Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol Guidebook
Favorite discoveries or tips:
We went to Vienna and Salzburg in early December 2011. This is a wonderful time of year to be in those cities, with lots of lights, "Christmas villages," and large numbers of locals out on the streets at night enjoying their gluhwein. The Mariahilferstrasse is closed to automobile traffic on weekend evenings, making strolling quite enjoyable. In Salzburg, the Christmas Villages take over the squares, the locals are out in large numbers, and there are local choirs singing on the steps of the Cathedral. Very festive!
Steve Macfarlane in Carmichael, CA USA 01/16/2012
The Culture Made Easy Night (Oct 1, 2011 this year) was a great opportunity to see the Liechtenstein Museum. This museum is a gem. Much better than the Kunst Museum. Their library, furniture, and art collection are outstanding. The family history is a microcosm of European history.
mark brumbaugh in morristown, nj USA 10/11/2011
Courtesy of the guide book recommendation for 2002 we stayed at HAUS GASSNER, Moosstasse 126B, A-5020 Salzburg, Austria during our visit of April 2003. At that time Maria Gassner, proprietor recommended an excellant resturant, REITERHOF MOOS, Moosstrasse 135, 5020 Salzburg, Tel 0662/82 50 24. We dined there then, on a return visit in 2007 and during our most recent visit from which we just returned. All three times the food, traditional german cuisine, was reasonably priced and excellant quality. Tony and Tina Walkner, the hosts, are most welcoming and gracious. The resturant is on the second floor of a riding academy. Windows of the west wall look out on an arena of patrons riding their horses. If you do not include this resturant in your recomendations for the next publication you will be doing a great disservice to your readers. Also, my wife, Carol, on line discovered a cooking class in Arles conducted by Eric Vedel. We arrived 9 am Saturday 9/25. There were 5 of us total. After we all arrived, we went from Eric's home, where the calss is held, to the market. There Eric purchased a plethora of vegtables, pears, mussels, cuddlefish and mullet. We carried the purchases back to his kitchen and under his supervision prepared a sumputous lunch. The cost of the calss was 100 E each for 3 of us which Carol pronounced a bargin and the highlight of her trip. Contact Eric at 1041 Chemin des Vendanges, 84000 Avignon. 33 (0) 6 88 50 03 62
LOWELL HANCUH in EAGAN, MN USA 10/07/2011
Section on Bratislava very useful and well done for a quick visit -- especially the whimsical statues. definitely worth taking the high speed boat one way.
Philip Braverman in New York, NY USA 09/05/2011
1. Bus 2A provides a cool if bumpy little tour between Kirchengasse at Mariahilfer Strasse (two blocks east of Neubaugasse) and Schwedensplatz.
2. The "too-big" full-size public transportation map (€2.50) is great for longer stays and for seeing ALL of the many buses and streetcars, for staying above ground, and for just riding around looking at city life.
Bill Gordon & Nancy Weiss in Miami, FL USA 07/17/2011
My husband and I loved staying at Apartement Fallenhauser in Hallstatt. For the price, Ingrid Fallenhauser's place is more homey and better equipped than amost any place we've ever stayed anywhere and we've traveled a great deal. For inclement weather, she's got giant umbrellas handy so you can continue your explorations, her kitchen is very well stocked, not only with plates, glasses, pot and pans, etc., but spices, fresh fruit and veg, cozy bathrobes, slippers, and her bathroom is equipped with every convenience, including shaving cream! The apartment is FULL OF LIGHT, offers fabulous views of the lake and there's a cool, hidden garden in back for days that may be too hot. Ingrid was born in the village, rents out a room in her ancestral home and knows all the ins and outs and best places to eat, explore, etc. She's also spent significant time living in the States and speaks excellent English. We highly recommend her place.
Kathleen Waton in Jackson, GA USA 07/14/2011
Standing room only tickets for the Vienna Opera will not be sold to people wearing shorts! The nicely dressed man in shorts ahead of us in line was told to leave and come back dressed not is shorts before a ticket could be sold. Need to add this ASAP for summer opera-goers.
Lisa Miller in Edgewood, KY USA 07/05/2011
Standing room only tickets for the Vienna Opera will not be sold to people wearing shorts! The nicely dressed man in shorts ahead of us in line was told to leave and come back dressed not is shorts before a ticket could be sold. Need to add this ASAP for summer opera-goers.
Lisa Miller in Edgewood, KY USA 07/05/2011
If you are interested in serious music in Vienna, another good alternative to the Opera or the Vienna Philharmonic at the Musikverein is the Vienna Symphoniker. The hall they play out of escapes my memory but is very beautiful and stately and the symphony is of very high calibre even if not the Philharmonic!
Karen Lee in Calgary, AB Canada 06/10/2011
We really liked the restaurant "Zirkel Wirt" in Salzburg--here's their website: http://www.zirkel-wirt.at/willkommen.html Our guide, Jurgen, from Bob's Special Tours recommended it--it's kind of a student hang-out/pub place, but families are welcome. The food was wonderful; generous portions, nicely cooked and presented, the staff were friendly and the price was reasonable, too. This would be a great addition to the guidebook. Maybe you could have one of your people check it out. We were staying at Pension Chiemsee, so it was super-convenient for us, too.
Laurie Zaepfel in St. Paul, MN USA 04/15/2011
the rooms bed&breakfast
keren dworschak in Boston, MA USA 12/16/2010
We tried the restaurant "Vapiano" (it's a chain and it exists in Washington DC, but I did not expect to find it in Vienna), very close to our Pension on MariaHilferstrasse, great food and open late. We met a great tourguide, Adrienn Bartek-Rhomberg, http://www.experience-vienna.at/, and did two private tours of Vienna with her. Her English was great, she knew a lot and was a pleasure to talk to, she gave us a lot of information and we truly enjoyed the walks with her.
Marina in Washington, DC USA 10/18/2010
We were looking for a Chinese restaurant in Vienna (there aren't many) and found this only 100 yards from the Cathedral: "Shanghai" China Restaurant, JasomirgottstraBe 6, 1010 Wein. Tel 01/535 09 96. Great food, good service and over the top decor. In business for 50 years.
R. Gardner in Cleveland, OH USA 09/26/2010
At times, kids travel free on the Vienna subway. We took backroads between Hallstatt and Reutte and saw some spectacular panoramas through the Alps.
Lloyd in Mill Creek, WA USA 09/23/2010
Addition: Hotel Trumer Stube in Salzburg.
Kim Remick in Ukiah, CA USA 09/20/2010
stayed 2 nights at the Hotel Trumer Stube. Word of warning, there major construction going on to a building right next door! Construction begins promptly at daybreak and continues to sunset. Apart from that staff was knowledgeable and friendly.
Kim Remick in Ukiah, CA USA 09/20/2010
1). Cafe Am Luitpoldpark in Berchtesgaden should be in your recommended restaurants. The food was very, very good and inexpensive, and the staff is very friendly. The contact info is: Kälbersteinstr. 2 83471 Berchtesgaden Tel(08652) 964555 Fax(08652) 964556. 2). the Best Western Hotel Elefant in Salzburg is quite charming. We loved the accommodations and the breakfast.
Mike Atamian in San Diego, CA USA 09/19/2010
Our favorite hotel from our trip to Austria was the Hotel Struber in Salzburg. Excellent service. The owner was there everyday with great tips on what to do according to the weather reports. Fantastic breakfasts and great rooms for families.
Nancy Cavin in wellington, fl USA 09/09/2010
We loved the Hotel Goldene Rose in Reutte. The people were extremely nice and the food was excellent. Even the 10-year old was very impressed!
Kathy in Frankfurt am Main, Germany 08/19/2010
Hi! We loved the Waldrast Pension in Reutte, Austria. It was the perfect place to stay to see the castles etc., away from the crowds but still convenient. Thanks much for the recommendation! Kathy S.
Kathy in Frankfurt am Main, Germany 08/19/2010
We followed the book's recommendations in Salzburg even more closely than we usually do. Our accomodations in Pension Alderhof were just as described in the book. The sites also. Thanks!
robert ward in andover, nj USA 08/14/2010
We spent 3 wonderful weeks traveling by train around Austria. It was even better than expected because of the friendliness of the Austrians (and most spoke excellent English). Also, consider visiting the spectacular Otztal valley in the Tirol. We did several day hikes - our favorite was from the village of Vent. Austria at its most beautiful!
Diane and Bill in Carmel Valley, CA USA 07/27/2010
We loved your book. But your recommendation on Bob's Tours in Salzburg was dead wrong. The Tour was terrible. There was no music (radio broken) and our guide was more interested in Formula One racing than sound of Music. He never even gave us change (10 euro he owed us_. THis was the worst ever recommendation we have had. I think you oversold Bob and he is raking it in. I felt very ripped off and our kids were disappointed.
Barbara Byrne in Princeton, NJ USA 06/25/2010
A practical format for public transport tickets is the 4-ticket "pass" sold in Tabak-trafic stores. (Streinfenkarte, 7.20 euros) We found the best strudel in Demel's: light pastry and delicately sweet apples. I also recommend their mini-sacher torte. Perfect size to try this traditional desert. Thank you for suggesting the kombi-ticket for Melk and Krems. That was a marvellous day and easily planned.
Lise in montreal, QC Canada 06/25/2010
I brought the whole book with us and have ripped out and carried along the pertinent sections as needed.
Ruth Stump in East Lansing, MI USA 05/31/2010
HallStatt - new hotel that just opened this summer. The Heritage. It was fantastic...in your $$$ category. We checked out the other hotels in your guidebook - and this one is heads above the rest and in the same price range as the Gruner Baum. The rooms were very nice and modern..and took advantage of the existing architecture of the old building they were was housed in. The staff was so helpful it was astounding. We had great views of the lake, Nespresso machines in the rooms, mini-bar, robes, breakfast...quite astounding for the 189 euro a night price.
Linda Hoffman in Budapest, Hungary 01/31/2010
Vapiano's Italian Restaurant, Prater Strasse, Vienna - wonderful, fresh Italian food, including crispy salads (a rarity in Vienna) and generous portions of everything (pizza, assorted pastas, chicken and veal dishes) and a well-stocked wine and beer bar. My wife and I ate and drank very well there for only 23E. It's an immaculate, lively, delicious restaurant frequented by the young and energetic "yuppies" of Vienna.
James K. Fowler in Houston, TX USA 01/30/2010
Firenze Enoteca Singerstrasse 3 (nera St. Stephen's Cathedral) is a much better Italian choice than Danieli. Both the food and the atmosphere are better.
Lynne Dillingham in Columbia, MO USA 01/13/2010
Salzburg
Terri in Tampa, FL USA 12/10/2009
I know you write extensively about cafe culture but one wonderful cafe is called Cafe Hegelhof located at 1010 Wien Johannesgasse, 16. Local phone is 01/5128221. They have a small food menu of light fare, but speciffically the desserts are homemade and authentic about 3.30euro, cappuccino 2.70euro, and a unqiue selection of pots of tea at 3.10euro a pot. They have an english menu. The atmosphere is quite, some red veltet booths and small marble cafe tables and best of all-- all locals, no tourists!!!!
A private tour guide named Bettina Mandl, speaks wonderful english and is very warm and welcoming!! She and a driver take you all around town for an overview of the city, stopping a a few attractions (Bellevedere palace, oldest austrian church, last existing synagouge, and Hundertwasser Village and Haus, plus a drive past all the other big sites. She also does a 100euro 2 hour private tour of the Schonbrunn palace. Mobile is +43 664 312 77 88 or email bettina-mandel@chello.at.
Anne Reagan in Dayton, OH USA 12/07/2009
Elephant Restaurant in Krems. Excellent service and food at a reasonable price. Krems isn't that big, but the restaurant was recommended by locals.
Steve Krom in Seattle, WA USA 11/02/2009
While in Salzburg, I stayed in the Hotel Schwartzes Rossl, which was wonderful...not fancy...budget, clean and very friendly, front desk eager to help, great location and breakfast. It's, however, only available from July 1 through September 30. Otherwise, student housing for the Univeristy. Priesterhausgasse 6, Salzburg A 5020, 43.0662.874426, www.academiahotelsls.at. My single room was only 35 euro/day. I have photos.
Carol Fallon in Newport Beach, Ca USA 11/01/2009
The Wiener Zentralfriedhof is a must see for musicians. Section 32A of the cemetery is the burial site for Brahms, Beethoven, Strauss, Schubert and Mozart. Entering at Tor 2 would be optimal. You can pick up the guide from that gate. Ride bus 1,2 or 3 to get you to that gate. We took the train and entered at gate 11 and walked miles before finding the main entry. This place is so big it has its own bus!
Vienna at night tour on your own with the trams and walking was a great light show seeing the beautiful buildings illuminated.
Isabel Davenport in Glendale, AZ USA 10/25/2009
We had reservations to stay at the Bloberhof Hotel in Salzburg; however, upon our arrival, we discovered that there had been a plumbing problem and our room was out of commission. The innkeeper had graciously made reservations for us at a Pension Frauenschuh, which was located about a mile away. The penison was lovely and our room was very large and spotless. The breakfast menu was quite extension and Marianne made us lovely eggs every morning. The bus stop was located right in front of the pension, which made traveling to any part of the city very convenient and reasonably priced.
Sue in Las Vegas, NV USA 10/19/2009
Great book - I visited Vienna, Salzburg, and Innsbruck, so I used most of the book. Self guided walks were an excellent introduction to cities, and guides for museums were very helpful as well. The format, content, and attitude of this book were much better than any other travel guide I have used before - Lonely Planet, AAA, Michelin. I will be looking for your guides the next time I take a trip.
I took a 9" netbook on my trip and thought it was very useful. It weighs nothing and takes up little space, but it allowed me to avoid paying for internet use or waiting to use hostel computers, as well as giving me a chance to look at pictures and store information
Jim in Minneapolis, USA 09/20/2009
The CAT in Vienna is wonderful From Westbahnhoff subway station, you can check your bags to the airport for several air services, then jump on the CAT free of baggage.
Paula Harris in Milwaukie, OR USA 09/04/2009
By accident I came across the stables for the Lipizzaner stallions, and enjoyed seeing them as they came across the street from their practice, and being able to be up close to them.
Patricia Koutouzis in Marietta, GA USA 07/05/2009
I look forward to reading this guidebook. However, without knowing what is said about Hallstatt, I would like to comment on my view thereof. Our host in a nearby village dropped us in Hallstatt midweek in early June 2009 while he went on to Bad Ischl to pick up someone at the train station. After seeing Rick's description on TV some years ago, we were extremely disappointed. The place was incredibly overrrun with tourists -- busloads of seniors, of teenagers, and of assorted adults. The two hours we spent there was quite enough, for we had already seen far more interesing places nearby in the Salzkammergut. We have traveled the world, and really cannot understand this attraction with Hallstatt.
Edwin W. Brown, M.D. in Indianapolis, IN USA 07/04/2009
In Salzburg I would recommend staying at the Gaestehaus Steinerof. (Moosstraße 138, A-5020 Salzburg, Telefon 0662 / 826280; http://www.gaestehaus-steinerhof.at ) If you have a mental idea of an Alpine house this would be it. It is exactly as the website shows it to be. The only problem we encountered was the directions to the location say to take bus #60, well the bus numbers have changed and it was now #21. If you do plan on staying here, you will find it to be an experience you remember.
Jack Smith in Batesville, IN USA 06/26/2009
The musicverein in Vienna deserves better billing. The $8 s.r.o tickets are fine and we saw an amazing concert there
HELEN STEELE in KESWICK, VA USA 06/07/2009
Dear Rick, I had hoped to see you in church to tell you this, but you are probably traveling now too. Every where I go in Europe I run into happy travelers who are carrying their trusty Rick Steves books. I just returned from slightly over 2 weeks in Austria, traveling to Vienna, Salzburg and places in between. I didn't know you had a regional Austria book but someone lent me a copy and it gave me the courage to try to get a standing room ticket at the Staatsoper for one of my favourite opera's, Die Walkure. Everything worked just as you said, and even though I couldn't last standing 4 1/2 hours, I made it through the first two acts and it was glorious! So, thanks!! I was talking with students in line and they asked me to thank you for them. Your tour books were their travel Bibles!
Penny Lorenz in Mill Creek, WA USA 06/03/2009
Walking tours are wonderful. Suggest adding a link to apartment rentals; we found a centrally located apartment that was shared by four at a price lower than a single hotel room.
Augusto Aguilera in Bremerton, WA USA 05/27/2009