Despite the scars of war, Mostar is still stunning, straddling the banks of the gorgeous Neretva River, with tributaries and waterfalls carving their way through the rocky landscape. The sightseeing — mosques, old Turkish-style houses, and that spine-tingling Old Bridge — is more engaging than much of what you'll find in Croatia or Slovenia. (And it's cheap: Hotels, food, and museums are less than half the prices you'll pay in Dubrovnik or Ljubljana.) While a visit to Mostar was depressing not that long ago, the city gets more uplifting all the time: Mostarians are rebuilding at an impressive pace, tentatively re-integrating, and working hard to make Mostar tourist-friendly. Before long, Mostar will reclaim its status as one of the premier destinations in the former Yugoslavia. Visit now, while it still has its rough-around-the-edges charm — you'll have seen it before it really took off.