• Church of St. Mark

Zagreb

Surprise: The landlocked Croatian capital is, quite possibly, the country’s most underrated destination. In this land of time-passed coastal villages, Zagreb offers a welcome jolt of big-city sophistication. You can’t get a complete picture of modern Croatia without a visit here — away from the touristy resorts, in the lively and livable city that is home to one out of every six Croatians. In Zagreb, you’ll find historic neighborhoods, a thriving café culture, my favorite urban people-watching in Croatia, the nation’s best museums, and virtually no tourists.