Rome 2010Favorite discoveries or tips:I loved the whole book and would never have had such a great and easy trip without it. Getting the RomaPass was a great tip! I am glad I knew about it before spending money and it definitely was awesome walking right past the lines at the Colosseum.I also liked how you rated the different sites as which ones not to miss. However, I would recommend giving the Baths Diocletian 2 or 3 triangles- that was one of my favorite parts (but you are right-the museum there is skipable) We also discovered that it was a pretty easy and enjoyable walk from the Termini station to the Colosseum (we found out because the Metro was down due to a strike). Jennifer Duke in Peabody, MA USA 03/16/2010 Fans of Caravaggio will not see much of his work in the Borghese or Vatican Museum, but there is an exhibition in the Forum Museum featuring his art, to June 2010. Use the buses! Hotels have tourist booklets with bus maps in the rooms - rip it out and use it to save walking. Dale in Fairfield, OH USA 03/05/2010 the priscilla catacombs were amazing. Seeing the first painting ever of Mary and jesus was breathtaking. Def get a slice of Pizza right at the bus stop that leads you back into Rome. The young man who serves the pizza loves all things american and the pizza there is second to Baffeto's pizza close to Piazza Navona. Michaek in NYC, NY USA 03/01/2010 If you are going to see the Colesseum, Palatine and the Roman Forum in one day, I would consider bringing a lunch and eating at the Palatine. There are no cafes or vendors on the Palatine or Forum and after seeing the Colessuem and Palatine, you may get hungry on the way to the Forum! Also, there are beautiful views from the Palatine so it is a great place to take it all in and have a bite to eat. Bevin in Stuttgart, Germany 02/25/2010 We had a wonderful day trip to the Amalfi Coast (on Aug. 6, 2009) thanks to DriverinRome and especially our driver (Luca B). He showed up on time at our hotel, entertained us with wonderful stories throughout our trip and even shared recipes of his favorite dishes. It was like having a friend give you a personal tour of their town. Their great service meant we had a great time! aez in Buena Park , CA USA 02/23/2010 While on a Med cruise this summer, we used Driver in Rome guide service for 3 different trips: Rome, Naples, and Florence. It was the highlight of our trip! The excursions were fabulous! The guides and drivers treated us like we we were family. It was a great experience-much better that any ship excursion, and less expensive! Other passengers on the cruise could not believe what we did on our trips. I would highly recommend Driver in Rome to anyone traveling to Italy. Their web site is www.driverinrome.com Robert Aubel in Coral Springs, FL USA 02/11/2010 Daphne Inn Via degli Avignonesi 20, int. 4, 00187 Rome, Italy. Near Barberini stop. Lovely B&B. small, Franco and colleagues took personal interest in guests. They loaned each guest a cell phone with Daphne Inn emergency numbers pre programmed. They had available computer and free Wi-Fi, which many hotels do not seem to offer. Lovely breakfast with fresh fruit, granola, and locally made pastries, along with coffee made to order. Self guided tours as usual, wonderful-Vatican, St Peters, Borghese, Baths of Diocletian, Pantheon, National Museum, Capitoline Museum, (with short cut to top of "wedding cake") St Peter in Chains. David Neely in Chicago, IL USA 01/31/2010 The book only mention the Leonardo Express between FCO and Rome Termini. For Trastevere it is actually better to take the FR1 from the Airport which is also half the price (5.50 Euro PP). Kobi Israel 12/17/2009 My wife and I stayed at the Hotel Raffaello Via Urbana3-5 near the railroad station. Excellent accomodations for the price and their suggestion for a ristorante "Tema" Via Panisperna, 96-97-98,00184 Roma www.ristorantetema.com or ristorantetema@gmail.com... just one block away was also outstanding. The food, service and atmosphere was great, not to mention the value, since the euro is very strong. The waiters were very helpful and in fact gave us a pkg of pasta because my wife liked it so much. Its not part of the main toursit section but from the clients they had it looked like the locals...check it out. Jerald lee in Sacramento, CA USA 12/12/2009 Traveled to Rome 11/21/09- 11/27/09 my husband, myself and 2 adult sons, 23 and 28. Like everyone else, concern regarding transportation from the airport to our rental- please include Romecabs as an excellent consideration. We booked on line- received e-mail confirmation and a few days prior to arrival received detailed instructions. What a great thing to be greeted at the airport just outside of baggage pick up and taken directly to the door of our rental (which I'm afraid would have been hard to find- a walking alley off of Campo di Fiori!). I called the night before to confirm pick up to return to the airport at 7AM- the driver was early and walked in high heels from the square to our door-. I'm a detail nut- and have used your information with success before for other connections in other cities. However-this is a must for anyone traveling with more than 1 other person- train from FCO to the train station 11 euros/person. Cab from train station to destination maybe another 12 euros (4 adults and 4 bags!?) Romecabs 55 euros each way door to door service- a great bargain and stress reliever- especially for those early flights out to the states. Romecabs- Stefano Costantini tel (+39)339-352-5028 www.romecabs.com Cheryl in Fair Haven, MI USA 12/06/2009 Restaurants near the Termini Train Station. You recommended La Gallina Bianca. It was closed so we tried the restaurant next door, which was reasonable in price and the food was good. It is called Il Tavolinetto, via M. D'Azeglio n. 46 00184, Roma. Phone and fax 06.4823913. We went back for a second visit and invited our traveling companions. The wait staff speaks excellent English and the management is very friendly and helpful. Joanne Miller in Bluffton, SC USA 12/04/2009 The one thing I would add to this guidebook is information on rental Car return at the Rome airport. There are no signs on the highway in any language directing you to where to return your car. You just have to know (or remember) that you need to return it to the covered parking garage. Randy in Durham, NC USA 12/04/2009 The Sistine Chapel shortcut. There is a sign next to it that says it's only for tour groups. We waited in the chapel until we saw other people use it. We followed a group of about 5 people exit. They stopped at the top of the stairs. We didn't know what to do so we continued down. There was a guard in a glass booth at the bottom. He picked up the phone just before we got to him. We thought we were going to get in trouble. We turned to the left to go out the door. I heard a click and thought that we had been locked in. I tried the handle and it opened! He had unlocked the door for us. The other people never came down the stairs! When we finally exited St. Peter's Basilica after touring it, the security lines were very, very long! We were so glad to have skipped them! Thanks for the tip! Jeri in SLC, UT USA 11/29/2009 When taking the train from Civitavecchia to Rome, we purchased a BIRG ticket. It was 9 euros and included the train to and from Rome, the metros and buses. It was a great bargain! I'm surprised it's not included in the book. Jeri in SLC, UT USA 11/29/2009 While in Rome from Nov. 19 to Nov. 23 of this year, I ate dinner in an exquisite restaurant that has been opened only for a month or so. It is called Casa Coppelle and is on the Piazza Delle Coppelle 49, with zip code 00186. The telephone numbers are 06/68891707 and cellular 338/6810585. Tracy Burns in Prague, Czech Republic 11/24/2009 Best discovery and tip, hire Jason Spiehler as a guide. You will not regret it. My boyfriend and I have travelled to Europe many times and this was the first time we hired a guide. Jason made Rome come alive at every turn. If Jason gave a tour of my hometown block, I would book it. He is knowledgable, entertaining and passionate about Rome. After his tour, you will be also. Maritza in Miami, Fl USA 11/16/2009 WE RECENTLY WENT TO ITALY AND VISITED MY NIECE STUDYING IN THE BEAUTIFUL TOWN OF ASCOLI PICENO IN THE MARCHE REGION! ITS IS A BIT OFF THE " TOURIST PATH" , BUT SO WORTH THE TIME . ITS A MAGICAL MIDIEVAL TOWN, ANCIENT TOWERS, AND ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PIAZZA'S. BUILDINGS SCULPTED IN TRAVERTINE, COBBLE STONE WALKS, SURROUNDED BY THE SPECTACULAR SIBILLINI MTS. CHARMING, MAGICAL, A REAL TASTE OF " LA DOLCE VITA" WE LOVED IT!! A 3 HRS BUS TRIP FROM ROME THROUGH THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HILLSIDES OF ITALY!! THE ALBERGO PICENO /HOTEL IS A JEWEL . AND ASCOLI HAS THE BEST GELATO EVER!! **YOU CAN PICK UP THE START BUS A FEW BLOCKS FROM ROME TERMINI! SIT BACK.. AND ENJOY THE RIDE!!!!!!! KATHLEEN in BERLIN , CT USA 11/14/2009 There is nothing better than going to St Peter's Basilica right at 7:00 in the morning is my favorite thing to do. I've done it 3 times now. There are no lines or anything and you have a solid hour or so pretty much alone in that massive building. there is nothing like standing in front of Michaelangelo's Pieta all by yourself! Right around 8:00 we went and climbed to the top of the dome, which I highly recommend. By the time we made it down, 9:00 or so, St. Peters was mobbed! That 60 minutes all alone in St. Peter's is the best! Brian Freund in Keego Harbor, MI USA 11/11/2009 DRIVERINROME Monia Melaragno www.driverinrome.com
Tel : +39 338 4180978 Cell: +39 333 7080868 Office : +39 06 61522395 Fax: +39 06 61532259 B/B: www.rentahouseinitaly.eu B/B : http://www.remodiroma.com/ Claire Sheekey in Wall, NJ USA 11/09/2009 I have noticed that the B&B Arc del Tomolei is consistently recommended by readers. It is not listed in the 2010 rome Guidebook. Is there a problem with this place lately? Andre in Papantonio, Md USA 11/09/2009 Recently I went to Italy for a Cruise with Carnival. I was stumped as to how I would get from the city of Rome to the port in Civitevecchia. Eventually, after a lot of calling around and web surfing I discovered Driver in Rome (driverinrome.com). They were great!!! I needed transfers for 8 people, and other services such as tours in different ports. This company was extremely professional, showed up when they were supposed to, were pleasant and informative. One man even wore a suit and tie. All in all, this was no easy feat. There were 8 of us, none of whom had been to Italy before. The people at driverinrome.com took great care of us and gave us an experience that was probably less generic than the ship's tours would have been. They were so warm and friendly. I have no reservations recommending them to anyone. Since there is so much fraud and scamming on the internet I was hesitant, and more than cautious, about making a reservation without a reference from a reliable source. I read the recommendations on the web and took a leap of faith. So glad I did. Please include them in your guide book for 2010. They deserve it. The contact info is flora@driverinrome.com. The only drawback to this company is that they do not take credit cards. I have mentioned to Flora that they should consider this in the future. It would make things so much easier. Judith Larson in JACKSON HOLE, WY USA 11/07/2009 Saby's at Campo de Fiori. Piazza Campo de Fiori, 53. Tel 06.62205973. Northeast corner of the square. Nice setting, great lunch (48E for the two of us with a bottle of wine), and later that day, great dinner (55E for the two of us with a bottle of wine). Friendly, helpful staff. No service charges. John and Debra Gall in Sequim, Wa USA 11/06/2009 Arco dei Tolomei, a lovely, convenient Bed and Breakfast in Trastevere, excellent service and advice. We went on a friend's recommendation - we would recommend it to anyone, Great value for the money. Susan Handloff in Steamboat Springs, CO USA 11/02/2009 We only use your books when traveling (other than a map now and then). We want to applaud your suggestion of a private tour guide in Rome. While we have never used a "guide" before, we hired Jason Spiehler for his night tour and Vatican Tour. He is an outstanding guide. Very knowledgeable, personable and accomodating. He is worth the money... Jim McCloy in Tallahassee, Fl USA 11/02/2009 As soon as you get in the incredibly long Vatican Museum line, look around for someone offering the group tours. Pay your fee, get your ticket, go into the museum and then pop on your ipod with the Rick Steves downloaded tour and say arrivederci to the group. Congratulations, you just saved 4 hours in line and 1 hour of group tour through the gift shop! Sherri Campbell in Katy, Tx USA 10/18/2009 I would like to recommend an addition to the Italy guidebook. My husband and I traveled to Italy in 2008 and we hired a company for tours of Pisa, Florence, Lucca, and Rome. We were so happy with their service that we hired them again in September 2009 for another tour of Rome and transfers from the airport. The company, Driver in Rome, is owned and operated by Daniele J. Melaragno and the website address is www.driverinrome.com. Phone number: +39 06 61522395. I can't say enough positive things about this company. Every driver was always professional, friendly, and very PUNCTUAL! (on time, every time) in picking us up. Although the drivers do not claim to be tour guides (Italy is very strict about licensure for tour guides), their great English language skills and knowledge of the area added richness and understanding to our vacation. We also needed to make last minute reservations for a transfer to Hertz rent-a-car and they accomodated our request with no problems. We found the rates to be very reasonable also. I will always hire this company every time I travel to Italy. Martha in Rockwall, TX USA 10/16/2009 The internet cafes were extremely affordable -- sometimes 1 euro for the first 20 minutes. And they were everywhere, unlike some other cities in Europe. Laralyn Sasaki in Columbus, OH USA 10/09/2009 Our family recently returned from a trip to Rome and a cruise with stops in Italy and Spain. We had a wonderful time, and a good part of the reason for that was Driver in Rome (driverinrome.com). There were 13 of us in our family, and our ages ranged from grandparents to parents to a 6,3,2,1 and 10(month) year old. We were a large, age-varied group, but Driverinrome was wonderful to us. They picked us up at the airport in Rome, picked up the rest of our family at the hotel, and took us touring (Catacombs of St Priscilla). They then found food for all the hungry, cranky family. The next day they picked us up and took us to the Vatican, where they arranged for a guide. On various other days, they took us anywhere we wanted to go (although sometimes we would just get in the mini-bus and ask the guide to take us somewhere interesting.) They found great restaurants and pizza places for our large family. I recommend Giovanni Carlo as a driver--patient and knowledgeable. Driverinrome also arranged for tours for us in Florence/Pisa/Tuscany/Chianti, and Sicily. The drivers and guides picked us up at the ship and took us touring. In Florence/Pisa, we had a wonderful day--and did so much. Saw David at the Academia, the Uffuzi, all the sights in Florence (did I mention that we were driven to all these places and sights--when the tour buses had to park way far away?), 2 gelato stops, lunch, the leaning tower and many other sights in about 7 hours. The ship tour took 11 hours and they saw the COPY of David and the leaning tower. Driverinrome has special passes (especially in Florence) and they can go where most cars cannot. They can drive us to and park right outside the Academia and Uffezi, for example, and wait for us. In Sicily we went on a beautiful scenic drive to the top of a mountain and explored Erecia --a medieval city, then (at our request) went to the beach to swim in the Mediterranean. Daniele--the owner of Driverinrome, communicated (email and phone) with us often before our trip. We had many questions, and he was knowledgeable and nice. He had suggestions and was a great help. They found car seats for the babies, and his vans and minibusses were comfortable, clean,cool, and perfect for us. The drivers and guides were patient and answered all our questions. We were able to see so much, without wasting time. We all highly recommend our new friends, Driverinrome as a wonderful way to see Italy. Charles in Ajalat, CA USA 10/08/2009 DriverinRome.com was an amazing tour/van alternative for cruise excursions. We got a custom tour in great vehicles nstead of high priced excursions where you are forced to follow a set agenda that is usually not great. We were picked off and dropped off right at the ship exit and went where we wanted when we wanted. Really knowledgable english speaking drivers and great service makes driverinrome.com something you do not want to miss. chris in Los Angeles, ca USA 10/03/2009 Mario's Ristorante (Via Tor de Conti)is practically next door to Hotel Nerva. We liked it so much for dinner that we went back a second night. Excellent pasta dishes (I liked the salmon pasta, and the men loved the seafood risotto. The dessert there was great -- we shared a lemon sorbet that was served inside a frozen lemon, and we also shared the best chocolate gelato of the trip.) Good bread, full bar, not terribly expensive. Outside and inside dining available -- we tried both. Loved our server (Enzo), who was a lot of fun. Cindy in Saint Louis, MO USA 09/30/2009 Warm recommendation to Arco de Tolemei. Great location , hosts who gave us some good tips on what to see and where to eat. Would gladly go back there again and recommend to friends Jonathan Tross in London, UK 09/29/2009 Real Taxis vs. Fake Taxis: When arriving at Roma Termini by train, be sure to look for a taxi outside the main entrance of the train station. This is the side of the building that is single-story, wavy roof with a wall of windows looking out to a parking lot. Do not look for a taxi if you exit one of the arched side entrances that lead directly to side streets. These side entrances are filled with unlicensed taxi drivers looking for people to rip off. They are smooth talkers and will have you and your bags in the car and be driving away before you know it. If you exit the station and do not see a parking lot full of buses and taxis, go back in and find the proper exit. The legitimate taxi rank will be full of courteous, licensed drivers who all use the meters and will not over charge you. Remember: Main entrance = good taxis, Side entrances = bad taxis. Barry in Florence, OR USA 09/27/2009 On our recent trip to Rome, Italy we used Driversinrome.com for our driving tours of the area. Very professional, nice cars, prompt, and very knowledgable drivers with history of the city included. I would highly recommend them. susan meyer in huntsville, AL USA 09/26/2009 I also wanted to add... from my experience from travelling to Rome a few weeks ago. I'm a big shopper and wanted to let you know that business hours in Rome for stores is incredibly lax, more lax than it was three years ago when we went. Many stores are closed all of saturday and sunday, for instance, and not just the small businesses but the big american-type chains as well. Pretty frustrating. Sally in Vancouver, BC Canada 09/20/2009 First, we took the wrong train from Rome to Florence. We ended up heading to Naples! Definitely pay attention to the different boards at Termini stating "departures" vs. "arrivals". Almost impossible to find any person for help on a train to verify the ticket. Second, I would like to give some warning to people heading for Piazza del Popolo. Me and my husband visited Rome for our second time in three years and overall were impressed about how it seemed a lot safer: less gypsies around or in the Metro stations. However it was scary how aggressive they were at this piazza. They hold roses and try to force women to take them, saying it is a gift, but of course they want money afterwards. Also believe I saw this mentioned in the book: that scammers can pretend to be the police and ask you to present your passport. This happened to me and my husband on a tree lined, isolated road Via del Circo Massimo (not far from Colosseum Metro). One guy said he was a police officer (not dressed like one at all) and he works with a second guy who pretends to be a tourist that "cooperates" and shows his passport. Sally in Vancouver, BC Canada 09/20/2009 My family recently spent an extended stay in Rome. We highly recommend Rick's ROME guidebook, as well as his other European guide books. We were especially happy with the eating section. We were treated very well at Miscellanea. Mikki was an outstanding host. I highly recommend this restaurant. Mikki was treated us very well and the value of the meal was outstanding. This was our second visit to Rome. I wish we had used his book the first time. Timothy E. Tidmore in Albertville, Al USA 09/07/2009 This is a recommendation for "Driver in Rome," an excursion transport service in Italy. As travel agents for the Cruise Connection Agency who arranged a Mediterranean Cruise for a group of 26 clients, we highly recommend using "Driver in Rome" for excursions in Rome and Florence. We found them great to work with!! They provided quick responses to questions and answered them thoroughly and stood by agreements in their contract. They were waiting on the dock, easily identifying our group and then returned us to the ship on time. We would book again with Driver in Rome because: *cars or mini-vans transported us curbside to each venue; *tickets to venues were pre-purchased; *English-speaking guide and headsets were arranged for Vatican visit; *qualified drivers were knowledgeable of their country and its history; *flexible scheduling was possible - designed by passengers; *their service was more cost effective than a similar cruise excursion *and the drivers were lots of fun!! We have recommended Driver in Rome to other agents and our clients for use in Italy. We will use their outstanding service when we return. Irene & Dianne, Cruise Connection Agency Dianne Farnworth in Ontario, OR USA 08/31/2009 Driverinrome.com My family and I truly enjoyed a wonderful day in Rome thanks to our driver from driverinrome.com.He was a wonderful host who took care of us. We never had the idea that we were on a commercial trip, he made us feel at home and it even felt like he was having more fun than we did (he mentioned that he loved his job but that was not necessary he showed it all day long). We were in Rome on august 15 so it was a strange adventure with all the natives out of the city. Our diver had the opportunity to show us things off the beaten track and he did. He organized lunch for us out of the tourist area and we had a great and delicious lunch with the last remaining Romans in the city on Ferragusta. On behalf of my family and myself we would like to take this opportunity and say thank you once again for a wonderful day. This day was one of the highlights of our vacation. Johannes Schreurs in Herkenbosch, Netherlands 08/24/2009 In Italy take private tours with www.driverinrome.com Al Esposito in delray beach, USA 08/22/2009 Stay until the end of your two hour window at the Borghese Gallery. Most people had cleared out by the last half hour and it was magical to revisit all of the rooms with no one in them. We splurged on an after hours tour of the Vatican Museum. It was outrageously expensive, but if you can do it, it's worth every penny to spend time in the Sistine Chapel with only a dozen people. Laura Logan in Kirkland, WA USA 08/04/2009 We went to Rome and Paris in July and relied exclusively on the city guidebooks, both of which are excellent. I wanted to share some experiences on the following topics: 1. ROME TAXI FARE FROM AIRPORT TO HOTEL: Not surprisingly, like everything else, this fare seems to have gone up. I followed the advice to pass on the shills pushing van service into town (“only €60; the taxis will charge you €75”) and went to the taxi stand where a sign said the rate was €60 and that the €40 rate (p. 30) applied only after October 1. After we had agreed to pay €60 and settled into a taxi into the city, I removed a €100 bill from my money belt (I thought this would be a safer location than fumbling with a money belt in front of the hotel across from Termini) and put the bill into my shirt pocket. Big mistake. I was on “pickpocket alert” for vagrants, gangs of children, goofy gladiators, and everyone in or near a subway terminal… 2. PICKPOCKETS: …but not taxi drivers. This guy was really good. I still don’t know exactly when or how he did it. All I know is I had a €100 bill in my pocket, the car windows were down (so it could not have flown out the window), and within 15 minutes the bill was gone. I searched high and low in the car but, of course, it was nowhere to be found. I considered calling him on this, but was he going to admit he took it? I also considered summoning the polizia, but I chose not to get into a legal hassle in a foreign country where I don’t speak the language and couldn’t prove what had happened. This guy was so smooth – it could not have been the first time he had performed this feat. This must be common knowledge among the Rome taxi fraternity, and it is difficult to believe that whoever is in charge of Rome taxis would tolerate this. Then again, it’s just as unbelievable that the Rome authorities condone the frequent thievery that is performed by their citizenry as simply another acceptable occupation, when it could easily be reduced by stationing a few police officers near the Metro stations, tourist sites and other hotbeds of pick pocketing. I understand that we are “naïve” and plenty of people think Rome is worth the risk; but for me, life is too short, my travel budget is too tight, and there are lots of other worthy destinations where you don’t have to always be concerned that everyone you meet is out to steal from you whatever they can get their hands on. Places like… 3. PARIS: We were somewhat apprehensive about how Parisians were treating American tourists these days. But, without exception, everyone we met was at the very least cordial and in most cases very friendly and helpful. To me, Paris is way more beautiful and interesting than the city mentioned previously. And no one stole anything from us. Gordon USA 07/17/2009 Two tips on the Vatican were dead on. We were in Rome from 7/4/09 to 7/12/09. We followed your suggestion to go to the Vatican city after noon to avoid the lines and there were none. It was amusing to hear the people trying to sell tours to avoid the lines when there weren't any. Second - the short cut from the Sistine Chapel to St. Peters saved us a good 20 minute very hot walk. The Roma pass saved us a long line at the Colloseum. Dave in Milwaukee, Wi USA 07/14/2009 We had a great trip to Rome in large part due to our tourguide Micaela Pavoncello who heads the JewishRoma walking tours. Not only did we enjoy the tours but our three children enjoyed them as well. I strongly recommend contacting her and her web site to arrange your next trip to Rome. s berger in new rochelle , ny USA 07/13/2009 There was a place near the Il Rosiario called Delizie di Calabria. Amazing 2 to 3 euro sandwiches. It was at 21 via Serpiente. It would be nice to have it listed as a place in ancient Rome since there were few places listed there. Russell in Metaire, La USA 07/08/2009 Get a good map as soon as you arrive and carry it everywhere. Then relax and wander the streets you will be surprised by what you find that way. Crystal Young in Swanton, Oh USA 07/05/2009 In the future, I want to stay for more than a day. AND not on a Sunday. Amanda in New York, NY USA 06/25/2009 Palazzo del duca, Rome, Navona square I have had a great experience in Rome. I strongly recommend it for uniquess! An antique aristocratic building in the heart of Rome, a luxurious epoch residence, top quality comforts Lia in Berten, Ca USA 06/17/2009 Palazzo del duca, Rome, Navona square Lia in Berten, Ca USA 06/17/2009 Jewish Ghetto Tour of Rome with Micaela Pavoncello!! A friend suggested we contact Micaela at jewishroma@gmail.com for a unique walking tour of the Jewish Ghetto in Rome. It was amazing! Micaela is a wonderful and knowledgeable guide and it proved to be one of the most enjoyable parts of our entire Italy trip. Whether you're Jewish or not the historical significance of the ghetto is astounding and Micaela a not to be missed tour experience. Cory in NYC, NY USA 06/16/2009 Don't miss National Museum of Rome! As advertised, it indeed had an extensive collection of Roman sculpture, and my husband loved the downstairs history/collection of coin and gold jewelry. We were also fascinated by the mummy on display downstairs, with accompanying exhibits and short video about its find. However, I was absolutely entranced by the entire 4th floor, especially the reconstruction of individual rooms of a villa excavated beneath Rome Termini train station, complete with frescoes, mosaics, and extensive explanations. Hard to believe so much history from more than 2000 years ago could be extracted and preserved in such amazing condition. A couple of rooms felt like stepping back into that time. That museum captivated our interest for well over 3 hours. We would just double-underscore Rick's guidebook cautions about how not to 'get taken' in Rome. We took all the euros we would need with us, stashed in those wonderful Steves moneybelts, and felt completely safe and not hassled the entire trip. However, we met and talked with many people in Rome (and people in Florence who'd been to Rome) who time after time told of unpleasant price surprises, mostly related to food. It happened to us, too, in one restaurant. Bottom line: make 'how much please?' and 'same price if I sit or stand?' a standing part of your vocabulary! Also, by sheer blind luck we missed being in Rome during the soccer playoffs (Barcelona vs Manchester United). We only learned about it on the Leonardo Express train into Rome, which was packed with some of the thousands of fans about to descend upon the city. Thankfully, we were training on to Florence (no offense, soccer fans!) and read about it in the papers the next day! We may have also lucked out on our trip timing, or else travel is Italy is a bit slow right now. We had no problems securing a lovely room 2 wks in advance, never had to wait in a line (including at Accademia), and were there when a cool front moved in for a few days, which was really nice. Also thoroughly enjoyed just walking the city on Sunday. The entire main drag of the city was cordoned off for a big cycling event - lots of fun to watch with the locals while window shopping! Also on the train (Leonardo Express), as you suggested, good to hang onto those tickets. We watched a conductor fine an American woman 66 euros in cash on the spot when she could not produce the required 11-euro ticket. Other: bring all the cash you'll need and wear the Rick Steves money belt! We never got hassled except briefly by a couple of white-face gypsies dressed in sheets as nuns in the piazzas in Florence. Cecilia in Dallas, Te USA 06/15/2009 We had a very nice stay at the convent of the Sisters of the Palotine across the street from the Vatican. I would love to see more listings for convent and monastery stays. Maggie Flynn in Florissant, MO USA 06/01/2009 Just got back from Rome. We used Rick Steves' Rome guidebook which worked wonderfully! One of the things which we did which I don't think was mentioned in the book (I think it was posted by someone on the wall though) was using key rings to secure the zippers on our backpacks. This worked great... we had absolutely no issue with pickpockets and felt very secure (they were hard for US to get off so I knew we would definitely notice if anyone else was trying to!). It also worked great for keeping us on budget... you really had to want something to want to go through the effort of taking it off to get to your money! LOL Jeni in Beaver Dam, WI USA 05/31/2009 Rick, I just returned from visiting Ostia Antica. I used the Rome 2009 guidebook and it was very helpful ( as have been all of your books that I have used.) I have a tip for others who may be doing the Ostia Antica side trip. When you do the Ostia itinerary Rick sets out in Rome 2009 you end up at the cafeteria and gift shop. My tip will save wear and tear on sore feet after walking on the Roman pavement of the Via Decamanus. When you leave the cafeteria you will see another modern building to your left that has staff parking and a large display of marble that was handled by the port. The driveway to this building is a paved asphalt drive. It is tree shaded and if you follow it it takes you back to the entry gate. An added plus ids that this driveway which runs North of and parallel to the Via Decamanus is a bit elevated so on your walk back to the entry you can get some additional perspectives on the sites. I particularly enjoyed the stroll on the driveway and it is downhill all the way too. I picked up on this driveway after I saw a teacher with her elementary age school group take her charges on the drive. Rick, I am glad to hear you are doing an audio guide for Ostia Antica. I wish I had it for this trip. Patrick Pietrzak in Burke, VA USA 05/21/2009 A little more in the way of directions would be helpful. Matthew A. King in Brighton, CO United States 05/20/2009 I think we found the one thing that was missing in your Rome book, Rick, that has to go in there: A wine tasting where you learn about Italian wines, in perfect English (!), get to taste great wines and have a lot of fun: The tastings organized by Hande (yes, that is her name!) at "vino roma". We (and I saw many many more reviews) are 1000% happy with this great experience. She has a great website, I guess that would be the best way to contact her (navigating and booking was very easy!): www.vinoroma.com Barbara Parag in Iowa City, IA USA 05/17/2009 Loved the audio tours. Recommend reserving admission for the Vatican Museum to blow past the line. Shortcut to St Peters from Sistine Chapel is worth the price of the book. Steve Raffensperger in Leola, PA USA 04/11/2009 This is a recommendation for one of the tour companies listed in the Rome 2007 guidebook. I have great faith in Rick Steves' recommendations and we were not disappointed! I sent a thank you to Through Eternity tours and they asked if I would forward my feedback to the source of the tour recommendation. I found a recommendation for the Through Eternity tour company for Rome in the Rick Steves Rome 2007 guide book. I contacted Through Eternity for two tours...one for the Vatican and one for the Colosseum, the Forum and Palatine Hill. My 15 year old daughter and I had a terrific time with Thomas, the tour guide assigned to our small group for both of the arranged tours. He was incredibly knowledgeable and personable. We would have been disappointed in anything less. This was my daughter's first trip abroad. She had been studying ancient Rome and the Italian Renaissance. We couldn't have asked for a better tour for the two of us. The day we spent at the Colosseum, Forum and Palatine Hill was like being in our own History Channel episode. Thank you to Rick Steves' and company for the excellent recommendation! Best regards and thank you for such consistently enjoyable travel guide books and travel shows. Robin Pass Robin Pass in Wakefield, MA USA 04/07/2009 Albergo Artorius on Via Boschetto 13 in Rome would be an excellent addition to your guidebook. I don't want to sound like a commercial, but it is an excellent 10 room hotel in an incredible location. The family who runs it takes a personal interest in each guest, fluent English, impeccable cleanliness, 185 E per night. We have never felt safer or more secure than our 7 night stay. Reminds me very much of Rue Cler area in Paris. Breakfast incl, lots of local restaurants within easy walk. contact at info@hotelartorius.com, phone-06-482 1196 The only place we will consider for return trips to Rome.I am not affiliated with hotel at all. contact me?dcamper@yahoo.com Dianne Camp in Phoenix, AZ USA 04/05/2009 Gran Caffe Strega in the Piazza Viminale looks like it would be terrible, all cheesy neon and multi-lingual menus. My friends and I referred to it as "Santa Monica Pier." But it had the best pizza I have ever tasted in my life. And I tried the pizza everywhere in Italy, including the Napoli recommendations. It's melt-in-your-mouth pizza. After six weeks in Rome, I came home and literally had dreams about the pizza from the "witch cafe." Walk past the cafeteria-style lines in the front and ask for a seat in the restaurant in the back. Michelle in Los Angeles, CA USA 03/10/2009 We went to the crazy Sunday only Flea Market!!! we had a BLAST people watching and watching all the sales people battle each other for customers. I can honestly say that we were probably the only tourists at the market and it was well worth a walk down! We would of NEVER known about it if it had not been in the book. The book was worth every penny and we saw a lot of other people carrying the book around just like us. We met a couple at dinner one night that had the book and they did the same thing we did with the Roma Pass and all the suggestions you recommended. Fantastic book and tips! Darcie Clark in Richlands, NC USA 02/24/2009 Amazing descriptions of all important sites in Rome! We did not need a guide with this book...it explained the background on everything we saw! Evelyn Fernandez in Jericho, NY USA 02/03/2009 For transportation between the airport in Rome and accommodations, I recommend Stefano Repertorio (Email: stefanogrey.car@alice.it Cell: (39) 3484796835) Stefano was reliable and on-time despite plane delays, and has a van, useful for families or groups of more than 4. In January 2009 Stefano's rate for six people was 70 euros, only slightly more than the train would have cost. David Haley in Skokie, IL USA 01/21/2009 There is a unique sight unlike anything else in Rome for anyone with interest in WW II very near San Giovanni Laterano that seems to be virtually unknown to English language guidebook authors -- I knew about it only from a very cryptic reference in fine print of Insight guide, as it's not in Steves, LP, or Fodor's. It is the "Museo Storico della Liberazione di Roma" at 145 Via Tasso (historical museum of the liberation of Rome). This small museum is actually located in the original detention cells used by the Germans during their occupation of Rome, Sept. 1943-June 1944. Except for adding the exhibits, the cells have been preserved as they were on June 4, 1944, the day of liberation, including poignant inscriptions on the walls scratched by the prisoners. Many of the victims of the Ardeatine Caves massacre were held here. The museum contains exhibits on Italian resistance, persecution of the Jews, etc. -- mostly photographs and documents in Italian, but with some relevant objects, a good guidesheet in English, and enough other translation for sufficient understanding by non-Italians. It's a moving visit about a relatively little-known aspect of WW II. Depending on which info source you consult, hours are either 9-7 weekdays except Monday, and weekends 9-12:30; or, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10-12:30 and 4-7,and Wed., Sat. and Sun. 9:30-12:30 (I visited last Thurs. at about 4 pm). Tel/fax 06-7003866. Admission free. This place deserves a mention in the discussion of San Giovanni Laterano area with cross-reference to historical sidebar on Rome in WW II later in the book, or vice-versa. I'd give it two stars for visitors with serious interest in WW II, otherwise, definitely worth knowing about if otherwise visiting this area. Totally unrelated, if you're a bird-lover take a stroll in the Villa Borghese park near the Galleria Borghese before or after the museum visit and keep an eye and ear out for colorful feral green parrots -- the Rome equivalent of the "Parrots of Telegraph Hill". Philip in Washington , DC USA 01/21/2009 Jason Spiehler as tour guide. On Rick's recommendation, we booked Jason for a private tour of the Vatican and for group tours of the Ancient City and a City Night Walking Tour. He was fantastatic. He was knowledgeable and entertaining and our kids learned a lot. I highly recommend him. Lee in New York, NY USA 01/18/2009 Wendy Holloway's Flavor of Italy Inn in Riano, Italy. Via Stazzo Quadro, 15/B 00060. Phone 39)06.903.6175 Fax 39)06.233.229.617. email wholloway@flavorofitaly.com website www.flavorofitaly.com Tracey Mottola in Santa Fe, NM USA 01/01/2009 My only complaint is that there were many bathrooms like those of the third world. This may sound gross, but women should learn how to pee standing up, if they don't know how to already, and to carry TP at all times. D. in Dallas, TX USA 12/31/2008 We booked two group tours with Through Eternity but since this was a slow time of year (early December), my wife and I were the only two on each tour and we were NOT charged extra for a private tour. We spent 3 hours with Gracelyn on the Rome at Twilight tour and 8 hours with Thomas on the Vatican tour. Their fund of knowledge regarding art, sculpture and history is phenomenal. I would highly recommend Thorough Eternity for guided tours in Rome. Richard Young in Cartersville, Ga USA 12/16/2008 Vatican Tour with Brenda Bohen Kim Masson in Brooklyn, NY USA 12/05/2008 Through Eternity Tours in Rome offers the most informative and affordable tours in Italy! Compared to tours taken in other Italian cities, this was by far the best company. Its concept of hiring American or fluent english speaking students living in Rome makes a huge difference! Patricia in Oceanside, CA USA 11/26/2008 Thank you for telling people about taking copies of your passport. I was a victim of passport theft in Rome metro. Money and credit cards in money belt were safe, but due to money belt "overcrowding" I had passport in fanny pack, I thought was closely guarded. You can guess the outcome, stolen and not even noticed until the next day! They are very good. You might want to include in the book the credit card agency numbers for Experian, Transperian and/or TransUnion. These were needed and invaluable in my first 24 hour protection plan. Also US Embassy does charge $103 for replacement passport. Sandra I in Huntington Beach, CA USA 11/19/2008 We opted to rent a flat. The location was excellent (just off the Campo de'Fiori) and cost was no more than we would have spent for a hotel. Colleen in Wolfisberg, WA USA 11/17/2008 We would not have had as great a time as we did without my Rick Steves Rome 2008 book! It is in most of our pictures!! So easy to follow and such great information. The tips in the book we spot on and we can't thank you enough! Erica Ryan in Bakersfield, CA USA 11/10/2008 Rome & Piu pass. Also, don't miss Santa Maria in Travestare church. It's nearly 800 years old and the art in, around and over the altar is wonderful. Randy Clark in Menifee, ca USA 10/22/2008 I have to emphasize the advantage of using an approved guide in Rome or going with a guided group. The reason is the ticket lines to everything are LONG...and this was in October. The line for ordinary people going to the Colosseum wrapped around the Colosseum itself. The line for the Vatican went from the entrance to the museum all the way around into the north east entrance to St. Peter's square. "Approved" guides get you in right away...particularly if your venue ticket price is already in their fee. BTW, because our knees aren't what they used to be, we used a guide with a car. Very expensive, but this was our once in a lifetime to see the Eternal City and we had to optimize on time and minimize knee wear and tear. Richard York in Tyler, TX USA 10/21/2008 An update to the way the Rome airport now works. There is a new terminal "5" in addition to terminals A, B & C. It is for outbound morning passengers for American and Delta (and maybe Continental). It is not listed on many of the signs at the airport itself. The challenge is that you CAN'T walk to it like the other terminals. You have to take a small, free shuttle bus. You have to catch the shuttle (about the size of a rental car shuttle) at terminal C. It takes about 5 minutes to get to terminal "5". The issue is that if you don' know this, you wander around in terminals A,B and C looking for the American or Detla gates. This may cost you valuable time. Once you get to terminal "5", you go through secutiry twice, check in, check bags, go through security and x-ray. Then, back on a big shuttle bus and you are taken back to terminal C where the airplane is. Believe me. You will need two hours to get through all this, so getting lost on the front end can be hazardous to catching perhaps the only flight of the day to your outbound destination. PS: This tip can go into the Italy book as well. Richard York in Tyler, TX USA 10/21/2008 Street names are on the sides of buildings (I kept looking for street signs on poles). Margaret Hall in Knoxville, tn USA 09/23/2008 The Jewish Rome tour by Micaela Pavoncello was delightful - she told us her story and gave us an interesting picture of what it is like to be Jewish in Rome. Her associate, Mindy, gave an interesting Vatican museum tour with a Jewish twist. kay greenblatt in suffern, ny USA 08/10/2008 Trattoria Antonio al Pantheon, Via dei Pastini 12. This family-run place on a back alley NE of the Pantheon’s piazza is full of energy and decorated with old world charm. The food is very good and well priced. We had lunch there one afternoon and went back for a more elaborate dinner with wine for our last night in Rome (35€ and 65€). Mary Jo & Patrick in Portland, OR USA 07/29/2008 The company , Context Rome, should be given even more importance in your guidebook because the guide we used for the Vatican, Richard Bown, was so thourough and knowledgable, that we just had the most wonderful experience. He is humorous and irreverant, but in a witty, intellectual way. He should be a history profesor, and probably would be, if he lived anywhere but Rome! He was well worth the time and the price. The experience was wonderful! Joanne Longobardi in Denver, Co USA 07/25/2008 Ristorante Aristocampo, Via della Lungaretta, 73, Trastevere. Generous portions, great staff, tasty food. Trattoria Da Enzo, Via Ostiense 36, Testaccio -- who knew there was great food in Testaccio? Amazing pastas, sumptuous panna cotta, hospitable. Crypta Balbi -- if you get the archaeologia pass this is included, and if you have any archaeological interests this almost-deserted museum is great fun, not to mention a calm, air-conditioned refuge from the streets outside. Every hour or so they take folks down to the excavated areas under the museum, and the floors above house a nice little museum. Hotel Pyramid: well located a few blocks south of the Piramide metro. Colin in Seattle, WA USA 07/23/2008 GET LOST!!! That is right, take a good map, and allow yourself to get lost. We stayed for 5 days in Rome, and allowed ourselves to wander tiny alleys and streets. We ducked into small busy cafes and osteria that were busy with locals (you can tell by the dress code) and after some refreshment we were off again, eventually finding a street sign and where we were. This was our first independent trip to Europe, and we certainly had some reservations about doing it ourselves, (we are mid-60s), but it was great! I tear pages from the Guidebook, carry it along. You cannot do that with other tour books! Saves on the weight of carrying too much each day, and when it is hot, added weight is a trial. Joanie and George in Orlando, FL USA 07/12/2008 Please add Il Colle degli Ulivi to your 2009 Rome guide book as it will offer your readers a true Italian experience. It's a B & B outside of Rome, but it's an easy 30 minute train ride into the city. The owners enjoy giving guests a personal tour of the smaller surrounding towns and preparing homegrown meals. Their motto is "Enjoy your life." Tuyet in Arlington, TX USA 07/12/2008 We feel as if we have truly enjoyed the best of Rome! Thank you for the walks, the information, the many "tours" to choose from and all the helpful information about times and prices, etc. We feel as if Rick was with us at every Bistro, every spectacular site! Grazie! We will ALWAYS travel with Rick Steves Wendy A. Paterson, Ph.D. in Buffalo, NY USA 07/09/2008 While staying in Rome these past two weeks, out hotel (Hotel Cheap and Chic, was Hotel Ferraro) had "technical problems", so they moved us to a new place up by Termini. It's three blocks north of the station, called "Hotel Dama". It's only about two months old, and I can heartily recommend this place. It was neat and clean, mostly quiet (some noise from the building's central courtyard), inexpensive (100 Euros a day for a two twin beds), has wireless internet and a computer in the office for checking email and such (I hate to say it, but this is getting harder to avoid using), but most importantly, the manager rocked. My sister's luggage got lost by the airline and he personally tracked it down for her (making several phone calls, including some in the middle of the night!), saving the jet-lagged woman a lot of stress and language problems. We also had problems with our credit cards when it came time to pay the night before we left, but he was very patient with the troubles, which helped our stress level quite a lot. Totally recommend this place. John Weiss in Boulder, CO USA 06/23/2008 Runners' tour - new offering by Context Rome. Meet guide early on Sunday morning and do a 2 hour run stopping at sites along the way. Highlight of the trip for my husband and cross-country running daughter. Ann Blalock in Katy, TX USA 06/22/2008 In Rome, the small, comfy Welrome Hotel is walkable to/from the train station. http://www.welrome.it/ We LOVE this place! The owners are super helpful and are happy to answer everything you could possibly want to ask, make reservations for you, and more. Betty in Asheville, NC USA 06/17/2008 Yes! If you're going to Rome, we recommend the B&B we stayed at: KIWI BED AND BREAKFAST. It's cheap, well-designed (especially the private bathroom we got to use) and the hosts were really helpful and friendly. We discovered that you don't have to pay a fortune to be close to everything downtown (it was a 15 minute walk to the historical centre - great location - close to everything). ERIN in KAVANAGH, QC CANADA 06/17/2008 Your recommendation of the Roma Pass was a huge money saver, thanks! Jean Hoffmann in Pleasant Prairie, WI USA 06/05/2008 Favorite place to eat in Rome for Guidebook. We went to a restaurant called Bir & Fud in Trestevere and it was FABULOUS!! Not only do they have tons of Belgian and other beers to help compensate those of us that aren't wine drinkers and need a good beer as opposed to Peroni and Moretti, almost all the food here has high quality and ingrediants. Organic chicken, the crust for the pizzas has a yeast strain going back 150 years. Ask for Alex, he is the GM. He talked to us for on and off an hour talking about his chef and where he has worked in LA and why he went back to Rome. This is a must add for your book. The address is 23 Via Benedetta in Trastevere. www.birefud.it. Jeff Berlat in Houston, Tx USA 05/26/2008 Highly recommend Ristorante Schiavi D'Abruzzo. Open til 2:00 am. They sent a free car to our hotel in Aldobrandeschi & took us back after dinner. Food & service great and not too expensive. Tel 06.661.565.91 Steve Coney in League City, Te USA 05/24/2008 We found the recommendations about pre-booking tickets for the Vatican invaluable. Traveling with my 3 year old son, meant that we were keen to shorten any waits. We would not have been able to go with the size of the queue while we were there. However we had, on your recommendation we had pre-booked them online and this worked out very well. Similarly the Roma Pass, saved us a huge heart-ache. So thank you for all the help and assistance :) Triona in Cork, Co Ireland 05/18/2008 I would like to suggest adding the evidence of the melted coins in the Basilica Aemilia in the Forum. I remembered this from being there as a child and thought the book would include it, but it didn't, and I did not get to see it. Meredith Esham in Bethesda, MD USA 04/30/2008 Might want to add the "Hotel Golden" in Rome to your list. Very clean, lots of help and very good breakfast. We got the time mixed up in the first morning and were late for breakfast, no problem they dropped what they were doing and made a breakfast for us. Very good stay. Hotel Golden, Via Marche 84, 00187 Rome Ph# 39.06.4821659 Fax# 39.06.4821660 Kelly Krug in Nanaimo, BC Canada 04/20/2008 I got the most gelato for my money (3.50 euros for a large waffle cone) at Gelateria Tartufo, located at 69/69A Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, telephone 06-6861704. Hostaria da Nerone, located at 96 Via delle Terme di Tito, telephone 06-4817952, is small and serves delicious meals. The Ristorante Pizzeria, located at 9/11 Via Flamina (just north of the Piazza del Popolo) serves the BEST pizza in Rome (try the Boscaiola pizza!) and a COLD bottle of mineral water. La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, located at 16 Via Madonna dei Monti, telephone 06-6798643, is friendly, family owned and operated, and serves delicious meals. The Antico Caffe Greco, located near the Spanish Steps at 84 Via Condotti, has been serving coffee (delicious!) since 1760. Joseph in Harlingen, TX USA 04/18/2008 Newly opened frescoed rooms in Augustus's House are available to enter now on Palatine Hill. Only 5 people at a time are allowed to enter but when we were there in March, the line wasn't long. Follow the signs to Augustus house, then there is a first line to enter the area. 10 people are allowed in at a time here, then when you arrive at the rooms, another line forms where 5 people at a time are allowed inside the beautifully restored rooms. Lorrie in Cincinnati, Oh USA 04/11/2008 Ditirambo Piazza della Cancelleria 74 in Campo di Fiori. 06 687 1626. phenomenal food, good service, very pleasant/cozy dining room. About the same price as others in your guide book, but with a well-priced and huge, excellent wine list. comparable to ostaria pontesisto in price and quality, very convenient to Campo di Fiori, and much much better than Ristorante Carbonara on the campo. Robert in Longview, wa USA 04/06/2008 I cannot believe that in the Rome 2008 there was no mention of the beautiful San Andrea della Valle. it is the second largest church in Rome after St. Peter's and is astonishing. We just happened to go inside one day on the way to the grocery store andwere completely amazed by this building. Rick, this should definitely be a major sight for Rome. Also, I believe I saw you, Rick, at the Colosseum in February. Am I right? Nancy in Harwich, MA USA 04/06/2008 Just returned from Rome, where the best part for my family were the two guided tours we had arranged through Through Eternity Tours. Thomas from Through Eternity took us on the Rome At Night By Car Tour on our first day in Rome in March, 2008. Thomas was so knowledgeable, and interesting and gave us insight into all the historic sights we saw in Rome -- from the Forum to Trastevere and all Seven Hills, and the very nicest places to see Rome by night!! Thomas is a total gentleman, and he is a history genius … smart and funny and answers any questions. By the end of our first day in Rome, we had seen most of the historic sights, (driven in a beautiful Mercedes van), got out, toured around, saw the fountains, spanish steps -- you name. Then, we spent the rest of the week going to our favorites for a closer inspection. The next day, Gracelyn from Through Eternity took us on a tour of St. Peter's, Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. We looked around and she pointed out all the details, history and stories of how it all came to be. She was wonderful .... this is a site I would never have wanted to see on my own. Through Eternity managed my family's need (at the last minute) to walk slowly through St. Peter's Basilica due to my Mother's weak health, and then talked the guards at the Vatican Museum into loaning us a wheelchair to accommodate Mom's lifelong desire to see the Vatican despite her inability to stand in line for hours!! Gracelyn told us stories about the Saints and history of the Vatican that were so compelling, I think about certain scenes and Gracelyn's insightful information almost every day. Thomas and Gracelyn made our trip a dream trip!! This was the best thing we did to make our trip to Rome complete -- we were at home in Rome after their very wonderful tours. So easy , just Google them and reserve!! Peggy in Washington, DC USA 04/04/2008 Guest House Arco dei Tolomei Via dell’Arco dè Tolomei 27 - 00153 Roma Tel. 06 58 320 819 - www.inrome.info - www.guesthousearcodeitolomei.com Ponce de Leon in Paris, France 03/05/2008 There is now a little train that leaves from in front of the Borghese Gallery and goes around the gardens. Very restful, cheap and different. April Smith in Stonington, CT USA 02/24/2008 Yesterday, we decided to eat lunch at one of my favorite places in Rome for lunch, Enoteca Corsi. My friend Antonio, who lives here in Rome, had introduced me to this place a few years ago, and usually it's 90 percent locals eating there. It's also listed on the Italian website "Slowfood" which specializes in finding restaurants where the food is an art. So I felt it was not exactly a secret place, but still, not a touristy place, and I like bringing people here as one of my "finds." Yesterday, we were seated next to a table of four people. I could hear American accents...a middle aged couple sitting on my side, so I couldn't really see them, and a younger American couple seated on my partner's side. The young man of the younger couple was speaking good Italian to the owner who was helping with serving. My partner noticed that the older couple was carrying a guidebook so he said to me, sotto voce, "this place must be getting known in the guidebooks because I see them carrying one." "Oh? Which guide book are they carrying?" He glanced over, and after a few seconds said: "Rick Steves Italy." Rats, I thought Now EVERYBODY will know about this place. I took a quick glance over. I almost fell out of my chair. It WAS RICK STEVES and his wife! He was carrying his own guidebook! Later, we ran into them later at my favorite coffee bar, Tazza D'oro. Damn! So Rick is out there now, checking out the 2008 book for your 2009 edition! p.s. He's a lot taller than I thought! Cristina in Pitttsburgh, PA USA 02/19/2008 RICK STEVES PERFORMS MIRACLE AT VATICAN! The Sistine Chapel was full of people. After soaking in the fine art, we prepared to exit. Grasping the Rick Steves' Rome book like a golden ticket, I led the family past the sign that read "tour groups only" and through the open door to freedom. As we descended the long, silent stairs, the security guard in his little shack looked at us, I was nervous: would he kick us out? Ask for our special tour guide pass? No. The guard smiled then began reading his newspaper as the American family walked by: husband, wife, and four cute kids--nearly a tour group but not quite. Because of this secret shortcut we were able to enjoy the spectacle of St Peters, and when we left at noon, the line for St Peters was wrapped completely around the square. We were absolutely grateful for this tip. Because of the shortcut all of us, even the kids (ages 10, 9, 5, & 4) were happy and relaxed; PLUS we had time to see some other things on our list that day. It was a miracle! Thank you Rick Steves! Keri Wellman in Oberickelsheim, Germany 02/18/2008 The metro closing is somwhat erratic, closed at 10:30pm one night. Liz Phelps in Pittsburg, CA USA 02/18/2008 Don't pay the inflated Piazza Navona prices for a meal! Exit the Piazza west (by Restaurant Tre Scalini)and look for Navonna Notte, on a corner by via del Teatro Pace; great pizzas/atmosphere/service; popular with locals - prices very fair - Feb 08 a meal for four with starters/main/desserts/ plenty of wine and beer was just under €20 per head! Graham Quinlivan in Hagley, UK 02/15/2008 Case Romane Del Celio museum on Clivo di Scauro underneath church of Ss.Giovanni and Paolo. It cost 6 euroand is down the block from the Arch of Constatine. Easy walk. Rocco Curro in Newark, DE USA 02/14/2008 The guide I had from Rome Walks was excellent, and I learned so much more from him than I would have using the self-guided walks in Rick's book (Twilight Walk from Campo di Fiori to the Spanish steps and the Jewish Ghetto & Trastevere) Brian Gulledge in Woodbridge, VA USA 02/11/2008 Florence should definitely be included for a day trip. 1.5hrs. on Eurostar train. George Byrons restaurant on Via Nationale near Piazza della Repubblica-fun place to have cocktails and great pasta for a very reasonable price. Soo Jung Lee in Decatur, GA USA 01/19/2008 We found service to be very uneven in Rome, and generally in all of Italy. However, we found that a smile and some patience goes a long way in dealing with the crankiest of service people. We found only a few occasions where we thought the waiter, staff or salesperson was a lost cause. Chris in Darnestown, MD USA 12/16/2007 Micaela Pavoncello's walking tours of Jewish Rome. Very informative and really interesting. You will enjoy yourself and learn alot. Deborah in Merion Station, PA USA 12/09/2007 I often travel at the end of December and really need to know what is open or closed on Dec. 25th. I am reading the Rome guidebook and not finding that information. Other than that, I love the guidebook! Kim in Omaha, NE USA 12/09/2007 Ristorante Lingua Lunga was fantastic--we ate there three nights in a row after a number of disappointing experiences. (I live in Sicily, so I'm not about to have bad food or service!) It's about four blocks from the corner of the Vatican by the museum. Address is Piazza Dell 'Unita 25/27 (Via dei Gracchi) 00192 Roma Tel. 06.32.60.0166 Maryellen Pienta in Catania, Italy 11/16/2007 I ordered airport pickup by private car and driver through the pensione I stayed in while in Rome ( through their website before, and at the pensione on leaving). The savings were dramatic, compared with hiring this service on the internet sites. I paid 45 euros each way, with one driver coming at 6 AM at no extra charge. What is not really explained is the long distances and many escalators to manage at the airport and the Central Station in Rome. Its okay if you are 20 and in shape, but for over 70's crowd it would be a major stretch. For what it is worth, the food in Rome was mediocre and overpriced. I ate at two of Steve's recommendations, and felt both were only adequate. The best food in Rome is in the deli's and pizza joints. The maps are only passable, and not worthy of the rest of the material, which is excellent. I noticed several older man wore their money and cards inside their shirts, as I did. I will never travel any other way again. Lots of roving hands in Rome. John K Adams in Hopkins, , SC USA 11/15/2007 Would like to second Mrs. Goodwin's comments about the LaPlata B&B on Piazza Viminale. Had a very nice stay there in Oct. 2007. Great rate (single for 80 euros), very clean, comfortable room, the largest and nicest bathroom I had during my two weeks in Italy. Thought staying near Termini was very convenient and much quiet than the centro storico. The walk is downhill to get to the Pantheon/Piazza Navonna area, for the return "uphill" part of the trip I just caught one of the many busses whose route is Via Nazionale - including the notorious 40/64 bus, which I took without incident. I think the B&B is an apartment building going condo and the owner's unit is next door, but it has 24 hr. access (after hours just ring the bell and they buzz you in). Nice touches include maps, lots of guide books to borrow (including Rick Steves'), even umbrellas to use for the day if you forget to pack one. Enjoyed the owner's friendly dog, too. The only negative is that while rooms are non-smoking, the owner smokes at the front desk and at times the smell carried. But for a bargain B&B in a good location with a friendly owner that was clean and had some charm, it's a minor complaint. Tom Robertson in Indianapolis, IN USA 11/15/2007 1) Some of the galleries covered by the Roma Pass that Rick didn't mention: the Palazzo Berberini gallery, the Gallery of Modern Art; I tried to visit the Gallery of Late Medieval Art in EUR too, but the hours were short on the day that I went. The first two are worth a visit, probably more than the Pamphilj gallery (the greatest hits are always on loan, it seems; and the self-congratulatory tone of its audio guide is a bit much) 2) Any non-baroque or non-baroquicized church that you can find! Which is always a feat. I came across San Lorenzo Fuori Le Mura by chance, and it was a stunning find. Romanic and medieval, with a rough and neglected feel yet perfectly functional, the church has unbeatable charm in a city full of baroque excess. 3) I had it on my list to visit at least one 'centro sociale', a specific Italian social experiment in cooperation, neglected property takeovers and artistic production all in one. A number of them are outsite of the tourist core, but one -- Rialto -- is pretty central (closest subway stop is Colosseo). However, I could not find the San Ambrogio street on either of my three maps of Rome (don't get me started on maps) so I'm leaving centri sociali for my next trip. Lydia Perovic in Toronto, ON Canada 10/31/2007 The tip about faxing the Vatican to reserve a tour was well worth the time we saved by not standing in the long lines. Cost was 23.5 euros for adults and 18.5 euros for children (ages 9 and 11). Michael Sherwood in Prescott Valley, AZ USA 10/29/2007 It would be nice to add apartments to the selection of hotels. We found a very nice one near Piazza Navona. Mary Passeri in Oakland, CA USA 10/24/2007 Hotel Margaret in Roma on Via A. Salandra. We stayed there in a quad room. The room wasn't fancy or anything but the staff was friendly and Pippo recommended some great ristorante and gelateria. ALl staff were willing to help out with information, calling taxis, etc. It's conviently located about 10 min from Termini and includes breakfast. There is an elevator if you don't want to walk the 5 flights of stairs. Our room was on the main street and was understandably noisy. Oh, and if you speak some Italian, Pippo won't every forget you! Stephanie in Aviano, Italy 10/20/2007 Our favorite: the wonderful walk down Gianicolo Passagietto to the Vatican. This is a lovely walk through the Pines of Rome, with glorious hilltop views of the Roman skyline and an escape from the frantic pace of the City. AND, there is a nice little outdoor cafe for a beer on a hot day. This is the kind of unforgettable experience that can get overlooked in an effort to see the antiquities and museums. Jim & Megan Taylor in Seattle, WA USA 10/09/2007 Rome "New" Accomodation - La Plata B&B at Piazza del Viminale,5 on 4th floor. (Note Not VIA Viminale, but PIAZZA). Elevator. Newly decorated room/bathroom. Breakfast served in room - fresh pastries, etc, quite adequate. Nice, quiet retreat from Rome's busy-ness. Very secure, convenient location, non-smoking room, reasonable price -- 130E in September(high season) for dbl. AC available for 5E more. Walking distance to Via Nazionale - shopping, buses, and to Republicca Metro stop as well as train station. Next to Interior Ministry and Security building (police?). We would definitely stay here again. Note also that the owner speaks Italian, some English and fluent Spanish. I believe there are only about 4 rooms so book ahead. www.laplatabb.com My husband and I would definitely stay here again. I hope Rick Steves checks out this "new" backdoor. Mrs Dave Goodwin in Glen Allen, VA USA 10/02/2007 We recently spent 5 days in Rome. The excavation tour under the Vatican is a must, but you do have to apply before you leave. Another restaurant near the Best Western Springhouse should be listed. It is Picere Molise on the Via Candia. It is about 21/2 blocks from the hotel and wonderful food and service. Everyone seemed to have a Rick Steve's book in their hand, it really was very helpful. The suggestion for using the money belts was very true, didn't worry at all about our passports, credit cards and extra money. Thank you very much!! Patricia Vicenzi in Iron Mountain, Mi USA 09/22/2007 We stayed at Hotel Nerva, and the hotel was fine. However, transportation to FCO was not. We arranged a taxi through Alberto for transport to the airport. He assured us of the 40-Euro flat fee for the two of us. However, the "taxi" that came charged us 50 Euros, stating that this was a limousine, not a taxi. Also, the driver drove recklessly, even for Rome, exceeding 180 km/hr at times. Also, the staff at the hotel kept nagging us to pay cash at checkout, because we had been given such a good rate, even going so far as to show us the tabs for other guests staying at the hotel at the same time! We had planned to pay cash all along, but these assurances did not stop the nagging. Dana Kelly in Tumwater, WA USA 09/16/2007 Guest House Arco dei Tolomei, Via dell’Arco dè Tolomei 27, tel. 06 58 320 819. The staff at this B&B was so, so helpful, nice and pleasant. Catia helped us plan tours and outings, and Lena helped us get checked in with no issues. The breakfast was a wonderful spread, including daily freshly baked cake! Allison Hardin in Atlanta, GA USA 09/13/2007 An amazing church we found just around the corner from the Teatro Di Marcello called St. Maria Campitelli. If you go up Teatro and make a left at the Antico Cafe (onto Montanara) there it is - BEAUTIFUL, and worth a look see! But, I just want to take this opportunity to THANK YOU. Not only are your books helpful, they're wonderfully written. We have travelled to Paris, Amsterdam, London, and now Rome "with" you, and we appreciate all the info and tips. Keep them coming!!! julie pasqual in Jersey City, NJ USA 09/09/2007 Remind families travelling with kids to ask if there are discount entry fees for children. Our kids were 15 and 13 and got reduced rates at both the Catacombs of Priscilla and the Vatican Museum guided tours. JoAnne Sulak in Leesburg, VA USA 08/16/2007 We stayed at Ostia Antica our last night before flying from the Fiumicino Rome airport home. We stayed at Rodrigo de Vivar (www.rodrigodevivar.com) and really had a very intimate, special visit there. The ruins are a very short walk from this Castle and it's a great ending to a great visit in Italy. I wish we had more than one night because this place is on 400 acres and has plenty of interesting things to do and explore. The meal prepared at their "country" place was fabulous and very authentic and personal. The kitchen even gave us a homemade jar of plum jam to take home with us! Amy Scherer in Menlo Park, CA USA 08/13/2007 we went during the settimana della cultura, or week of culture. i hadn't known what week this was before i booked my trip, but I lucked out. we saw the collisuem for free. also, the borghese gallery, accademia, uffizi, bargello, medici chapels just cost the reservation fee, 3 euros. i think i found out about it online and not in rick's books. maybe the dates come out after press time, but it would be helpful information. paige woodman in los altos, ca USA 08/11/2007 I am recommending Mirage Ristorante Pizzeria in Fiumicino, ocean view on Lungomare della Salute. P.Whisenhunt in Carlsbad, CA USA 08/10/2007 The Roma Pass was well worth the money and time it saved waiting in line. We purchased it at the TI near the train station and used it that evening at the Borghese Gallery. The next day we used it at Palatine Hill where there was barely a line and then went over to the Coloseum where we were able to use the line with the groups and after waiting shortly to get through security, we were in. Devin in Olympia, WA USA 08/08/2007 We did the night walk through Rome and it was great. We ended up by the Spanish Steps around 2230 and were going to take the subway back to our hotel. Rick's book said the subway closes at 2330.....they closed at 2100. Found out they started this a few months early. They are putting in a new subway line in addition to the A and B line. We hope this information will help. We did manage to get back to our hotel..with a crash course on the Rome bus system. Timothy R Sullivan in Clovis, Ca USA 08/04/2007 Jewish Ghetto Tour--Micaela Pavoncello Anna in NY, NY USA 07/30/2007 We used your Rome book constantly for our days in Rome and we found it indispensable. We used your tour of the Vatican Museums and were able to focus on the highlights of each section. Your tip for exiting the Sistine Chapel to get back to St. Peter's was right on. We followed the book exactly for our tour of the Borghese Gallery and it got us through in a timely manner and we know we saw what was most important. We also used Micaela Pavoncella's Jewish Ghetto Tour. That was such a learning experience for us. I was so glad I had so thoroughly read the book. It made our time in Rome so much more enjoyable, since we had a plan for tackling this incredible city. Thanks! Pamela Braun in Columbus Junction, IA USA 07/30/2007 (1)Hotel Oceania in Rome was great! the location was excellent-- truly a 10 minute walk (everything is a "ten minute walk" from Termini Train Station to the hotel. Roberto, the reservation asst. gave helpful hints of restaurants and info for getting around. The bus and metro was so easy. (2) we enjoyed the Green Line Tour for 20 euro because it was not super crowded and air conditioned with headphones in all languages. You can get on and off the bus for 25 hrs so if you go one day you can actually use the ticket for the next day to see more sights. Jan Nugent in Pennington, NJ USA 07/28/2007 I tested the Italian and Vatican postal systems--this time the postcard mailed from the Italian post office arrived first (3 days after being mailed). Scam alert? --walking from the Vatican to Trastevere (far from traditional tourist areas), I was approached on the street by a man driving a car, and was offered fashion "samples," and then subsequently asked for gas money. Managed to get a ladies' leather jacket out of it, but I was left 40 euros poorer. The directions I actually found to be quite clear. I would recommend picking up a detailed map of the city center--the English language one sponsored by Time Elevator (and given out by the Hotel Aberdeen) was quite detailed enough. Brian in Cleveland, OH USA 07/26/2007 Very interesting for my family was the tour of the Catacombs of San Sebastian on the Appian Way. Also, we did the Scavi Excavations Tour underneath St. Peters. It was excellent and very interesting. Jim Naylor in Everett, WA USA 07/23/2007 Hotel Versailles, Corso D'Italia 92. Near Piazza Fiume, NE Rome. Depending on season runs 35 to 80 euros a night for Double with bath. Run by the very helpful brothers Georgio and Roberto, Both speak english fairly well. On Line reservationms can be made through Venere.com. Or directly at info@hotel-versailles-roma.com. Take your showers early for hot water. Oddly, its a little "off the map" even though you are very much close to everything and its a short walk to the Castro Pretorio Metro. The local laundry mat was closed in late June 2007. This was the only difficulty.
Francis Saffell in Springfield, OR USA 07/22/2007 1. We used Ezio Montit for a day to drive us to Magliano Sabina. He took it upon himself to help us track down my 96 yr old father's birth records and helped interepret. Couldn't have done it without him. Cudos! 2. Didn't have any problems with pickpockets. The biggest thieves are the cab drivers. Fixed rate from inside the wall, to or from airport is 40 Euro. They all overcharge for it if traveller doesn't know. 3. Best restaurant: Target on Via Torino, one block off via Nazional and one block over from Hotel Aberdeen Mike Pagani in Los Angeles, CA USA 07/18/2007 Rick: The guidebook for Rome needs to emphasize a couple of points. First, don't plan on walking or riding a bike on the Appian Way except on Sundays when it is closed to traffic. With the bumper to bumper traffic, the walls on either side and the absence of sidewalks, walking the Appian Way is not only very unpleasant but taking your life in your hands. (We took a cab out to the catacombs at San Sebastiano and were very glad we weren't trying to 'stroll'.) The guidebook does say it's closed to traffic on Sunday, but doesn't say that trying to walk on any other day is a really bad idea. Second, the guidebook needs to stress the necessity of being with a guided tour to the Vatican Museum in order to avoid the horrendous lines, which were worse than for any other major site in Italy. With our escorted tour, we were in the separate line for tours and went right in. Independent travelers faced five hour waits! The line on a Saturday morning at 7am. was already very long and the museum didn't open until 10am. The book also needs to point out that there is often a line to get into St. Peter's basilica due to the need to go through security. The line on the day we were there was all the way down to the end of the piazza and our guide said that some days it winds several times around the piazza. Our guided tour got to leave the Sistine Chapel by the door for guided tours, enter St. Peter's without going through security (again) and get right in. kath in los angeles, ca USA 07/16/2007 Recommend adding Orvieto and assisi to the day trips. they are both readily accessible from Rome by tour bus or train and a great day trip to take a break fromm the crowds specially during the summer high season. Marsh Mendez in Fremont, CA USA 07/12/2007 Recommend including information on how to visit the Acqueducts located in the south side of Rome. We spent the better part of a morning trying to find the correct entry to them based on the maps and information provided by Parco Regionale Dell'Appia Antica. Once we "cracked the code" we found this to be an easily accessible and wonderful area with nice history, good jogging trails, and some places to relax away from the noise. It is an easy trip via the Subaugusta metro stop. However, we at first tried to enter the park from the Porta Furba metro stop (where the Punto Informativo station is located - only open on Sunday though) and found this confusing (ran into private property-no entry signs) and a little uncertain in terms of safety of the area. Kevin Masters in Syracuse, NY USA 07/06/2007 I was looking for a self service laundry, i founded it near spanish steps, you have to added it at your guidebook, there is also free internet!!! you can find it in via degli Avignonesi 17 Rome. tel.00390642014222 Vanessa in Madrid, Es Espana 07/05/2007 Last night i've been to the Old Bell pub restaurant and it was everything so good, real italian food,good service and most important,good price!!!At the end of our dinner they offer to us a free shot. Wow!!!So i want recommend this place to everyone and it's open until 5a.m.! It's near trevi fountain: Via del Boccaccio 24 Rome . Tel 00390697602650 Vanessa in Madrid, Es Espana 07/05/2007 Excellent companions to Rick's guide to Rome were Armando and Milena of the Hotel Select, via Vittorio Bachelet 6. We were given excellent sight-seeing and transportation advice. In addtion, manager Armando made telephone calls on our behalf to track down baggage sent elsewhere by our airline. He even arranged housing for us in a sold-out Florence, when we decided to visit that city at the last minute. The accommodations were just as top-drawer: Milena oversaw an excellent breakfast in a delightful walled and wooded courtyard each day, as well as the cleaning of the rooms. Ours was quiet, clean and, with the screen door safely open to the courtyard each night, washed with a cool, lemon- and jasmine-scented breeze. You'll want to add this discovery, a source of aid and refuge for our first visit to the Eternal City, to your book. David and Lucinda Over in Pasadena, CA USA 06/23/2007 Yes, I took a cruise and wish that Rick had directions from the port to the train station. It would have been very helpful for those of us who eschew the conventional cruise tours. Other than that, I just want to say thank you. The guide books were a life saver. On the cruise, we went to Venice, FLorence,Dubrovnik, Messina,Barecelona and I don't remember the rest. While I enjoy cruising, I wanted to "do it on my own" and the books were a god send. My companion is Italian, and spoke fluent Italian, but knew nothing about the sites. Thanks a bunch for the assist in enjoying the vacation. Janice Palmer in Phoenix, AZ USA 06/20/2007 Jewish Roma Walking Tours -- Jewish Roma Walking Tours [jewishroma@gmail.com] David in Atlanta, GA USA 06/14/2007 The little gift shop run by the nuns on the roof top of St. Peters. It was a real find. We noticed it on our way up climbing the dome for a late-day photo op. We visited on the way down, picked up some jewelry pieces that someone in our group made into personalized rosaries for our girls. Very special. However, if you're going up late for the sunset photos, stop in on your way up - not down. Those ladies close on time, before you have to leave the dome, and several from our group were not let inside the shop. Lewis Family in Federal Way, WA USA 05/25/2007 Gelateria Millenium, right next to the Pantheon. The service was unbeatable. We got tastes of as many flavours as we wanted, the selection was impressive, and prices were cheap. Plus the view is great! Megan Stoner in Jackson, MS USA 05/25/2007 I had a chance to take three tours of the Jewish Ghetto. I learn more when I have the chance to compare. Tours included Michaela Pavoncello, a Viator tour of the Ghetto and Trastevere, and a CD prerecorded tour "Walk and Talk Rome." By far, the best tour, and one of the highlights of my trip was the tour provided by Michaela Pavoncello. The basic facts were similar in all three tours. But, Ms. Pavoncello embodies the spirit and history of the Jewish community. She doesn't just tell the story of the ghetto, she tells her family history going back to the first Jews in Rome, back over 2000 years. She places the period of the ghetto in perspective to the Jews full involvement in the life of Rome. Her knowledge, spirit, and passion is unforgettable. The other tours provide an understanding but can't compare to Ms. Pavoncello. There is one concern I should mention: cost. The viator tour is 25 Euro. The CDs cost $16 on Amazon. But Ms Pavoncello lists some dramtically high fees for her tours. Initially, she asked me to pay 100 Euros to join a tour with three other people. Through a series of E-mails, I let her know that her price was unafforable for me. She may think all us Americans are rich. But, in my case, she agreed to reduce the price to a level that fit my budget. She says that she will negotiate prices for groups of people, but not for private tours. I'm guessing she will reach agreement with anyone who requests a reasonable price. So, don't be disuaded by the initial suggested price. The negotiations are well worth the effort. Stuart NY USA 05/19/2007 Wi-fi in Borghese park. Since our hotel did not provide internet, we could have come here to use the public internet. Hieronymous Bosch in Correr Museum in Venice in room 36 2000 year old Barbie dolls in the basement of the National Museum James Tierney in kirkland , WA USA 05/19/2007 Jewish Synagogue and ghetto tour with Micaela Pavoncello. She is thoroughly charming. Her knowledge and love of the area were unsurpassable. We could not have done this tour on our own. It is well worth the cost. Everyone in the ghetto knows her and obviously loves her.
Judy Baker in Jenkintown, PA USA 05/09/2007 Tip: Please clarify where you can find the YELLOW Validation box at Termini Metro! We had fun searching however, it took us a long time to find the box since there is yellow trim where you purchase your ticket. J P Pardini in Philadelphia, PA USA 05/04/2007 The 110 hop on hop off bus has a 2 day ticket for 20 euros. Even though we walked our legs off thhroughout Rome, it was handy to hop on the bus and use it like a taxi to start the day or when we got tired. Mark E. Lamb in Melbourne, Fl USA 04/26/2007 Our favorite restaurant of all during our 10 days in Italy was the Taverna Pretoriana at Via Palestrano, 46-48 00185 Roma. Tel 06 4450273. The food was delicous, plentiful and inexpensive. The service was friendly and attentive. There were many locals eating there along with the tourists. Everyone was treated well. Terese in Eden Prairie, MN USA 04/08/2007 I had been searching for the Italian ice cream I had remembered as a child in Scotland. As I recall, all of the ice cream stores seemed to be run by Italians. We emigrated to the US in 1957, but the last time I rememeber "the right taste" was 43 years ago on a return vacation, and despite having been back to Britain numerous times since, and sampled a lot(!) of ice cream, nothing was "the right taste". We have just returned from two weeks in Italy (Venezia, Firenze , & Roma)and armed with all three of your guidebooks, I was on a quest for "the taste". I found it!! In Rome, you recommended Cremeria Monteforte by the Pantheon for gelato, and in one of the bins marked "Fior de latte" I found it. I knew it was white, but I had only ever seen Lemon in all the displays I looked at in any other shops. The Cream was always yellow & tasted OK, but it wasn't "it". When I saw the white "fior de latte", I immediately ordered a cone and knew with one taste, this was "it". I told my story to the lovely lady at the register, said "mille grazie" & wandered off in great satisfaction. Straight old milk & sugar, that was it. Now I have a name. Thanks very much. George Easton in Westlake, OH USA 04/04/2007 Fodors had recommended Trattoria Dai Tre Amici al Pantheon on Via Della Rotonda - tried it and would add it to your list - Rainy night in Feb. we were only customers - Owner and son wonderful! Good food - homey decor - good price, free limoncello. Gary Carson in Aransas Pass, tx USA 03/24/2007 I foiled a pickpocket attempt on the #64 bus thanks to the warning in the guide. May I recommend you tell people that it is possible to order a half portion of pasta (but not for half price)? Stirling Haig in Chapel Hill, NC USA 02/20/2007 Vatican tour with Brenda Bohen from Jewishroma.com. We have visited the Vatican twice before - once with a guide and once using the "audio" tour. The tour witn Brenda was marvelous for many reasons, including; Seeing the Vatican from a Jewish perspective. Access to areas not usually available to the public. Having a charming, enthusiastic, knowledgeable guide who is on fist name (and in some cases kissing) terms with the Vatican staff. David Borkin England 02/17/2007 We ate at two fabulous restaurants: Antica Taverna Via Monte Giordano, 12 Tel 06 688 010 53 Le Lanterne Via dela Pilotta, 21a Tel 06 699 244 58 Dan & Aggie Mannix in Waterloo, Belgium (formerly of Pennington, NJ) 02/17/2007 Jewish Rome tour with Micaela Pavoncello (www.jewishroma.com) Feb 2007. An excellent tour! Tremendous insight into the community and larger context. Micaela is a dynamic, fast-paced guide---meaning she hasn't been to professional guide school for boring recitation training. She is fluent in multiple languages, including English and a variant of Italkian. For anybody who does crossword puzzles in pen and likes to play "stump-the-guide", you will meet your match and likely lose. David Greenberg in Fogelsville, PA USA 02/13/2007 Rick, just back from Rome where a "Roman soldier" at the Coliseum saw your Guidebook in my hand, and after a few unkind words for you, he turned immediately to the page and quoted you verbatim about the "photo soldiers" being a rip off. "Alberto" was a hoot and I promised him I would write to you in his (and his legions') defense! He even gave us a free photo pose. His "Rick response" was our day's highlight. Many laughs!! Go easy on the centurions! Cindy in Beavercreek, OH USA 02/01/2007 Tip - don't talk to well dressed men in cars who ask for directions - ours gave a line of looking for the French Embassy, asked for 15 euros to buy some gas and ended up grabbing 75. Penny Russell in Rochester, NY USA 01/31/2007 Micaela Pavoncello's guide of the Jewish Ghetto was by far my best experience in Rome this January! She's delightful and knowledgeable. I only wish I had more time there to book other tours with her too. Rochelle Katz in New York, NY USA 01/23/2007 Felice restaurant in Testaccio. Via Mastro Giorgio 29, 06 574 6800. One of the oldest establishments in Testaccio with most of the lunch tables seemingly on "perpetual reserve;" the staff usually confirms orders rather than taking them ("the usual?"). Even first timers get unasked for suggestions--and I'd advise taking them. Wonderful food drawing on the fresh items from the best market in the city. James in Biddle, OH USA 01/12/2007 |