Portugal Guidebook
Favorite discoveries or tips:
Tavira House hotel/B&B, Tavira, Portugal.
Jon Lowrey in Stuttgart, Germany, AE USA/Germany (military) 04/08/2013
Great laundromat in Porto, the GOwash self serve at Rua Fernandes dos Anjos 190 4400-141 Vila Nova de Gaia Clean, pleasant environment, very friendly and helpful owners, free wifi and reasonable prices. On several bus lines so it's easy to get to. Highly recommended.
Garry Richards in Warkworth , On Canada 04/01/2013
No feedback, I want to get the Portugal tourbook but I understand, there is a new 2013 version coming soon...am I right? I have your 2012 Spain but need Portugal update
Harold Jesse in Sherwood Park, AB Canada 02/10/2013
I discovered Fado [Fah-do ] ao Centro in Coimbra on your feedback prior to going to Portugal. I am a first generation American of Portuguese decent. My father was born in a poor tinty village just 30 miles from Coimbra called Pinheiro de Papizios [peen-yay-dough de pa-peez-ee-osh]. I was familiar with Fado from my father, but never saw a performance live and in person. Making reservations was made easy by email before I left the U.S. Several classmates of mine and my professor from Penn State Harrisburg, PA attended. Wow! What a performance and worth the 10 Euros. The singing was wonderful and the playing of the classical guitar and Portuguese guitar especially was masterful. The performers made them selves available after the performance for pictures and questions. I bought the double CD and DVD to share with family and friends. They served a tasty Port after the show as well. My professor said of the performance, "It was the academic highlight of my life." Enough said.
f a d o a o c e n t r o® f a d o e g u i t a r r a p o r t u g u e s a Centro Cultural e Artístico - Casa de Fados Rua do Quebra Costas nº 7 - Coimbra Reservas: João Farinha (913 236 725) / Luis Barroso (918 651 595) Web: www.fadoaocentro.com Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fado-ao-Centro/146236168743730
Joe Figueiredo in Carlisle, PA USA 11/29/2012
Grande Pensao Alcobia Hotel in Lisbon has a long flight of stairs from the front door to the check in desk. Then there are an additional flight to get to the elevator. Tiny elevator for either 2 guests or 2 -3 suitcases. None of this is mentioned in your description of this hotel
Mary Varese in Madison, WI USA 10/30/2012
We stopped by the Montemor-o-Velho Castle near Coimbra. Lovely little castle with few visitors, free, and set above town.
Theresa in Los Angeles, CA USA 10/28/2012
Drive the coastal route from Lisbon to Salema. It is just as fast and much nicer.
Peter in Vancouver, BC Canada 10/26/2012
Best: Wine quay bar in Porto. Wine and cheese bar overlooking the river.
ann USA 10/21/2012
The highlight was the Douro River cruise thru the locks.
rita choquette in Campbell River. B.C. V9W2P2, Canada 10/21/2012
Just returned from a two week car trip in Portugal, doing the reverse of Rick's recommended journey. Finished in Lisbon on September 30th and ran in theinaugural Rock and RollPortugal Half Marathon which started on the Vasco da Gama bridge. Driving through the Cork Oak trees to Evora was wonderful, just wish that I had been able to find someplace where I could stop and see the production explained to interested travelers.
gaylene donner in newcastle, wa USA 10/07/2012
Coimbra: Joana Costa is a young, charming and very energetic PhD student at Coimbra University studying “Creative Tourism.” Joana is the manager of the newly opened be Coimbra (WWW.becoimbra.pt), a café/performance space featuring regional music and Fado at night. Be Coimbra is part of a consortiam of local music, poetry and food venues. Joana provided my wife and I with a personalized 2 hour walk in Coimbra. She grew up in Coimbra and knows everything about the town, art (she has a masters in art) and the music of Coimbra. She charged 7 euros each for the private 2 hour walk and talked non-stop. Beat that price! Joana Costa +351 929 1167 18.
Donald Wilen in New York, NY USA 09/24/2012
"The House" bed & Breakfast in Lisbon is over the top and should be in every guide book. Francisco, the owner, Rita and Pilar provided attentive and superior service. They remember your name and interests. A family with a crying baby arrived late and woke us up. When we gently complained the next day they moved us into an upgraded room at no increase in price. Francisco joined everyone at breakfast providing advice and verbose political analysis. The place is extremely clean and crisp and has a large rooftop terrace with a blockbuster view of Lisbon and a self -service bar with fair prices. Enjoy a glass of wine and watch the sunset. We paid 75 euros a night for a room with a private bathroom in the hall, AC, elevator, credit cards, wi fi and Francisco’s excellent recommendations. Near Basillica Estella, cab stand, tourist trolleys and a very pleasant park with a large pond. Travessla do Pinheiro 11, Tele +351 218 l042 043. WWW.The House.pt/ 15 euro cab ride from the airport.
Donald Wilen in New York, NY USA 09/24/2012
While in Salema Portugal, my wife and I throughly enjoyed eating at Haveli Indian Restaurant which has been in Salema for several years but only recently relocated to the East end of the boardwalk. Moin (Indian) and his wife Feliz (German) were so welcoming and quickly became good friends. Their Indian food was excellent and they were able to give wonderful suggestions that always pleased. Finish off with their Cashew and Pistachio Icecream (the mango was equally amazing)
Isaac Belcher in Danville, IN USA 08/13/2012
Dear Sirs,
Lisbon Spirit was born on 2011 from the will of two Lisbon lovers.
We are a tourism company licensed by the Tourism of Portugal, whose main activity is the organization of guided walking tours in Lisbon, giving our visitors a different and original experience. We try to transmit the richness of the historical and cultural heritage and go beyond the most popular places, showing the city as we know it, from a local´s point of view.
We designed six different tours divided by areas of the city that we consider essential in a visit to Lisbon. They take place daily, two per day, according to a schedule, in small groups with a maximum of 10 people. We also arrange private tours for groups, any day of the week, depending on availability. All information about our activities can be found on our website at www.lisbon-spirit.pt
We would like to investigate the possibility of having our company in your guidebook.
Best regards,
Joana Bretes Lisbon Spirit
Lisbon Spirit in Lisbon, Portugal 07/28/2012
#8 and 9 restaurants on the Alfalma Stroll through Lisbon are closed, we did find a fabulous restaurant across the street though called Frei Papinhas, Rua de S. Tome, 13 (alfama) Tel 218.866.471. They had affordable seafood dishes (9-15 euros), it was amazing and the best we tasted in Lisbon, the service is fabulous, and they even include free porto at the end.
Sabrina Hofmeister in Milwaukee, WI USA 07/18/2012
I was surprised at now much free wifi is available, including on intercity and tour buses. Starbucks requires a purchase. Evora was worth a day trip for its history and its location away from the developed coast. There is a young man who gives tours on three-wheeled bikes. We did not take the tour, but he is so knowledgeable and enthusiastic, and his English is so good, that I would try it the next trip when I have more time. Sintra: Read Steve's instructions closely in Getting Around Sintra for reaching the Pena Palace via the #434 bus. We got off at the lower entrance and had an unnecessary walk up a hill after buying our tickets. Nothing wrong with walking, but we were doing a lot of it. The paths to the Moorish Castle are under reconstruction, so access is over temporary trails. We skipped it.
JAD in Valley Forge, PA USA 07/08/2012
If you plan on boarding a train in Portugal, especially the fast Alfa Pendular, get on the first car that has an open door and walk through the trai to your seat reservation. Otherwise, you may walk all the way down the train only to find that the doors shut and train leaves before you get to your car!
J Roeber in Carbondale, CO USA 06/07/2012
We found a fantastic brand new apartment complex right in the heart of Baixa in Lisbon -- Lisbon Serviced Apartments. Each apartment comes with a complete kitchen including dishwasher and washing machine, a large living room/sitting area (including TV with 300 channels), a full bedroom with double bed, a foldout sofa bed in the living room, and a spacious bathroom. There were three windows that you could open for fresh air and views of the active street life -- but they sealed tight to keep out the noise. It was a great place to rest after a full day of seeing the sights. It is right near public transportation and about 5 minutes from the Tourist Office. The price was very reasonable (75E/night for three people). They even let us leave our bags until evening on the day we checked out. They have the highest ratings of any Lisbon accommodations on Booking.com, a perfect 10. There is no checkin desk, but there is a phone to the staff who were very helpful.
Rob Thomas in Mercer Island, WA USA 03/14/2012
A wonderful little restaurant in Evora - Vinha e Noz. Wine and Nuts, may have the spelling wrong. Just inside the city wall, terrific regional food for reasonable price. We were the only tourists there. Is small and was full in the off season so best to make a reservation. The waiter speaks English and was very patient explaining everything. Even brought my wife a bandaid and some ice as she tripped on the way there. Our only regret is that we had such a fine dinner that we didn't have room for what appeared to be wonderful desserts. Great wine as well as great food.
Rob in Mercer Island, Wa USA 03/09/2012
In Nazare we discovered that Anna Maria at Quinta das Rosas also has two lovely apartments right on the beach. Since her home was being renovated she took us to her apartments late in the evening and got us set up,for a lovely two days in the area. Free parking is just down the street and the apartments have kitchens and a good view of the beach.
Rob in Mercer Island, Wa USA 03/09/2012
Lisboa: Great views from 6th floor food court of Armazens do Chiado Sintra: Using Lisboa Card, one cashier pointed out it was cheaper to use separate coupons for Pena Palace, grounds, and Moorish Castle than to use the one combination coupon. Colombo Shopping Mall: Since it is right on the subway line, has a Continente (Target) open until midnight, and a fabulous food court (much better than Armazens do Chiado), this is a much better shopping spot Sintra: Get your ginginja here. It is only 1.10 Euros (versus 1.20 Euros in Lisbon), and comes served in a chocolate shot glass. Always order your ginginja sim elas (without berries). I noticed the bars would discard the uneaten berries into a sink and let them accumulate: I feared that they washed and re-used them. Also, the berries just take up space better left for the drink itself.
Vince Bacani in Toronto, ON Canada 10/31/2011
We rented a car and dropped it in Faro downtown near the bus station. The drop charge between countries is huge so we took the bus to Seville and rented another car there. Also great creative graffiti for the photographers. Supplemented Rick's book with Secret Lisbon
MW in Portland , OR USA 10/27/2011
We were in Portugal for a little over 2 weeks in Sept. 2011 and used the R. Steves 2011 Guidebook constantly--very helpful. Be aware that all admissions, transportation fares, etc. have gone up since book published but many do give senior discounts so always ask! Ask the taxi drivers how much the fare is before you get in or have your hotel call a reputable taxi--We got "taken" on the taxi ride from the airport to our hotel--What should have been 17 cost us 30 euros--He asked for 34 and showed us a chart that it cost that much, but we only had 30 euros on us and were too jet-lagged to argue!
We rented a car in Lisbon and drove to Evora, Obidos, Nazare, Alcobaca, Coimbra, Conimbriga and Porto where we dropped it off and took a 1 week Douro River Cruise--good highways, signage on their main highways, but tolls add up! The river cruise on the Douro Prince (48 passengers) highly recommended --beautiful scenery, service, food, day trips, relaxing after being on our own for a week. We are independent travelers normally but this small boat cruise was a nice change of pace!
susan & milton martin in Hopewell, VA USA 10/20/2011
So far the book has been spot on.
Nick NY USA 10/04/2011
There's an excellent new restaurant in Evora. We were staying at Residencial Os Manueis and Eduardo there suggested we try the Dom Joaquin restaurant. We had a wonderful dinner and enjoyed a delightful conversation with a pair of German tourists. It's on the Rua dos Penedos, 6.
Peter D Springberg, MD in Fort Collins, CO USA 09/30/2011
Yes, there's a superb restaurant in Peso da Regua; it's called Douro In (actually the In on their sign is inside the O), and is by far the best place we eaten at during our two weeks in Portugal. The sea bass with pasta at Taberna D'Adelia in Nazare was excellent. Coimbriga's Roman ruins were even better than Rome as one gets close to the mosaics, can interact with staff and is awed by the 35,000 sq. foot house pillars and pools.
Peter D. Springberg, MD in Fort Collins, CO USA 09/16/2011
Yes, there's a superb restaurant in Peso da Regua; it's called Douro In (actually the In on their sign is inside the O), and is by far the best place we eaten at during our two weeks in Portugal. The sea bass with pasta at Taberna D'Adelia in Nazare was excellent. Coimbriga's Roman ruins were even better than Rome as one gets close to the mosaics, can interact with staff and is awed by the 35,000 sq. foot house pillars and pools.
Peter D. Springberg, MD in Fort Collins, CO USA 09/16/2011
Santini's Gelati in Lisbon in the Barrio Alto Rua do Carmo 9 has the best Gelati in town.
We ate at the Indian restaurant in salema twice, it is not listed in the book but it was very good and a nice change from the seafood.
In Sintra the National Palace and Pene Palace are free on Sunday (not sure till what time). Not sure how busy it is on those days because we went on a Monday.
Catherine in Montreal, QC Canada 09/08/2011
My husband and I just returned from Portugal. On the "eating Lane" near Restauradores Metro in Lisbon is a wonderful little place called Sol Dourado. They have daily specials (5,5 euros/small and 7,5 euros/large. One large fed both me and my husband. Friendly people and wonderful food.
J Burkett in Scottsdale , AZ USA 08/22/2011
In Porto, to get to Villa Nova da Gaia, walk across the top of the Pont Luiz and take the teleferico down to the riverfront. Lots of views for 5 euros.
Elizabeth in Pittsburg, CA USA 07/15/2011
Attended a Fado ao Centro concert for 5 Euro and it was delightful! Opened only 6 weeks before by students and former students of Coimbra University. In addition to a professional performance, an interesting slide show on Coimbra fado tradition was shown. The earlier hours, lower cost and not having to purchase drinks was a terrific alternative for us. Located uphill from the Arco de Almedina on the left at Rua Quebra Castas, no. 7.
Nancy Lloyd in Allentown, PA USA 06/12/2011
Hello.
There's a new place in the city of Coimbra (PORTUGAL) named "Fado ao Centro" where everyone can go to, and listen to Fado from Coimbra. Also, they're opened everyday and are a cultural association, so you can speak to the workers there and know more about the history of Fado from Coimbra and also the University Traditions. I recommend this addition, since it's a great project in the city and a really nice cultural thing to know. Last time I checked rick steeves there wasn't any comment about this place but it seems it's been open since April so it's news in the city not only for the portuguese community but to every tourist that comes to this city.
Sara in Coimbra, Portugal 06/10/2011
We used Cristina Quental (919-922-480) as a all day guide in Lisbon, and she was WONDERFUL! We must have walked 6 miles and learned more than we could absorbe. She is pleasant and very well organized,we would highly recommend her to anyone seeking a guide in and around Lisbon.
Norbert Fratt in Oro Valley, AZ USA 06/04/2011
1-knowing the olives, etc are not free 2-knowing that the ATM key pads have only numbers 3-Knowing not to bother with travelers checks, etc 4-knowing about double and single portions 5-knowing about the canal/river boat trips
Pat in Marlborough, MA USA 05/17/2011
We took your tip to take the cheap river ferry across the river from Lisbon to Cacilhas. Even on a rainy morning it was good. But we found an interesting thing to visit that you didn't include: the last of the sailing ships of the Portuguese Navy, which is right near the ferry dock and is open for visitors at no charge. It is called the Fernando II e Gloria, an interesting visit especially for those into naval history and ships. They have a walking tour book in English to give to visitors. http://www.panoramio.com/photo/597936 also info on Wikipedia
A. Ergas in Farmington Hills, MI USA 05/09/2011
Sintra is fantastic, especially the Pena Palace and Moorish Castle. The self-guided walks in Lisbon also are excellent. The Monastery of Jeronimo in Belem is magical, I'm so glad I got to see that.
Ruth Baer in Lexington, KY USA 05/07/2011
Highly recommend Hotel Dom Pedro.
Joel Marcus in Media, PA USA 05/01/2011
Could you give recommendations on priorities for a 1 week trip?
Pam in Chevy Chase, MD USA 04/02/2011
Could you give recommendations on priorities for a 1 week trip?
Pam in Chevy Chase, MD USA 04/02/2011
Please explain why on page 120, April 2010 edition, you said that from Praia da Rocha and east to Faro is the worst part of the Algarve. I have a week booked this summer in Albufeira - just would like to know. Thanks.
Margaret Ramey in Pasadena, CA USA 02/20/2011