Portugal, Spain, and Morocco: Accommodations Listings
Included in this section:
42. Lisbon's Gold Still Shines
43. Salema, on Portugal's Sunny South Coast
44. Andalucía's Arcos de la Frontera and the Route of the White Villages
45. Morocco: Plunge Deep
42. Lisbon's Gold Still Shines
Sleeping in Lisbon
(country code: 351)
Central as can be, the Baixa district bustles with lots of shops, traffic, people, street musicians, pedestrian areas, and urban intensity.
Hotel Evidencia Lisboa Tejo (leezh-BO-ah TAY-zhoo) is an oasis of 58 comfy ocean-blue rooms with hardwood floors (Sb-€110, Db-€128, includes crowded buffet breakfast, 10 percent discount with current edition of Rick Steves' Portugal book, air-con, elevator, Internet access and Wi-Fi; from southeast corner of Praça da Figueira, walk 1 block down Rua dos Condes de Monsanto and turn left, Condes de Monsanto 2; tel. 218-866-182, fax 218-865-163, www.evidenciahoteis.com, evidencia.tejo@evidenciahoteis.com).
VIP Executive Suites Eden rents 134 slick and contemporary compact apartments (with small kitchens). It has a rooftop swimming pool and breakfast terrace with commanding city, castle, and river views. The building used to be a 1930s cinema, hence the Art Deco architecture and the slightly pie-shaped rooms. Perfectly located at the Rossio end of Avenida da Liberdade, this is a clean, quiet pool of modernity amid the ramshackle charm of Lisbon. It's also an intriguing option for groups or families of four (Db studio-€127, 2-bedroom apartment with bed-and-sofa combo that can sleep 4 people-€185, breakfast-€9, includes taxes, air-con, elevator, Praça dos Restauradores 24, tel. 213-216-600, fax 213-216-666, www.viphotels.com, res.eden@viphotels.com).
Best Budget Options in Lisbon
Pensão Residencial Gerês rents 20 bright, basic, cozy rooms with older plumbing but without the dingy smokiness that pervades Lisbon's cheaper hotels. Double-paned windows keep out much of the street noise (S-€45–50, Sb-€55–60, Db-€65–75, Tb-€85–100, 10 percent discount Nov–March with cash and current edition of Rick Steves' Portugal book, no breakfast, Internet access, uphill a block off northeast corner of Rossio, Calçada do Garcia 6, tel. 218-810-497, fax 218-882-006, www.pensaogeres.com, info@pensaogeres.com). The Nogueira family speaks some English.
Residencial Florescente rents 68 rooms on the "eating lane," a thriving pedestrian street a block off Praça dos Restauradores. It's newly renovated with charming rooms (Sb-€40–45, Db-€60–65, bigger twin Db-€70–85, Tb-€85–95, higher prices apply July–Sept, ask for 10 percent Rick Steves discount, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 99, tel. 213-426-609, fax 213-427-733, www.residencialflorescente.com, geral@residencialflorescente.com).
Albergaria Residencial Insulana, on a pedestrian street, has 32 quiet, airy rooms and a professional, friendly staff (big Sb-€55, Db-€70, extra bed-€15, air-con, elevator, Rua da Assunção 52, tel. 213-423-131, fax 213-428-924, www.insulana.net, info@insulana.net, Fernando).
Pensão Praça da Figueira is a backpacker place on a dreary but central street with 30 clean, basic rooms; a kitchen on every floor; and youth hostel prices. A little street noise is a minor downside (D-€28–38, Ds-€38–48, Db-€48–58, singles-€7 less, extra bed-€20, 2 flights up with no elevator, entrance is on Travessa Nova de São Domingos 9 behind Praça da Figueira, tel. 213-426-757, fax 213-424-323, www.pensaopracadafigueira.com, pensaofigueira@clix.pt).
43. Salema, On Portugal's Sunny South Coast
Sleeping in Salema
(country code: 351)
Salema is crowded July through mid-September (and August is horribly packed). Prices jump up in July and August, and the place is partially closed down in winter.
For maximum comfort, there's no need to look beyond Pensión Maré. There's also a basic and utilitarian high-rise hotel in the center of town. But for economy, the experience, and an opportunity to practice your Portuguese, stay in a quarto (room), most of which are along the main road that parallels the waterfront. Fisherfolk happily rent out rooms in their homes, most of which have separate private entrances.
Quartos don't serve breakfast, and breakfast at hotels isn't until 8:30 (after the bread guy arrives at Salema). Early birds can enjoy coffee and pastries from 7:30 on at Solmar Café (next to Salema Property and Services, opposite Hotel Residencial Salema) or savor a substantial cooked breakfast from 8:00 at Corsário's simple restaurant (next door to Hotel Residencial Salema).
Pensión Maré, a blue-and-white building overlooking the village above the main road into town, is the best hotel value in Salema. Two easygoing Brits, John and Annette, run the place, offering six comfortable rooms (Sb-€52–60, Db-€65–75, includes wonderful breakfast) and three fully equipped apartments (Db-€60–85) in a tidy paradise (10 percent discount with Rick Steves' Portugal book and cash if arranged discreetly and in advance, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, Praia de Salema, tel. 282-695-165, fax 282-695-846, www.the-mare.com has good Salema information). John will hold a room with a phone call and a credit-card number. They would like to retire — any bidders?
Hotel Residencial Salema, the oversized hotel towering above everything else in town, is a good value if you want a basic, comfortable room handy to the beach. Its 32 red-tiled rooms all have air-conditioning, balconies, and partial views (Sb-€81, Db-€94 mid-July–mid-Sept; Sb-€65, Db-€72 June–mid-July and mid–late Sept; Sb-€53, Db-€65 March–May and Oct–Nov; may be closed Dec–Feb, 10 percent discount with current edition of Rick Steves' Portugal book, includes breakfast, elevator, bar, tel. 282-695-328, fax 282-695-329, www.hotelsalema.com, info@hotelsalema.com).
Best Budget Options in Salema
Quartos abound along the residential street (running left from the village center as you face the beach). Ask one of the locals at the waterfront, or check at the Boia Bar or Salema Market. Prices vary with the season, plumbing, and view, but if you're only staying one night, you're bad news. Doubles cost about €25–45 (forget breakfast and credit cards). Many places offer beachfront views — it's worth paying extra for rooms com vista (with a view). Some apartments are bright and sprawling, while some rooms are dark and musty. Quarto landladies generally speak only a little English, but they're used to dealing with visitors. Many will clean your laundry for about €4 or so. If you're settling in for a while or are on a tight budget, park your bags and travel partner at a beachside bar and survey several places. Except for August weekends, there are always rooms available for those dropping in. Especially outside of July and August, prices can be soft.
Maria Helena and Jorge Ribeiro, a helpful young couple, rent two small, simple doubles (S or D-€35 all year, one has a tiny view) and a charming treehouse-type suite with a kitchen, a view terrace, and a view toilet for Db-€40–50 (Rua dos Pescadores 83, tel. 282-695-289, mobile 965-825-356).
The Acacio family rents a humble ground-floor double (D-€25–30) and a fine upstairs apartment with a kitchenette, a balcony over the beach, and a great ocean view for up to five people (Db-€45, Tb-€50, Qb-€70, Rua dos Pescadores 91, tel. 282-695-473). Silvina doesn't speak English and she pouts if you're staying only one night.
Casa Duarte, right above the beach, has three pleasant, traditional rooms (all with great views), a communal kitchenette, and two terraces (D-€35–45, €5 less for two or more nights, tel. 282-695-206 or contact kind Joaquin's English-speaking daughter, Cristina, at tel. 282-695-307, or his son Romeu, who owns the Salema Market). From Rua dos Pescadores, turn right at Clube Recreativo, then follow the paved path above the beach. Duarte's is at #7, the first building on the right, down some steps.
Campers who don't underestimate the high tides sleep free and easy on the beach (public showers available in the town center) or at a well-run campground with bungalows a half-mile inland, back toward the main road (ask at Salema Property and Services).
44. Andalucía's Arcos de la Frontera and the Route of the White Villages
Sleeping in Arcos, Spain
(country code: 34)
Hotel El Convento, deep in the old town just beyond the parador, is the best value in town. Run by a hardworking family and their wonderful staff, this cozy hotel offers 13 fine rooms — all with great views, most with balconies. In 1998, I enjoyed a big party with most of Arcos' big shots as they dedicated a fine room with a grand-view balcony to "Rick Steves, Periodista Turístico." Guess where I sleep when in Arcos... (Sb with balcony-€55, Sb with terrace-€68, Db with balcony-€70, Db with terrace-€85, extra person-€18; 10 percent discount in 2010 when you book direct, pay in cash, and show this year's book; cheaper Nov–Feb; parking on Plaza del Cabildo-€3.50, Maldonado 2, tel. 956-702-333, fax 956-704-128, www.hotelelconvento.es, reservas@hotelelconvento.es). Over an à la carte breakfast, bird-watch on their view terrace, with all of Andalucía spreading beyond your café con leche.
Parador de Arcos de la Frontera is royally located, with 24 elegant, recently refurbished, and reasonably priced rooms (8 have balconies). If you're going to experience a parador, this is a good one (Sb-€115–124, Db-€144–155, Db with terrace-€173–186, cheaper rates are from Nov–Feb, breakfast-€15, air-con, elevator, minibar, free parking, Plaza del Cabildo, tel. 956-700-500, fax 956-701-116, www.parador.es, arcos@parador.es).
Hotel Los Olivos is a bright, cool, and airy place with 19 rooms, an impressive courtyard, roof garden, generous public spaces, bar, view, friendly folks, and easy parking. The seven view rooms can be a bit noisy in the afternoon, but — with double-paned windows — are usually fine at night (Sb-€40–45, Db-€60–75, Tb-€72–87, extra bed-€12, breakfast-€8, 10 percent discount with cash and this year's book, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, Paseo de los Boliches 30, tel. 956-700-811, fax 956-702-018, www.hotel-losolivos.es, reservas@hotel-losolivos.es, Raquel and Miguel Ángel).
Best Budget Option in Arcos
Hostal Callejón de las Monjas is open sporadically, but offers the best cheap beds in the old town. With a tangled floor plan and nine simple rooms, it's on a sometimes-noisy street behind the Church of Santa María (Sb-€20, D-€27, Db-€33, Db with terrace-€39, Tb-€44, Qb apartments-€66, includes tax, air-con, Calle Deán Espinosa 4, tel. & fax 956-702-302, padua@mesonelpatio.com, staff speak no English). Sr. González Oca, a ladies' man, runs a tiny barbershop in the foyer and a restaurant in the cellar.
45. Morocco: Plunge Deep
Sleeping in Tangier
(8 dirhams = about $1, country code: 212)
These hotels are centrally located, near the TI, and within walking distance of the market. The first two are three-star hotels and take credit cards; the others are cash-only. To reserve from Europe, dial 00 (Europe's international access code), 212 (Morocco's country code), 539 (Tangier's city code), then the local number. July through mid-September is high season, when rooms may be a bit more expensive and reservations are wise. Most hotels charge an extra tax of 10 dirhams per person per night.
Hotel Rembrandt just feels like the 1940s, with a restaurant, bar, and swimming pool surrounded by a great grassy garden. Its 75 rooms are clean and comfortable, and some come with views (Sb-530–630 dirhams, Db-710–780 dirhams, higher prices are for June–Aug, sea view-100 dirhams extra, includes tax, breakfast-80 dirhams, air-con, elevator, Boulevard Mohammed VI 1, tel. 0539-937-870, fax 0539-930-443, www.hotel-rembrandt.com, hotelrembrandt@menara.ma).
Hotel Continental is the Humphrey Bogart option, a grand old place sprawling along the old town. It overlooks the port, with lavish, atmospheric and recently renovated public spaces, a chandeliered breakfast room, and 70 spacious bedrooms with rough hardwood floors and new bathrooms. Jimmy, who's always around and runs the shop adjacent to the lobby, says he offers everything but Viagra. When I said, "I'm from Seattle," he said, "206." Test him — he knows your area code (Sb-422 dirhams, Db-552 dirhams, about 100 dirhams more July–Sept, includes tax and breakfast, cash only, Dar Baroud 36, tel. 0539-931-024, fax 0539-931-143, hcontinental@iam.net.ma).
Hotel d'Anjou is a sleepable dive — the best dirt-cheap option I could find — renting 20 safe-feeling rooms on a quiet street two blocks off the harbor (Sb-140–215 dirhams, Db-160–270 dirhams, Tb-220–320 dirhams, higher prices are for summer, breakfast included only in summer, cash only, just off Rue al-Antaki at Rue Ibn Albanna 3, tel. & fax 0539-942-784, Hakim speaks English).
Updated for 2009. For lots more information, check out our best-selling Rick Steves' Spain and Rick Steves' Portugal guidebooks.