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Rick Steves' Portugal

Updates since the sixth edition:

Lisbon

The sidebar on the Carnation Revolution gives incorrect dates for President António Salazar's rule. Salazar ruled Portugal from 1926 until 1968, when he was debilitated by a stroke (he died in 1970). Salazar's authoritarian regime, the Estado Novo, continued in power under Marcelo Caetano until 1974.

Buses to Madrid: The AVANZA Bus Company runs two buses a day in each direction (8–9 hours, €47.50 each way, daytime or overnight; check shedules and buy tickets at the MOVELIA search engine for bus transport in Spain).

Sintra

Photos are allowed at the National Palace.

Douro Valley

The historic steam train that chugga-chuggs between the valley's small towns starts running in late July (rather than late May; still just on Saturdays).

Updates for those still traveling with the fifth edition:

Lisbon

Lavandaria da Baixa has closed. Instead try 5àSec Lavandaria (€7.50/kilo, same-day wash-and-dry service, Mon–Fri 8:00–20:00, Sat–Sun 10:00–20:00, near the Baixa-Chiado Metro stop at Rua do Crucifixo 99, tel. 504-622-030).

The name of our recommended Lisbon travel agency has changed, from Star Turismo to Geo Star.

Lisbon's 7 Colinas pass is being replaced by an electronic smartcard called Viva Viagem. The one-day version covers all of Lisbon's public transit options: Metro, funiculars, trolleys, and buses (€4.25 includes one-time €0.50 card fee, renew card for €3.75/day; sold at all Metro stations, Carris booth on Praça da Figueira, at left window of bullfight-ticket kiosk at Praça dos Restauradores, and behind Elevador de Santa Justa, www.carris.pt or www.metrolisboa.pt).

São Roque Church has new hours: Fri–Wed 9:00–18:00 and Thu 9:00–14:00.

The Museum and School of Portuguese Decorative Arts is now closed Tuesdays (open Wed–Mon 10:00–17:00, Largo das Portas do Sol 2, tel. 218-814-640).

There's no longer a Sunday market at Parque das Nações.

To reach the Gulbenkian Museum, take the Metro from Restauradores to the São Sebastião stop, exit the station following signs to Avenida de Aguiar, take a few steps up to the street, and turn right. The Gulbenkian Exhibit Hall will be in front of you (this not the main museum). Turn left and continue walking downhill 150 yards. Just before the roundabout (across from the funky, pink Spanish embassy on the left), you'll see a small sign pointing right to the fundação — the museum entrance is about 10 yards away. (It's also possible to use the Praça de Espanha Metro stop, which is the same distance from the museum, but the São Sebastião stop will save you from having to cross several busy streets).

Hotel Avenida Palace has a new website and email address: www.hotelavenidapalace.pt, reservas@hotelavenidapalace.pt.

Albergaria Residencial Insulana's current rates are Sb-€57, Db-€67.

Cavejari Nacala sandwich shop has closed.

Sintra

Local guide Christina Quental has new prices: Mon–Fri €100/half-day, €165/day; Sat–Sun €140/half-day, €230/day (mobile 919-922-480, anacristinaquental@hotmail.com).

A new €14 combo-ticket covers the Pena Palace, Pena Palace gardens, and Moorish Castle. It's €12 to visit just the Pena Palace.

Villa Marques hotel has closed.

The Algarve

Salema

Salema no longer has an ATM. Not all Salema restaurants accept credit cards, and most accommodations require cash. The closest ATMs are at the Parque da Floresta golf resort (about two miles inland — the ATM is on the wall outside the reception building), or at the Intermarche supermarket in Budens (the town just before Salema when coming from Lagos). A round-trip taxi ride from town to either ATM is about €8).

Sebastián no longer offers scenic cruises from Salema. Instead consider a boat trip with Mar Ilimitado in Cape Sagres.

To reach the Romantik Villa B&B on foot, turn right just after the Salema Beach Club sign (not the supermarket sign).

Pensión Maré is now run by friendly Bettina, who speaks English.

Alisuper market has closed.

Cape Sagres

Pousda do Infante has new telephone and fax numbers: tel. 282-624-212, fax 282-624-425.

Lagos

English-speaking Nuno (not "Nunu") at Lagorent Rent-a-Car has a new email address: info@lagorent.com.

Tavira

The Residencial Marés hotel now has a website.

Évora

The Museum of Évora has reopened after a long renovation (€4, Wed–Sun 10:00–18:00, Tue 14:30–18:00, closed Mon, English info sheets, Largo Conde de Vila Flor, tel. 266-702-604).

Train service to and from Évora is suspended until sometime in early 2012 because of construction. Check with the TI for updates, or visit www.cp.pt.

Cybercenter Internet café is located at Rua Serpa Pinto 36 (not Rua dos Mercadores 42).

The shuttle bus that runs through town is the green-and-white Trevo (not the blue line Linha Azul).

Nazaré

The Sítio Museum only costs €1 and has new hours: Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00, closed Mon.

Hotel Maré has a new email address: reservas@hotelmare.pt.

The Ribamar Hotel has a new website: www.ribamar.pai.pt.

Sergio's Quartos has closed.

Casa Oficina has closed.

Café O Xalavar has closed.

Óbidos

Estalagem do Convento no longer offers a public restaurant.

Coimbra

Construction on Coimbra's new light rail system is running behind schedule, and is now expected be completed in 2012.

The Abreu travel agency has closed. For bus tickets, try InterVisa travel agency (Mon–Fri 9:00–12:30 & 14:30–18:30, closed Sat–Sun; Avenida Fernão da Magalhães 11, leaving Station A, walk 100 yards to your left, then take the first left; tel. 239-823-873).

The Elevator Mercado no longer runs on Sundays (new hours: Mon–Fri 7:00–19:00, Sat 8:00-13:00).

The Machado de Castro Museum is expected to fully reopen after renovations in 2012. Until then, its Roman excavations are still open for visitors.

Capitão Dureza has a new phone number: tel. 918-315-337.

Buses to the Conímbriga Roman Ruins have new departure times: Mon–Fri at 9:00, 9:30, 12:30, and 15:30; Sat–Sun at 9:30, 12:30, and 15:00. (Return times: Mon–Fri at 12:55, 16:25, and 17:55; Sat–Sun 13:25 and 18:25.)

Residencial Vitória has a new website and email address: www.residencialvitoria.net, rrvitoria@gmail.com.

The folks at Residência Lusa Atenas don't speak English.

Café Santa Cruz is open Sundays in July and August.

Porto

The Metro no longer accepts individual tickets: You must buy an preloaded Andante Card which you then swipe at the entrance. The Andante Card also works on trams, buses, the funicular, and some trains. Regular Andante Cards are reloadable, while the €5 one-day AndanteTour Card (a good option for most travelers) is not.

The tram no longer runs all the way to Foz, instead stopping at the Jardim do Passeio Alegre. You can either walk 10 minutes from the park to the Foz district, or take bus #500 (you can bypass the tram by riding bus #500 from the Ribeira directly to Foz).

Grand Hotel de Paris Residencial has a new website and email address: www.hotelparis.pt, dir@hotelparis.pt.

Restaurante Batalha has closed.

Douro Valley

Peso da Régua

The TI has moved. It is now next door to the train station on Largo da Estacão.

Pinhão

The Praia Bar no longer offers rabelo boat tours on the Douro River.

Hotel Douro has a new website and email address: www.hotel-douro.com, geral@hotel-douro.com.

Appendix

The Driving in Portugal map on page 305 shows an incorrect distance and time between Porto and Santiago; the correct distance is about 145 miles and 3.5 hours.