Italy 2010Favorite discoveries or tips:Bring an i-pod splitter and two headphones they work on rental audio guides so two can share one and keep pace together. Down load RS tours his Sistine Chapel was better than the Vaticans! Hit the high lights but try to see smaller churches which are very intimate. Work on simple language and phrases fro traveling and eating it is appreciated and fun. Tom & Laura in Denville, NJ USA 11/18/2009 One hotel and one B&B. 1) Venice, Ca' San Marcuola. It was a last minute booking, but excellent choice. We had a large room for 140 euro and a comprehensive breakfast. It is 50 feet from the San Marcuola. vaporetto stop, and a straight 8-minute walk from the station. 2)In Firenze, we stayed at Accademia House B&B, via San Gallo 63 (with air conditioning). Would stay again. A very large room and most helpful host who spoke English. Breakfast is across the street at a cafe - so-so, but got us started. We bought orange juice and kept in the room refrigerator. Two weeks ahead of time Marco made reservations for the Uffizzi and Galleria Accademia. Restaurants: 1) Osteria Casa Vino, on a small side street just off via Roma, near the Accademia Filarmonica and about two blocks toward Castelvecchio from Piazza Bra. One of the best restaurants we came across on the entire trip. 2)VinOlio, San Sanorbi 126, Firenze. Three blocks from San Marco and almost at Piazza Nationale. The best meal we had and at a very reasonable price, 3)Il Cantastorie, via della Condotta, Firenze. Excellent food with old fashion service and at a reasonable price. Discovered Opera at St Marks Anglican Church in Firenze (just over Ponte Trinita) on the south bank of the Arno. Every other night, the company puts on a well known Italian opera, we saw La Boehme. It does it with a pianist and four to 5 opera singers handling the arias. The piano plays the choruses and interim music. The setting is intimate, and acoustics excellent. Price was 24 euro, and it starts at 21:15 and ends at 23:00. They do 6-7 different well-known operas, one every other day, Sept. through Nov. A second, free find, was 7 pm organ vespers at Santa Maria di Ricci on the Corso in Firenze: one hour of varied organ music in an excellent setting for the organ. Finally, gelato: the Gelateria la Dame, San Lorenzo corner of P. dei Mercato Centrale, had some of the best gelato we tasted (outside Steve's recommendation in Verona). We returned four times, including having a frappe at 2.50 euro with up to 3 flavors if we wanted. Richard Raub in Portland, OR USA 11/17/2009 The guidebook to Italy was excellent. We went to Venice, Lake Como, Cinque Terre, Florence and Rome. The Planet Hotel in Maranello is excellent stay for Ferrari fans -5 minute walk to the museum and just beside the factory. Their breakfasts were the best in Italy. 110euros double for a very spacious double room. Mary Bruce in Surrey, BC Canada 11/16/2009 We used the audioguides for Rome and Florence and loved them! Guilotto's in Rome! The best. Susan Beach in Forest Park, IL USA 11/16/2009 We used the audioguides for Rome and Florence and loved them! Guilotto's in Rome! The best. Susan Beach in Forest Park, IL USA 11/16/2009 Rick gives Rimini short shrift. Yes, Rimini has 1500 hotels lining 18 Km of beach, more restaurants than you can shake a stick at, 100+ discos, etc., etc., which cater to the summer crowd. So, yes, I wouldn't consider Rimini in the summer. But off-season is very different. We were there Nov 4-6 2009, had a great hotel on the beach for 55 euro, navigated easily around town by bus, and had good food with wait staff happy for the business -- the food at Il Pesce Innamorato was some of the best seafood anywhere. The Tempio Malatestiana, Augustus arch, and Tiberius bridge are well worth seeing, and the art exhibitions at the Rocca (work from the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston while we were there) and the archaeological museum are extensive and interesting, and the downtown is open and pleasant. As an off-season destination this was great ... and it was a perfect springboard to see San Marino too, which in November was pleasantly empty. Everything else in the Italy 2009 book is valuable and pretty much on the mark (we've enjoyed having it with us), but his one sentence evaluation of Rimini should be reconsidered. Bob Fisher in Ellensburg, WA USA 11/15/2009 We took the bus from Sorrento to Rome arriving at Tiburtina station--which I remember Rick saying in the guidebook that he has never used. This was recommended by a a friend of mine who is from Sorrento. This was a great way to get from Sorrento to Rome without transferring at Naples. It was less expensive-16 euro one way (20 if you buy on the bus) and leaves from train station in Sorrento Taxi from Tibertino to hotels near forum was about 14 euro (2 people-3 small bags). The bus stops midway for coffee and bathroom stop. It is comfortable and clean! Nancy Antin in Minneapolis, MN USA 11/14/2009 If you plan to visit the S'Antimo Abbey in Tuscany and want lunch nearby I can recommend Trattoria Basimondo which is very close to the abbey. The Ribolitta was the best I had on the trip. Not a real friendly staff, but the food is good and inexpensive. Outdoor dining is available. Susan Jennings in Atlanta, USA 11/08/2009 Regarding GPS: Comment about errors in Sorrento earlier is right, and more broadly in Campania. We were misdirected in Agerola on SS 366 road, and again above Furore, again in Ravello, and again by not finding Pompeii correctly. I ended up in a supermercato car park. This was Hertz NeverLost. It is possibly due to blockage of satellite in mountains, or inaccuracies of map, or the switchbacks making the road seem superimposed on itself. We finally realized it is best for the short while to ignore the "where possible, make an authorized U-turn" message, as GPS rediscovers the road a bit further on. Regarding Medici Chapel: This is expensive for what one gets. The collapse of some marble and needed strengthening has much of the Chapel walls hidden behind scaffolding (Oct 2009) and greatly detracts from the gestalt. Also closed an hour earlier the day we went, perhaps a temp change. Restaurants: Way off the beaten track, above Furore, the La Gatta Cenerentola was excellent--best gnocci we found. Dennis T in Atlanta, GA USA 11/05/2009 Hotel Arco d'Tolomei Papa Re Ristorante Michele Dore in Napa, CA USA 11/04/2009 If you go to Perugia and are driving, you can park outside of town (we took the Madonna Alta exit)and take their mini- metro (a monorail) up to the last stop which is the old part of town. Not sure why there isn't much on Perugia- the center of town had great architecture. We were there during the EuroChocolate festival but would like to return when not so crowded. We also used our GPS to drive into Florence and parked across the river at the Piazzele Michelangelo. Free parking for the day and just a 20 minute walk to the Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi. The towns of Spello and Montefalco. Perugina Chocolate factory tour just outside of Perugia in San Sisto. It's free and you can reserve a time in English. Free samples and the tour is actually quite interesting. Address and Phone number:Museo Storico Perugina Perugia Stabilimento Nestl Divisione Prodotti Dolciari Strada Pievaiola San Sisto (PG) (075) 527.66.35 or (075) 527.67.96 Susan Cramer in Lynnwood, WA USA 11/04/2009 This has been listed by a few others but we stayed for 5 nights at the Genius Loci Inn in Umbria. It was amazing! This was my 8th trip to Italy and this was one of the best places we've stayed so far. Easy driving to Perugia, Assisi, Civita Di Bagnoreggio, Florence, etc. Our room overlooked their vineyards as well as the towns of Spello and Montefalco. Michael is a very gracious host eager to provide helpful hints on the area. If you go, Montefalco has a lot of great places to eat right around the main piazza. Can't wait to return. Susan Cramer in Lynnwood, WA USA 11/04/2009 I bought Italy 2009 and cannot find anything on Bologna. Is there a reason why such a major italian city was omitted from the book ? Thanks in advance for your response. Charles Bourgeois in Montreal, QC Canada 10/31/2009 I write to encourage you to add to your list of recommended Rome guides. When my wife and I were planning our trip, we contacted the guides recommended in the book. For various reasons, none could work with us but a couple recommended, among others, Giovanna Terzulli. We engaged her and she guided us for about 1 1/2 days in Rome. She was wonderful. Knowledgeable, prepared, helpful, extremely pleasant to be with. She paid close attention to what we were interested in, and really worked to make the time useful and benefcial to us. She brought us places, and pointed out things that we would not have known to ask about. We think your readers would really benefit from having the chance to work with her. Her email is terzulli@tiscali.it Peter Kierst in Albuquerque, NM USA 10/29/2009 Near Varenna: La Ca'Noeva B&B is a restored 200 year "new" house across from Il Caminetto with a view of Lake Como, living room, 3 bedrooms, 2 modern baths, fully stocked kitchen including washer, espresso maker, homemade jam, fresh eggs, cheese & so on. It was only 60 euros/nite double & includes pick up in Varenna (or just 10 euro taxi). Just steps away from cookery lessons & the best meal we had on our trip. What a jewel in a beautiful place!! Contact through Chef Moreno (owned by his son) www.ilcaminettoonline.com Florence Tours: Wonderful tour of winery, olive press and castle followed by biking through Chianti, lunch at a family restaurant and a van ride up the steep hills you are too stuffed to ride. The entertainment starts with pick up in Florence & goes all day, but with great regard for safety & comfort for only 60 euros/person for everything. www.tuscany-biketours.com Suzanne Chabon in Greensboro, NC USA 10/26/2009 Re "no #116 electric bus" in Rome, from S Redshaw in Clearlake, CA USA 05/27/2009: We found it last week (10/22/09) - it was listed on the bus stop (as shown on the bus map). The thing that may cause confusion: the one we took looked the size of the cabs, not a bus, and the only clue was the white cardboard sign, marked "#116", and laying flat on the dashboard when it pulled up to the sign. Frankly, if a woman had not gotten in first, we may not have 'risked' it! The other point about this: we took the #116 in order to hook up with the #115 (which does look like a bus) at the San Gianicolo Terminal (spelling may be wrong). The #115 runs thru Janiculum Hill - short but interesting ride, which you can use to stop in Trastevere - with great views of Rome from the Piazza at top of hill. HOWEVER, you do not catch the #115 at the same stop you get off the #116 (in San Gianicolo), EVEN THOUGH #115 is shown on that bus stop sign. Thanks to a priest walking by, we found out that you continued out of the Terminal, up around the curving exit to the right, climbed the stairs and the #115 stops right at the top. Worth it. Sage Heger in Holmes Beach, FL USA 10/25/2009 The Residenza Giotto B & B in Florence was a wonderful place to stay. It is right by the Duomo and has amazing views and was clean, bright and quite spacious. Giogio and Sylvia were more than accomodating and helpful. They even helped us print out our E tickets for our returning flight. This would be a great addition to Rick's book on Italy. Also, while we were visiting Vernazza we wished several times that we had had a flashlight with us. When it was dark it was very hard to find our way up steep and uneven steps to get to our room. We talked to other travellers who expressed the same wish! Heidi Fryman in minneapolis, Mn USA 10/21/2009 L'Ospite De Rossi, Verona. One can take Bus #'s 11, 12, 13, 51 from the train station directly to L'Ospite apartments. The bus stops just across the street; saves walking from Piazza Bra! Also, it would be worth mentioning that the only acknowledgment about the apartments is a brass plate next to the door. We had to call Federica to help us when we were standing nearly in front of it. Mikel and Rolly Morrison in Seattle, WA USA 10/20/2009 Restaurant Ai Sconte, Venice--the freshest, tastiest seafood of the entire trip; great service & outdoor setting. Kathy Healy in Manhattan Beach, CA USA 10/17/2009 Umbria! We stayed in S. Christina which is between Gubbio and Assisi and it was Beautiful. You do very little on Umbria and it is a region which you should really do more on. Marietta Thomas in Lake Forest, IL USA 10/15/2009 The book was very useful. Here is a Siena tip - there is a set of 6 escalators just inside Porto Fontebranda - if walking from that direction it saves a lot of climbing. You come out near the Doumo. Ray Kirk in Thorburn , NS Canada 10/12/2009 Hotel Nazionale- via jacopo da levanto 20 Levanto, 19015 AG Italy Phone +39 0187808102 Most wonderful breakfast ever!! Homemade pastries, fruit, cloth tablecloths, espresso if you wanted it, clean rooms, very helpful staff, close to Cinque Terra. Loved it. Diane in Salem, OR USA 10/11/2009 Thanks for the very helpful and specific info about train, bus, and metro travel. This was extremely helpful. Lauren in Bloomington, MN USA 10/11/2009 we stayed at the Costa De Pini in Cervia, not covered in your book, it was really nice in Sept. probably horrible in the summer. It was a very nice resort with lots of amenities. Beth in Lansing, MI USA 10/09/2009 Cafe Sorrento, a B&B on Corso Italia (right above the Hotel del Sol), with a balcony that opened up over the main street -- we spent hours watching the evening promenade there! Laralyn Sasaki in Columbus, OH USA 10/09/2009 We found that many gas stations close between 12:30PM and 3 or 4PM which makes it extremely inconvenient when turning in a rental car at the airport and you need to fillup the tank. We also found that several automated machines did not take U.S. based credit cards (Mag stripe) both at 24 hour gas stations and the Milan train station (automated TrenItalia ticket machines) - we tried multiple cards in the machines and they were denied, but went to the ticket counters, and they worked fine. Dan in Carlsbad, CA USA 10/07/2009 We also loved Hotel Medici in Rome Via Flavia, 96 and Hotel Britannique 20 avenue Victoria 75001, in Paris Margo in Cadegan, Canada 10/07/2009 Portovenere - your description does not do it justice. The site, the history, and the beauty of the village just leave me open-mouthed in awe. Arriving by ferry as you suggested is the best way to understand this outpost of Genoa. Lynda Philipp in Fiddletown, CA USA 10/05/2009 The guidebooks were invaluable in making our 3 week honeymoon in Italy the best trip we've ever had. Bravo! Terri in San Francisco, CA USA 10/04/2009 If driving to Orvieto and using the escalators to reach the top, be aware that they shut them down at 9:00 PM. You must then use the elevator to get back to the parking lot. The location is hard to find. It is located in the alley to the right of Restorante Le Grotto Del Funaro. Which is a wonderful splurge restaurant. You must walk down the alley to see it. Jack & Sieni in Phoenix, Az USA 09/30/2009 Restaurant La Grotta, in Riomaggiore. It was right across the street from La Lampara. The service was really good, great decor and atmosphere, and absolutely great food. Marina in Washington , DC USA 09/30/2009 I needed to travel to Naples from Sorrento for an early flight. I used the Monetti taxi service recommended in the book. It was great. I made a reservation via e-mail, and they happily picked me up at my hotel at 4:15am! (Cash only) Mel in Kirkland, WA USA 09/30/2009 On the day we visited Civita di Bagnoregio in mid-September 2009, Maria was perched just outside her garden, happily directing visitors inside. She was sure to let us know that she was THE Maria from the Rick Steves book. David Mack in Fort Collins, CO USA 09/29/2009 comments about traveling light and carrying your pack george scholz in las vegas, nm USA 09/27/2009 Wine tasting/tour at Argiano winery (www.argiano.net) mear Montalcino for 20 euros each. Ph 0577 839927. Our guide, Alicia, spoke excellent English, and the tour was a real treat. The cellars beneath the lovely Villa date from the 15th century, and the grounds are lovely. Restaurant just outside the walls of Volterra: Da Bado, Borgo San Lazarro 9, phone 0588.86.477. Excellent local trattoria on the S658 Florence-Siena road (but just a SHORT walk down hill outside of the city gates) run by two amiable brothers (with mother in the kitchen). Delicious (awesome!) bistecca alla Fiorentina!!! Pamela Stutts in Virginia Beach, VA USA 09/27/2009 We love Rick Steves and coming from such a young country as USA we found the guide book perfect for every situation. Surfing on your website we found a company that made our vacation in Rome, a memorable one. Miles&Miles toured us yesterday through all the highlights of the city, sharing with us the great history of this city and tips of simple roman life with so much passion and knowledge that we were amazed. This is company that we recommed to Rick Steves to consider for the book. We Love your Book!! Josh & Kathy Josh Daclair in College Station , TX USA 09/18/2009 There is a funicular at Castellammare di Stabia that takes on up to a spectacular view over Naples and the bay. It has limited hours outside of the summer, but is worth stopping on the Circumvesuviana to ride up and back down. Mike in LA, CA USA 09/18/2009 test Finn Rimmer in Toronto, WA USA 09/16/2009 We found a small, delicious restaurant called "Magnolila" on Campo de Fiori in Rome. It had fabulous service, delightful servers, reasonable prices and the best Spaghetti al ragu. We also discovered and went on the "Angels and Demons" tour. It was fascinating and our guide(Michael) certainly educated us on fact, fiction and history! Much fun! Maria Neatherton in Palm Desert, CA USA 09/13/2009 The Italy Guide was a big help. WIll never travel to Europe again with Rick in hand!! Jim in Freedman, MA USA 09/07/2009 Hi! I am a single female traveler learning Italian in New York and just returned from Roma, Catanzaro and Sicily. In Rome (this wasn't in your guidebook) but I thought the Basilica dei SS Ambroio e Carlo on the Via del Corso near Via Delle Croce was spectacular. The Stations of the Cross were wonderful. Also, for people that cannot eat dairy Della Palma Roma at Via Della Maddalena 19/23 has Soya Gelato. The best gelato however is artisinal. It makes a world of difference. I was in Calabria for 2 weeks which isn't in your guidebook but had fun with a local italian and friends on the beach in Montauro and had the best Linguini with white clam sauce in my life on this little beach restaurant serving locals there. It really wouldn't draw only english speaking tourists since no english really is spoken and it is all local italians on the beach and that is all there is to do other than a few day trips, a car is needed since no public transport but it was a great opportunity to see real italians. If you ever want any info on this part of Italy I'd be happy to research it since I have a connection and learning Italian. Mary Catherine Donnelly in Brooklyn, NY USA 09/01/2009 Discovered a little jewel of a B & B near the center of Bologna called Casa Ilaria. The owner, Ilaria, is a gourment cook in the Bolognese style, accomadations are clean & bright and she is very friendly, gracious and helpful. We stayed with her in May of 2008 and have reservations for October 2009. Jody Padgett in Granby, MA USA 08/26/2009 WE ARE BIG FANS OF RICK---WATCH AND RECORD ALL HIS TV SHOW ON PBS. HAVE SEVERAL OF YOUR BOOKS. RECENTLY BOUGHT ITALY 2009 FOR A SEPT TRIP. WAS SURPRISED THERE WAS NOTHING IN ON SAN MARINO. YOUR LITTLE COUNTRY TV SHOW SPARKED OUR INTEREST. TRAVELING BY AUTO---IS THERE PARKING THERE? BEST PLACE TO STAY? ANY POOP? PAUL ROBERTSON in Conroe, TX USA 08/21/2009 Villa Lara Hotel (Nello) Via delle Cartiere 1 84011 Amalfi (SA) 089.8736358 info@villalara.it Wonderful view, wonderful staff, lovely experience. SMALL! Christina Anderson in Hacienda Heights, CA USA 08/19/2009 Well, this is my first time come across and use your guide book. Information provided are so useful, of which made my trip so much easier and nicer. Many thanks! Anita Szeto in Hong Kong, 08/17/2009 The Agriturismo "Masseria Santa Lucia", Agnone, Italy. Emma - the inn keeper - made everyone feel like family. She did all the cooking, jamming, olive oiling, etcetc...the food was fantastic and abundant. A lovely pool, beautiful countryside, and an infrequently visited spot in Italy with lovely small villages on every hill top. A wonderful side trip in Agnone city the bell foundry. Learn the amazing craft and skill involved in making most the bells purchased in Italy by the Catholic Church - and yes, there are bells for sale. Stephen S. Anderson in Hacienda Heights, CA USA 08/16/2009 Assisi Retreat Center For a silent stay next to Assisi this is the best. Here you really get the peace of Assisi. The contact info. is www.AssisiRetreats.org Bruce & Ruth Davis via Ponte Grande 71, Assisi 39.349.499.1293 Lara Becker in San Francisco, Ca USA 07/28/2009 New restaurant on the harbour front in Riomaggiore just opposite and down from La Lanterna new and v stylish, excellent service and in a better location than La Lanterna. Also La Mala in Vernazza now offer 10€ discount per night if you pay in cash . Discovered a beautiful converted Abbey in Moneglia (central for both Cinque Terra and Santa Margherita Ligure) called the Abbadia San Giorgio: perfect for romantic honeymoons and delicious breakfasts. Sazia Samad in London, UK 07/27/2009 i have to agree with Helen Wiant in Cupertino, CA USA 07/08/2009...we also stayed with pietra at Haus Silbernagl in Castelrotto from july 5th through the 9th. Contact info: gsilber@tin.it she is a wonderful hostess, great spacious and clean rooms with mountain or valley balconies, a pool for after hiking relaxing, and a great hearty breakfast (the best yogurt of the trip). pietra recommended a restaurant just up the street called cafe liftstuberl...with amazing veal, pork, and wine. try the spinach dumplings...we had them every night we went and it's just a short walk back to pietra's. one tip. if you are driving a car to the alpe di siusi, you can drive to the parking lot where the cable car leaves instead of taking the shuttle bus to the top. Both cost 13 euros. or you can drive to the top until 9 AM. and park for 13 euros, the same cost as the bus or cable car, and stay as late as you want. after 5 PM you can also drive to the top and park for no cost. in the summer, you still have a few hours to walk the trails, or stay later, eat diner at one of the hotels and enjoy the beautiful night sky. art tipaldi in wilbraham, ma USA 07/23/2009 We continue to thank Rick Steves readers for choosing our corner of paradise in central Umbria and Genius Loci Country Inn. What a wonderful group you are! October is a beautiful month with the vineyards turning yellow and red. Enjoy the beauty at this time of year at LOW SEASON prices. Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna PG, ITALY 07/21/2009 Bar Central in Monterossa. Best coffee on the trip. Jim Jamieson in Eugene, OR USA 07/20/2009 We just returned from a weeks vacation in Rome, Florence and Venice and had an amazing time, thanks to Rick Steves! My husband and I decided that if you do not have his guidebook, you are not bringing your A-game to Europe... We calculated that we saved over 9 hrs waiting in lines during our one week trip due to his advice. Thats an entire day! Our favorite tip was when we visited St. Mark's basilica in Venice. There was over a 2hr wait in the 99 degree blazing sun. We took Rick's advice and checked our admittedly small backpack around the corner, for FREE, and then completely skipped the line with our bag ticket and walked right in to the basilica. Our jaws both dropped in amazement....we couldn't believe it worked! But it did and Rick has never let us down. We also loved all the audio guides that we had dowloaded to our iPod prior to leaving the U.S. they are informative and interesting and make the sights so much more enjoyable. They are a must have for any traveler! Thank you Rick for making our trip the memorable adventure that we had dreamed of! Jennifer in Worcester, MA USA 07/20/2009 Ostaria Simson Castello 6316 30122 Venezia 041 5289929 (in front of Locanda la Corte) Restaurant. Proprietor speaks practically no English, but food it great. Iris Posin in Deerfield Beach, FL USA 07/19/2009 Trattoria Ponte Vecchio - excellent service, friendly staff, best canneloni I've ever tasted, prices seemed norm (and they didn't try to get a tip). Santa Trinita Gellateria, quite friendly, and excellent portions for the min. 2 Euro - Pitti Palace side of Santa Trinita bridge southwest corner. Check out Via Tornabuoni N. 1, a Florence Hotel. 12 rooms and a view on the roof to "die" for. Newly renovated within the past 2 years. Christine Elias in Vancouver, Wa USA 07/17/2009 We found a lovely restaurant in Assisi, called La Lanterna (Via S. Rufino, 39 - 06081) - it was close to our fabulous, Rick Steves recommended hotel, Hotel Ideale, and the food and service were fantastic! Also, we spent several days in Trento - my husband had a meeting there. We thoroughly enjoyed the small town, it's festival, Duomo, the special exhibits on the Council of Trent at the Diocesan Museum, and the Egyptian exhibit at the castle, as well as the archaeological museums and the sparkling winery tours! Unfortunately there is very little on this town in The R.S. Italy Book - I know he can't be everywhere, but maybe, this little gem is worth exploring for a future edition? Marianne Greer in Saskatoon, SK Canada 07/13/2009 Trieste was lovely.I would go there again. Also, I would let folks know how easy it is to get to Lipica, Slovenia from Trieste, without a car, by public bus from Trieste central bus station to Sezana, Slovenia, and then taxi to Lipica (to see the Lipizzaners there). M. Nelson in Federal Way, WA USA 07/09/2009 Sir, please check out this day driver/guide for trips out of Florence or Rome. His name is Thierry and may be reached at reservations@driving-guide-tuscany.com or (039) 335 657-5008. Exceptional quality, drove back an hour each way to return a lost billfold for no charge, trained tour guide, very good English, no topics were out-of-bounds, arranged a fabulous lunch in the Italian countryside for our party of six, and very, very cost effective, excellent equipment, in our case a van. Communicated via email five or six times before we left for our trip, very prompt. Simply fabulous. Dr. Robert Kiner Dr. Robert Kiner in Sioux Falls, SD USA 07/09/2009 Il Latini, Via del Palchetti 6R 055 210916, You can e-mail them at just Il Latini.it and they will replay with confirmation but not quickly. Also loved La Porta in Monticchiello near Pienza, 0578 755163, closed last weeks in June. Jeanette Finlon in Seattle, WA USA 07/09/2009 Il Latini, Via del Palchetti 6R 055 210916, You can e-mail them at just Il Latini.it and they will replay with confirmation but not quickly. Also loved La Porta in Monticchiello near Pienza, 0578 755163, closed last weeks in June. Jeanette Finlon in Seattle, WA USA 07/09/2009 We stayed in a wonderful B&B in Castelrotto called Haus Silbernagl. The room and hotel in general were lovely and so incredibly clean -- we even felt comfortable doing some stretches on the floor after hiking. Rooms were spacious and excellent value with great quality breakfasts. Hostess Petra is always available with advice and just conversation. We highly recommend this for inclusion in your book. Contact info: gsilber@tin.it 0039 0471 706 699 Toni's Pizza has great food (not just pizza) and very very reasonable. Helen Wiant in Cupertino, CA USA 07/08/2009 LAKE GARDA : Took the train from Venice to Lake Garda. took about 90 minutes . We were able to walk from the train station to the hotel . The lake surrounded by mountains is amazing . The train station is Peschiera . Stayed at the Hotel Bell'arrivo , right on the lake . It appears to be a family vacation area . Lots of good reasonably priced restaurants all right outside the door . Took the ferry to Sermione , saw the castle & Roman ruins (Grotto of Cattulus). Hotel Bell'arrivo at Peschiera Del Garda 95 euro per night . After the lake took the train to Verona . Stayed at Hotel Armondo . The hotel was renovated in April of this year , it is all new & modern inside . 95 euro a night when no opera with a very nice breakfast included . 2 minute walk from the Arena . Mike Dempsey in Westminster, Md USA 07/07/2009 The guidebooks for Switzerland and Italy were our constant companions. Rick's audioguides on our Ipod were also a welcome addition to our trip and added a great deal. Barry Blodgett in Cary, IL USA 07/07/2009 Steve, your books on Italy and Rome were INVALUABLE. We carried them everywhere. One of the greatest tips you gave us: Use the Through Eternity tours. The Vatican Museum tour was FANTASTIC BECAUSE OF OUR GUIDE....her name was Marle Robinson. She didn't stop after 4 hours but continued(at our request) for ANOTHER 4 hours! She was an art major so she was so knowledgeable and made the Vatican art literally come alive. It was the best part of our weeks in Italy. Thank you for recommending that tour group. Virginia in Batavia, IL USA 07/01/2009 After reading about it on roninrome.com, we visited Aqueduct Park, a short walk from the Giulio Agricola A-line stop. It was amazing to see this massive aqueduct without any tourists or crowds, just Romans out jogging and cycling - oh, and a fashion photo shoot taking place too. We got slices of pizza on the way from the Metro had a picnic before walking around the aqueduct at sunset. It was one of our favorite parts of Rome. This site may be in the Rome guidebook, but I think it is worth a mention in the Italy book. Jack Martin in Lawrence, KS USA 06/28/2009 On Amalfi Coast in May 2009 -- There were restaurants that set the tables with small cordial glasses in which they'd poured no more than an inch of wine (some not even that much). As teetotallers, we did not order wine or even taste the supposed sample, but were still charged 3 euros each for the drinks. Left a rather bad taste! After first experience, we told servers to remove the wine -- period. Also -- more and more, we have found that museums and churches in Italy want exact amounts in euros for admissions. If ticket sellers have to make even small change, there are frowns and hissy fits (amusing until people start to stare). We actually had a church in Florence turn us away because they could not make change and we wouldn't overpay. What a (beautiful!) country! Deborah in North Port, FL USA 06/27/2009 I returned last Friday June 19th 2009, from a trip to Italy. We used your book for every location we visited and found it invaluable. Thank you for writing such an accurate and in depth guide. I am hoping that you might consider adding a new Bed and Breakfast to your next book. We stayed for two nights in a small town just west of Firenze. It was just outside the village of Margine Cozzile, next door to Montecatini terme. We loved Montecatini and our accomadations at CASA DILETTA were wonderful. Our hostess was Tiziana and she was most hospitable. She was ready with tea and chocolate and served us in the garden with minutes of our arrival and we thoroughly enjoyed our time there. From Montecatini we took the train into Firenze twice. We would certainly stay with tiziana again if given the opportunity and I would be happy to recommend it to any friends who plan to visit Italy. Hopefully you will visit Cada Diletta yourself and see how lovely it is. I should add that I have stayed in a number of Bed and Breakfast homes in the past as well as some very lovely hotels. This experience truly added to our Italy trip. Thank you Pamela Staley Pamela Staley in Gormley, On Canada 06/23/2009 In Venice, we ate at Trattoria Da Sandro and expecially liked it. Reasonable, good service, delicious food and wine. Address is San Polo, 1473 Campiello dei Meloni. Tel -5235964, email - bardasandro@tiscali.it Our favorite stop in Italy was Monterosso. We stayed at the Villa Steno. Can't say enough about how great it is. We had the best meal of the trip at a small family run restaurante at Via Vittorio Emanuale, Restaurante Pizzeria Ely. Tel - 0187/818206. Loved it. Mary in Tucson, AZ USA 06/22/2009 We are in Naples right now, and have used Rick's guidebook to find our way around. While there was no doubt we are out of our comfort zone, the atmosphere in Naples is electric with energy and life. We found no reason for concern. I kept looking for the boogie man, but he never showed up. In fact, we had so many helpful people provide us with direction that we had no trouble at all. Except we were not able to find the pizza duo in Naples where it all started. We found the street, and we walked for a long time, but we were never able to find the correct street for the original pizza place. We did however have some amazing pizza in Naples anyway. Thanks for the self guided tour of Pompeii and all the other tips that worked for us. Keep up the great work! Barbara Piper in Kelowna , BC Canada 06/18/2009 The American Express Office in Florence is actually closed down permanently. Stayed at Hotel Logaitii Serviti in Florence- awesome. Also stayed at Hotel Seittmo Cielo in Sorrento- also awesome. Thanks to you we felt comfortable traveling on our own to italy! Kristi Flax in Rose Hill, KS USA 06/17/2009 We stayed at the most amazing agriturismo in Umbria called Borgo Di Carpiano. It is set in a castle that took 7 years to restore. The owners Ricardo and Marilisa Parisi and their friend Alessandro were the most amazing hosts. We left feeling that we were their very good friends after staying there 3 nights. The location was beautiful and it was one of the nicest places we have ever stayed in anywhere. The food was gourmet. It was very definately the highlight of our trip to Italy. info@borgodicarpiano.com www.borgodicarpiano.com Val Thomson in Edmonton, AB Canada 06/16/2009 Best pizza is in Vico Equense at Pizza a Metro. The crust and cheese(they drain the water out of the cheese, similiar to how it is done in the US) is different then most other pizza places in Italy. Scott Tom in San Ramon, CA USA 06/12/2009 Bologna Louise in Perth, WA Australia 06/11/2009 Driver Aldo Esposito in Sorrento (www.acprofessionaltours.com): extremely knowledgeable about entire area, excellent English, very professional, lots of fun, and cheaper than driver recommended by Rick Steves for the Sorrento area Nancy Pourciau in Appleton, WI USA 06/09/2009 We recommend the addition of a wonderful restaurant two blocks from Pisa Central Train Station. It is Ristorante Lo Schiaccianoci, Via Vespucci, 104/A, 5612 Pisa, Tel 050 210 24. It had a wonderful romantic atmosphere, and was spread over several small rooms in a house with beautiful furnishings. The food was excellent with first courses around 10 Euros and second courses less than 15 euros. The desserts ( four euros) were extraordinary. The proprietor was an older gentleman who spoke English. The "house wine" was a wonderful bottle of Chianti (12 Euros) taken from one of the shelves that spread throughout the restaurant. Pisa Central was a very convenient first or last night stop for travellers flying out of Pisa. It is convenient to the sights in Pisa, but also was a great location for day trips to Cinque Terra and Lucca. Ted and Tricia from Park City, Utah Ted Browne in Park City, UT USA 06/05/2009 We were just in Florence and ate at this outstanding restaurant called Acqua al 2. The sister restaurant is in San Diego, CA. To me, this restaurant is a do not miss. When you go order the pasta sampler for your table. The chefs surprise you and choose 5 varieties of pasta on their menu for you to try. Follow your appetizer with the Blueberry Steak. So amazing!!! Best dining experience I had on my recent trip to Italy. The staff is really helpful and speaks enough English to help you with the menu. House wine is also good. Try to make a reservation or go on the earlier side. Also we traveled to Milan and stayed in an outstanding hotel. Great value for the money. 95 euro for a double including breakfast & taxes. Antica Locanda Leonardo, it's run by a very friendly family. There is English speaking staff. It's a 15 min walk from the Duomo but is right next to the Santa Maria de Grazie church where the Last Supper is. It's right on the tram line to the Duomo and also is close to the Sfroza Castle, the Cadorna metro stop and Malpensa Express. Zoe in Port Washington, NY USA 06/01/2009 I couldn't find generic feedback, so I will submit under Italy, one of the four countries we visited on a whirlwind tour for our Nephew's wedding in Pienza. I had rick's Germany/Austria book along, and it was priceless. We stayed in Bacharach, Rothenburg and Fussen using Rick's suggestions. I can't praise him enough. In Italy we ran into problems because I had not packed the entire book as we had pre-arranged accommodations for the wedding. BIG mistake. In any further travels, Rick Steves guidebooks will be a must. Megan Mangiaracina in South Lake Tahoe, ca USA 06/01/2009 Discovered a wonderful neighborhood trattoria just around the corner from Hotel "The Best" in Milan... Pane Al Pane, Vino Al Vino... Via Tadino, 48 20124 Milano Tel. 02.2046300 This is not your basic tourist stop... its strictly locals... they were friendly, helpful, food was fab... wine was better... and 40 euros for dinner for us both (water, wine (not house), antipasto & 2 primi piatto). Gotta check this out. --- B&B "Le Cannelle" in Fiesole... can't believe this place isn't mentioned... The owner Sara Corsi is a jewel. via A Gramsci 52-54-56 50014 Fiesole 0555978336 --- Think I've fallen for the Aperol Spritz Duane Henderson in Chico, CA USA 05/31/2009 Cassino and Praiano were the absolute highlights of our 14 day trip through Italy. Hotels were modern and spacy and not expensive. In Praiano's Hotel Holiday all rooms (with private balcony) looked out over the Mediteranian. Henny van Dijk in Houston, TX USA 05/31/2009 Villa Marsili - Cortona - Great Hotel! My husband and I just finished a three-week trip through Italy with our Rick Steves‘ book as a constant companion. We visited the Cinque Terre, Lucca, Siena, Rome and Cortona and want to mention a wonderful hotel in Cortona, not currently covered by the 2008 Italy book. The Villa Marsili (about $125 a night (dollars)) is a newer hotel just outside the city gates. It is clean and spacious and the hotel staff is charming, English speaking and helpful. We had a large room with a good-sized private bath, television, mini-bar, air conditioning and available Internet (at a cost). The included breakfast was certainly the best we had in any hotel in this price range. In the evening, complimentary drinks and hors d’oeuvres were served in the rose garden, giving guests a chance to mingle and share travel tips. I really can’t say enough about the staff and their helpfulness. Whether it was getting directions, arranging a cab, or printing out the train schedule, they were always not just friendly, but engaged and charming. Julia and Luana were particularly helpful.
Judy Petersen in Sammamish, WA USA 05/28/2009 Italy 2009, I recommend adding that the red double decker busses are the best way for seeing the sites in Rome for most efficient use of time. You pay one fee per day (I think it was #29 or so) and see the sites getting off and on where you want. I spent two days in Rome and bought the Roma Pass which was not much value to me because I did not visit museums-I bought it for the free buss pass. I wanted to use the elettrico busses 116 and 117 but in two days never say these busses. S Redshaw in Clearlake, CA USA 05/27/2009 Please put the information on every page in LARGE LETTERS that people have to stamp their train tickets to avoid fines. Well maybe not every page but often. We took the train from our cruise ship to Milan met the only unfriendly, unhappy and angry person in all of Italy, the conductor on the train. This woman went through the train and targeted Americans. Charged us Euo 50 apiece. All the locals on the train spant most of the trip giving her a hard time but she wouldn't bend. The locals even took up a collection for one couple who didn't have any EUO. Is that great or what. We paid and decided to not let one unhappy person spoil our trip but it was EUO100 less that we had to spend on the local economy. I did find the info one place in your book about stamping train tickets near the back after we got back. Guess I was absorbing too much of the great stuff to remember. I think a few more times in the book or a stronger reminder would be good We used your guide recommendation, Lorenza Scorti, in Milan. She was the best. Very professional, personable and informed. Made the history and sights come alive. She had good recomendation for lunch. We used her for a full day to the Lake Como area and half day in Milan. She was well worth the money and went out of her way to be a help to us. Even came to the hotel one day to pick us up after we had had problems using the public transportation as there were no signs in English in the Milan Metro stations. This was our first trip in Italy on our own (with Rick Steves' help). We took the train to Rome after our three days in Milan. We loved that too. Locals in both cities were great. So willing to help. We would just ask if a person could speak English and they helped us. Some even went out of their way to take us where we wanted to go! Maybe it was the look of confusion on this slightly old ladies face! My husband and I hadn't been too impressed with Italy on our only other trip, a tour, but using your book and seeing everything on our own made us fall in love with Italy and its people. After this trip in April this year we decided to spend three more days in Rome in Nov. before our transatlantic cruise. Of course your book will be our guide! Thank you Janice Humphrey in Colorado Springs, CO USA 05/26/2009 Bus transportation in Sorrento. There is a blue colored bus which costs one Euro. The ticket is purchased sometimes from the driver but also from a guy with a handful of tickets outside the bus. This is the bus the locals use. Then there is the orange and white buses. You can buy a 2 Euro, 45 minute ticket or a 1.1 Euro, 60 minute ticket. My advice. After getting off the train in Sorrento, go downstairs to the tobacchi and buy a handful of 1.1 Euro tickets. The drivers on the orange and white buses do not sell tickets anymore. In the tobacchi shops or newstand shops downtown, you are not offered the choice of a 1.1 Euro ticket unless you insist on it. Our B&B landlady told us the 2 Euro ticket can be used on any bus in and around Sorrento including Amalfi and Positano. The 1.1 Euro ticket is only good in Sorrentino. We found the train tobacchi shop to be the only reliable place to buy tickets. The shops downtown frequently run out of tickets. Robert Allen in Rapid City, SD USA 05/26/2009 Rick, Recently we stayed at the Hotel Annalena in Florence. It's a great property across from the Boboli Gardens @ Via Romana 34. Reasonable prices, rooms overlooking a lovely garden, breakfast included this is a bargain at 109 euros. Hotel Annalena Via Romana 34 50125 Florence 39055222402 info@hotelannalena.it Gary Swett in Port Ludlow, Wa USA 05/19/2009 We traveled in Northern Italy this past February using Rick's book. Only difficulty with the book was finding accommodations that were open that time of year. So, on our own we found La Locanda di Colombo - via XXV Aprile 12 canc. - Santa Margherita Ligure - Tel.: 0185/293129 - Fax: 0185/291937. The owners, Massimiliano & Raffaella were delightful! The room was clean and contemporary. Best thing was dinner and breakfast at their restaurant adjoining the lodging. Wonderful dinner prepared by French chef and our choice of anything on an extensive menu for breakfast. PLEASE CHECK THE LODGING & RESTAURANT FOR INCLUSION IN YOUR NEXT BOOK!!! Meredith Kupferman in Rancho Murieta, CA USA 05/16/2009 We recently stayed at a bed and breakfast in Lucca, Italy that I'd like for you to at least consider adding next year. It has only been open a year; owned by an Irish couple (the wife's grandmother lived in Lucca). It is inside the walls, and really charming (great views). The host met us at the train station, and gave us a guided tour on the way back to his place. He even came out and shared a glass of wine with us! It has five bedrooms, three baths. It is up on the third floor, and of course, no elevator, but he did carry MY bag up (my husband had to fend for himself!). The name is B and B Evalina, Via Streghi 12, 55100 Lucca, Italy. Website: www.bedandbreakfastevalina.it, and the email is guesthouseevelina@yahoo.it. We paid 60 euros for the night (and my husband got to talk Irish music with Dessie...). Barb DeArmond in Kansas City, MO USA 05/15/2009 This is about Italy...We had a question about bidet towels.....why are they the same thinness as the face towels? My sister accidentally used a bidet towel to wash her face. Oops! Also, in the showers there are these long strings attached to what looks like an outlet. I seem to remember you saying in your books that there are long strings above toilets to help you get up....is this the same for the shower? Gina in Los Angeles, CA USA 05/11/2009 The road from A1 to Volterra was better than the Crete Senese for a Tuscany drive IMHO. Thomas Chamberlin in Salem, OR USA 05/07/2009 For anyone traveling to Italy in mid to late April, pay attention to the yearly Settimana della Cultura, week of culture where state musueums are free or only cost the reservation charge. We loved getting into the Coliseum and museum on the Palentine, the Accademia in Venice just by walking in, and the Uffizi and Accademia in Florence as well as the Borghese Gallery in Rome with only the reservation charge. Lorraine New in Troy, MI USA 05/05/2009 Some restaurants and shops in Rome were converting our credit card slips from euros to dollars at an exchange rate favorable to them. Is this a growing trend? I would like your thoughts on this practice. Thanks. ben caputo in arlington heights, il USA 04/30/2009 I have been to Italy twice and am going back this summer. Italy is without a doubt my favourite country. I almost hate to give you this gem of a hotel, but you should really tell people about Casa della Palma in Rome. It is located at Via dei Sabelli and the telephone number is 39 06 4454264. It is spotlessly clean with huge rooms. Air conditioning, marble bathrooms and prices are soft. On their web site a quad was listed for approximately 150 Euros and I got it for 99 Euros by paying cash. Alessandro and his staff are extremely polite and spend the first 30 minutes going over transportation in Rome, where the bus stops are, how to get metro tickets, where to eat, internet cafe, etc. They also have a nice little courtyard that is very secluded. The only "drawback" last time we were there, was sitting in the courtyard listening to a family party in the next building, and not being invited. I also have the privilege of taking school groups to Europe and I have one tip that I give the students that I think a lot of adult could use. I always tell my students that there will always be a glich in the trip. When that happens you are allowed two minutes to be upset and then its a grand adventure. Those problems you have on a trip are the best stories when you get home. My daughter had her suitcase stolen off the train in Rome. As she was about to cry I said, "The lengths you'll go to to get new clothes." It brightened the day and we still laugh when we recall going to an outdoor market in Florence to buy her new Italian clothes. In closing, thanks for writing wonderful guide books and giving North American audiences (I'm Canadian) a change to experience Europe close to the ground. Erin Sawchuk in Hythe, AB Canada 04/28/2009 i must agree with colin about the beauty and joys of piedmonte. we are avid rick fans, but also look for other areas to use the rick template. we spent 3 nights in Alba at the very comfortable villa la favotita (www.villalafavorita.it). the freshly made breakfasts were great. the rates were reasonable. our room came with a small balcony where we sat each night and looked over alba, la morra, and the alps in the distance and drank roberta's delicious nebbiolo d'alba wine. roberta set up winery tours at fontanafredda to sample their barolos. we traveled to la morra and, at roberta's suggestion, had a wonderful dinner l'osteria del vigniaolo, overlooking the valley. it was so good, that we made reservations for the next night. we has a wonderful lunch in the tiny town of barolo at the locanda della posta di barolo where the owner never stopped pouring his barolo for us. he asked if we had ever tried barolo chinata, the late harvest barolo. when we siad no, he opened a bottle and began pouring that for us. total cost 40 euros for both. i highly recommend a three night stay at roberta's to fully experience the alba life. the hilly vineyards are perfectly manicured and give a drive through tuscany a run for its beauty. we have also travelled to Parma three times and this is another italian location offering a gem of an experience. the city offers great museums shopping, and of course food. eat where the locals eat, the trattoria rigoletto. go outside the city of parma on a castle drive. there are at least 30 around parma. each little town, san secondo, sissa, roccobianca, and the spa town of salsomaggiore terme. visiting these smaller italian towns makes you feel like a local, not a tourist being herded through the sites that attract the huge crowds. thanks rick for giving my wife and i a european travel template we have used since 1999. We travel to blues festivals in europe each year, i cover these festivals for national blues publications, and rick's tips have been useful throughout scandinavia, iceland, france, switzerland, and italy. europe is crazy for american blues and these make great additions to a rick steves adventure. art tipaldi in wilbraham, ma USA 04/28/2009 The bed and breakfast "Romantica Pucci" in Bagnoregio, near Civita, was a wonderful place to stay. Their restaurant served the best food we had in Italy, and their rooms were comfortable and very nice. I would recommend spending the night here, and walking to Civita in the morning, rather than staying in Orvieto. Jeanette Rollinger in Visalia, CA USA 04/27/2009 I just bought the 2009 Italy book and not one mention of Sicily. Larry Stariha in WoodSTOCK, GA USA 04/27/2009 I just bought the 2009 Italy book and not one mention of Sicily. Larry Stariha in WoodSTOCK, GA USA 04/27/2009 In the guidebook - under English Church Services, p. 40 - you only mention San Zulian Church, you don't mention St. George's Anglican Church over in the Dorsoduro - http://www.stgeorgesvenice.com/ - it's a delightful little church with a traditional Anglican/Church of England service and a congregation made up of British and American ex-pats, students, and the occasional tourist. I attended a Morning Prayer service there one Sunday in 2004. The service is at 10:30 AM and generally followed by a coffee hour. The full address is St George's Anglican Church Campo San Vio, Venice - it's between the Accademia and the Guggenheim museums. There's a map on their website. Lydia in Bethesda, MD USA 04/26/2009 Our dog-eared Rick Steves guide book to Italy made our trip enjoyable and easy even for us first time visitors. An unexpected discovery was how helpful the book was when I got home and had to decipher over 800 digital photos and remember the names of what i was looking at. Your book really came in handy to help me remember and look like i really knew what i was talking about on my flickr photo site! Thanks Rick! Luisa Craige-Sherman in Bolton Landing, NY USA 04/19/2009 Using the podcasts for Venice, Florence and Rome was a great idea. We learned so much! Erica Blankenbehler in San Jose, CA USA 04/19/2009 LOVED THE LIME TREE - LONDON TERRIBLE AWFUL OCEANIA HOTEL ROME- NICE PEOPLE BUT AWFUL BREAKFAST THE WORST NOTHING BUT MEDICORE PASTRIES NO REAL FOOD NO CEREAL NO PROTEINS...WHICH MEANT THAT WE HAD TO FIND BREAKFAST OUTSIDE OF HOTEL WHICH DOES NOT MAKE IT A BED AND BFAST. ALSO NO BFAST NOT EVEN COFFEE TILL 8A - WE WE GONE BY 8A AND MOST TOURS START AT 9A OR 930A SO YOU DONT HAVE TIME TO STAY FOR THE AWFUL BFAST ANYWAY NOT A SINGLE DAY W-HOT WATER IN SHOWER OUT OF 4 DAYS LOUD - WE HAD A ROOM FACING INSIDE AND YOU HEARD EVERY CONVERSATON EVERY DOOR CLOSE THE ELEVATOR EVERYTIME IT MOVED AWFUL...IM USUALLY IN SYNC W RICK BUT NOT ON THIS HOTEL ....WOULD NOT GO BACK WOULD NEVER RECOMMEND NANCY in SM, CA USA 04/17/2009 Is there any current information on Sicily- There is none in teh 2009 Italy country guide. Where can I find info on Sicily? This is my 20th trip to europe over the past 30 years and for the past 15 i have never been without on of your guide books in hand. This is making planning this trip difficult and any help you can provide would be appreciated. Jerry Ferlisi in Birmingham, AL USA 04/12/2009 I found the all time best gelato in Italy. In Florence there is Vestri and they have homemade chocolates, coffee and gelato. The chocolate is great but the gelato is the BEST. It is around the corner from Vivoli which is ok compared to Vestri. They are located on 11 Borgo Albizi - it is a must if you love gelato. tel. 39 055 234 0374 Ellen in Anaheim, ca USA 04/11/2009 In Venice, it would be worthwhile to mention the Baroque Concert by Interpreti Veneziani by name. They are the ensemble that plays at the San Vitale Church (Chiesa San Vidal) just north of the Accademia Bridge. Their concerts are absolutely amazing. For more info, their website is: www.interpretiveneziani.com Brent in Saskatchewan, Canada 04/08/2009 We will recommended to you a very good restaurat call, La Nave Rossa - Porto Venere "Fraction Le Grazie" SP/Italy Todine.net in Milano, Lo Italy 04/07/2009 Why do you not add Torino and the Piemonte region in your books? Have you ever experienced going up the hanging elevator in the Mole Antonelliana? What about getting a beautiful view up by the Basilica di Superga as well as taking the funicular from Sassi? The Shroud of Turin? The beautiful baroque buildings built by the Savoys? How about the regeneration of the FIAT plant in Lingotto? And what about the delectable chocolates from the place that brought us Nutella? Don't forget about the many ski towns like Sestriere, Bardonecchia, Sauze de Oulx that were one host locations to the 2006 Winter Olympics! The region is also home to Asti and Barolo, home to a number of wineries and delicious eateries! I cringed when people were reading about the Cinque Terre in your books while in Milano. While nice, I would ask them if they would visit Torino and their was response was "No, it's not covered in this book." I think it's about time you add this beautiful section in your book because many visitors who rely on your books are truly missing out on a city and region that should not be denied! Colin Carandang in Houston, TX USA 04/05/2009 Ristorante Le Tre Sorelle- It's down below the restaurant you recommended (next to the beach). The food was great, especially the bruschetta and the staff very attentive. Positano was just as described. We had a wonderful relaxing day wandering around (actually up and down!) Suzy Pare in Cleveland, OH USA 04/04/2009 Classicatic.com...We booked a dinner and an Opera event in Florence. Enjoyed a delicious five course Italian dinner with wine at a traditional restaurant near Ponte Vecchio then walked about a block to the theater where we enjoyed a four act presentation of LaBoheme. What a magical evening. The meal was terrific in both taste and presentation and the music was very powerful. Because we booked early our reserve seat for the opera was front row center less than ten feet from the actors. This was the finest live show that I have ever experienced. I had never seen or heard anything like it in the past and don't expect to witness anything like it again!! I was totally WOWed!! Wonderful, talented actors!!! Furnacefighter in Philadelphia, PA USA 03/20/2009 UMBRIA FOR EASTER. Get away from the crowds of Rome and Florence for a typical Easter at GENIUS LOCI COUNTRY INN, conveniently located half-way inbetween, only 2 hours from both. Enjoy a relaxed, traditional Easter Sunday brunch and receive a complimentary welcome bottle of our D.O.C.G. wine for stays of 2 nights or more. http://www.geniuslociumbria.com Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna PG, PG Italy 03/05/2009 Bergamo - The upper city is a walled medieval city that has as much charm as Orvieto. La Valletta Hotel is on top of the city and it is lovely. Mario is the owner and he speaks English and bends over backwards to make guests happy. Rooms are absolutely fantastic..upscale place but worth the money. Great break from Milan after a few days. About a 5 minute trolley ride to the old town or 10 min walk. Old City of Bergamo has several lovely restaurants and they all seem to be local favorites. Contact Mario (www.lavallettabergamo.it) JK in Brussels, Belgium 03/04/2009 Email address is ladycharleston@gmail.com I'd rather not give my name, but I would suggest adding this restaurant as one to avoid when traveling in Florence. I have the 2009 Italy guide book. Vivian in Paramus, NJ USA 02/16/2009 Le Marche, Italy - this region is a jem, unspoilled with mass tourism. Urbino is mentioned as a hilltop town of central Italy, however I think it is about time that Le Marche is recognized as its own Region. I humbly write this because I love the series, I grew up in Edmonds - so I am very familiar with Rick Steves, and secondly because of the idyllic La Tavola Marche an intimate Agriturismo & cooking school in Le Marche near Urbania (&Urbino) run by young passionate American Ex-pats. Rustic apartment rentals in 200 year old farmhouse sitting on 500 acres of rolling hills, farmland & truffle rich woods! Ashley in Piobbico, PU Italy 02/14/2009 Just returned from Italy last week. Rick's "Italy 2009" was a GREAT guide book. The tips about going to BORGHESE museum in Rome was especially helpful. It was not an easy location to find, but thanks to Rick's tips in this book. We made it to the museum! yy in San Francisco, CA USA 02/13/2009 Thanks to all our guests who write reviews of Genius Loci Country Inn (www.geniuslociumbria.com) in Bevagna, UMBRIA. We have an EASTER SPECIAL for all of Rick Steves readers: for a stay of three nights, a typical, traditional Umbrian Easter day brunch/feast with all the local specialties. A meal (wine included!!!) which will make dinner unnecessary - a meal to enjoy at leisure with your hosts. Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna PG, Italy 02/11/2009 Rick, I wrote you a personal e-mail in November 2008 about the town of Bergamo we discovered through the eyes of an experienced historian involved in restoration efforts and tourist education there. Your staff member promised to forward it to you. Sadly I never received a reply, which was very disappointing. Bergamo was a real find as the Venetian outpost controlling trade with Europe, with an amazing 3-walled ancient city on the mountaintop.I wanted to introduce this person to you as a possible great asset to a further guide book on "hidden" Italy. Are you interested in more information? Lee in Washington DC, DC USA 01/15/2009 Rick, I wrote you a personal e-mail in November 2008 about the town of Bergamo we discovered through the eyes of an experienced historian involved in restoration efforts and tourist education there. Your staff member promised to forward it to you. Sadly I never received a reply, which was very disappointing. Bergamo was a real find as the Venetian outpost controlling trade with Europe, with an amazing 3-walled ancient city on the mountaintop.I wanted to introduce this person to you as a possible great asset to a further guide book on "hidden" Italy. Are you interested in more information? Lee in Washington DC, DC USA 01/15/2009 Fly Fishing for Michelangelo's Trout in Tuscany and Umbria Your travel book for Italy was extremely helpful, but I found something really great to add that others may enjoy as well. Italy is so much more than the typical tourist can experience but I was one of the lucky ones. Over the Christmas Holiday, while reuniting with my foreign studies student past, I found an old friend who is now a professional fly fishing guide in Umbria. Luca Castellani has a web site at http://www.flyfishing-tuscany-umbria-lazio.com to answer any questions but basically, he will take you to the river (more than 30 km of reserved, private water for fly fishing) and provide all that is needed for a delightful and amazing day. You won't experience anything like this anywhere else on Earth. I recommend a fly fishing day as a side trip to all those traveling these regions. FYI, As a vegetarian, I was happy to learn it's all catch and release. His contact info is: castellaniluca@inwind.it +39 3403499273 http://www.flyfishing-tuscany-umbria-lazio.com Susan Gilbert in St. Petersburg, FL USA 01/09/2009 In Venice I would strongly suggest the review and addition of Hotel La Villeggiatura, calle dei Botteri 1569 Rialto 30125 San Polo Venezia tel 0039 041 5244673 Owner: Francesca Adilardi Website www.lavilleggiatura.it This hotel meets and in my view exceeds the back door philosophy. It is located just slightly off the beaten path; the accommodation offered very good quality and was one of the better values (next to Edi's in Riomaggiorie). This hotel has perhaps 6 rooms, includes a lovely breakfast. Owner Francesca Adilardi and her assistant Barbara were some of the most gracious and helpful we met and spent about 30-40 minutes with us reviewing sights and a great map of Venice. The room was very nice and comfortable. Rate in early July 2008 was 150 Euro including a satisfying breakfast. I would strongly encourage you to consider adding this establishment to your guide book. I am not aware that this hotel is in any other guide other than a past article in the NY Times. Gary Reichanadter in Mooresville, In USA 01/01/2009 Rome: La Nuova Famiglia Via Gaeta, 66 - near Termini Station I was skeptical at first since the menu is in like 5 languages, but I ended up eating there twice. It was all locals except for me and my travel buddy both times we ate there. They have an enticing antipasti bar but we ordered off the menu and were not disappointed. The menu is huge. They have an amazing Minestone Soup, very thin cripy crust pizzas, and we had roasted lamb with potatoes that was wonderful. Things were very reasonably priced as well. It was very crowded at lunch, but if you got there before 12:30 you could get a table right away. Make sure to go to the restroom there because you have to walk halfway through the kitchen to get to it so you get a cool look at whats going on! La Scaletta Degli Artisti Via Santa Maria dell'Anima, 56 06 68801872 Yummy restaurant just behind the west side of Piazza Navona. They have several daily specials and our waiter was awesome. He gave us free limoncello too. Everything was delicious! Venice: Antica Trattoria Bandierette on Barbaria delle Tole Castello 6671 Venezia 041 5220619 www.bandierette.it Really good restaurant that specializes in fish, of course. Went there 3 times. Had a wonderful spaghetti with baby squid and zucchini twice (€10). The baby shrimp with lemon was good (€8 or 9 I think). My travel buddy had the sea bass (€14ish I think) twice and it was also very very good. Reasonably priced for Venice. Florence: Hotel Belletini I was so suprised this place was not listed in the book! Has it been previously because they had Steves family Christmas cards from a few years ago hanging at the reception. This was my favorite accommodation in Italy. The rooms were charming and clean, the location was excellent, and they have free internet for guests. One morning they drew me a smiley heart in my cappucino. I stayed in room 28, the attic room, which is a large quad room, up its own teensy weensy flight of steps. The direct view out the windows wasnt anything, but if you looked out one of the windows you could throw a rock at the Duomo. All the staff was super friendly. And best of all - the price! The had a winter special going on, but I still can't believe we had that quad room with private bath for €50 a night!!! Hotel Belletini Via de Conti 7 055 213561 www.hotelbelletini.com Abby in Tallahassee, FL USA 12/31/2008 In December of 2007 we spent 3 weeks travelling in Italy and stayed in apartments in most places. We found the best accommodations in Atrani, a 10 minute walk from the town of Amalfi. The people who rent the apartment have 3 apartments that overlook the Sea and were exceptionally clean. The apartment even had a washer, internet connection and TV. They were suprised that we were American as they list their accomodations on a UK travel site. The apartment was cleaner than any other we stayed in and well appointed. It even had a little welcome gift pack that consisted of tea, british toast, jam and fresh pastries/cookies for the best bakery in Almafi The owners are really concerned about their guests having a great experience. On our second to last morning, the owners notified us that the following day (our departure day) there was going to be a transportation strike and we may not be able to get to Rome as planned. They assisted us in figuring out our best options. When we decided to depart at the last moment, in pouring rain, they even drove to Almafi to buy us bus tickets and met us at the bus stop. This is the kindest thing that have ever happened to us while travelling. Here is the website and I encourage you to consider staying here if you are going to be in the area. There is an option in the upper right hand corner to change the language to English. http://dolcevitainamalfi.com/ Wendy in Denver, CO USA 12/26/2008 Ostello a Volterra is a fabulous new (4 month old) hostel just outside town (but worth going there if you're on a budget!). Just wanted to make sure you guys include it in your book. 0588/86613 www.ostellovolterra.it info@ostellovolterra.it 15€/night + breakfast (3€) Checkout 7-10am Check-in 5-11pm Breakfast 7:30-9:30am It's very cute, clean, and pretty. The rooms are spacious and the furniture is good (yeah, it's all new, but still); I think it has the best shower of all Italy! There is an elevator and a courtyard and it is attached to an old church. Also they give you your own key to your wardrobe. They even offer to make a hairdressing appt for you and she'll come to the hostel. The people are nice and I hope they get a lot of business! Highly recommended!!! Rachel in Edmonds, WA USA 12/16/2008 Rick, Last November, my wife and I thoroughly enjoyed Italy thanks to your wonderful art Gallery tips. In Florence we were so taken by looking at the exqusite art of Testosterone that we forgot which gallery we viewed his work. I can certainly see why you recommended viewing his work. Respectfully, Mr. Corren Hileman Corren Hileman in Ashland, Or USA 12/01/2008 I found the buses in Rome easy to use. At each bus stop, under the sign for the route #, there is a list of all the stops the bus makes. When I took a bus that I thought I would use again, I would write down the stops in order, so I would know where to catch it. Many of the stops are at common piazzas or locations so you can figure out which bus you want just by reading the signs. I never did find a map of the system, however. I also found the buses in Florence easy to use. They are not as necessary as in Rome, but they still come in handy if you are tired from walking or want to reserve some energy for seeing the sights rather than walking to them. I did get a map at TI. At least two of the museums in Florence required exact change (and no credit cards). In one case I had to ask around for change of a larger bill - or else I would have paid substantially more than the fee. People should be aware of this. Marilyn Smith in Seattle, WA USA 11/17/2008 My daughter and myself, we had a worderful time in Italy, we followed step by step your recommendations. Thank you Mabel Luna in GLENDALE, CA USA 11/11/2008 I echo the disappointment with the lack of information on the Emilia-Romagna region. We used RS guides for our last trip to Italy and looked forward to lodging recommendations for Parma, Bologna - nothing! Jim in Milwaukee, WI USA 11/04/2008 Great B&B in Amalfi: http://www.locandacostadamalfi.it/ Great B&B in Panzano in Chianti: http://www.ilcasello.it/en/podere_il_casello.htm Hugh Pratt in Tacoma, WA USA 10/31/2008 A tour with Tuscany Tours with Paola Migliorini, as recommended in the guide for Florence , was well worth it. Her husband did Pisa and Lucca, also well worth it. James Thomassen in Austin, TX USA 10/26/2008 Restrooms in trains and restaurants in Italy often lack soap and toilet paper. Be sure to bring your own hand disinfectant and tissue just in case. Taxis in Naples now charge 10 euros for even a short mid-day trip, not 5 euros as stated in your book. Chris Peter in El Cajon, CA USA 10/26/2008 Yes! we drove to Umbria and stayed at an amazing country inn called Genius Loci: http://www.geniuslociumbria.com/ in Bevagna. I hope that you will consider this accommodation for your travel guide. It is gorgeous, embodies the Italian countryside, and forces each guest to relax and embrace good wine/good food. The Inn Keeper, Mike Tacconi, speaks perfect English and interacts with the guests as little or as much as wanted. The property overlooks a vineyard and is close to a number of historic medieval and Roman towns. From Bevagna we traveled to Assisi, took a driving tour of Tuscany, and has a fabulous truffle infused dinner at Cocorone in Montefalco. Mike and his mother, Mary, serve a complimentary breakfast every morning and I am still dreaming of the croissants. I cannot recommend Genius Loci enough and really encourage you to spend a few days/night there. Karen & Jon Roses in Boston, MA USA 10/25/2008 We loved the Podcasts for the Grand Canal in Venice and Colossuem in Rome. They were great additions to our experience and I wish had downloaded more. Cheryl in Vacaville, CA USA 10/20/2008 In Cinque Terre, we thought the shuttle buses ran to and from the five towns. Wrong and probably others misunderstood also. Kathy in Chandler, TX USA 10/18/2008
Rory Scanlon in American Fork, UT USA 10/18/2008 Beware the ATM in Manarola in Cinque Terre. It completed the transaction and charged our bank account, but did not give us any euros! We called our bank right away, but they said their contract with Visa does not allow them to deny the charge. We then went to the bank of the same name (La Spezia) in Vernazza the next day, and the bank clerk said , "it happens all the time." She also said when the error is discovered they would credit back our account. Well, it has been a month and they just notified our bank that their accounts balanced so we are out 250 euros ($357) - they are cheats! If using an ATM in Cinque Terre, I would recommend going during banking hours and at a bank location in case you encounter such a problem. Karen in Fort Collins, CO USA 10/11/2008 Restaurant in Kastelruth (Castelrotto), Italy - We found a great restaurant in Kastelruth called Saalstuben at Via Wolkenstein Str #12. The food was very good, and they have a menu of the day that was very reasonable -everything from salad or soup to entree & dessert. Also we enjoyed the salad with tuna another night. It was very popular with locals too. Nancy in Fort Collins, CO USA 10/11/2008 Cefalu and Siracusa in Sicily were great. cindy in fox island, wa USA 10/10/2008
Brad Henshaw in Seattle, WA USA 10/05/2008 The Oasi Hotel in Levanto had just opened this July. The owners Sylvia and her husband have perfected every detail. We loved this hotel, more like a B & B. I know Rick is a purist as far as the Chinque Terre, but we much preferred staying here and training into the Chinque Terre. Spent a day on the Levanto beach. Janet Zegler in West Chicago, IL USA 10/01/2008 In Florence, in September 2008, I stayed at two hotels: Orto de Medici, on the north side of the center, and Albergotto, near Ponte Vecchio. Both were very nice hotels, the Albergotto being superior as far as modern updated amenities in the room. Importantly, both had wonderful personnel at the front desk, who were all very helpful and nice. Orto has a muralled dining room, with big, light doors leading to an outdoor dining area, and painted ceilings in the lounge and meeting room. Both are on streets that are busy enough at night so that a single woman traveller doesn't feel anxious about isolated streets. jude mayer in shabbona, il USA 09/27/2008 The RS podcasts for Italy were terrific. Kathy in Auburn, MI USA 09/25/2008 If you have euros left over, the best place to exhange them to avoid high fees, the airport robbed us, we were in a hurry and hadn't had any coffee, Florence, Italy Rene Pellissier in Merced, Ca USA 09/24/2008 1) Please watch the very enjoyable Romantic Comedy "Only You" starring Robert Downey Jr. & Marisa Tomei. This movie is not only much fun, but it shows off Italy, specifically Venice, Rome, Tuscanny and the Amalfi coast better than any movie you recommended in your very fine giudebook on Italy. 2) We were forced to use the bus from Assisi to Siena because we traveled on Sunday. The bus was less than 1/3 full and provided much more seating comfort than our previous train trips (first class) and provided, we think, a better look at the countryside. We decided to take the bus from Siena to Rome and could not believe our good fortune. Not only did we by-pass a stop or two enroute, we traveled in more comfort in a huge new bus with about 5 other people at a cheaper cost WITHOUT any stops until we were in ROME! 3) Saving money on food in Italy (or elsewhere) is easy. We nearly always took our main meal in the early afternoon, before the restaurants close at 2:30 PM (or so) and then dined picnic style on fruit, crackers, cheese,et al per Rick at night. Waiting to eat until 7:30 PM and then succuming to an expensive, heavy meal before retiring did not appeal. A grand Italian style evening meal once in a while served us well, and again, saved much money. Bruce Kennedy in Redmond, Wa USA 09/22/2008 Berggasthof Plorr,Ritten/Renon South Tyrol, great little family run Hotel,excellent value,37.00euro each,half board super dinners and breakfast, (the meals alone are worth 37.00e)room with en-suit and balcony,elevation 1380M,fantastic views of dolomites and the large town of Bolzano in the valley. If you like hiking trails and walks,this is the place.This hotel fills-up quickly so make reservations,we were there August 2008,they were fully booked for Sept/Oct,great weather.You must include this hotel in your book on northern Italy Rick. Must have your own transportation.Good website,www.ploerr.com PS.Had a Rick Steves book in their library John&Rosalind Calder in Sidney, BC Canada 09/20/2008 We stayed at the Villa de Fiori in Pistoia Italy, which is the most gorgeous, quaint, ancient Villa with all the most wonderful amenities you can imagine. It is less than 30 minutes from Florence, near Vinci, in the heart of Tuscany. They have a glorious spot on a hillside overlooking the city, far enough away to be pristine and quiet, a beautiful pool, olive grove, vineyard, incredible. The staff are extraordinarly helpful and hospitible, doing everything they can to accomodate. The rooms are exquisite, maintaining their authentic ancient flavor while offering modern and generous amenities. They also offer a free wonderful breakfast, home cooked, and will cook a dinner of authentic tuscan fare any night you wish for a price. Best place we have ever stayed in Europe. IT's not cheap,b ut you get a lot for your money. The address is Via Di Bigiano E Castel Bovani 39 Pistoia 51030 Italy Contact Gabrielle who is the owner. Phone number:Pistoia - overland Bigiano and Castel Bovani, 39 Tel 0573 450351 - Fax 0573 452669 Tel 0573 450351 - Fax 0573 452669 e-mail info@villadefiori.it - skype user: villadefiori e-mail info@villadefiori.it - skype user: villadefiori P.IVA 01478860479 VAT 01478860479 We had an extended stay (4 months) in their farmhouse with our 6 kids (amazing and cheap), and a week stay in the main part of the Villa with just the two of us which is elegant and more expensive.. Laurie Ballam in Logan,, UT USA 09/15/2008 I just wanted to comment that out of all of the different guidebooks that we purchased for this trip (Fodors, Italy for dummies, etc. about 6 in all), your book on Italy was the best! You provide good, practical tips (validating train tickets, best modes of travel - train vs. bus vs. metro)and found that we relied on your book over all other books. You steered us to the best places to visit. When we get back to Europe again, we will definitely purchase your guidebooks. Hands down the best! We also purchased your money belt - gave us a great comfort level knowing that our valuables were secure. And, by the way, we are avid watchers of your program on PBS. Thanks for helping to make our Italy trip such a success! Brian & Alice Z. in Waukesha, WI USA 09/12/2008 We had the best time in the northwestern hill towns of Tuscany, near Barga. There are so many great restaurants and sites just off the beaten path, such as an old Hermitage carved into the hillside and the place where American Buffalo soldiers fought and died during WWII at Sommocolonia. It makes a great side trip if you're driving from Rome up to the Cinque Terre. Dave Matsumoto in Tacoma, WA USA 09/10/2008 Capri: I took the ski lift up to the top of Mount Solare, and, following your suggestion, hiked down back to Anacapri. You said the hike would be a 'highlight', but I disagree. The initial third of the hike was thru scrubland, the middle third paralleled the ski lift (and therefore there were views, but essentially the same as from the lift), and the last third was behind people's backyard walls. Add to this the hot weather, and I wish I had just taken the lift down for just an extra EUR 2. I would say keep the mention of the alternate way down, but don't label it as a 'highlight'. Ben in Mountain View, CA USA 09/09/2008 Mark House itsmark@durango.net Mark House in Durango, CO USA 09/07/2008 My husband and I found a uniquely medieval little bed and breakfast in the uniquely medieval little town of Lucca. It was just outside the town wall and would make a great addition to your guide book. You will receive a friendly greeting and an authentic Italian coffee upon arrival from owner Maurizio. As soon as you enter seeing fairies and gnomes floating on the walls you realize it is not the normal run of the mill bed and breakfast. While Maurizio is making you a coffee, you have time to explore the lovely garden to which the lobby and most rooms open up to. Once you are finished collecting classic Italian recipes and socializing, Maurizio will show you to your room where the paintings and surprises continue. We had a private bathroom with an additional large bathtub in our bedroom and champagne and chocolates on the bedside. The rooms are also beautifully decorated with a wide variety of fabrics and a chain-mail lamp to continue the theme. Not one detail is left out of this unique little bed and breakfast and I have plenty of pictures I am willing to share to prove it to you. Corte dei Folletti Bed and Breakfast V.le Castracani, 1192 55100 Lucca Tel. & Fax: 0583 492931 Cell: 347 0140365 www.cortedeifolletti.it info@cortedeifolletti.it I have a recommendation for Florence, a restaurant called Za-Za. The food was so great and reasonably priced that we ate there two nights in a row. We were only in Florence for two nights!! However, you must get there early on the weekends or you will be eating at a lousy pizza stand instead. Za-Za also sells cook books, so you can bring home a little taste of Italy. Trattoria Za-Za Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 26r Firenze Tel: 055215411 Fax: 055210756 www.trattoriazaza.it info@trattoriazaza.it Nikki Campagna in Tampa, FL USA 09/05/2008 Southern Italy, Southern Italy, Southern Italy! I can't stress enough how much I enjoyed plunging south of Rome. I spent almost 2 months going from Como to Trapani, and two of my favorite spots were Naples and Palermo. The food is authentic, the accomodation cheaper, there are no shortage of sights and you will have the eye opener of a life time experiencing Big City Italy. Despite warnings of higher crime in these cities, I found that if you walk into a cafe or shop and try to use broken Italian to communicate, the shop keepers are so delighted to have an enthusiastic tourist in their neck of the woods they will go out of their way to help you, even if you can't really talk with one another. Up north in Pisa and Venice, you're just another face in a sea of tourists, being price gouged everywhere you go and having your pockets and wallet constantly grabbed by potential pick pockets. While slightly intimidating at first, I never felt unsafe or harassed in Naples or Palermo (where I spent 4 days, each). Paul Rosini in Victoria, BC Canada 08/17/2008 When we were hiking in the Cinque Terre, we could see huge jellyfish off the coast where people were swimming! Karen and Andy Ramroth in San Carlos, CA USA 08/15/2008 Hi! I was just in Florence, and discovered a great English-speaking cobbler. I'm sorry I don't have the exact address, but the name of the place is called "Heel Express" and it's on Via Dell'Oriuolo behind the Duomo. It's about halfway between the Duomo and Via Borgo Pinti. Anyway, it's a great little spot. One of my sandals started falling apart, so I went in, and in 10 minutes the guy had it fixed up, checked over the other shoe, and it was done well. And for only 5 Euro! Suzanne in St. Paul, MN USA 08/12/2008 Our trip throughout Italy was fantastic due to the excellent information and recommendations in your guidebook! Ann Doty in Juneau, AK USA 08/11/2008 We stayed outside Sorrento in a hotel we can't recommend highly enough: Hotel il Nido Via Nastro Verde, 62 80067 (NA) Italia www.ilnido.it The room was large and clean, with a balcony overlooking the water - and chairs to enjoy the view. We ate at the hotel every night because the good was so good - freshly prepared according to our needs, served on the veranda overlooking the water (gulf of napoli??). Dino couldn't do enough to make our stay comfortable. Regular taxi service into town so that we could tour the Amalfi Coast, Capri, Sorrento. kay greenblatt in suffern, ny USA 08/10/2008 Renting an Apartment in Venice, Florence, & Rome was a much better option for a family--more affordable,comfortable and roomy, plus,you get to live like the locals--Unbeatable for the price, location and experience. All 3 of our apartments were a fantastic experience! Found all 3 on VRBO. Have names and recommendations. Rent for one or more nights. Lynn in Colbert, WA USA 08/10/2008 Olcio near Varenna, Italy Bed and Breakfast Frontelago, Strada statale 182, 23826 Olcio di Mandello del Lario email: info@frontelagobeb.it Maria and Pietro were wonderful owners, helpful, kind, served breakfast out on the deck, lake right across the road. Will need earplugs, church bells ring daily and often. Euro 60.00/day/2 people Natalie Winslow in Monroe, WA USA 08/05/2008 As far as I know, your books have not covered these places. In northwestern Tuscany there is a little town called Peccioli, and it has two excellent restaurants. The first is Ristorante la Greppia, at Piazza del Carmine 19/20, semi-spendy but superb in atmosphere and cuisine. A more budget-conscious option was Golart Café, at Corso Matteotti 26/28. Our lodging while in this area was a beautiful restored 16th century villa called the Tuscan Secret Garden (aka Tenuta di Pratello), which we used as a base for day trips to Lucca and Pisa. Their website is www.pratello.it Close to the Tuscan-Umbrian border is a (virtually undiscovered) medieval hill town called Monte San Savino. We spent a week there, exploring wine areas, abbeys, and Siena and Cortona. Our lodging was a B&B named A Casa di Anelia that was truly the highlight of our trip, with a host and hostess who showed us why it’s said that Italians make you feel like family. Their website, should you like further information about them, is http://www.acasadianelia.com/indexi.htm We also visited Mantova (Mantua) to see the splendid frescoes of the Palazzo Te, the Ducal castle, and its exquisite theater (Teatro Bibiena) from Mozart’s era. Our small B&B called Ai Giardini del Te, was clean, welcoming, and inexpensive and the owner, Roberto, spoke quite a lot of English. He gave us a helpful map of town to help us get oriented and drew arrows to at least half a dozen restaurants that he recommended. The food in Mantova was astoundingly good and inexpensive. Three restaurants we enjoyed were Osteria dell’Oca, at Via Trieste 37; Osteria Broletto, located at Via Broletto 15; and Leoncino Rosso at Via Giustiziati 33. We stayed in Taormina, Sicily, at Villa Sara, http://www.villasara.net/ a small B&B run by Elena, whom we wanted to call “Nonna” within hours of landing there. While you can explore Siracusa, Mt. Etna, and Catania quite easily from here, you can also take the more relaxed approach we did, staying close to this fascinating town for a week at the beginning of our trip, getting into a mindset to enjoy Italy fully. Sorrento: Frusta Sorrentino is an excellent pizzeria, on Via Santa Maria della Pietà just across from Palazzo Starace. Primavera Gelateria the on Corso Italia by the Hotel Corso had some of the best gelato in the country. In Milano, our favorite restaurant was Osteria il Melograno, Via Caretta 3, just off Piazza Loreto. This was above average for price but was superb for quality, and is run by a chef-owner and his wife. The house wine was an excellent Dolcetto. Two antipasti, a risotto primo, a generous secondo, and two desserts, with a litre of the wine, came to under 65€ and they took credit cards. Their website: http://www.osteriailmelograno.it/default.html In Firenze, we found 2 small restaurants worth mention. Al Chirola di Jimmy is a small, casual restaurant at Viale Strozze 16, across from the Fortezza da Basso, a great little neighborhood hangout with surprisingly good food and very reasonable prices. Under the Uffizi end of Ponte Vecchio on Via Dei Girolami is Buca del’Orafo, a tiny but wonderful osteria. We had a three-hour lunch there one rainy day in Florence. Verona had two excellent restaurants not mentioned in the book, Osteria da Ugo at Vicolo Dietro Sant'Andrea, 1/B, where we had a really first-class table d’hôte dinner (no menu, just suggestions) in a home-dining-room atmosphere; and Osteria Casa Vino at Vicolo Morette 8. In Varenna on Lago Como, we had a wonderful meal at Nuova Isola. It was elegant and welcoming, and offering superb food at reasonable prices. It is located at Via del Prato 6, just above the harbor, and our dinner there was 46€ for some of the best food of our trip. Mary Jo & Patrick in Portland, OR USA 07/29/2008 While searching for Hostaria Romana in Rome(which we couldn't find, but did find it another night), we came across Ristorante Scanderbeg La Rosa, Vicolo Scanderbeg, 45 (Fontana di Trevi), Tel 06 67.93.826 (Chiuso Mercoledi), www.ristorante-larosa.com. My wife is a celiac (she cannot ingest gluten [which is primarily wheat]) and this was the only restaurant which had a menu for gluten-free food. It is a charming small restaurant with excellent food. We highly recommend it for atmosphere and quality of food. Gordon Cochrane in Crete, IL USA 07/23/2008 Pizzeria Florida- Rick, you have to go here and try the pizza. It's a must add to the restaurants list! pizza measured by 100gm, between 2,50 and 3,50 for lunch or small dinner-sized slice and coke or water. We went 3 times, and tried a 4th but it is closed on Sundays. Bus stop Argentina, on Via Florida (near Vittorio Emmanuele, sort of) USE THE ROMA PASS- We didn't wait in line at the Colosseum at all, bypassing at least an hour wait. SO convenient and you get your money's worth even in one day, so if you won't be there for 3 days, it's still completely worth it to buy (even if it's just to miss those lines in July). We booked a Vatican tour through Easytours.com. It's cheaper if you book through the website, but it was a good tour and completely worth the 25 euros to bypass a 2-3 hour line AND get guided through the craziness at the Vatican. Tip for St. Peters' (besides dress appropriately)- DO NOT exit the church to the right by the Swiss Guards until you have completely finished with the crypt, dome, or whatever else you want to do at the cathedral because you will have to wait in a security line again to get back in. We loved the iPod tours and wish there were more! People would approach us and ask if we had guided tours in English and we would say "yes" and then think, "Thanks Rick!" I really enjoyed Ostia Antica, although my travel buddy didn't. If you love history and frolicking in ancient ruins for hours and hours, it's definitely the place to go for a day trip. We also discovered that the beaches near Rome are on the same train line and decided to take a look. They were pretty fun and could definitely be a daytrip option for people with excessive amounts of time in Rome. The Roma Pass works on these trains as well. Hotel Fiume (Via Brescia, Bus Stop Porta Pia) is a great 3 star that we paid $500 for 4 nights in a double. The breakfast is amazing and it's air conditioned, has a hairdryer and solarium (but is still not "American"). We booked through Expedia and I think we got a huge discount for booking 4 nights. Normally $260/night? Staff is helpful. Taxi drivers WILL take advantage of you if they can. Anna Lee in Birmingham, AL USA 07/22/2008 The most complete and comprehensive website about the impressive roofless abbey is Sangalgano.org, a non-profit website about the abbey. http://www.sangalgano.org giacomo in San Galgano, Si Italy 07/19/2008 Several favorite tips: 1. Great advice re: set taxi prices from the the airport into Rome. We were approached by about 5 people who claimed that they were the "official" taxi service, but were charging up to 85 euros. Because of your book, we knew to go right to the taxi stand and turn down other offers. 2. We sought out Adamo at Contucci in Montepulciano. When we showed him his picture, he said "I'm famous in America" and signed our book. He was wonderful. 3. When we arrived in Vernazza, we were parched from our hiking (blistering hot in June).We would not have known to explore into town if not for your recommendation on Il Pirata, where we had fabulous lemon and strawberry granitas. The panzerotto are incredible! 4. I sent a lodging recommendation in a separate e-mail, for a fabulous place near Chiusi. Patricia Benson in Ann Arbor, MI USA 07/17/2008 In Florence, a day trip to Greve for wine tasting was one of our best activities. You can only appreciate so many madonnas, after all. Take the bus, go to the shop that has 48 wines for self-select tasting, and have a ball. Also, I had difficulty with ATMs in Italy. Many (usually at the regional populare banks) only took 4 digit PINs or didn't work with the Cirrus network. Best success was with BNL. I bought a pre-paid euro card before my trip for contingencies, and this problem made that purchase a good idea. In Florence, if you fail to get reservations for the Accademia, go 45 minutes before opening for the shortest wait. It's worth it. Linda in Lakewood, CO USA 07/16/2008 Hi-this is Kate Little from Monterosso in the Cinque Terre (www.fishnet.it). I didn't get a chance to meet up with Rick this year but I had a few new Monterosso recommendations for the book that I wanted to let you all know about. The Casello bar is now a bar/restaurant and the food is pretty good and is fairly priced. It is not a late night hangout anymore. Bar Bagni Fegina changed management and is a great restaurant now called Barraba. More expensive. Buranco winery has changed ownership and is now an agriturismo. They have very comfortable rooms and apartments and the setting is beautiful. Their website is http://www.burancocinqueterre.it/prodotti_vini.php?lang=en . Regards to everyone on the staff that I might know- and compliments for continuously publishing quality and conscious guides. 2009 will mark my 20th anniversary of living in the Cinque Terre. I never would have gotten here if I hadn't have packed 21 days in Europe. Thanks Rick! Kate Little in Monterosso al Mare, 5T Italy 07/16/2008 In Pompeii: the triangle shaped park near the Teatre is a nice place to cool off and has a cool ancient bench to the right side. Don't miss the Venus in shell Casa and Octavius Portio Casa and make sure to look in doorways on way to Ampitheater. Sally in Cincinnati, OH USA 07/15/2008 In Taormina, Sicily - Hotel Schuler. We stayed 3 nights and hated to leave. Beautiful hotel, spotless, wonderful bathrooms, unbelievable views, private gardens are incredible and the breakfast the best of our 2 week Italy trip. We can't wait to return. Venice - SUVE supermarket near Rialto bridge - great fresh prepackaged insalate mista - 1.60 euro! meat counter great - fruits and veggies fresh ripe. all you need for cheap great meal is here. Tony Caruso in Alpharetta , GA USA 07/12/2008 We found a wonderful restaurant in Siena. Ristorante Enoteca Le Vie Del Gusto, Via dei Fusari, 9. It is near the Duomo. Carlo and Carlos are wonderful people. The food is fantastic; the service is wonderful and the prices are quite reasonable. Highly recommended. Mary in Arlington Hts., IL USA 07/09/2008 Restaurant in Florence: Cipolla Rossa Osteria, Via dei Conti 53. This restaurant is down the street from Hotel Centrale. Great food, Super service, Very reasonable prices. Highly recommended. Mary in Arlington Hts., IL USA 07/09/2008 We used the guidebook in Rome and Sorrento and found the information so informative and so precise. We did find a wonderful pub in Sorento, Chaplins Irish Pub which really was wonderful. A wonderful family runs it and we made it our daily stop. They were helpful with local restaurant recommendations. Bonnie Cardow in Shalimar, FL USA 07/09/2008 I recommend La Bernineta restaurant, near piazza Cavour, down stairs from Hotel Sant Angelo. Daniel in Calexico, Ca USA 07/04/2008 We arrived in Vernazza about three weeks after you left in 2008, Rick...lots of Steves' books out and about! Sandy in San Bruno, CA USA 07/02/2008 We discovered two wonderful restaurants in Rome we wish to share. The first is Romilo Il Ristorante, via di Campo Marzio, 13, 00186 Roma, (06 68.93.499). The food was outstanding and our waiter was excellent! The prices were also reasonable. We highly recommend it. Our second recommendation is Trattoria Cecio MMVII, via Principe Amedeo, 104, 00185 Roma, (06 44.64.991). This restaurant also had excellent food and service and extremely reasonable prices. Michael Viscomi in Whitefish, MT USA 06/30/2008 Be very careful of the taxi drivers in Rome! Ana Miner in Novato, CA USA 06/26/2008 http://www.hotelduomofirenze.it/ - The Hotel Duomo is fantastic! The views from your window cannot be beat (you are literally right next to the Duomo). Hotel staff was pleasant and helpful and breakfast was brilliant. Did I mention the view? Cyndi in Watertown, MA USA 06/26/2008 Il Faro Hotel Sorrento, Italy. The rooms are typical italian with views of the Bay of Naples. Location is great for island hopiing or using the ferry to visit Amalfi, Positano, Salerno and Ravello. Luigi, the 3rd generation owner and his nother who still lives on site take care to provide the absolute best service in Sorrento. Breakfast is served daily and special orders are recognized as normal and provided for on a daily basis. There are 4 restaurants within this boutique hotel. The Vela Bianca serves delicious and fresh meals with 5 star service at a 3 star price. All breads, apstries and desserts are made on site daily. This hotel was listed in your older guide books but somehow is not in your current issue. Theresa Del Brocco in Costa Mesa, CA USA 06/23/2008 In Siena, another restaurant deserves mention. We ate at the Gallo Nero on Via San Martino. They serve Medieval meals in great atmosphere. They have ala carte, but they also have several prix fixe options. We opted for the Medieval banquet, which was an excellant four couse meal, including bottled water spiced wine, and a bottle of local wine for 30 euro per person. The waiter was very patient with us and our questions. He seemed quite well versed in local historical cuisine and eating practices. It was our big night out, and it did not disappoint.53100 Siena - Italy - via del Porrione, 65/67 - tel 0577/284356 - fax 0577/284346 http://www.gallonero.it/medievale.html Also in Siena, we stayed at a hotel called La Locanda di San Martino, at via San Martino 14. It is a four story hotel (no elevator). The rooms are really small suites, with modern bathrooms. They had WIFI and a nice breakfast. One of our rooms had original frescos on the ceiling. 39 (577) 223885 Andrew Crowley in Woodlyn, PA USA 06/23/2008 My tip for rick is stress over and over that italians view meals differentlty than north americans, encourage more strongly that when travelling in italy visitors should order like a local, the service, and overall experience is much better, we ordered as if we were in a canadian resturant for 1st week of 3 week trip and were disappioted with results both service and food, after changing our ways and ordering as a local the service was much better and the food experience was fantastic, we did read your book prior to trip but did not connect how important this small item was and how it impacted our trip Mark Hurworth in Courtenay, BC Canada 06/23/2008 La Renella, a bakery in Rome, Italy on via dell renella, which turns into via del moro in trastevere. This local bakery has the best fresh baked bread, and amazing table pizza. Take a number and be prepared to wait a few minutes when the bread comes out hot. andrea seremet in newington, ct USA 06/23/2008 Hotel Il Nido was in the 2007 book but not in the 2008. We stayed there in 2008 and it was wonderful! It was the best value of any of 4 hotels we stayed in. Jolien Mierke in Alexandria, VA USA 06/21/2008 The Manarola Vineyard Walk is a MUST! We absolutely loved this when we were in the Cinque Terre Jessica in Baldwin, WI USA 06/17/2008 I found a wonderful restaurant in Venice and wanted to share it with you and your readers. The name is Trattoria-Pizzeria al Gallo D'oro. It's on Rio Tera 'De Le Colonne, between St Mark's Square and the Rialto Bridge. They had the best meat sauce I'd tasted in Italy and had the best prices I'd found anywhere in Venice. I highly recommend them to your readers. Their phone number is (0039) 041 5230624 Amy in Buffalo, ny USA 06/17/2008 When I was planning my trip to Florence, I called the Hotel Maxim, which is listed in your guidebook. They were sold out on the days I wanted, but they referred me to the Hotel Axial, which is in the same building and is owned by the same family. Hotel Axial is one star more than Hotel Maxim and was an EXCEPTIONAL hotel. Very clean, incredibly friendly service, plentiful breakfast, and an outstanding location. I highly recommend you add to your Italy and Florence guidebooks. Your readers will not be disappointed. Hotel Axial Via Dei Calzaiuoli 11 50122 Firenze (Florence) www.hotelaxial.it (web) info@hotelaxial.it (e-mail) (0039) 055 21894 (telephone) Amy in Buffalo, NY USA 06/17/2008 Ristorante Da Giovanni, Via A Salavandra, 1, Roma Tel 06.48.59.50. My daughter and my favorite restaurant during 7 days in Rome, went back two more times.Excellent food, in particularly the daily specials. Elderly wait staff is courteous and helpful. No bread charge, no gratuity. We averaged 40 euro for antipasto, 2 prima dishes, 1 seconde, desert, wine, cafe. Excellent food, well prepared. Mostly Italian clientele, but tourist friendly. recommended by staff at Hotel Oceania. Chet Brewer in Severna Park, MD USA 06/16/2008 If you have room for another hotel recommendation in Firenze, you might want to check out he Hotel Casci. Carole Bennett in Daytona Beach, FL USA 06/15/2008 Hi Rick and associates - I would like to submit a recommendation for your consideration to include in your next book. We've just recently returned from 3 weeks in Italy and found all of your suggestions and recommendations to be very useful. Thank you!! However, during our stay in Monterosso we ended up using someone off the street for accomodation and it was not good to say the least. When we went to the T.I. she put us in touch with Francesco who also owns Fast Bar (already featured in your book, Italy 2008). He has 3 beautiful new rooms, (not yet a year old) flatscreen TV, mini fridge, airconditioning, blowdryer, and it's also ecologically friendly. Francesco's english is very good and he was helpful with our questions concerning the area and culture, in general. He was very accomodating and went out of his way to make us comfortable. Out of all the places we stayed this was truly a highlight for us. He is planning on opening more rooms in the near future. It was also great to visit the Fast Bar as he would make you feel like part of his community even introducing us to his mom! I think your readers would benefit greatly from this knowledge. I would like to give you Francesco's webpage for your information. It is www.iltimonedimonterosso.it Thank you again for making our first European adventure so enjoyable. Lucy Neary LN in Lake Country, BC Canada 06/14/2008 Capritime Tours: info@capritime.com. Enjoyed our tour of Capri with this company - it included circumnavigation of the island, Monte Solaro, Villa Jovis, Augustus Gardens and time to explore Anacapri & Capri towns. Villa San Michele was a worthwhile extra. Our guide, Fabien, was very knowledgeable and helpful; introduced us to a local artist as well as the best sandwiches we had in Italy - caprese was delicious. Bolsena Lake was beautiful, it's so close to Civita it might be worth mentioning in the guidebook...it also has an interesting little castle. Roma Pass we found more a headache than useful - only saved about 4 euros per person, and had problems - some places that take the pass let you choose whether you want to use your free admission there or just take the discount ( e.g. Castell St Angelo, Ara Pacis, where they even wrote us a letter correcting the mistake after swiping one pass by mistake), others insist that you have to use it on your first two sights and won't give you the discount otherwise. Capitoline Museums were in this category, we ended up paying full price because we wanted to save the pass for the Colosseum which we were scheduled to visit the following day. Maybe if you're planning to use a lot of public transport it's more worthwhile, but we found taxis more convenient for longer trips. Alcalay in Platteville, WI USA 06/11/2008 In Verona, there is a family run restaurant off of Corto Porto Borsari that we felt was quite superior. It is "Osteria S?" It is on the same street as Enoteca Oreste but on the other side of Borsari. This was our ninth trip to Italy, and my first time being victimized by a pickpocket. Alas, I carried by prescription sunglasses in my Rick Steve's backpack. They are now helping some other equally blind soul watch sunsets in Venice. In short, don't put anything in your backpack that you can't live without. (I did, indeed, have a money belt.) Alfonso Damico in Iowa City, IA USA 06/10/2008 Arriving at Varenna station, if no taxi waiting (to get to Eremo Gaudio), just try calling out "Taxi!". A driver lives directly across the lot. That's what my wife jokingly did, and that's how we found out! Richard Harned in Kenmore, NY USA 06/10/2008 Recently stayed at the Palace Hotel in Levanto. Very friendly staff, 10% discount with cash. The beauty is that first, Levanto is a very quaint town just north of the Cinque Terre, and it is one stop on the train to Monterosso, the first town in the Cinque Terra. The prices are very reasonable and just about 1 km walk to train station. The gardens are very pleasant, a little noisy at night. A good buy in the region. The Palace Hotel. Check it out. Tom Priest in Melbourne, Fl USA 06/09/2008 After disembarking our cruise ship in Naples, we engaged a private tour driver Fabrizio Melaragno through allarounditaly.net We would highly reccommend him as he was an informed, responsible, passionate and friendly guide and he made our day. He drove us to Sorrento, Positano and along the Amalfi Coast and then took us to Pompeii always being aware of the time needed to get back to the ship. He does tours out of Rome and Florence as well and if and when we return to Italy , we would certainly use him again. We highly recommend this enthusiastic fellow. ruth altman in Thornhill, On canada 06/09/2008 My husband and I had a great trip in Italy this spring thanks to Rick Steve's books. After using his books last year in the UK and Paris, we find that we often "do whatever RS tells us" and are usually extremely pleased with the results. Paula Lowe in Hillsborough, NC USA 06/09/2008 Florence restaurant: Palle d'Or (Via Sant'Antonino 43-45 (much more reasonable than Trattoria Trebbio and friendlier service). W. Wong in San Francisco, CA USA 06/08/2008 During our trip to Rome, Florence and Tuscany, we spent a day near Greve in Chianti with Paola and Simonetta de Mari, two sisters who run a company called Toscana Mia (http://www.welcometuscany.com). In the morning, Paola guided my wife and me through the preparation of a 5-course traditional Tuscan meal, which we enjoyed for lunch with their family. In the afternoon, we went to the Agraria Casanuova Ama family winery, where we were treated to a tasting by the vintner himself. He took immense pride in his exceptional wines. The setting was the beautiful Chianti countryside, and Paola, Simonetta, and the family have renovated an amazing medieval farmhouse into a home for their family and a setting for the cooking class. In addition to the cooking/winery tour, Toscana Mia offers other courses in Italian language, olive grove walks, trips to the market, etc. in Florence and Chianti. The hospitality they showed my wife and me, and the day they spent with us, gave us an idea of Italy beyond the museums, tourists, trains, and restaurants. I would highly recommend their inclusion in a future Rick Steves guidebook for Italy and/or Florence and Tuscany. Russ Lorber in Westminster, MD USA 06/07/2008 We just got back from two weeks travelling by train all over northern Italy. Rick's guidebook was read before and during our trip, it provided our "guide" very well, as well as his handy little phrasebook. We took a basic Italian language course before the trip and it really helped us. We recommend this for all who can do it. We used our Rick Steves backpacks and they worked great on trains, in towns, everywhere. We recommend them. We are senior citizens in decent shape and got along very well carrying 17 pounds on our backs. Ron and Linda Schroeder in Portland, OR USA 06/06/2008 Try the little restaurant "Il Giardino di Barbano" (www.giardinobarbano.com) in Florence at Piazza Indipendenza, 3r. The menu is a idiosyncratic mix of English and Italian, and American students come here, but so do Italians. The pizzas were good; the gnocchi divine. And the prices were good (under 10 Euros for most). Perhaps the best reason is that this is a low key place where American tourists don't have to feel intimidated. Susan Aldridge in Milwaukee, WI USA 06/06/2008 I would recommend including the following two accommodations to the guidebook on Italy: First, La Locanda del Capitano in Montone, is the wonderful hotel that the Rick Steves' tour groups use 10 times a year. However, it is not listed in the guidebook - wonder why?!? Giancarlo and Carmen Polito are the hosts, with Giancarlo also serving as the chef. Meals are fabulous and Montone is a quaint medieval town. Montone is the perfect place to stay and make day trips to Assisi, Cortona, Gubbio, etc. Secondly, we finished our 15 days in Italy in the Dolomites and Kastelruth. A wonderful accommodation was Haus Silbernagl, run by Petra Silbernagl-Zeni. Her parents built the facility 30 years ago and she has been running it for 20 years. What an innkeeper! She was bubbly, high energy and knew everything about the region. The accommodations are excellent with an indoor pool, sauna, wonderful breakfast, and unbelievable views. What a way to end the trip! Bill Davis in Winston-Salem, NC USA 06/04/2008 Florence and Tuscany Sharon Hodgkins in Sheffield, UK 06/04/2008 Dear Sirs, I am recommending an addition to the Rick Steves guidebook for Naples, Italy. My party of five were fortunate to stay at the Bonapace bed and breakfast at Porta Nolana. This is one of three Bonapace b & b's in Naples. Our host was the gracious and warm Arrigo and the hotel was impeccably decorated, clean and warm. The breakfast was plentiful and delicious. The exterior is a bit formidable, but this was expected. The transformation of the inside was nothing less than marvelous. I sincerely believe Mr. Steves should investigate this family owned business of b & b's. They also have one in the Dolomites. Please e-mail me for further information. stkdanbev@hotmail.com. Sincerely, Beverly Sheehy (P.S. I was in Casastarita in Sorrento when Mr. Steves looked at my room. To my surprise, he signed my guidebook which was sitting on the nightstand. Thanks, Mr. Steves)Hotel Bonapace Porta Nolana bonapaceportanolana@virgilio.it Beverly Sheehy in Stockton, Ca USA 06/01/2008 I stumbled up Fiat 500 Tours in Florence quite by accident. A friend and I took a tour with Sophie and Alex, and it was SO MUCH FUN. This is an excellent way to experience Florence from a totally different perspective. They're so relaxed about letting perfect strangers drive these amazing little cars, and the reaction from other tourists and locals alike was incredible. It just makes you laugh and smile the whole time. There is nothing like a bunch of locals coming up to have their pictures taken with the cars. This was my third trip to Italy and this was one of the most enjoyable experiences ever. This would be a fabulous addition to the guidebook. Their web site is: http://www.500touringclub.com/ Lisa Marzano in Belmont, NC USA 05/31/2008 We were looking for accommodations for the evening in the Genova area and found ourselves in a little area called Savignone. Driving up a mountain and looking for signs for a hotel, we came upon a delightful little square/piazza with an old hotel, called Palazzo Fieschi. The owners were very hospitable, friendly people. Rooms immaculate, marble staircase, very old but lovely hotel. In the morning at breakfast, we were asked if we would like eggs instead of the usual European breakfast. I highly recommend the Palazzo Fieschi in Savignone - we were so lucky to find this great spot.Address is Piazza della Chiesa 14, 16010 Savignone (GE), Tel. 010.93.60.063. We hope you'll consider this hotel for your Italy book, Rick. Marge Sykes in Elbridge, NY United States 05/24/2008 We visited Rome/Florence/Venice/Sorrento in May 2008 using ‘Italy 2007’ as a main source for accommodations and places to visit. It is our third trip with Rick’s books (first two were France and UK) and the book helped us great deal as usual. We’d never be able to make our itinerary as we did with this book. Some tips: 1) Audioguides – was the best new thing we had – I was hesitant at first but we did ALL tours and museum tours and city walks were absolutely wonderful. The only problem was that schemas did not work with my MP3 player and for museums- it is nice to have a visual clue (thumbnail picture) for the object we are looking at like in ‘Mona Lisa winks’. Also the tours in the each ‘city’ book is more detailed then in the ‘Italy’ book, but we can’t have all of those with us. Managed to use the ‘old’ Mona Lisa tours with Italy book for updated info about other issues like transportation connections; Thanks, Rick and team for the great time! Irina in Daly City, CA USA 05/20/2008 We went to Italy last month and LOVED the audio tours. Especially in Rome, we saved money on tours and still learned the history of the ancient sites. Katy Strange in Newcastle, UK 05/19/2008 For those interested in hiking, I found a fabulous book (the only non-RS book I brought on the trip!) called "Walking and Eating in Tuscany and Umbria" by James Lasdon and Pia Davis. Many detailed instructions for wonderful hikes - we hiked from Pienza to Montepulciano one day through beautiful countryside - great views of the hilltowns, and lovely flowers. The town of Montichiello was a great place to stop halfway. I highly recommend this book for travellers who enjoy being more active. Susan in Boston, MA USA 05/14/2008 Phone: 206 772 2015 Scott in Renton, WA USA 05/12/2008 GENIUS LOCI COUNTRY INN - BEVAGNA, UMBRIA While our guests arrive with an array of guide books in hand, it seems the most common one is Rick Steves. We find these guests most often to be real travelers and not simply tourists, ready to capture the essence of Umbria from the base of our upscale, charming Inn. A huge thank you to all the Rick Steves family of travelers. www.geniuslociumbria.com Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna PG, ITALY 05/04/2008 I made two delightful discoveries in San Gimignano. The World Famous Home Made Gelato by the Gelato World Champions. The only place to find the original saffron ice cream, "Crema di Santa Fina" (registered). It was a very beautiful taste (they offer tastings), and one of the best gelatos in Italy (and I LOVE gelato), and generous scoops. The place is: Gelateria di Piazza, Piazza della Cisterna 4. The other find, was during Market Thursday, in the middle of Piazza Duomo, (don't recall the stand having a name), a very nice gentleman sells spiced roasted pork (he'll give you a taste) which he'll put into a sandwich (4 Euro) for you, which is large enough to share, but ask to have it cut in half. Very tasty. Sheryll Matheson in Coquitlam, BC Canada 04/21/2008 Rome Restaurant: Nana Vini e Cucina Via della Panetteria, 37 Rome, Italy Romantic napolitan restaurant near Fontana Trevi, excellent foor & service. Best restaurant experience for my wife and me in Italy. Les Garcia in Miami, FL USA 04/20/2008 Recently returned from a trip to Italy (Rome, Amalfi Coast) for which we used your 2007 book (uh, we'd been planning the trip for more than a year). Found the book very helpful and well organized. Couple of things, tho. We had brought along a GPS gizmo (a TomTom One XL, fyi) from the U.S. for help in navigating. First time we'd ever done that on any vacation, and it paid for itself over and over again. If we hadn't had the GPS, we'd never have found our B&B high above the town of Minori on the Amalfi Coast. (Villa Marietta -- I highly recommend it) And we might not have found the town, given that flight delays into Rome pushed back our eventual arrival there by rental car til about 11:30 p.m. But we used the device over and over again to find routes to such places as Paestum, Herculaneum, Pompeii, Fiumicino Airport's international departure terminal, etc. It was way handier than a map (tho we had one of those, too, for backup). You might want to think about recommending use of a GPS in future books. It was an invaluable help in places where some of the roads had been laid out by people driving ox carts 2,500 years ago. And these days, lots of car rental companies will rent you a GPS if you don't have your own.
Also, our trip included a week in Malta, which holds more history and pre-history per square mile (all 122 of 'em) than maybe anyplace on Earth. We weren't insane enough to rent a car there and found their bus system and its antique buses part of the fun of the whole thing. But, anyway, my point is that you don't have a guidebook that covers Malta, as far as I can tell. The place drew 1.2 million visitors in 2007, but only about 20,000 from the U.S. While I enjoy visiting someplace where every accent I hear isn't American, I think Americans should know more about Malta. Its history is both immense and fascinating, its people are way beyond friendly, its food is good, its climate is benign (well, compared to Minnesota, where I live) and there's lots to do there besides absorbing history (I'm a scuba diver and could have happily spent my entire week there diving, for instance). Might be worth considering as a separate book or as an addendum to an Italy book, since Malta is only about 100 miles off Italy's toe and spent a good chunk of its history as a political appendage of Sicily. We ended up using a Lonely Planet guidebook for Malta that was written in English English, rather than American English. Not a big problem, but it did occasionally require a bit of translation. Dennis Buster in Prior Lake, MN USA 04/20/2008 Duomo Secret Itineraries tour in Venice was fabulous! Nicole in Denver, CO USA 04/18/2008 La Piana Trattoria, Via di Camollia, Siena - best food, best atmosphere and most reasonably priced food in Siena. Not near tourist sights, but an easy walk. The restaurants near il Campo were overpriced and full of tourists. La Piana was mostly locals, with wait staff who could help translate the menu. Well worth it. Mimi Satter in Syracuse , NY USA 04/13/2008 We lived near Orleans, France for over 2 years in 1999-2001. We sent our 2 elementary aged children to public school there. We traveled only to places recommended by Rick, and we relive wonderful memories of many European hostels and back-door places. I could not begin to thank Rick enough, not just for specific recommendations, but for the mind-set he helped us to adopt. Bob and Jennifer Campbell in El Paso, TX USA 04/12/2008 I just have to put this story up! I was walking around Assisi, it was getting late in the afternoon and I wanted to get up to the Rocca Maggiore, the big castle at the top of the town, before it got too late. I was in the Piazza Commune and I saw a staircase going up. It looked like it may get me up there, but, I wasnt sure. I saw a man walk out of a store and was just standing there. So, in my very best AWFUL Italian, I asked him if that was the way to get to Rocca Maggiore? He noticed the Rick Steves book in my hand and grabbed my arm and said, "I'M IN THERE!!" I had no idea what he was talking about for a second, then I realized, it was the Rick Steves book! It was Friendly Fabrizio from La Bottega dei Sapori! He welcomed me in to his store, made room for me on a counter, that was full of products that he just moved away and pulled up a stool for me to sit and eat. He asked me what I wanted to try. I remembered in the guide, it said someplace to try Porchetta in Umbria, so thats what I asked him to try. He took out a big tray of carved porchetta and took a HUGE, beautiful looking roll, cut it, and piled it HIGH with porchetta and then drizzled some of the thickest looking olive oil I had ever seen on it and just handed it to me! It was delicious!! As I was eating this amazing and HUGE sandwich, he poured me a glass of local wine and started making me little bruschettas with olive oil, various truffle spreads, a chickpea spread and an arrabiatta spread. He also let me try some of his 8 year old aged Balsamic Vinegar on some fresh greens. Everything was FANTASTIC! He didnt charge me a dime for any of it!! Of course, I bought a bunch of stuff from him, because it was SO good and he was SO nice! It was just one of those experiences that makes travelling SO great!! It is also something that would have NEVER happened had it not been for Rick Steves guidebooks!!! Thanks again!!!! Brian Freund in keego harbor, mi USA 04/11/2008 Rick Steves' Guide books have given SO much to me, I want to try and, if nothing else, give as much and as accurate feedback for my experiences as possible! This was my 2nd trip to Europe. I went to Amsterdam, Barcelona and all around France last year with a friend, using Rick Steves' as my main source. I just returned from Italy, by myself, using Rick Steves and a few other books. Rough Guides and Fodors. In reading the books, I found that I typically like Rick Steves more, but, there were some things that, in reading, I thought did a more thorough job of some cities and sights that I was interested in. In practice, I found nobody and nothing compares to Rick Steves books! I had the most up-to-date books from each series, and the Rick Steves books were so much more accurate and up to date than the others, I was amazed! I also found, that, at least for me, the guided tours that are in his guides may not go over every piece of every room in every museum, but, they go over the most important things and keep things light and interesting, while giving enough depth to be informative and moving, at times! I kept thinking, through my whole 2 weeks in Italy, how lucky I was to pick his books out of all of them! My trip would have been great, no matter what. But, thanks to Rick Steves', it was 2 of the best weeks of my life! I really cant thank Rick Steves, his staff and the whole online community that takes advantage of the resources and answer all the questions from people like me, enough. I know that I experienced Italy in a way that such a small percentage of the millions of Americans that go to Italy, experience. If there is ever anything I could do to show my gratitude, I would gladly do it. I took pictures of everything in every self-guided walk I took, of almost every hotel and restaurant, as well as food and wine that I really liked. I also would love to share my opinions about what I experienced with the other readers, obviously, but, any information that I can give to help make the Rick Steves guides any better I would love to give!! Brian Freund in keego harbor, MI USA 04/11/2008 We discovered a great hotel in Venice. The Al Vagon and Al Campiello, www.hotelvagon.com and www.alcampiello.com have a great location between Ca D'oro and Rialto vaporetto stops, reasonable prices (we paid 100 euros first week of April, for a room with balcony overlooking a small canal. This is less than we paid 5yrs ago for a less convenient location and much smaller room. Would recommend adding it to the book. The proprietor, Mauritzio, liked the idea too. Jean Yoder in Ann Arbor, MI USA 04/10/2008 In future editions I'm sure travelers would benefit (no matter the country) from extra blank pages in the front and back of the books- any of them. I loved the cheat sheets, yet I needed extra space for phrases and words that I in particular needed.
Also, a recommendation for any traveler to any country: take non perishable munchies (customs friendly) with you. Our flights were delayed, we had no car, the wind was howling and the rain was pelting sideways when we arrived in the dark to our apartment with a kitchen. If it weren't for some luck in timing and guts in asking our host to drive us to the grocery store 10 minutes before it closed, we would have had trail mix and dried fruit for dinner- but at least we had that. 10 minutes and less forward thinking would have left us hungry, exhausted and isolated in a new place. April O'Connor in Portland, OR USA 04/07/2008 we happened to be in florence last week and it was cultural week in italy so we scored big time. free entry to accademia, uffizzi, and bobloi gardens. we had to pay our 3 euro per person reservation fee to the 2 museums but it was all cool bruce lahr in sauk rapids, mi USA 04/03/2008 Cinque Terre was wonderful! In addition to the hike between towns we hiked up to Volastra.
Naples was fascinating. Thanks for the walking tour of the city. I was a little nervous (traveling alone) and heeded the safety concerns but so glad that went. I went as a day trip out of Rome and it was flawless. I saw Pompeii, Naples Museum and walking tour of Naples. Scott Hovey in Durham, NC USA 03/31/2008 In Florence, we ate a wonderful meal at the Osteria Santo Spirito located at Piazza Santo Spirito! It is 2 easy blocks from the Pitti Palace. Just ask a museum guard to point you in the right direction. Gale in Melbourne Beach, FL USA 03/24/2008 Antico Borgo Poggiarello near Monterrigioni, Tuscany www.poggiarello.com Wonderful agritourismo out in the heart of Tuscany with beautiful Tuscan sunsets out the apartment windows, great food, antiques, wine, roman bath, lovely grounds and pool. Sue Laabs in Northville, MI USA 03/23/2008 Tuscany Hotel- Borgo il Poggiaccio. You should check this place out it is a Tuscan Fairytale. The prices were reasonable and the experience is memorable. The service is excellent. It is not in the heart of a big city but neither are the agriturismos. It seems like a place you would like. We stayed four nights in a roomy two bedroom two bath apartment for 172 Euro! Check out their website: http://www.borgoilpoggiaccio.it/home_en.htm Carolyn Sleeper in Phoenix, AZ USA 03/22/2008 Calabria, Southern Italy. You must include Calabria in your next book. It is amazing even in the month of January. Lamezia, Catanzaro, Brancaleone, Reggio Calabria, Sicily, Vibo Valentia & Pizzo are awesome. Brancaleone is a costal town on the Ionian sea, a small town on the edge of the sea but the location is georgous. An approx 1 hour drive by car or train from Reggio Calabria. Siciy is a piece of heaven. The entire coast is pure magic, the views are awesome even in January. Pizzo is a small hillside town and it is just magicial. The views over the piazza are amazing. Take a trip and include in your next book please. Maggie Ireland 03/11/2008 I took the three city guidebooks (Rome, Florence & Tuscany, and Venice), and they all proved to be the best heavy-items i packed. I read the "Transportations Connections" sections of the books before arriving into the airports/train or bus stations, and was able to hit the ground running. Thank-you! I did realize, though, that there doesn't seem to be a real "off-season" or "low-season" of tourism in italy (especially rome and florence)... more like "high season" and "really high season"...? st peter's basilica and the vatican museum were packed (although i found it amusing to hear the vatican guide say, "we can stay and admire this painting for a couple more minutes because it's not so crowded" even though we had to squeeze past and through groups of people because the room was so full... wouldn't like to be there when it IS crowded!), as were the other big sights. luckily we had booked the guided vatican tour, so were able to skip the long line of people waiting along the wall to get in, and also took the exit from the sistine chapel into the basilica (great tip!) so avoided the security line-up outside. i can't wait to go back! miki s bc canada 03/01/2008 My only suggestion would be to include La Baia Di Rio in Riomaggiore and B&B Pascucci in Rome under accomodations. I feel that both fit the "Rick Steves" type of accomodations! Robert Villigram in St. Louis, MO USA 02/28/2008 Traveling in Tuscany during the heat of summer, I found Montepulciano the place to be. According to Rick, nobels maintained summer palaces here to escape the summer heat. While there, I discovered a lovely red wine called 'Vino Nobile' during a tasting at the Cantine Cantucci as highlighted in one of Rick's Italian shows. Delicioso! Gary Y. in Mission Viejo, CA USA 02/23/2008 Please add information about Sicily
Jeanne Galvin, Jgalvin2@optonline.net Jeanne Galvin in Malverne, NY USA 02/12/2008 We visited Italy in October, 2007 using your guidebook and we had a wonderful time!!! We followed your tips and all went well. We especially enjoyed the Dolomites, Cinque Terre, Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast and Rome....my hats off to you Rick...you did a wonderful job with these guidebooks... DELIA EPIE in CLOVIS, CA USA 02/12/2008 I love the Italy 2007 book. I have read many different guides but this one never left my hand. We actually ran into some new friends on the trip and they actually picked up this book while in Italy after seeing so many people with it. It took us through Tuscany, Rome and the Cinque Terre. We made use of your guides through Museums, the hike of the Cinque Terre and your travel info. Great book, highly recommended. Tara Dickie in Warwick, Bermuda 01/26/2008 We drove throughout Italy with our 2 children and I would recommend the following: When traveling to Rome, park your car at the outskirts of the city and take the Metro (M) into the city. We drove to the Tiburtina station and took the Metro - B line to the Termini where we tranferred to line A for a full day of walking the city. The locked parking lot was adjacent to the Metro for 10 Euro/day and was open until mid-night if one was doing a day trip only. Another note on Rome. if you go by car on the weekend, arrive on Friday or Saturday and leave on Sunday. You will be going against the traffic jams!
Another tip, get a GPS with a European map. Eventhough I have driven throughout Europe numerous times, I still make wrong turns or miss a sign or the map i have is not quite right. A GPS would save time and reduce some of the stress.
A favorite town that we encountered was Castellina in Chianti
A very centralized city in the heart of Tuscany surrounded by vineyards and Etruscan tombs that you can walk into without crowds or fees. Florence, Siena and San Gimignano were all less than 20kms away and was very relaxing and friendly after spending a day touring the area. The restaurants were fantastic with a pizzeria/anti-pastsi bar that was phenominal. Greg DiGregorio in Broomfield, CO USA 01/06/2008 We stayed at the Hotel Principe in Florence, Italy. The hotel is not in the guidebook - but it is an excellent fasmily run "Classic Italy" style hotel. It's on the Arno just a few bocks from the historic section - so everything is close, but it's still quiet. The rooms are great (ours had a balcony overlooking the river) and the free breakfast includes eggs and omelettes. The best part is the staff. Very helpful and friendly. Giulano, the owner, spent time with us talking about the hotel's fascinating history (built for a mistress of the King) and life in Italy in general. We will defnitely stay here again. I am suggesting you try this hotel and add it to your guidebook. Kent Campbell in Carlsbad, CA USA 12/20/2007 My son and I flew to Italy from Madrid,and stayed 11/26 to 12/4. This guidebook proved invaluable. I found the Hotel Aberdeen to be delightful and well situated to many of the sights of Rome. We used the guidebook to walk to the Colosseum, tour the Forum and found a great guide for the Vatican through Through Eternity tours. We did eat at the Caffe dello Studente and while my panini was not the best I've had, Simona gave us a wonderful welcome. Prior to staying in Rome, my son and I took the train up to Cinqueterra and stayed for four nights at the Locanda il Maestrale. Stefania and Giovanni were friendly and helpful. Breakfast was in a lovely room and included fresh pastries and boiled eggs. A good eating place was the Ristorante Belvedere. Most of the recommended eating places were closed when we were there, although there were other good restaurants. Took a train to Genoa to meet our cousin who took us to a wonderful local restaurant called Sa Pesto--great farinata--a foccacia made with chick pea flour. Fresh pasta with a flavorful pesto sauce, fresh anchovies. Great tour of Palantine Hill with Hannah (Australian) from Roberto's Walking Tours in Rome. Marie Lavendier in Unionville, Ct USA 12/14/2007 Hotel Elda in Siena - we stayed there in November during low season and the rate was very reasonable (100E/nt) and the accommodations were fabulous. The B&B is an easy walk from the central district, the room was large and comfortable with a great bed and the best bath room we had in Italy, and the view was breath taking. From our window we could watch the sun rise over Siena, and from the roof top desk we watched the sun set over Tuscany. The staff was very helpful and breakfast was delicious. It was truly a 4 star experience on a 2 star budget. Ann Stafford in Austin, TX USA 12/06/2007 I'd like to recommed the Vigna Sant'Elena and Villa Germaine agriturismo in Arricia near Castel Gandolfo south of Rome. It is a beautiful winery and farm with a very good restaurant. The room was fantastic, very cozy and well-decorated, and the family treated us great. They have a vineyard, olive groves, citrus groves, farm animals, and a garden for their restaurant. They also provide a breakfast every morning, which I think is rare at agriturismos. The location is very centrally located. We drove all throughout the regions hilltowns and to Anzio and Rome without much difficulty (always get GPS in your rental). Chris in Lafayette, CO USA 12/04/2007 Hotel Corona d'Italia in Florence - simply the best hotel we stayed at the whole time in Italy - 90euro per night, great location 2-3 blocks from stazione, walking distance to most downtown sights and great restaurants. BEST SERVICE we had at a hotel in Italy - above and beyond with a great lounge area and bar on the main floor, outstanding breakfasts, comfy and surprisingly roomy bedrooms. MUST STAY! The staff was over-the-top with fantastic service. A true find, should really be in your book. Hotel Corona d'Italia: Via Nazionale, 14 - Firenze. Tel - 055.261.501. www.hotelcoronaditalia.com info@hotelcoronaditalia.it
Also, the best meal we had in Sorrento was hands-down at the Mayflower restaurant near the train station. Please mention. It was possibly one of the best meals we had in all of Italy - great flavor and fantastic service, but a deceiving strip-mall location makes it look like it will just be run of the mill, but it is anything but! Mayflower Ristorante - Sorrento, Tel 081.8075809
We also discovered a "Fort Hike" through the backyards and trails of Capri, which was the best surprise. The hike has a rudimentary map on ceramic tile and we ended up on it for a couple hours. It begins nonchalantly enough but then takes you along the coastline, from the east to west end of the island along the southern edge. It was a true gem and pleasure to find; despite the hoardes of Cruiseship tourists that day and the 70degree weather, we only saw one other couple out hiking it the whole time. It connected us to the Blue Grotto as well and it was a great way to unwind, get away from the tourist traps and tourists, and see the real Capri island. At one point you go from modest backyards and people's garages all the way to overlooking the mansions with pools over the water's edge. It was spectacular - please check it out and mention for Italy travelers who are trying to escape the shopping!
In Sorrento - "Pizzeria" Gelato on Corso Italia - the best gelato we had in all of Italy. Creamy every time, soft and delicious. Sometimes the gelato was harder and less tasty and fresh. They have fun pictures plastered over their walls and ceilings with hot guys and gals dipping themselves in chocolate as a promotional stunt, famous Italians who have come by the gelato stand etc. Fun atmosphere and the best gelato. Taya Rotering in Minneapolis, MN USA 11/30/2007 Validate! Those little yellow boxes at the train stations are often crowded out, or in a rush one might forget to validate the ticket, but this new posting seems to be serious:
"New regulations for anyone traveling without a valid ticket come into force on 17 September 2007. Ticket inspections will be increased on trains and at the stations. Penalty fee, in addition to cost of ticket: Payment on train or at station upon arrival: 50 Euro Payment within 15 days up to 116 Euros Payment after 15 days: up to 224 Euros www.ferroviedellostato.it" (can't find an English translation site)
Also, there seems to be a small coin market open on Sunday mornings from about 9-1 around the back of the post office in Milan, just beyond the Piazza del Duomo.
And, a specific travel agency near the Rialto Bridge that is an authorized agent for Trenitalia is Kele & Teo Viaggi Tourism, on Marzaria Del Capitello, at the head of some steps. We needed to book Eurostar tix. We were told at our hotel that there would not be a transaction fee, but there was one, for only 1 euro.
Also, you may wish to check on Hotel Luciani, around the quieter side of Rome's Termini: Hotel Luciani Via Milazzo, 8, 00185 , Roma, Italy, Fax : +39 (06) 97612699, Phone : +39 (06) 491327, Phone : +39 (06) 490659, info@hotelluciani.it We found it cheap, simple and quite adequate. The managers were extremely pleasant. They had 2 computers in the lobby for guest use (requesting 1 or 1-1/2 euros for a little bit of time, but they waived it for us). What attraced me to their site (other than Trip Advisor.com general recommendations was their "Peace Pole" in the lobby that says, "May Peace Prevail on Earth" in 4 languages. We stayed there in November, and while it wasn't whisper-quiet due to its proximity to the station it was OK.
Finally, we took the Autostradale tour bus in order to see the sold-out Last Supper (that was a great suggestion, not because the tour was so dazzling but because it was the last ditch way for us to see the LS). However, in the Scala museum tour (pp247 and 258) that was part of the tour we were amused to see that Verdi's death mask cast contained some actual whiskers from the casting! Ouch! Well, maybe not.
Laura in Redding, USA 11/28/2007 I really enjoyed Basilica San Clemente in Rome, near the Colosseum on Plazza San Clemente, not mentioned in the guidebook. It was 5 Euros extremely well spent. The top level is the 12 century church with incredible and approachable frescoes. Then there is the excavated 6th century church below the current church that is beautiful in its own way. Finally, below the two churches is an excavated 2nd century Mithraic temple. This church is much nicer and more educational than many churches that are mentioned in the guidebook. Craig in Portland, OR USA 11/27/2007 Chiusi -- fantastic Etruscan, Roman, and Renaissance art and artifacts. Fascinating underground tours. Not very touristy, but easily accessible by train or car. Jill Grigsby in Claremont, CA USA 11/23/2007 Train from Venice to Florence...drive through Tuscany. We loved driving...it was a little tricky, but not too bad, and the way to go! Carol Dierkes in Hartford, Mi USA 11/19/2007 Florence - We went on 3 tours with "Walking Tours of Florence" and they were all excellent! We stayed at Residenza il Villino and it was wonderful with 2 computers available for guests. Osteria-Pizzeria Zio Gigi at Via F. Portinary 7/R was the best restaurant we ate at in Florence. Shelley in St. Louis , MO USA 11/18/2007 I originally wasn't going to spend any time in Venice because I thought it was nothing more than a tourist trap. I was convinced to go because I was told by friends that "you have to go to Venice". We spent two days and nights there. What a place! We wished that that had planned more time there , but who knew? The town is magical. My wife and I went on a one hour gondola ride at night (pretty cheesy right?)but it was an incredible, mostly silent trip through some of the narrow back canals. We were not on a tour but travelled by ourselfs on a trip planned using "Rick Steves' Italy 2007". We hope to return someday. John in Newtown Square, PA USA 11/14/2007 YES! Mami Camilla's B&B. It is in Sorrento. It is a little far from the main center of town, but it is on the Orange bus route which drops you off in the main piazza in Sorrento. They provide on-line booking, cooking classes from a professional chef, Internet access, Amalfi tours, and 15 Euro dinners prepared by the chef and his students. It is a bit rustic, and the rooms are in buildings scattered around their large citrus/olive grove. I cannot recommend it enough. They speak English, too. Barry DeVine in Eugene, OR USA 11/14/2007 We stayed 5 nights at the Palazzo Minciotti in Assisi, Umbria Italy and I have to say that it was the most incredible apartment that we have ever sublet. The apartment we stayed in was the San Rufino with 3 large bedrooms and 2 bathrooms with a separate kitchen and a large living area. The host, Anna Maria Minciotti, was very gracious and furnished the apartment with everything conceivable that a traveler could need. The location is at one end of the town near the Church of San Rufino. This location is perfect for those who have a car because it is a short distance to the underground Matteotti parking lot. Wake up each morning to the church bells and gaze out any window for an incredible view of the Church, the hillside and fortress above the town or the Umbrian valley as the sun starts to chase the early morning fog away. Then walk downstairs to a very nice coffee and pastry shop with internet access or directly across the street to shop that sells delicious paninis and pizzas. Try the potato pizza for breakfast with thin crisply seasoned potato slices on top of an incredibly delicious pizza. Walk and shop the beautiful and when you come back to Palazzo Minciotti in the evening open the windows and watch time come slowly to a halt. Incredible! Patrick Elder in Oklahoma City, OK USA 11/13/2007 Your staff (Paul Orcutt) responded to my question about local wines. (Specifically, are there added sulfites.) He gave us a great answer, and using it my husband was able to drink wine for the first time in years. We enjoyed the local wine and cuisine without worry (but did stay away from bottled wines, all of which carried the dreaded "Contains Sulfites" warning.) Thanks. Marian in Orange County , CA USA 11/12/2007 Rome: Fior di Luna Gelateria In the heart of Trastevere, there is a gelateria called Fior Di Luna featuring freshly made Gelato from all organic ingredients by friendly brothers Aldo and Fabio (who also speak English). Their fruit and nut- flavored gelato is the best, made from the real thing only days after being picked. http://www.fiordiluna.com/ D in San Francisco, CA USA 11/11/2007 We liked the restaurants recommended by Casa Santo Nome di Gesu in Florence. Ristorante Totó at Borgo SS Apostoli 6r and Trattoria l'Brindellone (around the corner from the hotel). ping wang in Lausanne, Switzerland 11/11/2007 I want to thank all the people at Through Eternity Tours for the wonderful experience that my wife and I had during our eight days in Rome. I realize that many people would not decide to have eight days of private tours, but we found it a most rewarding and comfortable experience. All of the tour guides assigned to us were extremely informative, and they all went the extra mile to make our visit less difficult by calling taxis and finding restaurants, grocery stores, and even park benches. We highly recommend that any future visitor to Rome consider having one or more private tours with your company. For us, tour guides are the best way to see and learn about Rome. As we review the hundreds of pictures we took, we remember fondly how the guides explained the sights and answered our questions. We highly recommend Through Eternity Tours to anyone who is seriously, and even moderately interested, in learning about ancient Roman history. If all goes well, we would like to return to Rome perhaps in May of 2008. Carol in Mesa, AZ USA 11/09/2007 Florence - I' Brindellone restaurant across the river near P. Piatellina. Small, locals only place with a great value lunch menu. Doug Floore in Albuquerque, NM USA 11/09/2007 Many national and historical sites allow free entries to Canadians over 65 with proof of citizenship and age (ie: Driver's Licence or Passport). My husband and I were in southern Italy last month. He (a Canadian senior) visited, for free, the Colosseum in Rome, Pompeii, Paestum, Napoli Museum, and the Reggia in Caserta. He just had to show them his Canadian ID. What a pleasant surprise. We were told by the tourist office in Pompeii that Canadians over 65 have free entries to most (not all) national historic sites in Italy.
Unfortunately, this freebie is not available to Americans.
Love your guide books and PBS shows. And keep up the good work. Sylvia Lim in Vancouver, BC Canada 11/07/2007 This one tip alone is worth the price of the Italy guide book: buy the Roma Pass. The time spent finding the TI at the Roma Termini to buy the pass is more than made up by the time you save at the Coloseum. Also, we may have just been lucky, but we were able to enter four attractions on the pass without having to pay. Among those was the newly opened Trajan's Market, which was very enjoyable, in part because of the excellent video diagrams of the ruins. James in Durham, NC USA 11/07/2007 Context Rome Tours. We took 4 small group (6 or less) tours with this company, 2 in Rome and 2 in Florence. All were excellent, led by guides with advanced degrees in Art History. This was especially helpful at the Borghese Gallery in Rome, where you are booted out after only two hours. We feel we saw and understood much more than if we were muddling through reading a guidebook. Sure the tours are expensive, but well worth it. Ed in Seattle, WA Ed Deal in Seattle, WA USA 11/07/2007 Florence was fabulous! We stayed at a brand new B&B that was recommended to us from one of your recommendations when they were full. Its called Lanterna Fiorentina. The website is http://www.lanternafiorentina.it/index.eng.html. The woman who ownes it is Gianna who is wonderful. She is happy to make reservations for the Accedemia and the Uffizi. It is a 10 minute walk from the train station and a 10 minute walk to the Duomo. Gianna re-did each room when she started the b&b with very nice furnishings. The bathroom was completely new. What a great place!
Also in Florence was the restaurant Auqua del 2. It was fabulous and has a steak with blueberry sauce and was delishious! We went back two nights in a row.
And for the last florence addition-- Tuscus Wine Tours with Todd was great! http://www.tuscan-wine-tours.com/index.htm Todd is a wonderful tour guide and guided us through one of our best days of the trip. 2 wineries and lunch. Perfect.
Alexis Bock in Washington, DC USA 11/04/2007 We went to the Vatican at 3 p.m. on a Tuesday, and there was no line! Great way to breeze through the Sistine Chapel, the Basilica, and Vatican Square if you are pressed for time!
Found a nice little local restaurant in Florence. Great beef stew and risotto with duck breast. It is called Osteria Cocotrippone, (di Filippo Baldini), Via Gioberti, 140/r-Firenze-Tel. e FAX 055 2347527, on the electric mini-van route A. Linda Hornbeck in Torrance, CA USA 11/03/2007 Borghese Gallery in Rome, Italy: My husband and I were late 15 minutes for our reservation but they let us in anyway! Jessie in Chicago, IL USA 11/03/2007 Osteria Quatro Pass, via XX Settembre, 20 Varenna, (Lecco) tel. 041.815.091 welcoming, charming decor, good food and wine; francine faribault in Montréal, Qc CANADA 11/02/2007 Sirius Hotel - This hotel was not in the guide book about Italy. In fact, Perugia was not even in your book. We love this hotel and have stayed there on two different trips. It is a great base for visiting a number of hill towns in Italy, namely Perugia, Deruta (great for ceramics), Assisi, Gubbio, Orvieto, Civita de Bonareggio, Cortona, just to name a few. The hotel is out in the country on the top of a very high hill. Instead of city traffic, you hear birds singing. You do need a car to get there, but the rewards are a great view of Perugia (and Assisi in the distance)seen from a beautiful terrace, a very quiet hotel, and most of all, a wonderful experience getting to know Guiseppe Angeli, his wife Kula and their son Spiro. The hotel has extremely reasonable rates that include breakfast (€48 for a single and €65 for a double - slightly more during high season and holidays). It is reasonably close to restaurants. One of our favorites was part of a nearby amusement park (great for kids) and also with a great view. Perugia is a wonderful city to explore. It has easy access with a parking lot at the bottom of the hill and escalators that take you up to the center of town. The escalators literally take you through layers of history, going through rooms created by the Etruscans and Romans. The town is basically a university town and you can often witness new graduates celebrating in the streets. There are many medieval streets to explore, lots of which do not have cars. It is also the chocolate capital of Italy. Many shops carry their famous chocolate and there is a chocolate festival in October.
Sirius Hotel Via P. Guardiano,9 06131 Perugia Italy tel. (39)75-690-921 fax (39)75-690-923 website: http//www.siriush.com e-mail: Angeli.Giuseppe.@siriush.com Pat McClung in Mt. Pleasant, TX USA 11/02/2007 In Rome, book a walking tour with Angel Tours. You can email a booking without having to give them your credit card at info@angeltoursrome.com. The tours cost 25 Euro plus the cost of admission tickets and the guides are Irish or English and wonderful. We did the Colosseum and Vatican Tour with them just last week, wonderful, knowledgeable, passionate about history, great value. Also, a wonderful hotel in Rome not in the book Arena House, it's near the Colosseum, wonderful helpful Vincent speaks excellent English, a frig in your room and one in the hallway and computer and internet in each room for 120 Euro a night. In the middle of the city and so quiet at night. Address via Marco Aurelio, 37, Rome Tel.0039 06 97615384 Fax.0039 06 97615384 Email at info@arenahouse.com Chere Weiss in Kelso, WA USA 10/29/2007 If staying in The Cinque Terre, we can recommend Egi Rooms in Vernazza. Egi is most hospitable, knowledgable, charming and helpful. He met us at the train station and carried our luggage to his hotel, and up the stairs. We had a large, comfortable room with a kitchen for 110 euros per night. The location was great, but then, Vernazza is not that large a village. David Reiser in Cadillac, Mi USA 10/29/2007 The Siena restaurant Osteria Enoteca Sotto le Fonti was one of the best we experienced in Italy (which puts it in a rare class indeed.) While it is slightly off the main drags of Siena, it was no further from the center than several of the other restaurants. Josh Zimmerman in Salt Lake City, UT USA 10/28/2007 We understand from Dino at Il Nido in Sorrento that this great place will not be included in your 2008 edition. Please reconsider! This was a great place, phenomenal value, and the whole family couldn't have been more accomodating. Rick -- it was an excellent recommendation! Rick Peterman in Marion, MD USA 10/27/2007 Suggestion: A convenient way to carry back-up copies of important documents is on a USB flash drive. We scanned our passports, reservations, credit cards, rental car voucher, etc. on our PC and saved them as .pdf files along on a memory stick. Fortunately, we didn't need it, but in event of loss or theft, we could have accessed the information at almost any hotel of internet point. This seems an obvious thing to do but I haven't noticed the suggestion in any guidebook. Murray Duke in Ottawa, ON Canada 10/26/2007 Consider adding a blurb about their obsession with giving you your receipt. It was very amusing that they would not let you leave (holding up a hand, telling you to wait)until they firmly placed the tiny scrap of paper in front of you documenting the 1.50 gelato you were happily munching. What gives with this? Anne in Spencer, SC USA 10/23/2007 How about more info on Sicily? We finished our 2wk trip in Cefalu and had a great time! (you were dead on about the Germans!) Frank Washburn in Orogon City, OR USA 10/22/2007 GENIUS LOCI COUNTRY INN in UMBRIA (www.geniuslociumbria.com) closes its first successful year of operation on Nov. 5. We have so many Rick Steves readers to thank, some of whom have already returned a second time in these few months. Two of you have already booked a stay during the early Easter week in March, 2008. We have lots of surprises planned for those who spend at least 3 nights during the Easter week (an Easter Egg hunt, a drawing with prizes and a BONUS), a typical Umbrian Easter Sunday breakfast and a wine and olive oil tasting in our own winery. Book your Easter stay while rooms are still available. And again, a HUGE THANK YOU FOR THIS SUCCESSFUL FIRST YEAR. Your enthusiastic response to our new inn has been wonderful! Mary and Michael - www.geniuslociumbria.com Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna PG, Italy 10/22/2007 You should include the La Bottega Del Gelato Piazza Garibaldi Giuseppe, 11, Pisa Italy in your guidelook. The gelato was the best I had in Italy. The gelato store was passed during the walking tour of Pisa sighted in your guidebook. A. Overen in Montgomery, Al USA 10/19/2007 A great restaurant in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome is Da Giggetto at Portico d'Ottavia 21/22. It is right next to an excavated Roman temple that was dedicated by an emperor to his sister. Very romantic and the food was wonderful, veal escalope and eggplant parmesan to die for. The artichoke and cod starters were the best. Opens at 7:30. Tel:06 6861105
Scuola San Rocca in Venice is definitely worth a visit. The ceilings were amazing. We were so glad that we did not miss this.Use the mirrors, it saves the neck. L M Stewman TX USA 10/19/2007 Sicily. RS has already discovered Sicily and runs tours there, but does not include in Italy book. The coastal areas are especially beautiful and interesting. Highlights of our 8 days in Sicily were Taormina, Mt. Etna, Cefalu, Lipari in the Aeolian Islands, and Scopello. Ron in DeWitt, MI USA 10/17/2007 Please put more urgent warnings in your book about the dangers of sudden large waves on the coast of Cinque Terre. See this link for one of the latest tragic casualties. http://www.granvillesentinel.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20071011/NEWS01/71011011 Cindy in Cumming, GA USA 10/13/2007 Addition of Restaurant in Rome. "Osteria Roma" I could not get an exact address but I think it is in a little alley (just wide enough for a vehicle) just South of Piazza Navona between Via de la Cuccagna and Piazza di Massimi. Pieter Booth in Kent, wa USA 10/10/2007 The town of Mestre, on the mainland from Venice, is a nice alternative to the high costs of Venice hotels. We found a great hotel (I forgot the name) next to the train station. It was only 3 Euros on the "Blue Bus" from the airport to the train station and only 1 Euro from the Mestre train station to Venice's Santa Lucia train station. You can catch any east-bound train and get off in 5 minutes and be in Venice, the same holds true for west-bound trains, all stop in Mestre. Mark Olsen in Flagstaff, AZ USA 10/09/2007 Following a tip posted on one of these feedback pages, we stayed at Gianicolo's Home B&B. This is rather upscale apartment family home of Valentina Schiaroli, who fixed us two marvelous breakfasts, one including eggs (rare in Italy). It is located in a residential neighborhood on the Gianicolo hill. It is a leisurely half-hour garden-like walk to St. Peter's, and a 20 minute walk to Trastevere. The apartment features a terrace with views of the green neighborhood. There are convenient buses to the major tourist areas, but we chose to use taxis. For the price this is a step up from the usual accommodation. As is often the case in Italy, there is traffic noise until 10 p.m. Contact info: vschiaroli@hotmail.com. website:http://www.gianicolo-bb.it/in/home.htm Jim & Megan Taylor in Seattle, WA USA 10/09/2007 Ristorante Il Cavaliere, 50129 Firenze, Viale Spartaco Lavagnini, 22, 055 471914
Large salad buffet at Ristorante Vecchia Roma, Via della Tribuna di Campitelli 18, www.ristorantevecchiaroma.com John Watson in Houston, TX USA 10/06/2007 We d iscovered a truly charming bed and breakfast in the heart of Rome that deserves to be included. At just 80 euro per night, Anna Rosa's Bed & Breakfast remains on of our best memories! Upon arrival, we were met by Anna Rosa herself who gave us a welcome "Italian style" which included a hug and kiss on the cheek! The "apartment" included a spacious room with private bath - both decorated in a lovely "Old Italy" style, a shared "family" dining room and kitchen (fully stocked for travellers). You felt at home instantly and everything was spanking clean. Contact information: Anna Rosa's B&B, via Principe Amedeo, n. 165, Rome 00185 Italy. ph. +39 06 7915020 Sandy in Harris, MN USA 10/06/2007 My husband and I recently went to Italy for our honeymoon and brought along Rick Steve's guidebook. It was the best investment we made for the trip. We ate at only Rick Steve's recommended restaurants and were amazed at the hospitality and delicious food we received. Mikki at Miscellaneous in Rome was so kind to us that we had to take a picture to remember him by. 1000 thanks for writing and researching the perfect book to travel through Italy with. (By the way, we ran into some old locals on the Cichetti bar tour that showed us a really, really good time--on our first night in Venice, we did as the locals did, and it was GOOD!) Don and Judy Rohn in Redondo Beach, CA USA 10/05/2007 Tip: If you are renting a car with GPS, be sure to get the portable GPS, not the built in, as they work better in the close quarters of Italian cities. Also, have the staff change the GPS to your native languange, and make sure they load the correct disk so that you have information available at the street level. Having the Autostrada is fine, but you need the street level information to get to your hotel. Danielle Lambert in Lake Oswego, OR USA 10/04/2007 Cinque Terre hike -- We hiked fom Vernazza TO Corniglia and I would highly recommend taking the train to Corniglia and hiking the other way (toward Vernazza). My husband and I are in our early 50's and hike often -- this was one of the hardest hikes I have done -- estimate 1000's of steep stone steps -- beautiful scenery and we were proud of the accomplishment but take plenty of water if you go on this route! Dont forget the camera - click, click, click! Tandy VA USA 10/02/2007 Hotel Continental, Vicenza, Viale G.G. Trissino, 89 36100 Vicenza, rel +39 0444 505476/78, Fax +39 0444 513319, Wonderful staff, feels like a business traveller's hotel, we had a refurbished room which felt very Scandanavian, very clean. DB 89 euro in Sept 2007. We asked for a dinner recommendation. "It's Monday, there's only one place." It was a quick walk around the corner and the almost the best food we had in Italy (my husband's starter wife was Italian, so he has experience with real Italian cooking.)
Il Picchio D'Oro, Via G.G. Trissino, 153--36100 Vicenza, Tel. 0444 504 238, Family run, full of locals. No one spoke much English, but it wasn't a problem. My husband pointed to the bottle of water and asked for glasses for the water. She brought them, set them down firmly, looked him in the eye and said clearly, "bichiere." You have to love a place that takes the time to help visitors improve their Italian.
We had fresh sea bass baked with olive oil; Gnocchi with a sauce of shrimp, zucchini and caviar; Truffle ice cream called tartuffo bianco. A nice wine--the waiter's English and our Italian failed at the same time--he said, "I bring a 1/4 liter to see if you like it." We did and ordered more. Good food, reasonable price, wonderful service. Diane Flindt in Sugar Land, TX USA 09/30/2007 Money Madness: We took enough American money to get us to our hotel just in case the bankomats did not work on arrival at the airport. Could have quickly exchanged dollars for euros(if needed)to get us on the train, bus, shuttle or taxi.
Musicals: We attended the Sorrento Musical on a Sunday night in Sorrento, then found a great Opera performance in Rome's St. Paul's within the walls (near Termini). The Opera was very powerful. No electronics, no amplification, just wonderful musicians and singers using natural accoustics. Booked though: classictic.com
Pantheon: Go to the Pantheon early in the morning. No one is there. You have the place all to yourself.
Travel on the Eletrico Minibuses when possible. Less intense than the metro or big city buses. Furnancefighter in Philadelphia, PA USA 09/29/2007 A great restuarant in Rome is DoDo at Via dei Serpenti, 87, Excellent food, friendly smiling faces and great prices. I don't know what time it opens and closes, but it was open on Sunday evening, that's why we ate there. Beth Nolan in Dover, Fl USA 09/28/2007 Having advance tickets to the Accademia and Uffizi in Florence has its plusses, but buyer beware. I would make sure that my plans did not include these attractions to be seen on a Sunday. The Italians like to Strike on that day. Not only was our scheduled Sunday musuem day spoiled, on our return the following Thursday, there was a sign posted on the Accademia Door of a possible strike for the coming Sunday. So, you take your chances with the Sunday reservations and a once in a lifetime experience. Karen in Palatine, IL USA 09/28/2007 When visiting Venice, we stay at the Best Western Biasutti Hotel on Lido Island. A delightful hotel away from busy Venice and only 8 minutes by water taxi. The island is small and only a 10 minute walk across the island to the Asiatic Coast. Beautiful! And the food is very good! Cynthia A. Brewer in Gilbert, AZ USA 09/27/2007 Italy; Venezia. Wonderful accomodations at Hotel Tivoli. Clean, secure and reasonably priced. Highly recommended. John E. White in Altadena, CA USA 09/27/2007 We "did" Rome in a day by 4 quick taxi trips from the train station to Colosseum/Forum, then Vatican, then Pantheon, then return to the station. Walked the rest of our way around Rome via the Piazza Navrona,Piazza Pietra, the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, & Via del Corso shops. We found the taxi method comparable to the Hop On/Hop Off Bus prices, with a lot less hassle and saved wear & tear on feet and nerves. We were amazed we saw so much and still had time for gelato, panini under the Arch of Constantine lunch, and dinner at a nice trattoria. Deb Kozak in Redmond, WA USA 09/25/2007 Email your hotel from home for specific directions from the airport, bus, or train station. They will have directions using public transportation. Actually many even have a web site with this information. Lowell Houghton in Sylmar, CA USA 09/23/2007 Add the Segway tour in Florence. They do English tours twice a day. It was a wonderful way to get the feel of a new place and SO much fun! Mary in Boulder, CO USA 09/22/2007 Helen Donegan at italywithus.com has after hours tours of the Vatican Museums and the Sistine chapel that are fabulous. Her guides are extremely knowledgeable and the groups are limited to about 20. An incredible experience well worth the €250 price. Really! Janet Thomson in Buttonwillow, CA USA 09/21/2007 Our favaorite place was Capri and Anacapri. We stayed in a place called Hotel Casa Caprile. (www.casacaprile.com) Fabio Rusconi was more than helpful in our bookings, local information and bookings in other cities, without charge. The hotel is very small, but nice rooms with cold air conditioning! The only downside is that you have to walk down about 75 yards worth of slight steps to get to the hotel. The restaurants around the little sleepy town are great. Especially drinking with Anna and friends at Bar Bloom, via Caprile 5b. Good drink prices and I was able to sample and drink her family's homemade wine. Anna is the owner and her good friend Alessandro who is a local phtographer, was there every night and both speak good english. In Capri, I recommend a local spot called Bucca di Bacco. Through the center square and all the locals recommended going there. scott in dallas, tx USA 09/20/2007 I just read most of the feedbacks and there are a lot of disappointed people because there is no info on Southern Italy!! The book's name is ITALY, so it's not just Vnice, Florence, Rome and Cinque Terre, right? I love Rick, I love his books and his shows, but ITALY stops at ROME. Incredible! You HAVE TO include Southern Italy or don't call the book ITALY. Unfortuanely I'm stuck with the book for the next year as well, as I bought the 2008 version... Victoria in houston, tx USA 09/16/2007 I must highly recommend adding the Hotel Lato Azzuro on San Erasmo island in Venice. Picture'esque former home converted into a hotel that is run by a warm and affectionate group of individuals. A private room for two people was around 75 euros a night and the staff was extremely friendly. My girlfriend and I felt like we were the only non-locals on the entire island when we were there. A real slice of Italian life away from the hustle and bustle of Venice. Kevin in Bakersfield, CA USA 09/15/2007 Must agree with a previous poster about BarDavi in Cinque Terra (Monterosso al Mare). Food was very average, eggs were runny, and the owners were not particularly friendly to myself or my girlfriend until after we paid for the bill and tipped.
On the opposite tip, however, I highly recommend the Ristorante Ciak just down the street from BarDavi. It is a tad pricy but was some of the best food I had in all of Italy, especially the shrimp raviolis that was served in a terracota pot. Fantastic. Kevin in Bakersfield, CA USA 09/15/2007 Cinque Terre: I cant believe you actually recommend this location. The towns are unbelievably touristy with virtually not a single store worth seeing. The towns themselves might have been charming once upon a time, but are now overrun with tourists and crappy stores that cater to them.
Much better than the Cinque Terre is the town of Lerici, which is developed but not overly so, and which has the most magnificient architectural features without having been cursed by the term of being one of the Cinque Terre.
Two days at Cinque Terre? Please. Let them be. If you must come to this area, Lerici is the pick. Michael in Sweda, MD USA 09/11/2007 Istituto Raffaele (Estetica di Caccavo R. &Figli Snc, 12, via Porta Rossa 50100 (50123?) Tel. (011+31) 055216460) is a great place to get a pedicure,etc right near the Uffizi Gallery. Bring Uffizi there when they hurt!! It's a family business run by Raffaele Caccavo, an octogenarian, and his 5 sons Marco, Paolo, Simone, Stefano, and Alessandro. It is warm and unpretentious!
Also,Ca'Madonna is a sweet little apartment in Venice run by a very sweet couple. It makes a great base of operations for sightseeing, is in a great little (real!) neighborhood where children walk by on their way to school, with a vegetable market and grocery stores nearby. Maria is an English teacher. Her husband Leo is an artist, and his lovely paintings of Venice decorate the apartment, which has 1 master bedroom, a bunkbed and a child-sized day bed available, along with cute little kitchen and bathroom. The apartment is in a historic building, the birthplace and home of Francesco Guardi, the artist. Maria and Leo kindly met us at the boat, late at night when we came in after very long 2 days of travel, took some luggage off our hands, and walked us to the apartment! They were lovely people and helped us get oriented to Venice. The info is: “Ca’Madonna”, tel: 338 713 4203 – Maria, mariab49@virgilio.it and please tell her that Carey and Jim sent you! We want her to know how grateful we are for their going beyond the call of duty. They even sent a few e-mails for us, as we had left something at home and there were problems to overcome!
And, a great little restaurant around the corner from Piazza Navona in Rome, was Antica Trattoria LA SCALETTA Degli Artisti, Via di Santa Maria dell'Anima, 56, Roma tel 06 /68.80.18.72
We enjoyed Hotel Azzi in Florence and Villa Lituania in Rome. I am happy to describe them if you contact me. Carey Caccavo Wheaton in Sebastopol, CA USA 09/07/2007 After I submitted Feedback here, I then placed graffiti on your Mouthwatering Italy site. After I did that posting, I read the site and found two more postings from two other people who had the same wonderful experience I did at Sotto le Fonti in Siena.
Sotto le Fonti looks 3 for 3. It's everything I would expect from a Rick Steve recommendation. Please list it in your guidebooks. Future readers will be glad you did. Mike Sulaver in San Jose, CA USA 09/02/2007 We discovered a wonderful neighborhood restaurant in Siena just outside the old city wall. We emphatically recommend you visit it because of the food, ambience, and hospitality of the owners. The meal was fantastic, the best we had in Italy, and the seasonal fig cake from their own figs was exceptional.
We found it by asking locals for recommendations. A local recommended Sotto le Fonti and called for us. When we arrived, Britta met us at the door.
The contact info is: Britta Rogge, Sotto le Fonti, Via Esterna Fontebranda 118, tel. 0577.22.64.46, www.sottolefonti.it; sottolefonti@hotmail.com. Mike Sulaver in San Jose, CA USA 09/02/2007 Again, I want to thank the many Rick Steves readers who have been our guests at GENIUS LOCI COUNTRY INN in Umbria(www.geniuslociumbria.com). Your enthusiasm tells us we are doing things right at our new inn and your promises to return mean so much to us. To other Rick Steves' readers who come for a stay in September and October, we offer a complimentary bottle of our vintage wine. Fall is a splendid time to visit Umbria, during our grape harvest. Thanks again for your strong support these first 4 months of operation. Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna PG, Italy 09/01/2007 As a graduate student studying at the Loyola Chicago Rome Center, my fellow travel mates and I found your Italy guidebook indispensable. Your tips on Rome, Florence and Cinque Terre made our experience stress free and gave us the experience of a lifetime. We can't thank you enough.
We would disagree on only one thing. Upon arriving in Roimaggiore we saw the sign for Mamma Rosa's Hostel, which you wrote was on the bottom end of accommodations. Mamma Rosa could not have been more friendly and when we told her we found her place from your book her face lit up, "Ricky Stevy, he big, wife small", making the gestures with her hands.
The problem was the room and the bed bugs that my mates and I itched for the remainder of our stay in Italy. The showers and bathrooms were disgusting. We just feel that if you or someone from your group goes through there again, you might want to rethink the inclusion of Mamma Rossa in your book. We wouldn't have enjoyed the trip as much without your book and hate to slight Mamma but you should rethink her "spaccio" in future editions. I am planning a trip to Florence and the Tuscan Region in the spring and I am buying the new edition to begin planning. Thank you. Philip M. Johnson in Chicago, Il USA 08/28/2007 Traveling by car for 3 weeks in May was a dream: perfect weather, medium sized crowds, no school groups, road traffic normal (except Milan at morning rush hour). Thank you, Rick, for suggesting travel during the "shoulder months." My best tip: Buy an Italian Travel Language CD and study it for a month before you go. Knowing the basics of the language opened us up to many, many wonderful and friendly Italian people. In Vernazza, Martina's family invited us into their house to try Mama's homemade limoncello crema. We've traveled around in a dozen European countries, and found the Italians to be the most open, fun-loving, and friendly of all. Polly in Morro Bay, CA USA 08/28/2007 The walk from Riomaggiore to Manarola was incredible, and as you mention, not too difficult. I would mention the Via d'Amore, a graffiti-strewn passageway, which was a lot of fun.
I know that it's impossible to list everything, but Mantua and Ferrara are cities worth a visit. The castles in both cities are really great, and the drive across the causeway into Mantua is something very special. Also, for anyone who finds themselves in the Abbruzzo area, about 60 miles east of Rome is the city of L'Aquila, whose Collemaggio church and Fort are outstanding.
I like the informal style of your book very much, as well as your excellent TV series! Carl Topilow in Beachwood, OH USA 08/26/2007 Gaetano Manfredi at Pompeii is an absolutely wonderful tour guide. Rick Steves recommends him in his Italy guide book and I have never had a more informative tour. He brings the city alive. There are no wasted moments: his information is scholarly and vibrant. The highest compliment came from my 14 and 16 year old sons who decided that he was very "cool". Geatano is a great guy and a masterful historian. He is easily reachable by email and setting up a tour is effortless. I give my highest recommendation. His email: 3387255620@tim.it. Oliver Stanton in Davis, CA USA 08/24/2007 Italy with a baby is fabulous. My husband and I took a two week trip to Italy with our 8-month-old. We thought we'd have a good trip despite having the baby along; now I don't want to return to Italy without a baby. Everywhere, we were treated like royalty: people jumped up to offer me a seat on the bus, we went to the front of lines at museums, grandmothers and teenagers and everyone in between cooed, "Belissimo! Complimenti! Bello, bello, bello," as we walked by, airport security put us on the plane first and waved us by the final security check. We had three days of jet lag purgatory (which I think Rick Steves might have overheard in the Loggiato dei Serviti and I'm sorry if we kept him up) and past that it was fabulous. I recommend trips to Italy with babies who are four to six months: smiling but not cruising or walking. We had such great conversations with people without knowing a bit of Italian; I don't think we would have had a quarter of the conversations without our bambino along. I had heard before we went that Italians love babies, but I had no idea how much they love babies. Kim Schultz in San Diego, CA USA 08/14/2007 Eating in Orvieto at Pizzeria Ristorante Re Artu, 14 via Loggia dei Mercanti, tel. 0763/393-438. Lovely, quiet outdoor courtyard restaurant located on a quiet, non-touristic street. Good food and great prices. Denise Beever in Lake Foest, CA USA 08/12/2007 Discovery in Cinque Terre, Monterosso al Mare. "Angelo's Boat Tours" on the waterfront, right on the boat dock in the old village. Angelo, with decent command of English, offers private swimming, snorkeling ans sunset tours along the Cinque Terre coastline. The snorkeling is very dramatic as the water is extremely clear and deep right up to the cliff. he knows the secret caves, waterfalls, and beaches after spending his entire life on the water in this area. Angelo's family is one of the five oldest families in Monterosso, known for fishing for anchovies "al Lamparo", as his family has for the recent 8 or possibly 9 centuries. The church and cemetery are full of the Benvenuto family crypts. His friendly wife Paula provides the best picnic ever for a small extra charge, which turned out to be our best meal in Italy. She cooks only organic and completely fresh foods from their "horto" (garden) on the hill, and her fresh pesto pasta, eggplant compote, served with ice-cold Prosecco or homemade fresh lemonade make for the most amazing memory and amazing day in our entire trip! Book ahead because they can get very busy in August! A pricey 60 euros per hour (groups of 1-4) and 75 euros per hour and worth every penny for larger groups might discourage some, but pool your money and do this tour! It is stunning! +339 314 0582 or 333 318 2967. Paula speaks English (she's American), Angelo's is also quite good. paula55@libero.it Cindy Nelson in Palo Alto, CA USA 08/12/2007 Casteletto Di Montebenichi - medieval castle converted to hotel with 9 rooms in small hamlet atop hill in Montebenichi. Guests are treated royally and the castelleto is enchanting! Owners live on site and are there to help guests get teh most out of their stay. Truly a find. Donna Sanfort in Hamilton Square, NJ USA 08/10/2007 We had luggage on our visit to Herculaneum(we were on our way to Sorrento) and I had a difficult time finding out if there was luggage storage there on site (there is). Also, don't get a cab right outside the train station there, walk a block and then get a cab and save 10 Euros! Same with the Venice airport, get a water taxi down at the water instead of inside the airport. We saved 25 Euros by walking down to water! anne ozmer in atlanta, ga USA 08/09/2007 The last two weeks in May, 2007, my father and I toured in the Umbria region of Italy. We stayed several days in a wonderful agriturismo named Genius Loci, a farmhouse restored by Maurizio and Mary Tacconi and managed by their son Michael. (Maurizio is Italian with roots in Foligno and Mary is American, living in Italy for over 30 years) It is located about 2 miles from the ancient village of Bevagna on a hillside overlooking a beautiful farming valley with vineyards, olive orchards and sunflower fields.
Michael and Mary have a wealth of information about the area – villages, sites, art, wineries, restaurants, places to explore and experience and provide several day-trips within a 40 km radius. Michael is professional, attentive and warm in his interactions with guests, makes you feel at ease in the surroundings and makes great cappuccinos!
Genius Loci is about 15 minutes from Foligno and Spello, 20 minutes from Perugia, and near Assisi and Spoleto. The place is newly redone, using the old timbers, stone and tiles from the original 1880’s farmhouse. The rooms (8, one is assessable) are comfortable for two, with antique furnishings. Bathrooms are large and clean and there are wonderful sweeping views from the windows. The eating area, bar and reading room provide a variety of areas to talk, read or nap. Outside there is a large pool and patio for sun and water fun. My favorite spot was the lovely portico which looked out over the valley and mountains and was a perfect location when the thunder and lightening storms passed through.
Our Umbrian experience was wonderful, thanks to the warm and friendly dealings with the Tacconi Family. We will be back!
www.geniuslociumbria.com Michele Tacconi, Manager Localita Fonte Caime 250 06031 Bevagna (PG) Tel./Fax - 0742 362111 Holly Brownscombe in Berkeley, CA USA 08/07/2007 Looking for a car service? We found ourselves in Stresa on a Sunday, with most car rental places closed....we wanted to go to Bellagio, and Venice. That meant many train changes, and two trips through Milan. We found Noemi and Giuseppe, through Slow Travel. Their ad on Slow Travel is: http://www.slowtrav.com/cl/detail.asp?l=2124. They met us at the ferry stop in Stresa (we had been staying on il Pescadore Island). Not only did they get us to Bellagio, but they found out ahead of time the ferry schedule so that we could go see Villa del Balbianello of Star Wars fame! They took us to lunch at this great place just outside of Como, which was just a fantastic meal. The fish was so fresh, straight from the lake. We enjoyed our day with them, they let us stop and stretch our legs in Bergamo, which was a pleasant surprise. They called our hotel in Venice, to advise our arrival time, and to make sure of our correct vaperetto. Giuseppe, does all of the driving, and Noemi is American and does all of the translating. They even stopped at a pharmacy and helped our daughter buy anti-itching medication for her mosquito bites. All in all, a pleasant way to travel, I highly recommend them. Kathy and Mark Kelsey in Santa Clara, Ca USA 08/06/2007 We had house wine for lunch and dinner and never were disappointed. Also never had a bad gelato. Your book was such a wonderful guide and help to us. Katie Ruggieri in Greensboro, NC USA 08/04/2007 Abby San Antimo. Beautiful Abby in a beautiful valley. It is an active monastery. Perfect example of the beautiful Tuscan countryside. They play a tape of the Brothers chanting, and the altar had sunflowers. Very impressive. The drive to San Antimo is breathtakingly beautiful. Mark and Kathy Kelsey in Santa Clara, CA USA 08/04/2007 Hotel Berna in Milan was clean, quiet, around the corner from the Metro, 2 blocks from the train station and provided a continental breakfast and afternoon tea. www.hotelberna.com email: info@hotelberna.com. We usually stay at the Speronari and found it was being renovated. There is also a good restaurant just down the street toward the train station from the hotel Berna. Bonnie Reynolds in Manchaca, TX USA 08/03/2007 We had a much easier time driving in Italian cities than we expected, thanks to GPS! Rental of the guidance device only added 6 Euro per day to the cost of the car and allowed us to travel much more confidently. I would even go so far as to say that driving in Milan is fairly comfortable with a GPS box on your dash. Gabrielle Peterson in Winona, MN USA 08/01/2007 Franco Wine Tour
Accommodations: Venice - Locanda Ca' del Console, Castello 6217 (calle Trevisan;)near Campo Santa Maria Formosa, close to Osteria al Mascaron; www.locandacadelconsole.com Old Austrian consulate, attentive service, includes breakfast.
Florence - Panella's Residence, Via Della Pergola, #42, east of Duomo, http://www.panellaresidence.com Old convent. Wonderful rooms. Sra. Panella is an attentive hostess. Includes a delicious breakfast.
Rome - Hotel Navona, Via dei Sediari, 8; between Pantheon and Piazza Navona; www.hotelnavona.com A great find in Rome. In the middle of everything. Includes breakfast.
Restaurant Florence - La Pentola dell'Oro Osteria. Great ambience. One of the best (of many great) meals of our trip. Marie in Oak Park, CA USA 07/27/2007 Go on line at home to see what times the trains run and print out the schedule. It's invaluable in planning at home to realize what is possible to see in a day with travel and cuts down your time in front of the electronic ticket machines in Itlay's train stations. Rob DiCocco in Broomall, PA USA 07/24/2007 The Colosseum at night (after sunset) is cooler, much less crowded and an amazing view! Anu and Velu Bala-Subramanian in Westford, ma USA 07/23/2007 This amazing restaurant in Rome near the Spanish steps shoudl be added as a suggestion. la Buvette 00187 Roma - Via Vittoria 44/47 Tel 06 6790383
Also La Medusa, a lunch place near the Vatican museum was really good and cheap. STACY NAGEL in Capitola, CA USA 07/23/2007 I HAVE READ MANY OF RICK STEVE'S TRAVEL BOOKS, AND THIS SUMMER I USED THE ITALY BOOK TO TRAVEL THROUGH ITALY WITH MY for later research, and passed on the used parts as I could to whom ever wanted them. The information is so useful and the maps are a necessity when trying to negotiate Italian cities. 16 YEAR OLD SON. The general ITALY guide book was accurate (except Euro's are quite a bit higher than noted in the book) and every single bit of advise that Rick gave was "right on". I tore out the sections of the book that I needed, left the bulk of the book at home and passed along my "used" sections to anyone who might need them. Thanks for a great guide to getting around Italy ! Pam PAM in DEMATTEO, TX USA 07/22/2007 In Venice, check out the Hotel Antiche Figure. Great location, right across the Grand Canal from the Train Station. They have opened up some new rooms next door which were very nice. Staff very helpful. Kathy Brownfield in Stow, OH USA 07/19/2007 Discovered the small Tuscan hill town of Casole d'Elsa near Volterra and San Gimignano. Much quieter, but also less shops and things to do. Charm and views make up for it. The restaurant overlooking the countryside has a large patio and is a must with great pasta.
In addition, we discovered a small restaurant called "Al Promessi Sposi" in Venice which was fantastic. We started off with some "chicchetti", then had amazingly fresh seafood pasta (octopus was delicious!).
Lastly, we discovered "Fattoria Lischeto" outside of Volterra. Gorgeous little farm resort with incredible views of the hills, and homemade cooking for dinner and breakfast. Michael Crichton in Ottawa, ON Canada 07/18/2007 Ate the best pizza ever in Via degli Apuli, Via San Lorenzo, Bologna, they also do great traditional dishes from Puglia, fresh seafood etc, fantastic decor, beautiful outdoor courtyard with olive trees, friendly staff on hand to recommend wine (they have a massive selection so it was really hard to choose) Can't wait to go back! vicky in Tipperary, Ireland 07/18/2007 Ristorante Borgo Antico, a wonderful find halfway between Siena and Firenze, at Tavarnelle Val di Pesa. Via Roma 55/57, ph. 055/8076180. This is a few km. west of the autostrade, worth a side trip for a meal. Excellent food at reasonable prices, presided over by a lively signora. The town is nothing special, but does have a "Coop" supermercato for stocking your kitchen if you're renting a villa nearby. Also, Pensione Paradise, not far east of the Vatican in Rome. Small, close to subway, 2 stars, so not fancy but adequate -- and a good value for Rome. Viale Guilio Cesare 47, Rome, 00192. Ph. 06/36004331. They recommended some good neighborhood restaurants. Mark Adams in Gig Harbor, WA USA 07/17/2007 Visitors to Rome this summer (2007) should know that the Bernini "Four Rivers" fountain in Piazza Navona is completely covered in scaffolding. Also covered is the majority of the Victor Emmanuel monument.
Santa Maria Novella in Florence: the facade is covered in scaffolding. kath in los angeles, ca USA 07/16/2007 Il Vegetariano - restaurant in Florence, we found this in the the Lonely Planet Guide. It was the only restaurant in our 3 week stay that served excellent vegetarian food and whole grains. I was surprised you didn't list it. We ate there every night we were in Florence, 5 times Jan Lapetino in Denver, CO USA 07/13/2007 Your book provided the backbone of our very successful 2006 3 week Italy trip-thanks! We have one recommended addition for a fantastic place to stay in Assisi. Palazzo Minciotti turned out to be the stay that highlighted our 3 week Italian adventure. Edoardo and Anna Maria Minciotti were extraordinary hosts, featuring 4 separate apartments in the heart of Assisi. The apartments are located right on the uber scenic Piazza San Rufino, directly across from the grand church of San Rufino, where Saint Francis was baptized! Between the warmth of the hosts and the pealing of the church bells-this was Italy at it's best! We will be returning to Palazzo Minciotti soon!http://palazzominciottiassisi.com/ Todd Brown in Groton Long Point, CT USA 07/11/2007 When visiting Montepulciano by car, if you park in one of the northern lots, you can go to the tabachi shop in Piazza don Minzoni and buy a city bus ticket for .90 Euro. The bus will take you up (and I do mean up!) to Palazzo Comunale. The rest of your stroll through town will be all downhill. Also, while in town and after wine tasting with Adamo at Contucci Cantina, make sure to stop and visit the copper workshop of Signor Mazetti at Bottega Del Rame, about 100 meters north at P.tta del Teatro 4. He is truly an old world craftsman creating stunningly beautiful handmade copper utensils and artwork of all shapes and sizes. Limited English, but he managed to get across the fact that his grandfather made most of the tooling that he uses daily in 1857. If he takes a liking to you, he'll handcraft a copper gift for you on the spot, as he did for us. He also let us know that his wife, or as he called her - the "Minister of Finance" -runs their store which you should pass on the Corso on your way down the hill. In Corniglia, Enoteca Il Pirun makes an interesting stop. You can't miss it because Mario, the owner, has a display of wine bottles with very politically uncorrect labels out front, and what sounded like Italian blues on the cranked up stereo inside. A glass of the local white comes with olives and snacks. Mario also rents at least one room at 70 Euro that looked pretty nice from the pictures. I asked if the vino was "incluso" and he just grinned. Joe St. Laurent in Gresham, OR USA 07/06/2007 Italy Guidebook, Venice Portion: I recommend reading John Berendt's "City of Fallen Angels". It gives so much background about the La Fenice fire,some sites, American contributions to "Save Venice", Venice society and Venetian attitudes. Otto Fafoglia in Chatham, Il USA 07/06/2007 This scam happened to my son and I and also to two other guests we met later at the Il Bargellino in Florence. In fact, on the day in question, I would suspect that dozens of foreign travelers found themselves ripped off.
On 12 April, when my son and I were in the Rome terminal train station and walking along the tracks looking for the correct Eurostar car, we noted a number of offical looking (all wearing dark pants and blue shirts) non-Italian men and one approached me and asked to see my ticket. Being fully aware of pickpockets, etc. I grudgingly let him have it and then found myself following him to the next car where he "very officially" proceeded to board and my son and I boarded after him. It was only when he demanded (and I do mean demanded) 5 euros for lifting both of our bags to the overhead compartment that I knew I'd been had. I was led into this ripoff as I never imagined that nonticketed people could board a Eurostar train then get back off. THINK OF THE SECURITY IMPLICATIONS!!
Despite this one incident, we had a wonderful time and truly love Italy. Thanks for all the helpful tips in your book. John Alvin Henningsen in Decatur,, AL USA 07/06/2007 We just returned from Bellagio and want to recommend Aperitivo Et Al, as Sarah mentioned. We were there twice and had a great time. They poured us some great wines and everyone there (including Sarah) was helpful and friendly. Kevin Fairchild in San Marcos, CA USA 07/05/2007 In Isola d'Ischia, we stayed in the town of Forio at the Hotel Villa Carolina. It proved to be a real find with luxury at a great price. Well located, it provided exceptional facilities for a highly competitive price. they can be researched and reached via their web site at www.hotelvillacarolina.it. Frank DeLustro in Charleston, SC USA 07/02/2007 In Siena, behind Il Campo, is the Piazza di Mercato. There are two restaurants - da Papei and Le Fenestre. A guide recommended the former; it was closed, so we went to the latter. Very reasonably priced, good food, though no one spoke English (probably a good omen). We later discovered that Frances Mayes had recommended da Papei in the NYTimes as well. My husband says he had one of the best sandwiches of his life (made of the local wild boar proscuitto) at Antica Pizzicheria al Palazzo della Chigiana, a funky meat shop with long thick ropes hiding the entryway, and a bespectacled wild boar's head above and to the right. L & N Liss in Salem, OR USA 07/02/2007 Tip: 1) Rick Steves' restaurants are popular, Eat early. 2)Train track listed with letters after the numbers (ie Track 1-OC) are often terminus tracks and are located in a different place than regular tracks. 3) Always begin transactions with a friendly "Buon Giorno". It makes a difference in how you'll be treated. Thomas Vincent in 2913 9th Ave W, WA USA 07/01/2007 The wine tours provided by Rebecca at Tuscan wine tours (www.tuscan-wine-tours.com)out of Florence were great. This was definitely one of the highlights of our tour. The group was small, no more than eight people. She does a great job giving people a taste of some of the hill towns (we went to Pienza and Montepulciano), while also giving wine tours of some of the smaller, more intimate growers in the region. We happened to also visit a Cheese making farm on our wine vist and got to experience several types of local cheeses. This is a great tour and everyone will fall in love with helpful Rebecca. P. in Jones, GA USA 06/29/2007 I have just returned from Italy and discovered a few tips:
A great intenet cafe in Bellagio. It was Bellagiopoint.com, Salita Plino 8-10-12. It was a short walk up the street from the boat dock. Not only did it offer good inexpensive wine and reasonable internet access in a cozy environment, they had free food (cicchetti style). Not only could you eat all you wanted, but we liked the cheese so much we asked for a piece to take along fully expecting to pay for it. But no, the proprieter gave us the cheese at no cost. He really meant free food. My wife and I had two glasses of red wine, lunch, a take away snack and 30 minutes of interent access for 14 Euros. As a bonus, they have a very clean WC. A great stop
For our stay in Venice, we had a hotel in Lido, just across the lagoon. It was a short bus ride to St. Marks (the hotel was near the Lido bus dock) and it was great to get away from the bustle of Venice each night. I highly recommend it.
I got taken by a quick change guy at a small town snack stand. I gave him a 20 Euro note for a 1.5 Euro item. He gave me change for a 5 Euro. When I protested, he pulled a 5 note out of the cash box and claimed that is what I gave him. My bus was leaving and the language barrier made my position hopeless. It was a 15 Euro education. Be alert. It was really the only problem I had with the merchants. Bruce Smith in Appleton, WI USA 06/28/2007 Tickets to the Uffizi in Florence can be bought on-line at www.florenceart.it along with tickets to other pardon the pun, big ticket venues. You can print your voucher on-line etc. Of course you need to buy ahead of time, especially I suspect for the summer (mine are for October). This suggestion is not for the spur of the moment crowd but most Americans going to Florence are planning months out. Beats trying to buy tickets by phone hands down. Also I find STREETWISE MAPS (www.streetwisemaps.com) really handy. Laminated and shows sights in context to the bigger picture. I've used them for Florence, Paris and London with great success. (Also helps when you're lost - natives can just point and gesture). Marie Thayer in San Diego, CA USA 06/27/2007 Domus Inn in Rome is great (once you get past the rickety elevator). Right by Bolghessi and a bus ride from the main sights. In general, when you get turned down on a bunch of booked Rick Steves hotel pics, try trip-adviser. They can tell you which hotels have openings, you then find the one with the highest ratings and then call then directly using Skype. This worked well for me. Jeff in Merced, CA USA 06/27/2007 Bellagio Lake Como: My partner Aurelio and I have recently opened a new bar in Bellagio opposite his existing restaurant Trattoria San Giacomo which already appears in the Italy book. It has been refurbished beautifully and we provide hot and cold food all day from 11am until 1am. All of our food is fresh and of the highest quality. We also have a climatised cellar inside the bar with over 130 Italian wines and French champagnes. We also make great cocktails and stock a locally brewed beer. All before dinner drinks come with complimentary nibbles. For more information please email us and I can mail our full menu with prices and photos. We will shortly been putting our website on line at www.bellagio.co.nz/aperitivoetal. Sarah Heard in Bellagio, Co Italy 06/27/2007 Yes, I do! My husband and I just stayed at an excellent hotel in Anacapri (Hotel Biancamaria, Via G. Orlandi, 54; 39-081-837-1000). It was only 160 euros per night and in the heart of Anacapri. Clean and spacious rooms and most have balconies. I use your travel books often and just thought you might want to check it out! Therese DeMatteo in New York, NY USA 06/26/2007 Dear Mr. Steve's, I just wanted to thank you. I just got back from Florenece and Venice with my girlfriend and with the help of your guidebook, we were able to maximize our enjoyment of each city. I do not pretend to be an expert, for that matter not even a novice, but I wanted to reccomend a restaurant in Florence that I do not believe was in your book. We ate there and were astonished at how good the food was and how cheap the price was. I had a plate of osso buoco for 10 Euros! My mother made that dish for out family at Christmas and it cost her 8 Euros just to buy it! They had a house wine that was just as good as any of the other restaurants that we went to. The name of the restaurant is Trattoria Marione, and it is on Via Della Spada. Their telephone number is 055.214756. I highly suggest this restaurant. Like I said, I do not pretend to know anything about Florence or Italy, and thus I used your guidebook. We just happened to come accross this restaurant by chance, and since we could not find it in your book, I figured I would let you know about it. Thanks again for all your help. Sincerely, Dave Preziosi Dave Preziosi in Oradell, NJ USA 06/25/2007 A fabulous B&B seven miles south of Siena run by two wonderful people, Laura and Luciano: Il Canto del Sol, Via di lla Canina,1292, Il. Cuna - 53014 - Monteroni d'Arbia e-mail: info@ilcantodelsole.com Jack Johannes in Philadelphia, PA USA 06/25/2007 I just want to write and say how wonderful the Monetti Taxi service is! We had arranged for Tony to take us on a tour of the Amalfi coast this June. He was more than we had hope. Personal, informative and genuinely excited about what he was showing us. Thanks. Margaret Ann Burtchaell in St. Petersburg, Fl USA 06/23/2007 The city of Siena just might very well be the most romantic place I've ever been. Very convenient to anyone seeing Florence, this city - with its labrynthine passageways - is the perfect place to stroll away the stresses of 21st century life. Stephen Donovan in Worcester, MA USA 06/18/2007 We found it better to reverse the evening walk in Rome. That is start from Spanish steps and walk upto Campo Di Fiori and eat dinner there Vinay Malur in Queensbury, NY USA 06/18/2007 Here is a tip that I think is very important for your consideration and it is about European train travel. All of the guidebooks I read of Rick's (Venice, Florence, and Italy) suggest to the reader that it is a perfectly good idea to go second class. My son and I travelled this spring from Zurich to Venice (about 8 hours) second class. This was a problem, our train car was filled with 2 school groups, one of high school students and one of middle school students. They went the entire distance with us, and their teacher chaperones were extremely indulgent. did you ever go on a class trip with kids on a school bus--imagine the cacaphony. While the kids were not bad they never shut up and the din got louder as every hour passed. As for the middle school teacher, she got on the train, settled the children then she and the other chaperone popped open a bottle of fine white wine!! After 2 glasses and a few hours as the decibel level was rising, I looked over and she was fast asleep. Imagine this here in the US!! There were elderly people in the train car, as well, and it was very exhausting and tiresome for them, me (58) and my easy going son(27). So, on the next leg, From Venice to Florence we booked first class, and it was a peaceful ride in an environment of quiet. For the next leg, feeling guilty about the extra fee for first class, we tried second class again, from Florence to Milan. Big mistake, this time there was a group of young men (skinheads, maybe) who were totally rude, loud, singing things that had the other folks on the train rolling their eyes..one advantage for Americans who dont speak the language... they also took a lot of pleasure playing a tinny am radio that was just playing static and it was very loud. Nobody did a thing to quiet these people down, so we had to listen to this for the entire trip. Finally, the last leg was from milan back to Zurich, and we had to just book first class. It is definitely a must in my book and I think you should give some consideration for your book(s) to recommending first class for your travellers. Second class was not pleasant or adventuresome and did not fit in with our expectations. Linda Nasser in Danbury, CT USA 06/18/2007 You really need to include Ferrara. We spent 5 days there and loved it. We also used it as a day-trip base for a day in Ravenna. Ferrara has a great castle, museums, a wonderful duomo, very good restaurants, and bicycling galore. In the 5 days we were there, we were on bikes during 3 of them, and nowhere do bikes, cars, motor cycles, and pedestrians co-exist better. We stayed at Laconda Borgonuovo at Cairoli 29. Free bicycle usage. Fine beakfasts. Great location. Reasonable price. And the finest hosts/hostesses that we encountered in our 23-day visit to Italy.
We also visited Bologna, which you do not cover in Italy 2007. Fine cathedrals. Several excellent museums. We foiled a pickpocket attempt by a young woman who tried to get into my pocket while I was taking pictures of the towers in Bologna. She covered her pickpocketing arm with a small blanket and tried to distract me by jabbering with me as she reached into my front left pocket (which was bulging out a bit from my glasses in a case and some maps). She failed miserably and backed away as I screamed at her. robert varnum in fort myers, fl USA 06/11/2007 Hotel Melecchi; Lucca Doug in Marker, OR USA 06/10/2007 We saw many people carrying a Rick Steves book! We enjoyed staying at some of the recommended hotels. In Siena, we loved the hotel Santa Catarina. We stayed a week near Lucca, at Toscana Saporita, a delightful cooking school, taught in English, and located on a lovely estate with an olive grove. We rented a car after completing our week in school, and followed Rick's suggestions in Volterra, Siena, Lucca, Florence, and Pisa. The biggest problem we had was finding our hotels. Even with directions from the hotels, and Rick's maps, it was hard. The book's suggestions for Florence were especially helpful, and having prior reservations for the Accademia and Uffizi made those experiences much more enjoyable since we were not in the long waiting lines. We would move the Pitti Palace higher on the "must see" list. This is our second trip to Italy, the first being to the northern regions, and this trip to Tuscany, and Rick's book was our guide. May Kolbe in Hereford, AZ USA 06/09/2007 Addition: We stayed three nights in May at the Hotel Locanda Salieri in Venice. We had a triple for 140 euro per night. It was an excellent room, good breakfast, and the staff was very helpful. http://www.hotelsalieri.com/ Michael in Swanson, TN USA 06/07/2007 Please include the agriturismo "La Falconara" & make a visit yourself if possible, in Montepulciano. I found the listing in your feedback section. The email address is info@lafalconara.it, and the site is www.lafalconara.it.
It was very reasonable, the only place we found that was below 100 euros per night for stays of less than 1 week. 3 nights is 85 euros per night, and the price goes down for stays of 5 or more nights. Alex and Ingrid gave us a 2.5% cash discount when we made a request.
We were in Room 3, and there was a roll out sofa where 2 more people could have slept. The location was fantastic, and Alex gave us good advice about places to eat with the locals, as well as providing us with books about nearby towns we wished to visit (in English.)
Rick, you should see this place. It is darling. It is also children friendly, with lots to keep them happy, including a pool. We were very pleased and wished we could have stayed longer. We will definitely go back as soon as our pocketbook allows.
The kitchen enabled us to economize a bit on dining, and we could have taken far more advantage had we chosen to do so.
I admit this is my first stay in an agriturismo, but it left a quite a favorable impression on us. We loved the views and country atmosphere. Juley Hull in Danville, CA USA 06/03/2007 Umbria, Emilia Romana and the Etruscan Coast of Tuscany are not given a lot of coverage in the book- we enjoyed Agritourismo's ( AR Calagrana in Umbertide and AR Gualdo Del Re in Suvereto)and a Locanda/Risotrante ( Acetia Malpeghi in Modena). All had excellent restaurants, were interesting places to explore and were as enjoyable as any of the more well known locations. The big restaurant find in Rome was Ristorante Giapponese Roppongi ( Via Quattro 27)- a short walk from Via Firenze ( Hotels Oceania, Aberdeen, Nardizi)- filled with locals the food, service and value were excellent. If you can go for Irish food in Rome- why not Japanese! Steve and Linda Wilhoit in Anacortes, WA USA 05/27/2007 Tuscany? Simple. Casa Portagioia, (tuscanbreaks.com) Perfect hosts, beautiful property, wonderful food. Will return ASAP. Rosemary Castiglioni Rosemary Castiglioni in Woodstown, NJ USA 05/26/2007 Using the ATM's in Italy are not as simple as we had heard. Sometimes a receipt is not given. Even though my husband and I use different cards, his would work and mine didn't or it would only give me a minimal amount of cash. We usually used the ATM on the weekend, bad mistake. We wouldn't be able to go inside the bank and request a receipt or help. Also, the idea of purchasing a cell phone for use in Europe was not the best idea for us. It only worked one time. So I wasted $39.00 for the phone plus a $20 phone card. I was not a happy camper! We did take the EuroStar and it was great! We also used the Roma 110 Tour bus and will not do that again. For $40 we spent half the time trying to find a bus stop to be picked up for the return trip. They give no information unless you ask and you don't ask because everyone is in a hurry to get on or off the bus....And last but not least are the rudest bus drivers and ticket agents ever! Any question I asked whether in English or Italian (I am full blood Italian) were met with a "dumb" look or "No English". Virginia and Wayne Miller in Selma,, CA USA 05/19/2007 My husband and I just returned from a 20 day trip to Holland and Italy. Holland was wonderful but we didn't allow enough time. We used your "Rick Steve's Italy 2007" for hotels and sightseeing. The one we got in Sorrento "Hotel Elios" no longer serves breakfast. But Gianna and her mother Maria were terrific. The first night out we had forgotten to take the key to the outside door and after some frantic knocking Gianna came to let us in! I apologized but she just laughed and said, "no problem". After that we always remembered the outside key! Virginia and Wayne Miller in Selma,, CA USA 05/19/2007 Hotel Giardino in Rome ,was full when i had to change our reservation with them. Katie ,who runs it was exstremly gracious and helpfull finding us a hotel as I was having trouble find a nice one in the center of Rome. this is not the case with many of them.we will be there next week and i will bring her some flowers. Will give you feed back on the recomendations she gave us when we return.Terry Wynne Terry Wynne in Richmond, Ca USA 05/14/2007 Bologna and Bergamo! I bought your book figuring there'd be info on Bologna, but was surprised not to see any. It's such charming city filled with good eats and history. The 2 hour walking tour in English that meets at the TI (13 Euro) is not to be missed, especially if Emilia's your guide. Bergamo's a fascinating town and quite affordable, too. Maria in Cambridge, MA USA 05/12/2007 Tip: If you are renting a car, beware of national holidays. Our car rental agency (Hertz) was closed in Peruggia (near Assisi)on April 25, so we needed to wait until the next day to pick up a car. This meant additional expense taking a taxi to our agriturismo (about 30 euros), then special arrangements to get back to Assisi and take a train to Peruggia. Complicated and ate up half a day. On the other hand, they were flexible about drop-off points with no extra charges, and we left our rental car in Milan at the airport when we were ready.
Tip: We discovered that excellent food is not necessarily a given in (expensive) Italian restaurants. Several of the restaurant meals we had, even though recommended in the guidebook, were disappointingly institutional --and the cost was high. We would encourage travelers to eat at modest prices during the day for breakfast and lunch (pizzerias provide an adequate lunch/slice of pizza for a euro or two in many places), then look for higher-end dining for dinner. We had several $100 dinners that were nothing special at all. For us, it was a surprising discovery. We had more fun, enjoyed the taste more, and paid lower prices, simply buying good local bread, cheese, meats, fruits, or wines for picnics.
Discovery: For some reason, Coke produces are very expensive at bars, etc. You can spend the equivalent of $2.50 for a diet Coke. If you need a Coke, buy it at a grocer's, where the prices are more like US costs, roughly 75 cents.
Tip: Everything worth seeing in Italy is either up a hill or up long flights of stairs! We called ours the "buns of steel" tour. Bring good walking shoes; if you're a little out of shape, or don't walk up and down much, you may want to get into practice before you go. Clay Oglesbee in Northfield, MN USA 05/11/2007 i have a story! I have a new inn near Bevagna, Umbria, Italy which is already the talk of the town...and I am anxious to tell you my story. I have been encouraged by one of your loyal readers, my roommate 40 years ago at UC, to share the story with you.
In synthesis:
Fresh out of college at UC where I studied Art History, I came from Long Beach, California to a "backward" Umbria 39 years ago when I was the ONLY foreigner in my town. I married a strongly traditional Italian businessman from an important noble family and I had NO idea of the ensuing, far-reaching implications of this type of family which was essentially closed to any and all ways which differed from its own long-standing customs: my adjustment took heroics!
Maurizio and I had two children, a lovely daughter who soon became a talented classical musician and scholar (Ph.D. Yale 1997) and a son, a free-spirited, outgoing, charismatic rock musician. After his college degree at Conn College (2000), our son completed an international hotel management program and worked in hotels all over the world.
Five years ago we took on the bumpy ride of an entailed restoration project of one of our 1880's farmhouses located in a heavenly spot in the hills of Umbria, turning it into an inviting country inn (www.geniuslociumbria.com) which bares the soul and captures the very essence of Umbria. Genius Loci boasts a unique atmosphere-just as unique as our bicultural family which has witnessed Umbria's long-overdue "coming into its own" and the shedding of its "big sister complex" with the illustrious neighbor to the north!
These past 39 years have been an extraordinary, often difficult but always challenging ride and a fascinating experience. Our family has stayed close inspite of distance, language barriers (my husband does not speak English to this day), world-apart mentalities and personalities, a bout of serious illness and the ravages of time and aging.
Our Genius Loci Country Inn is our crowning achievement and is already the talk of the town in the area. It is a remarkable structure, different from any other.
There is so much more to my story! I wonder if you might like to know more and perhaps run an article on our adventure/story and on our unique and outstanding inn.
Hoping to hear from you,
Mary Thomas Tacconi tel:/fax: 39 0742 20901 cell: 335 6890023 expat1628@yahoo.com Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna PG, PG Italy 05/11/2007 An amazing place where we stayed in Naples, right at the intersection of Spaccanappoli and Via Toledo. Complete with 17th Century frescoes, 20 foot ceilings, and a room rate (in April 2007) of 110 euros per night. I suggest that you check out this group of small hotels. We stayed in Sansevero D'Agri.
check out: www.albergosansevero.it/info_ing.html Susan Matisoff in Berkeley, CA USA 05/09/2007 Our guide for the Palatine Hill recommended Navona Notte for a true authentic Italian dinner off the main piazza, and we were not disappointed. Facing Tre Scalini, head down the street until you see the sign above you on the left. Hang a left and the restaurant is there on your right. This would be a great place for an official "review." It was one of the most locally-populated, biggest portioned, and cheapest Italian meals we had. Kate MI USA 05/07/2007 After a TERRIBLE experience at an Orvieto winery, we found another about a mile away from our friend's home that was WONDERFUL. Custodi Winery greeted us with open arms, opened 4 bottles of wine for us, gave us a brief tour since we were running out of time and told us of an Open House all the local wineries EXCEPT Tenuta Le Velette participates in and I believe it's held in mid May. The two women who helped us were friendly, informative and very sweet. This winery restored our faith in Italian customer service and pride in their product. Custodi Winery Azienda Agricola Custodi Viale Venere localita Canale 05010 Orvieto (TR) Italia 39-0763-29053 info@cantinacustodi.com gianfranco@cantinacustodi.com laura@cantinacustodi.com chiara@cantinacustodi.com Joanne in Carmichael, CA USA 05/02/2007 SO MANY of your tips were extremely helpful and valuable on my trip! Some of my favorites were: bypassing the huge, long line at the Colosseum by getting tickets at Palatine Hill... bypassing another hugely long line at the Vatican by going in the "groups" door from the Sistine Chapel to the church... making reservations in advance for the Uffizi and Accademia galleries in Florence... visiting museums and tourist sites very early or late in the day... etc. Your book was GREAT!!!! Thanks for helping make my trip so wonderful!! B. Allen in Santa Barbara, CA USA 05/01/2007 I just discovered an additional email address for Milan's, "The Best" Hotel; It is as follows: info@thebesthotel.it Jason USA 04/29/2007 Churches & gelatos. As you're wandering by these "ho-hum" looking churches on the outside, poke your head inside for a pleasant surprise. Though we did enjoy visting "big name" churches, there were countless gems (& zero wait to get in) throughout Italy.
OK, gelatos. We tried lots - top 2 (in order): 1) Gelateria dei Neri, Florence - so good it was painful..good variety 2) Gelateria della Palma, Rome - HUGE selection, excellent taste (we preferred this over the famous Giolitti - also good, but some flavors perhaps needed "aquired tastes"). Ron & Ann Korzun in Clifton Park, NY USA 04/29/2007 In Monterosso, a lovely little restaurant in the old town, Carugio. Small, friendly, very reasonably priced, and delicious food.
And, Bressanone/Brixen in the north is another beautiful place to visit. Robbie Grady in Hooksett, NH USA 04/29/2007 The guidebook suggested reserving a month in advance to see The last Supper in Milan. In summer this is apparently not enough. If I had known I obviously could have made work of this sooner. I tried to reserve almost three months in advance and could not find a time in the two days I will be in Milan. I am irritated with myself for putting it off, but a one phrase addition of "longer in advance for the summer" in the guidebook would have prevented this huge disappointment. Mary Kaszuba in Downers Grove, IL USA 04/25/2007 You can save 75 - 80 Euro on a double room 7/10 - 8/31 at the Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti if you book by April 30th at their website. Lissa in Colorado Springs, CO USA 04/25/2007 I have a accomodation tip in Rome and maybe it has already been said, but on the outskirts of the city there is a camping hostel called Camping Tiber. It is very affordable, and very clean including bathrooms and showers, and very affordable. It has also a bus that brings you to the train station and in 30 min you are in the centre of Rome. The costs are between 30-50 euro's a night. It has a restuarant, pool, and bar as well. Me and my friend thought it was a good place to stay especially if you are on a budget and if it is hot Bob Brander in Calgary, ab Canada 04/22/2007 Train strikes. Need I say more? On Friday the 13th, we got to experience this up front and personal. And after reading in your book (Venice or Rome, I can't remember), you simply mentioned that a train strike can catch you by surprise anytime. I would highly recommend mentioning some things you can do if (no, WHEN) it happens.
Our train was scheduled for 8:50 a.m. We waited and waited for a track number (binario) for our trip from Rome to Venice. By 9:00, nothing, so we went to the customer service/information window. Within moments, the woman inside stood up, pointed to her watch and said "Closed - Strike!!" We had absolutely NO idea what to do next. After standing in a couple of wrong lines, we found the ticket windws, which were still open. This woman, who spoke no English, told us we were out of luck. Not to be deterred, we found another agent who DID speak English and was willing to change our tickets to a 7:30 pm train that same evening. Seems like the strike was only from 9:00 until 5:00 that day. We thought we would store our luggage for the day and sightsee some more, but the line to check luggage was over an hour long. We decided to hang out at Termini Stazione.
Since these strikes seem to happen more often than not, you might make some suggestions as to what to do when it happens. We haven't felt that confused and frustrated in a very long time. We also became VERY familiar with the Rome Termini after spending the entire day there. Arrived at our hotel in Lido, Venezia around 1:00 a.m.! Cathy Koschik in Dallas, TX USA 04/22/2007 I recommend spending the money for Rick's city guides if you are hitting Rome, Florence or Venice. They include so many tours of sights that are not as detailed in the all-Italy guide. The extra cash spent on the books will be more than made up for. Robin W. in Richland, WA USA 04/21/2007 I liked the little tidbits like the padlocks on the side of the Ponte Vecchi. Dennis Hanberg in Tacoma, Wa USA 04/21/2007 the 72 hour vaporetto pass for Venice is 30 Euros from the Vaporetto ticket office, but only 24 Euros from our hotel desk (hotel Al Piave)...must be purchased before 2 pm though.
At MArco Polo airport, buy the Alilaguna waterbus ticket at the dock and avoid the long line at the terminal. Don in Irvine, CA USA 04/15/2007 Vatican Museum restaurant serves no meat on Fridays during Lent. All pizzas and other offerings are veg only. Angela in Sammamish, WA USA 04/15/2007 I did a little googling before I left and found an expat who now lives in florence. She reccomended her local vino sfuso shop, which I found just behind the Central Market. DaVino, will sell any number of local and italian wines by the liter. PERFECT for the picnicer! Grab a liter and snack and sit on the duomo steps for a stunning Firenze experience! thea in San Francisco, CA USA 04/14/2007 Our family's greatest discovery was finding Paola and Giuseppe Migliorini as our tour guides during our stay in Florence. They were personable, fun, and highly knowledgeable. All of us learned so much in a short period of time. The apt. Paola found for us in Florence in less than 12 hours was terrific. We were right in the middle of everything and within walking distance of many galleries and the flea market. We will highly recommend them to our friends!
Kramer family Jackie in Downingtown, PA USA 04/10/2007 At the advice of friends, we took the I Bike Italy bike tour through Tuscany and had a FANTASTIC time with our tour guide, Per, a native English-speaker. It's a 15-mile easy-to-moderate bike ride and reveals some of the most gorgeous scenery we saw on our whole trip. Very reasonably priced at $90 USD per person, includes a full-day bike tour, lunch, and tour of a winery. Leaves from Florence. www.ibikeitaly.com. Ticketing office is in Florida: 772.321.0267. Office in Florence: 055-2342371. They also offer a two-day bike tour from Florence to Siena.
We also discovered that McDonald's (specifically the one in Piazza Repubblica in Rome) makes a pretty good cappuccino AND gives it to you in a to-go cup. Nearly everywhere else we went and asked for a to-go coffee had to make do with whatever they had on hand for a lid.
We got a terrific room in Vernazza from Armanda (both of your hotel recommendations were full, and the guy at Albergo Barbara (Giuseppe, I presumed) called Armanda for us. She met us at the door of Albergo Barbara and led us across the street to a little room on Via di San Giovanni Battista (#48, I think). It had no view, but was supremely comfortable, very well-decorated, and she offered it to us for 70 Euro, just like in the book.
Hotel Lombardia is not mentioned in Italy 2007, but was a great hotel in Florence near the train station. Rooms were not plush, but comfortable enough, and a good deal at 70 Euro a night. Not sure of the man's name who owned it, but he was a great guy - very personable and warm and knows American history quite well! www.hotellombardia.it, Via Panzani, 19. phone: 055-215276
There was a pretty long line to get into Santa Croce (Florence), stretching from the entry around the corner and about halfway in front of the facade of the church. We waited about 30-40 minutes to get in late in the afternoon (3-ish) on a Sunday.
Someone has already mentioned this, but we also climbed the dome of St. Peter's Basilica before touring the cathedral and were glad the elevator down dropped us off right inside the nave. And it was awe-inspiring to be there during a mass and hear the choir. Beth and Mike Nelson in Cumming, GA USA 04/09/2007 1) Ricks "indestructible" picnic ware. If you think you are going to make your own picnis from local grocery stores on your trip...do yourself a favor and buy this set of pinic ware! They ARE very strong as I can attest. The knife cuts through blocks of yummy parmesean and pecorino cheese with ease. It never caused us problems in lines at the airport/with security. I only bought one set because I wanted to try it out fist..but after having used it for an entire week-I immediately bought another set to use for my next trip once I returned home. 2) Line at the Colosseum It looks like now everyone has to go through the metal detectors. In the past..we just whizzed through everyone like Rick suggests b/c we had our tickets already. This past trip it wasn't so easy because of the metal detectors. Once you are inside the detectors you are separated out based on already having your ticket (to the left side) or needing to buy one (to the right). Windy Hammond in Rodenbach, Germany 04/05/2007 Hi - As much as we used this book and others' helpful input, I feel it is only right to give back! So, here are three great additions:
1. Venice - TrattoriA da Gigio Campo S. Leonardo, 1594 - Tel. 041/717574 (a few blocks east of train station)
Despite the multi-lingual menu (which spells tourist to us), the food was GREAT and the value was better than Trattoria agli Artisti (recommended in the book, which we had enjoyed the night before). Our waiter make great recommendations and gave terrific service -- a very pleasant experience.
2. Florence - Trattoria Povoledo "Da Gigio" On Via Palazuolo between Via del Canacci and Via dell'Albero, I think -- around the corner from your recommended Bellevue Hotel and recommended by your friend Antonio. Ask him for the exact address. Half the price and far better food than Porcellino, recommended in the book which I have panned below. This Da Gigio was filled with locals and good energy. Enough English spoken here to figure out the menu but it helped we knew a bit of Italian. Restaurant itself is a hole in the wall, so don't come here here if you want romantic atmosphere.
3. Hostaria Antica Roma, Via Appia Antica 87 Tel. 06 5132888 (On the Appian Way between Domine Quo Vadis Church and Catacombs of San Sebastian - get off at #118 bus stop after Church and walk a half block in same direction as bus (down Appian Way toward San Sebastian) and it's on the left. We discovered this wonderful, historic family-run restaurant by accident. Great way to spend an afternoon, which we did. It is at the Columbarium and the restaurant has been in the family for 25 years. We had the daughter of the founder (can't remember her name, but she has 3 children herself) as our waitress and she was great. I had antipasto buffet (12 Euros, wonderful) and my daughter had lasagne (cream, not a tomato, sauce and also wonderful). Dessert was vanilla and chocolate mousse, plentiful, to die for. The setting is outdoors (or inside, if you wish) and stupendous. Best restaurant on entire trip. Didn't want to leave, and they didn't rush us. Just glorious. Margaret in Washington, DC USA 04/04/2007 We loved the guidebook to Italy. It was very helpful. We did find out at customs that the wine we were carrying had to be checked, as did others there. Pack it well. We started many conversations with other tourists because they were also carry your guidebook. Tangee Glass in Homer, GA USA 04/02/2007 Check out a restaurant in Padova called AlchimiA. It is located at Prato della Valle, 117 and telephone is 049 654088. Email address is www.alchimia.pd.it My sister and brother-in-law are living in Padova for a year and took us there for dinner as it's one of their favorites. We had a great meal, unbelieveable wine and the owner/manager took the time to talk to us about wine. Pam Dickinson USA 03/31/2007 Venice: We had bad experiences at two of the restaurants/osteria."Al Cugnai," which is in Dorsoduro near the Accademia, and "Osteria Al Pantalon," which is (not surprisingly) near the San Pantalon church -- these dinners occurred during the third week of March in 2007.
"Al Cugnai" I know the place is run by senior citizens, but they may have gone past senior status into quasi-retirement: the place smelled horrible, the food was pretty bad, and it was lit like an interrogation room. Also, the place was basically empty and they made a point to shove the tourists far in the back and make rude comments about them. Maybe they didn't know that the two of us understand and speak Italian, and maybe they just didn't care if we did, but in retrospect I wish that we would have just walked out.
"Al Pantalon": The place didn't smell bad, but there we had similar problems with mediocre, overpriced food and dismissive treatment; plus, any place that blasts bad renditions of "My Way" and "Feelings" over the sound system during dinner needs to rethink its mission.
That being said, we also had some very good experiences in Venice restaurants, and I hope that you will consider recommending the following places:
"Al Prosecco." Corro'd & Bordin, S. Croce 1503. We went here 19-3-07. This is a tiny bar that serves (not surprisingly) prosecco, as well as other wines. The place also had sandwiches, soup, and other snack-type fare. The prosecco is very tasty, as are the snacks, and I was pleasantly amused by the fact that I was surrounded by locals demanding their "ombra" pretty shortly after I entered. I had the distinct impression that they were waiting for someone to make it OK to walk in and get the lunch time drink session underway. Glad to help with building bridges between tourists and the community . . .
"Osteria alla Bifora". Di Bernardi Franco, Dorsoduro 2930. We visited 20-3-07. This is an osteria that had great wines, large plates of meat and cheese for customers to order, and two very welcoming and friendly owners. I think someone who goes here and is willing to try things and be enthusiastic about what they're eating and drinking will enjoy their experience.
"Ristoreca Oniga": Campo san Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2852. We went here 19-3-07. It is, as its name suggests, sort of a cross between a ristorante and an enoteca. It's a small place, rather informal -- there was rock and roll playing and guys serving us in t-shirts -- but the food, primarily Venetian specialties, was hearty and well-prepared. I had fegato alla Veneziano here and was about as happy as I could be.
We also have a few recommendations for you in Verona: "Ostaria La Stueta" Via Redentore 4/B 37219 Verona. www.ostarialstueta.it. This little place is close to the Teatro Romano, and it's been open less than a year. We had a wonderful lunch here: if you want to try horsemeat in any of its forms or donkey ragu, come here (all were very tasty) and there are plenty of good offerings (gnocchi with pesto or pomodoro) if you have a less far-ranging palate. It hasn't been discovered yet, but it should be. The owners are a very friendly, welcoming people, and we hope that more people will enjoy spending some time in the place.
"Osteria Del Bugiardo" C.P. Ta Borsari 17/A. This is an osteria filled with well-dressed twentysomethings, and it's packed after 6 p.m. We (luckily) showed up before then, got two seats, and enjoyed the very good wine and the few primi and secondi they have on offer. When we left two women in full Prada gear dove for our seats. They're not hurting for business, but it's worth a recommendation.
"Caffe' Monte Baldo" Via Rosa, 12: This is another enoteca, but more of a neighborhood spot. Great wines by the glass and snacks. There were four older gentlemen discussing lasagna at the next table and a bunch of college students and their dog at the other table next to us. Everyone was having a good time. Michael Gamer in Philadelphia, PA USA 03/29/2007 Feel that the following Day Tours out of Florence would be helpful to many readers. www.tuscany-biketours.com (Keith and Andy) Also winetasting tours with Rebecca www.tuscan-wine-tours.com. Both sites have contact information for you. Marigail and Robert Stamnes in Seattle, WA USA 03/24/2007 When my husband and I traveled to Italy we stayed just outside of a town called Monteriggioni. We asked about a nice restaurant close by and we came across the best restaurant we had been to in Italy. The name of the Ristorante Casalta. Their web site is www.ristorantecasalta.com. If you happen to be in the area check it out. Laura Baker in Estacada, Or USA 03/22/2007 We just returned from a 3-night, 4 day stay in Castellina in Chianti (homebase) and traveled to Siena, the Castellina in Chianti town, Volterra and San Gimignano, Assisi and Cortona. We stayed in a wonderful B&B called Fattoria Tregole. It has 2 apartments (with fireplaces), 1 suite (where we stayed - a bedroom, bath, and a separate salon where are daughters stayed), and 4 rooms. They have a pool, and the view and actual B&B are fabulous. We used this as a launch point to the sites above (all within 1 to 1 and 1/2 hours drive). We would go back to just relax there. The hostess (owner) was accomodating and charming and speaks english. We live in Vicenza, Italy for now, but would think that for the tourists coming from abroad, this would be useful. The Fattoria dates back to 800-1000 (etruscan era) and is dated as 1508 when most of the other structures were built. Extremely clean and to cap it all off, they make/sell their own wine and offer a wine tour in their cellars. The Chianti Classico was very good! They can also ship to the USA. Would highly recommend this place for those who do not need the 5-star hotel treatment (spas, etc). Breakfast was good, and during in-season, dinners are offered as well. Our daughters loved to run around the property and discover history! Olive trees and vineyards surround. Easy access to the town of Castellina in Chianti for a little shopping and meals; and very near favorite Tuscan and Umbrian cities (Orvieto, Deruta, Perugia, Cortona, Volterra, Siena, San Gimignano, Assisi). Brenda in Vicenza, Italy 03/20/2007 As a long time fan of the Rick Steves literature I am really proud to suggest a new contact in Cinque Terre. This is 'A Casa Cinque Terre' a small but effective operation that offers room, apartments to rent as well as a variety of activities such as cooking workshops, professional wine tastings, and boating trips. They are located at the Marina of Manarola, 19010 Ph and Fax +39 0187 920 666 www.acasa5terre.it I did some translation for this website and I have to say that in terms of service it's the most well organized from a language point of view. HS White in Hartford, CT USA 03/17/2007 Please add Dei Mori B&B Via Dante Aligheri 12 in Florence Rick Bart in Taunton, MA USA 03/14/2007 Two tips made the price of the book worth every penny: The stow your backpack down the back alley and get a token to bypass the line into St. Mark's in Venice tip, and the secret door at the far corner of the Sistine Chapel to access the back passage to St. Peter's tip. Grazie mille! Jim Nelson in Anacortes, WA USA 03/12/2007 I want to recommend the Marozzi bus service between Rome and Sorrento. We were concerned about transferring from the train to the Circumvesuviana in Naples given that we have three young children (and Rick's warning about the Naples train station). We decided to take the Marozzi bus from the Rome Tiburtina station. (Take the Metro 4 stops from Termini to Tiburtina). When you walk out of the Tiburtina station you will see city buses in front - go right, under the overpass into the parking lot across the street - there is a ticket office to buy tickets. The bus trip to and from Sorrento was great. The bus was clean, not crowded, and the drivers were friendly. Additionally, the bus stops at the Pompei ruins. If you want to see Pompei (which I highly recommend) get off there. There is a free baggage check at the Pompei ruins - store your bags and browse through the ruins. When you are done, pick up your bags and walk the 50 or so yards to the Circumvesuviana station and take the Circumvesuviana to Sorrento. We were quite pleased with our bus service between Rome and Sorrento and highly recommend the service. David Carter in Stillwater, OK USA 03/05/2007 While staying in Sorrento, we decided to visit Paestum. Paestum was great and I recommend seeing it. However, the best way to get there is to take the Circumvesuviana from Sorrento to Pompei (ruins) and then take a bus to the Pompei train station. Bus #3 runs from the Pompei Circumvesuviana stop to the train station (the bus costs one euro - you can pay the driver on the bus). You could walk to the train station but it is a couple of kilometers from the Circumvesuviana station. The train ride (direction Sapri) from Pompei to Paestum was about an hour. Get a round trip ticket since the Paestum train station is unmanned. I would avoid using the bus since it can be difficult to make connections (in Salerno for instance) because bus schedules are not posted and it is not easy to find where to buy the bus tickets. Further, in the winter, because the days are short, it may not be possible to take the bus ride down the Amalfi coast, make the connection to a new bus in Salerno, and still get to Paestum before the site closes. David Carter in Stillwater, OK USA 03/05/2007 We went to the gelateria outside the Scoula Grande in October 2006. We learned from observing the locals to buy gelato in their to go container. The smaller container with cones can make 4-5 servings for about 4 euros. Great value and great gelato. Luis V. Balcita in Naperville, IL USA 02/26/2007 The books are great, however, I'd like to see them made lighter. When taking 2 or 3 books they can really weight you down.Thanks, Mel Howard (avid user) Melvin Howard in Baltimore, md USA 02/18/2007 while waiting in line to get into the collosseum and Palitine hill we were approached by a company called Romearound tours. For a few euros more (18) we were by passed the long line and were given a guided tour. The fellow who did our tour was exceptional. It was supposto be a 2 hour tour and it ended up being almost 3 full hours. The information we received was well worth the extra euros. We found out he was conducting a tour of the Vatican the next day so we immediately booked our place in his tour. Ron Easson in Brampton, On Canada 02/14/2007 We spent a couple of weeks in the heart of Abruzzo last summer and made many discoveries. It is such a pristine area void of tourists, and I would love to see it stay that way...yet, I want people to experience its beautiful mountains, wonderful villages, and probably the best food of all Italy. In fact, I'm taking a small group of people there in June to experience Caramanico Terme, the lovely thermal town...for our spa/yoga retreat. We'll also visit some of the nearby mountain areas for hiking. Helen Sablan in Anderson, SC USA 02/12/2007 The Cinque Terre villages may at times be overcrowded. Travelers seeking quieter accomodations might consider staying in Levanto, a pleasant town just outside the official national park area but still covered by the Cinque Terre railway card. The town has a nice beach and several good restaurants. We stayed at the Villa Margherita B&B, a lovely villa perched on a terrace near the railway station, with enchanting views over the town and ocean. A very comfortable room was about 85 Euros per night. The contact point is info@villamargherita.net. John Perry in Alexandria, VA USA 02/09/2007 I loved Rick's guide to Rome. We appreciated the tip about using the side door in the Sistine Chapel to forgo a lot of retracing our footsteps through the Vatican museums.
Also, we rented a car and took the freeway out to the Adriatic coast to visit San Giovanni Rotundo. There wasn't much in the book about that area. It's pretty neat and a visit back in time. We saw goat herders outside the town of San Marco. There is a tourist area there due to St. Padre Pio. The hotels there are pretty nice too. We stayed at a place called Hotel Valle Rossa. They had another hotel down the block where we had delicious broccoli rabe and orrichetto pasta. Kathy Chominski in Wallingford, PA USA 01/30/2007 My favorite tip was to buy a ticket for the Collosseum at the Palitine Hill booth. My wife and I felt like VIPs as we passed the extremely long line. We used a hotel or room from the recomendations and were never shocked or disappointed. The self guided tours were a little hard to follow at times but made agreat companion to sites like the Roman Forum and the ruins of Pompeii. Overall, this book was the most valuable investment we made for our vacation. Oh, and thanks for not allowing me to overlook cicchetti in Venice. Yuuumy! Jamison Fenderson in Issaquah, WA USA 01/26/2007 Gelato! I went here several years ago, but hopefully it's still there: as you exit the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, hug the building to your right, and within a very short walk, there's a gelateria in the wall that was just fantastic.
Also, in Rome, stand with your back to the Pantheon, and walk to the right-hand corner of the square. Another fine gelateria, although next time I'm going to Giolitti's! (Didn't have time last time.)
Looking forward to taking another great trip, made better by your always-perfect hotel recommendations. Thanks! Andrew Horn in San Jose, CA USA 01/22/2007 In Milan and other European cities like Paris) there are guys (mostly African) who will offer you a free string bracelet, tie it on, and then ask for money. My girlfriend learned the hard way in Paris when the guy asked for 5 and she had to give him 2-3 just to make him leave her alone. If anyone tries to give you any stringy thingy refuse it. Don't take it, don't let him put it on you, let it fall on the ground. Be rude and make it very clear you do not want it. Garrett in Newport Beach, CA USA 01/18/2007 On the walking tour through Naples, I would recommend that you suggest that tourists take the walk down "rue duomo". This is where the "nativity artisans" sell there nativity sets and accessories. Good bargains. Colleen Cooper in River Falls, WI USA 01/16/2007 My husband and I went back to Italy for 2 weeks last year after 10 years absence. We were very impressed the amount of people who carried your book. Practically every American we saw was reading your book on plane, train, bus, at restaurants, sights, museums, I mean everywhere. We were very proud of you. Good work, Rick!!! I must say though that we miss the old ones. They were a lot thinner and easier to carry around. Would you like to re-consider going back to the old publisher or at least that thin format, please? Kazumi Dixon in Seattle, WA USA 01/15/2007 Studied (and took with us)Italy 2006 for months for 3 week trip first of Oct/06. Invaluable info. Admit to hiding book from thousands of others we saw carrying it!!! As we were lost a great deal of the time we did "Back Door" without planning to. It was great. Margaret McLean in Chilliwack, BC Canada 01/12/2007 Roma Italy: I am using the 2005 edition so the info may be corrected already. I have been trying to contact Suore di Santa Elisabetta...the heavenly Polish run convent listed. The phone number does not work and I have received no response from the email listed. I did not however receive a kick back from sending the email so perhaps they are just not very technically inclined. either way I do not have any other way to contact this convent. miriam coffey in portland, or USA 01/08/2007 Hey guys, I just wanted to say "thanks so much" for the helpful hints in the guide book for Rome. So much of it helped me in my recent eight day stay in the city, especially some tips on the 'secret' location by the Palatine Hill for purchasing tix to the Colosseum. It helped me avoid the treacherous queue to the regular entrance to this big site destination. Ryan in Lyons, IL USA 01/08/2007 Tips: Listen to Rick and get off the beaten path. Time and time again, we found, whether in Venice or Florence or even Rome, walking a few blocks away could get you completely away from crowds. I know Rick's accomodation tips are good. But for our 2nd trip to Italy, we took things slower. We stayed in appartments and agriturismos. What a difference! We loved going to the quaint grocery shops, bakeries etc. One can also get ready made food that one can heat up, if cooking sounds like too much of a chore. Plus it was a lot less expensive as we were 4 of us. The only down side was that in Florence we had to rent a car but we also made side trips to Chianti and Vinci. Devika Saletore in Olympia, WA USA 01/08/2007 Santa Margherita Ligure was a great base from which to explore Portofino and Cinque Terre and Genoa. Sandi Tedford in Atlanta, GA USA 01/06/2007 Residenza Cellini Hotel, Rome. This is an excellent hotel, with great service. It is on third floor and the elevator is small (only fits 3) so may be unsuitable for families. Apart from this, the hotel is excellent on all counts, extremely clean, nice size, great location and friendly staff. Regina Duane in Carlow, Ireland 01/05/2007 A couple of our favorite hotels on this trip were not in the guide book. One is Hotel Lombardi in Florence (www.hotel-lombardi.net) Vincenzo is one of the nicest people we met in Italy in the 2 1/2 months we were there. His staff is great. They all speak English and are very helpful and accomodating. The hotel, which is just a block from the train station, is fairly quiet. It's clean, spacious, and nicely appointed (each room is named after an artist and has wonderful prints). The breakfast room is sunny and bright and the food is above average. The other hotel we would like to recommend is the Villa Casanova on Lido (www.casanovavenice.com) Although on Lido, it's just a 15 minute vaporetto ride from Piazza San Marcos. One gets a lot more for their money on Lido. The buffet breakfast served in a lovely room was the best we had on our trip, the renovated rooms and bathrooms are spacious and stylish, and the owners understand the word "service". Ilana Slonim in Blairsden , CA USA 01/01/2007 |