Croatia & Slovenia Guidebook
Best and worst sights, experiences and destinations:
Best: Walking the walls
Why: Great views, closer than the almost-aerial Mt. Srd view. Please add that you buy tickets at the ticket office to the right as you enter the Pile Gate near Onofrio's Big Fountain. If you wait in line for the the ticket-taker by the stairs he'll just send you to the ticket office.
Tom Nelson in Minneapolis, MN USA 11/27/2011
Best: Switchbacks of the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro
Why: There are 25 switchbacks climbing the mountains surrounding Kotor which are a must. The view is spectacular and worth every tight curve. Before passing through Kotor we had a leisurely stop in small and quaint Perast, climbing their bell tower, followed by a glass of wine at a small outdoor cafe.
Linda in Battle Creek, MI USA 11/07/2011
Best: Plitvice Lakes Park
Why: Absolutely stunning!
Mike in Gig Harbor, WA USA 10/30/2011
Best: Plitrvice National Park
Why: This is a wonderful natural gem, well worth the effort to get there!
Mark Iris in Chicago , IL USA 10/23/2011
Best: Driving tour of Montenegro
Why: I would not have tried this driving tour without the information in the book - and it was the most fun day of our entire trip.
Kyle in San Francisco, CA USA 10/18/2011
Best: Dubrovnik Old Town
Why: Your book describes it better than I can. Not to be missed!
Glynn Mapes in New York, NY USA 10/06/2011
Best: Rovinj & Istria
Why: Beautiful countryside and wonderful people. We started in Rovinj and wished we would have ended our trip there, it was so relaxing. No one visiting Croatia should miss Istria!
Worst: Split
Why: We couldn't get past all the graffiti. It just seemed as if no one really loves or cares about the place anymore. It is heartbreaking, really. Two nights in Split was painful; stay in Trogir instead.
Dawn Dawsey in St Paul, MN USA 09/19/2011
Best: Plitvice Park
Why: It was amazing! I cannot wait to bring my family here.
Worst: Dubrovnik
Why: Not as cool as you say Rick. It is overrun with tourists and there are cooler cities to see.
David Krupski in Elkridge, MD USA 08/06/2011
Best: Maja Benzon as our tour guide in Trogir and Split
Why: She was fantastic and accomodating in every way. We spent a glorious day exploring the cities, including the green market.
Worst: Tour guide Pepo Klaic in Dubrovnik
Why: He took our reservation months in advance (for my 50th birthday) and then "lost " it when I tried to confirm. He just said sorry I took another reservation instead. I only booked him because of the recommendations on these boards. It was a disappointing experience and it ruined my only day (and my birthday) in Dubrovnik. I kept all of my correspondence as proof of what happened with him.
wendy bennett in plymouth meeting, pa USA 08/03/2011
Best: Alma Elezovic
Why: A warm-hearted and knowledgeable guide who became a good friend.
Eric Huseth in Berkeley, Ca USA 08/03/2011
Worst: Food in Dubrovnik a definite rip off as you so well described.
Why: small portions extra charge for olive oil!! Pizza- a nightmare!
Johanna Collura in South Orange, NJ USA 07/14/2011
Best: Plitvice National Park.
Why: Unique and spectacular. See it now before it gets discovered (and crowded). Follow Rick's itinerary -- Upper Lake (lower half only), then Lower Lake.
Worst: Dubrovnik
Why: Not really the worst, but it is a bit overrated. Definitely worth seeing, but 2 plus days is too much. The town (not really a city) is unique and beatiful, but it is Disneyfied and culturally sterile. You get no sense that you are in Croatia. Everyone speaks English. There are very few actual Croatians living within the city walls. As Rick advised, it is overrun with cruise ship tourists during the day. Go out after 4:00 p.m., walk around the wall, stroll the streets. Skip the 45 minute boat trip -- you cannot see anything but the outer wall.
Bob K. in Potomac, MD USA 07/02/2011
Worst: Dalmatian Villas in Split
Why: Don't recommend: very small and noisy, but does have a nice enclosed terrace.
Larry Iversen in Bremerton, WA USA 06/27/2011
Best: Bay of Kotor
Why: the scenery was just amazing
Peggi Johnson in Vienna, VA USA 06/05/2011
Best: Skocjan caves, Slovenia
Why: More interesting than Postonja caves which are far busier.
Mary Mure in London, England 03/28/2011
Best: Dominican Monastery Museum and the Fish Picnic
Why: The museum had some truly excellent and unexpected Renaissance art, and the Fish Picnic was an inexpensive and fun way for a single traveler to explore the coast.
Ali in Brooklyn, NY USA 03/15/2011
Best: Samobor
Why: Beautiful hotel and pleasant town that allowed us to experience
Joyce Erickson in Seattle, WA USA 10/27/2010
Best: Bled, Slovenia
Why: Beautiful location, walker's paradise, great food (especially the cream cake!), friendly people, inexpensive lodging
Worst: Diocletian's Palace in Split
Why: Huge crowds as well as voluminous and persistent clouds of cigarette smoke throughout the building
Chris Peter in El Cajon, CA USA 10/26/2010
Best: Everything.
Why: Dubrovnik was wonderful, Ljubljana charming, Soca River and Vrsic pass were beautiful, Karst was great, Rovinj was quaint, loved Plitvice and found Kotor to be interesting.
Worst: Lake Bled
Why: The town was too touristy and not charming at all. If you've been to Hallstatt, Austria, you will be disappointed with Bled. Though we enjoyed the Vintgar Gorge and hiking near Bohinj.
Natalia in Sherwood, Or USA 10/24/2010
Best: The Vintgar Gorge near Bled
Why: The Vintgar Gorge (the poor man's Plitvice), is easy to get to (with a car), beautiful and unique. Combine it with a hike back to Bled for a fun day. Not as stunning as Plitvice (or crowded), but beautiful, nonetheless
Dave Johnson in Sacramento, CA USA 10/22/2010
Best: Mostar, Bosnia
Why: Absolutely loved this place - small enough to easily get around on foot. Not crowded. Parked on the street for free. Loved shopping here. Prices very reasonable for everything. People very friendly. Amazed at rebuilding of buildings damaged from the war.
Nancy Isaacson in Bloomington, IL USA 10/17/2010
Best: Old Town Dubrovnik
Why: Wonderful UNESCO site
Worst: Hotel Liburna
Why: 3D hotel - dark, dank and dismal!
Toni in Nyack, NY USA 09/12/2010
Best: 1. Spending time with city guides- Alma & Ermin Elezovic (Mostar) and Pepo Klaic (Dubrovnik) 2. Skocjan Caves, Slovenia 3. Kayaking with www.adriatickayaktours.com in Dubrovnik 4. Taking the Solta Olive Oil tour with Lifejacket Adventures in Split 5. Going to Mostar
Why: 1. I can't speak highly enough of Alma, Ermin and Pepo. We spent a day in Mostar with Alma & Ermin learning about the history of Mostar. Their love for their city came through so clearly. In Dubrovnik we spent the day with Pepo. The conversations we had with these 3 people will stay with us always. These two days were undoubtedly the highlight of our trip. Spend time with them. You will not regret it. 2. Hiking through caverns, suspended high above a raging river - fantastic. 3. Kayaking around the Elaphite islands was great. 4. Solta Island tour - 4 people - spoke with a bee keeper, as well as the owner of an olive orchard. Very passionate about their family businesses -- beautiful island. 5. Going to Mostar was a good experience -- bus from Dubrovnik easy - walked from bus station to Old Bridge to find Motel Emen. Very safe... walking at midnight with people pushing strollers, elderly people sitting on benches.... but shocking to see building after building in ruins, the facade covered in bullet holes and trees growing out of bombed out buildings. Wish we would have included Saravejo in our itinerary as well.
J & G Grunau in Abbotsford, BC Canada 08/30/2010
Best: 1. Spending time with city guidesSkocjan Caves, Slovenia
Why: Hiking through caverns, suspended high above a raging river - fantastic.
J & G Grunau in Abbotsford, BC Canada 08/30/2010
Best: Bay of Kotor, Korcula, MOstar
Why: Bay of Kotor: I thought the scenery was outstanding and it was a close day trip. Walk the walls and in the summer bring water and wear a hat! (I took an excursion run by a tour company that went there and to the Budva Riviera, which was a disappointment) Korcula: I spent nearly a week there. It's the kind of place where you relax and unwind. I loved the sword dance even though it's for tourists. The water is amazingly clear. The food was good and the people nice. Mostar was good but not quite what I expected. Progress is taking over and you see fewer signs of the war. The film you recommend is worth a thousand words, and a good personal guide is essential, or else you may not understand the war or see much evidence of what happened except vacant buildings. There is that one bullet-ridden building on the corner of the main road, and another few, but the town was quite different from what I expected from the guidebook's descriptions. It's pretty cleaned up, so unless you ask questions you won't get a good understanding of the significance of the place.
Gretchen Brown in Charlotte, NC USA 08/20/2010
Best: Rovinj/ Lake Bled/Julian Alps drive/Pula day trip/ Ljubljana TIs
Why: Rovinj - An absolute hidden gem. I was a bit worried that my boys (ages 12/14) would be bored in our five days there. We could have stayed another week easily. Bike rentals, miles of off-road trails, beaches and snorkeling provided days of active fun for all of us. (not to mention riding bikes through traditional European beaches which nearly caused them to ride their bikes into trees at several moments along the ride - by the end of the first day, it was no longer a big deal) The Old Town was made for wandering and exploring - perfect.
Lake Bled - Ended up going on two day trips there from Ljubljana we enjoyed it so much. Loved the swimming area where you pay to go in - just under the castle. Went on a Friday and spent the day with the locals.
Julian Alps drive - This was one of the more memorable portions of the trip. Beautiful drive - the driving tips and descriptions along the way were like having a personal guide in the car. The memorable portion occured when our car broke down at the pull out at switchback #28. My husband and older son had to hike up to the restuarant at the top (we decided we'd purchase a cell phone on our next trip). People were so helpful! After a couple hours we were able to get the car started, continued the drive - the long way through Idrija - but we didn't make stops, which is a good thing because on our return to Ljubljana, the car was DOA. Your comments, directions and historical commentary for this drive were both entertaining and educational. Very enjoyable. Pula - guided tour was excellent. The historical sites were simply breathtaking. Ljubljana TIs - you were most correct - they were a wealth of information and over the top helpful.
Sorry, but it was too difficult to narrow down to one "best" thing.
Worst: Valentino's (Rovinj)
Why: The four of us went at sunset one evening. I was envisioning a peaceful, quiet experience, maybe some soft jazz playing in the background, but it turned out to be loud, thumping techo music that one might expect in an establishment where poles are involved. Drinks are overpriced. One of the few places I had the feeling "hurry up, drink and get out" Next time, I would enjoy the sunset from one of the cafes across the waterfront - nearly the same view and probably a much cheaper drink. Maybe the music thing was simply that night though, we didn't return. A little disappointing.
Denise in Bozeman, MT USA 08/03/2010
Worst: Hotel Villa Bovec, Slovania
Why: If you want to stay with a husband, wife, baby, two dogs, and weeds in the backyard, bad breakfast, air ( but they won't turn it on) Door knob that falls off, heat so bad in room that you can't fall asleep, but can't open doors as you already killed a mosquito, refride did not work, vcr/tv didn't work, The owner is not really that nice, kind of a "witch" Worst hotel in 2 weeks trip, checked out early
Deborah in Tustin, ca USA 07/29/2010
Best: East West Club
Why: Favorite late night beachside dance club for locals as well as various European tourists. Take a right when exiting the Pile Gate and walk for 7 mins. Closes at 5 AM.
Jason in Heil, OH USA 07/25/2010
Best: Travelguard auto insurance.
Why: I had purchased Travelguard Auto insurance per your request for Croatia. I also decided to purchase Trip insurance. Well, The volcano erupted, we never made it to Croatia, and were "stranded" in Paris for a week. Travelguard paid for everything. refunded our car insurance, paid for food,lodging, additional and canceled train fares, even glasses of wine! Bravo to Rick Steves and Travelguard! It surely was a happy travel, in spite of the cancellation of Croatia
Jerry Witz in Minneapolis, mn USA 06/13/2010
Best:
Why: I
Ernie & Lucille Walter in Sturgeon County, AB Canada 12/13/2009
Best: Dubrovnik
Why: Rick is correct that the city is overrun during the day. However, after the crowds have headed back to their cruise ships, the city is absolutely beautiful. It's definitely a must.
Worst: Kotor, Montenegro
Why: Unlike Mostar, Kotor didn't offer anything significantly different from what we had already seen in Croatia. And, as other travelers have pointed out, definitely not worth the wait at the border. We were stuck in the line for over an hour each way.
Rose in Frankfurt am Main, Germany 11/04/2009
Best: Mostar
Why: Brought the reality of the conflict to life.
Richard Lee in Ottawa, ON Canada 10/23/2009
Best: Rovinj
Why: The twisty roads and lovely working harbor. You get a taste of real life being there.
Worst: Dessert place in lake bled, Slovenia, " s'mon slascicarna"
Why: The creme cake was dry, airy and spongy. It was also pretty tasteless!
Amy Adler in Baltimore, Md USA 10/22/2009
Best: Plitvice Lakes National Park
Why: Stunning scenery; gorgeous place
Barbara Lagrou in Tacoma, WA USA 10/21/2009
Best: Hiring PeterVlasic to take us on a wine tour
Why: It was a great day, in addition to wineries he took us to tomp of Mt Srd, the botanic gardens, Ston, the salt flats and a couple of hidden coves to swim. We also used him for airport transfers. Very reliable, great English. Highly recommend. He told us to skip Mostar; we should have listened
Worst: Atlas trip to Mostar in Bosnia
Why: 12 hours on a bus and 3 hours in Mostar in 104 degree heat. A major tourist trap; every just wants money. And if you have been to Turkey or Tunisia, there is nothing special about Mostar's Muslim community. The guide in Mostar was very knowledgeable. Atlas doesn't tell you about the 1 1/2 hours each way wasted picking up and dropping off passengers. A complete waste of time.
Pat Vinkenes in Arlington, VA USA 09/13/2009
Best: Driving up the pass in the Julian Alps
Why: Wonderful sights, great history and a fun drive - not scary at all. We especially enjoyed the WWI history museum in Kobarid.
Worst: Beware the suspension bridges!
Why: This wasn't a bad experience, but the suspension bridges over the Soca River are getting a little care-worn. Lots of rotten boards and some spots where you can see through the wood to the river below. Bouncing probably not recommended!
TCL in Union County, NJ USA 07/15/2009
Best: Korcula
Why: A delightful quiet sidetrip. Can't miss the big sights - Dubrovnik, Split, Ljubljana - but glad we took 2 days to relax in Korcula.
Jan Henderson in Laguna Beach, CA USA 06/03/2009