had them. (Old ones, so I could leave them and use suitcase room for my new purchases!) If you like to walk during your travels, don't sacrifice safety and comfort for style - you are not there to impress strangers (unless you ARE there to do just that!)

Joanne Fritch in Hayward, CA USA 07/29/2006

Location is everything! We stayed in the neighborhood west of the Vatican Wall--quiet, authentic Roman neighborhood, good tavernas, good shopping, good bus line (#81 or 491) downtown. We even walked from downtown back to our hotel through Piazza del Poppolo across the Tiber, sampling gelato. There are several good, small hotels in this area off the Calle di Rienza.

Glenda Grunzweig in Spokane, WA USA 07/26/2006

It is possible to buy train tickets from multilingual machines at the train stations using cash or credit card. Much faster than standing in line at the window and saves a trip to a travel agency.

Rosemary West in Los Angeles, CA USA 07/16/2006

Hotel Ponte Sisto (Via dei Pettinari, 64 ) is recommended on Fodor's, but not by Rick. The location is perfect: 10 minute walk to trastavere, vatican, pantheon, etc. Via dei Pettinari is a narrow cobblestone alley, with a convenience store, grocery and gellateria nearby. very professional staff. Front desk people and bellhop spoke excellent English. They arranged private transport to Termini for me on 10 minutes notice when the taxis went on strike the day of my departure. Breakfast included and served in an outdoor patio. Double windows make the rooms quiet. We slept soundly the night Italy won the World cup, while pandemonium ruled the streets outside. Very modern bath, A/C, in room safe, etc. Definitely a 'splurge' price-wise, but considering the location and the quality, I think it is a good value.

Dave in SF, CA USA 07/15/2006

The instructions on how to get to Naples and the Circumvesuviana are very helpful. However, it would be nice to have a little section on Herculaneum as well. My husband and I have been there twice and found it just as interesting and far less crowded than Pompeii. Also, since it is so much smaller, it is much more manageable than Pompeii. I almost don't want to suggest this because I really enjoy the lack of crowds at Herculaneum!

Summer Trentin in Cedar Rapids, IA USA 07/12/2006

Please include this wonderful restaurant in your future guidebooks for Rome. Name: Il Padellaccio 2. Owners are Gnnaro and Omar. Our waiter was a gentleman named Abdul. Their addres: Viale Manzoni, 73-75-77, Roma. Phone: 06-70-45-17-73. They have wonderful pasta and fish and meat!

Christine Avalos in Austin, TX USA 07/08/2006

We used the 2005 Rome Book as a reference

Norman F. Weber in Mount Juliet, TN USA 07/05/2006

The Palatine Hill Section was a gem. Most local tours underrate this area, but Rick made sure we didn't miss out.

Patti USA 07/04/2006

Hi there,

I've enjoyed being informed by your site about the vageries of travel in Rome and have a personal experience I'd like to contribute. I didn't read your entire site, so don't know if this scam has been reported yet (I found one mention of it elsewhere, but the more known it is the better)

Solo american tourist (me) is walking down residential street near Santa Maria Maggiore. Well dressed man (tie etc..) in a clean new car stops and asks for directions---claims he's lost and is not from Rome. Trys to start a conversation and intimates that he is a "Versace Rep" from France. More flattery and distracting chitchat. "Oh, I have relatives in L.A.!" etc... Then offers to give me one of Versace's new jackets for my kindness....yeah, sure! Next he asks if he could have some money for gas. I, as an affable american stooge give him 10 euros (figuring gas is expensive in europe) and because I like to help people out--and hey, he's being a nice guy right? I think Americans are a good target because we do things like this and people can trespass on our openess (I then began to be incredulous about the whole thing, but he was a fast operator and kept the conversation (I should say monologue) rolling about as fast as I could process the unexpected situation). Next, he motions for me to lean into the car while insisting that just a little more money would be nice "I give you jacket no?"

Ok, that's just stupid...at this point, I realized what an incredible half-witted stooge I'd been, weighed my options about grabbing for the 10 euros back and decided it would be smarter to just walk off---as I walked away, I tried to rationalize the 10 euro loss as the price of a 45 second performance by a half-rate con, and a good lesson learned!

I'm sure the routine probably brings him a big win of 100 euros or more every few days. Just watch out for this one and scams like it---it seems stupid I know, but I surprised myself for falling for it!

Owen Howlett in Callao, VA USA 07/03/2006

Insalata Ricca is a vegetarian restaurant, with some meat dishes, fresh, inexpensive, great food. 3 locations in Rome.

Dana Ross in Birmingham, AL USA 06/28/2006

Thought your book did a really excellent job at leading and guiding us through the best of Rome. A real suprise you lead us onto was the National Museum of Ancient Roman Artifacts near the train station. Loved the chronological order of the museum and your tour in the book. Gave a lot of context to the history and arc of ancient Roman history. Perfect for a hot afternoon day in Rome when shops are closed, espeacially because the museum is well air conditioned, quiet and not crowded. One thing I would add to the museum tour would be "Livia's house" on the third floor, a fully transported room from Livia's royal retreat villa in Anzio. 360 degrees of frescoes in full color and in excellent condition. Really gave a lot of humanity to the lives of the ancient royals other than what one takes away from the ruins, white statutes or partial fragment of artifacts. Really unique. Hard to believe that one would be standing inside a room personal to Augustus' wife with all the decorations entact. I would add it to the end of the museum tour.

Craig in Washington, dc USA 06/23/2006

Two summers ago I took my oldest son to Rome, and one very crucial point that is not included in Rick's books (and we were lucky to be close to) are grocery stores. We stayed two blocks from a small grocery store and found this essential to staying on budget by eating in our room, and picking up snacks. When possible I'd like to see this information in Rick's books.

[Editor's Note: We do mention various types of grocery stores in the beginning of our Eating chapter. Look on p. 264-265 of our 2007 edition for the locations of some handy alimentari and supermercato.]

Gregg A Larsen in Minneapolis, MN USA 06/21/2006

If you want to learn everything there is to learn about the Jewish history in Rome, Italy, then you must have a walking tour with Micaela Pavoncello through the Jewish Ghetto. This was the most informative and interesting 2 hours we spent whilst on a tour in Rome. She is referred to as the "Queen of the Ghetto" and you will understand why after meeting this charming and outgoing lady. Everyone knows her, speaks to her and smiles when they see her...all except one woman who owns the Kosher bakery, but I think this lady never smiles. Her baked goods still smelled wonderful despite her grim face. We had a hearing impaired man travelling with us and Micaela went out of her way to speak loudly, clearly and directly to him, making this tour excellent for him as well as the other 3 people we were travelling with. He often misses out on so much, but not with Mica!! You will be amazed to find out the Jewish connections to ancient Rome. Absolutely fascinating! This is not just a tour for Jewish people, this is a must do tour for everyone who is interested in history, archaeology, architecture and cultures! Don't miss out on this tour while in Rome. You will love every minute of it!

Lisa Gair in Leeds, UK 06/21/2006

You can get very close to the actual sight of Julius Caesar's assassination if you go to the Area Sacra in the Largo Argentina. The sunken excavations (you can't go down into them) are visible from street level. They are the remains of four temples that were on the back side of Pompey's Theater.

Caesar was assassinated, not in the Curia of the Forum, but in the Curia of Pompey's Theater near this very spot. Standing on the west side of the Area Sacra, look directly to the rear and to the left of the remains of the circular temple (Temple of Fortuna). The foundations of the Curia building in which he was assassinated can be seen. The actual building would have extended further back than the current excavations and under part of the modern road behind.

Alfred in Litton, TX USA 06/15/2006

For transporation to and from Rome to Fiumicino Airport, we booked Rome Shuttle Limousine (RSL) on line in the states. 35 euros. They met us at the Airport just outside the customs area right on time and took us to our appartment in a very nice 4-door Fiat. We also prearranged the return trip and they were again right on time, this time in a very nice Mercedes. It's a good deal from 35 euros.

Steve Neal in Pheonix, AZ USA 06/12/2006

Earlier this year I took an eight week conversational Italian course. My instructor, a woman from Milan, suggested I rent an appartment in Rome instead of staying in a hotel. I found a web site: www.homelidays.com and rented an 861 sq. ft. appartment near the Vatican for nine days for 845 euros. It was a wonderful sixth floor apartment with a view of Monte Mario and the cupola of San Pietro. It had a foyer, living room/dining room, fully stocked kitchen, newly remodeled bathroom, bedroom, and a utility room. It also included a laptop computer with high-speed access. Since it had a washing machine, we were able to pack only three days worth of clothes instead of nine days. The owners also provided a binder with bus schedules and restaurant recommendations. There was also a diary full of comments from previous guests. Consider this alternative instead of a hotel. There are literally hundreds of these in Rome in all areas.

Steve Neal in Phoenix, AZ USA 06/10/2006

Restaurant La Taverna Dei Fori Imperiali on Via Madonna dei Monti, 16. Family run, excellent food. Nicolas Inn B & B Via Cavour 295, Roma Italy 00184. Melissa and Francois, the best for hospitality. Clean room, good continental breakfast....5 minute walking distace to Colosseum & Forum.

Linda in Brooklyn, NY USA 06/03/2006

Micaela Pavoncella! Her tour of the Synagogue and Jewish ghetto in Rome was a major highlight of our trip. She was knowledgeable, fun, warm, easy to be with. A total delight!

Paula Wittlin in Mamaroneck, NY USA 05/30/2006

Austin Winant in Woodinville, Wa USA 05/25/2006

What a wonderful experience it is to walk with Micaela through her city and Jewish Quarter. She passionately loves her heritage and her people. It comes through with each desciption and story that she tells. Her people skills are the best as you watch her deal with many personalities and needs. I would choose Micaela for a tour of any historical site in Rome, knowing that I would be getting the best. If you want to experience authentic Roman, Italian and Jewish culture, then it is all available in the person of Micaela Pavoncello.

Sammye Lee in San Francisco, CA USA 05/23/2006

Pastarito is a chain restaurant around Rome but you'd never know it is a chain. (There was one right near our hotel.) For travelers on a tight budget, this is a great place to eat. We had two of our best meals in Rome there (including fresh pasta and good wine) and you get a lot of food for a VERY reasonable price. It's also a very nice atmosphere -- white tablecloths and good service.

Melanie Amick in Lexington, SC USA 05/16/2006

VIP Vatican tours by Max Ducci. Included entry to the Sistine Chapel around 8 AM before the regular tour groups hit.

Alan Scott in Missouri City, TX USA 05/11/2006

RE: ATM's in Rome In your guidebooks you recommend getting cash from ATM's. Although I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to Rome (Mar31 - Apr 3, 2006), I did not feel comfortable using the ATM's. We only passed one at Ciamino Airport and once we got into the city there were questionable characters hanging around the ATM's on the streets, and all the bank entrances were guarded with restricted entrance. After borrowing from friends who had brought Euro's from the states I finally gave in and paid a cash company a 10% fee for Euros! Surely I would have been better getting money before leaving home. Paris and London,however, were no problem. There were cash machines throughout the airport and train stations and I felt safe using the ones on the streets as well.

Michelle Taylor in Montgomery, AL, 36 USA 05/08/2006

Go to calcio game!!!!!! soccer game) I've been going to sporting events in the U.S. since I was 5 years old. I've done them all: been at World Series games, NFL Playoffs, Basketball...the whole shabang. Nothing, and I do mean nothing, compares to the energy, emotion, passion, and experience of being apart of a big calcio match in Rome. As you sit/stand there among the masses you get flashes of yourself standing, not in a contemporary stadium, but in the Colosium surrounded by other Romans. The vocal undulation of song, hissing, and chearing sucks you in and doesn't let go. One of the first Italians I met told me that soccer in Italy is not a sport...it is a religion. If that is the case then the spiritual center of Rome may not be found at the Vatican, but instead, a few miles north at the Stadio Olympico.

Jordan in San Francisco, CA USA 05/04/2006

I returned from a ten day trip to Rome in March. The Rome guidebook was indispensi ble. The one thing lacking were specific addresses. I was asked to get out of a taxi because I could not give an address to a church I wanted to visit. I refused and gave another location I found in the guidebook and showed the driver a picture of the location & he took me there. It seems that unless you give an address the taxi drivers won't move.

Brigid Laing in Bellevue, WA USA 05/01/2006

Regarding VAT Refunds. Although the guidebook indicates that it can be difficult to receive the refund, I had no problem. I simply received my refund through Global Refund. The store provided me with all the forms I needed to complete. I then took the form to the airport (DaVinci), had my form stamped and received my cash refund (in U.S. dollars) at the Global Refund booth next to the customs booth. Everything is located in terminal 3. Global Refund does keep a small percentage of the refund as a transaction fee, but receiving some of the refund is better than not receiving any. It was very easy to do and I recommend everyone ask about Global Refund when they are making purchases throughout Italy.

Mrs. Muir GA USA 04/20/2006

The Vatican and Ancient Rome tour with Brenda Bohen was wonderful. She was incredible with our girls, and had so many fascinating stories about the spots that we visited, and the artwork that we saw. Our girls loved her, and were blown away by the things that they saw. Brenda has an amazing amount of information and knowledge to share. Don't miss her tours!

Marlene and Louis Rich in Manhattan Beach, Ca USA 04/19/2006

The Jewish Getto Tour with Michaela Pavoncello was amazing! Our family was captivated by her personality and knowledge. Michaela had fun stories for the kids as well as the adults, and was able to hold our attention for the entire tour. When in Rome, this is a MUST DO!

Marlene and Louis Rich in Manhattan Beach, Ca USA 04/19/2006

Jewish Ghetto tour with Micaela Pavoncello Why: Stunning, intellectual, sophisticated, worldly, artistic,professional and ever so competent is Ms. Pavoncello who dazzled my 21 year old nephew with her expertise and gorgeous visage. This has to be Rick Steves most sought after guide. This is not your usual tour guide. Don't miss this young lady in Rome. The highlight of my trip with my sister and nephew. Now planning a tour with Micaela for my 23 year old son a student at the London School of Economics for his spring break. We are forever enamored---you will be too! Blair Kendall, rural Wisconsin, April 2006

Blair in Kingston in WI , USA 04/19/2006

Your book was so helpfull, i think i could be a guide after spending a week in Rome. We got everywhere we needed to go with ease. You were known as "Rico Suave" when your book needed to be consulted. Example "what does Rico Suave have to say"

SHANE LARSEN in HOLLADAY, UT USA 04/18/2006

By the way, if you want to see the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel WITHOUT WAITING IN LINE, go late in the day, not early. My daughter and I literally walked right in without a single person ahead of us at 3 pm. The Sistine Chapel was still crowded, but not as bad as I have seen it. Of course, that doesn't give you a lot of time to view the rest of the museum, but I'll take that trade-off any day.

S Heinen in Tulsa, OK USA 04/11/2006

I swear by Rick Steves travel books, but I was disappointed with Rome's book. I stumbled across a website (envenre.com) that had great hotels for very cheap. There is a bus that leaves from Termini station that goes to Ciampinio airport, for every RyanAir flight, that was the cheapest and easist way to catch out flight.

Jennifer Henderson in Statham, GA USA 04/06/2006

When you buy train tickets they must be time stamped. My 16 year old daughter pointed this out and it would be good to highlight this fact more prominently in your book

Allen DaGue in St Louis, Mo USA 04/02/2006

The pizzaria on the corner of Hotel Aberdeen is worth the stay.

louise Phillips in staten Island, ny USA 04/01/2006

Castle St. Angelo - the view of Rome from the top of the Castle is stunning! It's an easy climb.

Don't let the lines at St. Peter's Basilica or the Vatican deter you! They move very quickly.

At St. Peter's BasilicaYou can view the tomb of Pope John Paul and St. Peter by lining up just left of the line for climbing the dome. A guide will take you under the church. There is no charge.

J in HONOLULU, HI USA 03/30/2006

When arriving by train from the airport to the Termini station. The best place to get a taxi is in front of the station after walking along track 24 ALL the way to the front of the station. Don't go downstairs from the track you arrive from the airport. It's more difficult to get a taxi there, and if you do get one, they try to scam you. One taxi driver offered us 25 euros for a 5 kilometer ride to our hotel. We refused and waited for another one.

Eva Tai in Ellicott City, MD USA 03/28/2006

We recommend www.jewishroma.com with Brenda Bohen and Micaela Pavoncello. Both of them talk constantly and provide tons of background information. Brenda gives ideas for sightseeing and restaurants "on your own" that are excellent--like having a friend in the city. Gaetano Manfredi in Pompeii is fabulous--couldn't be better--excellent "man's" perspective on engineering, history, social life.

Rob and Helen Bell in Grand Rapids, Mi USA 03/27/2006

Courtyard by Marriott Rome Portuense 2470 Fiumicino-Rome , Rome 00054 Phone: 39 06 999351 Fax: 39 06 99935888 Toll-Free: 1 800 185 4422 very large, quiet room; incredible breakfast buffet (about the best one we have seen in a long time) Room cost $115 with advance booking; free airport transpo; almost hourly into Rome - 6 Euros per person each way (well worth it).Close to Ostia. We would rate it a 5 star hotel;

Marion Woodfield in Shoreline, WA USA 03/23/2006

We stayed at marvelous hotel, the Hosianum Palace, which was not in any guidebooks. I found it on hotels.com and it easily meets your 9 criteria. It is on the Via Dei Polacchi,23, which is just off the Via Bottega Oscure. The Via Dei Polacchi is one of those tiny alley-like streets that are so intriguing. The hotel was small, elegant, meticulously clean with friendly staff. The beds were very firm and comfortable and it was quiet. We paid 180 euros for a double with two twins beds and that included a full breakfast buffet with eggs, bacon, sausage, pastries, fruit, yogurt, etc, and GOOD coffee. The location was exactly what I was looking for....it was close to the Capitoline Museum, the Forum, the Pantheon, the Piazzo Navona, the Trastevere. We walked everywhere, except the Vatican. It was so central we could easily return to the hotel for a break and we were able to go back to many places more than once, if we had a little extra time. (I went in the Pantheon 4 times and we went to the Forum twice.) There were a couple good restaurants on the Via Margana and many litte coffee shops nearby. The hotel has a webpage at www.hosianum.com, and its phone is 39066 9719604. I can't imagine staying any where else next time!

Mary Olinger in Richmond, VA USA 03/19/2006

Tour of the excavations under St. Peters. Vatican website has info about how to apply for a ticket, which must be done in advance. The longer in advance, the beter chance of getting the ticket, since each tour is limited to 12 people.

H Gellis in Brookline, MA USA 03/10/2006

We have just taken absolutely fabulous private group tours of Jewish Rome with (i) Micaela Pavoncello (a tour of the Jewish Museum, Synagogue and the Ghetto), and with Brenda Bohen (a Jewish Vatican Tour); very highly recommended!!! See www.jewishroma.com

Jeffrey Cummings in Toronto, On Canada 03/08/2006

Cioccolata al peporocino gelato is not chocolate with peppermint, but chocolate with hot peppers!

Daniel Ginsberg in Gig Harbor, WA USA 03/05/2006

It's worth mentioning that the line to get into he Vatican Museum (at least on my visit) was very looooooong...but very fast-moving. I got in the back of the line at Piazza Rosorgimento (a solid 200-plus yards from the entrance) expecting an hour wait. It took 20 minutes. I saw lots of people come up, survey the line, and turn away. Don't make that mistake! The line's quick (but in the sun -- grab a bottle of water), and the museum is worth it many times over.

John in Dallas, TX USA 02/12/2006

Via Appia (Appian Way) and Ostia Antica (the ancient port of Rome). Both are reachable by public transport, are less touristy and are fascinating. We enjoyed picnic lunch along the Via, next to a field of sheep. Ostia simply overwhelms with sense of history.

Paul Lucas in Newburyport , MA USA 02/04/2006

We stayed at the Hosianum Palace, which is well-located and had a good price (although it is not well-known by taxis so bring the address with you). Their beds are very, very hard, but rooms were lovely, breakfast fabulous, staff nice, and location couldn't be beat. Price was good via hotelbook.com.

Heidi in Gainesville, FL USA 01/19/2006

I am a Rick-o-phile and always take his book with me. Having said that, I also always bring the "Great Eats" book with me (I used "Great Eats Italy" for this trip) -lots of great tips in there for restaurants (just like Rick, the author of that series hasn't steered me wrong yet!)

mary wilkening in river falls, wi USA 01/17/2006

Our day with Jewish Roma guides Micaela Pavoncello and Brenda Bohen in Vatican City and the Jewish ghetto.

Jill Tanz in Chicago, IL USA 01/16/2006

This is my second trip to Rome. It was very short, only 3 days. Roman Odyssey tours (Jason) was great. I did the tour of the Vatican.

Mavis Warren in Albia, IA USA 01/07/2006

We spent 4 days each in London and Rome this week You need more cash (Euros) on hand in Italy than you do (Pounds) in London, as fewer cafes, restaurants and shops accept credit cards in Rome. Fantastic trip. Rick's book were great. Carried them along in my purse. Even my two teenagers got to the point were they were asking to refernce what was in the book with an exhibit transportaion recommendation, etc.

Dorothy Stanley in Monument, CO USA 01/06/2006

We reserved tickets for the Papal audience at the Vatican January 4th. Arriving there 1 1/2 hours early as recommened, we noticed chairs set up outside the church, but were funnelled in to the Basilica; which seemed logical because the skies looked questionable. We were joined by thousands of other tourists. At the specified time of 10:30 loud speakers inside were allowing us to hear the Pope speak to thousands of other tourists who had obviously gotten there later than us and were seated outside. It definitely sounded like the place to be as he spoke in may different languages, recognizing groups from differnt countires, etc.. After an hour of being locked in and all the cheering was done, he entered the church, spoke for a few minutes, walked down the center aisle for possible pictures (being tall or very pushy would definitely be an advantage) it was over. Moral of the story: ask whether the pope will give the full address to the outside audience or inside when you arrive at St. Peter's.

Dorothy Stanley in Monument, CO USA 01/06/2006