Spain 2010Favorite discoveries or tips: You might check out Hotel Constanza in Barcelona. Its ultra-modern decor is striking, it's environmentally friendly, and the price we got was reasonable. It's conveniently located in the Eixample neighborhood, a block off Gran Via on Calle del Bruc, 3 blocks from Placa de Catalunya and 4 blocks from the fabulous tapas at Cuidad Condal. Also, try the Peruvian restaurant Astrid y Gaston in Madrid. We've eaten at Gaston's original restaurant in Lima, and this branch in Madrid is even better! Nancy Zeilig in Denver, CO USA 11/14/2009 Restaurant at the Hotel Infanta Isabel served a small portion of suckling pig to my meat-eating travel companion while I had a fantastic salad. They have two prix fixe meal specials. Wendy in Washington , DC USA 11/04/2009 Poblenou neighborhood in Barcelona is a lovely place to stay--it's close to the beach and away from the crowds and noise of the center. Loved it. Barb McKay in Denver, CO USA 11/02/2009 (not sure if this is in the 2010 edition, as I used the 2009). If not then we recommend Inopia tapas restaurant. Excellent selection of tapas, wines and deserts. The staff is very friendly and will offer suggestions when asked. Jennifer in New York, NY USA 11/01/2009 Just as nobody recommends traveller's checks any more, I think internet cafes are also now passe. Our parents are in their 90s and we wanted to keep an eye out on things at home as we traveled. We found out -- after we had booked them -- that our 6 hotels in Spain ALL had free wi-fi. We spent $300 for an Ipod touch, which does not have a phone (nor any monthly charges) and checked our email twice a day. We had a free Spanish dictionary on it, free books to read and games to play on the flight and, while we had wi-fi, free internet connectivity. Money well spent! Sharon in Anaheim, CA United States 10/28/2009 Barcelona restaurant "Bilbao Barria" had better tapas than we had in San Sebastian and was very user-friendly. Good location by the cathedral. www.bilbaoberria.com Sharon in Anaheim, CA United States 10/28/2009 kayzmail@aol.com Kay Kershaw in Portland, OR USA 10/26/2009 Barcelona - If you are interested in that all over tan, there is a clothing optional beach in Barcelona - the beach area in Barceloneta. When you get to the beach area you want to proceed right, along the boardwalk, towards the large building with the letter W on the top. Go up the beach until you get to the last set of showers. Club Natacio will be on your right. The beach on your right. This is a couples and family area. The only unusual thing is taking a shower after a day on the beach with locals and tourists walking by, paying no attention to you. Enjoy! Len Duffy in Towson, MD USA 10/17/2009 Dear Mr. Steves, I am a basque man who has read your guide of Spain. Do you really think that entryways of the hotels are "bleak and dirty"? Where? Which hotels? Anyhow, I did enjoy very much your comments about my region, Basque Country (Euskadi). I am from San Sebastián-Donostia, and strongly appreciate what you write about my home town. Next time you visit us, you will be invited as many "pintxos" as you can eat. Regards. David David Marco in Donostia, Spain 10/14/2009 Pamplona - believe the Museo de Navarra was well worth a visit and deserves a mention in the book. Also if you want some of the San Fermin experience but without the bulls - be in Pamplona around 25 September, that is the "little San Fermin" celebrating the day the saint is thought to have died - so the gigantes and cabezudos are out, great fun, and VERY family friendly. Madrid - the Mercado de San Miguel is open (my edition of the book says due to open in 2009), and yes while it is not a typical market and more for the tourists, it is a nice place to try different wines, tapas, or other goodies from the various vendors. Madrid - tapas - we found in the Cava Baja area the two Basque bars - Txacolina and Txakoli - were both very good. Liza in Hereford, AZ USA 10/08/2009 This is an addition to the 2009 Spain guidebook we purchased prior to our trip to Spain, which was from Sept. 4-22, 2009. It is regarding the national day of Gilbraltar, which is Sept.10. We didn't know it in advance (it wasn't listed on page 678) but it seems the whole 30,000 population turned out in the streets for an all-day celebration. We went to the "Clipper" for lunch, as recommended in the book. It was quite good, but because it was the national day, we were charged an additional 10%. Now, I know Gilbraltar is not Spain, so maybe it doesn't belong in the book, but just about everyone comes from Spain to visit. Anyway, great book and we will go back. Michael A Noreen in University Place, WA USA 10/07/2009 I found an excellent hotel in Seville, situated 1/2 block from the cathedral - well run, 53.50Euros for Sb, and the interior courtyard of this old Sevillian 18th Century mansion was provided with seating as a common area; on the upstairs balconies were alcoves furnished with beautiful antiques and rugs - the whole place had great ambience and the staff were most helpful. Here is their info if you are interested: Hotel Simon, Calle Garcia de Vinuesa 19, Sevilla. Tel: 95 422 66 60/info@hotelsimonsevilla.com; www.hotelsimonsevilla.com I had attempted to book at Hostal Cordoba previously but their response was that they did not book until the end of July/this did not satisfy me as I was arriving in Madrid on Sept 5. You might want to enquire why they leave their bookings so late? Susan Sulic in Vancouver, BC Canada 10/07/2009 I took a 2.5 hour walking tour of Seville and it was great. I called Concepcion and she had me meet her partner, Alfonso, in the Plaza de Nueva. There were 5 of us and he did a great job of showing us the city and telling us of its history. Well worth the 12 euros Jean Brubeck in Santa Cruz, CA USA 10/06/2009 Mallorca Kylie Peterson in Dallas, TX USA 10/05/2009 Toledo, general. Toledo had a lot of touristy stuff, but we found a couple great local artists and watch them work in their studios. Check out Garrigoz Arte Toledo C/ Tendillas, 13. You can watch apprentice Javier work in the studio. Great pieces featuring Toledo landscapes. Also, Ataujia - a traditional jewelry store at C/ Alfonso X, El Sabio, 2. The jeweler was also working in the store and the woman working the shop explained the traditional process to us in English. We LOVED Stiges and ended up showing up during their huge festival in late September. Fireworks, parades, dancing etc. All the tourist shops shut down for the whole day. It was a great added bonus at the end of our trip to see a local festival. Cheryl Collins in Seattle, WA USA 10/04/2009 Barecelona- the bike tour was great! MA NY USA 09/25/2009 At the palace in Madrid the the 8 Euro entrance fee now includes the armory, which we thought was the best part of the tour. We also recommend using Rick's self guided tour. It is quicker and you see it all anyway. Save a couple of E's. Clay in Shelton, WA USA 09/23/2009 Alhambra guide Luz Rodriguez
Mary in New Haven, CT USA 09/19/2009 Prado in Madrid is open until 10 in the summer. After 6, admission is free. After 8, only exhibition is open, but not the permanent collection. Totally worth the 15-minute wait! Mila Felder in Chicago, IL USA 08/20/2009 Spain does not come alive until 11 PM; nap so you can join in! Steve Richards, M.D. in Spokane, WA USA 08/17/2009 Steven Richards, M.D. 4406 S. Tampa Dr. Spokane, WA. 99223 Steve Richards, M.D. in Spokane, WA USA 08/17/2009 The walking tours in the various cities - amazing! I will not take another European trip without a Rick Steves book to guide me! Danielle in Houston, TX USA 08/14/2009 There are free and clean WCs in Bretxa public market building in San Sebastian. I found the tourist signs in Barcelona not as good as in other cities like London, Paris, or even San Sebastian. I was lost more in Barcelona than I usually am. Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 08/11/2009 I think you should add a "womens" section. My friend and I NEEDED a pedicure after Two weeks of tromping through Spain. I took before and after pictures of my nasty feet..here is a discovery it is called "Jesus Peluqueros" For all your girl needs, hair, feet, hands..not much English, but fun and an experience. Daphne Weaver in Bremerton, WA USA 08/03/2009 Please tell me how to find the story of Prince Michael on page 446. Bryan in Seattle, WA USA 08/01/2009 please add this restaurant Carmen in Los Angeles, CA USA 07/29/2009 Ballet Flamenco Madrid (as a former dancer, including ballet and Flamenco, I thought it was terrific) Estado Puro -- a new wave tapas restaurant in the NH Hotel across from the Neptune statue in Madrid Melinda in Chicago, IL USA 07/28/2009 Spain Guide Book Carmen in Los Angeles, CA USA 07/15/2009 Picos de Europa -- while it can be touristy, we stayed in Aneizo outside of Potes and had a wonderful, quiet time. Visited craftsman of local cheese and liquor and hiked through the mountains. Stayed at La Pisa - http://www.lapisa.co.uk/home.html Nicolle Mode in Pleasanton, CA USA 07/12/2009 We used Spain 2008 so it is possible that you aready have this in your latest book. Madrid - Ginger Restaurant, Plaza del Angel,12, 28012 Madrid, 91 369 10 59. Located in Hostal Persal. you have to look hard to see the sign "Ginger". Great food very reasonably priced. Our local friends introduced us to it. Owned by the same people who operate La Finca de Susana. Much less rushed than La Finca. Cadaques - La Gritta Pizzeria and Restaurant. Right on the plaza facing the water front. Best Spanish value meal we had at lunch time. William Campbell in Ottawa, ON Canada 07/10/2009 Instead of wondering where to grab lunch, and after a week of tapas, we went to the El Corte Ingles store at the Placa de Catalunya and grabbed chips, sandwiches, and water. Really inexpensive, great time people watching outside as we nibbled. I find grocery stores very interesting places to visit outside the US. Plus they are usually convenient and cheap. Encourage more people to do this! Amy Teague in Fishers, IN USA 06/08/2009 We discovered a terrific tapas and wine bar, Ay...Maricru!, in Sevilla (located at Pasaje de Vila 6, 954 56 48 24). I would recommend visiting and adding to next guidebook. It had a nice upscale atmosphere with terrific 2-3 euro tapas, most notably a wonderful rendition of Andalusian spinach and garbanzos. It is a bit of a quieter stop but a nice change of pace to the bustling Barrio Santa Cruz district. Husband and wife owners are friendly and welcoming. Russ Lorber in Westminster, MD USA 06/06/2009 palaumusica.org Gaudi colleaugue inspired - reasonable rates for concerts Stephanie in Brinkerhoff, MI USA 05/18/2009 Antica Romeo restaurant - Nerja. You can't tell from the entry but they have one of the best seaside dining areas in town. Great, reasonable food - fantastic views. Joan McKey in North Vancouver, BC Canada 05/14/2009 Arroceria Gala restaurant in Madrid. Very good paella and very nice atmosphere. Located near the Prado Museum.Calle Moratín #322 91 429 2562 spainfan in Washington, DC USA 05/08/2009 You should encourage Barcelona visitors to buy the Artticket (instead of mentioning it). With ticket prices now even higher, the 20 Euro ticket pays for itself after just two top attractions (Picasso Museum & Casa Mila). Dave in Philadelphia, PA USA 03/31/2009 A stroll through the El Retiro Park on a Sunday morning is a great low-cost activity and an easy way to acclimate to the time change. There are a variety of street performers there to amuse young and old. I was particularly fond of the performance of Goldilocks and The Three Bears I witnessed. Cliff Gilbert in Mount Laurel, NJ USA 03/31/2009 My Wife and I just returned from 14 nights in Spain and Portgugal. We used Rick's books to plan our trip and took them with us. They were a great help. vueling airline is our travel tip. We booked flights 6 weeks ahead on vueling.com and flew from Barcelona to Lisbon for $68 each, Lisbon to Madrid for $59 each, and Seville to Barcelona for $63 each. This included all taxes and fees, including 10 euros to check a bag, 2 or 3 euros to select your seat, and 8.5 euros to use a credit card when booking. Spotless Airbus A320's. We could not have had the same trip without vueling. ED ERWIN in CORSICANA, TX USA 03/23/2009 I needed to have a PIN on my credit card to use it in the AVE train ticket machines at Atocha in Madrid, so I had to use a debit card instead. (Round-trip Madrid to Segovia AVE was only 15.10 euros, though!) Segovia AVE station to town bus was 0.86 euros each way. There is also a Toledo TI branch on Plaza de Zocodover to the left of the keyhole gate. Lady at Segovia TI spoke very little English; we had a hard time even asking for the bus schedule. There is a grocery store (Dia) not that far from the Roman aqueduct in Segovia; I wish that had been on the map. Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 03/06/2009 Madrid: The Templo de Debod was fascinating, an easy walk from the Palacio Real. Really fabulous Christmas lights. The Metro system is fantastic, clean, cheap and easy to navigate. Seville: The flamenco show at Casa de la Memoria was just the "right amount" of flamenco. We didn't want a long program, or an expensive one. This one is one hour and 16 euros. Arlyce in Stillwater, MN USA 01/16/2009 El Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales in Madrid. The tour was entirely in Spanish but you didn't need to know what was being said to appreciate the beauty and art of the monastery. It was a great addition to the other sites Rick mentioned. Jennifer Chen in Fremont, CA USA 01/03/2009 Archivo General De Indias Avenida Constitución S/N 41001 Sevilla, Spain 954 500 528? 954 219 485? - Fax They have a wonderful exhibit of Spain's role in what is today the USA and how Spain helped the 13 colonies gain independence from Britain, including lots of incredible, original documents and maps. FREE admission! Jon Strebler in Chula Vista, CA USA 01/03/2009 In Granada the Hotel Guadalupe (www.hotelguadalupe.es)is a good option for those arriving by car as you totally avoid driving in town. It's located just across the street from the parking lot of the Alhambra with its easy and well-signed access when coming in off the autoroutes. Getting into downtown Granada from the hotel is simple and cheap via a short mini-bus ride from the Alhambra stop which is a hundred yards from the hotel. The Guadalupe has nicely furnished, clean rooms at modest prices - in October we got a three-night rate of 60 euros for a double. Also, the desk staff was very professional and helpful - the best we encountered on our trip. Roger and Ruth in Oregon City, OR USA 11/05/2008 The Tourist Information center in Barcelona had excellent maps, lists of English speaking taxi companies, metro and bus information, etc. C Rathfon in Oakland, CA USA 11/04/2008 I only have two recommendations (beyond expanding the scope of the book to include places like Burgos, Olite, Zaragoza, and Albarracin - all of which we thoroughly enjoyed): Ardoka Vinoteca in Hondarribia; and Sasibil (c/ Jarnies s/n), a wonderful restuarant in Bilbao's Casco Viejo - and quite near the Hostal Iturrienea Ostatua - where we had the single best meal of our two week trip. (The other memorable meal was at Rincon del Chorro in Albarracin.) Richard Rowe USA 10/20/2008 For Madrid, Spain: Great vegetarian restaurant near the city center - Viva la Vida, Calle de las Huertas 57. Best free WiFi reception in downtown Madrid - on Calle Gran Via, in front of the McDonalds across from the giant Telefonica building. WiFi source is called "FlagshipStore" . Thanks! David Schultz in San Diego, CA USA 10/17/2008 Been using the RS books since 1996 and find them the best on the market. Just came back from a 2 Week trip to Spain and wanted to share 2 restaurants and a tour we found on our own that I feel your readers would enjoy. I have a few simple rules for European travel and two of them are: If a Brit is giving a walking tour take it and if the French are eating in the restaurant get ready for a great meal. These three places follow the rules Pilar del Toro in Granada a few doors down from the TI in Plaza Santa Ana Hospital de Santa Ana 12, Granada 95-822-38-47 Main courses 10€-17€ ($12-$20) A great meal in a romantic setting when you’re looking to break up the Tapas routine. The Vegetable Pate for a starter was wonderful Best tapas I had in Spain were at the Bodegas Mezquita in Cordaba right next to Mezquita. Every tapas was top notch and fairly priced. 40 tapas and 60 wines http://www.bodegasmezquita.com/en-index.html and Finally in Madrid I took a Free Walking tour ..only tip what you feel is fair The guides were dynamic and informative and the tours go every day twice a day sound they fit any schedule http://www.newmadrid-tours.com/ Desmond Conneely in Hoboken , NJ USA 10/16/2008 My purse was snatched in a trendy Tapalia in the financial district about 10:45 at night. They were very slick to the point we wondered if we were set up. Within 20 minutes VISA cancelled my cards and put a 90 day block on my accounts. My appreciation is to your warning not to carry anything, but my ID and the cards and some cash--no passport or anything of other significant value. The other most helpful item was the "free" number for the Madrid police. They took my report via phone and after meeting them the next day, within 30 minutes, I walked out with a certified police report verifying the theft. FYI, the report is taken by an English speaker, but needs to be vertified with the officer as the report is written in Spanish. They do use a translator via computer to confirm the accuracy of the report P. Moran in Marlton, NJ USA 10/15/2008 We traveled in Spain for two weeks in late September, early October, 2008. Below are some of our favorite hotels and restaurants. During the trip €1 = US $1.35. Have a great trip! Scott Toledo and Madrid We heard that it was nice to stay in charming, medieval Toledo at night, so we booked four nights there, planning to take day trips to Madrid. While it worked out alright, I don’t think I would do it that way again. We are not excited about game meat (partridge and such), so found the food in Toledo a bit limited. We enjoyed tapas and had a nice Chinese meal as well. We stayed at the Casona de la Reyna hotel, which was fine. The bus to the center and the bus station stops just outside the hotel, but it is a 10-15 minute hike uphill to breakfast (if you don’t eat in the hotel) or to the main square. We opted for the slower, cheaper train to Madrid one day (€9 each way), the bus the next (€4.7 each way). Both took about 1.5 hours. In Madrid, while exiting from the Plaza del Sol metro station, we saw a guy with a “Free Walking Tours” sign. This was Eddie from NewEurope, who promised a 4-4.5 hour guided tour for tips only. We joined in and it was a very nice experience, similar to, if longer than, walking tours we’ve taken in Paris, Prague, and Granada (see below). I don’t recall what time we encountered Eddie (our good luck!), but it was about 11 or noon. Arcos de la Frontera and the “white towns” We took the AVE from Toledo to Madrid to Sevilla, then picked up a rental car at the Seville train station. We stayed two nights at Hotel El Convento c/ Maldonado, 2 Arcos de la Frontera 11.630.- Cádiz reservas@hotelelconvento.es www.hotelelconvento.es Tel. +34 956 702333 El Convento has fantastic views over the countryside. They offer a 10% discount if you can show the Rick Steves book and pay in cash. Arcos is a picturesque, quiet town (though it was having its feria while we were there-a bit noisy, but fun and very Spanish). Seville Sevilla was our favorite town overall, though we were not lucky with hotels. Originally we booked at the Patio de la Alameda for four nights. But because of issues there, we escaped after two nights to a cheaper, slightly more central place. Patio de la Alameda offers one bedroom apartments with kitchens. They have lovely patios with plants and the rooms are large and comfortable. But I can’t say that for the beds! I like a firm mattress, but these were downright uncomfortable. Also, about half of what you need for cooking (even for making coffee) is missing from the kitchen—for example in our kitchen there was no kettle (just a saucepan) and there was dishwashing soap but no sponges or scrubbers or even dish towels (we used a bath towel). They have wi-fi in the lobby (they claimed) but no computer for non-business guests to use. We were very disappointed and moved out. Granada We loved our hotel in Granada, the Posada Pilar del Toro C/ Elvira, 25 18010 Granada reservas@posadapilardeltoro.com www.posadapilardeltoro.com/ Tel. + 34 958 227 333 The rooms were very nicely designed with an attractive bath and the location is very central. There is a little problem with noise from the central courtyard/restaurant. It quieted down by 11 or so at night, so was OK, but Sunday afternoon it would have been impossible to sleep with all the family feasting going on from 1 to 5:30pm. A nice buffet breakfast was included with the room. A young American, Eric, offers 2.5 hour walking tours of the Albaicin neighborhood for tips. He has done his homework and works hard to make the tour interesting. Eric places his brochure in hotel lobbies (no cell or email listed) and meets groups at the fountain in the Plaza Nueva at 11am daily. We fell in love with a small, family run restaurant serving Italian and Spanish food. Chef Chari and waitress Mar were warm and wonderful to us—by our second visit we were taking photos, hugging, and getting tastes of some dishes we didn’t have room to order. One highlight was the warm goat cheese with caramelized onions appetizer—fantastic! And my partner raved about their specialty Rabo de Toro (Osso Buco). In fact everything we tried there was excellent and the prices moderate. Closed Tuesday night and all day Wednesday. Pizzeria Peppino Calle Santa Teresa, 25 (corner of C/Veronica de la Magdalena, a few blocks south of the Cathedral and Plaza Trinidad) Tel. 958-252-959 Map at www.pizzeriapeppino.com We also had great and reasonably priced tapas at Bodega Casteneda, near the Posada Pilar del Toro. Scott in Seattle, USA 10/11/2008 We really enjoyed visiting La Oliva in Granada. Small store, sells wine, olive oil, ham, etc. The owner takes pride in his work, enjoys letting you do tastings of what he sells. We sat down and tried 8 different olive oils. Owner is Francisco Lillo, C/ Rosario, 9- 18009 Granada Donna in Charleston, SC USA 09/24/2008 Rick, I simply want to thank you for recommending Jose of Pepitotours for a tour guide in Barcelona. I contacted him and he offered a wonderful 4 hour tour of the city. It was well worth the money and much more enjoyable than the shore excursions our cruise ship offered. He is truly a great guide. Thanks for the tip. Marianne Niesen in Helena, MT USA 08/26/2008 Booking AVE tickets in advance on-line will get you big savings. A one-way ticket Barcelona to Madrid, regular price is 124.30 euro, bought 62 days in advance (maximum advance) cost 49.75 euro. Michelle Strub in Calgary, AB Canada 08/13/2008 Used Pricelines bidding options (Name Your Own Price)for hotels in Madrid and Sevilla. Placed in 4 star business hotels for under $100 (US) per room. Powerful AC and baths were the chief advantages of this option - especially in July at 104 F. Street festival in Triana (Sevilla) last week of July was awesome. Tents along the river run by varous restaurants with super selection of fresh seasfood tapas, vino verano, beer and an amatuer Flamenco contest for local children. Tim English in Atlanta, GA USA 08/12/2008 We took the ferry out of Tarifa to Tangiers. That was a fantastic experience, in part because of our excellent guide,Amhed Ghioue. His phone numbers are 039322449 or 063037566. He speaks excellent English and loves to educate his charges in the culture of his beloved Tangier. He also seems to know everyone and is obviously respected in his community. He was well worth his fee and he stayed with us all day long. The restaurant he took us to in the Kasbah served us the best meal we had on our entire trip. Patti Hine in Yucca Valley, CA USA 08/05/2008 El Corte Ingles' basement markets (both Madrid and Sevilla) were a great source for picnic dinners - - excellent selection, economical and avoiding the need to wait for a late dinner to be served. The rooftop terrance at Hotel Amadeus in Sevilla was a superb place for picnic dinners! Bob Lata in Paso Robles, CA USA 07/25/2008 in cordoba: Hotel Serrano Benito Perez Galdos, 6 telephone: 957-47-01-42 web: cordobahotelserrano.com about 2 or 3 blocks from train station, room includes breakfast, VERY clean, internet in lobby, elevator, air conditioning in rooms, in room bathroom/shower/tub. spainsh style hotel rooms, yet roomy (for spain;) our family stays there whenever we are in town and i highly recommend it. Lisa J. Rodriguez in New Kensington , PA USA 07/19/2008 Restaurants we enjoyed in Barcelona were Restaurante La Gloria, in Barri Gothic area and Cafe de l'Opera on the Ramblas. In Madrid we had early dinners at Restaurant Lope de Vega near the Prado. Benito was really kind and spoke to our daughter in Spanish. Nearby, we ate at Bar Roda. They had excellent tortilla espanola. Linda Cramb in Jaffrey, NH USA 07/08/2008 If anyone is planning to walk to Parc Guell in Barcelona I would advise against this. It is a very long walk, hilly, and there is road construction where you would begin the trek. Take the bus! The parc is awesome and should not be missed. Susan Jennings USA 06/30/2008 The public transport in Madrid, Barcelona and Toledo was very easy to use. I am including Buses, metros and even the taxies. As noted in the guide El Corte Ingles department store is your friend-cheap water, snacks, wine..etc. Mitch Heinemann in Frisco, TX USA 06/28/2008 Madrid: Laundry Onda Blu still there, free soap, but you don't put the coins in the machine, there is a central control at the back. Madrid Metro: Ticket vending machines have English! Easy to use, but watch out for gypsies - see my other comment. Madrid Hotel: Stayed at Hostel Cruz Sol, on Plaza Santa Cruz, steps from Plaza Mayor. $55 Euro, free internet, excellent value and location. Train: I got great deals on AVE fares by buying on the Internet 60 days ahead - "Web Fares" are 60% off, but are limited in number, so you have to buy very early, as soon as the tickets open up for sale. Water: Drank tap water everywhere we could - no problem.
Driving: Big new roads great, old cities are hell! Car Rental: I used Malagacar.com, great rates, all insurance included, they don't care about scratches and dents - in fact they said "go ahead a put a few more on the car, we don't care!" Food: This country seems to live on ham and cheese sandwiches! David Truman in Langley, BC Canada 06/21/2008 From about June 5 onward sitting in parks during the daytime (from about 3pm-8pm) is unpleasant due to the constant shooting off of firecrackers by young boys. Apparently this is "early celebration" for Corpus Christi Day? Sadly, all of the fountains throughout the city have been off since March of 2007. They may be turned on sometime in June if more rain comes. This does impact the beauty of the many city squares, etc. Lack of flowers is also due to lack of rain. Sally Hirschheim in Baton Rouge, LA USA 06/13/2008 If you are driving in Spain, and plan to do so in large cities, buy road and street maps in the U. S. or your country of origin. It will be very helpful in navigating the streets since Spaniards are not always very precise in their directions. We loved the unusual types of food and dared to try them as much as possible. We particularly enjoyed gazpachos, rabo de toro, calamares, croquetas and octopus, for dessert, arroz con leche or cuajada, for snacks, mazapanes. Spaniards walk a lot, we loved it. Spaniards also smoke a lot, sometimes it was difficult to find a non smoking restaurant. Marcia, Jaime, and Two Children in Rochester, NY USA 06/07/2008 Granada: Hotel Puerta de las Granadas: Modern, efficient hotel with very friendly & helpful management. Free internet and hot drinks. On Cuesta Gomerez en route to Alhambra, 50 m from Plaza Nueva. URL: http://www.hotel-puertadelasgranadas.com Ashwin Honkan in Pune, India 06/05/2008 We are just back from Barcelona. In addition to the usual sights such as Casa Mila, Parc Guell is fantastic. Bocqueria Market is a must visit. Susan Jennings in Atlanta, Ga USA 05/31/2008 For older travelers or those with mobility limitations, I recommend Barcelona or Sevilla for ease of travel. Some venues give discounts or free entry for those with proof of age over 65. The Alcazar in Seville was free for us oldsters. Passport or driver's license. Our RS tour enjoyed a thrilling traditional flamenco show in Seville. As a place to study/learn Spanish I would choose Seville. The accent there is closer to the Latin American accent than in other regions of Spain. Swan in Napa, CA USA 05/27/2008 In Tarifa, the FRS ferry to Tangier has a special tour promotion. For 56e/per person, you get round trip crossing on the ferry, plus a tour guide/bus transportation, a wonderful sit-down meal with music, plus plenty of time to shop. The round trip fare alone is about 55e, so this promotion is wonderful! Dan NJ USA 05/18/2008 While in Madrid, to download digital photos to a CD or DVD, try the Locutorio Sion Telcom at #14 Calle de la Cruz. This is between Plaza de la Puerta del Sol and Plaza de Santa Ana. Alex, the proprietor, was very helpful. Very reasonable prices for Internet access also. To contact Alex for further information, his e-mail address is alexnick17@hotmail.com. Thanks to your book, Mr. Steves, we had a great trip. Sean Dolan Sean Dolan in Long Beach, CA USA 05/15/2008 Don't hesitate to book your reservations at either the Santa Isabel in Toledo or the Los Pastores in Ronda. Two very nice places to stay. Both towns are clean and fun to visit. We took our 15 year old granddaughter over there just last week for her upcoming 16th birthday, and we all had a blast. The people of Spain were so considerate and very helpful at all times. Dale Peterson in Stillwater, MN USA 05/10/2008 Loved Tangier!! But Rick, please give better guidelines on how to pick a guide. We were virtually accosted by potential guides as we got off the boat, some claiming to be officials from the tourist office. Once we got someone who didn't seem to be quite so aggressive, I didn't really know the appropriate questions to ask. We told our guide we weren't interested in the snake charmers or camel rides, and wanted to see how the people live and the culture. He still took us to a carpet shop and souvenir shop and tried to push us to go to a restaurant you said was extremely touristy. He also gave an initial price of 50 Euros at first; I told him you said it would cost 15, we compromised at 20 (for 2-3 hours) but I still wonder if we got ripped off? His English seemed good but he didn't answer a lot of our questions - not sure if this was a language issue, a cultural difference or he didn't know the answers but didn't want to say so. If I had it to do over again I would arrange ahead of time with the guide Rick recommends. BUT, it is good we didn't do that because the ferry got cancelled due to bad weather on the day we had originally planned to go. Still, despite feeling out of our element with the guide situation, Tangier was the highlight of our trip. The Saveur de la Medeterranee restaurant was FABULOUS! Ellen Canada 05/09/2008 We just returned from two weeks in Spain. We went to Barcelona, Cuenca, Madrid, Córdoba, Grenada, and Sevilla. Here are some things we found useful. Although admission discounts are nearly always reserved for citizens of the EU, Americans 65 or over (“jubilados”) can occasionally get a discount, or even get in free. You must show your passport or driver’s license to qualify. For trains, you need a Senior Card, which has to be applied for and obtained in advance at a special office, etc. (passport-sized photo required). Professors (including secondary school teachers), if they have an official employee ID, may also sometimes qualify, but normally, under similar restrictions. For brief visits, it’s not worth the trouble.
Study up on Spanish foods or ask for a menu in English. On some menus we saw, all but one or two of the meat dishes were organ meats, bones, cheeks, testicles, and the like. Lists of foods in Spanish phrasebooks (including Rick Steves) are completely inadequate for such situations, and many of the dishes are very heavy and greasy.
The city maps that are graciously distributed free by hotels and TI (Tourist Information Centers) are very helpful, but smaller streets may be omitted; the angles at which the streets join may not be shown accurately; and, most important, the superimposed icons indicating major monuments, museums, and churches are often printed backward, or a block or two out of place, or both. Don’t rely on those icons to find your way. Boulevards and green spaces may not be shown. Also, some streets may change their name every block or two (“Las Ramblas” in Barcelona, with at least six different names, are a prime example).
Credit card (tarjeta [de crédito]) sales are a nuisance for merchants, who also lose money on the fees charged by the card companies. Although merchants are very gracious about accepting payment by card (Visa is most commonly taken), some hotels or museums will insist on payment in cash, and some merchants will not accept credit card payments for smaller amounts (in our experience, ranging from 16 to 60 euros). Carry enough cash just in case. If you don’t see a credit card icon for your card type outside an establishment, always ask before ordering or purchasing: “¿Se puede pagar con tarjeta?”
A money belt is essential, but you don’t want to have to rummage inside your clothes all the time (revealing the presence and the location of your money belt). Because any pocket can easily be picked, try keeping smaller sums for the day’s activity inside a deep, inner jacket pocket, preferably zipped or buttoned—and zip up the jacket at least partway. The disadvantage: it’s hot.
Tipping: One euro is often too much for cabbies or for waiters who’ve just served you a snack, or who clear your table after a continental breakfast. Keep a collection of 50 cent pieces with you, as well as one-euro coins for the subways (although a discount ticket that gives you ten rides is better). Politeness. I think that a one- or two-page section devoted to this topic should added, indexed, highlighted, and included in the initial table of contents of Rick Steves’s book. Some examples: use the courtesy title (explain the concept); use “Señorita” for women you don’t know; if they want to be called “Señora,” it’s ok, and they’ll tell you. Permiso (“could you please let me by?”) is often useful, and should of course be distinguished from the other “excuse me,” perdone (“I’m sorry I bumped into you”, etc.) Quisiera (“I would like”) is a nice touch to introduce formal requests, and it’s worth learning the conditional form of a few other verbs to make polite requests (“could you tell me,” for example). Putting the object pronoun “me” before a verb makes the request more polite, as in “Me da” instead of “Da me” for “Give me”—although por favor (also used to attract attention before making a request) is always indispensable, and to be on the safe side, put that phrase first. For passive recognition, at least, travelers should know Prego (literally, “I beg of you,” or an imploring “Please,” often used as a polite way of saying “Don’t mention it; it was nothing”). Greetings vary depending on the time of day: roughly, “Buenos días” until 3 pm or the end of the siesta; “buenas tardes” from about 3 to 6 pm or till the end of the working day; “buenas noches” for evening hours.
The new and almost universal word for public toilets is “aseos” (and not sanitarios, WC, baños, toilettes, or lavabos); they’re usually clean, but they seldom have soap dispensers in working order, and at times, lack toilet paper: carry both with you. Don’t count on hot water. Don’t use Kleenex; it clogs toilets. C stands for Caballeros (Men), and D for Damas (Women). Look at the little icons very carefully before entering a restroom: in fancy restaurants the cutouts of men on the bathroom doors can make them look like women, because they often include big hats, longish hair, frilly vests, and long coattails that can look like skirts. It would be useful to have supplementary vocabulary indicating the places that modes of ground transport leave from: vía (train track), andén (bus or train platform), dársena (bus platform or boat dock). Also, for the distinction between tickets for admission to events (taquillos) and tickets for transport (billetes). In big train stations and airports, the prominent Atención al Cliente offices, meaning “traveler’s aid,” can help you out of a jam, such as the one we found ourselves in when our train was canceled (“sup” = “suprimido”) owing to a May Day strike. They can rebook you in such situations, and provide you with an official stamp and written explanation that will entitle you to an (eventual) refund. They’re often next to the ticket windows and the tourist information (TI) booth. A few more useful words are: sin (“without” for features of a room, ingredients of a dish of food or beverage), con (“with” a feature or an ingredient, as in “café con leche”), la cola (the queue, the line you have to stand in to wait), sup / suprimido (cancelled, as in scheduled trains or planes), ahora mismo (right now), venta de (sale of), por atrás (back the way you came), la parada (the stop that a train, bus, or metro will make, as in “próxima parada”).
The Spanish sun dries you out fast; always carry a water bottle. You can get tap water for free in nearly all restaurants and cafés if you ask for “agua del grifo” or for “una jarra de agua.”
Barcelona: April 24 is the Feast of Sant Jiordi (the Saint George who killed the dragon), and on that day, it is traditional for a woman to give the man she loves a book, and for the man to give the woman a rose. The streets are lined with florist’s and booksellers’ stalls.
The Picasso Museum is somewhat disappointing, except for the earliest works, and for the nearly 50 fabulous variations on figures from Velásquez’s “Las Meninas.” (The great Italian painter Tintoretto also lived in Spain for much of his adult life.) Gaudi’s La Sagrada Familia, despite additions of three side wings, and constant construction, doesn’t look too much different from its state in 1937, but the Gaudi residential buildings are uniformly superb.
Córdoba: The Festival of the Patios has started charging admission this year (2008), and you have to purchase a punch card at a central location. The places whose patios are on display all have prominent plaques. Having seen a few of the floral displays, I don’t think it’s worth it, now, but lots of Spanish people do.
Cuenca: To get there from Barcelona, you have to transfer to a different rail line in Valencia. You take a subway from the Bailén stop, which has an obscure entrance just outside the back right hand corner of the main Valencia station. You go four stops in the direction of “Torrent.” There’s one subway every fifteen minutes. When you surface, you have to walk a few hundred yards to an elevated railway station, take an elevator up to the near side, and walk far to your right along the train platform for Via 2 until you get to Via 1, which starts in the middle of the Via 2 platform, but on a separate track further to the right. At the Cuenca station, there is no taxi stand, and no cabs waiting. You have to call for a cab from the phone to the right of the ticket booths, or else ask a café or restaurant to call for you. In addition to the Museum of Abstract Art, the Fondation Museum in the old city is truly excellent.
Madrid: It’s easy to get from the railway station to the [Plaza del] Sol stop; only four stops intervene. The Zarzuela theater is just four blocks away. They’re closed Sunday and Monday, and the Zarzuela season doesn’t start till May 25. Allow two days for the Prado, giving yourself a break to look at something else each day.
Sevilla: The Cathedral has magnificent treasures and many good paintings. The Flamenco performance we saw was disappointing and expensive (33 euros each), with toneless bellowing or wailing from the singers, and monotonous foot-stamping from the dancers, as well as virtuosic but hammering accompaniments on the guitars—altogether, heavy, like Spanish food. Try the Spanish Cultural Center, with nightly performances of flamenco at 9, for 14 euros. Despite Rick Steeves’ opinion, the Castle of King Pedro the Cruel, the central wing of the Alcázar, is worth three stars. Magnificent Moorish architecture.
Larry and Marjorie Porter in East Lansing, MI USA 05/09/2008 The Hotel Plaza Mayor, in Madrid, also has two apartments, located about a block from the hotel. We stayed in the larger, one-bedroom unit. The other is a studio. We had a decent-sized br with a comfortable bed, a good bathroom, a fully equipped kitchen which included a washing machine, and a good-sized living room with a dining area. The sofa makes up into another double bed. Our friends, who shared the apartment with us, reported that it was perfectly comfortable. The rent was 100 euros/night, split in half, the cheapest accommodation we had during our 24 day trip. There are two Corte Ingles department stores nearby with supermarkets in their basements, making it easy to pick up fixings for meals, which, again, helps with the budget. Note that the price may vary some with the season as well as with the number of people and length of stay. The people who run the hotel are extremely helpful. Another good hotel deal that we found is the Macia Real de La Alhambra in Granada. It's a modern 4* hotel, very close to the Alhambra and good if you arrive by car. It has its own underground garage. We rode a bus (1 euro) into the center of town in about 10 minutes. We paid just 80 euros and had lots of amenities. Breakfast is extra, but quite good and well worth the price (9 euros?). Be careful not too get one of the other Macia Real hotels, as they are not nearly so highly rated. Rosalyn Haberkern in Berkeley, CA USA 05/07/2008 Restaurant OVNI in Barcelona at Via Laietana 32 Great price and food and everything included. Much much better than others like it - for eg. Fresc Co. F. & C. Weiss in Victoria, BC Canada 05/03/2008 A few Sundays ago, we found a nice little family restaurant in Sitges. Els Arcs (C/ de les Parellades, 50; 93-811-20-26) is not far from the beach. For lunch I had a large piece of melon w/ several slices of jamon serrano, delicious grilled lamb chops with vegetables and fries, and flan for 10.95 euros. I also had a glass of red wine, but I can't remember if that was included. You can also walk up and purchase ice cream to go. Linda Durfee in Morgantown, WV USA and Barcelona SPAIN 04/28/2008 I just wanted to say that this is the first time I've ever bought and traveled with a guidebook, Spain 2008. It's the best pre-travel purchase I've ever made. Thank you, Rick! Robert in Arlington, VA USA 04/18/2008 I am not organized today so may submit again. I saw an article in the SF Chronicle "Europe Spring Preview" The Euro exchange these last 4 weeks was terrible. We naturally did the things I read in this ariticle and it still hurt. Helpful to reevaluate discount city cards with the cost going up some of the ones not recommended may change? Sommer in Santa Rosa, CA USA 03/26/2008 I'd like to recommend another Accomodation not in Rick's Guides. It is Casa das Oliveiras just outside of Silves Portugal in the Algarve region. 8300-044 Monte de Vala / www.casas-das-oliveiras.com. Hosts Bill Reed and his wife were super nice. Bill loves to chat, and has plenty of travel tips too. They serve a nice breakfast and they have a large patio and pool also. This B&B is a bit inland, so we spent two nights at A Mare on the coast and two nights here and it was the perfect combo. Different vibe, but both very peaceful and quiet with great hosts. Nice spot for trips to hill towns like Monchique and Alte. I'd love for Rick to include this place in his guides. Off-season it was 40 euro a night, how can you beat that. Secondly, If Rick gives you a tip on buying tickets, avoiding long lines, etc. Take his advice and you'll be glad you did. Pablito in Minneapolis, MN USA 03/26/2008 Seville tapas: Levies San Jose Cafe and Bar in Barrio Santa Cruz. Great food, great English speaking staff, and an English translation of their menu. Gregg Maxwell in Grapevine, TX USA 03/21/2008 Comment: I always used Fodors for my trips but this time brought both Rick's Spain and Fodors Spain. I ended up using Rick's exclusively since he simplifies the self-guided tours and the waling tours - his hand drawn tour maps of cathedrl=als and neighborhoods were great! From now on it will be Rick's books only! Granada experience for tickets: We bought tickets for Alhambra right at the Alhambra ticket window on March 15. We arrived via bus from Seville and called for tickets from the bus station but all tickets were gone. So we went staight to the place via cab (about 15 euros) and they had many ticketd still available and we got four of them for the same day - heard someone there on line get annoyed because they could NOT buy tickets that day for a future date, so be aware -! Then we walked down the hill and got a room at Hostal Britz at the bootm of the hill (Gomez - Plaza Nueva intersection, as in the book)! Bob in Dallas, TX USA 03/20/2008 Toledo - the cheesy train - it costs 4 euros now (March 17, 2008 ). Four of us took it and it went too fast to get good pictures and never slowed down. We felt the 16 euros total might have been better used to hire a cab to take us on the same route, stopping on the overlook across the gorge so we could get out and take good pictures and admire the view a little longer. So, for groups of three or four, a cab might be a better bet than the train. The cathedral in Seville was rated 2 'triangles', but it seemed to warrant three. The Giraldi tower view was breathtaking (and it was included in the price of admission), the treasury includes that magnificent crown and the world's largest pearl, AND we get to stand next to the remains of Christopher Columbus! AND the best is they let us take photos - while the 3-triangle cathedral in Toledo did not allow any photos - bummer!) Bob in Dallas, TX USA 03/20/2008 Leganes- A small suburban town south of Madrid( about 7 miles) has a cheap, wonderful hotel called Tryp Leganes hotel. 10 minute walk to Renfe train with Metro connections at Atocha. ( 20 minutes) Universidad Avenida 7, Leganes Mary Spangenberg in PHOENIX, Ar USA 03/19/2008 For visiting the Prado in Madrid, get a reservation/ticket in advance. You can go to their website and buy a ticket with a time and then just walk in the line for individuals with reservations. Otherwise you wait in a long line for tickets and then another line for getting in. Just go to any internet cafe - they are all over -- an print your ticket. Best thing we discovered. Bill Jackson in Elk Grove, CA USA 03/13/2008 1. In the "Near Ronda" section (p431 in the 2006 book), you mention a place outside Ronda which makes a good base. We found another one: Hotel Bandolero, in Juzcar, about 20km south. Juzcar is one of a string of tiny white towns on a very scenic road which makes a loop around a big mountain massif south of Ronda. The hotel is in a scenic spot, with trails and birdwatching opportunities beginning right at the hotel. The partners who run the hotel include an American (David) who makes a good contact about local culture, and Ivan, a Spaniard who is an extremely accomplished chef and who also speaks good English. The food is fabulous - big breakfasts, fine dinners, and they will pack a snack lunch on request. Free internet, and good services in the hotel. We think 'back door' travelers would have a fine stay there. http://www.hotelbandolero.com/ 2. The small road around the Serrania de Ronda is very scenic, and Ivan recommended a visit to a charming white hamlet named Genilguacil. It's about an hour drive from either Juzcar/Bandolero or from Ronda. The special thing about this town is that it is FULL of public art. Artists are invited every year, apparently, and they leave a piece of art behind for the town. It is entrancing to walk around Genalguacil. In addition, the streets and the one plaza space in front of the church are beautifully paved. The whole place is an integral work of art. Wonderful! http://www.visitcostadelsol.com/content/view/388/205/ http://www.seralgenal.com/Genalguacil.html Dick and Marjy in Fiddler, WA USA 03/08/2008 Benasque - beautiful 14th century town touristed by Spanish and French. Cobbled streets and squares with multiple good and inexpensive dining and accommodation options. Easy to challenging hikes through and above a restricted access valley (park buses only) with the highest peak in Pyrennees (the Aneto). Benasque is half way between the Basque region and Barcelona and was a definite highlight of our trip to Spain. DM in Denver, CO USA 02/24/2008 The wonderful and diverse designs of the buildings in Barcelona. I spent a whole day going in and out of some great places. Barcelona is a vibrant, creative city, giving more that Madrid in my opinion. Tan Milang in Nashville, TN USA 02/22/2008 I spent 6 super weeks in Spain & Portugal last May-June. Before departing, I was skeptical- really didn't think I would enjoy it. I was bowled over at every turn. I loved the history. It's a trip that keeps on giving long after it has ended. This has never happened to me before. I'm a Sr., travel alone, Rick Steves style. Liz in Boerne, TX USA 02/19/2008 Bilbao had only the Guggenheim and some places to sleep, mentioned in Spain 2007. There were no particular places to eat mentioned in the book. It might help to plan for a trip there. Josh Hanz in Frisco, TX USA 01/26/2008 We really enjoyed the guided tour of Hospital de La Santa Creu i Sant Pau in Barcelona; a great example of modernisme architecture, and only a few blocks from La Sagrada Famila. Kathy Koegel in Madison, WI USA 01/16/2008 As a college student studying abroad and wanting to travel cheaply, these books were amazing! They are the best travel books out there! Not only are they completely accurate, but the self guided tours were a great way to get to see the sights without having to pay anything extra. I used not only the Spain book, for Morocco as well, but also the book on Italy and Europe Through the Backdoor. I will not use any other guid book out there! Thanks Rick Steve's for helping make my travel through Europe go smoothly and be able to see everything I wanted to see without going broke!! Mary in Willow, AK USA 01/13/2008 We really enjoyed Adventurous Appetities tapas tour in Madrid. Our expat guide Heather was so informative and helpful! She knew exactly what the speciality of each bar was, which allowed us to try things we never would have thought to order. Highly recommended!! http://www.adventurousappetites.com/ Karis in Cross Plains, WI USA 01/04/2008 We found a terrific spot to stay in Parauta, Spain-- one of the White Villages located about 12km south of Ronda. The place is called Casas de la Parauta and it consists of several renovated homes or apartments. The renovations were done in 2007 so everything is new and freshly painted. Parauta is a great refuge from the tourist rush of Ronda but you must have a car to get there, and you must like the charm and quiet nature of a small town. There is just one bar and one restaurant but both offer good food at very reasonable prices. Richard Bendix in Newcastle , WA USA 01/03/2008 My husband and I just returned from a two week trip to Spain and Portugal and Rick's guide was invaluable. In Seville, we stayed at the Samay Sevilla hostel (Av. Menendez pelayo 13, 41004 Sevilla, Spain, +34 955 100 160) near the Barrio Santa Cruz. The double room with bath cost USD 35 per person. Bright hostel with very clean rooms. Also Habanita (Callejon Golfo 3, 41004 Sevilla, Spain, +34 954 220 202)was a nice bar-restaurant with great veggie options. In Granada, we stayed at El Clandestino (Mirador de Rolando street nº16) close to Jardines del Triunfo square. While it is a a 15 min walk from Plaza Neuva, this hostel is clean, inexpensive (USD 25 per person for a double room with bath) and has great terrace views. Uma Murthy in Blacksburg, VA USA 01/03/2008 Valencia! You hardly mention it in the guidebook and it is a jewel of a city. We were fortunate to have local friends as guides but it has an old city, great paella and other restaurants, the fabulous Palau de la Music and great beaches. I'm surprised you don't write about it more. Robert Perry in Hingham, MA USA 01/01/2008 El Sabor nightclub in Salamanca where Olga-a beautiful and friendly Salsa dancer--teaches nightly one hour Salsa lessons for 8 euros. Hotel Rector in Salamanca had beautiful rooms, free internet service. Great breakfast and friendly staff. Marie Lavendier in Unionville, Ct USA 12/14/2007 A unique English-language wine school in Madrid! Planeta Vino offers English-language wine tastings in our charming wine classroom in central Madrid. We offer our customers a fun, informative and interactive introduction to the amazing wines of Spain. We also offer wine and food matchings and day trips to premium wineries near Madrid. Web: www.planetavino.net Email: maryoconnor@planetavino.net Tel: 34 91 310 2955 Adress: Calle MOnte Esquinza 24, 5C, Madrid 28010 Mary O'Connor in Madrid, Spain 11/20/2007 We liked the Barcelona restaurant recommended by EasyJet's magazine. Can Culleretes at Carrer d'En Quintana 5. We liked their Zarzuela and lunch set menu. It's filled with local customers in lunch time. In Madrid, we tried the restaurant recommended by our hotel's clerk and liked it so much that we went there two nights in a row. It's called El Pajar, Luna, 3, Estrella, 4, 28004 Madrid. Waiters don't speak much English but are very friendly and helpful. The front windows are actually their refrigerator. Ping Wang in Lausanne, Switzerland 11/11/2007 We had an unexpected flight problem (Air France on strike didn't help) and had to stay 2 extra nights in Madrid. With no real idea, we stopped at the information both in the airport. Obviously we're not experienced or well prepared travelers. The woman was helpful and got us rooms at the Neptuno, a small hotel near Puerta del sol. We paid 90 Euro a night. Free breakfast was included. The hotel had been renovated recently and was clean and up to date. The room was small but it was a great location. I can't compare it to other accomodations in the area, but we were satisfied to say the least. The staff spoke very passable english (mainly students) and were very nice and helpful. We ended up having the time to do the Tapas crawl and it was a lot of fun. larry in richmond, va USA 11/05/2007 My wife and I just returned from a 13 day trip through Andalusia. We spent 2 1/2 days each in Seville and Granada. In retrospect, I think that you only need 1 1/2 days in each of these cities. In Granada, we got up early and visited the Alhambra, ate lunch and had a short siesta, visited the cathedral and Royal Chapel when it opened again at 4:00, walked up to the San Nicolas Viewpoint, wandered some of the streets in the Albayzin and had a nice dinner in one of the plazas. We had a hard time finding much of interest the following day and wished we had checked left earlier. for Seville, if you arrive around noon I think you can easily visit the cathedral and Alcazar, get lost in the Barrio Santa Cruz, go to a flamenco show, and even throw in a city tour by Concepcion Delgado in 1/12 days. I think the extra 2 days could be better spent visiting other places in Andalusia. Peter Oliver in Salem, OR USA 11/01/2007 In Barcelona, we stayed at Studios Pelayo Guest House which is only 2 blocks from Plaza and very close to all the metro stops and supermarket. Room included mini-kitchen (refrigerator, microwave, stove-top) and was in the $$ range for our party of 3. Owner extremely helpful and speaks excellent English. Highly recommend. www.studiospelayo.com, info@studiospelayo.com c/o Carrer Pelai Also known as Apartaments Tasmania Renee Jones in Clinton, Wa USA 10/18/2007 I am a Rick Steves fan and have used his books for many years and for all our travels. We just returned from 2 1/2 weeks in Spain and your guidebook on Spain was an indispensible asset. I have a marvelous addition however. While in Barcelona we thoroughly enjoyed a full day wine tour of the Pinedes region. We utilized Elmolitours - the owner and guide is Paddy. Here is the website Carol Cohen in Rockville, MD USA 10/16/2007 Over the years, we have found that maps, especially in Spain, to be out of date re highway/road numbering. So, we've missed many a turn while searching for the number - and not the NAME of the next town. When in doubt, we go for the name of the (next) town on the sign, not the number. Don Karpen in Talent, OR USA 10/16/2007 We spent 4 days in Gijon to attend a wedding. Although there is not a lot to see there as far as historical places, there is a very nice beach with a long promenade the length of it. We were there Oct. 4-Oct. 7th and surfers were out every day. The ride south to Madrid from Gijon was very beautiful--like driving through the Alps almost. We stayed at the ABBA Playa Gijon, which is new and 100 Euros a day. We also took a day trip north of Segovia, having a fabulous lunch in Sepulveda--baby lamb. Can't remember the name of it, but if you enter the Plaza Mayor, go to the right top corner where there is a diagonal street off it. The restaurant is just a few steps off the square, and it has columns in front of it. We were treated to a generous pitcher of an excellent liqueur, courtesy of the house! Rebecca W. Sheppard in Fort Worth, Tx USA 10/15/2007 The CAVES in Nerja were spectacular! Would definitely give them 2 stars (instead of 1) and if the concerts were more frequent/available, I would go with 3 stars!
Also, your travel expert told me I didn't need a reservation on the train from Bilbao -> Salamanca. The Eurail Pass people said the same thing, so I didn't confirm in Spain. As it turns out, I almost missed the train because it was FULL! After that, I was getting a reservation for EVERY TRAIN in Spain!!!
All of our economy hotels were willing to hold a quart of milk for us in their refrigerator. This enabled us to buy breakfast food and have a significant breakfast in our room before heading out each morning! I also brought protein powder (light!), which was very helpful in managing nutritional needs. Robert Turner in San Francisco, CA USA 10/13/2007 Sunotel Central in Barcelona - newly built, clean and centrally located. Gran Via De las Cortes Catalanas 570, 08011 Barcelona, telf: 34 93 452 73 74
Restaurant Guito in Barcelona right outside metro Urgell on Gran Via De las Cortes Catalanas. Great food and service. Dmitry USA 10/12/2007 Many things in Spain seemed to be under construction or being renovated. This was frustrating. We did not get to see some of the art we had planned on but did see other stuff. Stay patient! PATRICIA in KINGSTON, MA USA 10/10/2007 The Prado is still free on Sundays, but go early or you will have to deal with about a million tour groups. Also, you need more than half a day to see El Escorial and the Valley of the Fallen. We thought it would be plenty of time and were rushing around trying to see it all. Definitely worth the trip if you are around Madrid. Bethany USA 10/02/2007 Los Gallos Flamenco in Seville was excellent. Very talented dancers and musicians. It was very entertaining and was recommended by the locals as a more authentic Flameco! Tiffany Harris in Birmingham, MI USA 09/25/2007 I would urge readers to go to Murillo entrance to the Prado as the entrance of first resort (it is sort of the backdoor). We went in the Goya entrance, but had to leave around 11:30. We returned aroun 12:30 and the lines were huge. We went to the "backdoor" and there were about 15 people in line. I would urge everyone to go there first. Also we thought Mijas in the mountains overlooking the Costa del Sol was well worth the visit. We also thought that the Sinagoga de Santa Maria la Blanca deserved a "try hard to see." We all thought that was the second best site in Toledo. Neil Worden in Alexandria, VA USA 09/05/2007 Re Madrid Metro. There is now a One Euro surcharge for coming to or leaving from the airport on the Metro.. Perry King in Denver, CO USA 08/31/2007 A couple items. First, I agree with the most recent person who posted - our laptop was stolen right when we were taking our bags into our apartment in Madrid. Be sure to have someone watch the bags at all times until they are in your apartment and the door is closed!
Regarding a discovery - we had a wonderful bike tour with Bravobike. Highly recommended. Website: www.bravobike.com Arnie Greenfield in Boston, MA USA 08/26/2007 Someone said they thought the guidebooks overplayed the crime. I disagree. My 19-year-old son, who was studying in Spain, was pickpocketed in Madrid and then robbed in Bennicassim. A classmate had her laptop stolen in the Madrid airport. They were trying to be careful but it goes to show you can't let your guard down.
Restaurant tip: If you tired of tapas, try The Wok in Madrid which specialized in Asian/Thai food. They brought a full pitcher of ice water and didn't charge for it. Food was excellent and reasonable (8 euro for Pad Thai). It was two blocks from Puerta del Sol and steps from Seville metro. Lynn R in Morgantown, WV USA 08/12/2007 In Barcelona: The Museu d'Historia de Catalunya. If you like history, this museum gives you insight into the reasons why Catalonians are Spanish. Exhibits had English, Spanish and Catalonian markers so it was easy to follow. I see that Rick is doing a Barcelona show this fall--I hope he includes this. http://www.en.mhcat.net/
I wish I had made copies of the maps as suggested by another poster. Next time I may even laminate them. I didn't like fumbling for maps all the time.
Lynn R in Morgantown , WV USA 08/12/2007 Please add the El Soplao Caves in Cantanbria; Excellent! http://www.elsoplao.es/ In Barcelona: Add the restuarant next to Les Quinze Nits - I think it was better; Taxidermiste on Placa Reial AUSTURIAS is wonderfull - visit La Franca beach & town of Panes, Hotel Covadonga, add more on Oviedo -very nice city. Madrid restaurants; Las Carianas downstairs! LYNN BURGIN in DALLAS, TX USA 08/05/2007 In Santiago de Compostela: San Francisco Hotel Monumento. A bit of a splurge at 110 Euros/ night (double), but a lovely restored convent with adjacent church, museum, and peeks at the archeological foundation. Monks still live in parts of the building. Very friendly, accomodating staff.Lovely, modern rooms and baths. In Madrid: Adventurous Appetites. A fun-filled, entertaining, and delicious evening tour of tapas bars. Madrid history, key sites, cultural info, and introduction to unique and tasty foods and drinks. Run by two young British guys who made the four of us feel like we were out with a local friend. Great fun; good value. www.adventurousappetites.com Marcy Nicklas in Frederick, MD USA 07/23/2007 In Toledo there is a great Damasquinado shop run by a husband and wife. He makes the jewelry in the front of the shop. They are wonderfully friendly and helpful. The shop is ATAUJIA on Calle Alfonso X, El Sabio. James in Baton Rouge, LA USA 07/16/2007 the new Barajas airport!Amazing architecture and it's so quiet inside! Just make sure you allow enough time to walk to your gate-it's a big airport ANDREW FORSTER in CORAL GABLES, FL USA 07/16/2007 In the town of Alhama de Granada, great restaurant called Seguirea, run by Paco, a retired Flamenco singer. Fantastic food, great atmosphere, patio overlooking a floodlit gorge. Paco is delightful. Debra Iles in Boston, Ma USA 07/08/2007 Before you leave on your trip, make photo copies of the self-guided tours RS gives so you don't have to carry around the whole book while you are touring a building/site.
Aziz is a wonderful tourguide in Tangers, Morocco, but I recommend contacting him well in advance of your trip. He does take a while to respond to your requests for a tour. I HIGHLY recommend him though! Lindsey in Arlington, VA USA 06/29/2007 BEST BEACH I lived six months in Granada and the best beach I found was San Jose, near Almeria and Cabo de Gata. Long stretches of white sand and clear water beaches (yes, keep walking and you will find more) against the dry desert. Breathtaking. In June the water is plenty warm (though the locals may disagree) and even the first beach nearly empty. I understand it fills up come July/August, but locals mentioned other beaches nearby that would remain less populated even in the height of the season. I'm told the best time to visit is September: the weather and water are still very warm, but with school back in session and the tourist season ending, not nearly as many people go. The nearby town is perfect for picking up groceries for the day. Unfortunately, buses from Almeria are few; it is best to rent a car. With a good map (usually provided by the rental car agency) and the existing signs, finding it is not a problem.
CAR RENTALS A tip: one- and two-day rentals will charge you per day and for mileage. This is reasonable for small amounts of driving, but will add up for long-distance daytrips. Renting for three or more days is more economically efficient is this situation.
BUS SCHEDULES & INFORMATION To reserve bus tickets online, www.continental-auto.es is helpful. Travel within Spain is, in my experience, relatively inexpensive and easiest by bus. Purchasing tickets online is usually a Euro or two more, but worth it during high season. In off months, you should be able to get tickets at the station without a problem. Katie Gallagher in St. Paul, MN USA 06/25/2007 Yerba Buena. Amazing vegetarian restaurant in Madrid! It's not easy being vegetarian in Madrid but I came across a gourmet Spanish vegetarian place. The best meal I had in Spain. It felt so good to be able to choose from an entire menu instead of having to settle for a combination of side dishes, etc. Address: Bordadores, 3. tel.915 480 811. www.yerbabuena.com. Located just up the street from Iglesia Gines. Jessica in Rome, IT USA 06/22/2007 Restaurant "Gobolem". A little out of the tourist path (which one kay consider a blessing), but a short cab drive from the center. Fantastic roasted lamb. Julian Romea 5 Phone: 91 553 98 51 John Petrovic in Portage, MI USA 06/20/2007 Cadiz! I just returned from a trip to Cadiz and am surpised your book did not include it. It is a charming town. Much like many of the others (Cinque Terre, Collioure, and others you cover.) Great beach, tons of lovely shops and good places to eat. Please consider adding it. Carol Fink in Tampa , Fl USA 06/17/2007 We found a great guide in Seville. A real find - friendly and extremely knowledgeable. Antonio Doblas - Seville Official Tour Guide Phone: 34-954909741 - Cell: 34-616253798 http://es.geocities.com/guiassevilla Met us at our hotel with smile. Well trained and we had a great time with him Bernard Nash in Dix Hills, NY USA 06/12/2007 Seville: Stayed in Murillo aparments, Reinoso 6 Barrio de Santa Cruz. Paid 121 EUR/night for a 2 bedroom apartment. Fantastic location, plus much more comfortable than a hotel. Tel: 954 21 09 59 / 93 Fax: 954 21 96 16 apartamentos@hotelmurillo.com John Petrovic in Portage, MI USA 06/06/2007 The Alpujarra region of southern Spain is in the Sierra Nevada Mountains and provides excellent walking and hiking opportunities. We used Jonathan Lord of All Ways Spain to arrange our accomodations, hikes, and transportation in the Alpujarra region. He is based in Granada and is very professional and knowledgeable. His phone number is (34) 958 223 766. His website is www.allwaysspain.com. If you have two or three extra days in Spain and want a break from urban crowds and noise, check out the Alpujarra region. Valerie Stahl in Austin, Tx USA 06/05/2007 Mallorca! I was disapointed that this location wasn't in your book! Just got back from there and thought it was awesome! Linda in Healdsburg, ca USA 05/25/2007 Madrid - The book was great for maximizing my short time in Madrid. Would not recommend the Julia Tours night time tour, the guide was incredibly rude and unhelpful. The best part of my trip was running into a nighttime segway tour with MadSegs - Antony and Marta were fabulous tour guides with small groups, personal attention and sites you would never get to on the tour bus, plus they present everyone with a cd-rom filled with photos from the tour. Highly recommend their tour www.madsegs.com. Yvette in Silver Spring, MD USA 05/22/2007 Great Hotel to consider for Barcelona - Hotel Antibes, 394 C/ Disputacio
We stayed here for 2 nights in April, 2007. This hotel was a phenomenal find--a true 3-star experience in a 2-star hotel. The front desk staff was helpful and spoke excellent English.
The hotel is on a quiet side street just a 5-minute walk from either the Sagrada Familia or the nearest metro stop, Monumental. There are also many cafes and restaurants within walking distance.
Three us of (myself, my wife, and our adult daughter) were travelling together and had a lovely triple room which was spotlessly clean. The beds, furnishings, TV, and furniture were all new, including lovely hardwood floors and air conditioning.
For convenience, we chose to take our breakfast at the hotel and enjoyed it very much--especially the freshly-squeezed orange juice.
This was one of the most economically-priced places I could find in Barcelona and it did not disappoint. I would most definitely stay here again. Henry DeVries in Grand Rapids, MI USA 05/20/2007 I wonder why Barcelona isn't included in your DVDs? Or have I overlooked it somehow?
Sometimes I feel the warnings about pick-pocketing, etc. could be a little intimidating to an inexperienced traveler. I use common sense, your suggestions, and just don't worry about it (I am a single female and travel alone.) What works best for me is to use a diaper pin to pin those travel wallet things to the inside of my jeans or jacket (sewing them in is even better). I keep my passport and credit cards with me all the time. I keep a few dollars where I can easily access them, but this system works so well. [Editor's Note: Good news: Rick is filming a brand new episode of this TV show in Barcelona this week. Look for it on public television this fall.] Judith Beck in Perkasie, PA USA 05/07/2007 For those trying to find bus schedules, they should check on the website for movelia.com and that provides all the bus schedules for all the different lines. L. Chen in Pacific Palisades, CA USA 05/06/2007 We experienced difficulty making reservations by phone at Hotel Macia Plaza in Granada, Spain. When we called, an English speaking man took the reservation information, issued confirmation #11, but did not want a credit card. We called a second time to confirm the 5 nights reservation. When we arrived at the hotel we were told we had a 3 night reservation and that they were full for the weekend. When they discovered that (prior to calling them) we had made and then cancelled a reservation online at their hotel, they informed us that we could stay over the weekend so long as we paid the higher rate charged by the online service. They refused to give us the Rick Steves discount. Sue McCauley in Portland, OR USA 05/04/2007 Barcelona Spain - I thought it was an extremely tourist-friendly city. Very helpful tourist kiosks in several central locations. The city-recommended hop-on/off busses were excellent. Covered three different routes, never a long wait at pick up spots. Reasonably priced. A great walking city. None of the Gaudi sites should be missed! Judith Beck in Perkasie, PA USA 05/04/2007 For cat lovers, you've got to check out the cats in Retiro Park, in Madrid. They live around the lake, and local women take food to them daily. They attracted quite a bit of attention from people when I was there--the whole scene was absolutely charming! Melissa in Hart, OR USA 05/01/2007 For Granada, buy Bono-Turistico city passes in advance online. I tried buying Alhambra tickets online but was told that they were sold out for the days we were in Granada. Accidentally I came across a website that sells the Bono-Turistico city passes. This pass covers not only the Alhambra but many other Granada sights and includes nine bus transfers. I tried it and got my first choice of times for visiting the Alhambra. The web site is http://caja.caja-granada.es/Apli/bononuevo/main.htm. Joe Recer in Hartland, WI USA 04/25/2007 We had a wonderful experience buying train tickets at the ticket office in Antocha Station in Madrid. First of all take a "numerical order" ticket like in a bakery (now serving #69) Sensibly, ahead of walking up to the ticket counter, I wrote the prefered dates of travel, destinations and times. Then I asked the lady if she spoke English. She said no and I said I didn't speak Spanish. However she couldn't be nicer. Within 5 minutes we purchased roundtrip tickets from Madrid to Toledo and then our one-way tickets from Madrid to Barcelona with a 1 hour layover in Madrid. It couldn't have been a more wonderful experinece. She was very kind, gracious and generous. I wish I knew how to thank her better for her kindness and help. So, Thank you "blonde, middle-aged lady in Madrid train station ticket office" for helping a coulpe of confused tourists and making it so easy for us. Your kindness made our trip to Spain so wonderful. Dan Stoddard in San Diego, CA USA 04/23/2007 We stayed 8 nights in an apartment in Grazalema which is a wonderful center for hiking. Note that there is a spiffy, new, well laid-out botanical garden in El Bosque which is another pueblo blanco. The views are magnificent from the garden. El Bosque is worth visiting. As is Benaocaz. Note too that there is inexpensive bus service between Grazalema and surrounding villages (about a euro one way). Paul Alper in St. Paul, MN USA 04/19/2007 As with all foreign speaking countries, do yourself a favor and learn a bit of the language before leaving on your trip (looking at a phrasebook on the plane doesn't count). My girlfriend and I had an absolutely fantastic time, which I'm sure was partly due to the fact that we always tried to speak Spanish, even when the locals would respond to us in English (for our benefit). The same cannot be said for the endless number of American/English/German tourists we spotted in restaurants/bars who never bothered to learn or speak a word of the language, and as a result, had a clumsy (read: not fun) time and were treated very poorly by the staff. It is probably safe to say that those who have a poor time on a vacation are generally those who expect the country to adapt to themselves, not the other way around. CH in Tampa, FL USA 04/16/2007 Just returned from two weeks in Spain, spent mostly in the northern Galician and Basque Country areas. After arriving in Madrid I checked into the La Perle Asturiana hostel located within in a stone's throw from the Plaza Mayor in the Plaza Santa Cruz. Pretty spartan accomodations, but considering the price and location there is no major complaint.
A previous trip sent me to the Prado which is overwhelming in its presentation so I sought out other museums and found the gem to bew the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. This art venue has the most outstanding collection of Miro, Dali and Picasso that I have ever seen in Europe. It is well worth a see.
This trip I squeezed in a day trip to Segovia which is worth the time if you have it to spare.
For cheap eats near the Puerto del Sol you cannot beat Fresc Co. For 10 Euro it simply cannot be beat.
From Madrid I caught a 7 Euro flight to Santiago where I stayed at the Hostal Mapoul, the best bargain for single in Spain at 25 Euro per night. When in Santiago definitely eat at Restaurante Casa Manola, which has to be the best value on the planet! Two course dinners for 7 Euro and the portions are huge! This price includes bread and drink (excluding alcohol). It is a convenient walk from anywhere in Santiago.
For a chance to speak English do visit the Cafe Terra NOva. While it is no longer owned by Matt, Troy and Scott it is owned by another American couple who are very gracious and accomodating to their American visitors.
After renting a car I made a bee line to Leon on the recommendation of someone. For the most part this is a town that could be excluded from anyone's initerary since there is not much there. The cathedral is awesome at night, all lit up, but its interior is not up to the standard of the typical Spanish cathedral.
My drive also took me to San Sebastian, which is a must see location in northern Spain. Good food and a cheap stay at Pension Anne put me in the right frame of mind to visit this beautiful city. Not much to see but for pure relaxation on your trip to northern Spain this city cannot be beat.
On my way back toward central Spain I stopped in Bilbao to visit the Guggenheim and stayed at the Vista Alegre, a very nice business hotel very near a subway stop. While disappointed in the exhibit space at the museum, the building itself is the main attraction and meant to be savored. Do take advantage of the free audio guide to get the most out of the tour.
My trip ended by spending a significant amount of time in Burgos, which used to be the capital of Castille y Leon and is significant as having the third largest cathedral in all of Spain. My reasons for visiting Burgos were personal but to get a true flavor of this part of the country you cannot beat the atmosphere, food and sights in and around the city. Tony Ambrose in Louisville, KY USA 04/07/2007 Upon arriving in Madrid 3/24/07 on a very warm afternoon, and dragging our roll-aboards behind us, we made it only 1/2 way up the cobblestoned streets until we saw the Hotel Santander (address - Echegaray 1; email -info@hotelsantandermadrid.com) and decided to go no farther. Very fortunately, it was wonderfully clean and comfortable, furnished in a Provencal manner, and Jose the desk clerk was an absolute fount of historical background info! Prices from 60-90 euros. On the same trip, we found Las Carboneras, a flamenco restaurant on Plaza del Conde de Miranda; email - www.tablaolascarboneras.com. The performance was fantastic, but the service was out of this world. So professional, attentive, friendly. BW in Federal Way, WA USA 03/31/2007 Even though I met many nice, courteous people, I also met as many rude, not helpful, and obnoxious people. No one seemed to know it is rude to cough in your face! I have thought people in US were bad but Spanish folk take the cake. No one I heard or saw even tried to cover a cough or sneeze. Needless to say,after two weeks of dodging peoples coughing, I came down with the worst cold I have had for years. Unfortunately this made my last four days, in Madrid no less, really difficult. LL in Levittown, pa USA 03/29/2007 Valencia, Not in Rick's book but it is worth adding. Is is a lot more manageable than Madrid or Barcelona and has a lot of quality sites. It is easily worth a couple of days. Jeff in Tempe, AZ USA 03/26/2007 Sevilla - Restaurant Horacio on Calle Antonia Diaz in the Plaza Nueva area was recommended by the staff at the Hotel Maestranza and was the best place we ate in Sevilla.
Michael McDaniel in Atlanta, GA USA 03/25/2007 Just returned from Spain (3/17/07). They are installing traffic radars throughout the country and if you are caught, the fines are hefty. Driving in Madrid is highly discouraged unless familiar with European driving laws/habits. Freddie J. Negron in Davie, FL USA 03/18/2007 Touring the Prado Art Museum in Madrid was especially enjoyable after reading the book titled I, Juan de Pareja by Elizabeth Barton de Trevino. This 180 page paperback is a New York Times Best Juvenile Book of the Year as well as a Newbery Medal Book. Even though I am well past the age of being a juvenile, I found the historical fiction delightful. Juan is a slave of the great Spanish painter Diego Velazquez. The book includes Velazquez's relationships with Rubens and Murillo. It reveals how Velazquez was knighted in 1658 by King Philip IV and thus the Cross of Santiago was painted in red on the Velazquez self portrait in one of the most famous paintings in the Prado, "Las Meninas". jw mo USA 02/23/2007 Rental Cars : Granada (February 2007) Ditto regarding another writers suggestion, "see the Alhambra (Palacious Nazaries) then move on" I regret that we didnt pick up our Hertz rental car before Hertz closed for siesta during the hours of 1pm and 4:30pm. Our Barcelona to Granada night train arrived at 8:40am. Our ticket time at the Alahambra was 10:30. We put our baggage in lockers at the train station and took a taxi for 5 euros to the Alahambra. We could have easily made a 10AM ticket time, allowing us enough time to see the Palacios Nazaries and taxi to the Hertz rental car location by 1pm. Take a taxi to Hertz car rental located in the Granada Hotel Center. We were blessed that they gave us a damaged small car. A small car is a must when traveling in the towns of Acros, Toledo, etc. as the streets are narrow. We took great pains to point out every ding on our rental car to the clerk when we got the car. He indicated all the damage on a sketch of a car that we submitted to a clerk when we returned the car at the Madrid airport. I think we probably added a scratch or two to the car, yet since the car already had considerable damage, we were not charged extra.Check American Express for free car insurance coverage. If you want the coverage and are not an American Express card holder, I believe it is still availabe, for a small fee - less than the fee charged by car rental companies. Salamanca Spain Tip: Read George Orwelläs 232 page paperback titled, Homage to Catalonia. It pertains to the Spanish civil war. You will likely enjoy the FREE, nothing in English, Spanish Civil War Museum in Salamanca. It is located on the same side of the street, just two doors or so down from the under rated Art Deco Museum. The Art Deco Museum contains a huge section dedicated to dolls. Be sure to pick up the English leaflet when you buy your ticket.
Salamanca Train to Fatima tip: The 4:51 am train from Salamanca to Lisbon stops at the Fatima train station around 9:30-10Am I donät recall exactly as we quickly ditched the Lisbon segment of our ticket, grabbed our bags and jumped off when we unexpectedly arrived in Fatima. The train station clerk at Fatima explained that it was 20km. from the station to the church consting 25 Euro taxi fare. We had no cash for a taxi and there are no ATM machines around the area of the train station.A taxi driver came in the train station looking for business. The train clerk translated to the taxi driver to take us to an ATM machine near the church. We arrived on Sunday morning in time for the outdoor mass. The February weather was beautiful. Even though we are Protestant, we found Fatimato be a profound experience, much more than what we had expected. The Fatima bus station is an easy 10 minute walk from the church. We took the 1:55pm bus to Nazare. The bus ticket was 4.55 Euros.This 1:55 bus also stopped at Batalha and Alcobaca which are also mentioned in the Rick Steves book. On our 17 town vacation of Spain and Portugal, our family of 3 all agree that the very best destination was Nazare, Portugal. Jan Wishau in Columbia, MO USA 02/23/2007 Be sure you know what you are ordering at outdoor cafes in Spain. Order a hamburger and that is exactly what you may get.... a HAMburger. Yes Ham LOL Joe DeVita in Surprise, AZ USA 02/13/2007 My husband and I spent three months in Salamanca for my sabbatical and we discovered two of the best places for tapas are Rua Mayor (on that same named street) and Meson Las Conchas. These are where the locals go, not university students as noted in your guidebook. This is where you can speak to locals, enjoy the best tapas and red wine in town. We became locals and visited both of these places, often speaking Spanish to the workers and becoming friends with them. Patricia Branson in Kodiak, AK USA 01/21/2007 Cafè Silenus in Barcelona (Angeles 8 tel. 933 02 26 80) a short walk from La Rambla, is small, quirky and has fabulous food elegantly presented. Opens at 9:00 PM. Mostly local crowd. Small, so make a reservation if possible. Stu Kinzler in Stamford, CT USA 01/14/2007 I would like to recommend: Ithaca Bed and Breakfast (www.villaithaca.com) as a great stop just outside of Grenada. Jeremy and Sophie were wonderful hosts, the rooms were spacious and the price very reasonable. He is British and she is French, so they have English, French and Spanish languages covered! Also, outside of Ronda, we found Hotel el Horcajo (www.elhorcajo.com) absolutely beautiful surroundings. It is between Ronda and Zahara and near Cuevas de la Pileta. Located in a valley, quiet and tranquil. We wish we could have stayed longer. Stephen in Lausanne, VD Switzerland 01/12/2007 |
