Spain 2012 Guidebook
Favorite discoveries or tips:
I am traveling with my husband and 4 children. we arrived in Madrid just a few days ago. I have your Spain Guidebook on my iPad. At night I read your book and turn what I learn into a game for the kids. for example today we went to the Royal Palace. For each room I wrote down a question for the kids to figure out while we were there. It was a great success. thanks!
Karen Connelly in Toledo, Oh USA 01/03/2012
A great tip concerning the Alhambra tickets is to order online like you recommend, but then pick up the tickets at the Tienda de la Alhambra shop in Granada’s city center on Calle Reyes Católicos nº 40. The ServiCaixa machine there is very simple and there is an attendent that helps you if you need it. BUT- the biggest benefit is that by getting the tickets in advance you do not have to walk all the way to top of the Alhambra to the ticket area. You can simply enter at the Justice Gate and be very near the Palacios Nazaries. This is a huge time saver, stress saver and leg saver.
Tim Evans in Iowa City, IA USA 12/26/2011
You can purchase or pick-up your Alhambra tickets at the Alhambra Library located on Calle Reyes Catolicos a few blocks west of Plaza Nueva.
Jamie in Eagleville, PA USA 12/11/2011
You can purchase or pick-up your Alhambra tickets at the Alhambra Library located on Calle Reyes Catolicos a few blocks west of Plaza Nueva.
Jamie in Eagleville, PA USA 12/11/2011
If you accidentally exit the wrong stop on the Madrid Metro system, if you find a nice ticket person, and show that your ticket was timestamped within 40 minutes, she/he should let you back into the metro turnstile.
Christine in San Jose, CA USA 12/01/2011
On the island of Mallorca: two lovely towns, Pollenca and Valldemossa. Both of these are away from the main city, Palma and a fine alternate. A restaurant in Llucmajor: Ca'n Tia Taleca, C/ Campos,115 - good food, well presented, resonable prices.
Ronald Reitenauer in Yucca Valley, CA USA 11/26/2011
I just came back from 2 weeks in Spain, travelling by myself on the trains. I saw police in the airport and all major train stations. I did not see any scams or was accosted by pickpockets or "romans" (gypsies), except outside the Cathedral in Granada where they were handing out rosmary as described in the book. I assume these places are entirely different in the summer. Most cab rides around town were 5-7 euros for short distances. I never felt concerned in a cab. Speaking Spanish is perferred; there were a few times I struggled. It is noce to have ercommended restaurants, but note that it take time to go find them. A] Barcelona: 1 - The Barcelona Card for mass transit is excellent. However, be aware that changing metro trains underground can require a hike up and down a lot of stairs and through long tunnels until you learn where not to transfer. Try to learn the bus sytem where you can see the City while moving around. 2 - I took a 1/2 day cooking class at Cook and Taste (info@cookandtaste.net) and highly recommend it. The trip to the market and the cooking class was a great addition. 3 - There were some Romans around the entrance to the market but under the watchful eye of everyone. Lots of police presence on La Ramblas. 4 - The Picasso Museum is a challenge to find in a beautiful old fort. As stated in Rick's book exhibits mostly his earlier work and the rooms are out of sequence. 4 - Prices for tapas near any tourist spot and all restaurants facing La Ramblas are indeed overly priced.
B] -Madrid: 1 - The Prado is overwhelming. Recommend making a plan BEFORE entering, especially during the free entry times when it is crowded and you are short on time. Add 15 minutes to entry time for dropping off backpacks and bags at the check in. The Prado floor plan map availabe in the Prado is not very good at all. Recommend downloading a map of the layout so you can find what you want to see more easily. 2 - The restaurant "lamucca" on Calle Prado 16 had great atmosphere, and great food and is a 10 minute walk up the hill from the Prado. 3 - In the Plaza Mayor, in the northeast corner is the Cafeteria Magerit. English-speaking staff very friendly; prices very reasonable; great outdoor seating. 4 - As stated in Rick's book Avril and Segovia not worth the trip unless you have extra time. In Segovia I followed Rick's advice and ate the roast pig at Jose and Maria's - absolutley delicious! Wonderful restaurant. Know that sides are not included with your meal; you order ala-carte.
C] - Cordoba - 1 - From and back to the train statoin, you can see the Mosgue and Cathedral, and roman bridge in 3 hours easily. If I had to do it again, I would have taken an early Madrid train, toured the Mosgue area and caught and early afternoon train on to Seville. 2- Rick's suggestoin to eat at Bodegas Campos was excellent - and do walk around in the back - great restaurant.
D]- Seville - 1 - I went to the Los Gallos Flamenco show as recommended in Rick's book. Excellent and highly recommended. Note what rick states is tru - this is small and intimate - not a big "las Vegas" show sa at some other venues. However, other tourists I spoke with who paid more for a 1 hr show elsewhere were not overwhelmed with their show. Los Gallos is small but a great atmosphere. 2 - For ceramics go across the river to the Triana area, on calle Antillano and surrounding streets. Cost 100 Euros to mail an 8kg package to the states, so if possible pack so you have room to bring your purchase home yourself. At the shop around the corner from the Cathedral on Rick's self-guided walk, their ceramics are more exquisit in design, but charge 200 Euros to mail the same 8kg package.
F} - Granada 1 - BEST CITY in Spain, or at least tied with Barcelona. 2 - Do not leave Spain without visiting the Alhambra. Highly recommend getting tickets in advance. Plan a minimum of 3 hrs. In the courtyard between the Fort and Palace is a small stand with coffee, beer, and some food choices, to take a break between the two sites. I was lucky to get tickets at the entrance on a Sunday morning (that was sold out the day before) as described in Rick's book. For best photo light go when the sun is low - early morning or late afternoon. Take the minibus up and enjoy a slow walk back down the hill. Due to construction I could not walk Rick's recommended path. 3 - I stayed at Rick's recommended hotel, Los Tilos on the Plaza Bib-Rambla. I showed my guide book and got free breakfast. The rooms are not that special - reserve a room on the top (4th) floor if possible. Rick is correct that you can sit on the terrace (balcony) on the 4th floor, overlooking the square below, the Cathedral, Alhambra and in my case, the snow-capped mountains in the distance. I bought wine, cheese, ham, olives and bread and enjoyed a lovely afternoon between touring up there. 4 - Recommend the trip to St. Nicholas' church. You do get perfect photo's of the entire Alhabra Fort, castle, plateau, moutains and all of Granada. Watch the time of day and position of the sun. 5- Great restaurant at St. Nicholas' with outdoor seating. It was packed the sunny Sunday I went - 6 - Every tapa bar I went to in Granada gave me free tapa's with every drink I ordered!!
G] - Valencia 1 - maybe because it was at the end of my 2 week trip that I did not explore Valencia as I did the other cities I was in. Rick's 2011 Spain Guide Book did not include Valencia and so I took the Hop On-Hop Off Tourist Bus which has a red and blue route. You can take both routes for the same cost, just change buses at the designated spots. Not too many stops on either route so it can be inconvenient, but it is an inexpesnvie way to see the City, and has a pre-recorded tour guide you can plug earphones into to hear about the site you are driving past. 2 - As an engineer I was impressed with the City of Arts and Sciences, even though most of the buildings were closed. The pictures say it all. 3 - In the placa de la reina by the Cathedral where you can get the Tourist Bus, there is an Irish Pub that serves great food (no food after 1600). The next door restaurant serves great paella for which Valencia is known for (both chicken and seafood), and great steak.
matthew bonini in chesterfield, mo USA 11/25/2011
Madrid Cathderal, adjacent to royal palace
Harriet Dufton in Easton, PA USA 11/20/2011
Las Estrellas De San Nicolas in Granada was an excellent restaurant. We watched the sunset on the Alhambra Palace from Mirador De San Nicolas and walked right next door for dinner. The food was excellent
Susan Novak in Mt. Prospect, IL USA 11/14/2011
I just love seeing other people carrying your books wherever I go. I pull the pages out for the area or attraction I'm visiting, it's easier. I also carry the phase section for food. \We had EXCELLANT crepes in the Boqueria. I did not get his name but the man is from Argentina & does many different types & serves a really good cider. He puts on a show while cooking & the crepe makes for an inexpensive & filling meal. Check it out!
Barbara Pearce in Freeport , NY USA 10/17/2011
I just love seeing other people carrying your books wherever I go. I pull the pages out for the area or attraction I'm visiting, it's easier. I also carry the phase section for food. \We had EXCELLANT crepes in the Boqueria. I did not get his name but the man is from Argentina & does many different types & serves a really good cider. He puts on a show while cooking & the crepe makes for an inexpensive & filling meal. Check it out!
Barbara Pearce in Freeport , NY USA 10/17/2011
A few Madrid restaurants that you might want to check out.
- Taberna de la Daniela, Madrid near the Museum district General Pardiñas 21, Madrid. Found this awesome lunch stop. Great tapas, friendly, reasonable priced. - Bocaito, Madrid, Calle Libertad 6, Chueca or Banco de Espana metro stops. A big wow! Filled with local charm and the food is terrific. - El Mollete, Madrid, Calle de la Bola 4. It was the perfect place for our last night in Madrid. Great tapas, helpful staff and has both tables and staff up/counter service. Go for the food and ambiance.
In Cadaques, stayed at a great hotel with a very friendly and helpful staff call Hotel Playa Sol. Worth you checking out.
Restaurant and bar in Cadaques: Nord Est along the water front. Great hip vibe with no pretense. Tapas is creative and tasty; wonderful place to grab a table and watch the sunset. I'd go back in a flash.
David/Lakeview in Chicago, IL USA 10/15/2011
Yes - accommodation in Arcos de la Fronterra, Spain. Wonderful host, views & accommodation @ www.casablues.com. Lovely location in this charming town.
gail in victoria, bc canada 10/02/2011
I was on a mission to find the best chocolate con churros in each city we visited.
Granada-Cafe Futbol, Plaza Mariana Pineda 6. They had good chocolate con churros and cafe con leche. We came back for their specialty ice cream, "Turron" (nougat). We found this place full of locals of all ages and we enjoyed eating in the outdoor cafe and people watching. they also have in indoor cafe. this cafe opened in 1903.
Barcelona- Cafe Granja Viader on Xucla 4 was excellent for chocolate con churros. we also ordered the Mato (honey and cheese). However, we found another granja on Calle Ferran called Pasteleria Granja Forn del Pi, about a block off the Ramblas. this place also serves light meals. It's bright and cheerful inside. The chocolate con churros was very good and we also had the crema catalan.
Madrid-your recommendation for Cafe San Gines off of Calle Arenal, close to Plaza del Sol, was excellent.
For Tapas/Dining: Madrid- El Caldero on Calle de las Huertas in the Barrio de las Letras. Has good paella negra (squid ink paella)
Barcelona- Quimet y Quimet on C. Poeta Cabanyes 4 (near Poble Sec) had excellent montaditos-salmon with cheese & honey, anchovies, sardine with red bell pepper, goat cheese with caviar and balsamic vinegar
Barcelona- Cal Pep on Place de les Olles 8 (La Ribera). the line was out the door by 8p.m. It's a mixture of tourists and locals, a little pricey, no menu, but the chef prepares what's fresh that day-squid, monkfish.
we had some really great eating in Spain. We found the oldest tapas bars in Sevilla and Granada the most charming and cheapest. Barcelona had more modern tapas and was the most expensive.
Maria P. Chan in SF Bay Area, CA USA 09/29/2011
Tip- learning survival phrases and sentences in Spanish and using the language was very rewarding in having the locals be very friendly and helpful to us. We had locals point out what to order at restaurants and they truly tried to help us when we were lost.
Maria P. Chan in SF Bay Area, CA USA 09/29/2011
As Jewish travelers, we are happy to visit scores and scores of churches and other Christian sites, yet we also seek out experiences that relate to our Jewish heritage. Our "find" in Barcelona is Dominique Tomasov Blinder, founder of Urban Cultours project. She led us on a fascinating tour of the Call, the old Jewish quarter of Barcelona. Here is her contact info: www.urbancultours.com; e-mail: info@urbancultours.com; also check out www.jewishspain.info.
Leslie Kreithen in Huntingdon Valley, PA USA 09/27/2011
BEWARE THE SPICE SHOP! This is a tip for those travelling to Morocco. When in Tangier we booked a private tour with Aziz, recommended in the book. We love Aziz and the tour was great....but....we ended up with one of Aziz's assistants, Omar. When I was disappointed that it wasn't Aziz, he told us he would give us a tour of Tangiers at night after sundown (it was Ramadan). When we went out during the day with Omar, he took us to a spice shop and told us not to bargain - the prices were small. Well, we got so taken up by the whole production, we ended up spending 50 Euros on spices - in Morocco! Go to the spice shop, enjoy the show, and then go back to the medina and buy the same things for pennies!
Joanne Barhite in Chelsea, MI USA 09/07/2011
We LOVED the few hours we spent in Malaga. We had been routed in to the airport there by our travel agent. We left a few hours to do an early morning tour of the old sites. The pedestrianized middle town was so welcoming after a transatlantic flight. The old architectures lit at night were beautiful. We LOVED the Alcazaba -- in retrospect my favourite of all the Moorish palaces (including those in Granada, Corboda, and Seville), and the Cathedral was one of the most welcoming we visited (including those in Granada, Cordoba, Seville, Toledo, and Segovia). I understand that there might be bigger sites elsewhere, but with a significant international airport in Malaga, I think it would be worth your while to include a few words pointing the weary traveler to the sites in Malaga.
Mary Byrne in Victoria, BC Canada 07/24/2011
Casa Fuster (hotel in Barcelona) has Jazz on Thursday evenings. A splurge , but well worth it! Reservations required.
Kris in Bellingham, wa USA 07/18/2011
I accidentally "discovered" Rick Steves onboard NCL's Library in October 2010 just before disembarking in Barcelona. Through Rick's book, I discovered the Castellars in Barcelona and just in time made it to show. Also, discovered his TV show by accident. Now I don't miss any of his broadcasts. He's amazing! Thank you, Rick!
Ro in Oceanside, NY USA 07/18/2011
Hotel Palacio de Santa Ines, Granada recepcion@palaciosantaines.com www.palaciosantaines.com
This Hotel was right by the Plaza Neuva, in front of the Alhambra with great views from our window of the Alhambra at sunset and early morning. On the edge of the Albayzin district it was full of character with very helpful staff. Perfectly placed for access to everything. Highly recommended
June in Auckland, New Zealand 07/07/2011
just read my post about the bus to and from the airport to madrid. I was not clear and want to make it more clear. it is 2 euros for the bus ride to and from the atocha train station. it is then 1 euro on the metro from/to the train station to wherever you want to go on the metro. Sol is the main square and only 3 or 4 stops from atocha so very quick. that way very little time on the metro. also, the bus runs about every 20 minutes generally, so very easy to get into and out of madrid
michael c in tempe, az USA 07/02/2011
I agree with the last poster re: the laundry. However, there are two laundrys on Leon. They are affiliated since I used a coin operated laundromat yesterday on July 1. In there, they say if you need change to go to Saigon laundry. BTW 4 euros per load to wash and 1 euro for 8 minutes drying. it took me 24 minutes to dry two loads of laundry. very very good laundry. very clean, very easy to use and usually someone there to help with any questions. also, laundry detergent is there for free to use. have been all over europe and this was by far the easiest laundromat to use. highly recommend it Also, highly recommend the airport bus to and from madrid. 2 euros to the atocha train station and then 1 euro and only a couple of stops to Sol the main part of madrid. very easy and efficient. sitting on a bus is very easy compared to fighting people and luggage in a metro
Michael C in tempe, az USA 07/02/2011
Laundry in Madrid As reported there are some changes in the laundry facilities. However, there was a laundry at the Leon 3 address. It was Saigon laundry and they had dry cleaning just down the street. Did a good job for us
Della Schnell in Fresno, CA USA 07/01/2011
Casa Batllo (one of the Gaudi houses) is offering evening receptions in the summer where for €25 (it's €18 during the day anyway) you can enjoy live music, drinks, and walk around a portion of the house including the terrace. This was an enchanting experience, and is heavily advertised at the site itself, but seemingly not online.
Meghan in Delft, Netherlands 07/01/2011
Jai Ca is a small local bar with excellent seafood near the Barcelonetta. We especially liked the razor clams, sardines (various sizes) and small clams. Although almost everything was cooked in olive oil (with either basil or parsley) or fried, it was terrific and recommended by locals to our adult son who lives in Madrid.
Lynne Dinner in Port Washington, NY USA 06/24/2011
Not yet
Cameo Jones in San Francisco, CA USA 06/21/2011
my wife and I stayed for 5 nights at La Casa Grande in ARcos de La Frontera and loved every minute. I cannot imagine a better 300 year old hotel. Being able to step outside our bedroom onto a deck overlooking a gorgeous river valley one way and churches and houses the other, goats marching along the river below, and children's voices and cocks crow coming up from the town. Easy to get down to the bus for Jerez and thence the train to Cadiz or Madrid.
stolzberg in portland , or USA 06/18/2011
The Garden Backpacker in Seville is an outstanding hostel!
Ruth Morrow in Wichita Falls, TX USA 06/07/2011
We followed your advise and joined Consepcion Delgado on her show and tell tour. She was great and the tour is a BARGAIN!!!
Norbert Fratt in Oro Valley, AZ USA 06/04/2011
In Gibraltar: a bar called "Fresh" near the entrance of Casemates Square has free wifi 24/7. A club called "Rock on the Rock" has live music and is pretty popular with the local youth. Locals are very friendly, if you are outgoing enough you can make a lot of friends in a very quickly. The apes are a little territorial in the evening so if you don't have food for them, be weary. Gibs mostly go out on Friday nights, it's pretty quiet otherwise.
Travis in Puyallup, WA USA 05/21/2011
In Cordoba, Hotel Palacete Mirador de Cordoba, Avda. de Brilliante, 5.3 km. out of Cordoba, was an excellent find! 78 euro for a double, and a beautiful setting and historic building. They have a lovely breakfast buffet included, patios, pool, tennis. Also Merida is a lovely town with some of the best Roman ruins we found. Stayed at the Hotel Rambla Emerita, Rambla Martir Sta. Eulalia 17, for 50 euro for a double. Very helpful staff and centrally located.
Debbie Harmon in Woodstock, VA USA 05/21/2011
Found a great gelato place a few blocks south of Plaza Mayor in Madrid. Sorry, don't remember the name or the street.
Greg in Ventura, CA USA 05/17/2011
Valencia, pls!
Susana Galvan in Atlanta, GA USA 05/08/2011
In Segovia,La Juderia Bar Restaurante at Calle Juderia Vieja 5 tel. 921-461-402 should be added to your recommended restaurants for their excellent food, service, and value. On a different note, we waited 2 days to try and cross from Tarifa to Tangier and finally had to give it up due to high winds and no ferries running,so readers should probably be made aware of this possibility and have an alternate plan.
Rich Zayatz in Asheville, NC USA 05/03/2011
I just wanted to share my experience of having my valuables stolen while in Barcelona so that your guide book may provide more caution for would-be tourists to Spain. While in Barcelona in April 2011, my husband and I were walking from Segrada Cathedral towards Park Guiell on Sardenya street when a man walking behind us spat on us. He had claimed that it was bird droppings and attempted to help us clean up. We were highly suspicious and a lot of warning signs were flashing but we were conned at the end of the day because we thought that goodwill was inherent in all human beings.
He had walked out of a residential building and thus led us back into it, assuring us that he was going to get water and tissue to help us clean up. While in the distraction of cleaning up, he walked away with my hangbag. Luckily, we didn't have too much valubles in it other than ironically, your guidebook and our passports. The main points were, 1) he had the key to the locked lobby of the building which made us think that he was not as suspicious as he looked; 2) the supposedly bird droppings were runny cake dough and smelled of chocolate cake (another warning sign) 3) we were in a residential area which caused us admitedly to drop our guards 4) the police there is indifferent and the law lenient on criminals if they are even caught to begin with
Lucky for us, the replacement of our passports was easy with the effieciency of our Consulat in Barcleona.
Yee May Yeo USA 04/19/2011
Restaurant Casa Santa Pola, Ronda, Spain
Rafael Soto in Idaho Falls, ID USA 04/10/2011
I believe Rick is now including some information on Burgos and this city should be on anyone itinerary who does an extensive trip of Spain. Great food combined with great history makes this a memorable visit. Easily the best tapas in Spain. A side trip to Ona (about an hour away) is an interesting way to see how a cathedral is now being renovated to highlight the Benedictan and Jesuit influence on the country.
Tony Ambrose in Louiville, KY USA 04/03/2011
Casa Mari y Rufo, c/freixures, 11, Barcelona
art castagno in edmonds , wa USA 04/02/2011
When you reach the bottom of La Rambla, unless you intend on visiting the Columbus Monument, turn around when you reach the Burger King and walk back up La Rambla. You could feel and see the pickpockets hanging around in the vicinity of the Burger King. There is a lot of scaffolding on the front and sides of the Catedral de Barcelona. The door linking the right side of the church near the high alter and the cloisters isn't always open; Sometimes you have to exit the church and go in an outside side gate to gain entry to the cloisters. The Picasso Museum and Joan Miro Museum do NOT allow pictures to be taken of the artwork. The Romanesque wing of the MNAC is closed until June 2011 as they reorganize the artwork. Juan still works at Pinotxo in La Boqueria. I held up my Snapshot Barcelona guidebook and said "Juan el famoso!" He replied "no, no famoso!" then signed my guidebook below his picture. He alone is the best reason to go to La Boqueria! And in seven days in Barcelona, absolutely NO problems with pickpockets (I wore a moneybelt and kept my digital camera hidden) on La Rambla and on the metro.
Thomas Elliot in Nom de Plume, TX USA 03/09/2011
The Hotel Penon Grande was an outstandingly good recommendation!When in Nerja, if one is tiring of Spanish food, we can highly recommend Le Relais Gourmand for french cuisine. Location: Calle Almirante ferrandiz (Cristo), 18, 29780 Nerja, phone 952 52 23 22 and 658 75 72 89. And for a taste of modern Spanish fusion food in Cordoba (walking along your recommended street turned up not much...everything was closed that day but we saw a hand-painted sign on the corner of an old building and eventually stumbled upon...) - SOUL, a bar/cafeteria on c/Alfonso XIII,3, Cordoba. A wifi zone. phone 84-957-491-580...just be sure to specify which wine you want with which dish. Excellent find for vegans and vegetarians! We also enjoyed the restaurant/hotel recommendation for about 12km outside Ronda - one of the 2 owners is a very friendly and very knowledgeable American ex-patriot.
Karin McCullough in Seattle, WA USA 03/07/2011
The direct bus from the Madrid airport to Atocha train station was awesome!! Two euros and took less than half an hour on a Sunday morning! Free TI maps in Granada, Seville, and Cordoba are very good--I was able to navigate through the tiny streets in the old towns to explore and to get to and from the train station. (While RS guidebook maps are usually enough for me, they weren't enough in Andalusia.) Even the ATMs in Spain offered to do my transactions in US dollars, which was very confusing. (I chose euros, but in all my years travelling to Europe, I'd never had this from the ATM and was confused by it.)
Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 03/04/2011
I recommend the tapas restaurant Ferran in Barcelona at 24-26 Ferran, just steps off la Rambla to the east. Many staff speak English, and the tapas are larger and more varied than other tapas places in the book. Prices are quite reasonable.
Dale in Fairfield, OH USA 03/04/2011
Restaurant Rincon de Aragon at 28 Carrer Del Carme (2 blocks west of Rambla) serves roast suckling pig similar to Botin in Madrid. Not full of tourists, English not prevalent- an authentic place. Food was great, service friendly. Rincondearagon.es phone 933026789
Dale in Fairfield, OH USA 03/03/2011
Can't emphasize enough how rewarding the tour of Roman ruins is at the City History Museum in Barcelona. Also for a splurge dinner with great service and view, go to Montjuïc El Xalet, phone 933249270.
Joan in Maurertown, VA USA 01/29/2011
Museum of Glass and Crystal in Malaga, Spain
Calle Gaona, 20 (In front of the Church of San Felipe Neri) Tel: 952-221-949 Website: http://www.museovidrioycristalmalaga.com/
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 11:00 to 19:00H. Visits are guided. Mondays are closed. Entrance fee: Adults - 4 euros (Retirees and children - 2.00 euros)
The Museum of Glass and Crystal is the only museum of its kind in Andalusia and it opened on Sept. 1, 2009. The museum displays about 700 objects of glass and crystal, dating from Egyptian and Roman times to the present. The museum is located in a carefully restored 18th century palace in downtown Malaga, the palace having been built by an Italian family. Unlike other museums that seem sterile, this museum shows the glass and crystal objects in a home setting, with period furniture and decoration of that time. For example, if the glass objects come from the 19th century, the room will have a wood and glass cabinet where these objects are displayed. There will be chairs, sofas, paintings, mirrors, porcelain, lamps and carpets from the 19th century.
The bottom floor has many English stained glass windows with Pre-Raphaelite motifs, such as one made in 1880 by Albert Moore. The stairs going to the second floor have beautiful antique ceramic tiles decorating the stairs. The second floor has the rooms divided by the time periods of the glass and crystal displayed.
There are glass and crystal objects from every important and historic European manufacturer, such as Lalique, Webb, Wedgewood, Galle, Daum, and La Granja. This museum has some of their most beautiful samples, in every conceivable color. A visitor is overwhelmed by the beauty of these objects. The value of these antiques is astronomical.
The early 20th century room has a beautiful painting of a beautiful woman dressed in red. The painter was Henry Gervex, and the painting is called "El Vestido Rojo" (the red dress). This painting calls attention because the young woman portrayed is shown enjoying life. Another beautiful painting shows a beautiful blond woman standing with her son. The boy in the painting was the grandfather of the owner of the museum.
The museum really is also a decorative arts museum, with the best examples of period furniture. While this museum is quite large, it does not have enough space to display his whole collection of glass and crystal, which numbers about 3000 pieces. Malaga is very lucky to have this new and unique museum.
Benny Lopez in Malaga, Spain 01/13/2011
If you're a vegetarian in Spain: Good Luck! :) For "quick eats" know that you can ask anywhere for a "Bocadilla de Tortilla" which is a potato and egg in frenchbread. There are Indian restaurants and Italian restaurants that are good for Vegetarians.
We went to Gibraltar, even though the book said it wasn't anything too special. LOVED it! I think the reason why is that we're very active and so running around on "The Rock" was a lot of fun!
Sara Kinsey in Redmond, WA USA 01/12/2011
We've are very lucky to use your books, traveling in Austria, Switzerland and Spain. Thank you. We've arrived from Spain in late November. We've visited the the extra-ordinary poetic flamenco concert near the Cathedral of Cordoba - Tablao Flamenco Cardenal Calle de Torrijos, 10, 14003 Córdoba, Spain +34 957 48 33 20 . This was times better than the concert on the plaza de Espana in Seville, recommended in your book.
You've forgotten to mention the striking problem of using 500 euro bills in the European Union. Since 2002 you can't use them as cash. We've been cornered trying to pay for tolls and gas.
Alexander Gofman in Brooklyn, NY USA 01/12/2011
I'm currently living in Barcelona, working on a Master's in Translation Studies. When I arrived, I stayed at the Barna Hostal, as I did on my first visit to Barcelona in 2007. I recommend that you add this lovely little B&B to your list of convenient, reasonably priced accommodations. The rooms are neat and comfortable and have recently been updated (the hostel changed owners this fall--both the former and current owners are very nice people who care about good quality service). They also offer a nice continental breakfast for about 6 euro, and are located above one of the best pastry/chocolate shops in Barcelona! (Pastelería Mauri). The hostel is on the Rambla de Catalunya, one block away from La Pedrera at: Rambla Catalunya 102, 1º 2º 08008 Barcelona. Other contact info: Telefono: +34 93 487 19 89 Fax: +34 93 301 55 81; Email: info@barnahostal.com Give them a try!
Elaine Newton-Bruzza in Portland, OR USA 12/26/2010
Spain 2010, Dec. 22, 2010 Camino de Santiago, Costa Vella
Natalie Winslow in Monroe, WA USA 12/22/2010
Perhaps it's been added in the latest edition of the Spain guidebook but I didn't see any mention of the Mies van der Rohe pavillion near Plaza Espania in Barcelona. Though this is a reconstruction of the original built for the 1929 world exposition, it's a very significant modernist structure and will be of great interest to those interested in architecture. It's also the reason why Mies' famous "Barcelona Chair" has that name.
Here's a link with more info from Fundacio Mies van der Rohe. http://www.miesbcn.com/en/outside.html
Please consider adding this site to the next edition of the guide.
Sean Borman in Cambridge, MA USA 12/18/2010
Just back from 15 days in Madrid, Seville, Ronda, Granada and Toledo. Wonderful sights in all these cities. Followed Rick's guide and it worked well.
Judy in Alexandria, MN USA 11/20/2010
I was delighted to find that many sites in Spain gave significant senior discounts to those over 65. Valid ID required. Churches, museums, flamenco shows, day trips offered reduced rates. Best of all, I got in free to the Alcazar in Seville.
Chris Rigney in Mt Kisco, NY USA 11/20/2010
I would like to recommend adding Hostal Rodri in Granada, Spain to the guidebook. Located at Laurel de las Tablas 9, telephone (34) 958 288 043 This is a wonderful small new hotel with a great location in the old part of Granada. The owner is extremely helpful providing maps, and all sorts of suggestions for seeing his town. The hotel is spotlessly clean with fresh flowers and a wonderful breakfast provided each morning. The price is approximatley E42 for a double room. Excellent choice in a perfect location.
Jane Westbrook in Tucker, GA USA 11/16/2010
I would like to recommend adding Hostal Rodri in Granada, Spain to the guidebook. Located at Laurel de las Tablas 9, telephone (34) 958 288 043 This is a wonderful small new hotel with a great location in the old part of Granada. The owner is extremely helpful providing maps, and all sorts of suggestions for seeing his town. The hotel is spotlessly clean with fresh flowers and a wonderful breakfast provided each morning. The price is approximatley E42 for a double room. Excellent choice in a perfect location.
Jane Westbrook in Tucker, GA USA 11/16/2010
Yes, I would like to recommend that you include Hotel Laboutique, Calle Osario 7, 14001 Cordoba, Espana; Tel. 957 498 039; Fax 957 497 717; reservas@hotellaboutique.com.
We recently spent two weeks traveling through Southern Spain and wanted to stay in Cordoba but all your recommended hotels and those of another travel book were full. One of your recommended hotels (I forget which one) recommended Hotel Laboutique and we stayed there. It is a clean and apparently just recently finished or refurbished hotel. Rooms were very functional and clean. Its location was fully accessible to all of the major attractions in Cordoba by foot and in a good area of town near a number of restaurants and bars. But the best thing was the service that we got from the staff. It was fantastic, including helping us get to the hotel when our GPS (which we not so affectionately named "Edith the Bitch" could not seem to give us the proper directions.
I would highly recommend that you include this hotel in your next edition so that you can expand the list of good hotels in Cordoba.
Dan Satrian in Arvada, CO USA 11/13/2010
Great Restuarant in Avila! La Pera Limonera Plaza De mosen Rubi, 5 Avila 05001 www.laperalimonera.com.es
Bob Orders in Charleston, WV USA 11/10/2010
Great Restaurant in Santillana Del Mar Los Blosones Plaza La Gandara Santillana Del Mar 39330 Phone 942818070 Wonderful small local family run business. Thanks for all your advice!
Bob Orders in Charleston, WV USA 11/10/2010
I just spent 12 days in different cities in Spain. On our second day in Spain (Madrid), I lost my Rick Steve’s guidebook leaving it on a museum bench. On the 10th day of our trip in Seville, I was negotiating for a 10% on our stay at the Hotel Alcantara since they advertized a 10% discount if you pay cash and show them your RS guidebook. I explained to Juan (the desk person) that I lost my guidebook in Madrid but have the Spanish phrase book that came with it. He gave me the discount and lent me his RS Spain guidebook which he says he uses when he travels to other cities in Spain.
L. Balcita in Naperville, IL USA 11/01/2010
We stayed at the Hotel Murillo which had nice accomodations, and I would include as a good place to stay in Sevilla. Also, the Estrella Bar in Sevilla was excellent, great tapas, large portions for a very reasonable price.
Hilda Fernandez in Los Angeles, CA USA 10/28/2010
Festa de la Merce was just getting started when we had to leave (last weekend in September). A wild time was had by all.
Holly Kennedy in Barre, MA USA 10/21/2010
Madrid and Toledo Snapshot
Carmelita Stone in Plattsburg, MO USA 10/13/2010
Here are notes about a few art and architecture attractions visited spring 2010 in Barcelona, Bilbao, Burgos, Toledo, and Madrid.
In Barcelona, for those who want to see even more works by Antoni Gaudi than are covered in the RS guide consider adding Casa Vincens. This residence is privately owned and not open to the public, but the exterior with its with strong Mozarabic influence is extraordinary. The address is Carrer de les Carolines, 18, nearest Metro stop is Fontana. If you want to continue on to Park Guell (pronounced Gwell) there's a bus stop right outside the Fontana Metro station where you can catch the #24 which will take you directly to the park. Another must for Gaudi fans is the Crypt at Colonia Guell which is easily reached by frequent trains from Placa Espanya. The train ride is approximately 25 minutes to the Colonia Guell station. From that station signs and painted footprints guide you to the visitor center in the village where you purchase tickets. The Crypt is a short distance beyond. Details at www.coloniaguell.net.
Santiago Calatrava's communication tower on Montjuic in Barcelona is spectacular. The location is shown on the RS map of Montjuic, near the Olympic Stadium. I had difficulty finding the #PM (Parc de Montjuic) bus stop in Placa de Espanya which is mentioned in RS. However a city bus leaving from Placa de Espanya on Avinguda Reina Maria Cristina (sorry I don't have the bus #) travels along Avinguda L'Estadi to the stadium area. By the way, the German Pavilion, an icon of modern architecture designed by Mies Van der Rohe is on the same bus route. See RS map fine print for location of the pavilion. I would skip Calatrava's Baca de Roda bridge in Barcelona particularly if you are going to Bilbao where you can see his Zubizuri footbridge.
In Bilbao, Calatrava's Zubizuri footbridge, also known as Campo Volantin Bridge, is located just east of the Guggenheim at the Uribitarte EuskoTram stop. If you like Calatrava's work, don't miss seeing this bridge.
Another unusual bridge in Bilbao is the historic Puente Colgante. Built in the late 1800s it offers a novel solution to the problem of transporting passengers and vehicles without obstructing the passage of ships. The bridge has a ferrying platform suspended from a truss mounted on two high towers. The tourist information office recommended taking the metro from the Casco Viejo station to Portugalete, a 45 minute trip, walk downhill to the bridge, ride across for a small fee, then take the metro back to Casco Viejo from the nearby Areeta station.
The Burgos cathedral is stunning not only for the beauty of the original design, but for the great care and effort that has gone into restoring and maintaining the church. It's as bright and fresh as a new minted coin.
When we visited the Cathedral in Toledo the area in front of the Transparente had been cordoned off for an audiovisual presentation that was shown periodically throughout the day. I felt the setup for this program detracted from viewing the Transparente, particularly because it appeared that the natural light from the skylight had been blocked to enhance the stage lighting that was part of the show.
The Prado in Madrid is packed to the rafters with masterpieces. If you are a diehard art fan, save yourself the frustration of trying to follow a printed guide (locations change), just start at one end and go to every room, marking them off your map as you go. It is such a remarkable and extensive collection that it is well worth reading about the art and artists before you go. A small book I'd recommend in particular is "Velazquez" ISBN 0789448556, from Dorling Kindersley Limited. As the back cover says: "it includes over 300 illustrations; surveys the artist's life and works; analyzes the masterpieces; explains the historical and social context." The book is well organized and well designed, making it very informative and enjoyable.
If I had it to do over I would skip the Centro de Arte Reina Sophia, even including Picasso's Guernica, in favor visiting the Prado on two separate days. The Prado is such an incredibly rich experience that it would be worth spreading it out rather than trying to see it all in a one-day all-day marathon.
Vincent in San Diego, CA USA 10/11/2010
Helpful Hints: To get rid of our last pounds sterling at the end of our Gibraltar visit, we paid for our meal at The Clipper with a combination of pounds sterling and a credit card.
Discovery: We spent three nights in Trujillo in Extremadura. Would recommend inclusion in future editions.
Bob in Alameda, CA USA 10/09/2010
RE: Snapshot Barcelona Hosteria Grau on Ramelleres in Barcelona will be closed per the following I received via email 06 Oct 10: We regret to inform you that due to a lift/elevator construction, the hotel will be closed from November 15th, 2010 to February 9th, 2011 (both included).
Donald in Wilmington, DE USA 10/07/2010
The overnight train from Paris to Barcelona was extremely comfortable and a great time saver. Train was prompt, service was wonderful, dinner and breakfast great, and tiny bed and shower just right. We were able to hit the ground running when we got to Barcelona!
Kim in Chicago, IL USA 10/04/2010
Hostal L’Antic Espai is one of the best values I’ve found in Europe and offers a wonderful all-around experience. The hotel is centrally located in the Eixample district near all the Modernista architecture (1.5 blocks from Passeig de Gracia) and the transportation/tourist information hub of Placa de Catalunya (about 4 blocks). The extremely reasonable room rate included a substantial continental breakfast served on the pretty terrace or in the sitting room. This contributes to the hotel’s comfort since it’s nice to not have to search for breakfast at the beginning of the day, as well as the value, since food is fairly expensive in Spain. The owners, Abel and Sergio, are very kind and offer the perfect mix of interaction: happy to chat with you but don’t impose a lengthy conversation on you every time you walk through the door. (As opposed to the cool detached e-mail exchange I had with Rick’s recommended Hotel Granvia). Abel and Sergio are such nice guys who run their hotel with such attention to detail and loving care that they deserve to have every room filled each night! As you’d expect in a place this wonderful, it is spotlessly clean. You might not expect the added ambience of being surrounded by beautiful antiques during your stay. I simply can’t say enough good things about Abel and Sergio and their wonderful hotel. Rick, please add this hotel to your next book ... your readers will be grateful!
Hostal L'Antic Espai Gran Via de les Cortes Catalanes, 660 08010 Barcelona, Spain 933 041 945 http://www.anticespai.com/
Sherrie Sons in Bolingbrook, IL USA 09/26/2010
Sitges - I'd like to say that Sitges is a wonderful beach town. with pure sand beaches and good restaurants. It was not overly flashy / high end, and not funky - just right! We stayed at the Hotel Sebastien La Playa which is right on the promenade and liked it a lot. There is the more tourist oriented portion of the town, and the real ton where the locals shopped. Lots of pretty small streets to wander. Their promenade fronted restaurant, Posit, offered some truly excellent seafood dinners (an serves a great breakfast buffet as part of the room cost) We enjoyed so much we went twice.
On Barcelona, you were correct to provide warnings fro pickpockets, as the City is #1 i the world for it. I lost a nice wallet with cash, but important documents were safe with your money belt. It is an elaborate scam where you get splashed with some liquid (coffee, but we thought bird poop) and then an offer from a nice person offering to help clean it with bottled water and napkins - get this - in the lobby of "his" very nice apartment building 1 block from the Gaudi Church. It put a black paranoid cloud on the rest of our visit to Barcelona.
Also, I more highly recommend the Palau Catalan Concert Hall. I am an architect, and I thought it took the prize from all the Gaudi buildings. Excellent tour. I thought the tour of the Gaudi building Casa Botlo on the Block of Discord was excellent,if a bit pricey.
William Endelman in Seattle, WA USA 09/26/2010
Barcelona: recommended additions are included below: Casa Calvet and a hotel
Elizabeth G. Harris in Los Angeles, CA USA 09/19/2010
Barcelona: recommended additions are included below: Casa Calvet and a hotel
Elizabeth G. Harris in Los Angeles, CA USA 09/19/2010
Sinagoga Mayor in Barcelona Barri Gothic
http://www.calldebarcelona.org/
We had a walking tour of the old Jewish quarter and the guide didn't take us there. We found mention of it in other guidebooks so we found it ourselves.
Marc Gilman in Bedford, NH USA 08/23/2010
Paco Meralgo - great neighborhood tapas bar. Muntaner 171/Cantonada Corsega Room mate hotels - we stayed at Emma in L'Eixample and it's reasonable and great. Used booking.com and got a significant discount.
Katy in New York, NY USA 08/18/2010
Your guidebook gives the 3 sights in Segovia one star each: the Roman aqueducts, the cathedral, and the castle. However, when you consider the entire town, it deserves at least 2 stars. The Roman aqueducts are an amazing engineering feat which are still in prime condition after 2,000 years! And the entire town is very charming.
Deanne Reynolds in Chelan, WA USA 08/15/2010
Rondo
m in DC, Dc USA 08/14/2010
Rondo
m in DC, Dc USA 08/14/2010
Comments are in reference to the Barcelona Snapshot. Tip: Senior discounts are available at most, but not all, be sure to ask. Tip: Lonja Tapas just below Picasso Museum is sleak, slightly upscale and excellent. Great for lunch! Tip: Pay the small charge for the fabulous toasted bread, brushed with olive oil and tomaquet. It is wonderful with the complementary house chunks of parmigian cheese on the tables. Contact Ron Benton, busybees7@msn.com
Ron Benton in Spring, TX USA 08/14/2010
Yes, In Sevilla: La Bodega de la Alfalfa: on Alfalfa St. An attractive bodega, where you can stand at the bar and eat small sandwiches, or sit down in the huge back and be served some of the best tapas we have had: fresh octopus on sliced potatos drizzles with olive oil,meat stuffed peppers, calamari, to die for! At the end of our meal the waiter gave us caramel vodka to wash down the flavors. An outstanding place, reasonably priced, friendly service. I have already filled out the feedback section, but just remembered the name of this restaurant!
Ann Heft in Gainesville, Fl USA 08/09/2010
Free Parking in San Sebastian
In May 2010 we stayed at Pension Edorta (recomended) in the Old Town. We parked in a pay lot near the city center just long enough to get checked in. I then moved the car to the University area on the west side of San Sebastian where there is free parking on the street. I rode the number 25 bus back to “Boulevard.” This was following a tip I had seen from contributor “iowakowes” in a web forum. For details, google “parking in san sebastian iowakowes”
If I had it to do again I would skip parking in the city center and head directly to the University area. Driving in the city center can be a hassle due to congestion and unfamiliar one-way streets. On the afternoon we arrived I wasn’t able to spot the entrance to the Boulevard parking facility, perhaps it was full. The closest facility we found was at San Martin and that was a bit of a trek to the hotel. It would have been easier, quicker and would have involved less walking with luggage to park at the University in first place. The bus fare is 1.35 euros. The person at the desk at Pension Edorta concurred that parking at the University was a reasonable idea and safe.
Driving into San Sebastian follow signs for Ondarreta or Unibertsitatea. The University is on the west side of Avenida de Tolosa. The turn in is at Plaza Europa. Start looking for parking as soon as you turn off Avenida de Tolosa, don’t go up the hill. Walk back out to Avenida de Tolosa to catch the bus, either #5 or #25, heading north toward the bay.
Vincent in San Diego, CA USA 08/08/2010
Would definitely recommend Trobador restaurant in Barcelona, Spain.
Address: Rambla Catalunya 2-4 08007 Barcelona, telephone 933 184 041
We went to this restaurant to have a few tapas and the bartender/tapas were fantastic! The restaurant as a whole was fairly busy and reasonably priced. We had 5 appetizers, 2 wines, 1 beer and 2 coffees for 23€. The staff and service was fantasic and friendly. We enjoyed the food and the atmosphere!
Chris Wollan in Monticello, MN USA 08/05/2010
We discovered a wonderful Italian restaurant in Madrid, Spain on Calle Cava Baja, south of Plaza Mayor. It is called Masaniello Cava Baja,28. The young Italian server from Naples was just a delight.The food was wonderful and a break from local fare and tapas.
Ronald Jetke in Pacifica, Ca USA 08/04/2010
Having never been to Spain, we followed your book, and dicovered the beauty of the Country: In Barcelona-Gaudi:in Granada, the Alhambra:Sevilla's grand Cathedral: Madrid, the Prado. The history, ancient buildings, beautiful streets, friendly people!
Ann Heft in Gainesville, Fl USA 08/04/2010
Tip: Buy a detailed map of Barcelona before leaving the States. The complimentary map given out at hotels is very difficult to use, and Barcelona is a big confusing city to navigate.
Lindsay in New York, NY USA 08/03/2010
My wife and I visited Madrid and Barcelona on late June and early July. Your snapshot guide was very helpful. We thought, however, that you undervalued the Monasterio Descaszas Reales in Madrid. We had an excellent guide. The unique history of the monastery, the beautiful interior and the fine art makes this a site that is truly worth at least one of your stars.
Michael Wentzel in Rochester, NY USA 08/01/2010
Club Boulevard on Ramblas 27 was a hip mix of new and 90s pop music. Gets very crowded at 3 AM and stays that way. A lightboard next to dance floor shows cool designs to the music.
Jason in Heil, OH USA 07/25/2010
I used Rick's Snapshot Barcelona book 2010 edition. The service, comfort and cleanliness of the Aerobus (A#1) from the airport to Barcelona was wonderful. Cost was 5 Euro and there were several stops you could use prior to arriving at Placa de Catalunya. The bus was well air-conditioned and they didn't overload the buses. When you leave Barcelona to return to the airport choose either the A#1 or A#2 depending on the terminal of your departure. Barcelona was a great place to visit, and the positives surely outweigh the negatives. Problem #1: theft and pickpockets abound in this city. We didn't lose anything, but it was not for lack of thieves trying. Be aware of people following you. We carried no purse or backpack, but my husband had a camera. Finally the camera went into several plain white shopping bags to avoid peering eyes. In one metro station a young woman jumped in front of us with her arms out blocking the subway door so her partner could perhaps get into our zippered, velcro pockets from behind. This didn't work, but we learned never to try to board a subway when the bell is sounding an alert that it will pull away soon. Problem #2: Every once in awhile we noticed a sewer odor. It was as if the storm drain and sewer system were the same in some locations. These smells helped us make restaurant choices!
Sharron Stevens in Oberstaufenbach, Germany 07/10/2010
Checked out the recommended www.madridman.com just before leaving for Spain. Thanks for the tip! We discovered that the Metro in Madid would be on strike right on the days that we were covering Madrid. Even the Madrilenos didn't know and were couaght off guard. So, we weren't too fazed and walked, walked, walked.
Lora Rozzi in Granger, IN USA 07/06/2010
We just got back from 10 days in Spain. On a lark, we called Gabriella Ranelli for a pintxos cooking class, as noted in the "Tours in San Sebastian" section of the guidebook. After a brief tour of the old town and market, we went to her kitchen and began cooking. Then her friends began dropping by and soon it turned into a pintxos cooking party! 5 hours later we left sated with our pintxo creations and Gabriella's favorite Rioja's. Though the experience was not cheap - (115 euros each), it was an unexpected highlight of our trip.
Mark Bengtson in Flower Mound, TN USA 07/03/2010
Rick:
I've sworn by your books in the past. This time, however,I was disappointed to find that your Spain guidebook excludes Spain's Balearic Islands which are close enough to Barcelona to be reached by ferry. It also doesn't say much about Malaga except for a paragraph on transportation connections. Why are these areas ignored?
Fran Gorman in Foster City, CA USA 06/30/2010
Ahmed Taoumi, a very professional, reliable, and respected tour guide in Tangier who is fluent in seven languages. During our six hour private tour with him and a driver, my husband and I saw areas of the old and new city, visited the Atlantic coast and the caves of Hercules, the Kasbah, the Medina, a museum, and a craft shop. He seemed to know everyone and vice versa and we were never harassed. It was well worth the 35 euros each. taoumitour@hotmail.com
Joanne in Towson, MD USA 06/14/2010
We found a quirkily charming hotel in Grenada with low prices (abour 90 E a night including an andequate breakfast), very helpful staff and a wonderful location, midway between the Cathedral and Plaza Nuevo. It's the Posada Del Toro, C/ Elvira, 25 - 18010 Granada Tel:877-662-6988. I'd recommend it to budget travelers. Only drawback is rooms on the street tend to be a bit noisy.
Shannon Gardiner Collins in Alexandria, VA USA 06/09/2010
Cinc Sentits restaurant in Barcelona went with my family June 3, 2010. I agree, it was an unforgettable extravaganza. However, BEWARE. They are not too clear re the price of their wine with the tasting menu and weren't forthcoming with the price of an addition. I really thought they were less than forthright re $$ despite the owner's terrific hospitality, service, and presentation. This is a superb restaurant. The check was a shock.
Marc Stuart in New York, NY USA 06/07/2010
Just came back from Madrid and loved the city. Carlos, from LeTango tours, was a wonderful and charming guide. Id doing the tapas crawl, order a drink and then wait for the waiter to bring you a free snack. After several bars and snacks, you might not need to pay for dinner.
Teddie Lohmeier in Nicholson, GA USA 05/31/2010
In reference to your recommendation of the Jose Maria restaurant in Segovia; I would like to add the following. If you do not have a reservation, go to the restaurant in person first thing on arrival in Segovia and ask for a reservation. You then can plan your visit and know you won't be disappointed. I also suggest that for the best experience, to order the "menu degustacion" which had five courses in addition to the suckling pig; plus it included a bottle of wine, bottled water and coffee. This was 45 Euros per person including taxes and service charges. You can take your time to relax and enjoy the food as the service and atmosphere are superb.
Robert Kenna in Ottawa, ON Canada 05/29/2010
Include Mallorca with Spain, with a caveat about the crowding June through mid September. The coast and some of the hill towns are stunningly beautiful. We spent 10 days in late April-early May driving the coast and stopping at sites, and hiking between towns. We enjoyed Valldemosa, Deia, Palma and Port Soller. The island may be killing the goose that lays the golden egg with overdevelopment, but some localities are working to curb hotel construction.
Doug Nelson in San Jose, CA USA 05/25/2010
Madrid Vision Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus Tours give seniors half off price. MadSegs segway trip was an interesting way to see parts of the city and meet people. Hotel Ateneo has a super breakfast provided by the cafe next door.
D Kronus in Bradenton, FL USA 05/19/2010
Highly recommended car rental in Spain--Auriga Crown Car Hire! The most time-consuming and frustrating aspect of planning our spring 2009 two-week trip to southern Spain (with a side trip to Tangier) was booking a rental car for the second week--What a quagmire! Trouble renting in one place and returning to another, unfathomable insurance coverages and rates, charges all over the place (from $200 to $1,700), etc. Finally, I hit on Auriga Crown, where I arranged to pick up a small AT car in Sevilla and return it a week later in Granada for $371, which included full, zero deductible insurance. In addition, picking up the car took less than five minutes, and returning it took, maybe, half that time, plus I got a free double upgrade, and there were no surprises or add-on costs.
John in Durham, NC USA 05/16/2010
I would recommend Castillo de San Jorge as a place to see in Sevilla. The castle was the seat of the Holy Inquisition in Spain. The exhibition was very well done and thought-provoking. It was also free.
Sheri in St. Louis, MO USA 05/14/2010
I would highly recommend the Catalan restaurant Origens in Barcelona. It has 4 locations. We ate at the one at Passeig del Born 4, which is in the small square behind Santa Marie del Mar. Excellent local food. Very reasonable price (10 euro main dishes), good local wine selection, partially or fully organic, friendly English-speaking staff who are proud of the food the prepare. www.lallavordelsorigens.com. +34 93 295 66 90.
Paul in Chapman, WA USA 05/12/2010
Favorite finds from our recent trip to Spain: Hostal Aguilar in Madrid (Calle San Jeronimo 32) and the Bar Patanchon Patanchon in Sevilla (Calle Mateos Gago 13. Walk up a block or two from the cathedral and it's on the left)
Paul Danko in Arlington Heights, IL USA 05/04/2010
Near Los Arcos hotel a fabulous restuarante called Bodegas Campos, Los Lineros,32 Tel957 49 75 00 Fax 957 49 03 18. Cordoba, a great city to visit.
terry Kaase in saint paul, mn USA 05/02/2010
Great little tapas bar: Cerverceria La Plaza at 2 Plaza de Santa Ana in Madrid. Very little English spoken but very friendly and modest prices. Mostly locals.
For runners/walkers the Casa del Campo park in Madrid just west of the Royal Palace is a treat. Accessible via Metro stop Lago (zone 1) it is full of walkers, joggers, bicyclists and families. The periphery trail is 10 miles around with a restaurant available midway for a break or water if starting at Lago. There are also restaurants at Lago but the prices are startling – ask how much before you order even a coke. There are many, many other paths and trails and even an amusement park and zoo. Paddle boats can also be rented. Casa del Campo is a huge park right in the middle of Madrid. It was undoubtedly part of the royal family’s grounds at one time.
Steve in Westcliffe, CO USA 04/27/2010
There a book market near Retiro Park (in Madrid) that is similar to the on on the Left Bank in Paris. Also, in Barcelona, the mask / costume / toy store El Ingenio was very interesting (only 1 street west of Ramblas).
Here is my picture http://www.flickr.com/photos/marmot_oo7/4544397793/
Also, if you get tired of bocadillos, the chain, Cafe & Te is good.
Ryan MacDicken in Auburn, WA USA 04/23/2010
Your Barcelona guide recommended walking Carerra Merce and picking tapas that looks good. You also suggest several bars. We enjoyed that area, but tired of fried this and that, so when we stumbled into the women-owned Belmonte near the east end of C. Merce we were in heaven. We learned the virtues of Romesco sauce, both in a salad called xato and on potatoes, as opposed to the spicier brava sauce we had elsewhere. Their house made vermouth is delicious also. Co-owners Merce and Carmina taught us much about classic Spanish food while we were there two times. This place deserves a mention in your next edition!! Belmonte is at C. de la Merce 29, 08002 Barcelona. Phone is 93 3107684.
Earl Quist in Arlington, VA USA 04/13/2010
Ubeda is a wonderful town and UNESCO site. We were there for Semana Santa (Holy Week) - like Sevilla without the congestion and high prices. We took the train from Madrid (28 euros taxi ride from Linares-Baeza station), then left via bus to Granada.
Dave Fisher in Calgary, AB Canada 04/12/2010
Please consider adding Mercat Santa Caterina (16 Av. Francesc Cambo, to one's right when exiting the cathedral - look for the curvy, multi-colored mosaic roof). It's smaller than La Boqueria, and has a wonderful bar called Cuines Santa Maria that serves food nearly all day long. The adjoining restaurant observes the usual lunch and dinner hours. The calamari and pa amb tomaquet were amazing!
Jodie Padgett in Carlinville, IL USA 04/06/2010
Sevilla - El Patio San Eloy , San Eloy 9, A Sevilla classic- Serving tapas especially a wide variety of small sandwiches, salads, cheese plates. Can be frenetic - but fun. A local favourite. Very reasonable.
Joel Beane eljo2@niagara.com
Joel Beane in St. Catharines, On Canada 04/03/2010
Amazing restaurant in Sevilla: Vineria San Telmo Paseo Catalina de Ribera, 4, Seville, Spain 954 410 600 | vineriasantelmo.com/
Spanish cooking with a modern spin. Every dish was amazing. The prices are beyond reasonable.
John Osgood in New York, NY USA 03/31/2010
Just wanted to say thanks for a great book, we just came from a fantastic trip to Spain, mostly went to small towns - some of which are not in your book - but I still carried it for a general reference.
Lara in Denver, CO USA 03/14/2010
Patanchon & Patanchon Bar in Sevilla. Fantastic location and great tapas.
Julie Langill in Danville, CA USA 02/15/2010
Hotel Mora is on Paseo del Prado 32, just up the street from the train station, and just down the street from the Prado which I love. It was a nice find as we were walking and trying to find a hotel from the Atocha train station. The Madrid Vision bus stops very near and I like their tours.
Jane in Oregon City, OR USA 02/11/2010
Loved Sevilla! Has a great vibe and everything was within easy walking distance. The Alcazar was amazing and you could easily spend an afternoon wandering throughout. The Plaza de Espana and surrounding gardens were a nice find as well!
NJ in Seattle, WA USA 02/08/2010
Madrid-arrived at Atocha Train station walking on Paseo del Prado #32 toward recommended Hostal and found Hotel Mora which was beautiful, handy, friendly, and a good deal
Jane Keller in Oregon City, OR USA 01/21/2010
Spent a month traveling across norther Spain.
Marty in Tod, FL USA 01/16/2010
Las Ramblas is a tourist trap
Juan lost my wallet in Poorville, USA 01/11/2010
Two great finds in restaurants:
Citrus Restaurant in Barcelona: Passeig de Gracia 44 93 487 23 45. Reasonably priced, chic, modern. One of our best meals in Barcelona, including a bottle of wine $50 per person.
In Cordoba: El Choto Restaurant, Almanzor 10, 957 760 115. Fabulous atmosphere $144 for 4. The roast goat (Kid (Chato) was to die for.
Madrid: Hotel Best Western Premier Santo Domingo on Plaza Santo Domingo. Great location. Chic and Modern. About $100 per night for a double booked on Expedia. Just checked, and same rates apply for June.
David MacKenzie in Lafayette, CA USA 01/04/2010
MADRID.....POPULART Jazz cafe...22 Huertas... down from Cafe Central...no cover charge...great jazz every night from 10pm to 1:30...really fun place!
Pete Hall in Haddonfield, NJ USA 01/03/2010
Touring the Belenes (Nativities) at various churches, banks, and shops while in Sevilla in December was great, especially after seeing the flocks of people at the Nativity Market.
Virginia in Boston, MA USA 12/17/2009
Barcelona
Catherine in Edmonds, WA USA 12/15/2009
If you are a wine lover and/or Spanish art lover you should book a tour of the Tradicion sherry bodega in Jerez. They specialize in old sherry (as old as 45 years) and brandy, and have an amazing private art gallery that includes original art from Goya, El Greco, and Valaquez. This small bodega makes only about 1,000 cases of sherry a year, but for $15 you can try 6 of them and have a tour of the winery and the art gallery.
Jim Perschbacher in Mableton, GA USA 12/06/2009
In both Toledo and Segovia, we were able to get a brochure highlighting a special tapas promotion for local bars and restaurants, with a map included to locate the eateries. Not sure if this was a short-term promotion, or whether it's offered all year long. A FANTASTIC way to eat dinner. In Toledo, each restaurant featured a specialty tapas for 2 euro; it Segovia it was 1.50 euros. You could then walk up to the bar, perhaps wave the brochure at them and ask for "una tapas especial" or "una tapas de la casa." My wife and I would usually also order a cervesa or glass of wine to split, usually also about 2 euros and sometimes accompanied by another complementary (but simple) tapas. The featured tapas was uniformly good -- and usually a mystery before it arrived (the brochure named the tapas, but our menu Spanish isn't good enough to completely understand what we were actually ordering). If we liked it, we ordered another. This was a great way to try a variety of Spanish specialties -- and pub crawl -- with limited language skills. Without the brochure it would have been much more difficult, because these restaurants don't generally have tapas on display, or menus readily available, so if you don't speak great Spanish you really wouldn't know what to order or how much it would cost.
Dave in Philadelphia, PA USA 12/01/2009
I travel to Burgos,Spain because I know a family who lives ther and that I stay with. Those who have blogged this site and suggested that Burgos be included in the guide books are absolutely correct. Burgos is a beautiful and historic city of approximately 200,000 people and with one of the most beautiful cathedrals in all of Spain. The tapas bars are some of the best in Spain and the nightlife is fantastic.
Anthony H. Ambrose in Louisville, KY USA 11/26/2009
You might check out Hotel Constanza in Barcelona. Its ultra-modern decor is striking, it's environmentally friendly, and the price we got was reasonable. It's conveniently located in the Eixample neighborhood, a block off Gran Via on Calle del Bruc, 3 blocks from Placa de Catalunya and 4 blocks from the fabulous tapas at Cuidad Condal. Also, try the Peruvian restaurant Astrid y Gaston in Madrid. We've eaten at Gaston's original restaurant in Lima, and this branch in Madrid is even better!
Nancy Zeilig in Denver, CO USA 11/14/2009
Restaurant at the Hotel Infanta Isabel served a small portion of suckling pig to my meat-eating travel companion while I had a fantastic salad. They have two prix fixe meal specials.
Wendy in Washington , DC USA 11/04/2009
Poblenou neighborhood in Barcelona is a lovely place to stay--it's close to the beach and away from the crowds and noise of the center. Loved it.
Barb McKay in Denver, CO USA 11/02/2009
(not sure if this is in the 2010 edition, as I used the 2009). If not then we recommend Inopia tapas restaurant. Excellent selection of tapas, wines and deserts. The staff is very friendly and will offer suggestions when asked.
Jennifer in New York, NY USA 11/01/2009
Just as nobody recommends traveller's checks any more, I think internet cafes are also now passe. Our parents are in their 90s and we wanted to keep an eye out on things at home as we traveled. We found out -- after we had booked them -- that our 6 hotels in Spain ALL had free wi-fi. We spent $300 for an Ipod touch, which does not have a phone (nor any monthly charges) and checked our email twice a day. We had a free Spanish dictionary on it, free books to read and games to play on the flight and, while we had wi-fi, free internet connectivity. Money well spent!
Sharon in Anaheim, CA United States 10/28/2009
Barcelona restaurant "Bilbao Barria" had better tapas than we had in San Sebastian and was very user-friendly. Good location by the cathedral. www.bilbaoberria.com
Sharon in Anaheim, CA United States 10/28/2009
kayzmail@aol.com
Kay Kershaw in Portland, OR USA 10/26/2009
Barcelona - If you are interested in that all over tan, there is a clothing optional beach in Barcelona - the beach area in Barceloneta. When you get to the beach area you want to proceed right, along the boardwalk, towards the large building with the letter W on the top. Go up the beach until you get to the last set of showers. Club Natacio will be on your right. The beach on your right. This is a couples and family area. The only unusual thing is taking a shower after a day on the beach with locals and tourists walking by, paying no attention to you. Enjoy!
Len Duffy in Towson, MD USA 10/17/2009
Dear Mr. Steves, I am a basque man who has read your guide of Spain. Do you really think that entryways of the hotels are "bleak and dirty"? Where? Which hotels? Anyhow, I did enjoy very much your comments about my region, Basque Country (Euskadi). I am from San Sebastián-Donostia, and strongly appreciate what you write about my home town. Next time you visit us, you will be invited as many "pintxos" as you can eat. Regards. David
David Marco in Donostia, Spain 10/14/2009
Pamplona - believe the Museo de Navarra was well worth a visit and deserves a mention in the book. Also if you want some of the San Fermin experience but without the bulls - be in Pamplona around 25 September, that is the "little San Fermin" celebrating the day the saint is thought to have died - so the gigantes and cabezudos are out, great fun, and VERY family friendly.
Madrid - the Mercado de San Miguel is open (my edition of the book says due to open in 2009), and yes while it is not a typical market and more for the tourists, it is a nice place to try different wines, tapas, or other goodies from the various vendors.
Madrid - tapas - we found in the Cava Baja area the two Basque bars - Txacolina and Txakoli - were both very good.
Liza in Hereford, AZ USA 10/08/2009
This is an addition to the 2009 Spain guidebook we purchased prior to our trip to Spain, which was from Sept. 4-22, 2009. It is regarding the national day of Gilbraltar, which is Sept.10. We didn't know it in advance (it wasn't listed on page 678) but it seems the whole 30,000 population turned out in the streets for an all-day celebration. We went to the "Clipper" for lunch, as recommended in the book. It was quite good, but because it was the national day, we were charged an additional 10%. Now, I know Gilbraltar is not Spain, so maybe it doesn't belong in the book, but just about everyone comes from Spain to visit. Anyway, great book and we will go back.
Michael A Noreen in University Place, WA USA 10/07/2009
I found an excellent hotel in Seville, situated 1/2 block from the cathedral - well run, 53.50Euros for Sb, and the interior courtyard of this old Sevillian 18th Century mansion was provided with seating as a common area; on the upstairs balconies were alcoves furnished with beautiful antiques and rugs - the whole place had great ambience and the staff were most helpful. Here is their info if you are interested: Hotel Simon, Calle Garcia de Vinuesa 19, Sevilla. Tel: 95 422 66 60/info@hotelsimonsevilla.com; www.hotelsimonsevilla.com I had attempted to book at Hostal Cordoba previously but their response was that they did not book until the end of July/this did not satisfy me as I was arriving in Madrid on Sept 5. You might want to enquire why they leave their bookings so late?
Susan Sulic in Vancouver, BC Canada 10/07/2009
I took a 2.5 hour walking tour of Seville and it was great. I called Concepcion and she had me meet her partner, Alfonso, in the Plaza de Nueva. There were 5 of us and he did a great job of showing us the city and telling us of its history. Well worth the 12 euros
Jean Brubeck in Santa Cruz, CA USA 10/06/2009
Mallorca
Kylie Peterson in Dallas, TX USA 10/05/2009
Toledo, general. Toledo had a lot of touristy stuff, but we found a couple great local artists and watch them work in their studios. Check out Garrigoz Arte Toledo C/ Tendillas, 13. You can watch apprentice Javier work in the studio. Great pieces featuring Toledo landscapes. Also, Ataujia - a traditional jewelry store at C/ Alfonso X, El Sabio, 2. The jeweler was also working in the store and the woman working the shop explained the traditional process to us in English. We LOVED Stiges and ended up showing up during their huge festival in late September. Fireworks, parades, dancing etc. All the tourist shops shut down for the whole day. It was a great added bonus at the end of our trip to see a local festival.
Cheryl Collins in Seattle, WA USA 10/04/2009
Barecelona- the bike tour was great!
MA NY USA 09/25/2009
At the palace in Madrid the the 8 Euro entrance fee now includes the armory, which we thought was the best part of the tour. We also recommend using Rick's self guided tour. It is quicker and you see it all anyway. Save a couple of E's.
Clay in Shelton, WA USA 09/23/2009
Alhambra guide Luz Rodriguez
Mary in New Haven, CT USA 09/19/2009
Prado in Madrid is open until 10 in the summer. After 6, admission is free. After 8, only exhibition is open, but not the permanent collection. Totally worth the 15-minute wait!
Mila Felder in Chicago, IL USA 08/20/2009
Spain does not come alive until 11 PM; nap so you can join in!
Steve Richards, M.D. in Spokane, WA USA 08/17/2009
Steven Richards, M.D. 4406 S. Tampa Dr. Spokane, WA. 99223
Steve Richards, M.D. in Spokane, WA USA 08/17/2009
The walking tours in the various cities - amazing! I will not take another European trip without a Rick Steves book to guide me!
Danielle in Houston, TX USA 08/14/2009
There are free and clean WCs in Bretxa public market building in San Sebastian. I found the tourist signs in Barcelona not as good as in other cities like London, Paris, or even San Sebastian. I was lost more in Barcelona than I usually am.
Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 08/11/2009
I think you should add a "womens" section. My friend and I NEEDED a pedicure after Two weeks of tromping through Spain. I took before and after pictures of my nasty feet..here is a discovery it is called "Jesus Peluqueros" For all your girl needs, hair, feet, hands..not much English, but fun and an experience.
Daphne Weaver in Bremerton, WA USA 08/03/2009
Please tell me how to find the story of Prince Michael on page 446.
Bryan in Seattle, WA USA 08/01/2009
please add this restaurant
Carmen in Los Angeles, CA USA 07/29/2009
Ballet Flamenco Madrid (as a former dancer, including ballet and Flamenco, I thought it was terrific) Estado Puro -- a new wave tapas restaurant in the NH Hotel across from the Neptune statue in Madrid
Melinda in Chicago, IL USA 07/28/2009
Spain Guide Book
Carmen in Los Angeles, CA USA 07/15/2009
Picos de Europa -- while it can be touristy, we stayed in Aneizo outside of Potes and had a wonderful, quiet time. Visited craftsman of local cheese and liquor and hiked through the mountains. Stayed at La Pisa - http://www.lapisa.co.uk/home.html
Nicolle Mode in Pleasanton, CA USA 07/12/2009
We used Spain 2008 so it is possible that you aready have this in your latest book. Madrid - Ginger Restaurant, Plaza del Angel,12, 28012 Madrid, 91 369 10 59. Located in Hostal Persal. you have to look hard to see the sign "Ginger". Great food very reasonably priced. Our local friends introduced us to it. Owned by the same people who operate La Finca de Susana. Much less rushed than La Finca.
Cadaques - La Gritta Pizzeria and Restaurant. Right on the plaza facing the water front. Best Spanish value meal we had at lunch time.
William Campbell in Ottawa, ON Canada 07/10/2009
Instead of wondering where to grab lunch, and after a week of tapas, we went to the El Corte Ingles store at the Placa de Catalunya and grabbed chips, sandwiches, and water. Really inexpensive, great time people watching outside as we nibbled. I find grocery stores very interesting places to visit outside the US. Plus they are usually convenient and cheap. Encourage more people to do this!
Amy Teague in Fishers, IN USA 06/08/2009
We discovered a terrific tapas and wine bar, Ay...Maricru!, in Sevilla (located at Pasaje de Vila 6, 954 56 48 24). I would recommend visiting and adding to next guidebook. It had a nice upscale atmosphere with terrific 2-3 euro tapas, most notably a wonderful rendition of Andalusian spinach and garbanzos. It is a bit of a quieter stop but a nice change of pace to the bustling Barrio Santa Cruz district. Husband and wife owners are friendly and welcoming.
Russ Lorber in Westminster, MD USA 06/06/2009
palaumusica.org
Gaudi colleaugue inspired - reasonable rates for concerts
Stephanie in Brinkerhoff, MI USA 05/18/2009
Antica Romeo restaurant - Nerja. You can't tell from the entry but they have one of the best seaside dining areas in town. Great, reasonable food - fantastic views.
Joan McKey in North Vancouver, BC Canada 05/14/2009
Arroceria Gala restaurant in Madrid. Very good paella and very nice atmosphere. Located near the Prado Museum.Calle Moratín #322 91 429 2562
spainfan in Washington, DC USA 05/08/2009
You should encourage Barcelona visitors to buy the Artticket (instead of mentioning it). With ticket prices now even higher, the 20 Euro ticket pays for itself after just two top attractions (Picasso Museum & Casa Mila).
Dave in Philadelphia, PA USA 03/31/2009
A stroll through the El Retiro Park on a Sunday morning is a great low-cost activity and an easy way to acclimate to the time change. There are a variety of street performers there to amuse young and old. I was particularly fond of the performance of Goldilocks and The Three Bears I witnessed.
Cliff Gilbert in Mount Laurel, NJ USA 03/31/2009
My Wife and I just returned from 14 nights in Spain and Portgugal. We used Rick's books to plan our trip and took them with us. They were a great help. vueling airline is our travel tip. We booked flights 6 weeks ahead on vueling.com and flew from Barcelona to Lisbon for $68 each, Lisbon to Madrid for $59 each, and Seville to Barcelona for $63 each. This included all taxes and fees, including 10 euros to check a bag, 2 or 3 euros to select your seat, and 8.5 euros to use a credit card when booking. Spotless Airbus A320's. We could not have had the same trip without vueling.
ED ERWIN in CORSICANA, TX USA 03/23/2009
I needed to have a PIN on my credit card to use it in the AVE train ticket machines at Atocha in Madrid, so I had to use a debit card instead. (Round-trip Madrid to Segovia AVE was only 15.10 euros, though!) Segovia AVE station to town bus was 0.86 euros each way. There is also a Toledo TI branch on Plaza de Zocodover to the left of the keyhole gate. Lady at Segovia TI spoke very little English; we had a hard time even asking for the bus schedule. There is a grocery store (Dia) not that far from the Roman aqueduct in Segovia; I wish that had been on the map.
Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 03/06/2009
Madrid: The Templo de Debod was fascinating, an easy walk from the Palacio Real. Really fabulous Christmas lights. The Metro system is fantastic, clean, cheap and easy to navigate.
Seville: The flamenco show at Casa de la Memoria was just the "right amount" of flamenco. We didn't want a long program, or an expensive one. This one is one hour and 16 euros.
Arlyce in Stillwater, MN USA 01/16/2009
El Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales in Madrid. The tour was entirely in Spanish but you didn't need to know what was being said to appreciate the beauty and art of the monastery. It was a great addition to the other sites Rick mentioned.
Jennifer Chen in Fremont, CA USA 01/03/2009
Archivo General De Indias Avenida Constitución S/N 41001 Sevilla, Spain 954 500 528? 954 219 485? - Fax
They have a wonderful exhibit of Spain's role in what is today the USA and how Spain helped the 13 colonies gain independence from Britain, including lots of incredible, original documents and maps. FREE admission!
Jon Strebler in Chula Vista, CA USA 01/03/2009