New Back Doors: 2006
Europe still holds Back Door destinations — off-beat nooks and crannies that are short on crowds and long on culture. Or an activity can be a Back Door: a festival no tourist seems to know about, a sporting event you can join, a local language class. What's your best Back Door discovery or experience?
Caceras, Spain
If you're in Spain, get off the beaten path and head for Caceras in the Extremadura region. It has possibly one of the most beautiful unspoiled medieval centers of any city I've been in. The town Plaza Major is huge with lots to do (including shops located on twisty dark streets running off the plaza), and then the medieval center sits directly off of it. Instead of crowding it with touristy things, the town has wisely left it alone. This means you can wander through the beautiful medieval streets in virtual solitude and peace. If you want to see my pictures of it, go to http://picasaweb.google.com/Mardee/TripToSpain - the pics of Caceras are labeled as such.
Mardee
Cincinnati, OH USA Sun 12/31/2006
Gorlitz Germany
Recently visited Gorlitz in former East Germany.Wonderful historic area not affected by WWII.Walked across river bridge to Poland. My wife found a Christmas shop & brought many "bargains". Short train ride from Dresden and quite an adventure.
Richard
Meridian, MS USA Tue 12/19/2006
Battle, England
Battle, England is the place where the Battle of Hastings took place. It's a wonderful town with the Abbey Museum and the battle site, a town museum which includes the largest collection of Dodo bird stuff I know of anywhere, and several beautiful walks. There's a gorgeous, charming English garden right next to the town museum. We had a wonderful stay at the Acacia House B&B where we had a beautiful room and magnificent traditional English breakfasts that kept us on our feet all day. The owner of Acacia House also runs the fine Touch of Battle restaurant and gift shop next to the Abbey gate. We also enjoyed eating at the 1066 Pub--very American-friendly with a beautiful garden dining area in addition to the indoor dining. If you're staying right in town, you'll want to get a room at the back, away from the street noise. There was no street noise at Acacia House, however, but it's a short walk from town, close to the rail station--from town you can take a shortcut across the abbey grounds. The TI is at the Abbey museum, the staff are very helpful. There's a bus from in front of the Abbey on weekends that goes to Herstmonceaux Castle and science center. It's also easy to get to Bodiam Castle from Battle, a beautifully restored 13th century castle. A few minutes away by train are Pevensey castle, a fortification dating from Roman times (note-closed Sundays), and Battle is a good base from which to see Hastings Castle, since the town of Hastings is pretty scrungy itself, Battle is a much nicer place to stay. We spent four days in Battle in September and had a wonderful time, we could have spent over a week without running out of things to do.
Mark Graybill <email>
Colfax, CA USA Thu 11/09/2006
Serbia
Some time back I posted comments about Sebia and I think it's worthwhile to mention it here again.
Serbia is still enduring some U.N. sanctions, and the tourist economy there is quite small. But this makes it a great back door. The people are very welcoming of foreigners, including Americans. The countryside can be quite beautiful, historic sites, especially monasteries, are remarkable and the dollar is still fairly strong. While many in Serbia accept payment in euros, the exchange rate from dollars to dinars is better, and prices for things are generally quite low. Many still live on farms, and farm-fresh produce is in every street market and restaurant.
There are folk festivals everywhere during the year, and the club scene is quite active in large and small cities.
Jane Reed <email>
Los Angeles, Calif. USA Wed 10/11/2006
Wallonia, Belgium
We spent 10 days in Belgium in July, including a week in the southwest region of Wallonia and a few days in Brussels. I definitely recommend the rural Gite du Rond Chene, just outside of Namur. This is a great little cottage beside the beautiful chateau. The owners were very hospitable and speak English well. They have done an excellent job renovating the property and buildings. They even let us use their swimming pool when the weather was hot and their family bicycles for a ride through the country. We used public transportation instead of renting a car and were able to access many local places, including the citadel, the gardens at Annevoie, and a boat tour with the locals from Dinant to Givet. The only thing I would not repeat was our day in Liege, since almost all the museums were closed for rennovation. This was a very relaxing getaway and definitely off the beaten path for American tourists.
Holly
Kirkland, WA USA Mon 10/09/2006
Namur Belgium
Namur, Belgium was a suprise for us. The remains of the Citadel built in the early 1300's was a great little hike, not crowded with tourists, good signage and plenty of fabulous views.Those not ready to hike can also drive up. Its and easy drive from Brussels or go by train. The town may not be as cute as Brugge but it also has that authentic feel with a variety of old buildings and lots of paths to ramble
ellenlicina <email>
Brussels, 1000 Belgium Sun 09/10/2006
Best Roeddelbahn (Alpine slide)
As Rick mentions in his book, the roeddelbahns are great fun especially if you take your kids--or even your mother-in-law. We did his recommended slide outside of Salzburg, and had another one scheduled on our way to Neuschwanstein. After a day in Hall and Innsbruk we stayed overnight at a wonderful Pension near Obsteig. As I was checking out the next morning, I mentioned to the Gastgaeber that I had a couple of disappointed kids because it was raining slightly, and the Roeddelbahn would be closed. He said to do the one in Imst. because you can go on it in the rain. I didn't know how that could be, but we followed his recommendation and found the best slide: 3.5 km long and they seatbelt you in. Check it out: alpine-coaster.at. As I was leaving the top on my first ride, I asked the attendant if you had to follow the posted signs and brake at the corners. He simply responded, "The car can't come off the track."
David Christernsen <email>
Burley, ID USA Tue 08/22/2006
Reading people's web reports of their trips to England (thanks, for sharing your experinces, folks, its great to see what you think of us!) I often read "we did what the guide says and drove on the M-ways as quickly as possible past the Industrial Midlands". It is as if most books are fixated on a very outdated idea of a part of England covered in smoky factories, and are not actually sure where these factories were anyway. In fact, most big industry is long gone, and the places that were at the heart of the Industrial Revolution now have many exciting and interesting museums and mills to visit to explain how it all happened, in cities that are fun and interesting to visit.
I'm sure other contributors who have dared to be different will agree with me that places like Bakewell, Hathersage, Lichfield, Chatsworth, Sherwood Forest, the majority of the English Canals and planty of other places are well worth a visit - and these are all in the Midlands!
Also, some guidebooks say that Manchester and Sheffield are in the Midlands ! This is not true (Lancashire and Yorkshire are in the North of England). And both cities are well worth visiting.
Anyone who wants to know more about the Peak District, the English canals, Manchester, or Yorkshire, just ask.
Chris Jones <email>
Sheffield, Yorks USA Fri 08/18/2006
National Theatre London/Watch This Space
The National Theatre London offers free outdoor events on various evenings from July 7 - September 2. I enjoyed sitting by the river and listening to some great jazz. My eleven year old son was also there and enjoyed the music for a bit but soon made friends to play with. It was great fun for both of us and free.
Lisa McMahan <email>
Rutherfordton, NC USA Sat 08/12/2006
Schleswig Holstein
I was curious about the Baltic Sea coast, so I went to Luebeck and Travemunde in Germany and spent a week exploring Schleswig Holstein. I was toally delighted by the beauty of the Baltic Sea, which was a sparkling navy blue and very clean, and by the ambience of the area, which was very cheerful and welcoming. The Travemunde Tourism offeice sent me reams of helpful information including accommodations, and I chose the Wasserfahrschul Schott, which is a Sailing School and gastehause. It couldn't have been more pleasant. There are lots of things to do, it is very easy to take the ferry into Denmark for the day, which we did, and local trains, busses and boats connect to the city of Lubeck, and from there to Hamburg(one hour), quite frequently.It is a lovely area, with dramatic coastal cliffs and rolling fields of bright yellow rapeseed, forests, lakes, and little villages with a Scandinavian flavor. The people I met were all very, very friendly, if somewhat surprised to see a single American lady with dachshund come to visit ( you know you have found a new back door when the locals ask you quizzically,"Why did you come here??"). Travemunde is a charming little seaside resort filled with great cafes and hotels, shops and things to do. Lubeck is a beautiful old city itself, and well worth a visit.
Karen <email>
Chicago, IL USA Thu 08/10/2006
Barging on a canal
Taking a barge cruise at a comfortable pace down a scenic canal in France is a lovely way to go and doesn't have to be expensive. You may have seen sites that advertise cruises for 4-to-20 or so people, depending on the size of the barge, that cost $1000 or more per person for the week, but there are modest and more intimate cruises available and you can even shop the little (and larger) town markets along the way (our cruise is from Toul to Strasbourg) and do your own cooking on the barge, if you like, or eat in restaurants. And there's a crew, so you don't have to be responsible for the barge! To see photos and get itineraries of the barge we like, go to http://www.johannacharters.com/ and take a look. If you google "canal cruises France" you can find some, too, though many are the expensive ones. I'll post some photos when I'm back.
Karen <email>
Austin, TX USA Mon 08/07/2006
Exeter
I'd like to second some of Gail's remarks on Exeter. I lived there for three years at different times. (1987-8, 1993-4, and 1999-2000) Hints: Get your picnic supplies in the Sa*******y's in the Guildhall Shopping Center. Great quality and selection on sandwiches, other things. They have fresh fruit in packages. Also Devon scones; these are sweeter than the usual ones; get a small pot of double cream (or clotted cream if you can locate it), a small jar of jam - my favorite is either raspberry or strawberry, and have your very own cream tea at fractions of the price in a tea shop. Visit the Royal Albert Museum. Take a day trip to Exmouth for the beach and good pubs. Also Topsham, which you can get to on the city minibuses, or by train. There is a great used book shop there - I've forgotten the name. Visit the University grounds - there's a fantastic arboretum, including some California redwoods. Note that Exeter has palm trees in some sheltered places. Outside the city centre, which is pedestrianised except for the minibuses and the occasional taxi, it is pretty vertical. They are redoing one of the shopping centres (Princesshay) in the centre of town, and that was a wreck last November. Maybe it's done now? I love the place, and will be back this November.
Hilarious add-on. They start marking down things at Sainsbury's around 3 PM. You'll find a clerk going around putting reduced orange price stickers on things like sandwiches and other items. So - one day in early 2000, I went down to Sainsbury's around that time, and came back with the following dinner for two: 1)Prawn (shrimp) cocktails on avocados. The prawn cocktails had been marked down to 55p from 1.35, and were on BOGOFF. The avocados were also on a BOGOFF (BOGOFF = buy one, get one free) but had also been marked down to 30 p each from 75p. (more on that one later.) 2)Fresh unshelled peas from a cart where they were offloading produce. 30p. 3)Two trout. These were also a BOGOFF, but had just been marked down from 1.99 each to 70 p. 4)Two canteloupes (BOGOFF) marked down from 95 to 40 p. 5) a 500g package of wild rice for 65 p. They were discontinuing selling it at the Guildhall, so they were really trying to get rid of it. (Well - they got rid of it all right then - I cleared them out. Am still working on some of it 6 years later.)
OK - that looks like 2.90 GBP (assuming that we would consume over a pund of wild rice at one sitting.?!!) Not bad for a meal like that one.
However------it turns out that when something was marked as a BOGOFF, what happened at the cashier's scanner was that the marked down price was what went in (twice), and then the original price was subtracted. So, what I actually paid for this dinner was -19p. Yes - that negative sign is correct. They actually paid ME 19 p to take it away! I'm sure that that computer glitch has now been fixed, but it was hilarious at the time. And you can bet that I kept looking for this sort of thing for the remaining 5 months I was in Exeter. I think I got one other free meal later.
I'm still laughing about that one, and I hope that anyone who reads this will also. It was so funny that I kept the sales slip and put it into my computer, which is why I still have it.
ERT <email>
Denver, CO USA Sun 08/06/2006
Aosta, Italy
Aosta was our resting place after riding the tram over the alps from Chamonix, Fr into Italy. We walked from the train station to the TI for help with accomodations. We found a marvelous small hotel with luxurious and inexpensive rooms available for the night, which was located on a town square full of wonderful little shops and restaurants,behind which were amazing Roman ruins which are currently being excavated and restored. Comfort, convenience, culture, and history... all in one place. There wasn't a tourist in sight (besides us) and everyone was warm, kind, and helpful. We loved it and were sorry we only had the one night there. It's an exceptional all-purpose back door.
Karen Johnson
Maui, HI USA Fri 08/04/2006
Exeter, England
Last year, I had never even heard of Exeter, England (a city about 3 hours southwest of London). Then, several months ago, we had the pleasure of moving here! I am amazed that it isn't a city of choice for many travelers--especially Roman History buffs! The city was settled in 55AD and though it suffered extensive damage from the Blitz, 72% of the city wall still exists! The city is absolutely amazing. What's more, there are 3 city tours each day (total of about 15 during the week!) sponsored by the city council's "Red Coat Tours" to help unlock the mysteries of the city and take you behind locked doors that only they can take you through. Oh yeah, did I mention these 1 1/2 hour walking tours are FREE!! And I don't mean they linger around with their hand open expecting a tip! Everything is so concise and layed out if you take advantage of seeing the city with these volunteer tour guides. --**Note to Rick, has your staff investigated Exeter for a future show? 'better get 'em started!
Gail <email>
Exeter by way of America!, USA Wed 08/02/2006
Fussen, Germany
I don’t even remember how we ended up in Fussen, but this small Bavarian city is very much so a back door to Europe. It is not far from Munich, and there are not very many tourists, therefore accommodation is not hard to find. You can visit King Ludwig’s castle, and there are great pubs and restaurants. You can also see the Alps from Fussen and the train ride to and from is beautiful. And if you do make it to Munich, make sure you have a pint for me at the Hofbraeuhaus, you will never forget it.
George C <email>
Toronto, Ontari Canada Sun 07/30/2006
Montenegro Coast
I spent a fabulous ten days in Ulcinj Montenegro on the Adriatic. My fiance who is a Kosovar Albanian took me there this June for a vacation. The "Long Beach" is several kilometers long with several small "resorts" on them, The "Small beach" located in the small harbor in the city center gets most of the crowds. While there are some small hotels, most vacationers rent rooms from locals. Look for signs that read "Dhome" or "Sobe" outside of homes that indicate rooms available. We stayed in a nice home opposite the long beach for $6 euro/night. Our place had a shared bathroom with other guests, but it was large and always kept clean. We had TV and refrigerator. There was also an outdoor patio shaded with live grape vines. In the patio there was a stove, dishes and tables for when we wanted to cook own meals and enjoy the warms evenings. This time of year there's an abundance of fresh produce. Nearly everyone has their own garden. We purchased excellent fresh fruits and vegetables at a neighborhood fruit stand. Our breakfast usually consisted of fruit, drinkable yogurt and bureks(pastries either stuffed with cheese or meat). For local transporation, there are mini-buses and taxis everywhere. The mini-buses are the cheapest but crowded. There are plenty of restaurants and coffee bars in old town Ulcinj headed to the waterfront.
Pizza's and/or Qebaps(small spicy sausages)served with fresh bread are cheap, fast and delicious and typically cost less than $5 euro. There are several upscale eateries located on the hillside of old stone castle overlooking the city and the harbor. While they are pricer and offer a larger menu, I opted for a couple of cold local beers and some the best grilled calamari I've ever had. While we didn't experience any of the club scene there, in the evenings, we could hear the low booming bass letting us know their presence downtown. Coffee bars serving Machiatto's and cappacino's typically cost about $1 euro for a large(e madhe), less for a small(e vogel). Find a strategically placed table near the water, enjoy the great coffee and views, especially the incredibly beautiful two legged type.
Judging from the license plates of the cars there, most vacationers were from Serbia or Kosovo, however I saw plates from other EU countries as well. We arrived via bus from Pristine Kosovo, which incidentally took us through some incredible mountains with what looked like extremely inviting trout waters(yes I'm a fisherman). There was a tremendous amount of tunnel building and road construction going on which is an indication that the newly independent Montenegro is on the cusp of making it easier to access their beautiful coastline. I admit I didn't do much sightseeing, preferring to spend most of my days sunbathing at the beach. I'll save that for my next trip back.
Tony <email>
Long Beach, CA USA Tue 07/18/2006
Alternate back door
While it's not exactly "new," I wanted to take this opportunity to recommend Bacharach as a great backdoor stop in Germany. Rick in his books and shows praises Rothenburg, and I enjoyed it immensely. But as Rick himself points out, it's become a bit touristy lately, partly because of Rick's own enthusiastic endorsements as he admits. While I loved Rothenburg, it never felt intimate to me, even though we went off tourist season and there weren't big crods. Bacharach, however, was the perfect little half-forgotten town. We spent one day there, toured the town, talked with very friendly locals, and had a delicious venison dinner in a small inn run by this elderly couple. It almost felt like we were in someone's home and they were cooking just for us. We stayed in a hotel that's right inside one of the castle walls (lots of steps!) and the next day we were gone--sadly, too soon.
Most memorable, however, was simply walking around the town. We didn't see anything spectacular or unusual, and that's what made the evening so memorable. I got the impression nothing I saw was tailored to tourists--it was just how they lived. That made it all the more special to me. Wandering through this serene, picturesque town, I envied people who could keep their doors open day and night, probably knew little in the way of crime, were well-acquainted with all their neighbors, and lived a comfortable life where, alas, bigger wasn't better, and the concept of keeping up with the Joneses was probably as alien as a Starbucks.
Anyway, for those contemplating Rothenburg, I just wanted to get in a healthy plug for Bacharach. I just hope this lovely town now doesn't become too overrun!
John <email>
Oakland, CA USA Mon 07/10/2006
Malta
Hi!
My sister and I spent ten days in Malta last September. WOW! Older monuments than Stonehenge, gorgeous harbors and coastline, some great Italianate cathedrals, fireworks at town festas, cute/fast/ubiquitous buses, really friendly locals. For the language-challenged, Malta is even a country of almost 100% English-speakers (as a second language). Convenient to Sicily, and even Tunisia. A near lack of beaches, and a need to research places to eat if you want to find the good stuff, are about the only downsides. Ten days didn't exhaust all we wanted to see.
Specifics: Spend plenty of time on little Gozo and plenty of time wandering around Valletta. On Malta proper, find a place to stay in Sliema and take the water-ferry to Valletta for sightseeing. The Gozitan town of Victoria, the Ggantiya and Hagar Qim/Mnajdra prehistoric sites, the Co-Cathedral and War Museum in Valletta, and the great domed churches in Mosta and Xewkija, are all super.
Dining recommendations: Cafe Cordina in Valletta, Gattopardi's in Mdina, Cafe Jubilee in Valletta or Victoria, Il-Kartell in Marsalforn, Cittadella Restaurant in Victoria.
It's easy to spend a day in Sicily (Taormina/Etna tours book from the harbor), but tougher to get to Tunisia, which takes a couple of days.
Malta is the coolest nation in Europe that's never been on a Rick Steves' TV show!
Mark <email>
Seattle, WA USA Sun 06/11/2006
Krakow Bike Tour
Go to Krakow. The Polish people are very friendly - the city is beautiful - and though the city and the people have been through some rough times - their warm culture prevails. Take a bike tour - Krakow Bike Tours - http://www.krakowbiketour.com/bike.html - the tourguide John takes great pride in running his own business and really has a great feel for the history and conveys it very well to his riders - you might learn something!
Leigh <email>
Charlotte, NC USA Sat 05/20/2006
Finding Backdoors in Bavaria
A group of us (students) were headed to Fussen for the weekend to check out King Ludwig´s famous (albeit touristy) castles. I did some research ahead of time and found a wine festival in a small village called Wiessensee, which turned out to be the highlight of our trip! We were the only Americans there, and were able to interact with locals as we listened to traditional Bavarian folk music. We watched and later participated in dancing, although we were nearly the only people there not dressed in traditional clothing. My recommendation is to look up the German city´s official website by putting ´´.de´´ after the city name (for example: fuessen.de or stuttgart.de). If you can read a little bit of German, you´re likely to find some great opportunities to interact with locals.
Mindy <email>
Ohio USA Mon 05/08/2006
Vilnius!
Go now! Vilnius, the gorgeous little Baroque capital of Lithuania, currently offers the best of both worlds: Old World charm, unobtrussive but effective tourist infrastructure, enough English speakers to get by, and few stampedes of foreign tourists. Maybe the best comparison is a smaller Prague 10 years ago, before the onslaught of the tourist crowds and souvenir shops. Go now, this balance can't last much longer!
Tom <email>
Philadelphia, PA USA Mon 05/08/2006
Small village in Wales
Betys-y-coed Wales is a wonderful LITTLE spot in the Snowdonia area of Wales. The village is lovely and there are quite a few good B&Bs. The food was sscrumptious- so fresh. We walked for miles around the small "river"- we'd call them streams or creeks"- and saw so many waterfalls that I was almost satsified- I can never get enough waterfalls. Sunsets were beautiful and the atmosphere was one of true peace and quiet. The local sheep were an added "bonus". It's right on the main train line and easy to get to.
Toni Yates
Charlotte, NC USA Thu 03/30/2006
Iceland- There's moss on the ground and it's bouncy it makes you feel like a little kid again! Your kids will like it! What I recommend to bring are a coat NO MATTER WHAT TIME OF THE YEAR YOU ARE GOING IT IS ALWAYS 40 DEGREES, bring an entertaining device (iPod, portable DVD, GameBoy, DS, PSP, cellphone, laptop, portable AIM, etc.). I really liked it. Don't turn down your chance to go and they've got nice music on the planes. VISIT THE BLUE LAGOON!!! Eat at TGI Fridays. Planes (Icelandair) are cheap tickets but on the mainland things are usually pretty expensive. Also, when you land it looks like you'll go into the water. Don't be freaked out because that's what I thought but the airport is right on the coast. When the plane is about 10 feet from the water, you can't even see land but the pilots know what they're doing!!! Here are two things that you should visit: First things first, visit the place where the vikings made the first official government. It has a good view. There are also pretty cliffs with lighthouses. Chuck some rocks into the ocean to relieve a little stress, people! Now, I would like to recommend the Pearl in Rekjavik. It spins around.
USA Wed 02/22/2006
AGATHA CHRISTIE in TORQUAY, DEVON
If you are any kind of Agatha Christie fan at all - get yourself to Torquay in Devon, England!
We spent four nights in Torquay as our base at the wonderful (and affordable) Westbrook Hotel (B&B) on Belgrave Road in Torquay. 40 pounds (low season) for a twin/ensuite that would have gone for 100 pounds in London. Great service, value, and location. And, Maureen, the owner even puts some Agatha Christie paperbacks in your room as a bonus.
Torquay was Agatha's birthplace and hometown. Her family lived there for decades. Torquay was for years, the jewel of the English Riviera. Everyone and anyone, including British royalty and foreign kings came to Torquay in its heyday. Issac Singer built his mansion nearby. Torquay even has links to the Spanish Armada and the Napoleonic wars. Agatha's family knew Rudyard Kipling and Henry James and had them to dinner.
There is a self-guided walking tour pamplet available at the Tourist Office (ask!) in the marina that will guide you to over a dozen+ important Christie sights within a short walk of each other.
You will see her life there unfold before your eyes as you take in the important sites in her life. It's all still there, with the exception of 'Ashfield,' her family home that was torn down in 1961. We still went up to Barton Road and saw the spot where it was and the nearby Cricket Ground (still there and untouristed)that her father was President of. The Oak Tree on the Cricket Ground that Agatha sat under in 1901 keeping score for her father (one of her favorite memories) is STILL there. You will find this again and again in Torquay. Important Christie sites with few/no tourists, just you and Agatha's life in Torquay. Bliss!
In seeing these places in her life, you will see where her inspiration came from for book titles, story locations, and characters. Many of her novels have multiple locations in and around Torbay. Her heart and 'mindset' were in Torquay and that's where her creativity came out of. Simply put, the town Torquay and area of Torbay have never fully mined the potential of their favorite daughter and the world's (still) best-selling author. It is still under-touristed, aging-Victorian, and mainly undisturbed, and all still there. I can't encourage you enough to visit Agatha Christie's true home town. It's mecca for her fans. Go..GO!!
Jennifer
Seattle, WA USA Sat 02/11/2006
Cotes D'Armor
I can definitely recommend the Cotes D'Armor department in Brittany. The coastal road between Sables D'or and Cap Frehel is one of the must do drives in France. Great seafood, azure blue sea, pink rocks and heather dappled headlands. Beaches are unbeatable. Loads of space even in high summer season.
Subtle <email>
Hong Kong, Hong Kong Thu 02/02/2006
Dalarna Sweden
A fantastic area that usually only gets a page or two in guidebooks on Sweden is the Dalarna area near Lake Siljan. This area is truly fascinating. It is the traditional folkloric area of Sweden with the red painted houses you see in pictures of Swedish countryside. It is the area that is home to the artist Carl Larsson whose home is a great place to visit. There are many B&B's and small hotels in the towns of Leksand, Rattvik, Mora, Tallberg, and Orsa. The traditional wooden Dala horses are made in Nusnas, you can watch them being made in the workshops. There is a traditional Midsummer celebration in the villages around Lake Siljan in June. I think Rick should include this area in future books. It is about three hours by train from Stockholm,but I think it is best enjoyed by car to see all the villages and drive around the lake area. This would also be a great area for camping in the summer.There are also cabins in area available to rent. Be sure to try some waffles with cream and cloudberry jam when in the area. The website for the area is www.siljan.se
Ellen R
WI USA Mon 01/09/2006