Eastern Europe

Best and worst sights, experiences and destinations:

Best: Holocaust Memorial Center Budapest
Why: Excellent English descriptions are provided for every display, video, and photograph. The presentation is seamless, crowds were non-existent during my visit, and the exhibits were informative, technologically impressive, and very moving. An outstanding museum.

Worst: House of Terror, Budapest
Why: Poorly presented exhibits, crowded, dimly lit small rooms, large groups of school children, and no English information for videos, photographs or exhibit items. English information sheets provided in each room were long discourses on a general subject but not specific to individual items in the room. This also applies to the audio commentaries which are too long and general to be useful. Unfortunately, this museum is designed only for Hungarian speakers.

Barbara Vanek in Livingtston, TX USA 11/08/2009

Best: Parisi Udvar Gallery
Why: Totally unexpected and beautiful.

Shirley Fleig in San Diego, CA USA 10/12/2009

Best: Budapest
Why: Although we didn't go to every site in this book (prague, vienna, bratislava and budapest this trip), budapest was an unexpectedly fun and easy city. Loved "TAKING THE WATERS" at szechenyi.

J. Briggs in Seattle, WA USA 10/10/2009

Best: Prague, Budapest & Krakow. Hard to pick just one
Why: Beautiful Old World cities.

Ash Morris in Tulsa, OK USA 10/03/2009

Best: Krakow is wonderful
Why: Beautiful city, friendly people, excellent rates and best food!

Marta and Andrew were excellent guides. Andrew's knowledge of Auschwitz was extremly valuable. Excellent tour guide and wonderfully friendly.

susan ford in senoia, GA USA 10/02/2009

Best: Auschwitz outside of Krakow.
Why: Words can not describe your feelings after a visit. It is tough but you need to see it. How could people do that to other people. We paid a staff member of the Globtroter to drive us to the camps & it was a great decision. We learned so much about Poland & its people.

Scot Dailey in Arlington, Tx USA 08/15/2009

Best: Crazy Guys Communism Tour in Kracow
Why: We did the Deluxe tour. Lunch at Milk Bar was nice. Guide was young intelligent student who knew more than script.

Don Waddell in Walnut Creek, CA USA 07/25/2009

Best: Spissky Hrad
Why: Beautiful castle ruins in a beautiful area of the Slovak Republic.

Worst: Road signs in Budapest
Why: Buy a Budapest map if you will be driving in this area. The signs are terrible.

Tim Bolinger in Plano, TX USA 07/14/2009

Best: Krakow
Why: Rick Steves referred to Krakow as the next Prague, and we really agreed with him. In fact, we loved the city even more than Prague- it just had really great vibes. Plus, we loved the cafeteria part of Chimera- great food and prices.

Amy Tedoff in Colts Neck, NJ USA 07/12/2009

Best: Szechenyi Baths - Page 459
Why: This was a great experience and we wouldn't have gone without Rick's urging and the step-by-step process he sets out in the book. We had a wonderful time watching the crowd, plus it was a great way to unwind after the overnight train from Ljubljana.

Jack Martin in Lawrence, KS USA 06/28/2009

Best: Budapest baths and market, Prague architecture
Why: Szechenyi baths was our favourite part of the trip.

Worst: House of Music in Vienna
Why: Just terrible and not worth the money. Half the interactive displays didn't work.

C. Marr in Hamilton, ON Canada 06/12/2009

Best: Szechenyi Baths in Budapest & Use of Public Transit
Why: For me this was the highlight of my trip to Prague, Vienna, and Budapest. The book provided instructions on what to do upon arrival at the baths, which minimized confusion and allowed for an enjoyable afternoon. It was a wonderful way to experience the locals and receive the therapeutic benefits of the baths. And the circle of rapids certainly brought out the kid in me as well as a half dozen Italian ladies as we bumped into one another while being pushed by the jets. The public transit systems in all three cities were exceptional, and I certainly got my money's worth from the 3-day passes in each city. Thanks for the tips and making me a well-informed and happy traveler.

Janet in Valley Forge, PA USA 01/15/2009

Best: Sachsenhausen Concentraction Camp Tour and Terezin Memorial Tour
Why: Both native English speaking guides were excellent.

Lorraine Chatham in San Francisco, CA USA 01/08/2009

Best: Prague
Why: Very atmospheric, evocative, and picturesque. Wonderfully gothic and baroque.

Worst: Gellert Baths, Budapest
Why: The baths were OK, but the entrance procedure is needlessly complicated. Staff acts as if their idiosyncratic practices are the most natural and you're an idiot for not getting it.

er in Seattle, WA USA 12/02/2008

Best: Andrew Durman - private driver Krakow
Why: Andrew was a great guide/driver for Auschwitz I & II. He was very knowledgeable of Polish history and his English was excellent. We also used Andrew for airport transfers which really made things easy.

Tamara in Ardmore, OK USA 11/15/2008

Worst: Dobo Vendeghaz
Why: We were looking forward to this guest house based on the reviews and Rick Steves recommendation, but when we got there we were told that they were full, even though we had made our reservation 8 months previously. We were put into a room across the street which was less than desirable. the second morning there was no hot water as the pilot light had gone out and we had cold showers. The saving grace was that the bed was not bad and they brought a nice breakfast to the room. Since we were across the street from the Dobo guesthouse, we could also see that in fact it wasn't full, it was dark the whole 2 days we were there and obviously we were probably the only booking so they decided not to open. We find that unacceptable. If you take a booking, you have to honor it.

Sue Moffat in Nelson, BC, BC Canada 10/26/2008

Best: The 3-hr. canoe trip in Krumlov
Why: We like activities outdoors like biking, hiking, canoeing, etc.

Judy Mondy in Odessa, TX USA 09/26/2008

Best: Krakow
Why: This city was just so nice to be in- clean and full of friendly people.

Worst: Prague Castle
Why: I would recommend to everyone NOT to pay for admission- St. Vitus Cathedral is nice, but that is a separate admission- 250Kc for the short tour was about 200Kc too much :)

Tracy in Austin, Te USA 09/15/2008

Best: Szechenyi Baths
Why: The baths were completely relaxing! It made a great end to a busy day running around Budapest. It's nice that the baths are open 'til 22:00 (at least in summertime).

Peter Vatne in Nashua, NH USA 09/12/2008

Worst: House of Terror in Budapest/ Lobo Shuttle to Cesky Krumlov
Why: $9 to read handouts in English?! Good intentions but not english speaking tourist friendly. Not worthy of 2 bullets. History Musuem near Kalvin Ter much Better. Lobo shuttle quoted 1100 CZK which converts into about 46.4 Euro. They wanted me to pay 52 Euro to get on the shuttle. We ended up agreeing that I would go to ATM when I arrived in Cesky Krumlov. Return trip offered at discount of 1000 CZK. At the Infocentrum, Lobo shuttle to WestBanhof offerred for 860. Unscrupulous. Go with Sebastian or some other shuttle servcie.

Kim Smith in Chicago, IL USA 09/03/2008

Best: Krakow
Why: Lovely old city in great condition. I agree with RS that it is the next Prague, but without the crowds and associated prices.

David Murray in Avon, IN USA 08/23/2008

Worst: Museum of Communism, Prague...the worst if you don't enjoy seeing the U.S. denigrated...
Why: I visited this museum last week and found it somewhat interesting, although a bit ho-hum. Before exiting, I was looking through the posters for sale in the small gift-shop, which hype the museum's exhbits on the former communist regimes of the Soviet bloc. Here are two of the posters you can spend your money on (I'm quoting from memory): "Paranoia, Propaganda and Military Invasions...No, Not George W.'s America. The Museum of Communism." Another read, "Go Back to the Days When the Voice of America was the Voice of Freedom."

I called over the middle-aged woman who was working the counter. After asking if she spoke English, to which she said yes, I pointed to one of the posters and politely said, "I like your museum, but I don't like to see my country insulted." She looked unsure of what I meant, so I smiled, pointed to George W.s name and said, "This is my president." She just giggled stupidly...I don't think she really understood what I was saying.

I don't like to see my country or my president denigrated abroad, especially in a museum that probably makes a lot of money from American visitors. I would feel the same way if it were Bill Clinton, whom I didn't like, being put down, as I felt when it was George W. Bush, whom I generally support.

The most ironic thing was to see this in a museum celebrating the fall of communism. The same shallow and ignorant comments that are often made about Bush, and America under Bush, as on these posters, were also made about Reagan and Reagan's America when he was assertively opposing the communists: Oh, he's a warmonger, he's so inflexible, he's not that bright, he's not a sophisticate, and, most importantly, the Europeans don't like him. Today, Reagan is given a lot of the credit for the collapse of communism. And in a museum celebrating that collapse, the same ugly things that were said about him appear on posters referencing our current president, and our country today.

Gee, I didn't know America's voice had stopped being the voice of freedom. Thanks for clueing me in, leftist European airheads...and don't hesitate to call us the next time we have to bail your continent out of a hell that your more sophisticated leaders have created for you...as we do periodically, including during the time when the communists had their boots on your throat.

Whether you're a Republican, Democrat, or neither, if you're an American with the slightest trace of national pride, skip the Museum of Communism in Prague.

I'm glad I saw those posters before I dropped a bunch of money on t-shirts and refrigerator magnets in the gift shop!

(I also posted this feedback in the "Prague & the Czech Republic" section.)

George Mole' in Bronx, NY USA 08/18/2008

Best: Loved the Szechenyi Baths, Budapest
Why: After 2 weeks of non-stop sightseeing, it was a joy to relax on my last day in Europe and just soak up the hot water. And the bubbly "medium hot" pool was fun to bob around in.

Worst: Szechenyi Baths
Why: The lack of English or even another European language on the signage was frustrating. Two young girls who directed me to the changing rooms said they were the only ones who spoke English in the entire complex. I walked around for quite a while before I found the locker room, and had no clue how to use the locker--fortunately, a woman who spoke a little English showed me how.

Hilde in Old Bridge, NJ USA 08/10/2008

Best: Szechenyi Baths & Great Hall Market, Budapest
Why: Wonderful and vibrant institutions with many more locals than tourists. They were real, colorul, fun places to spend time. I think they gave the tone of the city.

Jim Martin in Ashland, OR USA 07/26/2008

Best: Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic
Why: Yes, it is touristy. But it is such a well preserved walled village. and there were fewer tourist than in Prague.

Worst: Absolute Walking Tours, Budapest
Why: Guide was quite bored with the tour and more interested in his girlfriend who accompnaied us. He got us through as quickly and with the least discussion as he could.

Christine in Devon, PA USA 07/12/2008

Best: Peter Polczman as a guide in Budapest
Why: As part of our trip to central Europe these past two weeks, we hired a guide in Budapest, Hungary, Peter Polczman (mobile #0620-926-0557, from the US call 011-36-20-9260-557, Email: polczman@freestart.hu OR peter.polczman@guideclub.net). While it is possible to see the sights of Budapest on your own, a day's overview with Peter gives you a great jump start on what Budapest has to offer. After that start, you can always go around on your own and get more in depth and see additional sights and also have a better idea how the city is laid out and how you can get around it on your own. Peter tailors his itinerary based on your needs, interests, and capacity. We don't usually use a guide in our travels but one, such as friendly and knowledgeable Peter, in an intense place like Budapest is money well spent.

Shonn in HdG, MD USA 06/29/2008

Best: Legenda cruise
Why: We chose to celebrate our last evening in Budapest with a cruise on the Danube. We chose the Legenda company from the recommendation in your book and we were not disapointed. Shortly after we boarded we were welcomed by a group of young ladies that spoke a large variety of languages and welcomed people in their language, causing a group from Finland to cheer loudly! Champagne was served and as the ship began down the Danube, the lights of the city came on, making the evening a beautiful site. Another round of drinks was served by the very pleasant staff during the second part of the trip. The recorded dialoge was a good addition to the trip. This was one of the best cruise experiences I have had.

Mary Ann Christensen in Walkerton, IN USA 06/26/2008

Best: musical experiences in prague
Why: we were in prague during their music festival in may. 3 different venues, symphony in the municipal house, opera in the estates theatre and ballet in the national theatre, all amazing and I am NOT a person who is into this type of thing. However, to see world class music in timeless venues was inspiring. I recommend splurging if possible and visit these venues in the manner they were intended.

Worst: personal guide thru Sarka Kacabova
Why: We were given her father Milan. He spoke poor english, and primarily could not move. He would stop and talk forever. Our first day lasted 6 hours and we only saw half of what I expected. The second day was better because we told him he had to be done by noon. He was nice and friendly but for a private guide not well polished and not to the point. Also, he would dwell on details which were not very interesting. However, we highly recommend the group walking tour absolute walk in Budapest thru the Absolute Walking Tours. The guide was great and we got a good taste of the city in 3 and a half hours

mike in tempe, az USA 06/22/2008

Best: Szechenyi Baths in Budapest
Why: Taking the waters was the ultimate local experience. With Rick's help, paying and getting in was very easy. Not only was swirling around the circle a hoot, the fountain in the hot pool erased all my back and neck pain from backpacking! This is an experience not to be missed.

Tim in Bay City, TX USA 06/15/2008

Best: Szechenyi Baths in Budapest
Why: Unforgettable experience running in my bathing suit in 20 degree F from dressing room to pool of steam and in and out of two more pools before finding one warm enough to stay. It was crowded with people playing chess outside and lots more inside including the world's best sauna (running back in 20 degrees was comfortable!). We were there week between Xmas and New Years. Also huge ice skating rink near the pool with crowds dancing to music another great experience. Hungarians were out in very cold weather having fun!

Gail in Albany, OR USA 01/27/2008

Best: Budapest - Szechenyi Baths
Why: Get over your trepidations, follow Rick's explanation and have a great time. Unlike any local experience we have ever had.

Worst: Prague - Black Light Theatre - Aspects of Alice
Why: Shame on Rick for even suggesting that anyone pay an exhoribent amount of CASH for the most unprofessional, amateur, uncreative piece of performance art we have ever seen. For the same price we had box seats at the ballet and front row balcony seats at the opera - both first class. We purchased both of these tickets directly from the performance venue as the clerk at Via Musica was extremely rude and unhelpful. Its a good place to go to find information about what's going on but she told us that these performances were sold out and then we ended up with excellent tickets and thrilling performances.

Sondra in Portland, OR USA 11/06/2007

Best: Auschwitz/Birkenau
Why: There is something very compelling about visiting the concentration camps and these were on the top of our list to visit. We hired a private guide who took us through both camps, provided lots of information and history, plus he added that little extra background due to his father having fought in the Polish underground, in the Warsaw Uprising and being a prisoner of war - his background gave us a very different perspective of the events leading up to the war, during and after it was over. It is difficult to state this was a great day due to the horrific acts performed against the human race, but it was more than we expected in many ways and we feel very good to have taken the tour. Our guide also stopped at a polish cafe for an authentic polish lunch and took us to Schindler's Factory before dropping us back at our apartment. Guide: Jacek Jordan, contact: martachm@op.pl Al and Mary Hermansen

Allan Hermansen in Delano, MN USA 10/25/2007

Best: Gabriella of privatetoursbudapest.com
Why: She spent a lot of time and was very helpful in exploring Budapest which is a very large city, explaining her own experiences growing up during the communist era gave a lot of insight into life. She was extremely helpful, even in confirming our restaurant reservations.

Martin in New York, NY USA 10/23/2007

Best: Walking tour guides-Budapest
Why: We had two wonderful walking tours of Budapest. Thank you so much for the recommendation. Our guide arranged by Andrea was excellent and a fantastic part of our trip.

Worst: Budapest Metro system!
Why: You REALLY need to go into more depth to explain the pitfalls of this corrupt system. The system is, without question, designed to take advantage of tourists. Unless you have a Budapest Card, there is a 100% probability that you will be victimized. It is impossible to actually purchase the correct ticket to go to a destination. The whole system is rigged so that the controllers can hold you hostage and fine you.

Ticket sellers will only sell you a ticket good for one metro link WITH NO CONNECTIONS. Every time you need to transfer to another train after entering the metro, you must purchase a new ticket. No one tells you this and of course all the controllers and ticket sellers know this.

We were held hostage literally and forced to pay 20 Euros per person by really nasty controllers, after having purchased tickets, showing the map to the ticket seller and asking for the appropriate tickets and validating them.

The bottom line is that you really need to warn visitors that you really only have two options for public transportation in Budapest. The Budapest Card validated for travel time until you actually LEAVE the metro. They will fine you even if you are on the trains and your card expires, ie there is no such thing as a safe transfer once you enter the system! Or, less expensive, a 24 hour unlimited ticket purchased at the metro which is a lot cheaper than a Budapest Card.

One other important item regards taxis. Tourists should take the Zone cab right outside the exit terminal. Fixed, posted prices and fair. As you pointed out it is important to call. Good advice, except that most tourist will feel that they are ok if they have the hotel call them a cab. This is not correct!

You also need to call your own cab to go to the airport! It cost me 4,600 HUF to get to the hotel, 6,500 HUF to get from the hotel to the airport. Zone Cab is the best alternative by far. Check it out and let traveler's know about these pitfalls. They can leave a bad taste in the overall impression of a truly beautiful city!

[Editor's Note: Our 2007 edition of Eastern Europe discusses four different types of Budapest Metro tickets on page 415. This info was on page 392 of our 2006 edition. In both editions, we also warn about the ubiquitous ticket inspectors and how they seem to target tourists.]

Ralph Turkel in Stockholm, Sweden 10/10/2007

Best: Buy the 3-day pass for transportation in Budapest.
Why: It's cheap and extremely convenient. Most sights require transportation to reach and ticket checkers were everywhere. In Berlin we forget to stamp our tickets once while heading to the train station on the U2 subway; we were very fortunate not to get caught and have to pay a fine.

Rod Young in Bowie, MD USA 09/28/2007

Best: Krakow and Budapest
Why: Rick, we planned 2/3 of our trip (of course, add Prague!) based on your recommendations - and we loved the results. Budapest was well worth the visit, as was Krakow (Cracovia). They are different, with Budapest sprawling and Krakow more contained. But both have so much to offer, and are still new enough as 'attractions' to remain relatively inexpensive. We spent 4 days in each, which was about right. Visit now; if they adapt like Prague it will cost much more in 5 years.

Ken Lindsay in Granger, IN USA 08/17/2007

Best: Baroque Theatre, Chesky Krumlov
Why: I had never seen anything like this type of theatre, so preserved. I felt like I had been transported back in time. I would give it 3 stars instead the 2 in the book.

Nancy Williams in Avon, , CT USA 08/05/2007

Worst: St. Vitus and the Castle.
Why: We were in Prague four nights and three full days. The church is closed on Sundays. We bought a castle ticket on Sat. The church was posted closed until noon, but did not open until 2:00 pm. By that time the line was very long and it was raining hard. The line remained too long to visit all Sat.

Linda Bailey in Santa Rosa, CA USA 07/08/2007

Best: Opera and baths in Budapest
Why: We paid 4 dollars for decent seats in the beautiful opera house in Budapest. The opera we saw (Don Pasquale) had english subtitles and was really funny. It was a great evening!

You can't miss the baths. After a few hours relaxing in the baths, we felt like we were walking on clouds.

Worst: Levoca in Slovakia
Why: Slovakian Spis area is amazingly beautiful! We rented a car and drove from Poland to Hungary, through small roads in Spis. All the little towns on the way were really nice. Levoca wasn't bad but it was by no means the best town in Spis. For people travelling by train it's the most accessible so it may make sense to stop there, but if you have a car, spend more time in the countryside and less time in Levoca.

Beatriz Costa in Seattle, WA USA 06/29/2007

Best: Budapest, Prague
Why: Both beautiful cities, easy to get around, interesting architecture, great opera.

Worst: Sventendre, Hungary
Why: not much to see; touristy; must transfer from suburban train to bus which is very confusing due to construction.

Mary Ann Rose in Westminster, CO USA 06/28/2007

Best: Guest House Lida in Prague and Suzann's in Fussen, Germany
Why: The staff at Guest House Lida in Prague and Suzann's in Fussen, Germany, all made us feel that we were part of the family.

In Prague we were treated to a one-on-one with the owners who had coffee and cookies ready when we arrived. The walked us through the subway system and provided subway tickets for use. We were warmly welcomed into their home.

The same can be said for Suzann and her family. We have been visiting Suzann's since 1998. This visit we had dinner in her home. The dinner featured fresh picked white asparagus. I am a nurse here in Texas and I had been helping Suzann with reviewing standards of care regarding her husband and herself. She has always gone out of her way to make everyone fell like they were part of the family. We continue to write every few months.

Rick and his staff has always provided great information so that his readers could develop long-lasting friendships. Thank you for a great trip and we are already working on the next trip thanks to your great information.

Worst: added resturant costs in Prague
Why: One resturant suggested by the staff of Guest House Lida in Prague added a fee for bottles of ketsup and mustard they placed on the table. We did not ask for these items and we were not told of the fee. Needless to say we did not leave a tip. Everyone should audit their sales receipts.

Kirby L Nichols in College Station, TX USA 06/19/2007

Best: Prague transportation info
Why: We were able to get from the Train Station (Holesovice) to our Hotel (Hotel Slavia) using your book and public transportation. We each purchased the 7 day Metro/Tram tickets and were able to get around Prague very nicely using your book

W. L. Walters in Newark, De USA 06/13/2007

Best: Plitvice Lakes , Dubrovnik Walls, Budapest
Why: The lakes are gorgeous. I wish I had more than 3 hours to walk around there.

Dubrovnik's walls are amazing, capital-'A' although parts are a bit heady for poor me with vertigo.

I spent a week in Budapest, and wished I had spent twice as much time there. Despite frustrating monolingualism of bath-house and metro-staff, it's a wonderful, wonderful city. Easy to get around, plenty to do, lots of good food in great variety and cheap.

Worst: Trogir
Why: Waste of time really. I would spend no more than one day in Split/Trogir combined. Please note that due to roadworks connecting the two, it can take over an hour to travel 20km. Plitvice is a better destination, hands down.

Mike Williams in http://mikenbondi.blogspot.com, Australia 04/18/2007

Best: Auschwitz, Jewish Area in Krakow (Kazimierz), Schindler's Factory (Krakow)
Why: What can I say about Auschwitz that someone else hasn't said? It was very moving and is a must see.

The Jewish quarter, and particularly the old Jewish Cemetery in Kazimierz was really interesting and had a more authentic (less touristy) feel than the Jewish quarter in Prague.

We followed Rick's instructions to get to Schindler's factory and found it without difficulty. It was locked up and so we decided we would take a picture and leave. At that point, a door opened, a man came out and asked if we were there to see Schindler's factory. When we said "yes", he asked if we would like to go in. We replied "yes" again and he unlocked the gate, let us in, and told us there was a room up the stairs with a brief presentation about Schindler and the Jews of Krakow. Very interesting.

David Carter in Stillwater, OK USA 04/18/2007