Florence & Tuscany 2010

Best and worst restaurants:

Best: Trattoria Casalinga
Why: Arrived early for lunch, seated quickly, nice service. Good food and many locals. Very pleasant experience.

Albert in Clanton, AL USA 10/01/2009

Best: Trattoria Za-Za
Why: Excellent pasta, nice setting

Lori in Minneapolis, MN USA 08/20/2009

Best: Trattoria "da Giorgo," Trattoria Sabatino, & Gelateria Carabe
Why: Service and food absolutely as advertised - all wonderful. Especially enjoyed the chance to escape the tourists and mingle w/locals @ Trattoria Sabatino (though we were seated at a table with two women from Indiana, who were fascinating company!). The granite at Gelateria Carabe was outstanding.

Cecilia in Dallas, Te USA 06/15/2009

Best: Trattoria "da Giorgo," Trattoria Sabatino, & Gelateria Carabe
Why: Service and food absolutely as advertised - all wonderful. Especially enjoyed the chance to escape the tourists and mingle w/locals @ Trattoria Sabatino (though we were seated at a table with two women from Indiana, who were fascinating company!). The granite at Gelateria Carabe was outstanding.

Cecilia in Dallas, Te USA 06/15/2009

Best: Tratoria Mario, Grom,Trattoria Torre
Why: Mario's GREAT food GREAT prices fun atmosphere Grom BEST gelato Trattoria Torre simply wonderful food charming decor great service.

Maggie F in St Louis, MO USA 06/01/2009

Best: the wine recommendations;
Why: these were really helpful in a sea of options. We really liked the Rosso di Montalcino and the Nobile di Montepulciano.

Worst: Trattoria al Trebbio
Why: lackluster and fairly expensive

Susan in Kansas City, KS USA 04/09/2009

Best: Vivole
Why: Best gelato-we even went out of our way to go there a second time YUM

Worst: Trattoria ZaZa
Why: Disappointing. Friendly waiters but boring food. Perhaps we had already had too many great meals?

Suzy Pare in Cleveland, Oh USA 04/04/2009

Best: Any of the local Trattorias surrounding Via Faenza
Why: Local Tuscan fare which was very fresh, good and cheap.....real comfort food.

Malissa Lakin-Watson in Savannah, Ga USA 03/25/2009

Best: Grom Gelato
Why: Simply the finest gelato I have ever had in my life, and I consider myself to be a bit of an expert here. Whatever you do in Italy (they have many stores, including a couple in NY; www.grom.it) make an effort to get here. Prices are no higher than any place else and you WILL see and taste the difference. The pistachio, the chocolate, the chocolat extra-noir, the zabaione and the fiordilatte are superb and I recommend them heartily. I think Grom's cone is the best I have ever had; perfectly neutral.

Tim in Portland, OR USA 02/25/2009

Best: Trattoria Za Za
Why: One of the best meals I had in Italy. Great ambiance, friendly and efficient staff. I arrived early on a Sunday night at 7pm and got a table but by 7:30 there was a line out the door. But worth it.

Tim in Portland, OR USA 02/25/2009

Best:
Why: We ate many different places--really didn't follow any particular recommendations. Meals rarely hot, portions modest--no complaint, tho.

Mary Ann Bernauer in Plymouth, WI USA 01/23/2009

Best: La Mescita Fiaschetteria
Why: We loved dining here. As the only tourists in the place, when we couldn't make out the Italian on one of the dishes, almost all the diners tried to help, flapping their arms and saying "bird." "Duck?", "Goose?", we questioned? Finally the charade played out: it was pheasant. And good, too. Thanks, Rick, for the great recommendation, and just around the corner from Michelangelo's David.

David Haley in Skokie, IL USA 01/21/2009

Best: Trattoria Guelfa
Why: Their ribbolita, lemony avocado-zucchini salad (which couldn't be better even in California, which grows a number of vegetables)

RK in San Francisco, CA USA 01/14/2009

Worst: Ino Bottega di Alimentari (wine and olive shop near Uffizi)
Why: Not any better deal than anywhere else and certainly not up to the expectations as suggested.

Patrick in Cupertino, CA USA 10/31/2008

Best: can't remember the name, but it was just
Why: a few steps below Il Campo in Siena -- we walked past it and then found our way back -- went for lunch -- they had special pasta of the day which was exceptional, and we didn't have to even think about what we were going to eat!

Celia Strickler in Palmetto, FL USA 09/24/2008

Worst: Ichi c'e c'e in Florence
Why: Lousy service and mediocre food and fake atmosphere. The waiter forgot one of our orders, and orders arrived haphazardly. The food was the only disappointing meal we had on our whole three-week trip. The stracotta, traditional florentine beef dish, was clearly microwaved as the heat was very uneven. The proprieter allowed in a flower seller and complained to the peddler that the roses were old. We left disgusted.

bill catlin in st. paul, MN USA 07/12/2008

Best: Ai Quattro Venti - Montepulicano
Why: Enjoyed the food, and service. The bread salad was just amazing. Great wine too! We had the sausage and beans....just delicious.

Shari in Sherman Oaks, Ca USA 07/07/2008

Best: Everything recommended in Florence that we went to was wonderful.
Why: They were as described in the book.

Barbara Prickett in Tucson, Az USA 06/16/2008

Best: Sbragia Pizzeria and Pizzeria Rusticanella, Lucca
Why: Sbragia, via Fillungo, great pizza. Pizzeria Rusticanella, via S. Paolino, has reasonably priced and good menu di giorno.

Ann Prentice in Plymouth, MA USA 06/05/2008

Best: Osteria Pepò in Florence
Why: Regional tuscan food, off the beaten path.

Worst: Anything that is around Plazza Della Signoria
Why: Pasta was under cooked, waiter rubbed himself against my friends back-several times. Very strict about timing of service, close at 2 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. no exceptions!!!

Ana Miner in Novato, CZ USA 06/04/2008

Best: Trebbio LeMossace Nona Gina
Why: Three fabulous meals. We ate at another Rick rec in Orvieto (it wasn't in our book but we saw the decal in the window and figured that Rick hadn't steered us wrong yet so we went in and had a fabulous meal).

[Editor's Note: Rick Steves does not authorize any window decals for any business, period. If they are not listed in our most recent guidebook, they are not "recommended by Rick." But we're glad you enjoyed your meal!]

Maggie Flynn in Florissant, MO USA 05/29/2008

Best: La Taverna di Cecco - Siena
Why: Out favorite meal in Italy. This small restaurant had a lovely, cozy atmosphere, filled with locals, and wonderful food. The owner seemed to appreciate that we, as Americans, ordered, or at least tried to order, in Italian, and he approached after we settled the check and offered us a grapa. Definitely recommend! Also, Gatavecchia winery in Montepulciano - the best vino nobile and very friendly owner who in the middle of their busy, afternoon cleaning showed us around and gave us a tasting of their wine and homemade olive oil on their patio with a beautiful view.

Melanie in Houston, TX USA 05/13/2008

Best: Il Centro Supermercati
Why: I couldnt remember how to say "ham & cheese sandwich" in Italian, I was in a panic and froze, then I was rescued by a handsome young Casanova in the deli who happily translated for me.

Julia in San Francisco, CA USA 04/28/2008

Best: Florence Central Market
Why: My favorite. I found panforte there the cheapest and stocked up. Too bad I ate it all on the way home. Second is to buy at the little grocery store.

Worst: Square of San Marco
Why: Overpriced at best any thing there.

Linda in McAllen, TX USA 04/18/2008

Best: Ristorante Guidiriccio in Siena
Why: Just steps from Il campo in Siena, this was a great experience. The owner was very welcoming and made recommendations for the meal and the city. Fantastic!

Lisa Drage in Rochester, MN USA 04/09/2008

Best: "ad-lib lunch in Mercato Centrale"
Why: Not a restaurant at all, but one of my favorite ways to make lunch. The market is amazing. You can practice your Italian with the gentlemen selling cheese and purchase delicious food at a reasonable price.

Worst: Trattoria la Burrasca
Why: As far as price goes, this place was a good value. However, the guidebook notes that very little English is spoken. I feel as if this is no longer the case. My friends and I went to this trattoria and wanted to practice our Italian, but were spoken to only in English.

Erin in Tampa, FL USA 03/01/2008

Best: Trattoria Nella (Florence)
Why: Great food at honest prices. But in Tuscany, there were many great eateries I feel I should mention. Florence: I Fratellini and Cantinetta dei Verrazzano both are great lunch stops. Siena: Antica Osteria Da Divo is the best "splurge" meal in the book I found, and Osteria la Chiacchera is a great budget meal. Volterra: Ristorante Enoteca del Duca was, as the book said, a good place for truffles (and wild boar).

Worst: Bar il Palio (Siena)
Why: Great views, worth a long sit with a drink in hand, but the food is not worth it. Eat elsewhere, then return for a drink.

Brian Gulledge in Woodbridge, VA USA 02/11/2008

Best: Osteria Baralla Lucca
Why: Best evening meal in Lucca! Friendly owner.

Ian Turner in Oakes Denver, CO USA 01/16/2008

Best: Trattoria Nella
Why: We ate there twice on our trip to Florence. We rang in the New Year at Trattoria Nella. They served a set menu for 80 Euro/person. We started with an appertif, then crostini, crepes, pasta, lentils, steak with black truffle cream sauce, dessert, wine & champagne. It was all delicious and we had a great time.

We also ate there again before we left Florence. We had a simple dinner of soup & pasta. Everything was wonderful. Since we were there in the wintertime we didn't need a reservation for dinner, but we did need a reservation for the NY's Eve dinner.

Susan in Port Orchard, WA USA 01/13/2008

Best: Golden View Open Bar
Why: We visited on our first night arrived in Florence. Even though we didn't make a reservations, they are friendly and the wait was just 15 mins. They gave us welcome drinks as we were waiting and sat us in the jazz area. The view of the old bridge was amazing and luckily we have live jazz that night! The food was great!!! We had the florentine steak, pizza and pasta. They sell the florentine steak Euro 5.5 per 100g, minimum 600g. Recommend to have reservations online. Their website is http://www.goldenviewopenbar.com/

Amy in Oakland, CA USA 01/02/2008

Best: Trattoria Mario's, I Fratellini, and Ristorante Bibo
Why: Mario's has great food at reasonable prices. Had a great conversation with locals. I Fratellini is very good, cheap, and the brothers are great. The food is good at Ristorante Bibo and we got a 20% discount with the RS book.

Worst: Trattoria Za-Za
Why: Food ok, but overpriced and small portions. Worst service we had in two weeks in Italy.

Michael Sherwood in Prescott Valley, AZ USA 10/29/2007

Best: Ristorante la Lampara, Riomaggiore and Osteria la Congrega in Florence
Why: Food was excellent and the service was friendly. Even got to give the waiter a hug in Riomaggiore. Mahyar at Osteria says hi to you Rick. He was fabulous and we even got a picture with him. He shared 4 year old balsalmic vinegar for my strawberries. It was fabulous.

Linda Cherek in White Bear Lake, MN USA 10/19/2007

Best: Trattoria Icce C'e C'e
Why: Just as I imagined...small, perfect atmosphere. GREAT food. This is the kind of place I would love to be a regular. Loved watching Gino at work - wished we could have made it back here for a second meal, but we will search it out next time we are in Florence! There were several restaurants listed in the book that were closed for August but not mentioned as such in the book - not complaining about this as I'm sure some are last minute "hey lets take a holiday" and they shut down. Just a reminder that you might want to inquire ahead of time OR make sure you have a back up if your choice is closed. We did a lot of walking to find places only to find them closed - but entitling ourselves to an extra gelato later to make up for all that walking! (It's all about perspective.)

Worst: Gusto Leo
Why: This is the kind of "tourist" place Rick warned us about - we were so exhausted we just "gave it a try" and regretted it. This is akin to sending someone to Denny's for a "traditional American" meal - worse even! No bread, pasta worse than I could cook for myself - cheap, bland... even the house wine was among the worst I've had anywhere. Do yourself a favor - if you're worn out and not up to finding something in the book, get a slice of pizza somewhere to either tide you over or combine it with a big ole' cup or cone of gelato and call it a day! The way I looked at it is that we had a certain number of meals to enjoy in Italy, and we just flushed one down the toilet - thankfully it was just about the only one we didn't enjoy so there's some comfort in that. :)

Tiphanie in Benoit, MI USA 09/08/2007

Best: Trattoria Nella
Why: The service was friendly, the food and wine were both very good, and the prices reasonable. My girls (jaded teenagers) both wanted to return for another meal. I think they fell in love with Lorenzo.

Doyle Johnson in Medfield, MA USA 08/27/2007

Best: Trattoria Nella
Why: Great, fresh food, nice people. We were one of a few repeat dinner customers.

Kate in Redondo Beach, CA USA 08/11/2007

Best: i fratellini, florence
Why: what a great sandwich shop. freah, tasty, great wine. we went to see these brothers 3 times in 3 days. fantastic!

Paige Woodman in los altos, CA USA 08/11/2007

Best: Trattoria Icche C'e C'e and Osteria del Porcellino
Why: C'e C'e served a delicious and very reasonably priced 11 euro 3-course meal (it was one of the few places in the guidbook where the prices had not gone up since printing). The scene was complete with accordian players and a free tasting of lemoncello when we had to wait a little while for our bill. Osteria del Porcellino had great pasta, especially the ravioli.

Devin in Olympia, WA USA 08/06/2007

Worst: Golden View Open Bar
Why: We asked to be seated in the (cheaper) pizzaria but I think we were duped. We were charged 3 euro each for a cover charge plus 10% service charge. It cost 27 euro for one pizza, one plate of pasta, and one bottle of water. We were not given any bread and our waiter made sure we got out of there as soon as we finished eating. The food was OK but certainly not worth $37. It was our first night in Italy--we learned from that mistake!

Kathy Arcangeli in Oak Ridge, TN USA 08/05/2007

Best: Trattoria Sostanza
Why: This was some of the best food we had in Italy. The minestrone Toscana and the beef and faglioli were excellent. We had the table nearest the kitchen and could watch the cooks cutting thick steaks from a side of beef and grilling them on the kitchen flame grill.

Kathryn Grogman in West Hills, CA USA 07/16/2007

Best: Balducci
Why: Next to Santa Croce - the best pizza in 30 countries and Le Geloterria by Ponte Vecchio - the best gelatto in Italy

Marc in Jersey City, NJ USA 07/14/2007

Best: Trattoria Angiolino and Trattoria Sabatino
Why: T.A. fine food and terrific wait staff. Easy to walk to. Sabatino is worth the walk. A wonderful out of the tourist area trattoria. You will probably be the only English speaking person in the trattoria. Fine food, most expensive item was 6 Euros. Great fun to use phrase book to figure out the menu and talk to the waiter. A great neighborhood eatery filled with locals.

Craig in Salt Lake City, Ut USA 07/11/2007

Best: Ristorante Bibo in Florence
Why: Fabulous food (best in Italy), incredible service and attention and a great discount with Rick's book!!

csw TX USA 06/28/2007

Best: Trattoria Za-Za
Why: This popular restaurant has a covered outdoor patio in its piazza just off the Central Mercado. We came for lunch on a warm, but cloudy day in late May and were easily seated without reservations.

The menu is varied, imaginative and affordable (I actually bought their cookbook). We had antipasti, primi and wine for less than E45 and hung out to people watch in the piazza and enjoy a a group of musicians who played for tips.

The clouds then opened on Florence and the waiters closed the plastic walls on the patio tent and we found ourselves with a happy place to wait out the storm! More wine, please!

Doug M in Portland, OR USA 06/10/2007

Best: Osteria Baralla
Why: A great meal using fresh, local ingredients. If you like game meats and are a bit adventurous, this is the place to go!

Christine G. in Chicago, IL USA 05/31/2007

Best: Trattoria Al Trebbio
Why: Some of the best food I had in all of Italy came from this tiny little ally standout. From the house wine to the main course, everything was great. Had the pasta with rabbit sauce for my primi and Lamb for main. Great place with friendly servers. Lots of locals seemed to eat here.

Rob in Tampa, FL USA 05/23/2007

Best: Trattoria da Sergo
Why: The food was good and unlike other restaurants there, the waitresses were helpful and good to talk to.

Worst: Trattoria Sabatino
Why: Simple menu was right, spagetti and ravioli were about the only pastas and they weren't very helpful or attentive. In addition to the above pastas, I had some overcooked zuchinni and my wife some green 'salad' with only lettuce.

Craig Caldwell in Kaysville, UT USA 05/09/2007

Best: Trattoria Icche Ce Ce
Why: Wonderful service and tasty food. This place is a gem!

Worst: Pizzeria Spadforte
Why: If this is the best pizza available on the Campo then it is pretty sad. The service was actually pretty good plus the loaction is nice. But the pizza was probablly the worst I've ever had in Italy. Not actually bad, just very uninspiring. At this quality level I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

Mike Harry in San Jose, CA USA 04/28/2007

Best: Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori and Icche C'e C'e, Florence
Why: Amazing food, lovely atmosphere, family friendly, and wonderful hosts. The prices were very reasonable and we were made to feel at home. Both places were just what we needed at the end of a long day with three children!

Worst: Nello La Taverna, Siena
Why: As advertised, the place is artsy and has interesting food, but Mauro is the rudest person we have ever met. We live in Europe, speak several languages, and have been to many places, but never have we been treated this way. There was a mix-up in our order and Mauro brought us an extra/unordered plate of pasta. We explained we had ordered just one plate each and he became very upset, first argueing that we were wrong, then taking the plate away in a huff. He quickly came back to the table and yelled at us (so everyone in the full restaurant could hear) that he would no longer speak English to us, only Italian, so that no one would be confused! We would have left except that we had already started eating, so we finished, then waited in a now empty restaurant for him to bring us the check (about a half hour after asking). He even sat with a friend at a nearby table so we could watch him NOT bringing us the check! The real kicker was that he not only charged us for the extra, unordered meal, he also added a bit to each price and listed them all so we could see it (adding about 30 euros more than we should have paid). We never once raised our voices or behaved in a way to make him act this way, and our children were quiet the whole time. We paid the check only to get out of the situation and leave that horrible place without a fight.

Eva in Brussels, Belgium 04/21/2007

Best: Trattoria Mario's in Florence
Why: Friendliness, good value, tasty food!

Rachele Hemphill in Napa, Ca USA 04/12/2007

Best: Trattoria Nella,Golden View Open bar,
Why: loved the hole in the wall feel of Nella-excellent food (spaghetti diavla, panna cotta)left our camera there and it was saved- one brother is all business and the other is gregarious and playful-kind folks! Golden view was just so beutiful with so many nice touches (wine tasters, lemoncello (sp)amazing pizza! Also loved All'Antico Vinaio street wine bar! Owner was incredibly hospitable.

Catherine Harper in Littleton, CO USA 04/01/2007

Best: Osteria la Congrega
Why: Food was wonderful (highly recommend the combination bruschetta appetizer)and beautifully presented. Mahyar was and excellent host - we spent several fun hours there - it was the best we found in Florence.

Janet Caille in Roswell, Ga USA 04/01/2007

Best: I'ce C'e C'e
Why: Everything tastes wonderful and the owner and his wife are so very friendly and helpful. Very pleasant meal. What a lovely find!

Deb in Livingston, NJ USA 03/28/2007

Best: Ombra Della Sera in Volterra
Why: Excellent mushroom pizza and the Cinghiale (Wild Boar) was very good.

Jeff Lucas in Goose Creek, SC USA 03/27/2007

Best: La Congrega Osteria
Why: Friendly service, Excellent food, best steak I've ever had, wonderful wine and olive oil - from the family vineyard, we bought a bottle of each to bring home. We enjoyed talking and visiting with the owner, ate there twice, and on our second dining experience the owner sent a dessert medley to the table with 4 fantastic desserts on the house while we sipped cappuccino and grappa!

Jimmy in Fairhope, AL USA 03/08/2007

Best: Trattoria Nella
Why: Great place - ate there twice. Reasonably priced and great food. House wine is good too!

Kathy Mooney in Ashland, OR USA 02/07/2007

Best: Ristorante Bibo, near Ponte Vecchio, Piazza Santa Felicita 6, Florence
Why: Fabulous food and service, good house wine, the most amazing lemon pasta we'd ever tasted...and the waiter was happy to explain to us exactly how the dish was prepared. The waiter would say, "No, no...you will like this much better...or you will love this..." He really cared about taking care of his diners. It was such a fun experience. The portions were generous and the prices extremely reasonable. The restaurant was full of locals greeted warmly by the staff. (In fact, once a couple came in to show off their new baby and the entire crew dropped everything to surround them and coo over the baby.) It kind of felt like we were part of a big, Italian family. All together, it was a great value, and a lovely, cozy evening, one of our nicest and most romantic in Italy.

Worst: Osteria la Congrega, Florence
Why: Maybe because of all the good reviews, we went in with too high of expectations. But this was the one and only time on our trip to Italy where we felt totally ripped off. Our party consisted of myself, my husband and 2 teenage daughters. Here is the ENTIRE list of our food: 1 bottle of house wine, 2 bottles of water, 1 small soup, 3 small pasta dishes and 2 shared pudding desserts. The portions were the smallest we'd seen in Italy (could have easily fit on a dessert plate) and the food was just OK...nothing especially flavorful or memorable. The bread had a smoky, almost burned taste that my bread-loving daughters wouldn't eat. We were pretty much ignored by the staff throughout the meal and had great difficulty in getting their attention. The restaurant itself was cozy and romantic (although it had black mold growing in a large area near the ceiling). The bill for the evening? Over 111 EUR-(about $148!!!) We even requested the menu to make sure there was no mistake (we discovered in small print that there was a 20% charge...even on top of the $2.00 per person cover charge...because there was some guy playing a guitar and singing for a short while during our meal.) Another American couple beside us (and I mean, really right beside us...the tables were crammed together so tightly that it was difficult to get up without bothering eveyone around you) was also in shock over their 75 EUR (almost $100 bill) as they had received very little to eat, too. (This restaurant seemed far more impressed with itself than we were with it. A TOTAL waste of money.

Terry Miller in Bend, OR USA 01/06/2007