Portugal Guidebook
Favorite discoveries or tips:
Lisboa: Great views from 6th floor food court of Armazens do Chiado Sintra: Using Lisboa Card, one cashier pointed out it was cheaper to use separate coupons for Pena Palace, grounds, and Moorish Castle than to use the one combination coupon. Colombo Shopping Mall: Since it is right on the subway line, has a Continente (Target) open until midnight, and a fabulous food court (much better than Armazens do Chiado), this is a much better shopping spot Sintra: Get your ginginja here. It is only 1.10 Euros (versus 1.20 Euros in Lisbon), and comes served in a chocolate shot glass. Always order your ginginja sim elas (without berries). I noticed the bars would discard the uneaten berries into a sink and let them accumulate: I feared that they washed and re-used them. Also, the berries just take up space better left for the drink itself.
Vince Bacani in Toronto, ON Canada 10/31/2011
We rented a car and dropped it in Faro downtown near the bus station. The drop charge between countries is huge so we took the bus to Seville and rented another car there. Also great creative graffiti for the photographers. Supplemented Rick's book with Secret Lisbon
MW in Portland , OR USA 10/27/2011
We were in Portugal for a little over 2 weeks in Sept. 2011 and used the R. Steves 2011 Guidebook constantly--very helpful. Be aware that all admissions, transportation fares, etc. have gone up since book published but many do give senior discounts so always ask! Ask the taxi drivers how much the fare is before you get in or have your hotel call a reputable taxi--We got "taken" on the taxi ride from the airport to our hotel--What should have been 17 cost us 30 euros--He asked for 34 and showed us a chart that it cost that much, but we only had 30 euros on us and were too jet-lagged to argue!
We rented a car in Lisbon and drove to Evora, Obidos, Nazare, Alcobaca, Coimbra, Conimbriga and Porto where we dropped it off and took a 1 week Douro River Cruise--good highways, signage on their main highways, but tolls add up! The river cruise on the Douro Prince (48 passengers) highly recommended --beautiful scenery, service, food, day trips, relaxing after being on our own for a week. We are independent travelers normally but this small boat cruise was a nice change of pace!
susan & milton martin in Hopewell, VA USA 10/20/2011
So far the book has been spot on.
Nick NY USA 10/04/2011
There's an excellent new restaurant in Evora. We were staying at Residencial Os Manueis and Eduardo there suggested we try the Dom Joaquin restaurant. We had a wonderful dinner and enjoyed a delightful conversation with a pair of German tourists. It's on the Rua dos Penedos, 6.
Peter D Springberg, MD in Fort Collins, CO USA 09/30/2011
Yes, there's a superb restaurant in Peso da Regua; it's called Douro In (actually the In on their sign is inside the O), and is by far the best place we eaten at during our two weeks in Portugal. The sea bass with pasta at Taberna D'Adelia in Nazare was excellent. Coimbriga's Roman ruins were even better than Rome as one gets close to the mosaics, can interact with staff and is awed by the 35,000 sq. foot house pillars and pools.
Peter D. Springberg, MD in Fort Collins, CO USA 09/16/2011
Yes, there's a superb restaurant in Peso da Regua; it's called Douro In (actually the In on their sign is inside the O), and is by far the best place we eaten at during our two weeks in Portugal. The sea bass with pasta at Taberna D'Adelia in Nazare was excellent. Coimbriga's Roman ruins were even better than Rome as one gets close to the mosaics, can interact with staff and is awed by the 35,000 sq. foot house pillars and pools.
Peter D. Springberg, MD in Fort Collins, CO USA 09/16/2011
Santini's Gelati in Lisbon in the Barrio Alto Rua do Carmo 9 has the best Gelati in town.
We ate at the Indian restaurant in salema twice, it is not listed in the book but it was very good and a nice change from the seafood.
In Sintra the National Palace and Pene Palace are free on Sunday (not sure till what time). Not sure how busy it is on those days because we went on a Monday.
Catherine in Montreal, QC Canada 09/08/2011
My husband and I just returned from Portugal. On the "eating Lane" near Restauradores Metro in Lisbon is a wonderful little place called Sol Dourado. They have daily specials (5,5 euros/small and 7,5 euros/large. One large fed both me and my husband. Friendly people and wonderful food.
J Burkett in Scottsdale , AZ USA 08/22/2011
In Porto, to get to Villa Nova da Gaia, walk across the top of the Pont Luiz and take the teleferico down to the riverfront. Lots of views for 5 euros.
Elizabeth in Pittsburg, CA USA 07/15/2011
Attended a Fado ao Centro concert for 5 Euro and it was delightful! Opened only 6 weeks before by students and former students of Coimbra University. In addition to a professional performance, an interesting slide show on Coimbra fado tradition was shown. The earlier hours, lower cost and not having to purchase drinks was a terrific alternative for us. Located uphill from the Arco de Almedina on the left at Rua Quebra Castas, no. 7.
Nancy Lloyd in Allentown, PA USA 06/12/2011
Hello.
There's a new place in the city of Coimbra (PORTUGAL) named "Fado ao Centro" where everyone can go to, and listen to Fado from Coimbra. Also, they're opened everyday and are a cultural association, so you can speak to the workers there and know more about the history of Fado from Coimbra and also the University Traditions. I recommend this addition, since it's a great project in the city and a really nice cultural thing to know. Last time I checked rick steeves there wasn't any comment about this place but it seems it's been open since April so it's news in the city not only for the portuguese community but to every tourist that comes to this city.
Sara in Coimbra, Portugal 06/10/2011
We used Cristina Quental (919-922-480) as a all day guide in Lisbon, and she was WONDERFUL! We must have walked 6 miles and learned more than we could absorbe. She is pleasant and very well organized,we would highly recommend her to anyone seeking a guide in and around Lisbon.
Norbert Fratt in Oro Valley, AZ USA 06/04/2011
1-knowing the olives, etc are not free 2-knowing that the ATM key pads have only numbers 3-Knowing not to bother with travelers checks, etc 4-knowing about double and single portions 5-knowing about the canal/river boat trips
Pat in Marlborough, MA USA 05/17/2011
We took your tip to take the cheap river ferry across the river from Lisbon to Cacilhas. Even on a rainy morning it was good. But we found an interesting thing to visit that you didn't include: the last of the sailing ships of the Portuguese Navy, which is right near the ferry dock and is open for visitors at no charge. It is called the Fernando II e Gloria, an interesting visit especially for those into naval history and ships. They have a walking tour book in English to give to visitors. http://www.panoramio.com/photo/597936 also info on Wikipedia
A. Ergas in Farmington Hills, MI USA 05/09/2011
Sintra is fantastic, especially the Pena Palace and Moorish Castle. The self-guided walks in Lisbon also are excellent. The Monastery of Jeronimo in Belem is magical, I'm so glad I got to see that.
Ruth Baer in Lexington, KY USA 05/07/2011
Highly recommend Hotel Dom Pedro.
Joel Marcus in Media, PA USA 05/01/2011
Could you give recommendations on priorities for a 1 week trip?
Pam in Chevy Chase, MD USA 04/02/2011
Could you give recommendations on priorities for a 1 week trip?
Pam in Chevy Chase, MD USA 04/02/2011
Please explain why on page 120, April 2010 edition, you said that from Praia da Rocha and east to Faro is the worst part of the Algarve. I have a week booked this summer in Albufeira - just would like to know. Thanks.
Margaret Ramey in Pasadena, CA USA 02/20/2011
The book Portugal 2006 is quite useful. Please be informed that the Rossio Rail station was re-opened but the building looks like a commercial building and so it is not easy to be recognised as a rail station.
richard UK 12/01/2010
Vinologia - 46 Rua de Sao Joao - In Porto - just 1 block up from the Ribiera. You can visit multiple[le caves and hear the exact same story of how port wine is made or you can see one and then visit Vinologia and learn all the intricacies of ports for a cheaper price. This place focuses on independent producers (as opposed to the major conglomerates) and will guide to you what your tastes really identify with. Very knowledgeable employees and a small, intimate atmosphere
David Graham in Savoy, IL USA 11/01/2010
Quinta das Rosas in Nazare. Fabulous place, check out their web site: www.quintadasrosas.com In Coimbra: Casa Pombal right by the university and the funicular. Great views, breakfast, price and Dutch owner!
Ilana Slonim in Santa Fe, NM USA 10/25/2010
Please write the exact address of the places to visit (triple triangles etc) in the guidebook and the GPS coordinates would be helpful.
Caroline Hill in New York, NY USA 10/16/2010
Porto - there is a wonderful paved bike/walking trail along the entire water front (river and sea) of Vila Nove de Gaia. There is also a new bike rental shop (Blue Dragon?) at the base of the bridge in Porto. In addition to bike rentals, they offer sunset tours out to the estuary. We spent time in Pedras Salgadas in Tras Montes. They have rebuilt the old hot spring spa and are opening a new hotel there. They also have a new bike trail to Vila Pouca but we couldn't find a bike rental shop. We were visiting family roots so were fortunate to be in Monteiros for their Saint's Day celebration. All the villages in the area have one and they are a great way to sample local life. In Afonsim we took a tractor ride up the Mineau (the highest mountain in the area) for the most amazing views (360 degrees). The book really doesn't do Tras Montes justice. We stayed at a pension called "Machado" in Pedras Salgadas. Very large clean rooms for 20E/person which included breakfast. Restaurant was very good too. Staff didn't speak much english but made heroic efforts to help us.
Dolores Scott in Monson, MA USA 09/13/2010
Vila Baia condominiums in Praia da Luz, Lagos, Portugal. Great 1 and 2 bedroom apartments at a reasonable price, in a resort setting, complete with swimming pools and washers in the units.
Debra in Rumson, NJ USA 06/23/2010
I have recently used Portugal Guidebook 5th addition and have found it very helpful. In regard to accomodations in Obidos and the Albergaria Rainha Santa Isabel hotel, I do not agree that this is a "forgettable place" as mentioned in the book. It was very nice and all the staff could not have been more friendly or helpful. The attached restaurant was creative and excellent. It was one of the best two meals we had in Portugal. We ate there two nights. I suggest you should revisit this hotel and re-evaluate it.
Thomas Lenz in Moraga, CA USA 05/29/2010
The Guest House Douro in Porto was just about the best place we stayed and I would recommend it without reservation. Right on the Riberia in an historic house completely redone, English speaking hosts absolutely delightful, helpful, great breakfast
Janet Hosenpud in Jacksonville, Fl USA 05/27/2010
No Lisboa card for over 65. Except for the Cloisters(free) all the other sites only take 20% off(and a few 30%). They all give 50% to "seniors".Even with the free train to Sintra ,the card does not "pencil out".Please "qualify" your advise about the card to tell Seniors not to waste their money.
Excellent lunch at Dom Duarte in Batalha.Up stairs on square above Pasteliara. Wonderfull 6.50 plate with greens and a huge bowl of ribs cooked in wine and a liter jug of house wine.Ate late and owner and family took next table.Segredos do Douro in Pinhao.Pictures of old wine days on wall. Best meal in Portugal restaurante Gernika (industria,12 48300 Gernika.First course generous paella and 4bowl tureen of fish soup,steak for second and marvelous large puff pastry and bottle of water and full bottles of white for me and red for my wife, for 18 each.Nothing but locals and full of life.Went back next day for the special Sunday dinner.
Vincent F Biondo Jr in Del Mar, CA USA 05/14/2010
Metro: yes, the 7 Colina Pass is now 'viva viagem' but you can have as many days of '24-pass' added to it as you want. We happened to have help of a kiosk agent in Metro at the time...when not, the metro security guys were very willing to help explain the ticket kiosks Cheap Eats: We are staying in private VRBO apt (superb owner and management team) on the Praca de Camoes in Chiado/Baixa. Nearby, at 'Casa Da India LDA' at Rue Loreto 51 you can order great tasting grilled chicken as take out... for the price (whole-about 6-8 sections for EU 6,oo; and 1/2 chicken EU 3,00 ..also sides of rice, fries, either style whole or half order for under EU 2 per order...open 9am to 2am can eat in as well
Eileen in Kocherhans, CA USA 05/05/2010
Restaurante Bar Burgo Velho in Salema - excellent, modestly priced food and very polite and friendly owner. Very little English spoken. 10 Rua de Burgos
We also liked Mr Pickwick mentioned on your tour. Again, good food with modest prices.
We found most on your recommendations for restaurants to be too pricey for us. These are good budget options.
Steve in Westcliffe, CO USA 04/27/2010
Porto: Need a supermarket section as you have for Lisbon and other books in the series. There are plenty of benches along the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the river where one could picnic. Two suggestions, there's a supermarket near Trindade, downhill on Rua de Camoes/Rua dos Aliados where the street changes name, west side (look for supermercado banners, can't recall the name), ground floor of white office building. Alt option: El Corte Ingles has opened 6 story building on yellow subway line, south of the river (towards D. Joao, at the Joao de Deus stop) with everything you could want for picnicking--or picking up enough food to offset the effects of drinking port between visiting cavas. Which is a really good idea, as the eateries are getting more expensive in Vila Nova de Gaia.
Sally H in Kalamazoo, MI USA 03/29/2010
I am an old Portuguese guide married to an American man and I have your last book on Portugal just to see what seems to be more attractive to Americans. The books are great, but innevitably they need periodic updates: The Tivoli/Feira Popular in Lisbon no longer exists. I have just read all the corrections published here and I can tell you that they are ALL CORRECT: subway additions, restaurants,bus and metro tickets, trains, even the comments on Salema,etc. The beaches of Luz, Ponta da Piedade and Beliche are much more pleasant to visit than Tavira or Salema. I don't agree that Nazaré is not and old fishing village, because it is: yet the old part is up the hill, not by the sea, where most restaurants and tourist shops are. I would suggest that whoever goes to Coimbra should stop at least for one hour at the excellent Roman ruins of Conimbriga, south of Coimbra. Maria Ingwall
maria in Lewiston , N. USA 03/13/2010
Tour of Lisbon with Paulo from Inside Tours. Paulo was incredibly knowledgeable about Lisbon and Portugal's history, making it very alive. A 3 hour tour became 5 hours and we enjoyed every minute.
Carol in Ridgewood, NJ USA 02/12/2010
Highly recommend The Cervejaria Ramiro Restaurant for high quality seafood (Av. Almirante Reis, N1-H). Very popular spot with locals. The manager Pedro speaks perfect English and treats customers like family. This is strictly a seafood restaurant, with only one meat entree and no salads. But when we asked Pedro about salads, he replied "Not a problem" and less than 10 mins. later a delicious salad misto appeared. We enjoyed this restaurant so much that we ate there again on our final night in Lisbon.
Candus in Pasadena, CA USA 11/29/2009
Inside Lisbon walking tour. I got on this tour by mistake thinking it was Lisbon walkers, but I absolutely loved it. It was just the right balance of historical facts and contemporary information. The whole thing was very relaxed, just like taking a walk through Lisbon with a very knowledgeable friend, I definitely saw hidden treasures that I would have never discovered on my own, particularly in the Alfama part of the walk, and the whole city past and present came to life in a way that made it unforgettable. I love walking, so whenever I can I go on walking tours, and this one was definitely one of the very best I've been on.
Marylene Pastides in Columbia, MO USA 11/20/2009
Obidos:Albergaria Josefa d'Obidos; Rua Joseph D Joao de Omelas,Obidos, PT 2510 Tel: 262959010 Excellent location near gate and bus stop. beautiful building, rooms and excellent, friendly staff. Dinner there was excellent and moderate, in a lovely room. With breakfast included, we paid $121 USD
George in Pittsburgh, PA USA 10/10/2009
The oceanarium in Lisbon is wonderful. We spent a few hours there. Many places in Portugal have half price fees for seniors(65 and over).
The Quinta de Regaleira mansion in Sintra was beautiful, especially the grounds.
Patricia Snee in Springville, PA USA 10/09/2009
Montsanto is a wonderful stop on the way to or from Spain. The hilltop castle is in our opinion, one of the best ruins in Portugal. And the village below is still delightfully 'un' touristed (mostly).
Hillary Slawson in Seattle, WA USA 08/15/2009
irrata
Carmen in Los Angeles, CA USA 07/15/2009
B & B recommmendation: Quinta do Scoto, Rua Dr. Teixeira Bastos 18, Melecas, Portugal. www.quintadoscoto.com. This place is unbelievable . . .huge rooms, lovely swimming pool, beyond helpful hosts, ample parking, fantastic and very reasonable accomodations for families . . . all in a delightfully rennovated 260 yr-old Quinta . . .a 10-minute drive from Sintra with rail connections to both Sintra and Lisbon (both very difficult places in which to park). Best B & B we have ever stayed in and we have travelled extensively to over 40 countries. Cannot recommend highly enough; well worth your looking into.
Brenda VanAmburgh in Fort Worth, TX USA 05/17/2009
Just returned from eight days in Portugal and we have a tip regarding the day trip to Belem. Take a taxi. Here's why: 1. The #15 tram to Belem no longer departs from Praça do Comércio (this may be temporary due to the construction at Praça do Comércio). We had to walk about a half mile toward Belem to get it at the next stop; 2. Rick Steves mentions to look out for pickpockets on the trams, and they are working that stop heavily. My neck wallet saved me; 3. We heard no stop announcements, so we were unsure when to get off for the Coach Museum.
On the other hand, we got a taxi back to town from The Tower of Belem (the farthest sight in Belem) for 5 euros. Two tram tickets are 2.80 euros. Not worth the small savings. They mostly use modern trams for that route anyway; take the #28 or #12 for the antique tram experience.
Kurt in New York , NY USA 03/21/2009