New for 2006: Santiago de Compostela
The following material is fresh out of the rucksack from Rick. It'll appear in the 2006 edition of our guidebook. We haven't edited it yet, so it's still rough. But if you're traveling in 2005, print it out to take along.
What's New in Santiago de Compostela
While updating his Spain book this summer, Rick expanded the sightseeing, sleeping and eating sections for Santiago de Compostela. Enjoy!
Praza do Obradoiro, in front of the Cathedral
Find the pavement stone with the scallop shell right in the middle of this square. For more than a thousand years, this spot has been where millions of tired pilgrims have taken a deep breath and thought to themselves: “I made it!” To maximize your chance of seeing pilgrims, be here around 10:00 — the last stop on the Camino is two miles away, and pilgrims try to get to the cathedral in time for the 12:00 Mass. (It's great fun to chat with pilgrims who've just completed their journey. They seem to be very centered and content with the experience and tuned in to the important things in life...like taking time to talk with others.)
Galician Folk Music
While the summer time is lively with folk music concerts, most of the year you'll be hard-pressed to see the folk music and dance in action. One good bet is to drop by a practice session of the Folkloric Grupo Cantigas e Agarimos (meets Wed and Fri at 21:30 for an hour, Rua da Algalia de Arriba 11 but likely relocated in 2006 — ask at the TI). Since 1921 this group has shared the traditional culture with visitors in performances throughout the year. Tall Oscar Cobos is a group leader who lived in NYC for five years and has clearly found his niche here as a dancer and dance teacher here in what he calls “the kingdom of far far away.”
Sleeping in Santiago de Compostela
[$$$] Hotel Virxe da Cerca is a wonderful splurge just on the edge of the historical center, across the street from the market. Its standard rooms are in a modern building, but some of its “superior” and all of its “special” historic rooms — with classy old stone and hardwoods — are in a restored 18th-century monastery. All 43 rooms surround a lush garden oasis (standard Sb-€65–75, superior Sb-€75–85, bigger “special” Sb-€85–95, standard Db-€75–85, superior Db-€85–95, bigger “special” Db-€95–105, extra bed-€15–20, breakfast buffet-€8, beautiful glassed-in breakfast room overlooks garden, elevator, Internet, Rúa Virxe da Cerca 27, tel. 902-40-5858, fax 981-586-925, www.pousadasdecompostela.com, SE).
[$$$] Hostal dos Reis Católicos brags that it's the oldest hotel in the world. Founded by the Catholic Kings at the beginning of the 16th century to care for pilgrims arriving from the Camino, it was converted into an upscale parador 50 years ago. This grand place is built around a series of four courtyards packed with Santiago history (but not tourists — only guests are allowed to wander). It has the best address in Santiago...and prices to match (standard Db-€225, many fancier options, includes breakfast, Praza do Obradoiro 1, tel. 981-582-200, fax 981-563-094, santiago@parador.es, SE). This place still remembers its roots, offering a free breakfast to pilgrims who've hiked the Camino (the first ten to arrive each day).
[$$] Hotel Residencia Costa Vella, run by the Liñares family, is my favorite spot in Santiago, with 14 comfortable rooms combining classic charm and modern comforts. The glassed-in breakfast room and lounge terrace overlook a peaceful garden, with lovely views of a nearby church and monastery and into the countryside beyond. The place deserves a feature in some “better stones and tiles” magazine (Sb-€40–46, standard Db-€58–65, Db with balcony-€74–79, breakfast-€5, Calle Puerta de la Peña 17, tel. 981-569-530, fax 981-569-531, www.costavella.com, hotelcostavella@costavella.com, friendly José SE).
[$$] Hotel Airas Nunes and Hotel San Clemente are both affiliated with Hotel Virxe da Cerca, above. They're equally good, stress-free, safe, and professional-feeling; both have 10 rooms in restored old buildings with classy touches, and both can be reserved through the same office (tel. 981-569-350, fax 981-586-925, www.pousadasdecompostela.com). Hotel Airas Nunes is just outside the old town (Sb-€50–70, Db-€60–80, extra bed-€15–20, breakfast-€6, Rúa do Vilar 17, reception tel. 981-554-706, SE); Hotel San Clemente — about €5 less-- is on a peaceful street in the old center a few blocks in front of the cathedral (Sb-€50–65, Db-€60–75, extra bed-€15–20, breakfast-€5, Rúa San Clemente 28, reception tel. 981-569-260, SE).
Hostal Residencia Gaidas, tucked away just beyond the market, faces its tidy little square like it owns it. The Giadas family runs a small café/bar and rents 8 rooms upstairs. The rooms, in spite of the slanted floors and linoleum “hardwood,” are charming (Sb-€25, Db-€42, Tb-€56, elevator, next to Puerta del Camino at Plaza del Matadero 2, tel. 981-58-7071, delightful Lola SE).
[$] Hostal Suso, run by the Quintela family, offers 10 ridiculously cheap, new-feeling rooms around an airy atrium over a cheery little bar in the heart of Santiago (Sb-€18–20, Db-€32–38, Rúa do Vilar 65, tel. 981-586-611).
[$] Hostal Residencia Libredon Barbantes consists of two hostales that face each other across a square a block from the cathedral. They share a reception desk (at the Libredon), as well as clean, modern, Scandinavian-design rooms that are an excellent value for the near-perfect location. Barbantes' 17 rooms (Sb-€36–40, Db with 1 big bed-€40–45, twin Db-€50–60, Rúa do Franco 3) and Libredon's 19 rooms (Ss-€27–30, Sb-€36–40, Db-€40–60) are about equal in comfort (Praza do Fonseca 5; reception for both at Libredon, generally open 9:00–21:00, closed Sun afternoon, tel. 981-576-520, info@libredonbarbantes.com, www.libredonbarbantes.com, SE).
[$] Hostal Residencia Mapoula offers 11 fine rooms on a little lane on the edge of the historical center (Sb-€25–30, Db-€30–37, Tb-€40-47, elevator plus a few stairs, Entremurallas 10, tel. 981-580-124, fax 981-584-089, mapoula@mapoula.com, Manuel SE). This is the nearest to the train station of my listings.
[$] Hospedaje Ramos is a good bet for rock-bottom-budget, renting ten big, plain, clean rooms with lots of stairs right in the center of town (Sb-€18, Db-€30, prices include tax, Raíña 18, tel. 981-581-859, NSE).
Eating in Santiago de Compostela
Seafood and More in the Old Center
The easiest place to get your Santiago seafood fix is on two streets just south of the cathedral: Rúa do Franco and Rúa do Vilar. These lanes are lined with literally dozens of touristy seafood places. Even the places that seem “local” probably aren't — the Spanish-speaking clientele are mostly tourists from other parts of the country. Go for a stroll, examine the window display cases, and pop into the place that looks best. You've got a wide range of options: atmospheric mid-range spots; high-end, white-tablecloth splurges; and grumpy, simple, stripped-down joints actually frequented by locals. Generally, these places feel interchangeable; follow your nose.
A Taberna do Bispo is a lively Barcelona-style place serving montaditos (little €1 open face sandwiches) at the bar, raciones at the tables, and good wine by the glass (13:00-02:00, closed Mon, Rua do Franco 37, tel. 981-586045). You might pick up a sandwich to go as you explore the other Rua do Franco options.
O Gato Nero is a smoky no-frills tapas bar stuck in the past and filled with loyal locals (11:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00 daily, Rua Reina).
Hostal dos Reis Católicos — the fancy old hospital sharing the square with the cathedral — has two fine restaurants, both downstairs. The main restaurant, Libredón, fills a former stable under a dramatic stone vault, offering international dishes — often with live piano — for €12–30. It's as atmospheric as it gets, with stiff tuxedoed service, white tablecloths, and not a hint of fun (a variety of interesting €30 menus, daily 13:30–16:00 & 20:30–23:00, reservations smart, Praza do Obradoiro 1, tel. 981-582-200). A few steps away, Enaxebre offers a livelier, easygoing-tavern vibe, good traditional Galacian food, and lower prices (€5–12 dishes, daily 13:00–16:00 & 20:00–23:30, tel. 981-050-527).
Restaurante Don Gaiferos is a classy, highly-regarded splurge, under a mighty stone vault (main dishes €15–20, Tue–Sat 13:15–15:45 & 20:15–23:15, Sun–Mon 13:15–15:45 only, Rúa Nova 23, tel. 981-583-894).
Bar Restaurante La Churrasquita is a colorful place facing the little church just behind the market. The bar is where the local gang watches TV and tosses things on the floor. The little restaurant in the back is where women meet after doing their market chores (meals €5 to €10, open all day, full meals from 13:00-16:00 and 21:00-23:00, Plazuela de San Felix 6, tel. 981-58 2657).
Restaurante Casa Manolo is where students on a tight budget go for a classy meal out. This smart little place combines sleek contemporary design, good Galician and Spanish food, and excellent prices (€6 menu gives you two generous courses, plus water, bread, and dessert; Mon–Sat 13:00–16:00 & 20:30–23:30, Sun 13:00–16:00, at the bottom of Plaza de Cervantes, tel. 981-582-950).
Near the Galician Museum and the Monastery of San Domingos
O Dezaseis (“The Sixteen”) is every local's favorite: a friendly, laid-back cellar with stone walls, heavy beams, and interesting art, strewn with old farm implements (raciones €4–9, meat and fish dishes €10–12, Mon–Sat 14:00–16:00 & 20:30–24:00, closed Sun, Rúa de San Pedro 16, tel. 981-564-880).
Vegetariano Restaurante Cabalino do Demo offers a creative international menu in rustic surroundings with white table cloths (€6 plates, €9 menu, 14:00-16:00, 21:00-23:00, closed Sun and Mon, go upstairs at Rua Aller Ulloa 1, tel. 981-58-8146).
Ambius Veter Bar is a smoky place lively with locals, greasy tapas, and cheap meals (Calle Aller Ulloa 3,
Cafés
Café Casino , a former private club, is a tired taste of turn-of-the-20th-century elegance with occasional live piano music. Local tour guides recommend this smoky place to their timid British groups, who wouldn't touch an octopus with a 10-foot pole (€4 salads, €6 pizzas, daily 9:00–23:00, Rúa do Vilar 35).
Café Cosa Vella , really the breakfast room and garden of a highly recommended hotel, welcomes non-guests for coffee and a relaxing break in a time warp and poetic garden with leafy views (daily 8:00-23:00, Calle Puerta de la Pena 17, tel. 981-569-530).
Café Terra Nova really is the new land for four men from Houston. These Quaro Hombres de Texas (Matt, Troy, Scott, and Brian) relocated here with their families and run a fine and friendly place three minutes from the cathedral just across from the police station (internet access, wireless, daily 9:00-24:00, Rodrigo de Padrón 2, tel. 981-574-687). This can be a welcoming place to hang out with ex-pat Americans to learn more about Santiago.