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Rick Steves' Switzerland

Updates since the fourth edition:

General

Switzerland has dropped passport controls for European flights originating in the 25 countries that have signed the Schengen Agreement. Since it is a landlocked nation, Switzerland has now dropped border controls on road crossings with its neighbors. Travelers flying into Switzerland from non-Schengen destinations will still have to go through customs.

Smoking is being gradually phased out in Switzerland's eateries, but the laws vary by city and canton, not by type of restaurant (a fine restaurant in über-traditional Appenzell is more likely to allow smoking than a bar in modern Zürich).

As of Dec. 13, 2009, Geneva/Zürich–Rome night trains are no more (this leaves no Switzerland–Italy night train). Meanwhile, daytime trains on that route will pick up a little more speed. Fast trains to Italy will no longer be labled "Cisalpino" but simply as EuroCity trains.

Zürich

The Kunsthaus Zürich is not covered by the Swiss Pass (but it is covered by the ZürichCARD).

The TI's guided walks run Nov–March Wed and Sat–Sun only at 11:00.

The Alexander Guest House is the annex of the Alexander Hotel, not the Hotel Krone, so to make reservations for the Alexander Guest House, contact the Alexander Hotel at info@hotel-alexander.ch. Breakfast for both Alexander properties is served at the Alexander Hotel.

The riverboat buses run only April–October.

The Hotel Krone's correct website is www.hotel-krone-limmatquai.ch, and the full name of the hotel is the Hotel Krone Limmatquai. They are not affiliated with the Alexander Guest House, and do not provide breakfast or discounts to Alexander guests.

Luzern

The TI sells the new LucerneCard, which includes unlimited travel on local trains and buses (but not boats), as well as half off the walking tour and the entry fees to most local museums (19 SF/24 hrs, 27 SF/48 hrs, 33 SF/72 hrs). If you don't have a Swiss Pass, and you're going to the expensive Swiss Museum of Transport and at least one other museum, a one-day LucerneCard pays for itself. Otherwise, the card makes less sense, unless you're a fairly gung-ho sightseer and don't have a Swiss Pass (especially since the free-from-hotels Visitors Card does give some museum discounts).

The Rosengart Collection now incorporates the works that were in the former Picasso Museum.

The Bourbaki Panorama has new hours: Nov–March Tue–Sun 10:00–17:00, Mon 13:00–17:00; April–Oct Tue–Sun 9:00–18:00, Mon 13:00–18:00.

The historic summit hotel, Hotel Pilatus-Kulm, is closed until August 2010 for renovation. Prices will be quite a bit higher when it reopens (Sb-190 SF, Db-240 SF).

Bern

Since 1857, Bern had been housing its bears in big, barren, concrete pits (Bärengraben). But thanks to the terrorist activity of the B.L.M. (Bear Liberation Movement), a reluctant city government was forced to replace the pits with posher digs. In the spring of 2009, the last of the pit bears died, and in October 2009 three-year-old brown bears Finn (a male from Finland) and Björk (a female from Denmark) moved to the new Bear Park (BärenPark). Finn and Björk enjoy much better conditions than their forebears, including a fishing channel next to the river — though they can still access the larger pit, which is now a historic monument (free, circuit around park open daily 24 hours, shop open daily 8:30–16:30, bus #12, tel. 031-357-1525). For info on guided tours by bear keepers, call 031-357-15-25.

A new walking tour, focusing on the bear as a heraldic symbol for the city, leads you from the train station to the Bear Park (departs at 13:30, check website for tour dates, 1.5 hrs, 20 SF).

At the parliament, tours have resumed after a renovation of the building: When parliament is in session, the galleries are open to the public, so you can watch the action (free, must leave ID at entrance, no photos). When parliament is not in session, you can take a guided hour-long tour of the building in English (free; tours run hourly Mon–Sat at 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 14:00, 15:00, and 16:00, also Thu at 17:00, 18:00, and 19:00; sign up the day before by calling 031-322-8522, besucherdienst@pd.admin.ch).

Fans of the genius will want to visit the new Einstein Museum, which began as a temporary exhibit and now occupies the second floor of Bern's Historical Museum. Photos and exhibits depict Einstein's accomplishments and complicated personal life, within the context of the current events of his time (18 SF, covered by Swiss Pass, Tue–Sun 10:00–17:00, closed Mon, audioguide-5 SF, across bridge from Parliament at Helvetiaplatz 5 — take tram #3 or #5, tel. 031-350-7711).

The cathedral has new hours: Nov–March Mon–Fri 10:00–12:00 & 14:00–16:00, Sat until 17:00, Sun 11:30–16:00; April–Oct Mon–Sat 10:00–17:00, Sun 11:30–17:00; last entry 30 min before closing, audioguide-5 SF, photos allowed, tel. 031-312-0462). Climb the spiral staircase 210 feet above town for the view and the exercise (4 SF, 344 steps, last entry 30 min before closing).

The Hotel Goldener Schlüssel has totally renovated. It's the oldest inn in downtown Bern, but it's been completely renovated. What used to be an old, basic hotel now has 35 small, Euro-style staterooms with modern sliding-glass-door bathroom pods. The back rooms are quieter — and more expensive — as the front rooms facing Rathausgasse get café and disco noise from across the street (Sb-138–160 SF, Db-178–220 SF, Db suite-290–360 SF, Tb-235–275 SF, Qb-255–295 SF, extra bed-50 SF, elevator, free Internet terminal in lobby, pay Wi-Fi in rooms, Rathausgasse 72, tel. 031-311-0216, fax 031-311-5688, www.goldener-schluessel.ch, info@goldener-schluessel.ch).

Murten

Our advice on the Three-Lake Cruise has changed slightly:

Half-Day Three Lakes Cruise: Consider sailing on all three of the region's lakes (connected via canals) and stopping at several small medieval villages along the way. Two boat companies make the trip once a day (3.25–4.25 hours each way, 51 SF for one-way ticket, 58-SF "day card" covers round-trip). One boat leaves from Murten at 10:00, arrives in the town of Biel at 14:10, then turns around immediately and heads back along the same route, leaving Biel at 14:20 and arriving in Murten at 18:20 (runs Tue–Sun late May–late Sept, tel. 032-729-9600, www.navig.ch). A different boat leaves Biel at 9:45 and arrives in Murten at 13:00. It returns from Murten at 14:30, giving you an hour or so in town, and docks in Biel at 18:20 (runs daily April–late Oct, tel. 032-329-8811, www.bielersee.ch/de). Ask at the TI if they (or the post office) have coupons — you may find ample boat-trip discounts — then buy tickets down at the waterfront. You can condense this full-day trip by taking the boat one way and the train the other (2/hr, 1–1.25 hrs, 1–2 changes).

Avenches

Elisabeth Clement Arnold no longer rents a room in her house.

Berner Oberland

The correct website in the Helpful Hints section for skiing info is www.jungfrauwinter.ch.

Interlaken

The Interlaken TI has a new web address: www.interlaken.ch.

The Interlaken TI no longer organizes free walks on Mon in summer.

Ticket windows at Interlaken's West station are now open only until 19:00.

Bike rental shops at both Interlaken train stations close Sat–Sun (www.rentabike.ch).

Vertical Sport has a new phone number: 033-823-5383.

Katy's Lodge B&B no longer has a fax number.

Happy Inn Lodge has a new web address: www.brasserie17.ch.

Lauterbrunnen

The TI has moved down the street to Stutzli 460 (to the left as you exit the station, near the Co-op grocery). The TI is open year-round Mon–Fri 9:00–12:00 & 13:00–18:00; June–Sept Sat 9:00–11:00 & 15:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–12:00 & 17:00–19:00; Oct–March closed on weekends except open Sat mid-Dec–March.

Current prices for Hotel Staubbach are as follows: S-80 SF, D-100 SF, Db-130 SF, figure 50 SF/person in family rooms sleeping up to 6, 20 SF extra for balcony rooms with valley view, slightly cheaper in winter.

The correct email for Hotel Silberhorn is info@silberhorn.com.

Chalet im Rohr no longer closes near Easter and has new email and web addresses: www.chaletimrohr.ch, bookings@chaletimrohr.ch.

Gimmelwald

You must pay in cash to park at the Schilthornbahn cable-car station near Stechelberg.

The sole public phone in Gimmelwald now accepts coins as well as pre-paid calling cards.

To make a reservation at Hotel Mittaghorn, please book by phone or email after April 1 (don't try to contact the hotel while it's closed, from Nov to March). It's also necessary to reconfirm by phone the day before you arrive (tel. 033-855-1658, mittaghorn@gmail.com).

Pension Gimmelwald is an old farmhouse converted into a family-style inn (D-100 SF in summer, less in winter; restaurant, 2 min walk from cable-car station, tel. 033-855-1730, www.pensiongimmelwald.com, Englishman David).

The Hotel zum Berggeist has closed (and re-opened as Pension Gimmelwald, above).

The Mountain Hostel has a new email address: info@mountainhostel.com.

The barn door's been closed at Esther's, so Schlaf im Stroh ("Sleep in the Straw") is no longer offered. But you can still stay in the seven clean, comfortable rooms in Esther's Guesthouse at these updated prices: S-45–70 SF, big D-110–120 SF, Db-110–120 SF, big T-130–180 SF, Q-170–200 SF, family room for up to 5 people-140–230 SF. Use of Wi-Fi is free; the Internet terminal costs money after the first 15 minutes. Esther's Shop is now open daily 8:00–12:00 & 17:15–19:00, selling home-made and farm-raised products such as milk, bread, and meats, along with basic foodstuffs and souvenirs. This shop will, however, close in April 2010. For more info, see www.esthersguesthouse.ch.

The Chalet Niedermatte has closed, but its owner, Liesi, has opened Liesi's Heart Place, where she rents a double room in her home with a great view and terrace (Db-80 SF, Tb-110 SF with 2-night stay, laundry service possible, nice garden with grill available for guests to use, reserve by email and reconfirm 2–3 days before arrival, located near Chalet Huusmätteli, tel. 033-855-1662, www.liesisheartplace.ch). Readers who've visited Gimmelwald before may know Liesi, and husband Hermann, as the (former) long-time proprietors of Pension Gimmelwald.

Hotel Mittaghorn, the treasure of Gimmelwald, also has triple rooms (129 SF, 6 SF more for one-night stay).

Klettersteig Via Ferrata (mountain climbing via an iron cable), allows visitors to climb down from Mürren to Gimmelwald with a licensed guide. Reservations are smart (open mid-June–Oct, 3-hour course, 95 SF, tel. 033-821-6100, fax 033-821-6101, www.klettersteig-muerren.ch, info@be-je.ch).

Mürren

The cable-car station inside the old gondola now offers pay Internet access.

Massage therapist Sabina Kulicka has new contact phone numbers: at Hotel Alpenruh tel. 033-856-8800, Sabina's tel. 033-855-4538.

Chalet Fontana has done away with their land line, so use their mobile number when calling: mobile 078-642-3485. They also have new web and email addresses: www.chaletfontana.ch, chaletfontana@muerren.ch.

Bar Bistro is now closed on Sun.

Wengen

The Wengen TI has a new website: www.mywengen.ch.

The Hotel Berghaus has new web and email addresses: www.berghaus-wengen.ch, info@berghaus-wengen.ch.

The Familienhotel Edelweiss has new owners.

Zermatt

Trains from the parking lot at Täsch now run more frequently at night (every 20 minutes 6:00–22:30, then hourly Mon–Wed until 1:00 in the morning; Thu–Sun hourly 23:00–6:00).

Hotel Tannenhof has a new URL and email address: www.rhone.ch/tannenhof, hotel-tannenhof@rhone.ch.

Appenzell

In Appenzell, the cows come down from the hills, dressed in their finery, sometime between mid-August to the end of September (unfortunately, the cows don't give advance notice on which days they'll descend). Once the cows have come home, several cattle shows take place in the region (on predictable dates). The Appenzell cattle show, where farmers wear traditional costumes and compete with their cattle for prizes, usually takes place the first Tuesday in October. In Urnäsch, you can see a cattle drive in late September. For more info, see www.appenzell.ch.

The Museum of Appenzell Customs (Appenzeller Brauchtumsmuseum) is now open in the winter; no need to call ahead. Its new hours are April–Oct daily 13:30–17:00, Nov-March Mon–Sat 9:00–11:30, closed Sun.

Lugano

The Burger King no longer offers free Internet access.

Grand Café al Porto is now closed Sun.

The Restaurant Miralago Gandria is now open daily (tel. 091-971-4361).

Hotel Pestalozzi has a new website: www.pestalozzi-lugano.ch.

La Tinera restaurant is now closed Mon.

Two shuttle bus companies link Lugano to Malpensa Airport and Linate Airport near Milan, Italy: Star Bus (tel. 091-994-8878), and Giosy Tours (tel. 091-858-2323).

The Upper Engadine

Pontresina

The correct TI website is: www.pontresina.ch.

Ulla Waehrer, who gives guided tours in Pontresina, has a new email address: ulla.waehrer@bluewin.ch.

To reach the town center by bus from the train station, take bus #2 (not #1) to Pontresina Post or Pontresina Rondo.

Hotel Saratz no longer offers Internet terminals to non-guests.

The Alpine Museum is closed Sun, mid-April–May, and Nov–late Dec.

Flying Cycles bike rental is closed Sun.

Chesa Mulin Hotel Garni no longer offers free Internet access.

Samedan

Hotel de la Posta has new email: ursula.baumann2@bluewin.ch and no longer has a website.

St. Moritz

We now recommend Ender Sport ski rental (just uphill from TI and recommended hotels at Via Maistra 26, tel. 081-833-3536).

Boom Sport ski rental is closed Sun (Via Tegiatscha 5, tel. 081-832-2222).

Youth Hostel Stille has new phone and fax numbers: tel. 081-836-6111, fax 081-836-6112.

Scenic Rail Jouneys

The Bernina Express, operated by Rhaetian Railway, has a new phone number: 081-288-4340.

Chur

The phone number for Hotel Restaurant Rebleuten has changed to 081-255-1144.

Hotel Franziskaner has a new URL and email address: www.hotelfranziskaner.ch, info@hotelfranziskaner.ch.