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Portugal Guidebook

Best and worst sights, experiences and destinations:


Best: Sintra
Why: Definitely worth the day trip. The Pena Palace, Moorish Castle, and National Palace were all very interesting. Probably better than anything in Lisbon.

Worst: Neighborhood Strolls
Why: His hand-drawn maps need serious help. I have a feeling my 7 year-old son could do a better job. Very hard to find certain places.

Aaron in Edmond, OK USA 01/16/2012


Best: Monastery of Jeronimos
Why: Specatacular architecture. Able to move around at your own pace. Fast-moving line. Lots of photo opportunities.

Worst: Gulbenkian Museum
Why: Collection is not very impressive. Difficult to see how it rates 3 stars, i.e. equivalent to Prado or Louvre.

Vince Bacani in Toronto, ON Canada 10/31/2011


Best: Algarve
Why: We stayed with hotel points at the Sheraton algarve in albufiera. It's a public beach though and well worth a trip there to see the incredible red and white cliffs and the beautiful beach. We were there on a full moon and it was spectacular. Also loved the blue of the sea in salema at high tide while we ate sardines and drank beer

MW in Portland , OR USA 10/27/2011


Best: In Lisbon: Walking tour --Inside Lisbon 3 hr. tour of old city(sign up on-line prior to arrival); Belem area-The Monastery of Jeronimos & Cloister, Monument to the Discoveries, Belem Tower and the Maritime Museum
Why: Maritime Museum downplayed in the guidebook but we found it fascinating with ship models, relics from voyages and a huge warehouse with full size beautiful old boats.

Worst: Lisbon: Cafe Pasteis de Belem
Why: Too noisy, hectic and touristy--custard tarts good but had better pastries in Sintra, Coimbra small bakeries, cafes in nicer, quieter atmosphere!

susan & milton martin in Hopewell, VA USA 10/20/2011


Best: Page 94 - Ferry from Belem to Porto Brandao for dinner
Why: It was fun and easy - and the recommended restaurant was great. We would have no idea that this was an option without the suggestion in the book. Thank you!

Kyle in San Francisco, CA USA 10/18/2011


Worst: Salema a mare
Why: Look no further? Checked into room 1 with no a/c hot and sticky, door doesn't lock, streetlight shining in the room all night, traffic noise and no top sheet? Jeez. Spent one sleepless night out of three booked and checked right out. Absentee ownership pretty evident. Checked right into residential hotel Salema with crisp rooms all amenities better breakfast better location and beautiful view. Price? $5E cheaper! Your book has been invaluable so far but this place doesn't deserve your recommendation in our opinion.

Thanks!

Nick and Inger

Nick NY USA 10/04/2011


Best: Conimbrigia
Why: As mentioned above. It's severely underfunded, but has an excellent museum and wonderful access to the dig.

Worst: Nazare
Why: Other than the funicular and the restaurant I mentioned, it's just another beach.

Peter D. Springberg, MD in Fort Collins, CO USA 09/16/2011


Best: Conimbrigia
Why: As mentioned above. It's severely underfunded, but has an excellent museum and wonderful access to the dig.

Worst: Nazare
Why: Other than the funicular and the restaurant I mentioned, it's just another beach.

Peter D. Springberg, MD in Fort Collins, CO USA 09/16/2011


Best: Salema and Obidos
Why: The best town in the Algarve is Salema especially with babies. We visited Lagos and Sagres and were very happy with our choice.

Catherine in Montreal, QC Canada 09/08/2011


Best: the best piece of information
Why: Get a pin number for the charge card.

J Burkett in Scottsdale , AZ USA 08/22/2011


Best: Lisbon Walker Tours by Claudia, Alentejo Driving Tour with Professor Libanio Murteira Reis
Why: The three hour "Revelation" walking tour was an excellent way to get oriented to Lisbon's history and geography. We also enjoyed the "Old Town" tour of the Alfama -- lots of stair climbing. Claudia is an excellent tour guide: friendly, knowledgable and passionate about Lisbon. We received a 5 euro discount when we showed your Portugal guidebook.

Professor Libanio Murteira Reis took a driving tour of the Alentejo region, primarily the hill town of Monsaraz and megalith sites near Evora. We selected the itinerary. He picked us up at our hotel in Evora in the morning and drove us through the scenic countryside tol Monsaraz. Easy place to explore with excellent views of the surrounding golden plains and reservoir. Visited a pottery village on our way back to Evora. Ate a delicious lunch with fresh food at a small restaurant outside Evora's defensive wall that we would have never found on our own. In the afternoon, we visited several megalith sites, which we found somewhat interesting, but not a pleasant or insightful as Monsaraz. We liked the personalized tour and one-on-one learning experience. It was also insightful to hear Libanio's perspective on contemporary Portugal. This driving tour was a treat because as New Yorkers who seldom drive, we did not feel comfortable driving a car in Portugal on our own.

Worst: We were frustrated that our prepaid metro card could not be used on the tram.
Why: We live in New York City and expected all the mass transit systems in Lisbon to accept the same form of payment (prepaid card). The prepaid metro card would not work on the tram nor the bus. We learned the the Colinas card was discontinued from a station agent.

When we returned home to New York, we read an update on your Web site about the new daily transit card (Viva Viagem), which may have worked for us on all modes of transportation.

On a positive note, the metro station agents are friendly, but don't know anything about using metro cards on the tram and bus.

The stations are very clean and tile designs on the walls are beautiful.

Victoria Wakins in New York, NY USA 06/19/2011


Best: Lisbon Walker Tours by Claudia, Alentejo Driving Tour with Professor Libanio Murteira Reis
Why: The three hour "Revelation" walking tour was an excellent way to get oriented to Lisbon's history and geography. We also enjoyed the "Old Town" tour of the Alfama -- lots of stair climbing. Claudia is an excellent tour guide: friendly, knowledgable and passionate about Lisbon. We received a 5 euro discount when we showed your Portugal guidebook.

Professor Libanio Murteira Reis took a driving tour of the Alentejo region, primarily the hill town of Monsaraz and megalith sites near Evora. We selected the itinerary. He picked us up at our hotel in Evora in the morning and drove us through the scenic countryside tol Monsaraz. Easy place to explore with excellent views of the surrounding golden plains and reservoir. Visited a pottery village on our way back to Evora. Ate a delicious lunch with fresh food at a small restaurant outside Evora's defensive wall that we would have never found on our own. In the afternoon, we visited several megalith sites, which we found somewhat interesting, but not a pleasant or insightful as Monsaraz. We liked the personalized tour and one-on-one learning experience. It was also insightful to hear Libanio's perspective on contemporary Portugal. This driving tour was a treat because as New Yorkers who seldom drive, we did not feel comfortable driving a car in Portugal on our own.

Worst: We were frustrated that our prepaid metro card could not be used on the tram.
Why: We live in New York City and expected all the mass transit systems in Lisbon to accept the same form of payment (prepaid card). The prepaid metro card would not work on the tram nor the bus. We learned the the Colinas card was discontinued from a station agent.

When we returned home to New York, we read an update on your Web site about the new daily transit card (Viva Viagem), which may have worked for us on all modes of transportation.

On a positive note, the metro station agents are friendly, but don't know anything about using metro cards on the tram and bus.

The stations are very clean and tile designs on the walls are beautiful.

Victoria Wakins in New York, NY USA 06/19/2011


Best: Lisbon Walker Tours by Claudia, Alentejo Driving Tour with Professor Libanio Murteira Reis
Why: The three hour "Revelation" walking tour was an excellent way to get oriented to Lisbon's history and geography. We also enjoyed the "Old Town" tour of the Alfama -- lots of stair climbing. Claudia is an excellent tour guide: friendly, knowledgable and passionate about Lisbon. We received a 5 euro discount when we showed your Portugal guidebook.

Professor Libanio Murteira Reis took a driving tour of the Alentejo region, primarily the hill town of Monsaraz and megalith sites near Evora. We selected the itinerary. He picked us up at our hotel in Evora in the morning and drove us through the scenic countryside tol Monsaraz. Easy place to explore with excellent views of the surrounding golden plains and reservoir. Visited a pottery village on our way back to Evora. Ate a delicious lunch with fresh food at a small restaurant outside Evora's defensive wall that we would have never found on our own. In the afternoon, we visited several megalith sites, which we found somewhat interesting, but not a pleasant or insightful as Monsaraz. We liked the personalized tour and one-on-one learning experience. It was also insightful to hear Libanio's perspective on contemporary Portugal. This driving tour was a treat because as New Yorkers who seldom drive, we did not feel comfortable driving a car in Portugal on our own.

Worst: We were frustrated that our prepaid metro card could not be used on the tram.
Why: We live in New York City and expected all the mass transit systems in Lisbon to accept the same form of payment (prepaid card). The prepaid metro card would not work on the tram nor the bus. We learned the the Colinas card was discontinued from a station agent.

When we returned home to New York, we read an update on your Web site about the new daily transit card (Viva Viagem), which may have worked for us on all modes of transportation.

On a positive note, the metro station agents are friendly, but don't know anything about using metro cards on the tram and bus.

The stations are very clean and tile designs on the walls are beautiful.

Victoria Wakins in New York, NY USA 06/19/2011


Best: funiculars and exploring the "upper city/town" in Lisbon and Porto
Why: unusual experience, different than anything I have seen in other countries, hard to wrap your mind around it untill you go there and do it, then it all makes sense. even the maps made sense afterwards

Pat in Marlborough, MA USA 05/17/2011


Best: Palacio da Bolsa in Porto
Why: We wouldn't have known about this otherwise and it was an amazing building. Don't think it's among the main popular sites in Porto, but it's worth the visit.

We also followed many of your walking tours in Lisbon and Coimbra. They were very well documented and clear.

A. Ergas in Farmington Hills, MI USA 05/09/2011


Worst: Nations Park
Why: Couldn't find much to do there. It was big and empty and I wasn't sure where to go once I got there. I had a drink outdoors and looked at the water, which was pleasant enough, but it didn't seem worth the effort to get there on the Metro.

Ruth Baer in Lexington, KY USA 05/07/2011


Best: Lisbon Walker
Why: Great Guided tour of Lisboa. As always, my first adventure in Rick Steves fashion, I take the suggested waling tour. "Lisbon Walker" provided everything I needed. They acclimate you to the city and then your good to go with Rick's book by yourself.

Bill in Buena Park, CA USA 01/10/2011


Best: Fatima
Why: The Holy Mary appeared there.

richard UK 12/01/2010


Best: Sintra, Portugal
Why: The palaces, the town, the places to visit, the people were all great.

Worst: Evora
Why: I just was not in love with it after I saw Obidos and Sintra.

Caroline Hill in New York, NY USA 10/16/2010


Best: Port Wine cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia
Why: Atmosphere of the experiece. I was traveling with my 15 year old daughter and 87 year old father. It was something all 3 of us enjoyed

Worst: Pena Palace in Sintra
Why: It was CROWDED!! You have to stay with the tour, they rush you through and you can't take pictures inside. To top it off, it was up in a cloud that day (in August), we couldn't see anything and it was really, really cold. Watch the weather.

Dolores Scott in Monson, MA USA 09/13/2010


Best: Solar do Porto do Vinho, Casa do Alentejo, Torre de Belem, a Fenicular Ride
Why: Solar do Porto do Vinho Casa do Alentejo- Great atmosphere, best "snappy" in town (Snappy is a 7up clone found in Lisbon),our group tried a variety of foods from the fish to beef and we all really enjoyed our meals. I would also recommend the dessert platter as a fun splurge because the platter features local traditional cakes. http://www.casadoalentejo.pt/flash.html Torre de Belem- I really enjoyed the Torre's design and architecture. Funicular Ride- Lisbon is a city with unique modes of transportation but nothing compares to the simple and enjoyable ride that this vehicle provides.

Worst: Any Restaurant that had a Street Promoter
Why: We stayed in the Restauradores area and we quickly found out that many of the restaurants in the area use street promoter (similar to a carnival barker). These people would tell you things like this is the best food in Lisbon (as some out group found was true false). This establishments also charged per roll.

Kevin in Lake Forest, CA USA 07/11/2010


Best: Senhora Mae (Alfama Section of Lisbon)
Why: A little tricky to find because there is no sign...the name is only on the front glass of the restaurant. This is a great lunch spot in Alfama. We also went back for Dinner the next night. It is located on the Tram 28 Line just above the Cathedral Se on the way to Castelo San Jorge. Dinner was very good but the lunch was even better. My wife had the black pork tenderloin and I had the braised beef. We cleaned the plates.

Worst: A Tasquinha (Alfama Section of Lisbon)
Why: Mentioned in the Portugal book but it is a quintessential tourist trap. The location is good but the food is overpriced and poor. Go to Senhora Mae instead.

Rob in Pittsburgh, Pa USA 06/13/2010


Best: Gulbenkian Museum
Why: Just beautiful things. Maybe the best museum I have ever been in and the free concert on a Sunday afternoon was an added treat.

Worst: Pena Palace
Why: Beautiful but to costly.

Carmelita Stone in Plattsburg, MO USA 06/10/2010


Best: Direstions to drive the Duoro Valley were right on
Why: Took us on a great drive we would never have found ourselves.

Janet Hosenpud in Jacksonville, Fl USA 05/27/2010


Best: All good
Why: On the whole excellent advise and we would recommend your two week outline as a good "base".As to eating we walked around and picked the place with the least tourists and most locals(families a +) and never had a bad meal or an "uncomfortable price" House wines uniformly good.

Worst: Sintra Pena
Why: Swarms of tourists.Rushed "staff supervised" no pictures,visit of a mass of Victorian clutter selected by a tasteless German.Really 'who cares' about some relatively obscure Victorian ex "royals".Besides Rick missed the only "interesting" item the young,mostly naked girl,behind the door way on wall where King could contemplate it while on his bathroom "throne".A casual look into the room from the roped entrance will miss it.One Euro postcards,again worst by 100% in Country and only limited coverage(none of the bathroom lady)

Thank goodness did not follow your advise about the bus.Took from station(not flat 300'elevation gain) and stayed on when a mass of 100+ people mobbed the bus door at the National Palace stop in town.Took 15+ minuets to get a bus load on and more than half got left at the curb to fight with the mob for the next bus.Ride station to top and walk down. Only truly "over priced" disappointing site in Portugal.National Palace of much more historical interest.

Vincent F Biondo Jr in Del Mar, CA USA 05/14/2010


Best: Salema
Why: We planned on staying there 3 nights but stayed a week in an apartment at Pension Mare. I would still be there if I could. Quiet (late March), lots of hiking, lots of good restaurants and lots of friendly people. Good place to relax.

Steve in Westcliffe, CO USA 04/27/2010


Best: Solar do Vinho do Porto (Lisbon and Porto), Sao Francisco Church (Porto), House of Fado (Lisbon)
Why: Porto and Lisbon: At the Solar do Vinho it was possible to sample items from makers without open-to-the-public cavas, in a peaceful, even serene atmosphere. Highly recommended. Porto: I got completely lucky with the Sao Francisco Church: they were having a free concert by the Banda Sinfonica Portuguesa (wind ensemble). An hour to look at the splendor and hear amazing music by Strauss and Dvorak too. (Lisbon) House of Fado: The listening stations were amazing, and hooked me on a new kind of music.

Worst: Strolling the Cais da Ribeira (Porto)
Why: Cais da Ribeira (Porto): Too touristy, too many cars, too many folks selling river cruises. Vila Nova de Gaia's side of the river is much better, for all the reasons you give in the book. I'd downgrade to a one-star level, and upgrade the Six Bridges river cruise to a 2.

Sally H in Kalamazoo, MI USA 03/29/2010


Worst: Salema
Why: It is not a quiet place, as most of Algarve's beaches and villages. It is not one of the most beautiful either. See Ponta da Piedade, Praia da Luz, Praia do Beliche... all towards West. Algarve has most posters and menus in English which tells you how little authentic it is in most places. It is expensive due to the fact that most of the population is foreign, and it is hard to get a meal without standing in line at least for an hour, in summer. It takes to go to places out of the road to see thr real Algarve.

maria in Lewiston , N. USA 03/13/2010


Best: Fado at A Baiuca in the Alfama.
Why: It was just a terrific evening, so much fun. We loved every aspect of it. The parade of singers each with a slightly different stype, the gyspsy grandmother's singing and dacing, the surprise of the owner being a wondersul singer in her own right. Of course it caters primarily to tourists but it still feels genuine.

Marylene Pastides in Columbia, MO USA 11/20/2009


Best: Coach Museum, Belem/Lisbon
Why: Monastery, Gulbenkian, and Pena Palace (Sintra) excellent as expected.Coach Museo a delightful surprise. In addition to the best collection of royal and papal coaches & Sedan chairs is a moving audio visual program (2nd floor) on King Carlos the First who was assassinated with one of his sons in 1908. gave us a better understanding of the end of the monarchy and move towards Salazar et al.

Worst: None
Why: All recommended were at least what was suggested

George in Pittsburgh, PA USA 10/10/2009


Best: Kopke tasting room - great comfortable relaxing place with excellent views of the river
Why: unexpected nice, relaxing place

(FYI - my trip was just 3.5 days in Porto only)

Lisa Cameron in Brookline, MA USA 09/19/2009


Worst: Ruins at Conimbrga
Why: These were not impressive. There is some HORRID "reconstruction" and "improvements" that totally ruin the overall expereince. Skip it. Go to Evora and see the ruins, go to Spain and see the great ruins at Merida, go anywhere else. Sad what they have done here!

Carol in Atlanta, GA USA 05/28/2009


Best: Lisbon Walker
Why: We hired Rita, a private guide from this group, for a 3-hr. walking tour of Lisbon. It was worth every penny. We walked every neighborhood of the old city while Rita told delightful stories of the history of Lisbon. She was warm, interesting, well-educated, and spoke English very well.

Worst: Nothing - we loved Portugal
Why: People are friendly, food is great, history is interesting, crime is low, and it's beautiful . . . WOW, all that coastline!

Brenda VanAmburgh in Fort Worth, TX USA 05/17/2009


Worst:
Why:

Kurt in New York , NY USA 03/21/2009