England 2010

Favorite discoveries or tips:

We discovered that you can use a free ATM at the post office in London at Canary Wharf. We assume other post offices have similar ATMs.

Gerald Kilbert in Elk Grove, CA USA 11/20/2009

RYE, ENGLAND! It is the city from 1066 and unbelievably preserved. Lots to do and great shopping. Durrant House B&B is wonderful. We think this should be added. Similar to Cotswolds, but unique and very near Dover's White Cliffs.

Lori Ecklebe in Omaha, NE USA 10/25/2009

Mad Maxx tours out of Bath was more than excellent. A comfortable bus was just big enough to maneuver and not feel like a herd of people on a tour. The guide took us to a few of his favorite places not in the tour that were charming and well worth the extra few minutes getting back. The guide was personable. Well worth the money and then some!!

Karen Curtis in Tulsa, Ok USA 10/23/2009

Dounia - Lebanese Food at Whiteleys Shopping Centre Ground Floor, W2 4YN - Located in Bayswater

Perna in San Diego, CA USA 10/14/2009

I enjoyed a daytrip to Salisbury from Bath. The train trip is one hour, cost 14 GBP, and the walk to the cathedral and museum was pleasant--about 20 min. Trains run about hourly from Bath. On the return trip to Bath I got a clear view of the huge chalk horse on a nearby hill. I was told that the horse had been cleaned recently, so it was bright white.

Swan in Napa , CA USA 10/03/2009

A tip: there are major engineering works underway on the Underground (Tube), especially on weekends. Be aware in advance; notices are posted and employees are available to give advice. Alternate transit is provided by bus service. Some of the regular bus lines will take you where you want to go; some extra buses are provided to get around the construction areas. Some of the lines are disrupted on weekdays, also. The explanation for all this activity is that London is preparing for the Olympics. There are also construction projects on some of the rail lines, so it is good to check in advance on weekends.

Swan in Napa, CA USA 10/03/2009

Buying the British Heritage Pass and a Travelcard for the Tube were two of the best decisions your book helped us make. Very convenient and practical, we definitely got our money's worth.

Whitney in Atlanta, GA USA 09/05/2009

The Herschel Museum of Astronomy in Bath, England is the actual house where William Herschel discovered the planet Uranus. It was fascinating, and well worth seeing if you are in Bath. The address is New King St. Phone number 01225-446865.

Pat in San Diego, CA USA 08/20/2009

Family Accommodation Tip in the Cotswolds: There is a great under-the-eves, relatively new, family room at The Redesdale Arms in Moreton-in-Marsh. Because it's way at the back of the hotel (a cool, old coaching inn), it's very quiet. This suite of rooms was perfect for our family, traveling with two teens. Our weekly stay included full breakfasts in a nice dining room. We had the master bedroom and the teens had the cots in the living/bed room. We had our own bathroom, tea-making kitchen with small fridge, and tiny porch/reading room. Breakfasts were terrific and we had internet connection from the lobby (just ask for a password). Service was that unique blend of warm and professional. Great location for seeing the Cotswolds, Stratford, Warwick Castle, Blenheim Palace, Oxford, and the Corinium Museum. Village has convenient laundry and post office (next to each other), and a neat fish 'n' chips joint, too. Only drawback as, if you're tall, you'll have to stand under the skylight part of the shower (not a big deal). www.redesdalearms.com (note the spelling)

Antje in Portland, OR USA 08/20/2009

Paula - nice to see somebody bringing up Eastbourne. It is the butt of a lot of jokes - on Fawlty Towers they even made a crack about the only worse hotel than FT being in Eastbourne ;) But, as you say, it's pleasant enough. I had a nice daytrip over to there and enjoyed a hike up to Beachy Head (initial hill climb out of Eastbourne was a bit steep, but then its easy going). I also enjoyed the Belgian Cafe (that's its name - functional, LOL) back on the seafront afterwards. Sipping Rochefort 10 in the seaside sun = bloody fantastic ;) Cheers, Brian M Portsmouth, UK / NS, Canada

Brian M in Portsmouth, UK 08/03/2009

Stayed in Eastbourne for the first time this trip. We had intended to use the city as a base of operations for travel to Rye, Battle, Hastings and Brighton and we did do that. But having heard all the jokes about Eastbourne being for pensioners staggering along on Zimmer frames, we were suprised and delighted to learn that there were many,many activities available in Eastbourne and that the front is as attractive as Brighton but with fewer people. We stayed at Ivydene Hotel at 5-6 Hamden Terrace, Latimer Road, Eastbourne BN22 7BL, U.K. 44-01323 720 547, run by Michael,Colin and Roselind Ball. Very friendly, helpful and glad to help you get acquainted with the city. They got tickets to local theatre productions for us and NO service fee for doing so.

Paula Harris in Milwaukie, OR USA 08/01/2009

1) Jamuna Indian Cuisine in Bath - Great three-course lunch for 6.95 GBP/pp, excellent service. Address: 9-10 High Street, Bath BA2 2PQ Phone: 01225-464631/466-626.

2) Rasa Sayang in London's Chinatown. Outstanding Malaysian/Singaporean cuisine at VERY good prices: our dinner entrees were each only 6.6 GBP/pp, and a bottle of the very good house Sauvignon Blanc only 11.50 GBP. Family-run, small restaurant with friendly, professional and efficient service. Address: 5 Macclesfield Street London W1 Phone: 020/7734-1382.

3) The Harp (pub) in London's Covent Garden, not far from the National Portrait Gallery. This has to be one of the best pubs in the world: small, Old World-type place that serves primarily top-quality, harder-to-find ales and bitters. Very friendly, knowledgeable staff. Frequented by locals and those who work in the area. No touristy gimmicks or bland lagers here, and since they don't serve food, you know that their focus is on the beer! Address: 47 Chandos Place, Charing Cross, London WC2 4HS Phone: 020/7836-0291

4) The Two Brewers (pub), on Monmouth Street near the Seven Arms, on the north side of Covent Garden. Much like the place above, though a bit larger, and with menu service. A great place to pick up your Abbott Ale, which has to be one of the world's best. Address: 40 Monmouth St, London WC2H 9EP Phone: 020/7836-7395?

5) The Mediterranean Cafe (London - Soho). Another small, accommodating, family-run enterprise with friendly, helpful service. Big advantage: unlike most other restaurants, they start breakfast service earlier (around 8:00 a.m. or so), so if you've got lots to do and see in and around Soho, this is a great way to start your day. (Stop here before doing a Beatles tour.) Only 4 GBP/pp for breakfast, which includes coffee or tea. Mostly local/neighborhood clientele. Address: 18 Berwick Street, London W1V 3RG Phone: 020/7437-0560

6) The Red Lion Inn in Chipping Campden. This inn/restaurant is apparently under new management, and serves very respectable, upscale pub fare, as well as offerings of cheese boards featuring mostly local Cotswold/Gloucestershire cheeses. Nice wine selection, too: on our first visit, we were offered a bottle of--I know you won't believe this, but it's actually true--very good local white wine, for the price of what would normally have been two glasses. Friendly, professional service that really makes you feel at home, all in a cozy, only-in-the-Cotswolds sort of building. Address: High Street, Chipping Campden Phone: 01386/840-760

7) Sarum Heights B & B - Salisbury. We tried to book Rick's recommended B & Bs, but they were booked, due to a choral convention in town during that time. We booked Sarum Heights through the local TI; though not located directly in the center of town, it's great for us drivers, being located right on Castle Road, with fantastic views of Old Sarum. Rooms are clean and cozy, and feature really decent showers. Even in high season, the room was quite reasonable (66 GBP/night), and this B & B features the ultimate ETBD experience: breakfast at a communal table in the family kitchen, where you share breakfast with the other guests. Definitely worth a mention, along with the (very) helpful, patient staff at the TI in Salisbury. Address: 289 Castle Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire SP1 3SB Phone: 1722/421-596 Mobile: 7931/582-357 Proprietors: Sue and Charles

Jim in Rockville, MD USA 07/30/2009

Finni and Alex from Lombard House also have a B&B in Greece that isn't in Steves' guide book. If it is at all like their one in Portsmouth it would be great to include in your Greece guidebook.

Kris in Riverside, CA USA 07/29/2009

My sister and I found DeMuths Restaurant in Bath, England ( www.demuths.co.uk) to be an excellent vegetarian restaurant, with a very good ambience.

Another very good place was Luciano's Pizzeria/Restaurant on High Street in Wells, England.

We would recommend both these for addition to your guide book which we found very useful on our trip.

Bharath in Potsdam, NY USA 07/21/2009

This was my husband's and my first trip to Europe. I used your book to plan our trip. I especially took to heart your words to "travel as a temporary local." We saw many wonderful sights but my favorite discovery was the friendliness of the British. Several times while my husband and I were looking at a map, Londoners would stop and ask us if we needed help finding something. We had a wonderful time.

Philomena Karol in Raleigh, NC USA 07/14/2009

Would recommend the Burleigh Mead Hotel (B&B) in Keswick, Lake District. Contack is Gil Newton and his wife at info@burleighmead.co.uk. Located in the Heads area. We had a five day stay there, remodeled rooms, all close to perfection. You should consider including it in your recommendations.

David Watson in Del Mar, CA USA 07/14/2009

The Hereford Cathedral along with the Chained Library and Mappa Mundi was a great site that didn't make your England guide. The medieval chained library and world map were really interesting and a quick 1-2 hour tour. The 13th century map of the world shows how differently the English saw their place in the world, they put themselves on the edge of the map with Jerusalem in the center. The map is about the size of a cow hide and illustrated with polar bears, elephants, grifons and unicorns. It was made to be displayed by the alter, and provided the church approved view of the world. The chained library dates from the seventeenth century and is full of books that date as far back as the 8th century. The books were so valuable that they had to be chained to the tables to make sure they were not stolen by the theologians. The cathederal had buried crusaders and impressive gothic construction. Hereford Cathedral was a great site for map and book buffs.

Mike Flaherty in St Louis, MO USA 06/13/2009

We recently stayed at a wonderful B&B in Stow-On-The-Wold, Cotswolds, England. It's called "The Limes" and is on the edge of town a couple of minutes walk from the main street. The owners Helen and Graham were wonderful and very accomodating. Rooms were spacious and nicely kept with a hearty English breakfast included. Apparently, this B&B was included in past Guidebooks and I hope that it will be revisited in the future. We highly recommend this B&B for travelers going to the Cotswolds. "The Limes" Evesham Road Stow-On-The-Wold Glouceshire Gl541EJ Tel: 01451 830034 Fax: 01451 830034 thelimes@zoom.co.uk

Joseph Cuccio in Racine, WI USA 06/02/2009

The Vidella Hotel, Blackpool. Great location 2 blocks from the promanade, great dining room with a four-star chef, cozy bar and great service with affordable prices.

Paul DiBlasi in Jacksonville Beach, Fl USA 05/27/2009

Best accomodation - England, March of 2009 (Honeymoon)

First - Thanks to Rick and staff on their useful England guidebook (which traveled with us) and interesting DVD sets!

Abbeyfields GuestHouse, 19 Bootham Terrace, York YO30 7DH, England

Next - We visited Abbeyfields Guest House in York, England, on our 21-day honeymoon and rate it as our best accommodation throughout England and Scotland! We HIGHLY URGE a stay here. This beautiful home is absolutely central to York, magnificent, and the hosts Al and Les are VERY hospitable! We found it quiet, charming, baths ensuite, in a nice neighborhood and quite an easy walk adjacent to York's ancient walled city. York and its history are fascinating. Abbeyfields attracts a nice clientele (at very reasonable rates) and everything there is clean and of "top quality." The hosts Al and Les somehow, someway, make plenty of time for each guest with plenty of maps, tips and answers. We were there in March 2009 and are still raving about this portion of our stay in England and Scotland. Abbeyfields and its hosts are ABSOLUTELY CHARMING. Their knowledge of York and good insight on what to do, where and why were almost unbelievable. Their excellent breakfasts topped it all off. Also, I felt completely comfortable leaving camera equipment and passports behind in our room - not something I would say for the entire trip! There are sights and top museums in York which are really well-known. Al & Les added a few items to our jammed itinerary which we will simply not forget. We only regret that we did not stay longer.

Thanks to Rick Steves, his books and videos, and to Al & Les for such a great stay. Thank you!! JON+LINDA, Northern California

Jon & Linda in N California, CA USA 05/05/2009

Please tell everyone to allow plenty of time in Portsmouth. We took the off-peak train down from London, ate lunch, and then only had four hours before the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard closed. There is so much to see and do! If you're short of time focus on the Mary Rose. The Victory is similar to the USS Constitution in Boston so if you've been to Boston it can be skipped. We happened to be there during the February "half-term" and had a marvelous conversation with a diver from the Mary Rose who was volunteering his time in the museum.

Martha in Rockville, MD USA 03/02/2009

The public footpaths in the Cotswolds are awesome! You can get maps of them at the TI.

The falconry center (Moreton-in-Marsh) was a great experience. You can walk to it using the public footpaths.

Dave W. in Seattle, WA USA 01/20/2009

We stayed at this really charming B&B in stratford upon avon - Moonraker House. The hosts were really warm and friendly people. They helped us plan our three days to the make the trip really enjoyable. The room had traditional english decorations and were very clean. The location is very central for the main shakespeare attractions with the railway station only 100 metres away. The breakfast was special and could have kept going till dinner. Was an excellent base to explore stratford upon avon and the cotswolds.

Robby in New York, USA 01/12/2009

We had the pleasure of spending two days with Tim Harrison-Cotswold Tours. He is based in Snowshill. Tim has a vast knowledge of the area where he grew up as well as English and world history and current events. This was a highlight of our trip and we hope to see him again.

Judy Hopwood in Alpine, CA USA 11/13/2008

I've used the London Plus Pass my last two trips to England and found it saved money and ticket-buying time. The pass is good for London-Bath this year which makes it a really good deal.

Swan in Napa, CA USA 10/17/2008

You recommended Trader's Gate as a quicker way to get Tower of London tickets. They were not only that, but owner Ron Lomez was immensely helpful, kind to our kids and generally an excellent shopkeeper. We made a point of going back after the tower, letting him know we heard of him thru you, and buying a couple of souvenirs there. His POC data is: tradersgate1@btconnect.com.

We also found a restaurant in Arundel, West Sussex, by the Duke of Norfolk's "place": Tudor Rose Restaurant, 49 High Street, Arundel. Chef/Proprietor is N. Kalli. Food was good, very close to the castle, and a couple of interesting shops nearby. We spoke with Jackie Neil at the register - I think she may be M. Kalli's wife. Got there just as they closed but they were gracious about feeding a hungry, grumpy family even though it meant staying open late. Good English food and I think they had some Indian as well. Recommended.

DRIVING: It's not driving on the wrong side that gets you. SUbconsciously, we align on the center line. Amazingly enough, when we shift to the other side, I found I was still trying to align on the center - pulling me too far over on narrow English roads. When I began to adapt, I did the opposite - aligning on the left road edge and pulling too far that way. Being aware of this problem prevents it.

SMALL MUSEUMS: My son noticed a sign for the Museum of Music Boxes in a tiny English town. Cheap and lots of fun - hundreds of period music boxes collected by the curator. If it's worth knowing, email and I'll dig up all the data.

Likewise, the Museum of Cartoons, just a block from the British Museum, but hardly noticed, is a tremendous political history of England through its political cartoons. Cheap, and great fun for kids who like history.

LTC Larry Frost in Minneapolis, MN USA 10/14/2008

My husband and I just got back from two weeks in northern England. Rick Steves England guidebook was very helpful, but in addition, we found a small personal tour company, Englandsmiles (www.englandsmiles.co.uk), that we feel should definitely be added to his recommendations. Of the three companies listed in the 2008 guidebook for the Lakes region, Touchstone told me they only do walking tours now, and Mountain Goat said they no longer start tours in Keswick.

We worked with the proprietors of Englandsmiles, Peter and Cindy, via e-mail while we were planning our trip and they designed three wonderful day tours to cover all our wishes. We planned on staying in York and Keswick and knew what we could do on foot from Rick’s guidebook, but we wanted to experience the Moors, the coast, and the dales, but without having to drive ourselves.

Peter and Cindy designed a circular tour from York that covered the Moors and the coast and included some places for our individual interests (aviation and lighthouses). They designed a second tour which was a transfer from our B&B in York to our B&B in Keswick that included Fountains Abbey (spectacular and we were the only ones there for a while) and a wonderful drive through the Dales. A third tour was of the western lakes and the Roman fort at Hardknott, including an awe inspiring drive through Wrynose pass.

They picked us up at both of our B&Bs right on time, imparted lots of historical information along the way and selected some wonderful pubs for breaks. On our western lakes tour, an English couple we know joined us and they enjoyed the tour also. In fact, we enjoyed the experience so much that my husband invited Peter and Cindy to join us and our friends for dinner. We learned considerable English history, had a lot of fun, saw the beautiful English countryside, and feel we made new friends. That is what travel should be!

Verna Reamy in Columbia, MD USA 09/26/2008

If you are in London for a few days, buy the Oyster Card for bus and tube. It gets a bit pricey buying daily passes.

Johan Grundy in Eastern Passage, NS Canada 07/24/2008

Add the following concerning the village of Broadway in the Cotwolds. When travelling NW on highway A44 toward Broadway, just before descending down Fish Hill into Broadway, turn left on the road signed for Broadway Tower County Park (travel about half a mile to the park after making the turn). Parking is free at the park. Visit intriguing Broadway Tower if you want (great view on top of the tower):

http://www.broadwaytower.co.uk/

then, take the Cotswolds Way walking path down to the village of Broadway (a little over a mile long, through fields lined with limestone fences and some sheep). We did this walk on Tuesday, July 1, 2008 and had a delightful time ... the walk is just right ... not too long (took about half an hour to return uphill). In summary, this variation for enjoying the village of Broadway provides free parking and a nice walk in the Cotswolds.

I took some photos along this portion of the Cotswolds Way walking path and I would send them to you (yours free to use ... no strings attached), if you want them.

Mark Feltis in Pullman, WA USA 07/11/2008

Dartmoor was our favorite stop during our two week trek. Your recommendation, near Chagford, of St. John’s West delightful. John and Maureen are delightful people, already old friends. And the moors-- everyone should have a quiet, wind-blown walk among the sheep, ponies and ancient neolithic sites. We thank you so much for this recommendation! Next time we’ll stay a week right there.

Your recommendation to "hire" a car was the best. Despite the left side of the road, we had no problems and gained both in economy and convenience. Coupled with this was your advice to reverse the order of the trip and end in London. Very good. By the time we got to London, we could do "it all." My husband was so adept at driving that he got us to our London hotel (The Gower House-- lovely, clean and very reasonable) to drop off kids and luggage before heading to Gatwick to drop it off. Thanks for nudging us out on our own. Next, to Ireland. We can do it now!

Salisbury was a delight once we got into town. Maybe it was just that day, but traffic was awful. Loved the cathedral; had one of the best cathedral tours of the whole trip.

Patti Brugman in Pasadena, CA USA 06/29/2008

Why don't you cover Canterbury? It's a great town with a city wall fairly intact as well as a beautiful, historic cathedral. While it's not really near anything, if one comes across by ferry or the Channel Tunnel, it's right there. In 1990 we took European delivery of a new car and took a ferry to Dover. The drive to Canterbury was just enough distance for my husband to get used to driving on the left without feeling overwhelmed his first day.

[Editor's Note: Did you miss our chapter on Canterbury? It begins on page 164 of Rick Steves' England 2008.]

Lyn Morris in Houston, TX USA 06/09/2008

The Cotswaolds - we could have spent a week there, so if anyone is looking for breathtaking quaintness, the book could provide more detail. Rick recommends a single night there, but you can build a whole vacation around this lovely area.

Tip- Avoid Blenheim Palace.

Tom Iarossi in San Diego, CA USA 06/04/2008

Mill Hay House in Broadway was an absolutely excellent B&B.Beautiful house and grounds, gracious hostess and excellent food served by a wonderful staff.

David Krein in Schaumburg, IL USA 05/25/2008

I just wanted to offer a rebuttal to the person who did not like the Parkside Guesthouse in Bath. I had the total opposite experience. I found the owners very friendly and helpful and we are going back there again this August.

Catherine McNabb in Port Townsend, WA USA 05/22/2008

(Background: I am an Atlantic Canadian living and working in Portsmouth UK for the past year, and for a few years to come. I use Rick's excellent Guidebooks for planning short breaks around the UK and its neighbours).

I've used Rick's GB 2007 a ton over the past year, and this year have invested in England 2008 for more detail on the South coast. I was proud of the opening comments of the Portsmouth chapter, regarding the city's regeneration. However I do feel that a couple of more pages about Portsmouth could really be valuable for visitors.

1) Millenium Walk - running between Clarence Pier and Gunwharf Quays, this path is clearly marked on the pavement with a long unbroken line. It can be very evocative with supporting info (a 1-pager in your guide would be perfect). I've taken friends on this walk in the early morning before the Dockyard opens. It provides a great look at the remnants of what was the most fortified city in Europe. The oldest bit - the Round Tower - is open, and can be climbed for a good panoramic view of the Old town. The Square Tower has been used to store everything from ammo to meat. Nelson left via the Sally Port, or door through the old town walls, never to return again. There's the Saluting Platform for royal review of the Navy, an old salt water bath house, painter W M Wyllie's home, and the Royal Garrison Church. I suspect from your guidebook's treatment of similar monuments that this Church would be of interest to Rick and readers. It has remained roofless since WWII, and was also the site of the murder of the Bishop of Chichester which saw the city excommunicated for 50 years!

With some short notes in hand, this stretch of seafront really becomes vibrant with historical color.

2) "Palmerston's Follies" - Lord Palmerston, Secretary of War for 20 years, was not so popular with a lot of British folk - least of all Queen Victoria. He spent gigantic amounts of money fortifying Portsmouth in novel ways against a French invasion that never came. On the Millenium Walk above, you can spot the three uniques sea forts in the Solent (Spitbank Fort can be visited, though I have yet to do so myself). On Portsdown Hill, rising up behind the city, there are five large forts controversially designed to protect against invasion from *inland*! Fort Nelson can be visited, but again I have yet to do so myself. To me, seeing the forts looming on the horizon is evocative enough. Collectively these odd fortifications are known as Palerston's Follies, and are worth knowing about and admiring from a distance.

3) Portsdown Hill viewpoint - Spinnaker Tower notwithstanding, the greatest view across Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight is from the free green on Portsdown Hill Road. Taking in the whole city at once - the most densely populated in Europe, save one or two boroughs of London - can be a contemplative place for a picnic on a clear day. It certainly makes me appreciate propery sizes back home, but also the uniqueness of my home-from-home. There are three roads by which to enter and leave the city; the middle one can get you to this viewpoint before you head on to your next stop.

4) Southsea - this is my home neighbourhood and although the grassy Common and the seafront are its most striking features, and indeed the D-Day Museum is its best sight, there is far more still to enjoy in this artsy and diverse area! Back Door Travellers - the factory outlets at Gunwharf Quays will thrive without you (however, watch out for festivals that they host there. I've been to a great Steel Pan Festival as well as Chinese New Year celebration there). Consider exploring the bohemian, student-y and ethnically diverse Albert Road. The quirky independent shops there are a refreshing break from cloned High Sreets, and they are joining forces to rejuvenate interest in the area, host special events, etc. You can "eat your way around the world" on Albert Road with greater variety and more competitive prices than you can at Gunwharf. Osborne Road is also provides great choice for eating.

The pubs and clubs on these main thoroughfares can be quite raucous and lively, and there are also many hidden gems in the sidestreets. I don't want to advertise my own favorite pubs, but for anybody staying at Rick's listed Southsea Backpackers' Lodge, do not miss its neighbour - the Florence Arms - with a staggering 40 varieties of cider (about 12 cask), including some perries, and a landlord guaranteed to give you a warm welcome. (Following the smoking ban, they found an angle - or rather a return to old roots - and ran with it).

5) Alternative Naval Museums - Portsmouth's Historic Dockyard is a good general introduction to Naval history, and certainly the stories of Nelson and HMS Victory are fantastic. But for naval buffs craving weightier material (most likely on a return visit to the region) I recommend the Royal Submarine Museum (a short jaunt across the harbour, in Gosport) and the Royal Marines Museum (southeast Portsmouth - "Eastney" area). Both offer extensive collections and displays, without a steep cover charge a la the Dockyard. The Marines museum also happens to be housed in a fine old Victorian officer's mess with beautiful grounds and function rooms.

The related Explosion! Museum of Naval Firepower, in Gosport, does what it says on the tin. It has a more niche appeal than the others.

6) Isle of Wight hikes - I grew up on a small island so the IOW is very resonant with me. It is expensive to make the crossing, and the Island is teeming with dubious tourist traps - true; but the real attraction is free. On the Coastal Walk you can traverse a microcosm of south mainland coastlines in just a few miles. The Needles with their lighthouse are a valid alternative to Beachy Head, and I believe the Island's most striking view is north from the headland over the Needles. The white cliffs suddenly turn into the many-colored sand cliffs at Alum Bay. The contrast is amazing, and the whole of the south coast is full of similar surprises. Birdwatchers can head for the Undercliff region.

While open-top tour busses make the circuit of the coast, they often don't get very near the cliffs.

While busses are still worthwhile, the best experience is to get out on foot, down to the beaches, and admire the striking cliffs and "chines".

=== I've written more than enough for now so I'll hush up! I hope that some of my tips may benefit others. To Rick and team: many thanks and keep up the great work.

As a final item of advice, I would just like to say that York is wonderful for ale lovers. There are about 60 pubs serving real ale in the square mile enclosing the city center. The local brew is very nice, to boot. Download the free map/listing, with brief descriptions, from the York CAMRA website (found under Mini Guides). Happy Travels!

Brian McIntyre in Portsmouth, United Kingdom 04/16/2008

A nice place to stay while visiting Hadrian's Wall is the Courtfield Guest House in Carlisle. We stayed at Exeter at the Drake Farm to visit Tintagel Castle. We also stayed at the Peverell House in Dover and Southsea Lodge in Portsmouth. All these places are clean, affordable, very nice looking and have friendly owners.

Sherry in Spokane, WA USA 03/08/2008

Britrail Pass - 1st Class a good choice! We traveled to England in January 2008 and opted for the consecutive 4-day Britrail Pass for the family. We purchased the 1st Class pass because we were traveling over the New Year holiday period and felt the trains could be packed. It was a good choice. As a family of four, we would not have found four seats together on some of our runs. First Class always had seats together, and the tea and biscuit privelegs were very nice. Some of the trains were especially nice, with new car like leather smell in First Class. If you travel during a holiday period, I'd recommend the upgrade to 1st Class. We travelled extensively each day, from London each morning to Dover, Cantebury, Salisbury, Bath, Cardiff (Wales), and York. The trains are efficient and clean, and for the extra $100, the 1st Class upgrade was a great deal.

Randy in Fountain Valley, CA USA 01/13/2008

The Oyster Card for train travel in London and to and from Heathrow was brilliant. Capped rate and so simple. You can apply for a refund for any credit left on the card when you leave. If you have more than 5 pounds left they will not pay out in cash but will send a cheque after you have filled out a form at the station - we did this at Heathrow and luckily had plenty of time before our train as it took a while and the queues were long. With hindsight we'd have done it at a smaller station. 10 weeks later we're still waiting for our refund, but I have faith!

June Williams in Auckland, New Zealand 11/08/2007

Edinburgh, Scotland - accommodations. We found beautiful apartments for rent through john@apartmentsinedinburgh.com. They were less expensive than staying in a hotel. John and his staff were extremely helpful and friendly. The apartments were close to the Royal Mile and a great deal! They were all clean, had washer/dryers, and gorgeous English/Victorian styling. Enjoy!!!

Ann Slemmer in Show Low, Az USA 11/06/2007

The best accommodations we found in all of England were at the St. Raphael Guest House on Queen Annes Road in York. Located in a quiet but very convenient location less than a 10-minute walk from Yorkminster and the downtown area, this b&b is very charming, beautifully decorated, and has the most comfortable bed that we slept in during our whole trip! What makes the St. Raphael so special is the amazing hospitality of its innkeepers, Les & Al, who make excellent breakfasts (including fresh homemade bread) each morning and are always available to make recommendations for dinner, sightseeing, and anything you need. My husband and I highly recommend that you add this b&b to your suggested lodging!

A few tips: the pillows at the Edgar Hotel in Bath were awful, but our stay there was great otherwise. American travelers used to fluffy pillows might want to bring their own or buy one from the shops in town if they want to avoid neck problems!

The Lyzzick Hall Guest House in Keswick has great accommodations and an excellent restaurant with a multi-course dinner -- it was the best meal we had while we were in England.

The Imperial War Museum in London has one of the best exhibitions about the Holocaust we have seen.

Amy Kozusko in Pittsburgh, PA USA 10/29/2007

I traveled with a Britrail London Plus Pass in Southern England. It saved my time and money and kept me moving around to places I hadn't seen before. Also, the Oyster Card worked even better than I anticipated. I was able to use my one-week pass on buses in the Heathrow area. Another discovery was the host of hotels/motels/B&Bs near Heathrow. I stayed at the Heathrow Lodge on Old Bath Road just a short distance from LHR, took bus/train to Windsor for a daytrip from there, then took a free shuttle from the Lodge at 6 am the morning of my flight home. And it was only 36 GBP per night for a single. Next time, I will consider staying there my first night in the country so I can recover from jetlag for a night or so before moving on. Also, I was given senior discounts (concessions) wherever I went. So I saved a couple of pounds at each site. Delicious sandwiches and fresh fruit were widely available, so I used these for many meals. When traveling thru the tube stations with luggage, there are special exits for your luggage. Look for them. I got stuck twice while passing through the gates; they close with great pressure in some of the stations.

Swan in Napa, CA USA 10/29/2007

In Stratford-Upon-Avon if you take the 2pm tour of Stratford by the Swan fountain by the theatres you can get tons of discount coupons from things such as food, drink, entrance to the Shakespeare properties and even the open top bus tour. The tour is 5 pounds and the discounts alone saved me over 10. The guide on Fridays (Felcity) used to do the Cotwolds tour and still does give private tours of them as well as to Warwick for larger groups. She gave tons of helpful information out about the entire area and what was the best way to do things. Including that an actual guide to Warwick castle was worthless and well as the guide book but do take the audio tour. She was so right!!

Also I stayed at the Aldephi Guesthouse (39 Grove Rd)which was less than a 3 minute walk to practically anywhere in town gives a discount if you stay more than a weekend. They shaved off 7 pounds a night for 6 nights for me and the breakfast was super!! (the best I had and it filled me up till well after lunch!)

In Stratford there is a pub that only the local know about that is sort of inside the car park near the police station. A couple of locals took me there...its hidden, inexpensive and clean! You can only see the entrance from within in car park...I would have never had known about it otherwise.

Leslie Hickman in Tulsa, OK USA 10/19/2007

The little fishing village of Looe along the coats east of Penzance and west of Plymouth. Good food good scenery lots of accomadations adn a favorite of locals

Bill Ith in Olympia, WA USA 10/03/2007

Cornwall. I spent three days based in Penzance and using public transportation. I loved St. Michael's Mount. I went over by boat and waited to walk back across the causeway. Climbing the pilgrim's way up to the castle and church is challenging but I imagined the thousands walking the same stones over hundreds of years. I also went out to Lands End but avoided all the theme parks. I enjoyed the walk from the concessions to the farm and back while I waited for the bus. I also went to Trengwainton Gardens - a beautiful couple of hours walking through trails and walled gardens. I took a Harry Safari four hour tour which was great and visited St. Ives. There was so much that I did not get to see and I want to go back to Cornwall again!!!

Gail Canada 09/19/2007

I discovered a wonderful B&B in Salisbury. It is the only B&B I stayed in, in the U.K., that I didn't find in Rick's book but it belongs in his book. It is just a great place. Much cheaper then those listed in his Salisbury section and just a few minutes' walk into the heart of town. It is called Farthings B&B and its web address is Farthingsbandb.co.uk. The phone number is 01722330749. It is perfectly run by Gill who is super friendly and helpful. The breakfast is light but delicous. My single room rate was 45 pounds. She has a book lending table and the rooms are spacious, clean and very homey. She has a gorgeous garden in the back that the rooms look out onto. Rick should check out this little jewel for future books. It is just a perfect Rick's place!

Jo in Nokomis, FL USA 08/25/2007

Steam Rally and Vintage Vehicle Culture. www.steam-up.co.uk. Went to Pickering, England Steam Traction Rally. Real nitty gritty rural steam engine, county fair, farm culture. Big event in Northern Yorkshire. Downside, pollution (thick smoke) from coal burning steam engines. First hand experience of the pollution of the Industrial Revolution. While only could stand three hours, a working class cultural event off the beaten track.

K. Heslop in Incline Village, NV USA 08/07/2007

We just returned last week from England and N. Wales and your guidebook was wonderful. We want to share a few comments and suggestions:

1. The Ceremony of the Keys at the Tower of London was great! The guards were within touching distance and it was very interesting to see, esp. for our teenaged son who is in his high school's marching band.

2. In Buttermere (Lake District) follow signs for Buttermere Ayrshire's homemade ice cream. It is sold in a cute little shop on a family farm (just opposite the little church); the first farm when traveling from Keswick. The ice cream was FANTASTIC and VERY REASONABLY priced. And you can wander over to see the church and see the sheep grazing in the grassy church yard.

3. Looking for cheap eats, we were so happy to discover that Tesco, the supermarket chain, offers self-serve breakfasts in their store cafeterias. They open at 8 a.m. and offer eggs, sausage, hash browns, baked beans, toast, cereals, pastries, fresh fruit, tomatoes,hot and cold beverages. Our family of four, including two teens, ate a substantial, nice breakfast for a little over £12 (about $24), which is quite reasonable for the UK. Nothing fancy, but you get to eat with the locals, and it was good and filling.

Ivette Maoz in Chandler, AZ USA 07/25/2007

If you're coming from the western part of England before flying out of Heathrow, consider a bus-train combination. I bought a single ticket at Salisbury for about £28, which put me on a train to Woking and then on the bus that runs from Woking Station to Heathrow Bus Station every 1/2 hour. If my B&B landlady hadn't suggested this, I would have taken the train into London's Waterloo Station and then endured the Tube at rush hour. The train-bus combination was much more relaxing. Sure, there was traffic, but since I was only going to an airport hotel for an early morning flight out and had no immediate time requirements, I could sit back and let the driver deal with it.

Karen Sandness in Minneapolis, MN USA 07/04/2007

When we chose Cathedral View B&B in Salisbury we thought we were settling for second best as you recommend the Spire B&B as better. However, we had the opportunity to sample breakfasts at both establishments and found our breakfast at Cathedral View to be superior... homemade jams, farm fresh eggs and the best bacon. Everything was cooked to perfection. Our accommodation exceeded our expectations in every way. We always travel with your guides and we have never been disappointed. Keep up the good work and thank you.

Doug and Trudy Worth in North Vancouver, BC Canada 06/25/2007

I recently returned from a 2 week holiday in England (June 2007). I used your England guidebook and found it very useful! There is one addition that I would like to mention though. I'm a Beatle's fan and went to Liverpool to check out all the Beatle sights. Your guide was very useful for that. However there is one sight not known to many Beatle fans - and that is the Casbah Coffee Club. Briefly, this is the club where the Beatles started. John, Paul, and George played there on the opening night in 1959 as the Quarry Men. After coming back from Hamburg in 1960 they were ready to disband, but the owner of the Club convinced them not to and gave them bookings at the Casbah which lasted for 18 months. It was the owner of the Club who phoned the owner of the Cavern Club and told them about the Beatles...and the rest is history. The Casbah Club is located at 8 Haymans Green in West Derby. I took a cab from the city centre which cost about 10 pounds, but it is also on the bus lines. You can book also from the Beatles Story at Albert Docks. Booking ahead appears mandatory, but they asked me what time I wanted to come, so it appears you can set your own time for the tour. Cost was 15 pounds. My tour was led personally by a member of the Best family. Tour included all of the club area and I got to see the ceiling that John Lennon painted, the Rainbow room painted by Paul McCartney, the coffee room where Paul and John convinced Stu Sutcliffe to buy a bass. The tour was good in that the tour guide had first hand knowledge of the Quarry Men and the Beatles. Since Liverpool is really a 'pilgrimage' for Beatle fans, I think the Casbah Coffee Club should included in your book.

Mike MacDougall in Cambridge, ON Canada 06/24/2007

If you are travelling to Lands End by car, park your vehicle at Seddon Cove and walk across the headland to Lands End. There is a public footpath and it is absolutely beautiful. Simon at Camilla House in Penzance suggested it, and it was one of our favourite experiences of the trip. Not to be missed!

S Haggarty in Peterborough, on Canada 06/11/2007

Rick, we hope that someday you may journey down to the south coast of England and visit Lyme Regis. We found it to be simply a great place to be with tons of bed and breakfasts and a wonderful beach and atmosphere.

And maybe you could visit Oxford at one point. We could have used some of your humorous commentary there as well. We appreciated greatly your museum guides and little bits of quirky humour.

We also stayed at a wonderful bed and breakfast near Hadrian's Wall called the Old Repeater Station - i would recommend that one for the next edition if possible. I would also love to read some more about Derbyshire; somehow that gets missed too! But it's beautiful there.

[Editor's Note: We include a chapter on Oxford in our Rick Steves' England guidebook.]

Danielle Mussche in Hannon, ON Canada 06/08/2007

Broomhill Country House Hotel, Holdenby Road, Spratton, Northampton, NN6 8LD Tel (01604) 845959 www.broomhillhotel.co.uk This is near Althrop and was a lifesaver for us as we were wrapping up our trip w/o reservations in an area not covered in your book. Highly recommend it.

Mary in Orlando, FL USA 05/14/2007

I guess I just want to say that the money we spent on the guidebook was the best money we spent on the trip. Not only was it useful in planning the trip before we left, but it was great to have around during the trip. We rented a car so we could go where we wanted and haveing Rick to guide us was great. It helped us find good places to eat, nice places to stay and even helped us find parking!

Nathalie Carette-Meyers in Tacoma, wa USA 04/30/2007

Bath recommendation for anyone like me who likes to mix in some self-catering accomodation on longer trips (good value for 3+ people, so easy to do laundry, save on meals, etc). We stayed in the Abbey Green Apartment (www.laurastownhouseapartments.co.uk) and cannot recommend it enough. Beautifully located right next to the Abbey and Roman Baths, this was an absolute gem.

I love Rick's books and never visit a European country without one--they're worth their weight in gold.

Corrinne Vowels in Spokane, WA USA 04/25/2007

We visited Sheffield for five days--why is there nothing about it in the England or Britain books? Okay, so there's no special tourist site in Sheffield, but it's in the Peak District which is absolutely beautiful. Hiking opportunities abound through gorgeous pastrues, over stone walls, and beside rippling brooks. From Sheffield, we visited Chesterfield and saw the crooked spire; visited Eyam, known as the plague village for closing itself off from the rest of the country during the Bubonic Plague (1665-1666)--very peaceful village and, again, beautiful scenery; we used Sheffield as a base to visit York overnight, too. For a relaxing getaway, Sheffield might be considered as worthy of at least half a page. The Peak District deserves at least a page, doesn't it? Just some thoughts.

Jeff Cole in Beaver Falls, PA USA 03/09/2007