France 2012 Guidebook
Favorite discoveries or tips:
*We ate at a great seafood restaunt in the 11th. It was a bit pricey but very good and we'd recommend it - Gaya. *We stayed at a hotel in Provence that was very nice too - Hotel Chateau des Alpilles. They served very nice meals at the place and were very accomodating. *We ate at a great restaraunt in Burgandy - Ma Cuisine. Really tasty and traditional Burgandy dishes. Nice wine list too.
Micki Turner in Chicago, IL USA 12/17/2011
We love the Burgundy region of France and have found a wonderful place to stay in Montreal, France which is a tiny, historic village close to Avallon , and also close to scenic places like the Burgundy canal, wine villages , etc. It is the Maison Creme Anglaise. Graham and Christine Battye have several rooms that are B and B, a wonderful French cottage , and a huge gite. Their website shows pictures of all. We have stayed there for several years and have stayed in both the french cottage and the gite.The cottage has recently undergone a renovation and addition and will accommodate several families. These accommodations boast many other amenties such as laundry facilities and a pool. The Battye's are wonderful hosts and speak both French and English.I think that you will find the little village of Montreal and the Maison Creme Anglaise are a delightful new discovery. Their website is www.maisoncremeanglaise.com.
Jane Davis in Lebanon, Oh USA 11/23/2011
You may already have this info on your guidebook:
We flew into Geneva and took the train to Chamonix. The train takes as long as 3 to 3.5 hours. Short rides/more connections costs about 33 euro/pp, however, longer rides/one connection costs 67 euro/pp. Anyone arriving into Geneva Airport (or Geneva) and planning to go to Chamonix or other resorts, we recommend booking Mountain Drop-Offs in advance. Cost depends on your destination, but cost from Chamonix to Geneva Airport was 35 euro/pp, and it only took about an hour. http://www.mountaindropoffs.com/en/about_us
There is also another shuttle service called ChamExpress. http://www.chamexpress.com/
Neither has a counter at the airport, so best to call or book online. Only if we had known about these shuttle services beforehand...
Kay Ishii in Renton, WA USA 10/30/2011
Yes, I do have a favorite discovery in the town of Alet Les Bains, France. We found through Trip Advisor a lovely B&B called, Les Marguerites. I think this would be a great addition to your wonderful recommendations in France.
Patricia in Chico, CA USA 10/26/2011
1) The food and service at Le Petit Normand restaurant in Bayeux are fabulous and it's not listed in the 2011 book. Bristol Cafe in Reims (ask for Bruno - he's wonderful and wants to learn English!) 3) Loved the Moet & Chandon tour! 4) Tip: if you don't speak French, ask the front desk agent to make restaurant reservations for you since most restaurants require rsv; and remember, dinner doesn't begin in France until 7:00pm!
Maureen in Tempe, AZ USA 10/22/2011
When hotels and other accomodations in France say that they have Wi-fi, free or otherwise, do not assume that is reaches to your individual room. We found Wi-fi to be weak and unreliable at best. This was even the case in a business conference hotel at Charles de Gaulle! When making Wi-fi calls on our smartphones, we experienced repeated dropped calls due to a poor signal. Sometimes, we could stream live video on our iPad, while at other times it was impossible.
KAL in Issaquah, WA USA 10/15/2011
Loved the restaurant Michel Payaud in Avignon.
The tour of Chateau Pommard winery was terrific.
Marilyn Hawkins in Ashland, OR USA 10/12/2011
We had the most professional, organized, informative tour of the Normandy Beaches with Overlord Tours! Our guide was so well informed and the company has contacts with individual property owners in that region and is able to give their guests access to those properties. It is the best tour we have ever had and worth every euro! Please give it your highest recommendation in your guidebook!
Alice & Gary Nuckols in Fredericksburg, VA USA 10/12/2011
No - wherever we travel, we start with your books and videos. Your taste and ours' in travel and interests always runs pretty much the same. Thank you so much for your travel guides.
Bettsy Wermine in West River, MD USA 10/12/2011
Just back from our second trip to the Loire valley. This trip was to the western end which we reached via Angers vice Tours (as Rick suggests). Angers can be reached via TGV from Charles de Gaulle so you avoid the hassle of Paris. Car rental agencies are in the Angers train station which makes it easy. FYI, Angers is tourist destination all by itself with a stunning chateay/castle with a world famous tapestry, a cathedral, and "left bank" (le douet) to explore. TI is very helpful. We stayed at the Hotel St. Julien on Place Raillement which was great value and which shares the plaza with great restaurants. It is the third stop on the "A" tram line, direction Ardenne from the train station. The drive over to Chinon can be made along the Loire with easy access to Abbey Fontevraud or the Saumur chateau along the way if you wish. Give this a try -- can't believe Rick missed this one!
Bill Z in Southport, NC USA 10/07/2011
Over the years, my husband & I have taken part in 5 Rick Steves tours, and we use the Rick Steves guidebooks regularly for our European travels.
At times we take independent walking tours, and we have just returned from a beautiful hike along the coast of Brittany, in the area of the "Cote de Cornouaille."
In the process, we found an amazingly hospitable "Chambre d'hote" in Quimperle which we would like to recommend. Called the "Domaine de Kervail," it is owned by Francoise & Jean-Ives Delatouche-Herve. This French couple truly practice the art of making their guests feel "at home" in their very comfortable lodgings, and in the evenings the dinner-time conversations are as interesting as the meals are splendid examples of Breton cuisine.
Francoise kept a French/English dictionary on the table, which helped facilitate the lively converstions.
Of all the places we have ever stayed, this was among the very best! We had planned to stay only 2 nights, but instead remained for 5 nights. We found that the location of Quimperle is an excellent center to use for exploring the area.
The web-site for Francoise's facility can be found at www.domaine-de-kervail.com.
Lynn & Jerry, retirees in Raphine, Virginia
Lynn & Jerry in Raphine, VA USA 10/01/2011
We used your guidebook for Italy four years ago prior our vacation and used recommended hotels and tour operators and recommended must see sights as well as some restaurants and were well pleased with your recommendations. We have recommended your guide books to friends that were traveling. Regards, Terry A. Madson
Terry A. Madson in Pearcy, AR USA 09/16/2011
Loved Hotel Slalom in Les Houches, a few km down the road from Chamonix! Stayed there for a few days before doing the Mt Blanc Circuit. Very friendly and helpful owner, Tracy. Might be a good inclusion for your next edition.---Also, highly recommend Sean Potts and his company Fly Chamonix for paragliding. Had a wonderful experience!!
Kate in Sonoma, CA USA 09/16/2011
We used your guidebook for Italy four years ago prior our vacation and used recommended hotels and tour operators and recommended must see sights as well as some restaurants and were well pleased with your recommendations. We have recommended your guide books to friends that were traveling. Regards, Terry A. Madson
Terry A. Madson in Pearcy, AR USA 09/16/2011
The Leonardo DiVinci gardens near Amboise was a last minute decision. If you have children, I think this is a must. It was a very magical place to see some of the drawings of Leonardo constructed to life size.
Donna Fraser in Orlando, Fl USA 09/10/2011
We recently traveled in Normandy and spent one day exploring the Cider Route, where we discovered a family-owned distillery of cider and calvados, the region's famous cider brandy. The grand manor of the family, now in its fifth generation of producing high-quality cider and calvados, is located on the outskirts of Cambremer in the beautiful Pays d'Auge region of Normandy and the owners are ready and willing to provide free tours of the Huet family distillery. We received a very friendly and informative private showing with a detailed explanation (in English), even though we had no reservation and simply just showed up. The tour ended with generous tastings of the family products and a chance to purchase what we'd like to bring home. We'd love to see this excellent experience highlighted in one of your guidebooks. The contact information for the distillery/family is: M. Cyril Marchand-Huet Manoir La Briere des Fontaines - 14 340 Cambremer Tel: +33 (0)2 31 63 01 09 Fax: +33 (0)2 31 63 14 02 Email: calvados.pierre.huet@wanadoo.fr Web: www.calvados-huet.com
Kim Manske in Lakeland, FL USA 08/23/2011
I found your guide book to France very helpful and right on with your recommendations. I just wanted to bring your attention to a great Chambre de hote where I stayed in Alet les Bains as it was not mentioned in your book. It was a wonderful place. Good food, extremely comfortable beds and rooms. All in all a great value for your money. You all should look it up for yourselves.
Caroline Sabin in Houston, Tx USA 08/23/2011
One thing we found was that Post Offices can add time on your cellphone (we used Orange) so you don't have to look for a boutique;helpful for small towns
A Forster in Miami, FL USA 08/21/2011
Rick/Steve, After a sensational motoring down the Petite Saone, despite the drizzly weather (hey, we're from Seattle, what's the issue!?!!?), we MUST substantiate how sensational a barge tour is with Kevin Hartwell on the Barge Nilaya (http://www.bargenilaya.com). Having the Nilaya and Kevin/crew (in this instance, the irrepressible Stef) as your platform to roam the backwaters of France (e.g., Alsace to Lorraine) is the epitome of insight into the mellower side of French society, culture, architecture and cusine. If you want some of the least demanding, most fun and adventuresome breaks from the tourist tradition in France, book a week or two on the Nilaya!
Charles SImenstad in Seattle, WA USA 08/09/2011
Château du Petit Thouars is a historic Loire Valley château and vineyard located 10 minutes away from Chinon. Visit the winery for tours and tastings of their award-winning Cabernet Franc and Chenin wines. English and French is spoken, this is a hidden jewel and a unique Loire Valley experience. http://chateaudupetitthouars.wordpress.com http://www.chateau-du-petit-thouars.com
Gill Baker in Vancouver, BC Canada 08/09/2011
Buy the Paris Museum Pass! The at-least-three-hour time savings due to lines at the Louvre and Musee D'Orsay was worth the price. Saint Chapelle closed 90 minutes early the day we visited, but since we already had a "ticket" we were allowed to visit, and the non-passholders were not. Buy your Eiffel Tower ticket on-line before you go. We went at 10:30 PM and walked right past the huge ticket queue. Stunning to look up and see the tower all lit up. I'd select that time on purpose if I were to go again.
Maureen in Grayslake, il USA 07/18/2011
While visiting Reims in May, we included a night at the historic castle at Sedan, just north of there. It was a fun and inexpensive way to stay in a famous castle. The castle is one of the most massive and historic in Europe, famous for its role in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, which helped set up WWI, by the way. The restaurant was like a Parisian experience at half the price.
Roy in Auburn, AL USA 07/15/2011
We found the Amiens Cathedral to be more magnificent than Notre Dame Paris, and we were just about the only ones there.
Gail Stewart in Issaquah, WA USA 06/20/2011
In Les Eyzies an excellent B&B is Ferme de Tayac. It's a restored monastery farmhouse and a Dutch/English couple run it. http://www.fermedetayac.com
Gary P in Ramona, CA USA 06/20/2011
Autour du Petit Paradis, 5, rue Noel Biret - 8400 Avignon, France Tel. +33 (0)4.90.81.00.42 www.autourdupetitparadis.com; contact@autourdupetitparadis.com Hosts: Sabine & Patrick Eouagnignon-Grote From the moment we arrived, we were made to feel welcome as part of the family by Patrick and Sabine. These wonderful self catering apartments are on a tiny street within walking distance (10-15 minutes) from the Centre Ville train station and minutes from central Avignon. The furnishing are stylish, modern and most attractive. Our large room had a kitchenette. Our hosts not only met our every need (e.g., use of a computer) but anticipated potential obstacles. They gave us excellent recommendations on restaurants and places to visit. We were more than delighted with our stay and the friendliness of the Eouagnignons.
Chuck Goldberg in Happy Valley, OR USA 06/11/2011
Le Puy-en-Velay: An extraordinarily beautiful mid-sized town in the Auvergne region of central France. Few foreign tourists, authentic market experiences, the geography of the town is unique in the world b/c of the 3 'puys' (volcanic cones) on which are built medieval chapels, staues, etc. At night, the monuments are floodlit. Unbelievably atmospheric and real French experience.
Michael Boerm in Waco, TX USA 06/11/2011
Rick recommends b & b's near St. Emilion. In late May I spent two 2 nights at a 4 room b & b that is part of a small winery called Chateau de Crecy. It was about 20 minutes south of St. Emilion. The rooms were modern and spacious, the wines were good, the owners were very friendly and gracious, and they made excellent breakfasts and 4 course dinners for reasonable prices. Before dinner we sat outside surrounded by vineyards and they brought us their wine and served complimentary cheese and sliced meats. I very much enjoyed my stay there and would recommend it to wine and food lovers.
Jim Perschbacher in Atlanta, GA USA 06/04/2011
Domaine O'Vineyards is just a few kilometers from Carcassonne and we are receiving really positive reactions to our winery/vineyard tours and activity packages. http://ovineyards.com/english/visits/ Two visitors just this week have urged me to contact Rick Steves and his coauthors about introducing my family and our project.
Ryan O'Connell in Villemoustaussou, France 05/29/2011
France and Belgium hotel, restaurant and sites for Brittany, Bretagne, Pont Aven, Carnac, Gavrinis, Dinan, Bayeux, Loire Valley, Amboise, Bléré, Chenonceau, Bruges, Brugge, Brussels, Bruxelles
My partner and I traveled for 14 days in France and Belgium in May 2011. Below are some of the best hotels, restaurants and sites encountered during our trip. We’re listing only the things you might not find in a guidebook or on the web--experiences and people we found particularly wonderful.
During our trip US $1 = €1.49. If any of the phone numbers or email address have been stripped from the version you’re reading, please see the full text at http://faculty.washington.edu/swittet/France
Our itinerary: * Arrived Paris for two nights. * Pont Aven, Brittany for four nights. * Dinan, Brittany for two nights. Used as a base to visit Le Mont Saint Michel and Bayeux. * Bruges two nights. * Brussels one night. Flew home from Brussels.
Paris
Our Paris hotel was not memorable, though well-situated near the Marais. And while we had nice meals, there was nothing worth mentioning.
If you haven’t yet visited the Sainte Chappelle, make sure to do so (and pray for small crowds). It is spectacular. We had always avoided it, put off by long lines (they are waiting for the security screening, like at an airport), but this visit we arrived early and were in luck—only had to wait 20 or 30 minutes.
Pont Aven, Bretagne (Brittany)
Two friends from Portland were teaching at the Pont Aven School of Contemporary Art, so we day tripped from that small town. As it was pre-season, the tourist crowds weren’t bad.
We very much enjoyed staying at a B&B run by their British friend, Carol. It’s a cute house with a nice, wild back garden. It’s quiet and a short walk into town.
Roc An Eol 10 rue du Bourgneuf, 29930 PONT-AVEN; +33 (0)298 061926 www.roc-an-eol.com; Owner: Carol Whitwill -- carol@roc-an-eol.com
While in Southern Brittany, if you are at all interested in megalithic monuments, don’t miss the Carnac rock alignments (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnac) and the Carnac museum (www.museedecarnac.com). With a car and GPS, they are easy to visit.
We also went to the carved burial chamber at Gavrinis, which I recommend (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gavrinis). To get there, take a short boat ride from the harbor at Larmor Baden. In high season you may need reservations (02 97 57 19 38), but there were plenty of open seats when we went. Surprizingly the guide on the private island only spoke French, even though they get plenty of international tourists. For a group that was at least 50% non-French-speaking, she kept asking, in French, “Are there any questions? [no response] So it’s all clear?”
Dinan, Bretagne
Dinan is a lovely town, but we chose to stay about 20 minutes away, in a charming old country house. Rick Steves calls it “the place to stay if you have two days and a car.” (We did).
Owner Patrick was a great host and our upstairs rooms were charming and larger than we needed (with an extra loft for sleeping a friend or kids). We were very pleased with our stay.
Manoir de Rigourdaine 22490 Plouër-sur-Rance; Tél. 00 33 (0)2 96 86 89 96 www.hotel-rigourdaine.fr; Owner Patrick VAN VALENBERG: hotel.rigourdaine@wanadoo.fr
From Plouër we visited Mt. St. Michel and Bayeux in one long day. Get to MSM early, before 9 if possible. Note: you do not have to walk up or down the busy, main commercial stretch to reach the site. Consult a guidebook for directions (not difficult).
On the way to Bayeaux from MSM, we stopped in Avranches for lunch at a cute shop and restaurant:
Tartines et decouvertes 4 Rue du docteur Gilbert, Avranches; Tel. 02.33.79.35.80; www.lelittre.com/cadre.asp
Bayeux
The exhibits and film in Bayeux Tapistry Museum (www.tapestry-bayeux.com) are excellent and engaging. The cathedral also is interesting. Bayeux is close to the Normandy beaches.
Warning: in Bayeux, avoid the restaurant next to the cathedral called L’Assiette Normande. It is a tourist trap producing very poor meals. You will do better eating away from the tourist sites, if possible.
Loire Valley, Bléré, France, near Chenonceau
We chose to stay outside the main tourist area of Amboise. Bléré is a small town about 15 minutes from Amboise and Chenonceau. We stayed in a charming, 400 year old mill property with a lovely pond and gardens, and a charming hostess/chef. The common areas of Le Moulin are very comfortable and well-stocked.
Le Moulin du Fief Gentil 3 rue de Culoison - 37150 Bléré; +33 (0)247 30 32 5; +33 (0)664 82 37 18 www.fiefgentil.com;Owner: Florence Heurtebise: florence.heurtebise@wanadoo.fr
We were fortunate when our hostess, Mme. Heurtebise, told us that she would be preparing a meal on our second night, and invited us to join her. We enthusiastically accepted and the evening, shared with Florence, another American couple and a French couple, was one of the high points of our trip. Don’t miss her homemade preserves. They are delicious and it can be fun to guess the secret ingredients; often surprising!
From Bléré we visited three chateaux in one day: arrived early at Chenonceau to beat the crowds (it would have been better if we had arrived by 9), then trekked to Chambord, had a quick lunch, and finally arrived at Chaumont sur Loire to visit the old-style castle and see the famous “garden/art.” We got home in plenty of time for the feast described above.
Bruges, Brugge, Belgium
Bruges was lovely as expected. The interesting, modern B&B where we stayed (a 15 minute walk from the town square, free wifi) was a good deal and included a nice Flemish breakfast. The hostess and owner, Trees, was very friendly, fun and helpful with information of all sorts.
t Walleke B&B Carmersstraat 41; + 32 (0)50 67 66 11 www.bruggebedandbreakfast.be/en/; Owner: Trees Christiaen christiaen.emiel@telenet.be
The three-day Bruges museum pass is a bargain, even if you only have one day to use it. In that case, you can pass it to the folks you meet at breakfast on departure day (for us, a nice couple from Czech Republic).
Brussels, Bruxelles, Bergium
We stayed at the Hotel Bloom, but I would not particularly recommend it. Bloom is rather self-satisfied and hypes itself incessently, but I felt that it faltered a bit in terms of functionality. Question to “spice girl” at reception: “about how much will it cost to take a taxi to the airport?” Blank faced response: “I have no idea.” End of conversation. To be fair, when I called again, later, and spoke to someone else, they had an answer. They also tend to spam customers with unnecessary and redundant emails and annoying follow-up surveys.
Because we stayed in Bloom’s somewhat seedy neighborhood 1+ km from the Grand Place, we happened to enjoy a gastronomic feast at a small restaurant near the hotel. The two female owners have been running this place for 25 years. Our meal was a slight splurge, but was very good value considering the quality and intriguing nature of the food presented, and the overall ambiance and experience. Brussels is famous for great food and this was a remarkable and memorable way to end our trip!
Les Dames Tartine Chausee de Haecht, 58; Tel. 02 218 45 49 (it helps to speak some French); www2.resto.be/lesdamestartine
If you are looking for a decent, inexpensive Chinese lunch, try Chiu Chow City. Lunch specials at €3.80!
Scott in Seattle, WA USA 05/29/2011
Another recommendation: For those with a car and traveling near Beaune, I would suggest the Etap. Yes, it's character-free, but it has some positives. It’s a five-minute ride from Beaune’s center (just follow signs for A-6), making it a cheap and convenient alternative to the expensive hotels in the center. The place is typical Etap: tight and efficient rooms with TV and free wifi going for about 39 Euro/night on weekdays, 43 Euro/night on weekends. The staff speaks passable English. The place was quite clean, and parking lot is secure. A great alternative for drivers wishing to avoid the traffic and cost of Beaune center while having an inexpensive base to explore both Beaune and the Burgundy countryside. There are a couple of family-friendly restaurants and a large supermarket/department store within one mile. Etap Beaune: Avenue Charles de Gaulle 16 Rue du Moulin Noizé, 21200 Beaune, France t: 03 80 24 59 00
Second Recommendation: Etap Colmar. A very good alternative if your local favorites are booked or too pricey. Once again, it’s typical Etap: Parking, tight but serviceable room with free wifi and TV, polite staff speaking decent English, and prices around 39 Euro/night on weekdays, 43 Euro/night on weekends. Only a five-to-seven minute walk from Colmar center. Parking at Etap is 7 Euro, but lot is secure. Might be a good move if the free lot in front of Hotel Primo filled, which I've found usually is in summer. Etap Colmar: 15 Rue Stanislas 68000 Colmar, France t: 08 92 68 09 31
Hope this helps! Keep on traveling! Sincerely, James Ullrich, Seattle, WA
James Ullrich in Seattle, WA USA 05/28/2011
Add Taverne des Ducs, 41, Place Saint-Patrice, Bayeux. tel 02 31 92 09 88 Excellent brasserie with superb service, excellent food, great prices and value. It's a real find!
Robbie in Grady, NH USA 05/08/2011
In Paris, Marais district, an excellent and affordable Italian restaurant is Ristorante Caruso on Rue Turenne, just a block north of Rue St. Antoine.
Mark Adams in Gig Harbor, WA USA 05/06/2011
LOGIS-DE-FRANCE is a great small town hotel chain(for towns too small to be covered in Rick's guidebooks). They have a great ( .com) web site. Hotels are small, individually owned, very clean, reasonably priced, & usually with very good restaurants. Pick up their directory at the first hotel you stay at. I am sure you are all aware that the McDonalds restaurants ( &/or Burger King ) in any town large enough to have one is a great place for free washrooms. We usually buy something just to thank them for the service.
Leslie & Bill Nix in Palatine, IL USA 05/01/2011
The Millau Bridge in Southern France. It's an engineering marvel. Completed in 2005 it is the world's highest. Great visitors center with views.
Judy Johnson in Alexandria, MN USA 04/25/2011
Please add Sainte Denis Basilica as a site to see in Paris. While visiting Paris there was a strike at the Louvre so we went to the Basilica on a whim. It was our favorite site of all in Paris. It was so full of history, I can't believe this was not a top 10 place to see in Paris. If you are into history it is a must see!!
Karen Sokol in Suwanee, GA USA 04/14/2011
Best places to stay in France: We rented a 3 story historic home in Amboise in the Loire Valley. We loved it! It was filled with antiques, wood floors, & charm. The beds were very comfortable & bathrooms updated. We rented "Le Cardinal" through vrbo.com. In Paris, we rented an apt through vrbo.com and were very happy with the apt & the whole transaction. It was in the St Germain area, a short walk to the Louvre & Seine. Make sure you rent a place that has a lot of good reviews that were posted by previous renters. We loved having breakfast & dinner in the apt and we would eat a "plat du jour" lunch at a different cafe every day. This saved a ton of euros for our group of 5
G Sellers in Melbourne , FL USA 04/14/2011
The Chateau Isle-Marie in Picauville is a stunningly beautiful B and B that would make a great romantic 'splurge' for anyone traveling through Normandy. It's a great base for seeing Utah Beach and Ste. Mere Eglise. The B and B itself is amazingly comfortable, and the grounds of the chateau contain a centuries old chapel designed by the same architect who did Versailles.
http://www.islemarie.com
Kristina in Wilton, NY USA 04/10/2011
Collioure, France
Gail in Concord, NH USA 02/15/2011
Celine Viany,somelier,took us on a private tour to the vineyards of Cairanne,Gigondis, and Chateauneuf du Pape in the Cotes du Rhone area.It was a fantastic day and one we will always remember. Celine's tour gave us an intimate look at three wineries and included meeting the owners and winemakers. She guided us through many tastings including a barrel tasting. We appreciated her expert knowledge and passion for wine and food as well as her local knowledge. We stopped for a fabulous lunch at a Bistro called Le Tourne au Verr a Cairanne.The food was delicious and fresh, the ambiance was wonderful and prices were very reasonable. Celine is a joy to be with. She speaks excellent English, she is a safe driver, she drives a comfortable van and she will tailor your wine tour to match your interests.Information about Celine and her tour services is at www.levinalabouche.com
Nancy, Rancho Mirage 1/22/2011
nancy carter in rancho mirage, ca USA 01/22/2011
One month tour by car last summer. Some tips on good things not in RS guidebook: Carnac in Brittany: the megalithic site exceeded expectations. Beynac: Hotel Pontet. Good place at a modest price. Village of Murs in Luberon: Hotel Crillon. Nice setting, outstanding supper. Cap Martin: east of Monaco. Plage de Buse: good spot for a swim and a visit to Corbusier's Cabanon. For those with an interest in modern architecture: Corbusier's Villa Savoye in Poissy is a must see. In RS guidebook: La Route Napoleon: a very long drive. Took us 10 hours from Villefranche-sur-Mer to Chamonix including a long detour due to a road closure in the foothills of the Alps. RS's recommendation to stay somewhere overnight is a good one.
John in Yountville, CA USA 01/20/2011
In Colmar, check out Le Comptoir de Georges...just over the bridge in the old section...1 place des 6 Montagnes Noires. We had a lunch and a dinner there and would make it a first stop for every meal if we could.
Cheryl Rollin in Seattle , WA USA 01/14/2011
Hotel Elysees Union. Fantastic hotel. Great staff, amazing location: 5 min to Arc de Triomphe, 10 min to Eiffel Tower, Great Prices, Free Breakfast with yummy baguettes and a view of the Eiffel Tower. All under $200.
Kacper Lastowiecki in Rolling Meadows, IL USA 12/06/2010
The France rail passes have real problems. They are sold at hefty prices but the French drastically limit the number of seats that pass holders can use. We were unable to go where we wanted to because pass holder seats were not available and an officer of French Railways said this was always a problem. So it might be best not to buy a railpass and pay the fares, reserving flexibility
Jack and Sulie in Olympia, WA USA 11/20/2010
Walking tour of Montmartre gives you a real "inside" look at this interesting part of Paris. We used "Classic Walks". Our guide lives in Montmartre and has a real love for this part of the city, which he shared with us!
Marcia in Spokane, WA USA 10/23/2010
Best discovery - La Sapiniere Hotel at Omaha Beach. Fantastic, clean, well-priced, restful, 1 block from the beach with ocean views from the 2nd floor. Near the American Cemetery and 1 block away from the hill where Americans fought their way into Normandy. The owner, Isabelle Payot, is charming and makes you feel like part of her family. The restaurant serves wonderful food. We ended up at Omaha Beach without reservations because I had booked Hotel du Casino Saint Valery en Caux instead of Hotel du Casino at Vierville Sur Mer. But La Sapiniere took us in for 2 wonderful nights. Rooms are spacious and have lovely balconies. She also has a lovely, restful garden surrounding the property.
Elyse Cole in Carlsbad, CA USA 10/17/2010
We discovered a wonderful B&B in Ste. Mere Eglise this week. Run by Vivian (NC native) & her husband Rodolphe (recent retiree of French Navy) Roger, the B&B was a grain mill converted to a barn sitting yards from the bridge and causeway of the Merderet River where Germans & US paratroopers battled for Ste. Mere-Eglise. A la Bataille de La Fiere is a wonderful place as a base for exploring the Normandy beaches. The owners are delightful and knowledgeable and go out of their way to provide assistance. The breakfast and rooms are fantastic, and their dogs, Viking and Chloe, loveable. Please visit them. Thank you. Carol George
Carol George in Virginia Beach, VA USA 09/28/2010
Hotel Fevery, Brugge, Belgium and Paul the hotel keeper
Chris Mayes in Carson City, NV USA 09/19/2010
Ferme de la Ranconniere, Route d'Arromanches, 14480 Crepon-Creully
Tel. 0231222173
This hotel/restaurant near the D-Day beaches really should be in the guidebook. We can't speak for the hotel, but the restaurant was beautiful, the food was fabulous, the staff was friendly, and everything was reasonably-priced.
Diana Lucio in Alexandria, VA USA 08/16/2010
for our last night in Paris before we flew out we stayed in a hotel on main metro line rather than one close to airport ..we had plenty of time to get to airport and it gave us a few more experiences .it was a little more expensive but well worth it! also, we flew on OPen skies airlines , also a little more expensive( though not as much as other airline's business class ) but it was great to fly business class and arrive rested and also to fly in and out of a smaller airport{ orly}
Mary Greene in St. Simons Island, GA USA 08/13/2010
Hotel de Varenne in Paris. It is a delightful moderately-priced boutique hotel. It's in the 7th arrondisement, a few minutes' walk from the National Assembly, the Rodin Museum, Les Invalides, and the Metro. It's set off from the street, so it's quiet. The rooms are charming and immaculately maintained, as is the whole hotel. The staff is extremely courteous and helpful.
Linda in Garden City, NY USA 08/05/2010
IN Arromanches (Normandy beachhead), we thoroughly enjoyed the reasonably-priced and convenient Hotel Mulberry: Hotel le Mulberry courier@lemulberrry.fr; www.lemulberrry.fr; 6 rue Maurice Lithare – 14117 Arromanches
Jack in Newtown Square, PA USA 07/29/2010
We discovered that the castle in Chinon is closed
Tricia Schneider in Pardeeville, WI USA 07/06/2010
Route de Vin was incredible! We "did" Bennwihr, Riquewihr, Kaysersberg, Ingersheim and Eguisheim. Drove to Trois Chateaux, but had to walk the last bit. I would wear a skirt that day....
Candy Marang in Norton, Oh USA 07/02/2010
Balloon Revolution, Amboise, 0607410978, www.balloonrevolution.com
James Mangin in Red Deer, AB Canada 07/02/2010
We were pleased about the tip to buy the carnet for the buses. The only difficulty we encountered was that not all tabac shops carry them. We found the carnet at the 4th shop.
Marilyn Mueda in South San Francisco, CA USA 06/29/2010
Best place to stay in Provence - Le Mas Du Grande Jonguier. We love the Gypsy Wagon! And the optional dinner that is served in the evenings was the best meal we had in France. The grounds are fascinating, and the collections (especially the hearts!) are amazing. The innkeepers were wonderful. The location was excellent for getting around to all the sights that were recommended.
Marilyn in Cypress, TX USA 06/27/2010
While staying near Amboise at the recommended La Chevalerie B&B, the host recommended the local restaurant, Cheval Rouge. This was our best dining experience during my entire vacation in France. Details: Auberge du Cheval Rouge; Chisseaux; Tel:02-47-23-86-67; I believe the menus ranged from 25-29 Euros and up.
Ginger Bigbie in Gainesville, FL USA 06/26/2010
Of the many Excellent tips from Rick, Get a credit card from the Credit Union. That saved me a bundle in Foreign service fees.
Jim Carr in Ridgecrest, CA USA 06/23/2010
My family and I have stayed twice at the Chateau de Durianne, a bed and breakfast near Puy en Velay in France. I would like to recommend it for your guide. The castle is very tastefully decorated and the room we chose was very comfortable. Mr and Mrs Chambon du Garay are lovely hosts and we really felt as if we were part of their family. I would suggest this accomodation to anyone in the area. The website is http://www.chateaudedurianne.com Thank you! Kristin Lacourrege
Lacourrege, Kristin in Paris, USA 06/22/2010
Discovered wonderful hotel in Dinan: Hotel de la Porte Saint Malo. Monsieur and Madame Charles were incredibly helpful and kind: helped us find a nearby parking spot for our rental car, printed out flight info for our son, recommended restaurants, were understanding when we had to change our reservation. Nicely decorated rooms, lovely garden, attractive dining room, really unusual and careful attention to detail at every level. Even have an area for children in the lobby. Far enough from clock tower so not disturbed at night, only a few blocks from restaurants, shops, cathedral, ramparts. Excellent value for price. Hope to go back some day and wouldn't stay anywhere else. I urge you to check out this hotel for the guidebook. It seemed to us like a really special find and yes, Rick is right that Dinan is lovely. Contact info for the hotel: Hotel de la Porte Saint Malo, 35 rue Saint Malo, Dinan, France; phone 33-2-96-39-19-76.If you want more information, feel free to contact me: Robin Fryer, 510-232-0431 or robinfryer@aol.com
Robin Fryer in El Cerrito, CA USA 06/15/2010
Here a tip for budget travelers wantting to discover Europe without getting stuck between Train stations and city Hostels: www.origin-campervans.com
Origin rents small VW vans (2010 models) fully equiped for 2/3 people. Low hire rates include unlmited mileage. It combines transport, accomodationa nd self catering for the price of a rental car.
This concept already very popular in New Zealand and Australia is new in France.
You'll find all the details on www.origin-campervans.com
Thomas in Paris, France 06/03/2010
Nothing "new" I guess, but I followed your suggestion to buy a carnet. I was able to do this at the Eurostar desk in London on the way over to Paris, and that was very useful and made busses and metro very accessible and easy. Museum pass is a good bargain, too, but I didn't have time to make use of it this trip. Accessing Versaille and other destinations via RER and trains is very easy.
I would recommend stopping in the St. Clothilde (sp?) church or basilica along the Rue St. Domanique. Beautiful little garden and church. I couldn't put enough emphasis on just getting out and meandering in Paris - so easy to find one's way around and so great to have time to "stop and smell the roses" or admire the blooming Chestnut trees (I was there earlier in May.) Cafes are all wonderful for resting with a coffee or snack. I used very little of my "spending money" because I follow your advice on seeking out cafes where locals go. Love Cafe du March and the little sandwich/patisserie place across the street. Very reasonable prices. I am totally, totally in love with Paris and am very anxious to go back and spend more time there and in France.
Judith Beck in Perkasie, PA USA 05/29/2010
Hotel de la Transhumance, St Martin de la Crau, Arles
Tony Green in Sidmouth, UK 05/26/2010
Due to some bad experiences we usually don't veer from Rick's restaurant recommendations but we took a chance and celebrated our wedding anniversary at L'Ameloise in Chagny during our stay in Burgundy. It was the best meal of our life, with service that was discreet and professional, yet very congenial (our waiter actually glowed when we complimented him on the dishes!). The restaurant is not inexpensive, but several small plates of amuse bouche and other treats were served before and in between each course that we were not charged for. I would recommend this to anyone.
http://www.lameloise.fr/
Rebecca in Washington, DC, USA 05/22/2010
A perfect day in Paris begins at the Eiffel Tower, walking the stairs to the second level and enjoying the view. Then a stroll through the Champs du Mar to the Ecole Militaire and on to Rue Cler for lunch at the little boulangerie on the corner of rue Cler and Champ du Mar. Then on to Napoloen's Tomb and Invalides for two hours, and then a stroll through the Rodin sculpture garden next door. Then an art museum after dinner.
Joy Lambert in Vero Beach, FL USA 05/21/2010
I agree with one of the other writers. Visited France in April and was disappointed that Rick (and every other guide book) neglected Nord Pas de Calais. A beautiful historic area. Arras and Lille are lovely cities and the WW1 sites (Vimy Ridge)are very moving.
Wendi VanExan in Ancaster, ON Canada 05/19/2010
I'm backing up Rick's recommendation of learning some key French phrases (on page 927 in France 2010), it really can make a huge difference in our encounters with the French people.
Connie Barnes in Portland, OR USA 05/09/2010
We really enjoyed La Trinquette cafe at the Honfleur inner harbor. We also had a great time at the walled city of St. Malo in Brittany -- probably worth at least a brief mention in the book.
Jay Fluehr in Omaha, NE USA 05/07/2010
Please, please, please do a book-length guide for Normandy. I went over Easter, and the Michelin guide is pretty much all I had--that and Top 10. I missed Rick's historical context and hidden gems! Given how many Americans go there, it seems like a natural!
Tara Laver in Baton Rouge, LA USA 05/04/2010
We ended up at 'Cordes Sur Ciel' which you say to bypass - which really surprised me! You say it is touristy however I disagree - especially as you reccommend Les Baux and Carcassonne which are much more touristy and gimmicky. Cordes sur Ciel was a lovely discovery - we ended up at a WONDERFUL bed and breakfast called The Aurifat, which was itself a magical experience. The view was rolling green hills and we were serenaded by nightingales. We loved the town, which at sunset is golden and a quiet treasure. We had one of our best meals. Please add this to your guidebook - visitors would love it
Sarah Groundwater in Vancouver, BC Canada 04/26/2010
Reims - seems like a party town for Paris on the weekend. We did not have reservations in late March and that was the only place we had difficulty with a hotel. We had to get a double for three of us. Also, drunks were singing/yelling in the streets until 4 am. It was a great place, just not on the weekend if you wanted a full night's sleep.
Ruth Hund in Golden, CO USA 04/25/2010
Rick-Your books are my "bibles" when traveling. For the last two years I have been fortunate enough to have a son working in Paris and living in a large apartment. My wife and I have visited him several times. While there we have done your Paris book-cover to cover. In addition we looked for books of self guided tours of the French wine areas similar to your Paris book. We could not find any. Since then I have talked to several wine experts and they confirm that none exist. You would be my choice for such an undertaking. If you partnered with the authors of "French Wine for Dummies" it would make a great combination. You could integrate their wine and vineyard knowledge with your travel expertese for a great product. Hope you like the idea. Ralph Clark rdmjclark@msn.com
Ralph Clark in Williamsburg, VA USA 04/22/2010
I highly recommend the gite in Normandy. Name: Le Moulin du Temple Managers: Adam and Amy Pressman
We thoroughly enjoyed nearly a week in their country cottage. It is fully equipped - firm mattress, clean linen, equipped kitchen, great fireplace, DVD player. It is close to all D Day beaches sights as well as Mont St Michel. Both Adam and Amy have agreed to me sending you this recommendation.
sandra schonwetter in winnipeg, MB Canada 04/18/2010
I purchased the France 2010 Guidebook and noticed that Picardy isn't included and I'm not sure why. More speficially, we were considering going to Vimy (Lille), Nord-Pas-de-Calais and noticed that it wasn't included. Is there a reason? We have used Rick Steeves guidebooks for other countries - Ireland, Italy - and have loved them but were disappointed not to find some of what we were looking for in the France edition. Our trip is in June and this is one region of France we've not yet visited.
Marie Payette-Falls in West Vancouver, BC Canada 04/15/2010
Rouen hotel Based on the description in the guidebook, we chose Hotel Cardinal in Rouen and got a room on the 4th floor with the view of the Cathedral. What a delight, despite the cold weather in January, we were cozy and very comfortable in a great room. Even had wine glasses on the desk/table and when we set a bottle of wine there, we had a corkscrew the next morning ! We highly recommend the hotel, and spending 2 - 3 days in Rouen, or longer to explore outside the city.
Kay Clarey in Cheverly, MD USA 02/06/2010
Rouen hotel Based on the description in the guidebook, we chose Hotel Cardinal in Rouen and got a room on the 4th floor with the view of the Cathedral. What a delight, despite the cold weather in January, we were cozy and very comfortable in a great room. Even had wine glasses on the desk/table and when we set a bottle of wine there, we had a corkscrew the next morning ! We highly recommend the hotel, and spending 2 - 3 days in Rouen, or longer to explore outside the city.
Kay Clarey in Cheverly, MD USA 02/06/2010
None of the shops selling wine on the Cote de Rhone Wine Trai would ship to the U. S. We have bought wine and had it shipped from Bordeaux, Chaeauneuf de Pape, Burgundy, Montalcino, Montepulciano, so this was a shock; however, we persevered by stuffing a few bottles in our suitcase.
Ed & Rita Reed in Port Aransas, TX USA 01/19/2010
October was not very crowded and the flowers were still plentiful and beautiful
Ed & Rita Reed in Port Aransas, TX USA 01/19/2010
If you buy your ticket to the Conciergerie while you're at Sainte Chappelle, not only do you save money but they sometimes open another door (a little ways down from the main one) and let in anyone who already has their ticket. Saved me about 15 more minutes in line.
Marilyn in Eddy, Oh USA 12/29/2009
Our favorite region of France this year was the Dordogne Region.
Peg Donahue in Palatine, IL USA 12/06/2009
It's a good idea to double-check whether your Paris museum will actually be open. The Pompidou art museum has been closed for more than a week due to a workers' strike. The French gov't feels that the museum's workforce is bloated, and doesn't want to replace every retiring worker with a new one. The union threatens to extend this strike to other Paris museums in December.
Also, the Sewer "museum" was inexplicably closed during regular hours when we stopped by last week -- no notice as to why. As previously noted, the Picasso museum is closed for at least another year.
Dave in Philadelphia, PA USA 12/01/2009
Just returned from spending a week in the Languedoc with several nights in Paris. The southwestern part of France is beautiful and even in November the weather was perfect. Lots of history, great food and wine are at every turn. Found a perfect B & B in a little town of Verzailles with only 400 people and at a very reasonable price. The owner is British and can provide history of the entire area. Albi, which is in the north of this reegion is a must see and a very nice city. The cathedral is stunning and the Latrec museum is worth a visit.
Anthony Ambrose in Loisville, KY USA 11/26/2009
In Paris, please warn people about the scam of someone finding a wedding ring near your feet and exclaiming that it is gold!! Then they want you to buy it from them. It is junk and worthless. Similarly with a cheap ear ring.
Gerald Kilbert in Elk Grove, CA USA 11/20/2009
any recommendations on apartment hotels for a week's stay in January. we need to travel also to Frankfurt from Paris then as well. DO you recommend the train or fly
kevin mccullagh in hingham, ma USA 11/16/2009
Free wheelchairs at Versailles
Marianne Kurtz in Union, KY USA 11/11/2009
Auberge du Manoir--www.aubergedumanoir.com 74 400 Chamonix Mont-Blanc France Tel 33 4 50 53 10 77 Fax 33 4 50 53 36 37 Fantastic hotel--modest prices, location that is absoutely the best. Family owned, recommended the hike from Montevers to Midi on Mont Blanc in the opposite direction that Rick recommends, you always have Mont Blanc in your view...definately a motivator!! Check out this hotel...
kathy in san francisco, ca USA 10/29/2009
I loved the town of Amboise.
Richard Perkins in Pleasant Hill, CA USA 10/29/2009
France was marevelous!
Mike in Rainone, Tx USA 10/29/2009
Vue de la Rance B&B, 5 mins. from port of Dinan, was an excellent value at 70 Euros/night. Gorgeous views of Rance River, very clean, spacious rooms, and a great breakfast of baked goods, French press coffee, juices, etc. Owners were a very helpful, hard working British couple. L'Effet Mer restaurant in Port Lyvet, close by, was also very good and reasonable. Also, the drive from Azay-Le-Rideau to Loches on D84/D17 along the Indre river is very pretty if you have the time and nice weather. Hotel Tourisme in Paris was a very good value and a great location (steps from 3 metro lines, Monoprix and many nice cafes). Rick Steve's guidebook was soooo helpful.
June in Thousand Oaks, CA USA 10/28/2009
On our recent trip to Normandy,France, we stayed in the small town of Arromanche, right on the D-Day beaches. We recommend the Mulberry B&B and their superb restaurant, which is managed by the owners and full every night. It's only about 3 blocks off the main street and deserves a look by you in your next book. Their website is www.lemulberry.fr and their email is courrier@lemulberry.fr We kept going back there for our evening meals and wished we had stayed there instead of Le Chanticleer B&B, which was lacking in facilities and any staff who spoke English, and was a 15-min. walk to the town center.
Jim & Arlene Knutson in Bloomington, MN USA 10/26/2009
My husband and I arrived in Sarlat without reservations. We called our first choice for lodging (one of your top recommended B&B's), and they were full, but they recommended a year-old, recently renovated Chambres et Table d'hotes in the tiny village of Montfort (5 miles from Sarlat) called L'Ombriere. We immediately fell in love with this B&B. It is an 18th century stone home set on a hill overlooking the beautiful village of Montfort. The home is simply decorated with artwork from Italy and France, as well as some of Barbara's personal paintings. The hosts, Andrea and Barbara, moved here from Italy 1 1/2 years ago, and opened their B&B in October of 2008. They both speak English as well as French and Italian. They rent 4 lovely rooms for 72 euros per night, which includes breakfast. You can also choose to dine with them for 25 euros per person, which includes wine. Their home is described as having a unique atmosphere of elegant yet rustic charm, and I couldn't agree more. Our room was immaculate with pine wood floors and doors, a stone wall and original exposed wooden beams. The bathroom has tile floor, exposed wooden beams, a rock wall, and sparkling new bathroom fixtures. Our room was on the top floor and was very spacious. It felt more like a studio apartment than a bedroom. The owners were extremely kind and helpful in educating us on the surrounding regions. Andrea drew us a map by hand each day of a suggested route and sites to visit. The breakfast was served each morning in their lovely dining room and included a different homemade pastry each day as well as yogurt from a local farm, fruit, bread, homemade jams, orange juice and hot beverages. They play classical music in their cozy living room, which is open to guests. They have several books available to enjoy during your stay. Our original plan was to find a gite in the area, so we could cook our own meals to save money. We couldn't find anything we liked as much as L'Ombriere, so we stayed for 8 nights at L'Ombriere. It was extremely difficult to leave this lovely home. It was more than a place to stay; it was a magical experience for us. We spent 4 weeks in France, and we followed the recommendations in your France Guidebook 2009 faithfully. We were not dissappointed. L'Ombriere was the only lodging that was not "Rick Steves recommended", but it should be. I urge you to add this B&B to your France Guidebook. Here is the information on my recommended Chambres et Table d'hotes: L'Ombriere www.lombriere.com Montfort 24200 Vitrac Telephone +33(0)553281138 e-mail: info@lombriere.com
Cindy in West Sacramento, CA USA 10/25/2009
Dinan hotel: Hotel Les Grandes Tours, Dinan. Inexpensive, good quality rooms within the walls of the old city. A plus is the covered off-street parking in a city where parking is tremendously hard to find.
Larry Neal in Warren, PA USA 10/21/2009
Drove the Haut Alps route from Pra-Loup to Nice, great twisty, slow road in a beautiful part of the world. Enjoyed Etretat and the Hotel Dormy was a delightful splurge.
Debra in Delta, BC Canada 10/20/2009
We loved our 1st trip to Paris and your guidance made it even better. Don't bother buying the typical $30 electrical converter in the U.S.-bought a €6 one on Rue Cler that actually worked!
Sherri Campbell in Katy, Tx USA 10/18/2009
Dear Sir
We recently had guests stay with us from Seattle who carried with them, like a bible, your guide to France. They suggested that we get in contact with you to see if there is a way in which we may be mentioned in a future edition.
We are a luxury bed & breakast, located in the Tarn (Midi Pyrenees) just 45 mins north of Carcassonne. Our website is http://www.villademazamet.com
Peter Friend in Mazamet, France 10/16/2009
Drying socks on the ledge in the back of our car. After a day of hanging socks in the bathroom, only to have them still damp, I laid them out on the rear ledge of our small hatchback car, facing the sun the whole day, and they came out toasty-warm and dry. Of course, for this to work well, you must have sun...and we did. The weather was beautiful in northeast France in late September and early October.
Ron in DeWitt, MI USA 10/14/2009
CHATEAU DES ALLUES Maison d'hotes de charme - B&B lieu dit Les Allues F 73250 Saint Pierre d'Albigny www.chateaudesallues.com mail : info@chateaudesallues.com
VANDEVILLE in Saint Pierre d Albigny, 73 France 10/13/2009
Bonjour ! Hi! I would recommend you to visit a brand new hotel 4km from Versailles (20km from Paris) in a charming village called Buc. This accomodation, the "Buc Lounge Hotel" is a 2 star hotel, build 100 years ago and totaly reshaped in a modern design style by the new owners. Close to it : River, lakes and forest... and Versailles castle ! contact : www.bucloungehotel.com (33 (0)1 39 56 34 15)
dulong France 10/10/2009
On our recent trip we needed to break up the 6 hour drive from the Dordogne area to Paris and stayed at a great B and B in Monts sur Guesnes. Proprietor is Glyn Ward of Domaine de Bourgville, www.vie-vienne.com. Glyn is from England. Very quiet renovated to original state building on a large property with a forest. 55 euros including breakfast.
Martha in Calgary, Canada 10/03/2009
My husband and I enjoyed staying at: Chateau Des Arpentis, 37530 Saint-Regle, near Amboise Tel: 02-47-23-00-00. Completely renovated, beautiful!
Phyllis Thomas in Lewes, DE USA 09/29/2009
La Taverne hotel just outside of Albi in the town of Castelnaud de Levi. The rooms are huge and come with either a tub or shower, plasma TV, king-size beds and helpful staff who do not speak much English, but try hard to communicate and make your stay memorable. The prices are a bit higher to reflect the modern rooms (we paid Euro 80 per night). La Gueule du Loup, 38 rue des Arenes in Arles has well-priced Provencal food with both indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the Roman Arena. Closed Sunday and Monday for lunch.
Vickie Sprowls in Lake Nebagamon, WI USA 09/22/2009
In Arles we came across a great restaurant called Le Don Camillo. It's just a five minute walk from the hotel Rodin. The food is fantastic but the best part is the friendly service of its owners, Jean-Marc and Nathalie Rin. Nathalie, in particular, is the consummate hostess and really takes time to help her customers. It was well-priced and we had two of our best meals in France there. The telephone #: 0490499528. The address: Le don Camillo, 7 Avenue de Stalingrad, 13200 Arles. don.camillo-arles@orange.fr.
Mimi Simon in Edmonton, AB Canada 09/18/2009
Versailles booking online - when booking online, you need to create an account - add your address and country. The drop down menu for country does not list USA, so I do not think Americans can book tickets on line.
[Editor's Note: When registering, look for "Etats-Unis," the French words for "United States."]
Mary Van Vooren in Victorville, CA USA 08/20/2009
We found ourselves in Caen with no recommended restaurants listed in the guidebook!We took a chance and tried Le Crep'uscle. It was a little creperie with delicious crepes, galettes, omelettes,and salads for a reasonable price. It is one of the few places open on Sunday nights in Caen. The address is 60, boulevard des Allies.
Lynn Krzyzaniak in Birch Run, MI USA 08/13/2009
Bus from Pontorson will stop at Hotel Vert if you ask the driver (stop is called Beauvoir-Caserne). Have exact change for the Blois excursion bus to the chateaux. Even though they only take cash, they don’t have a lot of change available. The website for the Blois excursion bus schedule is www.TLCinfo.net; click on Ligne 18 or navette chateaux. I was in St. Jean de Luz for their big annual festival (Donibaneko Bestak)—very fun! I found CIC ATMs would give me small bills, either 10s and 20s or just 10s, which were much handier than 50s or 100s. Beware when buying a train ticket from Collioure to Barcelona! I had a layover in Toulouse, so I went ahead and bought a ticket from Collioure to Barcelona for several days in the future. The ticket was over 40 euros and required me taking a very early morning train to Narbonne. When I got to Collioure, the lady in the train station looked at my tickets, basically said I’d been sold the wrong ones, and re-issued tickets for 13 euros that left at a reasonable hour (and gave me a refund). Collioure’s train station doesn’t have any WCs, so don’t arrive too early!
Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 08/11/2009
Self-catering in Dijon, France has much to offer, especially if you stay at "My Home in Dijon." Run by a friendly and generous local woman named Coco, "My Home in Dijon" is wonderfully situated smack-dab in Dijon's historic core, and it's the perfect antidote those holidaymakers who have always balked at`self-catering apartments. Coco's pad is very pretty, featuring all the modern conveniences and, perhaps best of all, provides great value for money. The daily rate is quite reasonable (115 Euros), and Coco provides the lodger with an assortment of breakfast items, some of which include eggs, baguette, ham, coffe, cake, and fruit. A nice touch, indeed. Moreover, Coco provides both pick-up and drop-off at the nearby Dijon train station.
True, the city of Dijon is not featured in Rick Steves' France guidfebnook, but it is a place with much on offer, including fine dining and a tour-worthy historic core. In addition, along with Beaune, Dijon makes for a fine base from which to explore the masny pleasures of rural Burgundy, such as Vezelay and Fontenay Abbey.
Do make a point to look into My Home in Dijon.
David Dillon in Westford, MA USA 08/08/2009
We spent a month in France, Italy, and Switzerland earlier this summer. Here are a few observations: - Based on our experience, I'd switch the recommendations that you should only observe Cordes-sur-Ciel from a distance (do not enter the town) and that you should spend time inside the walls at Carcassonne. We found Cordes to be lovely and uncrowded (maybe we were lucky) while Carcassonne was - to us - over commercialized and largely ruined by 19th century romantic era "renovations". But impressive from the outside. - In late June the weather in the SW of France (Dordogne, Lot River Valley, Languedoc) was absolutely stunning and perfect and there were NO crowds. Lovely. - Definitely rent bikes and ride along the Canal du Midi. - The cave at Font de Gaume was fantastic. The tour guide was just the best and he brought the cave art to life in a way that was truly remarkable.
Bob DenOuden in Eugene, OR USA 08/05/2009
The gardens of Marqueessac near Castelnaud in the Dordogne - Lots of topiary and winding paths, but mostly it was enjoyable for it's views over the river valley and the candle-lit Thursday evenings with live music.
Randy in Mineapolis, MN USA 07/29/2009
I would like you to add the charming B&B, Logis les Remparts, in Bayeux, which I found through recommendations from other users on this website. We absolutely loved it! The price was very reasonable (70 euro/night, includes breakfast), the accommodations were beautiful, and our hosts, Christele and Francois LeCornu, were simply charming. I highly recommend adding this B&B to your guidebook (another couple of Rick Steves fans were there at the same time as us). Contact info: Christèle et François LECORNU - 4, rue Bourbesneur 14400 Bayeux - Normandie - France Phone : (+33) 2 31 92 50 40 - Fax : (+33) 2 72 64 98 32 - Email: info@lecornu.fr - Internet: http://www.lecornu.fr/homeEN.html
I would also like you to add Chateau des Ormeaux near Amboise, which I also found through other users on this website. The trio of owners - Eric, Emmanuel, and Dominique - are so helpful and friendly, we truly felt like family and not just "hotel guests". The chateau is a 19th century chateau that they have lovingly restored after it was vacant for more than 30 years, and their attention to detail in the restoration is just incredible. Our room (the Chambre Rameau) was beautiful and we had a HUGE bathroom. The cost was 130 euro/night (includes breakfast), which is in-line with your other chateau recommendations and was absolutely worth every euro. As an added bonus, their friendly golden retriever, Vic, is an excellent tour guide for the estate - he took us on a lovely, long walk around their vineyard. Contact info: Chateau des Ormeaux - Route de Noizay - D1 - Nazelles - 37530 Amboise (France) - Phone: +33 2 47 23 26 51 - Fax: +33 2 47 23 19 31 - Email: contact@chateaudesormeaux.fr - Website: http://www.chateaudesormeaux.fr/promo_en.php
Lastly, we found La Trattoria at 2, rue Jean Jacques Rousseau in Amboise and were just delighted. The pizzas and salads are delicious and cheap, and they had no problem accommodating my daughter who's a vegetarian. The two of us shared a pizza plus 2 salads and a half-pitcher of wine for about 20 euros -- great meal for a great price!
Colleen Earls in Vancouver, WA USA 07/29/2009
I would like to recommend that you include Catherine D'Antuono's private guided tours of the Luberon. She picked me up at my B & B in Aix and spent 12 hours showing me the finest the Luberon has to offer. She majored in art history and history and is very knowledgeable about the history of the area.
Susan in Toluca Lake, CA USA 07/12/2009
If you are traveling with a car, the best canoe company on the Dordogne River is Canoes Roquegeoffre, Port D'Enveaux 24220 St. Vincent de Cosse (05 53 29 54 20). Their base is near St Vincent de Cosse, on the river just down from Chateau Les Milandes. They offer 28 km and 14 km voyages. The longer voyage starts at Carsac. The shorter one starts below Cenac/Domme and before La Roque Gageac. This is a friendly, family run operation. The best part is that they transport you and the canoes to the starting points, you get to see the best sites on the river, and the pull out/destination point is where your car is parked. Thus, no worries about meeting a particular deadline (other than their 6:00 pm closing time) or waiting to be picked up to be taken back to your car.
Lynn Bird in Boulder, CO USA 07/12/2009
The Pyrenees Mountains aren't even mentioned in the book, nor are nearby cities like Pau and Lourdes (the famous pilgrimage site). Except for the chateau and one of the churches, Lourdes didn't do much for me, but Pau and adjoining Lescar are quite nice cities that aren't overrun with tourists. The 11,000-foot Pyrenees Mountains are spectacular, with ski areas, glaciers, snow-capped craggy peaks, lush forests, a large national park, and rushing streams. The highest waterfall in France (1400 feet) plunges in a torrent straight down the wall of a glacial cirque in terrain that's a cross between Glacier and Yosemite national parks. Charming mountain towns like Gavarnie, Luz-St-Sauveur, and Laruns offer offer plenty of lodging places and restaurants. The rest of your guide is great, but you guys have ignored an entire area of France. With the exception of the Alps, it's by far the most spectacular part of the country. We spent almost a month in southwest France, mostly in the Pyrenees.
Laurence Parent in Wimberley, TX USA 07/12/2009
Beware: At the Tabac de la Sorbonne located on the Place de la Sorbonne, "une grande biere" (a large beer) will cost you about 18 euros. I speak French and we found out the hard way. I do think the waiter was aware of our misconception and took advantage of it. Bill for a small lunch of two beers and two croque madames came to about $50.00 that day.
Jennifer Stanley in Tracy, CA USA 07/09/2009
At Hotel Leveque,we loved the cute elevator and lovely room for 3 on the 4th floor.Rue cler is a joy. Bus 69 made sightseeing so easy with the pass.We prefered the bus to the Metro. Thank you ! Your books are like getting tips from a dear friend who knows just what we like.
Barbara Barnett in Fort Worth, TX USA 06/27/2009
Note to all who wish to visit Chateau Chambord in the Loire. Yes, the parking fee is separate from the Chateau admission, but "head's up"!! Please note on your parking stub--the parking fee is credited back to you if you purchase admission to the chateau. The catch is you MUST present this stub at the time of purchase to get the credit. Luckily we read the stub when we parked and took it in with us; there were people in line who had not done so & were not given the credit; the person at the window was kind enough to ask at time of purchase, but if you didn't have the stub, no credit.
Laura & Dave in Clayton, CA USA 06/26/2009
During my June trip to Paris, I found myself in the unfortunate circumstance of being on crutches. Pre-trip I searched high and low for good guide books that would provide even scant information on accessibility for those with disabilities, and found very little information. People with physical challenges want to travel too, and Paris is so worth the extra planning that goes into a trip if you have mobility challenges. We took your Paris travel book to Paris with us, and the information you provided was wonderful, from here on out we'll use your books for our travel. Here are a few handicap accessibility travel tips I picked up that you may want to consider adding to your books, I know people like me would really appreciate it. 1) Buses vs. Metro: If stairs are a challenge for you, buses may be much easier to access than the metro. The metro has so many steps up and down and few escalators to accommodate crutches, walkers etc.. The buses generally only had one step up, easily navigable with crutches, plus we got to see more of Paris.
2) Airport: Certain airline terminals may have special security clearance stations for those with mobility challenges. We flew American Airlines out of Charles de Gaulle and were directed to a special security queue where we went right through without having to wait in the long lines.
3) Taxi Stands: I was informed by a taxi operator that those with mobility challenges are allowed to go to the front of the line to get a taxi. (Vital information if the lines are long or its rainy.)
4) Cafes/Restaurants/Bistros: Be prepared to navigate stairs (either up or down) if you need to use the restroom. I happened across ONE café in Paris that had restrooms on the same floor as the dining room, all the other places we visited had restrooms up or down and narrow, winding stairs.
Melody in Dallas, TX USA 06/23/2009
Can you please tell me why TOULOUSE is not included in your France guidebook. It is such a beautiful city. Thank you!
Daniel Kolb in Little Egg Harbor, NJ USA 06/21/2009
You *can* get to Chaumont-sur-Loire by public transportation! (Page 313 says you can't, and that's just not so.) I took the train from Amboise to Onzain (3.30 euros one-way, 10 minutes), then walked a level 25 minutes to the Chaumont chateau ticket window. (There are signs at the Onzain train station that point you in the right direction, plus you can see the chateau from the train.) It was easy! (Well, it was at least easier than getting to Burg Eltz--or even Chambord and Cheverny on the Blois excursion bus.) I had already done my biking [to Chenonceau and back], but bikes are free to take on most Loire trains, so you could also take a bike on the train, bike from the station to the ticket office, and then either bike back to the train station or continue on to Blois, Chenonceau, Amboise, etc. I figured this out on my own by looking at the map on p. 302, so I can't believe it's not mentioned as a possibility in the book. (Please consider adding it for the 2010 edition!)
Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 06/16/2009
Our favorite "discovery" from our recent France trip was the Natzweiler-Struthof concentration camp and European Deportation Memorial museum in the Vosgues mountains of Alsace. This attraction gets very little mention in your guidebook, but is very moving, respectful, and is well worth a visit.
Steven Hauser in Atlanta, GA USA 06/13/2009
As a great alternative to hotels twice now I have booked apartments in the central arrondisements of Paris with the New Jersey based firm called Vacation in Paris. They offer over 100 accomodations which you can view in detail on their website www.vacationinparis.com The daily rates are quoted in dollars and range from $125 a day or more. For this reasonable rate you live in the Marais or Beauborg or Mouffetarde or St Germain and live like a local with a full kitchen, often a clothes washer. Excellent for groups of more than two. You make a deposit and payment by pay pal and they mail you the key and email detailed apartment instructions before you leave. Once in Paris they have English speaking help by phone if you have any problem. This experience by passes the hotel hassle and places you squarely in a real neighborhood. They even greet you with a complimentary bottle of wine.
This may be in the guide book but the Galleries Lafayette has a free fashion show every Friday at 3pm. You have to book a reservation on the internet or by phone and arrive with email confirmation by 245pm. It's a thrill for the young women or fahionistas in your crowd. Top it off with the Tiffany dome and roof top view of Paris and then tour the Opera Garnier across the street. Food sucks in the cafeteria so skip that.
We attended 11am Sunday mass at St Eustache near Les Halles and heard the Grand Organ and Choir. Heavenly music. At noon the light breaks through the clerestory and touches your face. After mass you can walk through the Sunday market and pick up a Lebonese lunch, fresh fruit or broiled chicken. Yum!
On Ile St Louis we taste tested Berthillon ice cream and Amorino gelato. Gelato won 5-0 and we had it again across the square from the Pompadou twice! There are stores in St Germain and other locations convenient to tourists
Mary Ruiz in Bradenton, Fl USA 06/11/2009
We read the descriptions of scams and pick pockets and then exactly what was in the book happened. We found it to be actually quite entertaining. Had they been successful, we may have felt differently, but armed with our book, we were prepared
And people do still carry their wallets in their back pockets.
Jody Distad in Denver, CO USA 06/07/2009
While I am ecstatic that the guide includes the area around Puycelsi where I lived for a year 1981-82, your recommendation to avoid Cordes is wrong. Although it is touristy, it has the only examples of lay Gothic architecture and the buildings are gems, worth a visit!
George Lauscher in Pocono Summit, PA USA 06/06/2009
I actually had the 08 book with me (this trip has been in the works for awhile!), but chose to stay at Hotel des Arts in Strasbourg and was pleasantly surprised to find free internet as part of the accom! It wasn't marked in the book but was a great bonus. It's a small room here, but for the price, unbeatable.
Jessica in Kansas City, MO USA 05/24/2009
As an alternative to staying in Vezelay, I suggest staying in tiny St-Pere-sous Vezelay. Less "touristy" and a bit more convenient, this ancient village includes a gothic church, an archaelogical excavation of Roman baths, a small museum, and several restaurants, including one operated by reknowned French chef, Marc Meneau (reservation and deep pockets needed). In addition to several other possible accomodations, there is a bed and breakfast, Val en Sel, at 1 chemin de la Fontaine, 011 33 3 86 33 26 95. The website is valensel.vezelay.free.fr/ and email is valensel@me.com. The owner speaks English and is a warm, welcoming hostess with lots of travel suggestions and maps to share. Breakfast was continental style. The building is hundreds of years old and is primarily decorated in antiques. Parking is free.
Anita in Philadelphia, PA USA 05/18/2009
n Reim, France, we found a terrific bed and breakfast owned by Laudine Larcher. She has two rooms to rent, both with private bathrooms. Our room was larger than a typical European hotel rooms with comfortable, pretty furniture and decorations. The bathroom included both a shower stall and and tub with shower. Everything was clean and perfectly maintained. Madame Larcher served a lovely continental style breakfast. She speaks English and she offered maps, travel suggestions, etc. Free parking was available on the street outside her home. Located at 11 rue Ponsardin, this is only a few blocks from the cathedral. Phone is 011 33 3 26 47 32 50, and email is dllarcher@yahoo.fr. At only 55 euros for two people, this place is a bargain.
Anita in Philadelphia, PA USA 05/18/2009
Gites in France: My family and I recently stayed a week at a holiday gites on a working farm in Provence near Arles. We stayed in a really nice apartment at the Domaine de Laforest located in the countryside outside of Fontvieille. The owner of the gites was a really nice French lady named Sylvie who spoke excellent English which was really good since our French is not so good. The apartment had two bedrooms, as well as, a kitchen to cook up some of the local foods and enjoy the local wines. The location was excellent with Arles, Les Baux, St Remy, Pont du Gard, and other places easily being accessible from there. We even made a 2 ½ hour drive to Nice for a day trip from there. We booked it using a credit card from the www.gites-de-france.com website although you may be able to book it directly through their own website (www.domaine-laforest.com). Final cleaning and linen rentals were extra but nothing ridiculous in cost. We enjoyed our stay at Domaine de Laforest and would definitely stay there again.
Ben in Somewhere in Europe, AE USA 05/15/2009
I captured a woman standing in front of Victor Hugo's house reading your Paris book!
Kathy Wilson in Indialantic, FL USA 05/08/2009
ALWAYS be open to meeting people- even if they seem strange at first! I met my best friend in the world on the funicular in Lyon. At first she seemed 'loud and American' but she is an amazing person and I can't believe that we were once random strangers traveling through France :)
Rebekah in Toronto, ON Canada 05/05/2009
All your recommendations of hotels, sights were spot on! We were a group of 5 women who saw Paris, then flew to Toulouse (daughter in school there), then rented a car taking in Albi, Carcasonne, Avignon (base) and numerous hill towns, ending in Aix en Provence.
Meg in Chicago, IL USA 04/27/2009
La Jacotiere outside Mont St. Michel. The restaurants were all as good as advertised.
Robert C in Norman, OK USA 04/27/2009
Hi, I'd really like to see the guidebook offer just a bit more information for the sleeper train to Rome. While i did want to go 1st class, as you suggest, you just can't do this with a family of 4 (unless you are incredibly wealthy). Please let you readers know that 2nd class is typically noisy, cold and far from the dining car. WE had a rather old couchette from Paris and a much newer one on the way back. Bringing a picnic for dinner and breakfast was completely NECESSARY. Earplugs are also a must. For the old couchette, a blue light stayed on all night and kept my kids up. WE bought tape and paper for it on the way back, but it turned out in now had a more complex switch that let us shut it off. i think a few more sentences on this important rail link in the France/Paris books would be really helpful.
Elizabeth Scala in Austin, TX USA 04/26/2009
Beaune - Le P'tit Paradis is a small but very good restaurant in the town center (25 rue Paradis). Reservations recommended. I hesitate to share the next two for fear of spoiling them, but they are wonderful (designate a driver or take a taxi): Aloxe Corton - Comte Senard has a Table' d Hote - they do an excellent wine lunch of either 4, 6, or 8 wines with traditional Coq a'vin and potatoes dauphinoise. They do a great job of educating you on the region and its wines. http://www.domainesenard.com/english/premiere.html Puligny-Montrachet - La Table d'Oliver Leflaive does an excellent 13-14 wine lunch with a great chicken dish. http://www.olivier-leflaive.com/rubrique.php3?id_rubrique=5
Amy in Houston, TX USA 03/04/2009