Provence & the French Riviera 2010
Best and worst restaurants:
Best: La Pailotte in Arles
Why: Best dinner in Arles although all dinners in Arles were very good (also had dinner at Le 16 and Au Bryn du Thym).
Art / Karyn Lougheed in Markham, ON Candada 11/01/2009
Best: le thyme? in arles, the no. 7 restaurants in vaison, uzes
Why: as i mentioned, i left the book in france so... we loved the restaurant on the rue with the doctor's name in arles that included the word "thyme". the woman you said to put in charge of us was really great as was the staff. great food. great night. in vaison, we ate at the "number 7" locations on the map. across the street from each other, very accomodating!
s. elizabeth in philadelphia, pa USA 10/05/2009
Worst: La Mere Germaine, Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Why: This was the most expensive restaurant we ate at in our entire two weeks in the French Riviera and Provence, and it was by far the worst. It was billed as having a "happy loyal clientele", but there was not a single local person in the restaurant, and certainly nobody was happy. It really felt like a tourist trap. The only possibilities for dinner were to order from one of two or three fixed menus, each quite expensive. Our meal for two people with modest wine was around 100 euros. We would have been willing to have a little splurge after a wonderful day of touring the Cotes du Rhone wine area (and enjoying all of the other Rick Steves recommendations that we took that day), but the food itself was horrible. The meal started with cauliflower ice cream, which tasted even more horrible than it sounds. Not having the French vocabulary for "cauliflower", we didn't know what the dish would be and actually guessed by the bitter, fishy taste that it was salt cod ice cream. After taking one bite, I caught the eye of a lady sitting at the next table who had been watching to see my reaction, trying not to laugh. She said, "I can eat anything, but there is no way that I could eat THAT!" We took her cue, and our only pleasure in this meal became to watch the other diners get their cauliflower surprise and see their horrified looks after one bite. Our main courses were truly terrible and seemed not only to be prepared badly but to be made with inferior ingredients. We were both hungry still and disappointed and looking forward to our desserts, but they were also amazingly bad. When I broke the crust on my lemon tart, the filling ran all over the plate, completely uncooked. I would recommend that the guidebook reconsider including this restaurant before the next edition is published.
Robin in Palm Desert, CA USA 09/30/2009
Best: La Paillotte & Brin de Thym , Arles; l'Ovale in Nice
Why: Great food, very nice people, very affordable. the planche de charcuterie at l'Ovale was outstanding
Louis in Lorraine, PQ Canada 09/27/2009
Best: Eze Chateau
Why: We followed Rick's directions to get to the Salon de The on the "cliff overlooking the jagged Riviera and sea." He was correct in that it was the most scenic wine break we could ask for. In fact, we were the only ones there (doesn't anyone else read this guide book?) -- enjoying the beautiful view.
Pattie Laun in Ellicott City, MD USA 08/03/2009
Best: La Lyriste, Vaison la Romaine
Why: This was a wonderful place that I shall remember always. 3 courses for the sum of 18 Euro ($26). Presentation of food was, as the business card quotes, "an expression of poetry."
Worst: Festival Cafe, Vaison la Romaine
Why: While not recommended in the Provence book we did stop in for lunch upon arrival in Vaison. This restaurant has a red canopy and is about 3 doors to the right of Hotel Burrhus. The wait for our salads was about 45 minutes, when all other tables seemed to receive food much more quickly. Try instead L'Annexe Cafe, yellow awning immediately to the right of Hotel Burrhus. Attentive, friendly service, great iced coffee.
Sharron Stevens in Oberstaufenbach, Germany 07/25/2009
Best: La Terrasse
Why: Dear Rick,
Thank you. While in Nice for the Monaco Grand Prix, my friends and I found our way to La Turbie for lunch at La Terrasse with Helen and Jacques as you recommend in your book.
La Terrasse was all that you promised, and more. The food and view were spectacular, as were Helen and Jacques. Jacques showed us a photo of one of the Formula One drivers who was there that morning for coffee. (Fernando Alonso) He must have read your book and figured it was a refuge from the tourists. Helen and Jacques were very thankful to you and mentioned you called recently.
Of course, we also had socca in Old Nice from the same woman that appeared in your PBS show.
I am a loyal fan of your PBS series and love your books. I promise to keep on traveling. You just need to keep on writing and doing your shows on PBS.
Thank you again.
Vincent Carlesimo
P.S. Restaurant le Pre Sale in Brussels was another great recommendation that I enjoyed on a previous trip.
Vincent Carlesimo in Sea Girt, NJ USA 05/28/2009
Best: L'ovale on rue Pastorelli in Nice
Why: Food was very good! Our guide arranged our last trip meal for 20 people here on our experience and your recommendation. We were all pleased and were told you had been in the week before. Friendly owners.
Pauline Tarantino in Greendale, WI USA 05/10/2009
Best: Restaurant Les Artistes, Avignon
Why: It was the only recommended restaurant I ate at, and its 16 euro menu was a lot of food. It was completely empty at 7:00 pm, though!
Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 01/02/2009
Worst: Hotel les Florets
Why: We stayed at the hotel several weeks ago.The hotel was OK, but the food we had in the restaurant was terrible.Thierry, the owner, was not at all helpful. As a matter of fact he was most pompous. He insisted on giving us an English menu when we would have been better off with a French one.The have only 3 preset menus. I ordered the white fish and asked him about it and he said it was breen whitefish. When it came it was so salty I cold not eat it. I could not figure why it was so awful- the fish seemed to be setting in an overdone mush of vegetables that looked liked green beans. Well, of course it was not edible and he came over after about 20 minutes to say why was I not eating the fish. I told him it was much too salty... he said but, of course, it was all the anchovies.Whee. This was not on the menu and I said I could not eat it . The rest of the meal was terrible and although the wine was fantastic,,,,one cannot live on wine alone.Well, maybe.I had read one bad review on another site where some one said the food was not good and I agree. Also other than the great patio, I did not think it was worth the money.
Jane in Lebanon , OH USA 11/15/2008
Best: Mistral, St. Remy (not recommended, but Rick should visit!); and the olive bar at St. Remy Wednesday market
Why: At Mistral I ordered a Seafood Salad and it was one of the best I've ever had (and we know seafood in Vancouver)!
As for the market in St. Remy, it's not a restaurant, but a magnificent wonder of cuisine nonetheless! Olives (which we love) of all kinds, marinated artichoke hearts, and a huge selection of tapenade. We loved the food in Provence!
Beth Triggs in North Vancouver, BC Canada 08/06/2008
Best: Brasserie La Victoire
Why: Great terrace for people watching, tasty budget priced food and wine
Martin Jansen in Agoura Hills, Ca USA 07/13/2008
Best: La Lyriste and Creperie "La Fleur de Sel" in Vaison-la-Romaine
Why: Unfortunately we are using the 2005 book so I don't know if either of these restaurants is in your latest additions. Both are excellent and would be good additions for your recommendations. La Lyriste, 45 Cours Taulignan, offers an absolutely delicious 18 euro, 3 course dinner. The atmosphere is unpretentious with simple elegance and the food presentations were beautiful & service was great. This was one of our best restaurant experiences in Provence. The Creperie, 5 rue Paul Buffaven, is a small lunch & dinner place. The savory crepes and salads were an excellent deal. This was some of the best food for the price in a very casual setting.
Anne Schiedel in Basel, Switzerland 06/08/2008
Best: Le 16, Arles
Why: Nice atmosphere, great service and food.
Anne Schiedel in Basel, Switzerland 06/08/2008
Best: Bistrot a Vins
Why: Ariane is just delightful. We were in the region for 10 days and ate at her place 3 times. The food was delicious using the freshest ingredients. The best part is Ariane will help you practice your French, but if you get stuck she comes to your aid. A wonderful experience.
Lisa Valle in Sycamore, IL USA 05/26/2008
Best: L'Epicurie in Avignon
Why: It had everything: taste, French bistro ambiance, historic location, value, selection, crowd buzz, and an enchanting, English-speaking server!
Lane Dolly in Falls Church, VA USA 05/25/2008
Best: La Paliotte
Why: Great food
Kate Buechler in Winnipeg, MB Canada 05/22/2008
Best: Restaurant Clerissy in Moustiers Sainte Marie
Why: Like the Chambres, the restaurant was an exceptionally good deal, with food that was fresh and well prepared.
Kitty in Centennial, CO USA 05/19/2008
Best: L' Acchiardo, Old Nice
Why: Nice food, and atmosphere--they had no idea that they were in your book, and seemed pleased to be shown the entry
Betsy Romano in Bloomfield Township, MI USA 03/10/2008
Best: Le Relais des Dentelles, 84190 Beaumes de Venise, 04 90 62 95 27
Why: Chef Alex Rahmatulins prepared a most delicious meal. The picturesque area produces Muscat (as I'm sure you know). The restaurant/hotel is co-owned by Alex and his Partner (an American which helped as we're not fluent in French), and is a much better choice than the wine-tasting store/restaurant off the main road.
Meghan Strubel in Oak Park, IL USA 12/01/2007
Best: La Bartavelle, Vaison la Romaine
Why: Food was excellent and the presentation was superb - good price also.
Martha in New Smyrna Beach, FL USA 10/20/2007
Worst: La Maison de Marie, Nice
Why: Made a return visit in 2007 since 2006 visit was fine. Requested garden seating was unavailable despite several empty tables that did not fill up during our dinner. We were seated at an inside table and soon we realized that everyone around us spoke English (American or British). Our meal was served by a sour faced, overworked, English speaking waitress. The fish I had was obviously not fresh and overdone (like bad banquet food). Perhaps it was thought fitting for the Amer/Brit ghetto.
Don Harris in Bryn Mawr, PA USA 10/09/2007
Best: La Paillotte, Au Brin de Thym, and Le Pistou
Why: Every meal we had in Arles was delicious, from our take-home lunch picnics to the dinners out. Take advantage of the price fixed meal deals in the restaurants because you'll never see those prices in Paris.
Aimee in Oakland, CA USA 08/26/2007
Worst: Restaurant Castel, Nice
Why: We decided to splurge and we were disappointed. The service was very poor - food was so-so, and my husband didn't even get what he had ordered, but ate it anyway, because the wait was so long. The location and view is lovely, but that is about all we can say for this place and it was pretty expensive on our budget.
Sharon & Leo Marty in Olympia, WA USA 08/21/2007
Best: la Voute
Why: excellent 19 euro menu, good variety and presentation. Was fish though, to my daughters chagrin. We also like le 8 et Demi: fast, good variety, friendly waiters, good prices
We also like El Sol: lunch emporter was great, you could design a salad of your choice.
Cindy in Shurtleff, wa USA 07/13/2007
Best: La Table du Comtat in Seguret, Cotes du Rhone
Why: exquisite cuisine and magnificent views, come for a set 20 euros menu lunch before 1 pm.
Edward in Newton, MA USA 06/25/2007
Best: Le Tournesol
Why: Very friendly, great food even though we spoke different languages, we all spoke "good food!" We appreciate the advice on areas to check out where the restaurants might be better because they are not the main tourist areas where they feel they can charge more. That advice led us to much better choices.This was true in Arle, Vaison and Avignon.
Terry in Lafayette, CA USA 06/05/2007
Best: La Brochurie, Aix-en-Provence
Why: Not only excellent food, but wonderful and friendly service, very warm and comfortable ambience.
Tod Weber in Cupertino, ca USA 05/28/2007
Best: Cafe Bonaparte (Paris)
Why: As promised, a quieter, less expensive place to sip coffee and people-watch near St. Germain-des-pres
Worst: Le Cafe Jardin (Antibes)
Why: Where to begin? The courtyard was appealing, but we had jarring service--an American-style rush to slap everything on the table as quickly as possible, in a loud and clumsy manner. The food was mediocre--the most interesting part of the dinner was the dish in which it was served. The prices were not low enough to justify the quality of the dining.
Jeri Cary in Juneau, AK USA 05/08/2007
Best: l'Univers, 54 bd Jean Jaures (on the edge of Vieux Nice)
Why: During the 10 days in Dec. 2006 that we spent in Vieux Nice, l'Univers offered a 20e menu that was fabulous--and so inexpensive for a one-star Michelin restaurant. Maitre d' was friendly and helpful. Food presentation incredible--some dishes served beautifully on slate tiles.
Worst: Le Safari in Vieux Nice
Why: Restaurant was not busy in December, but service was poor (forgot our drinks, would not substitute for the chocolate dessert when my husband can't eat chocolate), and food not worth the price.
Karen Woodworth in Athens, OH USA 01/17/2007
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