Portugal and Spain: Accommodations Listings
Included in this section:
42. Lisbon's Gold Still Shines
43. Salema, on Portugal's Sunny South Coast
44. Andalucía's Arcos de la Frontera and the Route of the White Villages
45. Morocco: Plunge Deep
42. Lisbon's Gold Still Shines
Sleeping in Lisbon
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 351)
Central as can be, the Baixa district bustles with lots of shops, traffic, people, street musicians, pedestrian areas, and urban intensity.
Hotel Lisboa Tejo (leezh-BO-ah TAY-zhoo) is an oasis of 58 comfy, ocean-blue rooms with hardwood floors (Sb-€105, Db-€120, includes crowded buffet breakfast, air-con, elevator, Internet access, laundry service ; from southeast corner of Praça da Figueira, walk 1 block down Rua dos Condes de Monsanto and turn left, Condes de Monsanto 2; tel. 218-866-182, fax 218-865-163, www.evidenciahoteis.com, hotellisboatejo@evidenciagrupo.com).
VIP Executive Suites Eden rents 134 slick and contemporary compact apartments (with small kitchens). It has a rooftop swimming pool and terrace with commanding city, castle, and river views. The building used to be a 1930s cinema, hence the Art Deco architecture and the slightly pie-shaped rooms. Perfectly located at the Rossio end of Avenida da Liberdade, this is a clean, quiet pool of modernity amid the ramshackle charm of Lisbon. It's also an intriguing option for groups or families of four (Db studio-€121, two-bedroom apartment with bed-and-sofa combo that can sleep four people-€176, breakfast-€9, includes taxes, air-con, elevator, Praça dos Restaura dores 24, tel. 213-216-600, fax 213-216-666, www.viphotels.com, res.eden@viphotels.com).
Best Budget Options in Lisbon
Pensão Gerês rents 20 bright, basic, cozy rooms with older plumbing but without the dingy smokiness that pervades Lisbon's cheaper hotels. Double-paned windows keep out most of the street noise (S-€45–50, Sb-€55–60, Db-€65–75, Tb-€85–100, 10 percent discount Nov-March with cash and current edition of Rick Steves' Portugal book, no breakfast, Internet access, uphill a block off northeast corner of Rossio, Calçada do Garcia 6, tel. 218-810-497, fax 218-882-006, www.pensaogeres.com). The Nogueira family speaks some English.
Residencial Florescente rents 68 rooms on the "eating lane," a thriving pedestrian street a block off Praça dos Restauradores. It's an Old World slumber mill with narrow halls and clean rooms (Sb-€40—45, Db-€50—55, Db twin-€60—70, Tb-€70—80, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Rua Portas de Santo Antão 99, tel. 213-426-609, fax 213-427-733, www.residencialflorescente.com).
Albergaria Residencial Insulana, on a pedestrian street, has 32 quiet, airy rooms and a professional, friendly staff (big Sb-€52 , Db-€ 62, extra bed-€15, air-con, elevator, Rua da Assunção 52, tel. 213-423-131, fax 213-428-924, www.insulana.net, info@insulana.net, Fernando).
Pensão Praça da Figueira is justifiably in many guidebooks given its central location and affordable prices. Clean, basic rooms share kitchens on every floor, and a little extra street noise is the only trade-off (S-€28-35, Sb-€38-45, D-€40-45, Db-€48-55, 2 flights up with no elevator, entrance is on Travessa Nova de São Domingos 9 behind Praça da Figueira, tel. 213-426-757, fax 213-424-323, www.pensaopracadafigueira.com, pensaofigueira@clix.pt).
43. Salema, On Portugal's Sunny South Coast
Sleeping in Salema
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 351)
Salema is crowded July through mid-September (and August is horribly packed). Prices jump up in July and August, and the place is partially closed down in winter.
For maximum comfort, there's no need to look beyond Pensión Mare. There's a basic and utilitarian high-rise hotel in the center of town. But for economy and experience, stay in a quarto (room), most of which are along the main road that parallels the waterfront. Fisherfolk happily rent out rooms in their homes, most of which have separate private entrances.
Quartos don't serve breakfast, and breakfast at hotels isn't served until 8:30 a.m. (just after the bread guy arrives at Salema). Early birds can enjoy coffee and pastries from 7:30 a.m. on at Solmar Café next to Tutti Service, opposite Hotel Residencial Salema.
Pensión Maré, a blue-and-white building looking over the village above the main road into town, is the best hotel value in Salema. Two easygoing Danes, Jorn and Sigrun, run the place, offering six comfortable rooms (Sb-€38–53, Db-€50–70, Tb-€65–85, includes wonderful breakfast) and three fully equipped apartments (Db-€50–80, extra bed-€10, no breakfast) in a tidy paradise (10 percent discount with current edition of Rick Steves' Portugal book and cash if arranged discreetly and in advance, free Internet access, Praia de Salema, tel. 282-695-165, fax 282-695-846, excellent website www.the-mare.com has good Salema information). Jorn will hold a room with a phone call and a credit-card number
Hotel Residencial Salema, the oversized hotel towering crudely above everything else in town, is a good value if you want a basic, comfortable room handy to the beach. Recently renovated, its 32 red-tiled rooms all have air-conditioning, balconies, and partial views (Sb-€81, Db-€91 mid-July–mid-Sept; Sb-€65, Db-€70 June-mid July and late Sept; Sb-€53, Db-€58 March–May and Oct–Nov; 10 percent discount through 2008 with current edition of Rick Steves' Portugal book, includes breakfast, elevator, rents cars and mopeds, closed Dec–Feb, tel. 282-695-328, fax 282-695-329, www.hotelsalema.com, hotel.salema@clix.pt).
Best Budget Options in Salema
Quartos abound along the residential street (running left from the village center as you face the beach). Ask one of the locals at the waterfront, or check at the Boia Bar or Salema Market. Prices vary with the season, plumbing, and view, but if you're only staying one night, you're bad news. Doubles cost about €25–45 (forget breakfast and credit cards). Many places offer beachfront views — it's worth paying extra for rooms com vista (with a view). Some apartments are bright and sprawling, while some rooms are dark and musty. Quarto landladies generally speak only a little English, but they're used to dealing with visitors. Many will clean your laundry for about €4 or so. If you're settling in for a while or are on a tight budget, park your bags and travel partner at a beachside bar and survey several places. Except for August weekends, there are always rooms available for those dropping in. Especially outside of July and August, prices can be soft.
Maria Helena and Jorge Ribeiro, a helpful young couple, rent two small, simple doubles (S or D-€35 all year, one has a tiny view) and a charming treehouse-type suite with a kitchen, a view terrace, and a view toilet for Db-€40–50 (Rua dos Pescadores 83, tel. 282-695-289, mobile 965-825-356).
The Acacio family rents a humble ground-floor double (D-€25–30) and a fine upstairs apartment with kitchenette, balcony over the beach, and a great ocean view for up to five people (Db-€45, Tb-€50, Qb-€70, on "quartos street" at #91, tel. 282-695-473). Silvina doesn't speak English and she pouts if you're staying only one night.
Casa Duarte has three pleasant rooms (all with views), a communal kitchenette, and two terraces (D-€35–45, €5 less for two or more nights, tel. 282-695-206 or their English-speaking daughter, Cristina, at tel. 282-695-307; or contact son Romeu, who owns the Salema Market). From "quartos street," turn right at Clube Recreativo, then left on the paved path. Duarte's is #7, the first building on the right.
Campers who don't underestimate the high tides sleep free and easy on the beach (public showers available in the town center) or at a well-run campground with bungalows a half-mile inland, back toward the main road.
44. Andalucía's Arcos de la Frontera and the Route of the White Villages
Sleeping in Arcos, Spain
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 34)
Hotel El Convento, deep in the old town just beyond the parador, is the best value in town. Run by a hardworking family and their wonderful staff, this cozy hotel offers 13 fine rooms — all with great views, most with balconies. In 1998, I enjoyed a big party with most of Arcos' big shots as they dedicated a fine room with a grand-view balcony to "Rick Steves, Periodista Turístico." Guess where I sleep when in Arcos (Sb-€55, Db-€70, Db with terrace-€85, third person-€18 extra, includes tax; 10 percent discount in 2008 when you book direct, pay in cash, and show current edition of Rick Steves' Portugal book, much less expensive Nov–Feb; parking on Plaza del Cabildo-€3.50, Maldonado 2, tel. 956-702-333, fax 956-704-128, www.hotelelconvento.es, reservas@hotelelconvento.es). Over an à la carte breakfast, bird-watch on their view terrace, with all of Andalucía spreading beyond your café con leche.
Parador de Arcos de la Frontera is royally located, elegant, recently refurbished, and reasonably priced, with 24 rooms (8 with balconies). If you're going to experience a parador, this is a good one (Sb-€110, Db-€140, Db with terrace-€170, breakfast-€13, air-con, elevator, minibars, free parking, Plaza del Cabildo, tel. 956-700-500, fax 956-701-116, www.parador.es, arcos@parador.es).
Hotel Los Olivos is a bright, cool, and airy place with 19 rooms, an impressive courtyard, roof garden, generous public spaces, bar, view, friendly folks, and easy parking. The seven view rooms can be a bit noisy in the afternoon but — with double-paned windows — are usually fine at night (Sb-€45, Db-€75, Tb-€87, extra bed-€12, breakfast-€7, includes tax, 10 percent discount with current edition of Rick Steves' Portugal book in 2008, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, Paseo de los Boliches 30, tel. 956-700-811, fax 956-702-018, www.hotelolivosarcos.com, reservas@hotel-losolivos.es, Raquel and Miguel Ángel).
Best Budget Option in Arcos
Hostal Callejón de las Monjas, with a tangled floor plan and nine simple rooms, offers the best cheap beds in the old town. It's on a sometimes-noisy street behind the Church of Santa María (Sb-€20, D-€27, Db-€33, Db with terrace-€39, Tb-€44, Qb apartments-€66, includes tax, air-con, Calle Deán Espinosa 4, tel. & fax 956-702-302, padua@mesonelpatio.com, staff speak no English). Friendly Sr. González Oca runs a tiny barbershop in the foyer and a restaurant in the cellar.
45. Morocco: Plunge Deep
Sleeping in Tangier
(9 dirhams = about $1, country code: 212, area code: 39)
These hotels are centrally located, near the TI, and within walking distance of the market. The first two are three-star hotels. To reserve from Europe, dial 00 (Europe's international access code), 212 (Morocco's country code), 39 (Tangier's city code), then the local number. July through mid-September is high season, when rooms may be a bit more expensive and reservations are wise. Most hotels charge an extra tax of 6 dirhams per person per night.
Hotel Rembrandt, with a restaurant, bar, and swimming pool surrounded by a great grassy garden, just feels like the 1940s. Its 75 rooms are clean and comfortable, and some come with views (Sb-470 dirhams, Db-620 dirhams, 100 dirhams more in June–Aug, 100 dirhams extra for sea view, breakfast-70 dirhams, air-con, elevator, Boulevard Muhammad V 1, tel. 93-78-70, fax 93-04-43, www.hotel-rembrandt.com, hotelrembrandt@menara.ma).
Hotel Continental, the Humphrey Bogart option, is a grand old place sprawling along the old town. It overlooks the port, with lavish, atmospheric public spaces, a chandeliered breakfast room, and 70 spacious bedrooms with rough hardwood floors. Jimmy, who's always around and runs the shop adjacent to the lobby, says he offers everything but Viagra. When I said, "I'm from Seattle," he said, "206." Test him — he knows your area code (Sb-364 dirhams, Db-438 dirhams; 10 percent more July–Sept; prices include tax, Dar Baroud 36, tel. 93-10-24, fax 93-11-43, hcontinental@iam.net.ma).
Hotel d'Anjou is a sleepable dive — the best dirt-cheap option I could find — renting 20 safe-feeling rooms on a quiet street two blocks off the harbor (Sb-140 dirhams, Db-160 dirhams, Tb-220 dirhams, 10 percent more in summer, just off Rue al-Antaki at Rue Ibn Albanna 3, tel. & fax 94-27-84, Hakim speaks English).
Updated for 2008. For lots more information, check out our best-selling Rick Steves' Spain and Rick Steves' Portugal guidebooks.