IstanbulFavorite discoveries or tips: Notwithstanding my comments [below] - my wife and I enjoyed our second visit to Istanbul. [Our first was 10 years ago, at the start of a Rick Steves Turkey Tour.] Edward Pouchet in Fairfax, VA USA 11/14/2009 A new shop in the Arasta bazaar; run by a Canadian woman. She's selling handloomed towels, Turkish bath towels, scarves and a variety of other bath and body products. GREAT quality! Fair prices! Super service!! Can't say enough ... you really need to add this shop to your shopping info! Jennifer's Hamam Arasta Bazaar, No. 135 Sultanahmet, Fatih Istanbul, 34400 Valerie James in Istanbul, Turkey 11/08/2009 The Galata Tower has a restaurant at the top with great views - this is not mentioned anywhere in the book that I can find. It is touristy with a dinner and show with music and belly dancing, runs about 40-50 TL. You should at least mention it when discussing the tower. Dale in Fairfield, OH USA 07/19/2009 There is a separate ticket line for non-Turks(which were much shorter than for the Turkish visitors)at least for the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and Archaeological Museum. Darleen Beals in Sonoma, CA USA 06/28/2009 Hotel Valide Sultan -- Should include the fact that it is located by a very noisy street due to buses and taxis gearing down to go up the hill. Otherwise the information is correct. Darleen Beals in Sonoma, CA USA 06/28/2009 Princes Island/horse-drawn carriage trip Jane Wolfarth in Salt Lake City, ut USA 06/21/2009 I stayed at the Hotel Poem at 12 Terbiyik Sokak off Akbiyik Caddesi. A lovely, affordable small hotel. Akbiyik Cad has lots of restaurants, a laundry and a small market. Jackie Farbeann in Columbus, OH USA 06/19/2009 Amedros restaurant in Sultanahmet was GREAT! Here is the contact information: Divanyolu Cad. Hoca Rüstem Sok. No: 7 Sultanahmet / ISTANBUL TURKEY TEL :+90 212 522 83 56 e-mail : info@amedroscafe.com We also loved Zencefil in the Taksim Square area: Kurabiye Sok. 3, Istanbul, 0212/244-4082 (when I looked up the restaurant, the NY Times had reviewed it as well). Lastly, Rumeli in the Sultanhamet neighborhood was excellent: Divanyolu Caddesi Ticarethane Sokak 8, Sultanahmet, Istanbul, Turkey? - 0212 512 0008? So many of the recommendations in your book were fantastic - thanks for a great experience! Sara Patterson in Atlanta, GA USA 06/15/2009 The area outside the Istanbul Modern museum is fun to walk through at night. It's full of tent like structures with what looks like bean bag chairs full of people smoking nargiles and watching soccer. Matti in Chicago, IL USA 04/12/2009 Resources: I-Tunes University is an excellent FREE source of pre-travel information. It offers programs/lectures/videos from the Metropolitan Art Museum, Oxford, Cambridge, Duke,Yale, Open University. I found an interesting video lecture on Rumi and Sufi Traditions in Islamic Art. There is a wealth of information on all sorts of subjects:Language, Humanities, Fine Arts, Science, History,. It takes a "little digging" , but well worth the exploration! You can download these programs onto your I-Pod or simply watch them on your computer. in Islamic Art. Karen in Schaumburg, IL USA 04/11/2009 My favorite discovery was how useful the Akbil transportation pass was. Rick's book is completely incorrect in stating you need a passport photo to obtain an Akbil. They are available without need for any photo at several kiosks around town. If you have trouble getting one, ask your hotel to obtain one for you. The Akibil is a rechargeable transportation pass accepted on 90 percent of the transportation options in Istanbul. It is also cheaper than purchasing a jeton for each trip and much less cumbersome. Trying to keep track of jetons is a pain. Again, I'm not sure why the guidebook doesn't recommend them wholeheartedly since they are easy to obtain and use and cheaper than the alternative. Also, there is a tiny closet-sized shop in the Grand Bazaar that has amazing deals on South Sea uncultured pearls. The name is Nazende and it is in the Old Bazaar area at 86-87 erifag a Sokak. It is directly across from a nautical instruments shop. Shelby in Columbia, SC USA 04/08/2009 All museums only take Turkish Lira and if you are on a ship they don't provide Lira. I suggest you carry some with you as ATMS are not near the main sights and you will pay a hefty fee to exchange. This is critical when you have very limited tour time. Elaine Daniels in Sacraamento, CA USA 11/26/2008 Our trip to Istanbul was greatly enhanced because we read the memoir Istanbul by Istanbul native and Nobel prize-winner, Orhan Pamuk, before our trip. It was so evocative of the essence of the city, that we felt like old friends returning home. Please recommend the book. [Editor's Note: You'll be happy to know we do recommend Orhan Pamuk's Istanbul on p. 347 of the most recent (3rd) edition of our Istanbul guidebook.] Carol Miller in Cypress, CA USA 11/20/2008 A recommendation: We stayed five nights last month at the Orient Express Hotel. It's located along the tramway between the Gulhane and Sirkeci stops, allowing for an easy walk to anyplace between Sultanamet and the Galata Bridge. We pre-arranged for their advertised free pick-up at IST airport, so when we got through Turkish Customs a driver was waiting for us. Also advertised is a 7% dicount when paying cash upon check-in. Our €495 quote became €461 when I handed over our leftovers from Germany. The room was of adequate size, kept very clean. The staff was friendly and helpful. We were very happy. Paul Kakazu in Walnut, CA USA 11/12/2008 On the new district walk I would suggest a nice cafe Sarray Muhallebicisi. It has been there since 1935 and you can feel the classiness of the place. Aron Kansal in Prague, CZ Czech Republic 10/30/2008 1. One can see the Bosphorus also taking the ferry at Eminönü station/Bogaz Isk. for 1,4 YTL (for one-way jeton). 2. There is another underground cisterne than Yerebatan Sarayi: the Binbirdirek cisterne - without tourist masses and includes an interesting exposition about early byzantian buildings (represented by nice maquettes). 3. The small church of Ss Segius and Bacchus / Kücük Aya Sofya Camii / is worth to see: to discover its similarities with the St. Vitale in Ravenna or the church in Aachen (octogonal shape), and simply enjoy its stone carvings, its lightness and beauty. 4. The hamams indicated in the book became too touristic, therefore I went to Kadiköy and asked for a hamam, and so found one close to the ferry-port with Iznik-looking tiles and local clients. Cost: 30 YTL. 5. Hostel in Sultanahmet: the Big Apple Hostel! Very good service for a hostel. On Hostelbookers. 6. An idea for one-week stay in Istanbul: I did visite the city according to historical periods, the book of Jane Taylor: Imperial Istanbul helped me in that. 7. Further readings: I found these books very helpful: -Jane Taylor: Imperial istanbul, Tauris Parke Paperbacks, 2007, -Robin Cormack: Byzantine Art, Oxford History of Art, Oxford University Press, 2000. 8. To enjoy the evening/night lights of the "Golden Horn - Bosphorus joint": I took the ferry-boat from Karaköy to Üsküdar or to Kadiköy, to and back. Farago Eva in Szombathely, Hungary 10/20/2008 For those not interested in spending an entire day cruising the Bosphorus there are inexpensive (7YTL) 1.5 hour cruises that go as far as the second bridge with mostly locals on board. They are located on the WEST side of Galata Bridge near the bobbing restaurant boats -- not on the other side of the Bridge where touts will insist that their expensive cruise is the ONLY choice. This is mentioned in the guidebook but directions are unclear as to where to find the ticket booths. Gail Gerdemann in Albany, OR USA 06/26/2008 I found the Metro and Tramvay to be very, very good for connections from the Ataturk Airport to the Sultanahamet area. It was so inexpensive, easy and people were very friendly. While others sit in traffic in taxis and spend over $25, ride the Metro and Tramvay and spend about $3 to get there faster! Best to stay in Sultanahamet too as it is close to everything. Amy Sinclair in Novato, CA USA 06/05/2008 Java Studio Sultanahmet, Istanbul, Turkey Best coffee and carrot cake in all of Sultanahmet (beats Starbucks hands down). Great little sanctuary away from the crowds. Great staff and the Canadian owner (Jennifer) is fantastic - really helpful and friendly.
Melissa in Portland, OR USA 05/19/2008 I had a particularly good shopping experience in Istanbul in the Sultanhamet district. The Kilim Home is a storefront on an out-of-the way sidestreet - Tavukhane No. 30. It is steps from the Hippodrome/Blue Mosque. The manager, Ayhan, could not be more helpful. What caught my eye first, though, was the beautiful window display of multicolor hats - a still life photograph begging to be taken. The entire store was a pleasure and the goods are high quality. I brought home two gifts that will come complete with a story about the Turkish hospitality Ayan showed me and the tea we shared as we talked about more than just a business transaction. Rich McGourty in Chicago, IL USA 05/12/2008 Istanbul Enjoyer Cafe, great Turkish food, $, great presentation, some of the friendliest waiters and managers we found. We were laughing and joking with them. We ate lunch there. Then the next day I went to get their business card and the manager remembered us. Then we ate dinner there and the same waiter laughed and joked with us. Then our waiter warmed up to us and was talking with us even more. 1/2 block behind the Cistern Address: Incili Cavus Sok. No: 25 Sultanahmet, Istanbul Inter Sport Hotel in Istanbul It's not cute, so if it's not your "style", then don't bother. But, it was a good price in a good location right across from the Grand Bazaar. Non-smoking, but not true non-smoking room. $, A/C, Triple w/private bath. 89 Euro / ni. for a triple (through a local travel agent at airport). Restaurant on 5th floor had a nice view of the boats in the strait. Free shuttle to and from the airport. Mark McKnight in Austin, TX USA 04/07/2008 On the cruise up the Bosporus, we followed your tip to get off in Sariyer. Followed your directions to a group of fish restaurants where we had the fried mussels. The price/quality of the food was terrific, and this experience will live a long time in our memories. Without your advice we never would have thought to go there. We hope to return someday and visit some of the other villages along the Bosporus, as they all seem a lot less touristy than the Sultanahment area. Gary Fogal in Renton, WA USA 03/16/2008 I liked Mawi Balik restaurant (under the Galata Bridge)and Amebros Restaurant - Sultanahmet area and the Hotel Niles - small rooms (Eurpean size) and some street noise but VERY clean and well-cared for, excellent staff, free internet in lobby, and great terrace cafe with view of the sea (and good continental breakfast).
Add the Caligraphy Museum, over by Istanbul University. It's small (but only 3YTL, 1YTL for students) but if anyone is interested in the subject, it's a must see. Give it one star and recommend for folks staying a week. Karen Muncaster in Westford, MA USA 01/07/2008 I’m not a big shopper at home, but it was fun riding the local bus (#559C, and others) from Taksim Square to Akmerkez Shopping Mall in the Etiler neighborhood. This high-end place—once named the world’s best shopping mall -- is great for watching locals buy clothes, books, and housewares. Head to the 4th-floor food court, where Burger King and doner kebabs sell side-by-side. A well-supplied grocery store, “Macrocenter,” sells tasty deli food for an impromptu picnic. Nisantasi is another great area for high-end shopping and people-watching.
Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 What fun to meet the characters mentioned in the Grand Bazaar tour!! Carpet expert Sisko Osman and his nephew offered me tea as I watched them display ancient Turkish palace rugs for a French couple. Without a word of English, goldsmith Ayhan Usta showed me his latest “burning” creation in the fire. Dr. Suleyman of Egin Tekstil let me write graffiti on a wood block for his new graffiti wall ( the other one was centuries old!), and I watched Europeans dealers buy his famed Turkish pestemals in bulk for their stores. I thought the Grand Bazaar would intimidate me with its aggressive shopkeepers, but I happily shopped with these folks, thrilled to get an insider-slice of their typical Turkish workdays.
Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 Hagia Sophia: Arrive early enough to be right next to the gate when it opens. Buy your ticket immediately and scurry to the entrance, beating the slower tour groups. The first time I did this I had the entire museum to myself for 3-4 minutes, and in those precious minutes I prayed, deeply moved by a sense of history and holiness in this most sacred place. On a second visit several people were already inside, so I headed to the Upper Galleries where I easily had 5 minutes alone among the ancient, Christian mosaics – an unforgettably spiritual experience.
Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 Take the public ferry (look for “Adalar Iskelesi”) from Kabatas to Princes’ Islands for an authentically Turkish half- or full-day getaway. Price is 2 YTL one-way for the 90-minute trip, which ends at Buyukada, the last (and best) of these treasured islands. Weekdays are less crowded. No cars are allowed, so take a horse-drawn carriage, rent a bike, or walk (I walk). Hike up the steep hill to 6th-century Aya Yorgi (St. George) Church and Monastery with its 360-degree-views and outdoor café with tasty food and wine. (I liked the lamb shish kebab and cheese borek.) Seasonal ferry schedules and fares at: http://www.ido.com.tr/en/index.cfm. (Some guidebooks list the departure ferry dock as Sirkeci, but it’s recently changed to Kabatas.) For a local perspective, view a young Turkish woman’s photos and memories of living on Buyukada as a child: http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~hulya/PicturesFromPrincessIslands.html Helen Holter in Seattle, WA USA 11/01/2007 Saray Muhallebicisi – To-die-for desserts, including that old Turkish standard, baklava. I brought home a kilo of “mixed” baklava, samples made from different nuts. Saray has several locations; I visited the one on Istiklal Cad. By the way, I like the pared-down, limited selection of restaurants for each sightseeing area. Too many guidebooks overwhelm me with too many choices, and they’re often difficult to find, anyway. Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 If you buy/bring an Istanbul map, be sure it lists updated, expanded transportation routes. The tram now crosses Galata Bridge and ends at Kabatas. Light rail now stretches to Ataturk Airport. You can reach Taksim Square via the funicular at Kabatas; the Princes’ Islands public ferry now departs from Kabatas, not Sirkeci. By the way, I paid 6 YTL for the “All of Istanbul 2007 edition” map published by Net Maps.
Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 If you’re “mosqued out,” take a breather on the trendy pedestrian street, Istiklal Cadessi, stopping by Pera Museum off Istiklal Cad. with its first-rate collection of Oriental paintings, home-style Kutahya tiles, and old-fashioned (read Anatolian) weights and measures. When you’re done, cross the street for dramatic western views of the city – a good place to picnic on the low wall or to simply rest at sunset. Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 Eyup is a treasure. Not only did I shoot some of my best Istanbul photos at this super-sacred mosque and in the surrounding neighborhood, I was deeply moved by the intense feeling of faith of those in prayer. Helen Holter in Seattle , WA USA 11/01/2007 Beware - if you are wanting a shorter cruise, be sure to go the the west side of the Galata Bridge, to the Turyol ticket booth. There are boats on the east side of the bridge that are quoting cruise rates much higher than the 6 YTL for Turyol cruises. Dale in Fairfield, Oh USA 07/17/2007 |
