Accessible Europe?: 2002-2003
We have just created a guidebook for travelers with mobility problems (ranging from having difficulty walking to using a wheelchair), with the focus on London, Paris, Amsterdam, Bruges, Frankfurt, and the Rhine. Please share any tips or comments for people with disabilities regarding European travel in general and these destinations in particular. Thanks for your help.
Traveling With the Elderly
I have "dragged" my 75 year old mother to London, France, Italy and am planning a trip to Germany. I have been looking for information like this for sometime and thought about putting something together myself. This will be a tremendous help to many!
Although my mother is not in a wheelchair, long walks and stairs can be a problem. We often make use of the "hop on and off" bus tours and taxis to get around as the metros can be a problem since many do not have elevators or escalators.
I try to plan our travels to sites that are not too difficult for her but sometimes that is unavoidable. I've learned to slow down, take as many breaks as we need and have even brought along a folding stool to use for mass at St Peter's, a park or even on a street when she needed.
Occassionally we hire a private guide instead of one of the local group guides. Sometimes it doesn't cost much more and they are very accomadating.
T Weller
Burnsville, MN USA Sun 12/28/2003
London Underground
London's Underground is handy, but I found the lack of wheelchair access extremely frustrating. I asked an employee if there were elevators and the man actually laughed! He explained that the tube stations are quite antiquated, and in some places there aren't even escalators. There are, however, bus alternatives for people aren't able to climb the two flights of stairs it takes to get to the tube from Victoria station. Time to do an overhaul...
Cathy Clark
Seattle, WA USA Wed 10/15/2003
Tips for the Disabled
I'm totally blind and have travelled many times all over Europe with my
wife; no hotel reservations; no fixed itinerary in mind; and everything
has been a success. Here are a few tips I have put into practice--they might
also be helpful to people with different disabilities.
Make sure to inform the airline you have a disability. I would not do so until on a Lufthansa flight to Munich, when the attendant served my food, she noticed I had visual problems. After a few minutes, she came back and firmly, but friendly, counseled me not to board an airplane without making it known to the crew. Otherwise, in case of an emergency, "We're going to be asking ourselves, why is he not running?", as she put it. Remember that we as disabled travellers have a responsibility to inform others about our situation. Doing so, will not bring any unnecessary load upon the attendants. Just think how harmful and frustrating for them to realized you couldn't leave the plane due to your disability and they did not know anything about it! Also, you may ask to pre-board the plane thus making things a lot easier for you.
Although I would not unfold my cane when sightseeing and traveling around, some security guards at the London tube noticed of course, that my wife was giving me directions to pass through the ticket machine..where you stick it in and you're allow to enter into the track area. Well, they would ask me to pass through another access door near by. I believe this door is for disabled persons and/or other services. Anyway, if you can, ask a guard or anyone in charge to give you instructions. Again, ask, ask, ask, and they will help you out. I would only ask for help when there was something obviously impossible for me to do. Of course, disabilities range so widely but the rule is the same--ask if there are accommodations for disabled people everywhere you go.
Once I decided to take out my cane, we discovered how considerate the people are: Paris, London, Brussels, Amsterdam, Munich, Vienna, Prague, Budapest, Rome, Florence, Venice...the list goes on. At the ticket window at the Tower of London, the lady saw me and charged my wife half the ticket whereas I was free of charge. The Louvre in Paris was free for me, not half price for my "guide" as they had said in London. The Eiffel Tower was free for both of us; I don't know if that's a rule or if the officer let us in out of kindness. The rules may change from country to country, but again, ask what the discounts are and you will be amazed.
The bottom line would be to help others to help you: let them know you are disabled (if your disability is not obvious); ask for a room close to the exit, elevator, etc. Be flexible and don't try to enforce special treatment unless it is critical you need it in a given situation.
Our favorite thing to do in Europe is interview locals. We learn the basics of the languages--hello, my name is...what is your name?...I am from...nice to meet you...tell us about your country...etc, etc. We videotape them and enjoy it tremendously. Since I'm the person doing the interviews and my wife is filming, I start by pointing at my eyes and making the 'no" with my index finger. Once they get it, the interviews become even more fun--a couple of guards at the Vatican hugged me kindly. Another couple from Australia that saw us in the hotel, approached us and told us we where an inspiration for them because we looked so happy.
The idea behind all of this is not to let your disability spoil your
life; in this case, your vacation! True, being totally blind keeps me
from enjoying the beautiful view from the top of the Swiss Alps, or the
Tuscan hills, but sharing the moment with my dear wife and "seeing" how
she is enjoying it, gives my vacations to Europe a wonderful touch. Get
out and enjoy life! Better yet, enjoy Europe! As one italian friend told
us, "Here in Italy, we make the most out of each day's moment!" Another
local in England said to us, "If you stop to look around, you will find
so many things to enjoy." Yes, your attitude as a disabled traveller will
really make a difference. Gruezy!
Juan Hernandez
Austin, Texas USA Sat 10/11/2003
London
My daughter and I are off again to London this year for Thanksgiving weekend.
Actually, we wanted to go to a concert and it just happens to be in Brighton,
England, and there are some incredible deals for travel. We were in London
in 2002, and we found very few problems with accessibility. We flew into
Heathrow and were met at the plane and escorted through customs, luggage
retrieval, cash machine, and to the taxi (I was too tired to try the underground).
The Brits could not have been more accommodating; it was a wonderful experience
for my then 16 yr. old daughter; so much so that she is thinking about studying
abroad.
USA Sun 09/28/2003
Restrooms in London, Paris, and Florence
There are plenty of accessible restrooms in these three cities. The restrooms
are usually locked with entrance limited to people who really need them.
At the Eiffel Tower, there is an elevator to the restroom which is below
ground. You must ask the matron who will then "Beam you down". The restrooms
at sights such as the Pitti Palace and the Ufizi in Florence are also locked
and again you must ask for a key. All of the restrooms that we used were
large and clean. In Italy, it is illegal to use the restroom in a restaurant
without purchasing something. We found several restaurants in Florence that
have accessible wc's; also if the hotels are accessbile they will often
let you use their restrooms, although they can be somewhat smaller.
WCs in Europe tend to be smaller than those in the USA (probably because
we tend to have more girth in general) so if you use a chair larger than
29" total width, you may want to locate one smaller than that for your
trip. Camberred wheels usually make the difference. Also check with the
hotel yourself before leaving home to ensure that they are truly accessible.
Kaye Norlin
La Salle, IL USA Sun 09/28/2003
Wheelchair accessibility
We just returned from a trip that included London and Paris. We were with
a cruise group (I know that goes against your grain, but our physical conditions
prevent traveling your way though I always swear by your advice) so we stayed
in "5-star" hotels. This was our first trip with a travel wheelchair. My
husband can walk short distances and make transfers, but has balance and
exhaustion problems.
We first ran into a problem I never expected. The entry ramp into the Paris Le Meridien hotel lobby was very steep, I almost lost control of the wheelchair and we came within inches of crashing through the plate glass window. Naturally, pushing him up the ramp was not a possibility. I went through many Euros getting assistance for the rest of our stay. Paris taxis are happy to take a wheelchair and very kind about helping, as are all public servants we encountered in Paris.
The only exceptions are some of the Louvre employees, who obviously wish you hadn't come. By the way, admission to the Louvre for wheelchairs is free. If I had known, it would have saved time standing in a busy early morning Metro line to buy admission tickets. There were very few elevators in the Louvre and the one we tried to use didn't work properly so we we spent more time in the elevator than viewing the objects. The other two elevators were closed with no explanation. We saw Winged Victory and Mona Lisa. Both were very difficult to get to and involved lots of pushing. The elevator didn't go up to Venus. We spent over 3 hours in the Louvre, much of it fighting with the single operating elevator, and didn't see very much. Winged Victory was probably worth it. I recommend calling first.
Please advise your readers that elevators in a very old building like the Louvre and the Hermitage are for people who can't take the stairs, not for people who are tired. I was very impressed in Paris that every street corner we crossed was wheelchair accessible. We encountered no unexpected steps and were very pleasantly surprised.
London, however, is another matter. Especially Gatwick airport. We found several accessible corners and visitor centers in Greenwich. Otherwise, the only accessible building we encountered was our hotel, which was a long walk for my husband to the main street. The concierge told me a good pub was just "2 blocks away." Ha. It was at least 6 or 7 long blocks and by the time we realized this, it was the point of no return. It ruined my husband's day. He was exhausted upon our return to the hotel.
All London curbs we encountered had a very high step. I saw no wheelchair accessible alterations anywhere in London proper. Gatwick was a nightmare. Make sure you are dropped off at the wheelchair-carriage-cane terminal entrance. This is the only location to find porters (sky caps). The assistance phone located conveniently inside the terminal does not work. Period. Thank heaven some nice car rental people saw me and told me where to find a porter -- 50 yards away. I had to run (with a fever and deep cough) to get a porter. After first refusing, he reluctantly came to the regular terminal entrance after I promised him that my husband was in a wheelchair and that he would be handsomely rewarded. When he saw the wheelchair and pile of luggage, he took over willingly. But he was not allowed to go through security, unlike USA and Mexico, and I had to push my husband for about 20 minutes to the boarding gate. We passed a sign that indicated toilet facilities were 15 minutes' walk behind us. I would pay more to avoid Gatwick.
You aren't going to cover it, but forget St. Petersburg, Russia, if you have any kind of mobility problem. It's hard enough to deal with if you're mobile.
We took some small boat cruises on this trip and wheelchairs were not an option. We were told in Paris that the dinner cruise on the Seine was wheelchair accessible, but it is not. He had to use his cane and still had considerable assistance by the staff. They were extremely helpful, but had he had been unable to get around without a wheelchair, we would not have enjoyed this particularly memorable experience. We had a travel wheelchair -- he normally doesn't use a wheelchair since he rarely walks any distance -- so pushing was the only option. Although I am very inexperienced in this matter. we encountered just enough problems that I think a wheelchair-bound individual would find it easier to have someone along who can help negotiate the more difficult curbs and corners.
We're both glad we went and we'd go back to Paris in a heartbeat. We'll
skip the Louvre and go to the Orsay, which everyone recommended anyway.
Rosemary McIntosh
Friendswood, TX USA Sun 06/22/2003
Accessible London
My daughter, who uses a wheelchair, and I went to London, Paris, and Florence
last spring. I was impressed with the help we received from the moment we
checked in at our flight (Scandanavian Air) to the moment we boarded the
train for Paris. I had made our reservations for all shows we wanted to
see on-line so that they were ready for the w/c upon our arrival.
At the Globe in London, we were escorted to our seats via back-stage so we were able to see the actors preparing. What great fun- Shakespeare the way it was intended-with all male actors. We "picnicked" as we watched the "12th Night" and then walked back to our hotel late at night. We felt safe the entire time- Imagine that in Chicago! the cabs that you phone up are not accessible and the black cabs do not go to the Globe that late (they are w/c accessible).
We also went to see Michael Ball in a show in the West End in London. We were asked to phone ahead so they could meet us and escort us through the accessible door at the rear of the theatre to our seats. After the show, we were escorted to meet Mr. Ball. (We have been great fans for years.) At the Tower, we were approached by a Beefeater guard who took us on a private tour and assisted pushing the chair over the rough terrain.
Every place we visited in London was terrific with the assistance and
the accessibility. It wasn't Berkeley (the most accessible city in America)
but it was fabulous. Anyone with assistance needs, phone ahead and you
will receive all the help you want. The Londoners came to us everywhere
we went; we never needed to ask for help. America could learn some lessons!
If anyone has any questions before they go, I took notes, so write. And
have a wonderful time!
Kaye Norlin
LaSalle, IL USA Sat 06/07/2003
Buses, boats, and wheelchairs
My 73 year old mother can not get around well so I took advantage of the
free wheelchairs available at the Louvre and Musee D'Orsay in Paris. All
I had to do was leave my passport at the counter which was returned when
I brought the wheelchair back. We got to see everything she was interested
in much quicker than if she had tried to walk those halls! We also took
advantage of the "L'Open" hop on/hop off bus tour which was a good bargain
at 26 euros for 2 days. Mother got to see more and do more since she didn't
have to walk from the Metros (if she could have survived them!)
Also, I used the services of Lindbergh Bus Tours in Amsterdam to give
her an all day tour of the country. Seating was a little cramped but it
was a good alternative to her having to walk so much. (*BTW--the Circle
20 tram in Amsterdam was discontinued last fall. It would have served
as a good overview of Amsterdam. Instead, we took a scenic canal boat
ride that gave her a good overview (although it WAS difficult walking
down the steps to the boat launch and climbing into the boat). So, buses,
boats, and wheelchairs made my mother's trip much more fulfilling.
Gail
Almere, NL Wed 05/28/2003
London
Wonderful idea!! I began European travel as "slow walker," now travel with
my own wheelchair with husband as "pusher". I also use oxygen at night in
my hotel room. You can imagine the fun that is to find and plan. We use
buses and taxis, & walk a lot. I have been know to crawl into a taxi, have
strangers pull or push me up bus steps. Londoners are very kind and helpful.
Access London has been helpful.There are more and more lifts, many curb cuts, and the RADAR scheme of ground floor loos. I wish every travel ad for lodgings (US and Europe) would note if handicapped accessible. Those long flights of stairs to the entrance never seem to count. We have stayed in many hotels, most with a few steps here & there. More ramps now. We prefer Central London to avoid public transportation as much as possible.
We last stayed at the Strand Palace (June 2002), and they had a makeshift
ramp at the side entrance, three elevators, and breakfast room on the
ground floor. Very handy. I call ahead to box offices for the theatre,
and tell them I can't climb many stairs, & use a chair, and they are always
most helpful. Amazing the hidden lifts in theatres, as well as museums.
Staff helped me when I was a "stick" user too -- spirited me away to these
back halls where the lifts were. Saw amazing props at the Globe this way
too. And secret passages at Hampton Court. I am very knowledgeable on
London & would be glad to help.
Barrie Altenhof
Longview, WA USA Fri 05/23/2003
Airport Wheelchair Assist
Most people will consider using one of the 'Low Cost - No Frills' airlines
if travelling within Europe. Wheelchair passengers need to be aware that
they use slightly different procedures to mainstream scheduled airlines.
Mainstream airlines employ their own customer service assistants to help
wheelchair passengers from check-in to boarding. No Frills airlines use
a pool of people employed by the airport for a variety of duties. What this
means in practical terms for wheelchair passengers is that even if they
have booked wheelchair assistance with a 'No Frills' they are not by any
means guaranteed to receive that service - once the airline has passed the
request on to the airport pool it is absolved of responsibility. Full Service
airlines do have to meet their obligations. If you are a wheelchair passenger
and are using a 'No Frills' it is a good idea to check in as early as possible.
Another thing to remember is that smaller airports in Europe do not always
have air ramps ( which allow direct access to an aircraft ). Instead they
still use the old mobile steps to board an aircraft. Obviously when this
is the case wheelchair passengers will need a manual assistance to be carried
onto the aircraft. At smaller airports often the aircraft can be docked
away from the departure terminal and passengers will be taken on a bus to
the aircraft. Obviously this has implications for wheelchair passengers.
Al Bishop
Nottingham, UK Thu 05/22/2003
Museum of London
The Museum of London has free electric carts for visitors. You have to use
the freight elevator because the passenger elevator is too small but the
staff was really great and concerned about me getting to see everything.
Linda Sand
Minneapolis, MN USA Mon 03/31/2003
UK and London accessible travel
I'm a long time para using a manual chair, in reasonably good shape. A friend
and I just returned from a 2 week UK vacation which was wonderful! I contacted
Gordon Couch (gordon.couch@virgin.net) at the London Access Guide for info
while planning a recent trip to the UK. I found the ACCESS guide information
invaluable in planning (and executing) an independent vacation in the UK,
especially for getting around in London. I have to say I was very pleasantly
surprised to find out how accessible London is. As a first time visitor
from the US, I'm not sure that I expected the level of accessibility re:
ramps, curb cuts, double decker buses and over the road coaches with lifts
(we don't have those in the US yet, despite pressure and protests against
major bus companies like Greyhound ).
My companion and I used the city buses, the Tube, the railway, black cabs, and a Thames riverboat, as well as renting a car and driving in and around Somerset and Yorkshire. A few standout memories include the 45 minutes it took for the National Express coach driver (and several other coach staff) to figure out how to operate the beautiful brand new wheelchair lift on the coach from Heathrow to Bath - with teamwork, it finally got figured out and the commuters on the coach were quite understanding about the delay... and we got to Bath!
Another highlight was the very pleasant and helpful Great Western Rail employee who greeted us at the train station after we dropped the car off, directed us to the ticket counter, and whisked us on to the train via a ramp. That was wonderful service, and made the trip to London from York a breeze.
Figuring out the city buses in London was agonizing until we had the bright idea to just call up the phone number in the brochure we picked up. I spoke to a very helpful person who mapped our routes out for us, checked on the accessibility of the lines we needed to use, and gave us good general info on using the buses (we have the same services here, but - duh- it took a couple of days to realize we could call and get the same type of info to plan London bus routes).
The Tube was also a good option, and we used the Westminster, South Kensingon, Olympia routes at least 3 times to get around the city, (lifts always were in good working order when we were there) but had I not had an able-bodied companion to jump the "gap" I don't think I would have used it. My wheelie skills are not that good!
We stayed at the Copthorne Tara Hotel in London and the roll-in shower was all it was supposed to be. The universal remote controlling lights, doors, TV etc., was a very nice touch (never seen that in the States either). The room was small, but you can't have everything! We might try a different hotel next time, something more affordable, and perhaps a little closer to the main thouroughfare. But all in all the Copthorne Tara was certainly a place I would recommend to other wheelchair users.
We also stayed in a couple of Farm Stay B&B's (Doublegate Farm in Somerset and Elmfield House in Yorkshire) I found on the internet with the help of the Good Access guide, and they were both wonderful. Bboth had excellent bathroom facilities and accessibility, and were as charming in person as they were on the website (not always the case).
The Holiday Inn Express in Bath had one of the most compact, yet well designed bathrooms/roll-in showers I've seen.
I strongly suggest, however, that you confirm all "accessible" rooms by phone prior to booking. It is worth it to do this and make absolutely sure that there are no unhappy surprises when you show up!
I'm a hick from Arizona, have never been to New York or Chicago, so was
a little intimidated when we first landed in London. After 5 days I was
ready to stay. We even met an MP at the Houses of Parliament! We had a
wonderful trip, experienced many things we wouldn't have if we had done
the regular tour thing, and are planning the next trip there as soon as
possible. The Rick Steves guidebooks were very helpful in planning our
road trips, seeing the sights we wanted to see and avoiding problems we
didn't want to have!
Rebecca Burch
Tempe, AZ USA Mon 03/24/2003
Not in a wheelchair, but...
I have MS and am on disability retirement. I don't need a wheelchair (yet?)
but my strength and stamina are compromised, as well as my sense of balance
and coordination, but the worst symptom is weakness in my extremities meaning
I CANNOT climb stairs (more than a couple anyway).
Although I've seen far more curb cuts in the city sidewalks than I ever believed I would, I find that too many tourist-oriented places don't have any kind of elevator or escalator. This goes for hotels (especially the "historic" ones which I fancy) and museums, cathedrals, castles, palaces, etc. Of course I realize that to install elevators would completely ruin the historic atmosphere, as well as the original architecture and building materials but on the other hand since I have to skip those kind of places, I am hurt from NOT seeing them and they are hurt by not receiving my patronage.
I distinctly remember the Tube in London where I (unaware of ANY elevators)
would take sometimes a good half-hour to navigate to/from the tracks while
the locals and the able-bodied rushed around me on the stairs, making
me feel insecure to even be there. Except for making sure my lodging does
have an elevator (newer, more modern hotels) I can't even think of any
reasonable compromise. Being wheelchair-bound is NOT the only type of
handicap. Please keep this in mind when writing your book.
Litekeeper
OK USA Sat 02/22/2003
Hotels: London
Last May I went to London, Paris, and Florence with my 16 yr. old daughter
who uses a wheelchair and has Cerebral Palsey. We traveled by ourselves
(I am her 51 yr. old mother) and planned ahead. I had lived in Europe years
ago and have visited since so I was aware of some of the problems; I also
have worked with people with disabilities for 25 years. We reserved our
hotel rooms well in advance over the Internet, asking for accessible bedrooms
and bathrooms. What we got was an interesting mix.
In London, we stayed at the Travel Inn-County Hall. Although it was difficult to get into the building (you must be escorted through the back by a hotel employee), the hotel was great. You must ask for a wheel-in shower if you need one. We got a bathtub (thankfully I can still lift my daughter) and a large bathroom with fold-from-the-wall supports. The room was large with a double bed, most ammenities, including a water pot, coffee, tea, and biscuits. The view was not superb, but the convenience was fabulous. We walked across the river everyday to get where we wanted, and walked "home" from the Globe Theatre. When we needed cabs, the black cabs are all accessible (but not available from the Globe late at night). The staff of the hotel were terrific, assisting us whenever we needed and were available if I needed transfer help in the room. We will use this hotel again when we return to London.
There is a book available called Access in London which is somewhat dated
but you can order it via e-mail. I have the address if anyone wants it.
I would be happy to help anyone who needs help.
Kaye Norlin
La Salle, IL USA Sun 01/19/2003
Spain- Barcelona & Madrid- wheelchair
Great idea! I just returned from a trip to Madrid and Barcelona. Madrid
was OK but not enough curbcuts. The Museo del Prado had access for wheelchairs.
The Palacio Real also had access. We stayed at a hotel that was friendly
and included grab bars in the bathtubs and showers. We traveled from Madrid
to Barcelona by rail. What a wonderful experience!
The RENFE people were most helpful and had a ramp provided for the small step to the train. It is necessary to travel on the TALGO trains and to got "preferred" class. One can sit in their chair or use the train seats if able. The food was good and reasonably priced. They show movies and have headphones for music. I wasn't interested in the movies as I wanted to enjoy the scenery. When we arrived in Barcelona 7 hours later the men were waiting for me with the ramp.
The taxis were very helpful, never a problem. Many buses are wheelchair accessible and so is the subway although not at all stops. I was allowed in most of the museums FREE! Most of the streets have curb cuts. The only problem was restaurants as the bathrooms are located downstairs in many places.
All of the museums are accessible. We went to Parc Guell to see the magnificent sculptures of Gaudi but many of the areas are inaccessible as it is a park. I speak Spanish and I am certain that it helped but my companions do not speak the language and did OK. I did travel with someone who could help if needed.
As I was leaving Barcelona I was told that they are trying their best
to make the city accessible to all. I did prefer Barcelona to Madrid.
Give travel a try and it will be quite rewarding.
Elsie Gonzalez
Cleveland, OH USA Tue 01/14/2003
accessible europe
A great book that covers accessible travel is Barrier Free Travel: A
Nuts And Bolts Guide For Wheelers And Slow Walkers at www.EmergingHorizons.com/book
Also see their home page at www.EmergingHorizons.com. They have a great
database of links and somebody actually looks at them and updates them
fairly regular. The links are free, but they also have a very good magazine
for a reasonable subscription.
Lisa Montrose
Boston, MA USA Sat 01/04/2003
Ibis Hotels
While they are hard to find in the cities mentioned, disabled travelers
in the countryside in France can stay at Ibis hotels with fairly good success.
I have stayed in a couple of Ibis hotels and while they have Super-8 charm,
they have good elevators and no stairs on the propery. The bathrooms might
be hard to use, as they don't have the rails in disabled restrooms in the
US, but one can at least get from the car to the bed in the room with ease.
Dylan Normington
Tempe, AZ USA Mon 12/30/2002