Eastern Europe Guidebook
Favorite discoveries or tips:
open jaw tickets - my trip is kind of complicated. i need to be in brussels to start, but planned to fly from brussels to milan and go east from there on a rail pass. then i would have to get back to brussels to fly home. i had tried pricing my flight using one way trips and the cost was double what it would be to fly round trip. the incredibly simple suggestion of flying open jaw (i didnt even know this existed) gave me a flight that was FAR cheaper than i had gotten for a round trip. i am saving hundreds of dollars, not to mention precious time.
i also love love love love love the way the book is written. it feels like you are listening to a person talk and not reading a reference guide. just the diections for walking around are fantastic. rick steves tells you exactly which way to walk, which roads have a steep hill....how to go a block over and avoid it...exactly how to walk ("go left from the top of the escalator and turn right when you get outside") i mean this is so clearly laid out for you. it seems impossible to get lost looking for anything.
the only downside i can find in this book is that its SO helpful that i have no choice but to carry it with me and look like a tourist.
i am only on page 110 but im already in love.
jennifer in brooklyn, ny USA 02/01/2012
An excelllent splurge in Prague is La Degustation Restuarant at Hastelka 18 right next door to Hotel Hastel.
Judy Sepik in Forestville, CA USA 10/01/2011
I used your snapshot of Poland to plan my trip to Warsaw and Krakow. I found it very helpful and used it throughout my trip. It was a great help to me.
Patricia in Walenista, VA USA 10/01/2011
Great local bar in Kazimierz area of Krakow called Alchemia, Ul Estay5 (on the corner). Even have a non smoking room! Very cool atmosphere.
Linda in Holly, MI USA 09/20/2011
There is very little coverage on the Tatras in the guidebook. It is still possible to reach the tatras without a car. Budget airlines are a viable option. I took a flight from Ljubljana to Prague & then caught a flight from Prague to Slovakia-(poprad-tatry airport). I managed to find a family run tour company which also provided accomodation in their B&B. The accomodation was unbelievably cheap, at 15 euro perperson per night. The 3of us stayed in an apartment with 2 bedrooms, a bathroom, an attached kitchen & living room. Martinin & DOminic were excellent tour guides, driving us around to the various tour destinations in the Tatras region. We hiked in the Tatras & one less dangerous part of Slovak paradise. We also visited the Spiss castle-unesco world heritage site & ice cave-another unesco world heritage site. There was an openair museum in Slovakia, showcasing the life of the commoners in ancient days. DOminic & Martini also introduced their local customs to us.Doiminic's mum provided homecooked dinner for us as well--authentic Slovakian food. Pls visit their website at http://nadatours.com/
Tay Siew Hua in Singapore, Singapore 09/09/2011
These comments refer to the ISTANBUL guidebook only. The nitty-gritty information (opening/closing, how to get there, what it will cost, where to go if there are crowds, etc. what to not miss/what to skip) was really invaluable in planning my time in Istanbul.
Carol Sullivan in Mount Vernon, WA USA 08/24/2011
Let me start off my saying that we don't ever travel without you Rick!!! We love your guidebooks and enjoyed a fabulous and jam-packed 12 day vacation to Prague, Salzburg, the Wachau Valley, Vienna and Budapest. However, you don't have any info on the city of Salzburg. Although we didn't find much to do there - we went on a Panorama Tour - specifically the Sound of Music Tour. In all of my years traveling and all of the tours I've been on - this tour (which I thought would be overly kitschy and silly) was amazing. My husband even loved it. It was very well organized and the bus was clean and air-conditioned. After a quick tour of the city sites used while filming the movie - the bus takes you out to the picturesque mountain town of Mondsee (the church there was used in the filming of the movie). The lake region surrounding the city - "the hills" - are simply gorgeous. In addition - Peter - our tour guide was INCREDIBLE! This is a must see!! Here is a link to their site. http://www.panoramatours.com/ After Salzburg, we rented a car and drove out to the Wachau Valley. We stayed at an amazing small property called "Weinresidenz Sonnleitner". Chris Sonnleitner is the owner - and transformed a dilapidated set of buildings into a beautiful bed and breakfast. We stayed in the Ruby Penthouse - which was a pretty good deal at 195euro/night with a fantastic gourmet made-to-order breakfast. Our suite was huge - complete with mechanical blinds, a sauna, 2 person jacuzzi bathtub and a modern kitchen. The place was truly state of the art and as a winemaker himself - Chris produces his own wines, called 100% Sonnleitner. He works on the honor system. Your room is stocked with Sonnleitner wines and at the end of your stay you pay 3.50 euro for the # of glasses you drink. He has the same system in his wine room - which also stocks additional Austrian wines that you can drink anytime of day by the bottle or the glass. Here is a link to the site http://www.weinresidenz.at/. The regular rooms are significantly less expensive – and the rest of the experiences are the same. Also - we were in Budapest and discovered 3 new places that you should include in your book (PS - you were right about Spoon - we went for the view but the food was terrible). The first was mentioned in the recent NY Times Article "36 Hours in Budapest" and it's called Wine Kitchen or Borkonyha . It opened within the year and the food was incredible. I had the cod and my husband had the pork. It is on Sas Utca - here is a link to more info on it. http://www.chew.hu/first_taste_borkonyha_wine_kit.html. We also ate at a new restaurant called Tigris - which we found on our own. Aside from an impressive wine list of Hungarian wines – they specialize in goose liver. We had the sampler – and got to taste it a few different ways. The goose liver creme brulee might have been the most delicious thing I have ever eaten. They also have meat, fish, pork and poultry – plus the nicest and cleanest bathrooms I have been in throughout Europe. A link to their site http://www.tigrisrestaurant.hu/english. It is at 1501 Merleg Utca in Pest. After dinner, our fantastic waiter and the sommelier suggested a visit to their wine bar – around the corner – called DiVine. Polak David – the sommelier is super knowledgeable about all Hungarian wines and the outside seating area has an unbelievable view of the Basilica. It is literally right next to it in St. Stephen’s Square. Here is a link to more info. http://welovebudapest.com/en/cafes-bars/divino
Pamela Mohr in New York, NY USA 08/17/2011
In short, everything. I bought this book for a quick month in mostly Eastern Europe, and it was fabulous. I read every chapter before visiting a new city, and I really enjoyed the detailed step by step directions to places. About three weeks into travelling, I lost my book in Prague. I felt lost for the last week in Eastern Europe. My next stop was Rome, and the first thing I did was pick up the Rome pocket guide for my four days there. I researched guidebooks quite a bit beforehand, and I am beyond satisfied with my choice. It will be the first thing I buy for my next European adventure!
Bri Morris in Little Rock, AR USA 08/15/2011
Krakow:
1) We hired Marta Chmielowska's husband "Chester" for the day. He picked us up @ 07:50, then drove us first to the Wieliczka Salt Mine (the three of us were the only ones on this early English tour. We stumbled on a Mass being conducted in the Chapel of St. Kinga!), then on to Auschwitz-Birkennau. By hiring him for 400 zl for the three of us, we took out all of the uncertainties of the day and got us back by 18:00-18:30!!
2) We called the Jarden Bookshop and arranged an English-speaking guide, Bart. He took us through a bunch of synogogues and got us the the Schindler Factory, but he was a bit detailed & verbose. Probably worth it....
Larry Iversen in Bremerton, WA USA 07/03/2011
Dubrovnik: 1) The jewery shop in the bottom of the Bell Tower is run by Rudy & his brother with excellent locally made products. 2) Lady Pi-Pi's resturant was great!
Larry Iversen in Bremerton, USA 06/27/2011
Consider adding a restaurant to your Mostar chapter under "Away from the Old Bridge": Restorvan Sadrvan, Jusovina 11, Stari grad (between the Motel Emen & the Old Bridge), tel/fax: 036 579 057, www.restoransadrvan.ba, their National Plate is great!
Larry Iversen in Bremerton, WA USA 06/12/2011
I think there is nothing new. But it would be nice to hear something like a better world order and world's economy. So that people can travel more.
Dragan in Korcula, Croatia 02/09/2011
I really enjoyed the book on Croatia and Slovenia. I am going to visit places that I had no intention to go to before. Want to do a road trip from Viena to Mostar? Anay suggestions?
Elna Vermaak in Pretoria, South Africa 02/02/2011
Ear plugs and sleep mask good for bus riders. Sometimes there are no stops for food or bathroom so plan carefully for a 4 hour trip. Most grocery stores are closed on Sun. A passport check is done between Croatia and Slovenia on the coast. Be careful to take the local train to the airport in Vienna and not the CAT to save money. Fish and meat is sold by the kg. in restaurants. Ask what a portion weighs/costs. Don't let the restaurant select your dinner for you. Always ask to see the menu or you'll get way too much food at a high price. Zagreb the trams are free near the city, but in Rijeka they check for tickets on the bus.
Judy Kropp in Oakdale, CA USA 12/04/2010
Apostila Caffe behind the Tyn Church in the Ungelt in Prague. Tynska ulicka 2/628, 110 00 Praha 1 Phone +420 224 828 888 www.apostila-prague.cz e-mail apostila@email.cz very filling and very good food-would have gone again the next day. Grosseto Ristorante Marina on the water's embankment in Prague, Czech Republic Alšovo náb?., Prague 1 Phone: (+420) 605 454 020 Metro: Starom?stská (line A) Tram: Starom?stská (18, 22)
Debbie Dalin in Delray Beach, FL USA 10/24/2010
I just happened to spend a day in Belgrade, Serbia on my way to Thessaloniki. It's a fantastic city that hasn't become tourist-focused yet. In fact, I couldn't find a single post card in the entire city! This would be a gem to add to a future guidebook!
Donald Snider in Sherwood Park, AB Canada 10/19/2010
Your Easterb European book has been really helpful! Here is something useful to add. The book says doing laundry in Krakow can be frustrating. I found a self-serve laundromat in the downstairs cafe at the Globus Rooms & Apartments. This is on the corner of Starowislna and Dielta. The laundromat can also be accessed from the street -- a sign for francia cafe which also has the laundromat sign leads you down a flight of stairs from the street into the cafe with laundry facilities in a side room. It is open 10:30 to midnight. The Allianz Bank is on the corner as a landmark. Globus is marked by a non-descript sign on the door. This is also a very nice and affordale hotel, directly between the old town and Kazimierz. It is an easy 5-10 minute walk from either area of Krakow.
Steven Levitt in San Antnonio, TX USA 10/03/2010
Your Easterb European book has been really helpful! Here is something useful to add. The book says doing laundry in Krakow can be frustrating. I found a self-serve laundromat in the downstairs cafe at the Globus Rooms & Apartments. This is on the corner of Starowislna and Dielta. The laundromat can also be accessed from the street -- a sign for francia cafe which also has the laundromat sign leads you down a flight of stairs from the street into the cafe with laundry facilities in a side room. It is open 10:30 to midnight. The Allianz Bank is on the corner as a landmark. Globus is marked by a non-descript sign on the door. This is also a very nice and affordale hotel, directly between the old town and Kazimierz. It is an easy 5-10 minute walk from either area of Krakow.
Steven Levitt in San Antnonio, TX USA 10/03/2010
The Oskar Schindler Museum in Krakow is a must. It opened in 2010 and provides an excellent overview of life in Krakow for the community,the Jewish Community and the non-Jewish community. There are taped interviews with former Schindler workers, exhibits that make you feel like you are living in that time. I recommend this before going to Auschwitz as it creates a contest that prepares you for what you see there. We followed walking directions, but there must be a public transportation option as there's a regional transit stop within 1/2 block of the museum. This museum is a min of 3 hours. There's a nice cafe for snacks.
Liz Bowermaster in Urbana, Il USA 09/18/2010
Border crossing between Croatia and Slovenia - not all routes open. Didn't see this in our Steve's "Eastern Europe Guidebook," but not all border crossings are open to anyone. We drove from Motovun towards Bled via the GPS route (pretty much due north of Motovun on secondary roads) and found ourself at a "locals only" border crossing. The guard was helpful (got us a map) and we headed for one of the "open for anyone" crossings. I'm guessing this was close to an hour of wasted driving but scenic...just chalked it up to experience. Checked google maps on return and it looks like they send you on the same route.
I could not find a decent flight connection to Praha from Stuttgart, so we took the DB train to Nuremberg, then the DB bus to Praha. The bus was incredibly nice - maybe better than the train (decent seats, host walking aisles for drink purchases, etc.). This was unexpected. Also, stopover time (1.5 hrs) was perfect to get lunch in Nuremberg.
Brian in Böblingen, Germany 09/08/2010
Amazing restaurant in Prague: U Medvidku (also have great beer) Don't forget absinthe bars!! We went to one just to try it and it was like drinking hot licorice.
Carrie in St. Paul, MN United States 08/31/2010
Guidebook has accurate & great info. It is very heavy to carry around. Would like it to be in separate sections, so I could take only the country needed. Thank you
Pat in Saratoga Springs, NY USA 07/19/2010
Something to do in Eger: from the Tourist Information office, you can get a wine passport (Bor-utlevel) for 3,000 forints. It lists several wine cellars--in Eger, in the "Nice Woman Valley", and out in the countryside. If you visit 15 (and get them each to stamp your book), you get a free gift from the TI office--it looked like a wine goblet. It would be difficult for people who are just passing through to visit 15, since most seem to be out in the countryside, but the passport is good for 3 years, and it creates a fun little quest. One glitch, though: either it's new or it hasn't been advertised very well (or both), because a couple of the cellars listed in the passport seemed unfamiliar with it when I visited, even after I showed them their names printed in the booklet.
Denise Egri in Corvallis, OR USA 07/13/2010
Romania: Like many rural but developing countries, Romania is not Bucharest. After spending two weeks in June 2010 traveling through Romania, mostly through Transylvania and Bucovina (and only one night in Bucharest) I must encourage the adventurous traveler to consider a trip out in the country to meet the people of Romania and the land that is a trip back in time from 100 years ago to 1000 years ago. The monasteries and castles are incredible treasures waiting for you to discover, and to modern eyes, to see hand-hewn wooden carts full of hay pulled by a work horse, or farmers using a scythe to cut the hay in the fields, is to look back in time. Traveling in Romania is 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of Western Europe, and four star hotels and restaurants are affordable and a delightful experience. My best recommendation is to hire a car and a driver and relax on your itinerary...the truly adventurous who rent their own car and try to follow maps and signs in Romania, will come to see that "Vulcanizare" is one of the biggest businesses in each town- tire repair!
Amy M. in Boulder, CO USA 07/07/2010
I planned a trip to Central Europe and used EurAide for ttrain reservations. I could not be more pleased! All train tickets and reservations went off without a hitch. Karen was so helpful making the plans and advising on times & trains!
Ace Evans in Sammamish, Wa USA 06/27/2010
We love your books and use them for all of our trips. We just got back from two weeks in Eastern Europe, and found the 2010 Eastern Europe book to be excellent. We just found one area that needs updating (see below).
Chris in Minneapolis, MN USA 06/10/2010
E-mail address provide below.
Luis Vazquez in Houston, TX USA 05/23/2010
Just back from Poland and loved both Warsaw and Krakow. Arrived a week after the memorial services, funerals etc from the tragic plane crash so saw lots of reminders of that. Also saw things related to the 1940 massacre by the Soviet soldiers near Katyn.
Judy in Alexandria, MN USA 05/19/2010
In Prague's Little Quarter, we stopped by the Church of St. Mary the Victorious, which houses the famous Infant of Prague sculpture. We were on our way somewhere else and just planned to stop by for five minutes, but we ended up really enjoying our visit (and its free bathroom--haha!). Because so many visitors come to see the Infant, especially from Spanish-speaking countries, the sacristy of the church had a rack full of prayers to the Infant in what must have been 50 different languages. There were also display cases full of nativity scenes from all over the world, no doubt brought there by travelers. But my favorite part of those back rooms were the displays about the church's overseas missions. Once we got past all the crowds, it was fascinating to see that this was an actual functioning church doing good works all over the planet. They even had little artifacts and sculptures from the various mission sites. We came to see the Infant of Prague, but it was the sacristy that was really enchanting!
Lori in Mannheim, Germany 04/11/2010
I would include Romania. We went on a local tour with Sorin Crupa of Velvet Tours. He was very similar to the other Rick Steves Guides we have used. Funny, lovable, knowledgeable and very organized in a flexible manner. I would love to go again on a RS tour with him as the guide. The people are great, the shopping is fun, and the sights are amazing.
Gary Franks in Sugar Land, TX USA 04/05/2010
Cafe Alibi, Egyetem tér 4, 1053 Budapest, Hungary; phone 06 1 317-4209. Its formal address notwithstanding, Cafe Alibi (owned by affable Attila) is actually at the northern end of Szerb utca, about 3 blocks from Hotel Peregrinus, where we stayed March 15-18 (listed in the 2009 Eastern Europe Guide; Attila runs the breakfast bar there too). Delicious and voluminous dinner entres run Ft 1600-1900 ($8.25-$9.75), considerably less than on Budapest's ultra-touristy "eat street", Ráday utca, 3 blocks South and East of Alibi, across Kálvin tér.
Jack in Brondum, MN USA 03/29/2010
Before leaving home, we purchased phone cards on-line from www.speedypin.com usable in Hungary, Austria, and Czech Republic. The $11 minimum purchase provides 5 cards, each with $2 of minutes. Actually, instead of physical cards, the company provides PIN numbers and toll-free phone numbers for each country of origin. The cost per minute varied from 10-12 U.S. cents per minute in Budapest and Vienna to 38 cents in Prague. We'll use any remaining balance on a card for calls back in the U.S.
Don Wilson in Cincinnati, Oh USA 10/25/2009
As someone else noted previously it is not that hard to get to Memento Park by public transport. However, it is NOT as indicated on the Memento Park info flyer. Yes you take tram number 49 to Kosztolanyi Dezso Ter as stated. But bus number 150 does NOT leave from in front of building number 9 on Kosztolany Dezso Ter. It now leaves from in front of building number 31 on Bocskai Ut. If you do a google map search of Kosztolany Dezso Ter, Budapest before you leave, you can easily see where Bocskai Ut is in relation ship to that. A possible tricky part is knowing when to get off. Look at the bus stop sign for bus number 150. Note the earlier stops. and that it says how many minutes to Memento Park (I think it was 23). Our bus had a digital read out showing the stops which made it much easier. Our bus back didn't which wasn't a problem because at that point we knew where to get off. But, had we had that bus on the way out, it might have been harder. Be sure to tell the bus driver you want off at Memento Park. Our driver indicated the stop when we got there. And pointed us all in the right direction when we got off the bus. Before you walk over to the park you may want to cross the street and see what time the buses run for the return so you can plan accordingly. They were pretty timely. and if you bought the bus pass it works all the way out. This little adventure was probably one of our highlights of the trip.
Shirley Fleig in san Diego, cA USA 10/12/2009
Folkart Craftsman's House, 1052 Regiposta (just of Vaci Utca) in Budapest was a welcome respite of genuine Hungarian-made articles after the previously noted tourist dreck on Vaci Utca and in the market. Open 10:00 am to 5:00 p.m. Mon - Sat
Shirley Fleig in San Diego, CA USA 10/12/2009
Soul Cafe and Restaurant (1092 Budapest, Raday utca 11-13) was incredible. The place was packed yet serivce and food were outstanding. Very nice atmosphere and the price was very reasonable considering the high quality. Definately recommend it.
J. Briggs in Seattle, WA USA 10/10/2009
Personally, two years ago I enjoyed Pilsn in the Czech Republic and stayed a couple nights at the old Hotel Continental - quite old but some rooms very elegantly refurbished and not that expensive.
I just got back (Sept 29, 2009) from wandering in Croatia, Poland, Slovakia and Hungary. Croatia has some interesting areas generally undiscovered by those who go just for the coastline. Budapest is awesome ... but no longer cheap. Krakow is interesting and easy to walk around in the old city. My off the beaten path discovery was Nitra, Slovakia, where I went this year mostly because Bratislava two years ago seemed like a high priced boom town with poor quality (legacy of Soviet era) hotels and services, though some nice people. Nitra is a cheap train ride about an hour or two (depending on train or bus) east of Bratislava and located about where the low mountains/hills end and flat farmland begins. I stayed at the Hotel City Center which ... in the center of the city ... overlooks the town square. The hotel is on three floors above some stores and the entrance is on the back side by the drive through passage. With the economic downturn there was no problem getting a spacious deluxe room with better features (even remote control, good air-conditioning and DVD player) that cost less than a bland room in Bratislava. Here again, the people were very nice. It's sort of an ordinary town, compared to Prague or Vienna or Budapest, but good for a comfortable rest between larger cities.
Steve in Bozeman, MT USA 10/05/2009
The Hotel Central at Rybna 8 in Prague was outstanding. Clean, large modern rooms, very friendly & helpful staff (it's family owned, I believe), close to Old Town Square & the Metro at Namesti Republiky, and they have a lift. They serve a great breakfast buffet, also. Very reasonably priced; a good value.
Ash Morris in Tulsa, OK USA 10/03/2009
We visited both Szechenyi baths and Rudas baths in Budapest, and I highly recommend both. Rudas doesn't look like much from the outside, but it was recently renovated, and it's gorgeous inside. It has a greater range of pool temperatures than Szechenyi, both hotter and colder, as well as a three-step steam room, which goes from 40 degrees C to 70 degrees C. Highly recommended.
Kurt in New York City, NY USA 09/30/2009
I'm writing this from Krakow. Be careful when changing money in the old town. There are two scams we observed. At one bureau du change, the rate was 2.87 zl for a dollar, a very good rate. But peeking out behind the first 2 was another 2, barely visible, and the person at the counter paid out 2.28, about 25% below the going rate. We caught on and got our money back. Use a bureau du change with a digital display to avoid this scam. A second scam catches those who aren't paying close attention. If the going rate that day is 2.72, they offer 2.27. They only need a few people who aren't paying attention to make a tidy profit. Use caution.
Kurt in New York City, NY USA 09/30/2009
We took a 6 hour private tour of Prague through Praguewalker with Irena Horakova - the tour was fabulous and all 4 of us thought it was money very well spent. We also took the Terezin tour through Wittmann tours with Pavel Stansky. There were 11 of us on this tour. Pavel was sent to Terezin in 1941 at age 20 and to have him as our tour guide was truly an honor. This tour was the most memorial tour I have ever been on. I would highly recommend both of these tours.
L.A. Meharry in Vancouver, WA USA 09/21/2009
Practically every tip given by the guidebook was excellent. The guidebook saved us time & money, and allowed us to really get to know each country and city we visited. We didn't go anywhere or do anything without first checking to see what Rick Steves advised or what he thought of something. We pretty much ate based on his suggestions, and decided what sites were worth paying for based on his suggestions. AMAZING!!! Favorite discoveries: Chimera in Krakow, city of Mostar, how to see the Opera in Vienna (for 3 Euros!!!), and Cesky Krumlov
Also, in general we appreciated the overviews of each country/city, the self-guided tours, and all advice about what was worth paying for and what really wasn't.
Amy Tedoff in Colts Neck, NJ USA 07/12/2009
In Budapest, we found that gift prices on some items at Memento Park (Statue Park) are much higher than at the House of Terror. A Lenin candle cost us roughly three times more at Memento Park than what we later saw it being sold for at the House of Terror.
Jack Martin in Lawrence, KS USA 06/28/2009
The Budapest card might have been an excellent convenience at one time, but presently at 7500 ft for three days and particularly 6300 ft for two days it is a very poor value. Transportation day passes run only 1500 ft and the museum discounts would keep you running at a breakneck pace to make up the difference. Contrast the excellent Ljubljana pass at only 11 Euros for three days including full museum entries.
Chuck Burton in Steilacoom, WA USA 06/19/2009
All of these notes are for Prague: 1. U Zavoje is a fantastic wine bar with Czech wine. It's on Havelska 25/500 (www.uzavoje.cz). 2. A local recommended the u Sadlu restaurant and we liked it a lot. It has great medieval decorations with traditional and light food and few tourists. It's on Klimentska street. 3. We recommend the Svejk restaurant. It's cute and good with traditional and light food (120-250 Kc / plate). It's at the corner of Siroka and Panska. 4. The Grand Hotal Praha in Old Town Square is a bakey with lots of homemade Italian cakes that are to die for. 5. I recommend the bread goulash at Restaurace Mlejnice. It's fun and delicious.
We love your books and never leave the hotel without them!
Mark McKnight in Austin, TX USA 05/06/2009
Visiting the Szechenyi Baths in Budapest is not to be missed.
Janet in Valley Forge, PA USA 01/15/2009
Eating on the Buda side and closest to B&B Bellevue(not in Rick Steves 2008 Travel Book):
Hunyadi Restaurant serves very good Hungarian food. It is about three blocks down from B&B Bellevue, located on Hunyadi Janos ut. Walk back downhill past the #16 Donati utca bus stop. Szabo Ilonka utca forks into Hunyadi Janos ut. This is the restaurant Judit and Lajos recommended on our first night in Budapest. I had the excellent Paprika chicken and my husband ordered the Paprika fish. We ran into two other guests of B&B Bellevue there. I highly recommend eating here at least once. Credit cards accepted. Coyote Café & Deli, nestled on a side street below the castle and next to the Batthyány Market Hall (Spar Supermarket) is a new squeaky clean American style coffee shop started by a couple who lived for eight years in the U.S. Everything they served is made fresh daily. They serve light sandwiches, particularly good was their French style tuna sandwich, and light fluffy cakes. Of course, the coffee was good too. Coyote Café & Deli is located on the corner of Iskola utca and Markovits Ivan utca. Vigado Restaurant, next door to Coyote Café and Deli, is a very good restaurant serving good Hungarian food to local business customers. I thought the fish soup was excellent, no bones. Better than the more fancy restaurants. Vigado is located on Markovits Ivan utca, on the same side as St. Anne’s Church and next to Spar Supermarket. Dunaparti Matroz Kocsma (DMK), for a romantic dinner I recommend this restaurant which is located on Halasz u, 1, between FO utca and Bem rakpart. It serves good fish dishes. I found it a little too fancy and not as good as Vigado, but it has a great location overlooking the Chain Bridge, the Danube and Pest. Try to get a window seat to better enjoy the view. The friendly staff spoke fluent English. Credit cards accepted.
Ferenczy Museum - Margit Kovacs in Szentendre (near Budapest). It was a slow train ride, approximately 50 minutes but pleasant ride, described by a local “a very typical small Hungarian town.” We went to see Margit Kovacs’ (1902-1977) ceramic artwork. Make sure you take the tunnel from the train station into the Centrum (Center) of town. Tickets for the museum must be purchased at their gift shop next to the church and before you get to Ferenczy Museum - Margit Kovacs, a small but art filled museum. It is located at 2000 Szentendre, Vastagh Gyorgy utca 1.
Great Restaurant and Café on Pest side: New York Kavehaz, this wonderfully restored coffee house, with its opulent neo-baroque interior is a must see for any traveler to Budapest. New York Kavehaz is annexed to the five star New York Palace Hotel located at VII, Erzebet korut 9-11, Metro: M2 Astoria.
Lorraine Chatham in San Francisco, CA USA 01/08/2009