Portugal

Best and worst sights, experiences and destinations:

Best: Fado at A Baiuca in the Alfama.
Why: It was just a terrific evening, so much fun. We loved every aspect of it. The parade of singers each with a slightly different stype, the gyspsy grandmother's singing and dacing, the surprise of the owner being a wondersul singer in her own right. Of course it caters primarily to tourists but it still feels genuine.

Marylene Pastides in Columbia, MO USA 11/20/2009

Best: Coach Museum, Belem/Lisbon
Why: Monastery, Gulbenkian, and Pena Palace (Sintra) excellent as expected.Coach Museo a delightful surprise. In addition to the best collection of royal and papal coaches & Sedan chairs is a moving audio visual program (2nd floor) on King Carlos the First who was assassinated with one of his sons in 1908. gave us a better understanding of the end of the monarchy and move towards Salazar et al.

Worst: None
Why: All recommended were at least what was suggested

George in Pittsburgh, PA USA 10/10/2009

Best: Kopke tasting room - great comfortable relaxing place with excellent views of the river
Why: unexpected nice, relaxing place

(FYI - my trip was just 3.5 days in Porto only)

Lisa Cameron in Brookline, MA USA 09/19/2009

Worst: Ruins at Conimbrga
Why: These were not impressive. There is some HORRID "reconstruction" and "improvements" that totally ruin the overall expereince. Skip it. Go to Evora and see the ruins, go to Spain and see the great ruins at Merida, go anywhere else. Sad what they have done here!

Carol in Atlanta, GA USA 05/28/2009

Best: Lisbon Walker
Why: We hired Rita, a private guide from this group, for a 3-hr. walking tour of Lisbon. It was worth every penny. We walked every neighborhood of the old city while Rita told delightful stories of the history of Lisbon. She was warm, interesting, well-educated, and spoke English very well.

Worst: Nothing - we loved Portugal
Why: People are friendly, food is great, history is interesting, crime is low, and it's beautiful . . . WOW, all that coastline!

Brenda VanAmburgh in Fort Worth, TX USA 05/17/2009

Worst:
Why:

Kurt in New York , NY USA 03/21/2009

Best: Lisbon - Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara
Why: Stupendous view- just as represented!

Also, the Elevador Santa Justa. Wait till after dark. No huge crowds and the view (from where the elevator lets you off, walk up the stairs ALL THE WAY to the top) with all the city lights is astounding. (Bonus - the charge is included in the Viva Viagem card.)

Worst: Trams and funiculars in Lisbon (during the day)
Why: On a Saturday in the off season(!) (11/1/08) they were crammed with herds of tourists. I guess either don't go on Saturday, start early in the day, or go to the beginning of the route, get in line, and stake out a good place on the vehicle. Or figure out if there is a European holiday and just avoid!

Beverly Rabenberg in Austin, TX USA 11/24/2008

Best: Sintra
Why: Palace was awesome and super helpful staff

Worst: Fado at Canto do Camões, Lisbon
Why: Dishonest business methods. The music was OK but when the bill came, we were charged almost 40 euros for cheese that was never on the table. The wait staff was very rude. The French tourists at the table next to us had the same experince.

kat in NY, NY USA 08/28/2008

Worst: Policarpo City Tours in Evora (now Incoming Alejento)
Why: The RS guidebook says there is a two-person minimum. That is now a four person minimum and they will make absolutely no attempt to pair you up with others. If your party doesn't consist of 4 people, don't bother calling.

Colette in Cottage Grove, OR USA 06/29/2008

Best: Salema
Why: We agree this is wonderful. It is a very quiet little town with nothing "touristy" to do. But it is beautiful and relaxing and the people are friendly. Note that John and Annette are thinking of selling the Pension A Mare, so accommodation here may change next year - or a reader might decide to buy it!

Danny Mittleman in Chicago, IL USA 06/23/2008

Best: Pena Palace
Why: So eclectic with wonderful views both inward and outward.

Worst: Praca Commercial
Why: Though this may be the tourist hub, we avoid it as it seems to be a waste of time and there are better places to catch buses, et al. (Getting to know Rossio/Restaradore metro and the 3 squares above them is a far better central place for getting around Lisbon).

Christopher Allen in Berkeley, CA USA 05/05/2008

Best: Beaches around Cape Sagres
Why: Spectacular and pristine beaches

F. & C. Weiss in Victoria, BC Canada 05/03/2008

Worst: Coimbra
Why: Driving there from Spain was difficult-not clearly marked. We felt book overrated this destination...although Restaurante Italia was great-wonderful waiter.

Joan in JACKSONVILLE, FL USA 01/17/2008

Best: Cape St. Vincent (in the Algarve)
Why: I rented a bike in Sagres (10 euros for a half-day) and biked from Sagres to Cape St. Vincent (and back). The lighthouse was closed, but the views were amazing! It was my favorite thing in Portugal. A close second was the Moorish Castle in Sintra.

Worst: Castelo Sao Jorge, Lisbon
Why: I was there on a foggy day, so the view wasn't much, and the price has gone up to 5 euros (2.50 with student card). Taking little bus 37 up to the castle was fun, though!

Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 01/05/2008

Best: Fado at Canto do Camões.
Why: Superb food and music! My only complaint would be that the New Year's Eve prices were not made clear when I made my reservation (90 euros per person). However it was worth it.

Karis in Cross Plains, WI USA 01/04/2008

Best: The Douro Valley region
Why: Not being a wine snob,and my wife doesn't drink, I had discounted it for those reasons. We sere there on a day trip in early October and it was worth the visit for its beauty. Seems like we could have found friendly accommodations away from the tourist crowds.

Worst: Peniche, Pt
Why: I know this is not featured in your Portugal book, but nothing but tourists trying to find out why they traveled to this peninsula town. Loud music on the main square.

Don Karpen in Talent, OR USA 10/16/2007

Best: Salema
Why: Rick Steves absolutely got it right by recommending Salema as the best place in the Algarve. It was extremely relaxing and beautiful. Thanks!

Jon Seibald in New York, NY USA 10/02/2007

Best: Sintra
Why: Sintra seemed the most authentic and non-touristy of all spots we visited

Worst: Nazare
Why: I can't believe Rick devotes a chapter to this place. All my wife and I could think of was Atlantic City - touristy and cheesy.

Cort Cramer in Watertown, MA USA 10/02/2007

Best: Douro Valley / Pinhao & Chanceleiros
Why: This trip included my children (son 15; daughter 17), whose foreign travel has been limited to Paris and Quebec. The Douro was friendly, rural, primitive, spectacular ... and a great introduction to wine (yes, they tasted and actually liked wine as well as port!). Everything you described was accurate, although travelers to the Douro should pick up some of the books written for portophiles, that give driving directions to hidden quintas and special sites.

Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros (http://www.chanceleiros.com) is another wonderful place to stay a short distance outside Pinhao. Pricing would probably make it moderate/luxury (ca Eu 120/day, breakfast included; dinner Eu 30), but it is like staying at a resort.

Worst: Lisbon
Why: The city is wonderful, but (a) I now have personal experience with a pickpocket ... and it cost several hundred Euros in cash; and (b) parking is extraordinarily expensive (we used an underground car park in Restauradores and didn't move the car the entire time we were in Lisbon -- 3 days -- it cost €130, almost $200). You do advise travelers they don't need a car in Lisbon (you're absolutely right). It really would pay to turn one rental car in when you get to Lisbon and then re-rent another car when leaving Lisbon for the rest of your trip.

Jason Zielonka in Doylestown, PA USA 08/30/2007

Best: Sintra, all of it
Why: So beautiful and so compact -- the town looks the best it ever has (I've visited four times over about 7 years)

Earl Johnson in Dowling Park, FL USA 08/13/2007

Best: The Douro Valley
Why: We loved our time in the Quinta de Marrocos. We had them make us (two couples) an evening meal for 25 euros a piece for a three course meal with accompanying wines. We were served in the summer kitchen by Cesar and his younger daughter. It was magnificent.

Worst: Coimbra
Why: We just had a hard time. We were driving and had a very bad time getting into the city. We also chose badly from among the suggested activities I think.

Jane Leingang in Evansville, IN USA 08/06/2007

Best: visit to Quinta do Panascal
Why: great walk through the vineyards (but avoid the heat of the day!) nice tastings, cool views

Worst: Solar do Vino do Porto
Why: Showcases of lots of bottles of Port. Period. One unfriendly, unhelpful guy stood there watching us as we walked around the cases and checked out the maps. Couldn't even find the comfy chairs in what I assume is the sampling area until I stepped up to peer over the bottle exhibits. The guy never spoke, so I assumed you had to have a substantial number of people or book the place for tastings. The four of us were the only visitors there on a Saturday afternoon. Bummer.

Marcy Nicklas in Frederick, MD USA 07/23/2007

Best: Salema
Why: It was relaxing and beautiful. The people were very friendly.

Worst: Lisbon
Why: My family and I were severely disappointed with Lisbon. The city is dirty and overrun with drugs and prostitution. Getting through the airport was an absolute nightmare; it was totally chaotic and the immigration agents had no control over the unruly crowd. My 52 year old mother was literally shoved to the ground by a man who couldn't wait through the line like the rest of us and similar incidents happened about every 15 minutes. It took us over two hours just to get our passport stamped so that we could leave the country.

Daryl in Raleigh, NC USA 07/18/2007

Best: Sintra, Alfama in Lisbon, Evora
Why: The Alfama in Lisbon was truly "stopped in time". Mesmerizing to visit. Open doors & shutters with people shouting to each other across the building! It is amazing to see that people still live like this! Sintra was a wonderful to visit. Lovely shops with quality merchandise to purchase, beautiful, winding roads with lush vegetation. Both castles, Pena Palace & National Palace were fun to visit. Evora - loved visiting the little town especially the bone chapel! Lovely shops & restaurants.

Karen Reeder in Dallas, tx USA 07/05/2007

Best: Lagos
Why: The only place for crafts and unique shopping.

Marty in Vaughn, KY USA 07/02/2007

Best: Pastelaria de Belem (bakery) in Lisbon
Why: This is the original bakery where they first made "pasteis de nata", and they're still the best. Not to be missed.

Worst: Nazare
Why: Nazare is nice, just make sure you don't go there in the summer. It can get almost as bad (touristy) as the Algarve.

Beatriz Costa in Seattle, WA USA 06/29/2007

Best: Sintra was awesome.
Why: Moorish castle and Pena palace are amazing sites.

Mike Soboeiro in Pinehurst, NC USA 06/24/2007

Best: Sintra, the Douro Valley and Cape Sagres.
Why: In Sintra, the magical palaces, Moorish castle ruins and pretty town provided a really fun day. Unlike some other destinations in Portugal, the town of Sintra seems to “get it,” offering visitors friendly and patient advice on the logistics of touring the place. The vineyard scenery of the Douro Valley is stunning, rivaling that of Tuscany. The easygoing lifestyle here differs markedly from the touristy Algarve and hectic Lisbon, so the people are a lot friendlier. When you look off the cliffs at Cape Sagres and see the perfectly round horizon stretching into infinity, you really do feel like you’re at “the end of the earth.”

Worst: The food. Salema.
Why: Although we had a few excellent meals, the food in general was disappointing. Also, Salema is not the haven it is cracked up to be. While it did afford a very pleasant morning beach stroll, that’s about all it offered. Plus, the people were openly hostile. I smiled and made eye contact with locals on two different occasions, but they glared back at me coldly. My husband was looking through his camera taking pictures of the cliffs, when a local fisherman in a boat on the beach became violent, apparently thinking he was being photographed. He started swearing and screaming and throwing things out of his boat at my husband.

Vicki Phillips in Denver, CO USA 05/17/2007

Best: Quinta Panascal near Pinhao
Why: After two hours of driving (including getting lost and ending up in Armarma), I was able to visit the Quinta Panascal. The self-guided tour was not too bad. The weather was just right for viewing the vineyards. The people were very friendly here, despite my limited knowledge of Portuguese.

Worst: Cristo Rei
Why: In Cacilhas across the Tagus from Lisbon, the bus line 101 doesn't operate every 20 minutes, sometimes there is a 40 minute gap. Be sure to have plenty of time to go up and back. Also, the Carris transit cards don't work, so be sure to get a ticket at Cacilhas before taking the bus.

Josh Hanz in Frisco, TX USA 03/03/2007

Best: Nazare in February
Why: What a refreshing change from touring museums. Many of the women in Nazare really do wear petticoats. We had fun sampling the dried fruit -the plumpest dried apricots I have ever eaten, nuts,and exotic (exotic to me) offerings from the street vendors. It was fun walking along the beach and seeing the sunset. It was enjoyable to take a ride up the funicular and have a fresh fish dinner in the upper part of town. We had difficulty finding our way back to the funicular - so pay attention. Nazare was a wonderful place to stroll and people watch. Hands down -our favorite destination of our 17 town trip. We stayed an extra day here - it was so good. We also enjoyed exploring the Rick Steves "Nearby Nazare towns".

Jan Wishau in Columbia, MO USA 02/24/2007

Best: Nazare
Why: The culture, people, and prices. + It is beautiful! The people were friendly and helpful. It was an expireance to see the women wearing 7 petty coats, the widows in black, the laundry hanging, the Carnival festival, and political campaigners. The funicular ride was fun. The seafood is great, we stayed in a residential(very spacious with washer). It was pretty cheap compared to most places we stopped. I love Nazare and highly recommend it, can't wait to go back.

Julie in Los Alamos, NM USA 02/22/2007

Best: Restaurante Adega do Ribatejo Lisboa
Why: Rick recommends this place. It was really great.My wife and I were the only tourists there. The audience sang along with the fado. The cook came out of the kitchen to sing fado...I even sang along after a few songs. It cost about 20 Euro for our food and drinks. The codfish is good too. The main fado singer is blind. We took a taxi from Placa dos restaurantes and the cost was about 5 euro. So all in all it was a fun evening for less than 30 euro.

Worst: Lisboa card problem and attitude of the company
Why: We bought lisboa cards to visit Sintra. BUt they never told us about the vouchers that have to be presented to get into palaces free. So we didn't take our booklets with us. Consequently, we had to pay for entrance into the Pena Palace and Moorish castle. When I complained the tourist agency basically said "tough luck". I wasn't too happy with their attitude. So if you buy the Lisboa Card, be sure to have your brochure with you as well as the card. Otherwise, "tough luck tourist".

Bill Skelton in Newnan, GA USA 01/01/2007