Spain 2013 Guidebook
Favorite discoveries or tips:
Mijas is an extremely beautiul, interesting and touristy friendly town.
Richard & Barbara Hall in Wingham, On Canada 06/06/2013
Maybe -- I had the 2012 edition and you may already have this: Madrid Food Tours. They have an excellent range of offerings, such as a gourmet tour, a couple of market tasting tours, bizarre foods tour, taverns and history tour, etc. We took a market tasting tour with 10 tastings (15 tastings was available but I'm only 5'2"!) and it was AWESOME. Our guide, Lauren, was with us for 3 hours and was very personable and gave us just the right amount of history and cultural info about the food we sampled. The tours are adaptable for special dietary requests, such as vegetarian or alcohol-free. A favorite part of our tour was a stop in Museo del Aceite for an educational comparative olive-oil tasting with the owner, Fernanda. It was a highlight of a very special experience. And the price was very reasonable!
Norma Schmidt in Fairfield, CT USA 06/03/2013
We though the late dinner times would be a problem but between the availability of tapas everywhere all the time and the sun not setting till around 10pm we had no issue eating dinner at 8:30 or so. Since the table is generally yours for the night there is no rush.
I booked the AVE train from Madrid to Seville and the Altaria train from Granada to Seville about 2 months before our travel dates on Renfe.com at more than a 50% discount. It is worth it to pre-book if you know when you want to travel. It was easy to book and pay online.
Laurie in Martinez, CA USA 05/26/2013
I know this book is generally for people travelling on their own. However, we take tours and use it to find the best things to do during our free time or at the beginning and end of the tour. It was great.
Jo Merrill in Johns Island, SC USA 05/16/2013
In Seville the restoration work on the Plaza de Espana and Spanish Pavilion has been completed, and it’s certainly worth the short walk from the Alcazar / cathedral to admire the beautiful tile work on the west side of the Pavillion and on the bridges over a canal. Continue through the park past fountains and gardens to see the architecture of museum buildings at the south end of the park. Also, the RS-recommended flamenco in Seville, Auditorio Alvarez Quintero, seems to have a branch in Granada, just off Plz Nueva on Cuesta Gomerez 11 (the street leading to the Alhambra). We saw both excellent shows in April---same manager, same female dancer, same guitarist, even the same price.
Marian Mimi Allender in Kirkland, WA USA 05/10/2013
Cadiz is a wonderful experience. It is not over run with too many tourists and groups and is a laid back appealing city. I hesitate to suggest including it as aprt of its appeal was the smaller number of visitors. But we shouldn't be selfish. Cafe San Francisco was a particularly wonderful discovery. We wiled away hours on their patio, watching families, pensioners, hanging out together......
Niki Guner in Toronto, On Canada 04/29/2013
Restaurants in Ronda
Jon Lowrey in Stuttgart, AE USA/Germany 04/09/2013
The Route from Arcos to Ronda. We drove directly through the national Forrest and visited Zahara and Barzelema and we loved the route and the two hill towns....scenery was stunning from our little rental car.
Jon Lowrey in Stuttgart (military), AE USA/Germany 04/08/2013
Our favorite day in Barcelona started by heading up to Montjuic. Nice time at Miro Museum. Then we walked to the teleferico del puerto for a beautiful ride down to the port. From there a walk along the beach and a stop for drinks and a snack. Easy to catch a taxi or take the Metro back to your hotel and get ready for dinner.
Liz Phelps in San Francisco, Ca USA 03/07/2013
1. As mentioned by Rick bars in Spain are the THE place to go for drink, food, rest, restrooms, conversation, etc. The are not at all like US bars but are social centers for the neighborhood. With few exceptions we had coffee and breakfast in a bar near the hotel rather than the pricey buffets in the hotels. We made great bar friends with the gregarious Spaniards in Madrid and Andalucia. 2. Hotel Polo in Ronda is near (a) the bull ring, (b) a block from multi level underground parking garage below a beautiful plaza, and (c) you pass an ATM between the hotel and the plaza. 3. You usually do recommend this type of hotel but the Holiday Inn Pyrmedes just south of the La Latina area in Madrid is roomy and modern. From the from door it is just about 30 seconds from Metro, Light Rail, and north/south city bus, neighborhood bar, and about three minutes to freeway access. The in hotel car parking has 100 spaces. It has all the charm of a business hotel and the front desk staff do not speak basic English. Oh!-- the metro and lisht rail have elevator access down the the next level where you can use escalator down to lower levels. The staff at the hotel for the most part had a poor grasp of English. 4. I found the grasp of basic English to be lame for a country that hosts about 50 million guests a year. 5. Spaniards are great people -- many wonderful personal experiences.
Don Hall in San Antonio, TX USA 02/17/2013
I’d like to highlight one of the hidden gems of Seville: a new flamenco stage called Esencia. Esencia is a small and warm theatre, beautifully located in a renovated 19th century Bodega (wine cellar). The best established flamenco artists of Seville perform here (their program is full of big names), together with rising stars. The performances are overwhelming - you really experience flamenco the way it is intended: up close and unplugged! The two ladies who own the place personally welcome you with a good glass of wine and excellent tapas – and it is this informal setting, personal service and attention for quality that makes Esencia different from the more mass-tourism focused ‘flamenco tablaos’. They are open every friday, the performance starts at 20:45h. See www.FlamencoEsencia.com.
Maria in Seville, Spain 02/17/2013
Dar JAND in Tangier.
Mark Mitchell in Burbank, CA USA 01/27/2013
If you are traveling to Seville do not miss the Espacio Metropal Parasol This modern waffle like structure gives the visitor a 360 degree view of the city. Do not be afraid of visiting Spain because of what we are hearing about their unemployment and general economy. We spent five nights in Madrid and found the restaurants full with well dressed and mannered Madrianos(sic). Throughout Spain we witnesses no riots nor loud protests.
Jon Stephens in Foster City, CA USA 01/24/2013
Christmas mass at the cathedral in Madrid. Celebrated by the Cardinal and included kissing a statue of baby Jesus. Concepcion's tour of Seville included a stop at a huge indoor holiday creche and chocolate scene that was also quite large.
John Gannon in WESTLAKE, TX USA 01/04/2013
Forgot to mention this one:
Regarding the inevitable overcharging by some cab drivers, if you feel you're being overcharged, ask the driver for a receipt indicating your starting point and destination and fare. That may embarrass him. Another thing to try, if your destination is a hotel, would be to ask the hotel staff to intervene on your behalf. They've got more to gain from being helpful and fair to you than the cab driver does!
James Royle in San Diego, CA USA 01/02/2013
In Sevilla, I stayed two nights at the Hotel Cervantes (a Best Western) at Cervantes 10. While it is a longer walk from places like the Cathedral, Sevilla is a city that rewards walkers. And rather than walk to the tourist area for dinners, I took the short walk a few blocks in the other direction, to the Alameda de Hercules, around which are numerous places for tapas and dining.
Regarding traveling with suitcases on the Madrid Metro, while there are stairs to be negotiated there are also elevators.
For convenience on my first and last nights in Spain, I stayed near the Madrid airport, in Hotel Villas de Barajas (a Best Western). It has a free shuttle to and from the airport. My rooms (singles) were small but very clean and modern, and a full breakfast is included. A Metro stop is a short walk away. The first day, I scouted my route, including stairs and elevators, to my hotel in the pedestrian area between Puerta del Sol and Plaza Callao for the next day.
For travel by bus from Tarifa to La Linea, don't buy a round trip. It commits you to taking the through bus on the way back. Your return through ticket will not be accepted to make the trip with a change in Algeciras. In short, you may lose flexibility, and several euros, on your return trip.
James Royle in San Diego, CA USA 01/02/2013
See the Palacio Nazaries twice - get the night ticket, and a general daytime ticket for the next day. That way, you can see how it changes in different light.
Heather Payne in Chapel Hill, NC USA 12/14/2012
"Flamenco en Vivo" in Barcelona was quite good. 20E and one drink included. The stage is a little rustic, but I liked the atmosphere and it was a small crowd. http://www.palaudalmases.com/biography.htm
Outside of the big cities at some restaurants you get wine included with the meal. It is often the entire bottle. It is like water in Spain.
Mike Parker in Iowa City, Ia USA 12/05/2012
Barcelona Restaurant: El Bastio Blasgrana- Xaica near Hosteria Grau (in your book) provides a great English breakfast for 4,10euro.
Mary Bruce in Surrey, BC Canada 12/02/2012
I stayed at a small hotel called Can Misse in Collbato, which was close to Montserrat and right on the highway west of Barcelona. It is in a small town right up against the mountain and about 15 minutes from Monserrat via a high road or a low road. The hotel has nice rooms and is in a beautiful old town. They had a good restaurant that served excellent three course menus for around 15 Euros, including a bottle of house wine. I thought this was an excellent alternative to staying in Barcelona if you want to see Monserrat or staying right near Monserrat in less interesting places. This seemed like the back door kind of place that Rick has recommended in my many trips to Europe. We also took an interesting tour of a cava winery that was not too far from the hotel. At least one of the cava wineries can be reached by train from Barcelona. The tour and tastings were interesting and fun.
Jim Perschbacher in Mableton, GA USA 12/02/2012
Your 2012 Spain guidebook was such a WONDERFUL tour guide for our travels through Andalucia earlier this month: Sevilla --> Arcos --> Ronda --> Zahara --> Grazalema --> Nerja --> Granada --> Madrid. We covered much ground by car and rail over a week's time, so we were really grateful for your guidance to the key points of interest.
David in Baltimore, MD USA 11/25/2012
We discovered a wonderful restaurant near the Prado called Miranda's. On Calle Heurtes(sp?) EXcellent food and nice waiter with helpful descriptions.
Recommended to us by a woman who said we could not go wrong "with any restaurant on this street."
Mary Varese in Madison, WI USA 10/30/2012
Please add Cadiz--we had a wonderful time exploring this compact and interesting city. The view from the Cathedral tower is the best!
Lorna Naegele in Grand Junction, Co USA 10/24/2012
We had a very informative walking tour on the Spanish Civil War in Barcelona, by Nick, a British historian. He used photos and recordings to liven the topics. http://iberianature.com/barcelona/history-of-barcelona/spanish-civil-war-tour-in-barcelona/
We had an outstanding guide in Sevilla, Alvaro Carmona, who took us on a private tour of the White Hill Towns. He is a certified guide in Sevilla, Granada, Cordoba, and Cadiz--and his knowledge is extensive and accessible. Prior to the tour, he was kind to provide restaurant and sightseeing suggestions, including the hand-painted tile factories that I specifically asked about. He is personable, friendly, and a very good driver! I think any tour with him would be valuable, and with his experience, Alvaro is more than capable of putting together a custom tour for any interest, whether a walking or a driving tour. +34 6292 55650 or info@monumental.es. www.monumental.es.
Paula in Seattle, WA USA 10/19/2012
We found a small, quiet fantastic restaurant with marvelous food and great service within 5 or 6 blocks of Plaza Catalunya named L'Antic Forn on Pinto Fortnuy, 28. We hope that you can consider trying it and including in future guides. It was one of the best meals we had in our 3 weeks in Spain
Gordon Isakson in Sacramento, CA USA 10/18/2012
Hicuri Veggie Restaurant, Granada (Calle Santa Escolastica, Esquina Plaza Girones 4) also for vegetarian options and speak English - Muglia Restaurant, Granada (http://www.restaurantemuglia.com/direccion.htm)
Kate Vogt in Mill Valley, CA USA 10/08/2012
Sesamo restaurant in Barcelona--the best vegetarian we have ever had! Good for carnivores, too, and a great value!
Gina Espinosa in San Diego, CA USA 10/07/2012
The Bellas Artes building on calle Alcala. For 3 Euros per person you can go up to the roof-deck and get spectacular views of Madrid in every direction. There is a small cafe/bar up there. Ride the elevator up, but take the stairs down from the fifth floor or so to get the full impact of this art deco building There is an elegant bar/restaurant on the ground floor that's worth popping into for a drink. Our friend who lives in Madrid took us to a "bull-fighting restaurant". It's the equivalent of a sports bar, but only for bull-fighting: mounted bull heads on the walls, giant TV with bull-fights showing, all kinds of bull-fight paraphenalia around the restaurant. This was one way to experience the bull-fighting culture without actually going to a corrida. It was quite as gruesome as we expected (maybe more so), but definitely a cultural experience. Unfortunately, I don't rememberr the name of the place but I'm sure you guys can figure it out. There are probably more than one of these. Our friend also took us to the Cerveceria Alemana where Hemingway like to go. This place would be worth mentioning in the guide for Hemingway lovers. It's neat to see his table, just as it was when he frequented the place.
Carole in Syracuse, NY USA 10/06/2012
Zahara de la Sierra: Restaurant/Meson Los Estribos. Located just past the sign for the walk up to the castle, 689-673-182 (proprietor Manuel Tardio Leon), great restaurant worthy of mention. Didn't stay there but had lunch after the hike to the ruins: affordable, spotless, spills charm with a view that commands the reservoir and absolutely excellent menu of the day. Great place to take a deep breath after puffing up and down the hill, especially if you missed the trail up and walked around the entire thing ahead of time.
Leaf Schumann in Deming , WA USA 10/05/2012
A favorite restaurant in Segovia: El Fogon Sefardi, in the Jewish quarter of Segovia. Very gracious service; some of the best food I have eaten in twelve trips to Spain; something as simple as a cheese tray was to drool over. They accomodated our group of 6 with no trouble, even though the restuarant is small. Highly recommended.
Elizabeth S. Boyce in West Linn, OR USA 10/04/2012
Hi Is there any reason this book does not cover Valencia? Is it worth visiting?
Mel in Sydney, NS Australia 10/01/2012
An excellent Italian restaurant in the Eixample is Via Dei Mille. We had lunch here our first day and dinner on our second day, the night before our cruise. Everything was superb and prices are reasonable. Friendly staff.
Jodi in Copeland, PA USA 09/30/2012
If you are planning to visit Tangier, definitely have a guide. Aziz Begdouri, who is recommended in your Guidebook, is a wonderful guide! He is extremely knowledgeable and personable. Our group of four were all thrilled with him - he is the gold standard for guides in Tangier. Our second day in Tangier, we did not have a guide, and we definitely missed him. We were pestered constantly, which never happened when we were with Aziz. I also recommend the all day tour. Aziz took us to many sites in this large city that we would never have seen with the walking tour of the central city.
Shirley Schellentrager in Chardon, OH USA 07/29/2012
Hello, I recently spent some time in Barcelona and we traveled with your book, it was an excellent resource.
Can I please suggest that you include the following Flamenco / Opera Show under entertainment:
Barcelona y Flamenco: Teatre Poliorama, La Rambla 115. and Palau de la Musica Catalana C.Palau de la Musica 4/6
This was an excellent show cost 30E - 45E Tickets can be obtained through hotels, the tourism office and on line www.palaumusica.org. tel+34 902 442 882
Thank you, Pauline Eade-Sheppard, California
Pauline Eade-Sheppard in Long Beach, CA USA 07/26/2012
Rick's advice on using phones in Spain is right on. Phone cards are much less expensive to use than cell phones (unless your cell phone can switch out the SIM chip), but not as convenient (finding a pay phone or locutorio is not always easy). If avoidable, do not use cash in the pay phones. There is a minimum per call charge (which can start adding up) and the phone will eat up the coins if there is even the slightest hint of a connection (whether or not you got to speak with anyone at all).
Julian Zepeda in San Francisco, CA USA 07/25/2012
When leaving from Bilbao's airport, please be aware that it closes up tight at night depending on the flight schedule. We had a departing flight at 6:45 AM, so we arrived very early to check in and clear security, etc., only to find the airport closed. We were not alone, and it was rather chilly waiting outside until they opened. It seemed silly to us that they could not keep at least some small area available as a waiting room.
Julian Zepeda and Eliana Hernandez in San Francisco, CA USA 07/25/2012
When in San Sebastian and traveling by bus out of the Amara "bus station," PLEASE follow Rick's advice and purchase your tickets a day in advance, if possible. We didn't (the person at the TI erroneously told us we could buy the ticket from the driver) and arrived at Amara on a rainy morning to a crowded, ill-sheltered parking lot where we missed our original bus (didn't have a prior-purchase ticket), missed the second bus (the driver couldn't get in, so left from outside), and ended up paying almost twice as much to catch a later direct bus. Almost ruined an otherwise enjoyable in San Sebastian.
Julian Zepeda and Eliana Hernandez in San Francisco, CA USA 07/25/2012
Valencia, which is not included in your book, has an excellent little sandwich shop just a block from the beach. It's called "Bodego La Pascuala." The place was filled with locals enjoying wine, beer, olives, and sandwiches at 9am on a Friday morning, which we found delightful. The staff was tremendously helpful and kind, even with out limited Spanish-speaking ability. They serve an espresso drink with sugar, coffee beans, and dried lemon rind (available with alcohol) and excellent sandwiches of all types. The house specialty - pork, ham, and cheese - was a great picnic for the beach. If you ever choose to include Valencia, I highly recommend putting this place in.
Emily in Fairfax, VA USA 07/20/2012
I used your Snapshot guide to Southern Spain when visiting Granada, Sevilla, and Cordoba. All of your self-guided walking tours were great, as were the guides to the most popular sites. We found the self-guided walking tours to be informative and interesting, as they noted many buildings and monuments that we would not have known about otherwise.
Arielle in Brooklyn, NY USA 07/14/2012
Yes. I would just lie to let you know that the simplest way to get to Sitges from Barcelona airport is to use the MON bus. It is a direct trip and way less complicated than the recommended plan in the most recent Spain guid book. Thanks as always.
Stephen Markowitz in Seattle, WA USA 07/07/2012
We just returned from a wonderful trip to Spain where we relied on your Snaphot book on Madrid and Toledo. In Toledo, we discovered a Middle Eastern restaurant that we thought you should know about. It is called Alqahira and is located at Calle la Ciudad 7, near the Cathedral and City Hall. The owner, Fathi Sayed, who is Egyptian, opened the restaurant less than one year ago. He was very gracious and the food was divine -- wonderful falafel and chicken kebabs, a refreshing fruit drink, and delicious baklava. The restaurant does not serve alcohol, however, which as you know, is quite popular in Spain! Given Toledo's Moorish past, it seemed very fitting to be eating Arabic food during our visit there. Thanks for all of your good advice over the years. When we travel, our rallying cry for every attraction is always, "What does Rick say about it?!"
Heidi Fallone in Milwaukee , WI USA 06/27/2012
Madrid: Found a great laundromat at 6 Calle Leon (intersection with Calle Cervantes in Cortes area). 4 euro per wash, 1 for 8 minutes of drying, free detergent. Open late.
Colin in Seattle, WA USA 06/25/2012
I have travelled extensively over the last 15 years with my wife and 3daughters now 18, 16, and 14. Best tip- after promoting and encouraging the art of eating locally and experimenting with new tastes and traditions, we always take the girls out for pasta and pizza the first dinner in a new place. After that the courage is up and the experimenting comes easily.
Dan Upton in Santa Barbara , CA USA 06/13/2012
1. Dar Cilla B&B in Tarifa - lovely apartments with gracious manager & owner. wonderful for saving money by cooking. great, easy location if arriving by car in a tricky parking town. I scoured all your Tarifa listings and didn't like the quality so I picked Dar Cilla and am thrilled I did. Suggest you consider adding them in 2013.
2. Toledo restaurant gem: Alquahira del Rincon Oriente near Plaza del Ayuntamiento. It was our best meal on a 12 day trip in Spain. It is only a few months old but you would love the owner, Fathi. He is gentle and charming and makes each guest feel special. The decor is spectacular and comes from his former shop. Read the reviews on TripAdvisor and you'll see that everyone is raving. I hope you meet Fathi - you will love him and his simple but delicious menu. It's a refreshing break from the typical paella, ham, squid rings. It's an experience Rick Steves readers like me are sure to treasure! Very memorable and personable.
Jennifer in Washington, DC USA 06/12/2012
We have enjoyed your travel programs and books over the years, and they are our companions on trips to Europe. We will always be grateful for learning about Il Latini in Florence…one of our fondest restaurant memories.
We recently returned from a 10 day driving trip to Spain. We have been there many times, but this trip was our first in eight years. We found a lot of changes in Spain. We took your 2012 Spain travel guide with us. The primary purpose of our trip was photography…we are serious amateurs. There are many of us these days with digital photography being so cheap and easy. The photography aspect of travel in Spain is something you might want to address in your guides. I also thought that you might appreciate some of the things we learned on our trip.
We were shocked by the overbuilding that has over taken Spain, accounting, surely, for their current economic situation. The charming little towns we found were no longer little or charming. The traffic was terrible. Although the highways are good, most of the towns have not been able to accommodate the influx of people both living and visiting there. There are a horrendous numbers of bus tours everywhere...great for those who love bus tours, no so great for the rest of us.
Here are some of the basics that we learned that might be helpful to others.
--If you have to rent an automatic instead of a manual car, try to get the smallest one you can. We had a Mercedes and it was a nightmare. You get in these little towns and forward progression, and exiting the town, becomes challenging. Sometimes it took us more than an hour to get out of a town. Salida Cuidad signs simply disappear. Street names do not appear on the streets. You constantly run into dead end streets and have to back down the street you came up on. Although this is charming at first, it quickly becomes more than annoying.
--Make sure you have a GPS with current maps. Ours did just fine on the highways, but I could have done that with a map. It was hopeless in towns and cities. When we last went to Spain, we didn’t have a GPS at all and were able to get in and out of towns with no problem. That was not the case this time. After 10 days of this, the frustration level was pretty high. Also, even though the economy is poor, road building goes on, confusing to the GPS, especially on the Costa del Sol.
--If you have any walking problems, Spain will be a problem. There simply is no parking close to anything. In some cases, especially in the white towns, you simply have to park outside of town and walk in. There are handicapped parking spaces in some towns, but I have no idea how you get a permit for this
I hadn’t been on the Costa del Sol in over 30 years. What a shock. It looks like Las Vegas on steroids. No more charming little village of Torremolinos…or anyplace else along that coast. However, if you get out of there and stay in Mijas, the experience is different. Although the town is bigger than it was, it still has charm and the Hotel Mijas is wonderful….very accommodating, lovely rooms, reasonably prices--good value for money.
Although you mention in your book that the Hotel Don Miguel in Rhonda had a staff that is “disinterested,” we found that they were just the opposite. Although you have to park a block away (and you can’t just go around the block in Spain---that takes an hour with all the one-way and dead end streets), we had a room that was very nice with an incredible view. We had one of our best meals in Spain in their restaurant. And the price was very reasonable for a hotel that couldn’t be at a better location….right at the gorge.
I found the section on the white towns in your book difficult to use. As a librarian, and probably like most people, I look for town names in the index in the back. In this book, you had to find Rhonda in the table of contents in the front. I never found Casares at all. Arcos de la Frontera is a fantastic place, but a challenge to drive, impossible to park. If someone wants to stay there, we found that you need to book the Parador ahead…they, at least, have nearby parking. Maybe a list of the most important white towns would be helpful and the best route to reach them in this section of your book. We found the best were Zahara de la Sierra, Grazalema (watch where you park here—80 euro tickets), Algondonales, Casares, and Olvera. Also a good central spot to stay is Ubrique. After hours of driving around, we found the Hotel Sierra de Ubrique. The hotel is lovely, reasonable, nice rooms, and a good restaurant. Also it is convenient as it is located on the road out of town. The way out of town is not easy to find. Chinchon, where we stayed two nights, is a charming town—great for photography. It is also centrally located to travel to Cuenca or the windmills. Both the Parador and the Condesa de Chinchon are worth a stay. The best restaurant we found in the town was Restarante la Balconada—right on the plaza. Their garlic soup and garlic chicken are wonderful.
Since the Don Quixote anniversary several years ago, the windmill route has definitely been upgraded and the windmills renovated. Although I had photographed the windmills many times, even dedicating one whole trip to them, I never had found the ones at Alcazar de San Juan. Next Consuegra, these are the most dramatic.
We stayed in several Paradors. We found the ones in Toledo, Antequerra, and Almagro to be a wonderful as one would expect. The Parador at Granada was another story.
We have stayed in a lot of Paradors in Spain and they usually offer a wonderful experience. That is not the case with the Parador in Granada, Spain. The Parador is located on the grounds of the Alhambra and because of that, apparently, they feel that they can charge an exorbitant amount for a room...in excess of $400 per night.
We arrived very late after a horrendous drive through the huge, overpopulated city to find the hotel. Although we were shocked by the price, we felt it was too late to go anywhere else. They said they would give us a special rate with breakfast. They did not tell us that breakfast would cost 60 euros. The breakfast was not all that special, especially compared to the Westin Palace in Madrid which was wonderful and only cost 45 euros, still very expensive though.
We dropped our luggage in our room and left to go to dinner. We didn't look at the bathroom.
They took our car keys...gypsies, not safe, etc. They got us a cab to go to a restaurant near the hotel. The taxi driver drove us all over town to a restaurant nowhere near the hotel which was closed. The driver got mad when we insisted he take us back to the hotel...the cab ride was $30. This taxi company hangs out around the Parador. We ended up eating at the Alhambra Palace, which was expensive, but not nearly as much as the restaurant at the Parador.
When we returned to our room it was nearly midnight. We were astonished that the room only had a shower...no bathtub. This is important to us as we don't take showers. I went down to talk to the men at the desk who offered to change our room. I felt that we should have some credit for the room as we were not going to move that late at night...they offered to pack our things. There was no way we were going to do that for the amount we were paying. They had never mentioned, at any point, that there was no bathtub. Why would we have to ask about this...isn't a bathtub sort of standard in a hotel?
When checking out in the morning, I saw that they had charged for the breakfast which was supposed to be part of the rate. They were very unaccommodating about the bill and the room. The manager apologized that we hadn't had a good time, not that they had provided poor service. I thought the desk staff's attitude verged on surly.
Although the building is lovely, and the rooms have recently been redecorated, they provide the minimum of comfort. They are stark with no items such as pictures on the wall to soften the Euro or Japanese feel to the room. The whole decor is not a fit for the location of the hotel. I have stayed in hospital rooms that were more comfortable and attractive. There was nowhere in the bathroom to put toiletries and the beds were hard.
It would have been nice if the hotel staff had, at any point, mentioned that it would be a good idea to get to the Alhambra the minute it opened. We also should have booked tickets ahead online. We got there an hour after it opened and the wait was over 2 hours. They admit 7,000 people at a time. Having seen it before, we left. We knew we would not be able to photograph or even enjoy it in that huge crowd.
In all, this was a bad experience for us. We would never stay at this hotel again and would caution others traveling to Granada to find other accommodations in the area. It soured our attitude about Paradors.
We only stayed one night in Madrid. We recommend to everyone the Almazara, a tapas bar in the Plaza Santa Ana. It is full of old world charm with a Hemingway connection. The best tapas around. Also, a few streets away is the wonderful Argentinian restaurant Lacabana Argentina (Calle Ventura de la Vega, 10).
Sandra Wittman in Carpentersville, IL USA 06/07/2012
Hotel Don Paula (Cordoba, Spain) Hotel was located in the historic old town of Cordoba. Close to most tourist attractions. The Mesquita and Jewish quarter is only 5 mins walk away. The hotel staff are really friendly and are always willing to help on directions and places to eat. There is parking available but must be pre-booked. The rooms were spotless, toilets clean and well laid out. Free wifi and minibar. Heating is available for cold nights. Great value considering they are cheaper and as good as an equivalent 3 or 4 star hotel. Highly recommended.
Frank in Santa Clara, Ca USA 05/08/2012
El Corte Ingles is not the best place to get a SIM card in Madrid, from my experience.
I bought my card there based on Rick's suggestion; however, no one spoke English in the mobile phone department (we used a phone interpreter somewhere in the store and my year of Spanish to communicate); however, the Orange Store two blocks away near the Sol Metro Stop had someone who explained in English that the SIM card came not only with 9 cent a minute in-country calls but an unlimited data plan for $3.95 Euros a week. The sales person at Orange showed me how to type in the text to find out how many minutes I had left and how much more money was left on the prepaid card. I was very happy to finally find out for 3.95 Euros I had unlimited webmail to my account back home as well as Internet and GPS access.
I would recommend buying a SIM card directly from an Orange store over anywhere else, since they know their product better than anyone and may have someone who can explain all the features.
Vernon in Charlotte, NC USA 04/26/2012
Best time to visit the Prado: on Sunday afternoons, starting at either 4:00 or 5:00 p.m., the Prado is free. We highly recommend going at 2:00 p.m., and paying the modest 8 euro entry fee. The museum is not crowded at all -- but there is a long line forming outside to get in for free. We thoroughly enjoyed the Prado this way. Also, for 1 euro you can get a nice sized locker. Put all your stuff in there and walk around unencumbered.
Robert Koppel in Potomac, MD USA 04/24/2012
Definitely see the White Hill Towns of Andalucia. The towns are quiet and fun, and of course, beautiful. The roads are completely upgraded. Everyone is friendly. Zahara: a must see. The drive from Zahara to Grazalema: highly recommended. Sentenil: houses and shops built under a rock ledge. A good stopover on the way from Granada or Cordoba to Ronda.
Granada (Alhambra): pay the money and take a guided tour. You will get much more out of seeing this fabulous sight. Cordoba (Mezquita): a must see. One of the most impressive buildings I have ever seen. But, as Rick notes, there is no reason to spend more than 6 hours in Cordoba.
Robert Koppel in Potomac, MD USA 04/22/2012
I totally agree taking the Yellow Aeropeurto Express Bus from airport to Atoche Rail Station was a good inexpensive, totally safe.
Rich Martim in Grand Rapids, Mi USA 03/22/2012
We rented an apartment in the Gracia district and loved it. It is the perfect "Back door" neighborhood for visiting Barcelona. It has good metro/bus service. It is in the heart of the city without being a tourist trap. It's a bohemian, international neighborhood where the locals live, not the tourists. You should add accomodations/restaurants in this neighborhood.
Julie in Sacramento, CA USA 03/19/2012
We just returned from 16 days in Spain (Feb 21-March 8) and highly recommend that where possible, travelers avoid Spain in late spring or throughout summer as it is hot, lines are long and thieves abound from what we've read. We had no such experiences. Weather was great the entire time, no lines and no problems whatsoever with thievery. Here are our tips: Not only do many museums, cathedrals and other sites offer discounts for "pensioneros" (over 65), but so do the trains! We purchased la "Targeta Dorada" (the Gold Card) at the train station which enabled us to buy Monday through Friday train tickets (including AVE) for 40% discount; weekend train tickets were 25% off. This was a good savings. In Barcelona, we stayed at the Hotel Murmuri- a divine chic boutique hotel on the Rambla de Catalunya (not the same as Las Ramblas). The hotel is located one block from the wonderful Passeig de Gracia and the Metro stop was right on the corner. We took the Metro everywhere and it was just a couple of stops from the train station when we left Barcelona. Murmuri is not a budget hotel but a highly recommended splurge. In the Barri Gotic/Ribera area, the TravelBar was a very good, low cost restaurant. The Murmuri has an excellent restaurant offering 16 Euro dinners (1-4 pm) In Madrid, a friend had recommended (as had RS) the Hotel Liabeny. It was nice and well located though lacking charm. Near the hotel on the Postigo de San Miguel (right behind the Monasterio de Las Reales Descalzas) is the Meson Las Descalzas. We had good meals there for 11 Euros each including bread, wine, dessert. We were going to go to the Prado during the free time (6-8 in winter) but decided to pay (with our senior discount) and entered with no lines and few inside at about 4:45 pm. Worth it to avoid the lines and crowds at 6. The Prado is indeed overwhelming (as is MOMA) if you try to see it all. We kept to the Spanish painters and were not frazzled. BTW, when we arrived in Madrid at Atocha, it was Sunday and Reina Sophia is free so we walked across the street to it and checked our bags (we traveled very light) in a locker and went up to see Guernica, then headed to our hotel. We highly recommend to anyone visiting Madrid to visit the Museo Cerralbo, the former palacio of the Marqués de Cerralbo who was an avid collector. The home gives one a view of high society life in late 19th century Madrid. Very worthwhile. It is locaed at Calle Ventura Rodriguez, 17 right near La Plaza de España. The Museo Naval is also a fine place to visit; it is near the Prado Museum. We saw the first map ever to include the New World, dated 1500, and other significant documents. Many ship models. We had a brief, on the spot tour by Don Miguel, one of the museum's model makers. He showed us a ship model it took him and a colleague ten years to make. His anecdotes were wonderful and conveyed his love of his work...he has worked at the museum for 30 years.
We would not recommend a stay in Córdoba but a stop to see the Mezquita and the Jewish quarter is worthwhile. In Sevilla, we stayed at Hotel Casa de la Juderia on the Plaza Santa Maria la Blanca. Great hotel with lots of Spanish charm--it is a former ducal palace. We walked everywhere in Sevilla...didn't even take a bus. Since Holy Week approaches, we saw some "pasos" and statues on exhibit as we walked around and on the Friday we were there, we participated in a Stations of the Cross procession through Barrio Santa Cruz....very moving and beautiful experience. At the Reales Alcázares (Rick, the accent is on the 2nd syllable...for your next TV program on Spain), we recommend paying a bit extra and seeing the upstairs floor. The Royal family stays there when they are in Sevilla....nice to see. RS' recommendation not to go to the Cathedral in the morning is on target. We went in late afternoon and there were no lines and few people. A very nice and reasonably priced restaurant in Barrio Santa Cruz is the San Marcos. Fare is Italian with a Spanish touch. Lots of atmosphere as the place used to be an Arab bathhouse in the 12th century. It is on Méson del Moro, 6-10. We had a cheap and good lunch one day at the University of Sevilla, the former royal cigar factory. The Museo de Bellas Artes is well worth seeing, as RS recommends. In Granada we stayed at the Hotel Guadalupe across from the main entrance to the Alhambra. We loved this three star hotel. Joaquin at the reception desk was very patient and helpful. Our room was on the 4th floor with a small balcony and overlooked the Alhambra to the right and a grove of olive trees directly in front. We were amazed that we felt like we were in the country yet a short walk to the town center through the Bosque de la Alhambra. Joaquin helped us get our tickets to the Alhambra and agreed with us that the system is a bit cumbersome. Other readers' comments indicate that the Guadalupe is not a big hotel and we agree. It is small with good service. The day we hiked up the Albaicín and Sacromonte, we had a very good lunch at a Moroccan restaurant called Meknes. It is located right where the statue of Chorrohumo is as described in RS 2009. The owner is from Meknes (a holy city near Fez). He prepared and served our meal....I had lamb tagine and my husband had lentil soup and the skewered lamb. We shared a honey and almond crepe and both had wine. Cost was 28 Euros for both and it was very good. In the city center we had coffee and pastry each evening at Pastelería Lopez & Mezquita; the waiters even remembered our order each night. This is a charming Old World-ish café serving pastries as well as sandwiches and light fare. Throughout our trip we never felt in danger of thieves at all....perhaps it is a warm weather phenomenon. We hardily concur with another traveler's advice to try to learn a bit of Spanish as it opens people up to being more helpful.
Donna Parrino in Tampa, Fl USA 03/10/2012
My wife and I found and took a Spanish Civil War tour in Barcelona - http://iberianature.com/barcelona/history-of-barcelona/spanish-civil-war-tour-in-barcelona/ Fantastic, reasonably priced guided tours in English which give a solid history of the background and events of the Spanish Civil War in Barcelona and Catalonia, as well as other historical facts about the city.
J. Overton in Port Orchard, WA USA 02/24/2012
I just returned from Spain, and I have a couple of tips. Rick mentions the new Metropol Parasol, in Plaza de la Encarnacion in Seville. It's interesting from the ground, but even better, for 1.20€, you can ride an elevator to the walkway on top for great views of the city. The walkway itself is almost like a carnival ride. In Madrid, if you plan to take the Exprés Aeropuerto bus to the airport (only 2€), note that after Atocha station (don't try to find it yourself, just ask around at the station) it makes a stop at Plaza de Cibeles before heading out of town. The second stop might be closer for some (This is also its late night departure point from 23:30 to 06:00).
Kurt in Astoria, NY USA 02/21/2012
I am traveling with my husband and 4 children. we arrived in Madrid just a few days ago. I have your Spain Guidebook on my iPad. At night I read your book and turn what I learn into a game for the kids. for example today we went to the Royal Palace. For each room I wrote down a question for the kids to figure out while we were there. It was a great success. thanks!
Karen Connelly in Toledo, Oh USA 01/03/2012
A great tip concerning the Alhambra tickets is to order online like you recommend, but then pick up the tickets at the Tienda de la Alhambra shop in Granada’s city center on Calle Reyes Católicos nº 40. The ServiCaixa machine there is very simple and there is an attendent that helps you if you need it. BUT- the biggest benefit is that by getting the tickets in advance you do not have to walk all the way to top of the Alhambra to the ticket area. You can simply enter at the Justice Gate and be very near the Palacios Nazaries. This is a huge time saver, stress saver and leg saver.
Tim Evans in Iowa City, IA USA 12/26/2011
You can purchase or pick-up your Alhambra tickets at the Alhambra Library located on Calle Reyes Catolicos a few blocks west of Plaza Nueva.
Jamie in Eagleville, PA USA 12/11/2011
You can purchase or pick-up your Alhambra tickets at the Alhambra Library located on Calle Reyes Catolicos a few blocks west of Plaza Nueva.
Jamie in Eagleville, PA USA 12/11/2011
If you accidentally exit the wrong stop on the Madrid Metro system, if you find a nice ticket person, and show that your ticket was timestamped within 40 minutes, she/he should let you back into the metro turnstile.
Christine in San Jose, CA USA 12/01/2011
On the island of Mallorca: two lovely towns, Pollenca and Valldemossa. Both of these are away from the main city, Palma and a fine alternate. A restaurant in Llucmajor: Ca'n Tia Taleca, C/ Campos,115 - good food, well presented, resonable prices.
Ronald Reitenauer in Yucca Valley, CA USA 11/26/2011
I just came back from 2 weeks in Spain, travelling by myself on the trains. I saw police in the airport and all major train stations. I did not see any scams or was accosted by pickpockets or "romans" (gypsies), except outside the Cathedral in Granada where they were handing out rosmary as described in the book. I assume these places are entirely different in the summer. Most cab rides around town were 5-7 euros for short distances. I never felt concerned in a cab. Speaking Spanish is perferred; there were a few times I struggled. It is noce to have ercommended restaurants, but note that it take time to go find them. A] Barcelona: 1 - The Barcelona Card for mass transit is excellent. However, be aware that changing metro trains underground can require a hike up and down a lot of stairs and through long tunnels until you learn where not to transfer. Try to learn the bus sytem where you can see the City while moving around. 2 - I took a 1/2 day cooking class at Cook and Taste (info@cookandtaste.net) and highly recommend it. The trip to the market and the cooking class was a great addition. 3 - There were some Romans around the entrance to the market but under the watchful eye of everyone. Lots of police presence on La Ramblas. 4 - The Picasso Museum is a challenge to find in a beautiful old fort. As stated in Rick's book exhibits mostly his earlier work and the rooms are out of sequence. 4 - Prices for tapas near any tourist spot and all restaurants facing La Ramblas are indeed overly priced.
B] -Madrid: 1 - The Prado is overwhelming. Recommend making a plan BEFORE entering, especially during the free entry times when it is crowded and you are short on time. Add 15 minutes to entry time for dropping off backpacks and bags at the check in. The Prado floor plan map availabe in the Prado is not very good at all. Recommend downloading a map of the layout so you can find what you want to see more easily. 2 - The restaurant "lamucca" on Calle Prado 16 had great atmosphere, and great food and is a 10 minute walk up the hill from the Prado. 3 - In the Plaza Mayor, in the northeast corner is the Cafeteria Magerit. English-speaking staff very friendly; prices very reasonable; great outdoor seating. 4 - As stated in Rick's book Avril and Segovia not worth the trip unless you have extra time. In Segovia I followed Rick's advice and ate the roast pig at Jose and Maria's - absolutley delicious! Wonderful restaurant. Know that sides are not included with your meal; you order ala-carte.
C] - Cordoba - 1 - From and back to the train statoin, you can see the Mosgue and Cathedral, and roman bridge in 3 hours easily. If I had to do it again, I would have taken an early Madrid train, toured the Mosgue area and caught and early afternoon train on to Seville. 2- Rick's suggestoin to eat at Bodegas Campos was excellent - and do walk around in the back - great restaurant.
D]- Seville - 1 - I went to the Los Gallos Flamenco show as recommended in Rick's book. Excellent and highly recommended. Note what rick states is tru - this is small and intimate - not a big "las Vegas" show sa at some other venues. However, other tourists I spoke with who paid more for a 1 hr show elsewhere were not overwhelmed with their show. Los Gallos is small but a great atmosphere. 2 - For ceramics go across the river to the Triana area, on calle Antillano and surrounding streets. Cost 100 Euros to mail an 8kg package to the states, so if possible pack so you have room to bring your purchase home yourself. At the shop around the corner from the Cathedral on Rick's self-guided walk, their ceramics are more exquisit in design, but charge 200 Euros to mail the same 8kg package.
F} - Granada 1 - BEST CITY in Spain, or at least tied with Barcelona. 2 - Do not leave Spain without visiting the Alhambra. Highly recommend getting tickets in advance. Plan a minimum of 3 hrs. In the courtyard between the Fort and Palace is a small stand with coffee, beer, and some food choices, to take a break between the two sites. I was lucky to get tickets at the entrance on a Sunday morning (that was sold out the day before) as described in Rick's book. For best photo light go when the sun is low - early morning or late afternoon. Take the minibus up and enjoy a slow walk back down the hill. Due to construction I could not walk Rick's recommended path. 3 - I stayed at Rick's recommended hotel, Los Tilos on the Plaza Bib-Rambla. I showed my guide book and got free breakfast. The rooms are not that special - reserve a room on the top (4th) floor if possible. Rick is correct that you can sit on the terrace (balcony) on the 4th floor, overlooking the square below, the Cathedral, Alhambra and in my case, the snow-capped mountains in the distance. I bought wine, cheese, ham, olives and bread and enjoyed a lovely afternoon between touring up there. 4 - Recommend the trip to St. Nicholas' church. You do get perfect photo's of the entire Alhabra Fort, castle, plateau, moutains and all of Granada. Watch the time of day and position of the sun. 5- Great restaurant at St. Nicholas' with outdoor seating. It was packed the sunny Sunday I went - 6 - Every tapa bar I went to in Granada gave me free tapa's with every drink I ordered!!
G] - Valencia 1 - maybe because it was at the end of my 2 week trip that I did not explore Valencia as I did the other cities I was in. Rick's 2011 Spain Guide Book did not include Valencia and so I took the Hop On-Hop Off Tourist Bus which has a red and blue route. You can take both routes for the same cost, just change buses at the designated spots. Not too many stops on either route so it can be inconvenient, but it is an inexpesnvie way to see the City, and has a pre-recorded tour guide you can plug earphones into to hear about the site you are driving past. 2 - As an engineer I was impressed with the City of Arts and Sciences, even though most of the buildings were closed. The pictures say it all. 3 - In the placa de la reina by the Cathedral where you can get the Tourist Bus, there is an Irish Pub that serves great food (no food after 1600). The next door restaurant serves great paella for which Valencia is known for (both chicken and seafood), and great steak.
matthew bonini in chesterfield, mo USA 11/25/2011
Madrid Cathderal, adjacent to royal palace
Harriet Dufton in Easton, PA USA 11/20/2011
Las Estrellas De San Nicolas in Granada was an excellent restaurant. We watched the sunset on the Alhambra Palace from Mirador De San Nicolas and walked right next door for dinner. The food was excellent
Susan Novak in Mt. Prospect, IL USA 11/14/2011
I just love seeing other people carrying your books wherever I go. I pull the pages out for the area or attraction I'm visiting, it's easier. I also carry the phase section for food. \We had EXCELLANT crepes in the Boqueria. I did not get his name but the man is from Argentina & does many different types & serves a really good cider. He puts on a show while cooking & the crepe makes for an inexpensive & filling meal. Check it out!
Barbara Pearce in Freeport , NY USA 10/17/2011
I just love seeing other people carrying your books wherever I go. I pull the pages out for the area or attraction I'm visiting, it's easier. I also carry the phase section for food. \We had EXCELLANT crepes in the Boqueria. I did not get his name but the man is from Argentina & does many different types & serves a really good cider. He puts on a show while cooking & the crepe makes for an inexpensive & filling meal. Check it out!
Barbara Pearce in Freeport , NY USA 10/17/2011
A few Madrid restaurants that you might want to check out.
- Taberna de la Daniela, Madrid near the Museum district General Pardiñas 21, Madrid. Found this awesome lunch stop. Great tapas, friendly, reasonable priced. - Bocaito, Madrid, Calle Libertad 6, Chueca or Banco de Espana metro stops. A big wow! Filled with local charm and the food is terrific. - El Mollete, Madrid, Calle de la Bola 4. It was the perfect place for our last night in Madrid. Great tapas, helpful staff and has both tables and staff up/counter service. Go for the food and ambiance.
In Cadaques, stayed at a great hotel with a very friendly and helpful staff call Hotel Playa Sol. Worth you checking out.
Restaurant and bar in Cadaques: Nord Est along the water front. Great hip vibe with no pretense. Tapas is creative and tasty; wonderful place to grab a table and watch the sunset. I'd go back in a flash.
David/Lakeview in Chicago, IL USA 10/15/2011
Yes - accommodation in Arcos de la Fronterra, Spain. Wonderful host, views & accommodation @ www.casablues.com. Lovely location in this charming town.
gail in victoria, bc canada 10/02/2011
I was on a mission to find the best chocolate con churros in each city we visited.
Granada-Cafe Futbol, Plaza Mariana Pineda 6. They had good chocolate con churros and cafe con leche. We came back for their specialty ice cream, "Turron" (nougat). We found this place full of locals of all ages and we enjoyed eating in the outdoor cafe and people watching. they also have in indoor cafe. this cafe opened in 1903.
Barcelona- Cafe Granja Viader on Xucla 4 was excellent for chocolate con churros. we also ordered the Mato (honey and cheese). However, we found another granja on Calle Ferran called Pasteleria Granja Forn del Pi, about a block off the Ramblas. this place also serves light meals. It's bright and cheerful inside. The chocolate con churros was very good and we also had the crema catalan.
Madrid-your recommendation for Cafe San Gines off of Calle Arenal, close to Plaza del Sol, was excellent.
For Tapas/Dining: Madrid- El Caldero on Calle de las Huertas in the Barrio de las Letras. Has good paella negra (squid ink paella)
Barcelona- Quimet y Quimet on C. Poeta Cabanyes 4 (near Poble Sec) had excellent montaditos-salmon with cheese & honey, anchovies, sardine with red bell pepper, goat cheese with caviar and balsamic vinegar
Barcelona- Cal Pep on Place de les Olles 8 (La Ribera). the line was out the door by 8p.m. It's a mixture of tourists and locals, a little pricey, no menu, but the chef prepares what's fresh that day-squid, monkfish.
we had some really great eating in Spain. We found the oldest tapas bars in Sevilla and Granada the most charming and cheapest. Barcelona had more modern tapas and was the most expensive.
Maria P. Chan in SF Bay Area, CA USA 09/29/2011
Tip- learning survival phrases and sentences in Spanish and using the language was very rewarding in having the locals be very friendly and helpful to us. We had locals point out what to order at restaurants and they truly tried to help us when we were lost.
Maria P. Chan in SF Bay Area, CA USA 09/29/2011
As Jewish travelers, we are happy to visit scores and scores of churches and other Christian sites, yet we also seek out experiences that relate to our Jewish heritage. Our "find" in Barcelona is Dominique Tomasov Blinder, founder of Urban Cultours project. She led us on a fascinating tour of the Call, the old Jewish quarter of Barcelona. Here is her contact info: www.urbancultours.com; e-mail: info@urbancultours.com; also check out www.jewishspain.info.
Leslie Kreithen in Huntingdon Valley, PA USA 09/27/2011
BEWARE THE SPICE SHOP! This is a tip for those travelling to Morocco. When in Tangier we booked a private tour with Aziz, recommended in the book. We love Aziz and the tour was great....but....we ended up with one of Aziz's assistants, Omar. When I was disappointed that it wasn't Aziz, he told us he would give us a tour of Tangiers at night after sundown (it was Ramadan). When we went out during the day with Omar, he took us to a spice shop and told us not to bargain - the prices were small. Well, we got so taken up by the whole production, we ended up spending 50 Euros on spices - in Morocco! Go to the spice shop, enjoy the show, and then go back to the medina and buy the same things for pennies!
Joanne Barhite in Chelsea, MI USA 09/07/2011
We LOVED the few hours we spent in Malaga. We had been routed in to the airport there by our travel agent. We left a few hours to do an early morning tour of the old sites. The pedestrianized middle town was so welcoming after a transatlantic flight. The old architectures lit at night were beautiful. We LOVED the Alcazaba -- in retrospect my favourite of all the Moorish palaces (including those in Granada, Corboda, and Seville), and the Cathedral was one of the most welcoming we visited (including those in Granada, Cordoba, Seville, Toledo, and Segovia). I understand that there might be bigger sites elsewhere, but with a significant international airport in Malaga, I think it would be worth your while to include a few words pointing the weary traveler to the sites in Malaga.
Mary Byrne in Victoria, BC Canada 07/24/2011
Casa Fuster (hotel in Barcelona) has Jazz on Thursday evenings. A splurge , but well worth it! Reservations required.
Kris in Bellingham, wa USA 07/18/2011
I accidentally "discovered" Rick Steves onboard NCL's Library in October 2010 just before disembarking in Barcelona. Through Rick's book, I discovered the Castellars in Barcelona and just in time made it to show. Also, discovered his TV show by accident. Now I don't miss any of his broadcasts. He's amazing! Thank you, Rick!
Ro in Oceanside, NY USA 07/18/2011
Hotel Palacio de Santa Ines, Granada recepcion@palaciosantaines.com www.palaciosantaines.com
This Hotel was right by the Plaza Neuva, in front of the Alhambra with great views from our window of the Alhambra at sunset and early morning. On the edge of the Albayzin district it was full of character with very helpful staff. Perfectly placed for access to everything. Highly recommended
June in Auckland, New Zealand 07/07/2011
just read my post about the bus to and from the airport to madrid. I was not clear and want to make it more clear. it is 2 euros for the bus ride to and from the atocha train station. it is then 1 euro on the metro from/to the train station to wherever you want to go on the metro. Sol is the main square and only 3 or 4 stops from atocha so very quick. that way very little time on the metro. also, the bus runs about every 20 minutes generally, so very easy to get into and out of madrid
michael c in tempe, az USA 07/02/2011
I agree with the last poster re: the laundry. However, there are two laundrys on Leon. They are affiliated since I used a coin operated laundromat yesterday on July 1. In there, they say if you need change to go to Saigon laundry. BTW 4 euros per load to wash and 1 euro for 8 minutes drying. it took me 24 minutes to dry two loads of laundry. very very good laundry. very clean, very easy to use and usually someone there to help with any questions. also, laundry detergent is there for free to use. have been all over europe and this was by far the easiest laundromat to use. highly recommend it Also, highly recommend the airport bus to and from madrid. 2 euros to the atocha train station and then 1 euro and only a couple of stops to Sol the main part of madrid. very easy and efficient. sitting on a bus is very easy compared to fighting people and luggage in a metro
Michael C in tempe, az USA 07/02/2011
Laundry in Madrid As reported there are some changes in the laundry facilities. However, there was a laundry at the Leon 3 address. It was Saigon laundry and they had dry cleaning just down the street. Did a good job for us
Della Schnell in Fresno, CA USA 07/01/2011
Casa Batllo (one of the Gaudi houses) is offering evening receptions in the summer where for €25 (it's €18 during the day anyway) you can enjoy live music, drinks, and walk around a portion of the house including the terrace. This was an enchanting experience, and is heavily advertised at the site itself, but seemingly not online.
Meghan in Delft, Netherlands 07/01/2011
Jai Ca is a small local bar with excellent seafood near the Barcelonetta. We especially liked the razor clams, sardines (various sizes) and small clams. Although almost everything was cooked in olive oil (with either basil or parsley) or fried, it was terrific and recommended by locals to our adult son who lives in Madrid.
Lynne Dinner in Port Washington, NY USA 06/24/2011
Not yet
Cameo Jones in San Francisco, CA USA 06/21/2011
my wife and I stayed for 5 nights at La Casa Grande in ARcos de La Frontera and loved every minute. I cannot imagine a better 300 year old hotel. Being able to step outside our bedroom onto a deck overlooking a gorgeous river valley one way and churches and houses the other, goats marching along the river below, and children's voices and cocks crow coming up from the town. Easy to get down to the bus for Jerez and thence the train to Cadiz or Madrid.
stolzberg in portland , or USA 06/18/2011
The Garden Backpacker in Seville is an outstanding hostel!
Ruth Morrow in Wichita Falls, TX USA 06/07/2011
We followed your advise and joined Consepcion Delgado on her show and tell tour. She was great and the tour is a BARGAIN!!!
Norbert Fratt in Oro Valley, AZ USA 06/04/2011
In Gibraltar: a bar called "Fresh" near the entrance of Casemates Square has free wifi 24/7. A club called "Rock on the Rock" has live music and is pretty popular with the local youth. Locals are very friendly, if you are outgoing enough you can make a lot of friends in a very quickly. The apes are a little territorial in the evening so if you don't have food for them, be weary. Gibs mostly go out on Friday nights, it's pretty quiet otherwise.
Travis in Puyallup, WA USA 05/21/2011
In Cordoba, Hotel Palacete Mirador de Cordoba, Avda. de Brilliante, 5.3 km. out of Cordoba, was an excellent find! 78 euro for a double, and a beautiful setting and historic building. They have a lovely breakfast buffet included, patios, pool, tennis. Also Merida is a lovely town with some of the best Roman ruins we found. Stayed at the Hotel Rambla Emerita, Rambla Martir Sta. Eulalia 17, for 50 euro for a double. Very helpful staff and centrally located.
Debbie Harmon in Woodstock, VA USA 05/21/2011
Found a great gelato place a few blocks south of Plaza Mayor in Madrid. Sorry, don't remember the name or the street.
Greg in Ventura, CA USA 05/17/2011
Valencia, pls!
Susana Galvan in Atlanta, GA USA 05/08/2011
In Segovia,La Juderia Bar Restaurante at Calle Juderia Vieja 5 tel. 921-461-402 should be added to your recommended restaurants for their excellent food, service, and value. On a different note, we waited 2 days to try and cross from Tarifa to Tangier and finally had to give it up due to high winds and no ferries running,so readers should probably be made aware of this possibility and have an alternate plan.
Rich Zayatz in Asheville, NC USA 05/03/2011
I just wanted to share my experience of having my valuables stolen while in Barcelona so that your guide book may provide more caution for would-be tourists to Spain. While in Barcelona in April 2011, my husband and I were walking from Segrada Cathedral towards Park Guiell on Sardenya street when a man walking behind us spat on us. He had claimed that it was bird droppings and attempted to help us clean up. We were highly suspicious and a lot of warning signs were flashing but we were conned at the end of the day because we thought that goodwill was inherent in all human beings.
He had walked out of a residential building and thus led us back into it, assuring us that he was going to get water and tissue to help us clean up. While in the distraction of cleaning up, he walked away with my hangbag. Luckily, we didn't have too much valubles in it other than ironically, your guidebook and our passports. The main points were, 1) he had the key to the locked lobby of the building which made us think that he was not as suspicious as he looked; 2) the supposedly bird droppings were runny cake dough and smelled of chocolate cake (another warning sign) 3) we were in a residential area which caused us admitedly to drop our guards 4) the police there is indifferent and the law lenient on criminals if they are even caught to begin with
Lucky for us, the replacement of our passports was easy with the effieciency of our Consulat in Barcleona.
Yee May Yeo USA 04/19/2011
Restaurant Casa Santa Pola, Ronda, Spain
Rafael Soto in Idaho Falls, ID USA 04/10/2011
I believe Rick is now including some information on Burgos and this city should be on anyone itinerary who does an extensive trip of Spain. Great food combined with great history makes this a memorable visit. Easily the best tapas in Spain. A side trip to Ona (about an hour away) is an interesting way to see how a cathedral is now being renovated to highlight the Benedictan and Jesuit influence on the country.
Tony Ambrose in Louiville, KY USA 04/03/2011
Casa Mari y Rufo, c/freixures, 11, Barcelona
art castagno in edmonds , wa USA 04/02/2011
When you reach the bottom of La Rambla, unless you intend on visiting the Columbus Monument, turn around when you reach the Burger King and walk back up La Rambla. You could feel and see the pickpockets hanging around in the vicinity of the Burger King. There is a lot of scaffolding on the front and sides of the Catedral de Barcelona. The door linking the right side of the church near the high alter and the cloisters isn't always open; Sometimes you have to exit the church and go in an outside side gate to gain entry to the cloisters. The Picasso Museum and Joan Miro Museum do NOT allow pictures to be taken of the artwork. The Romanesque wing of the MNAC is closed until June 2011 as they reorganize the artwork. Juan still works at Pinotxo in La Boqueria. I held up my Snapshot Barcelona guidebook and said "Juan el famoso!" He replied "no, no famoso!" then signed my guidebook below his picture. He alone is the best reason to go to La Boqueria! And in seven days in Barcelona, absolutely NO problems with pickpockets (I wore a moneybelt and kept my digital camera hidden) on La Rambla and on the metro.
Thomas Elliot in Nom de Plume, TX USA 03/09/2011
The Hotel Penon Grande was an outstandingly good recommendation!When in Nerja, if one is tiring of Spanish food, we can highly recommend Le Relais Gourmand for french cuisine. Location: Calle Almirante ferrandiz (Cristo), 18, 29780 Nerja, phone 952 52 23 22 and 658 75 72 89. And for a taste of modern Spanish fusion food in Cordoba (walking along your recommended street turned up not much...everything was closed that day but we saw a hand-painted sign on the corner of an old building and eventually stumbled upon...) - SOUL, a bar/cafeteria on c/Alfonso XIII,3, Cordoba. A wifi zone. phone 84-957-491-580...just be sure to specify which wine you want with which dish. Excellent find for vegans and vegetarians! We also enjoyed the restaurant/hotel recommendation for about 12km outside Ronda - one of the 2 owners is a very friendly and very knowledgeable American ex-patriot.
Karin McCullough in Seattle, WA USA 03/07/2011
The direct bus from the Madrid airport to Atocha train station was awesome!! Two euros and took less than half an hour on a Sunday morning! Free TI maps in Granada, Seville, and Cordoba are very good--I was able to navigate through the tiny streets in the old towns to explore and to get to and from the train station. (While RS guidebook maps are usually enough for me, they weren't enough in Andalusia.) Even the ATMs in Spain offered to do my transactions in US dollars, which was very confusing. (I chose euros, but in all my years travelling to Europe, I'd never had this from the ATM and was confused by it.)
Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 03/04/2011
I recommend the tapas restaurant Ferran in Barcelona at 24-26 Ferran, just steps off la Rambla to the east. Many staff speak English, and the tapas are larger and more varied than other tapas places in the book. Prices are quite reasonable.
Dale in Fairfield, OH USA 03/04/2011
Restaurant Rincon de Aragon at 28 Carrer Del Carme (2 blocks west of Rambla) serves roast suckling pig similar to Botin in Madrid. Not full of tourists, English not prevalent- an authentic place. Food was great, service friendly. Rincondearagon.es phone 933026789
Dale in Fairfield, OH USA 03/03/2011
Can't emphasize enough how rewarding the tour of Roman ruins is at the City History Museum in Barcelona. Also for a splurge dinner with great service and view, go to Montjuïc El Xalet, phone 933249270.
Joan in Maurertown, VA USA 01/29/2011
Museum of Glass and Crystal in Malaga, Spain
Calle Gaona, 20 (In front of the Church of San Felipe Neri) Tel: 952-221-949 Website: http://www.museovidrioycristalmalaga.com/
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 11:00 to 19:00H. Visits are guided. Mondays are closed. Entrance fee: Adults - 4 euros (Retirees and children - 2.00 euros)
The Museum of Glass and Crystal is the only museum of its kind in Andalusia and it opened on Sept. 1, 2009. The museum displays about 700 objects of glass and crystal, dating from Egyptian and Roman times to the present. The museum is located in a carefully restored 18th century palace in downtown Malaga, the palace having been built by an Italian family. Unlike other museums that seem sterile, this museum shows the glass and crystal objects in a home setting, with period furniture and decoration of that time. For example, if the glass objects come from the 19th century, the room will have a wood and glass cabinet where these objects are displayed. There will be chairs, sofas, paintings, mirrors, porcelain, lamps and carpets from the 19th century.
The bottom floor has many English stained glass windows with Pre-Raphaelite motifs, such as one made in 1880 by Albert Moore. The stairs going to the second floor have beautiful antique ceramic tiles decorating the stairs. The second floor has the rooms divided by the time periods of the glass and crystal displayed.
There are glass and crystal objects from every important and historic European manufacturer, such as Lalique, Webb, Wedgewood, Galle, Daum, and La Granja. This museum has some of their most beautiful samples, in every conceivable color. A visitor is overwhelmed by the beauty of these objects. The value of these antiques is astronomical.
The early 20th century room has a beautiful painting of a beautiful woman dressed in red. The painter was Henry Gervex, and the painting is called "El Vestido Rojo" (the red dress). This painting calls attention because the young woman portrayed is shown enjoying life. Another beautiful painting shows a beautiful blond woman standing with her son. The boy in the painting was the grandfather of the owner of the museum.
The museum really is also a decorative arts museum, with the best examples of period furniture. While this museum is quite large, it does not have enough space to display his whole collection of glass and crystal, which numbers about 3000 pieces. Malaga is very lucky to have this new and unique museum.
Benny Lopez in Malaga, Spain 01/13/2011
If you're a vegetarian in Spain: Good Luck! :) For "quick eats" know that you can ask anywhere for a "Bocadilla de Tortilla" which is a potato and egg in frenchbread. There are Indian restaurants and Italian restaurants that are good for Vegetarians.
We went to Gibraltar, even though the book said it wasn't anything too special. LOVED it! I think the reason why is that we're very active and so running around on "The Rock" was a lot of fun!
Sara Kinsey in Redmond, WA USA 01/12/2011
We've are very lucky to use your books, traveling in Austria, Switzerland and Spain. Thank you. We've arrived from Spain in late November. We've visited the the extra-ordinary poetic flamenco concert near the Cathedral of Cordoba - Tablao Flamenco Cardenal Calle de Torrijos, 10, 14003 Córdoba, Spain +34 957 48 33 20 . This was times better than the concert on the plaza de Espana in Seville, recommended in your book.
You've forgotten to mention the striking problem of using 500 euro bills in the European Union. Since 2002 you can't use them as cash. We've been cornered trying to pay for tolls and gas.
Alexander Gofman in Brooklyn, NY USA 01/12/2011