Edinburgh B&B
My sister and I spent some time in Edinburgh last May and stayed in a wonderful B&B called Joppa Turrets Guest House. It's not in Rick's book, but I would highly recommend it. The rooms are spotless, with all amenities. Breakfasts were delicious,and the breakfast room was elegantly appointed. The owner, Felicity, was very helpful and always made feel us completely at home. The icing on the cake was the beautiful view of the Firth of Forth that greeted us every morning. Their website is www.joppaturrets.demon.co.uk
Shelly
  Canada   Wed 05/25/2005

Southeast?
Recently purchased 2005 guide book; was very disappointed to not find Canterbury, Salisbury, and places like Dover and Deal. There are some interesting castles, forts, cathedrals etc.in this area that we are planning to see as part of our trip this June. Also some interesting sounding cycling paths that I was hoping you might have information on. Obviously I can find another guide book, but I am annoyed that there is no mention on the cover, or elswhere, that there is absolutely no mention of this region at all.
Susan <email>
  Canada   Sat 05/21/2005

Airden House price update
Update on the Airden House B&B in York. The rates for a double room with bath have gone up from the 56 GBP per night listed in the book to 60-62 GBP per night. They will discount that to 56 GBP for 3 night stay plus the 'Rick Steves' reference. Rates went up in April for inflation and room improvements.
Dale Harmon <email>
Fairfield, OH   USA   Wed 05/18/2005

training
Be careful while taking the train from Chester to Holyhead, Wales and needing to stop along the way. We were given a printed intinerary from a station master that listed a stop at Conwy, Wales,and the train did not stop at Conwy. We had to go on to Bangor and return.
howard scott <email>
Irvine, CA   USA   Sat 05/14/2005

Skimpy Coverage
I've learned so much from the PBS shows and from the Graffiti Walls on this site. I buy RS products and sing their praises. I know I've been responsible for some sales, because of that! I loved reading some of the general guidebooks like "Postcards" and "Europe through the Back Door."

When I first started traveling to the UK I avoided the RS books, however, because at that time they were still geared to "7 countries in 17 days," which wasn't my style of travel.

I've heard terrific things about the RS and believe they're true, as long as you're going where Rick went in the current crop of shows. But I regret to say I found the Great Britain book very lacking. When I opened it and looked for Salisbury and Winchester, and neither were there -- I finally realized that the book evidently only addresses the locations Rick has in his current series. While those particular sites might be well-covered in the book, the fact that the majority of Great Britain isn't even mentioned left me dissatisfied with the book overall.
Patricia Burroughs <email>
Dallas, TX   USA   Fri 04/22/2005

2 Star in London
We just returned from a wonderful visit to London and the Cotswolds. Your guide books are fantastic, they helped us along the way in both the UK and Paris. Thank you! I had one "heads up"...though 2 star hotels can be clean, we came across one that was scary-linens were clean but plumbing was really nasty (toilet) and the cockroaches were busy and huge in this London 200 year old house!! So be cautious! We were too trusting.
Beth Egelhofer <email>
Felton, CA   USA   Mon 04/04/2005

Bus tour typo (London to Bath)
Found a typo-- page 161 of the 2005 edition refers you to page 160 for the bus tour from london to bath, when it should refer you to page 122 in the London chapter.
Ann <email>
Atlanta, GA   USA   Sat 04/02/2005

Brock's Guest House - Bath - fantastic!
My wife and I stayed at Brock's Guest House in Bath a year ago, and I've taken way too long to post my plaudits. Marion Dodd, the host, is friendly and fantastic - we had a terrific chat with her about living and growing up in England after World War II. We got from Marion the kind of first-person perspective that tourists often never get on their travels - the kind of perspective that makes traveling so worthwhile. Our room was as cozy and charming as one could ask for, and the breakfast may have been the best meal we've had in England. I know I'm 'preaching to the choir' because Rick has profiled Brock's in one of his videos, but it's still worth crowing about. (One very important note: if you're arriving in Bath with luggage and/or tired legs, take a cab to Brock's. It's a bit of an uphill hike from the train station to the guest house. My wife and I haven't used cabs much during our stays in England due to the cost - that time we were glad we did!)
Craig Dandurand
Sacramento, CA   USA   Sun 03/27/2005

Catch a football match!
One terrific way to experience life as a local in the UK is to see a soccer (er, football) match. My wife and I enjoyed a York City Football Club game during a recent trip (and I can almost guarantee that other than one of the players, we were the only Americans in the stadium!). It was cold and snowy, but most of the York City stadium has a roof over the seats (this is true for most stadiums in the UK), so we didn't get wet. Tickets cost about 15GBP apiece (a LOT more if you go to see a top-level club like Arsenal, Chelsea or Manchester United - assuming you can get tickets at all!), and smaller clubs like York City are often locally-owned (in York's case, a "supporter's trust" owns the team - essentially a fan club that runs the whole operation). The fans are spirited but by no means dangerous - don't let the "hooligan" talk scare you. (Most of the fans around us were older 'locals' who've gone to games for years - it had the feel of an American high-school football game.) Many stadiums are close to or in the center of town - York City's 'ground' was a five-minute walk from our B&B. And, in our case, it was a terrific way to get over jet lag, as we'd arrived in England the morning of the match. The football season runs from August to May, so it's not during peak tourist season, but if you find yourself near a stadium on game day and you have the time, give it a go!
Craig Dandurand
Sacramento, CA   USA   Sun 03/27/2005

"Grand Tour"
My boyfriend and I did the "Grand Tour", as the Brits called it, went all the way up to York, Edniburgh, then came back down to Stratford-upon-avon, Oxford and then to London. Wow, the recommendations for places to stay were wonderful! I especially recommend The Priestville B&B in Edinburgh (run by Colin and Trina Warwick) and The Salamander in Stratford-upon-Avon run by Pascal. Both proprieters were great hosts. Very well organized, very enthusiastic and ready to recommend and give guidance. It was a fabulous trip and we hope to go back someday! The lesser known sites in York and Oxford were great! Thank you for the help and suggestions!~Christine Luth
Christine Luth <email>
Arlington, VA   USA   Mon 03/21/2005

Edinburgh Lodging -- Aonach Mor
My husband and I recently spent three very enjoyable days in Edinburgh. We stayed at the Aonach Mor Guest House and were very happy. It was clean and bright, and very tastefully decorated. (Not dark and dusty and over-done, like some places can be!) Delicious breakfast. We would love to go back, and highly recommend the Aonach Mor Guest House to our friends. Excellent value!
Dana
Sacramento, CA   USA   Tue 02/15/2005

Highland Game website correction for 3 weeks in Scotland, England
The website that lists Highland Games is more specifically www.incallander.co.uk/whatson.htm. The site I initially gave will take you to the homepage for the Callander area, where you would simply need to click on What's on and Songs. I hope this is helpful.
Sandy Bartz <email>
Loveland, Co   USA   Mon 02/14/2005

3 weeks in Scotland, England
Last June we traveled in England and Scotland and I wanted to give some input on things we found useful and especially enjoyed. By the way, we made all B&B reservations 2-3 months in advance. If we had waited any longer, we would not have gotten the B&B and rooms we desired.

Favorite B&B's:
Our favorite Rick Steve's B&B was Ashcroft Guest House in Haltwhistle. Geoff and Christine were extremely helpful and gracious. The house and our room were lovely, spacious and had a gorgeous view of the gardens. I wish we had scheduled 2 nights there instead of one. (Other greats: Dunedin in Edinburgh and Fairview Farmhouse outside Stow-on-the-Wold.)

As we wanted to stray from the suggested route in Scotland I used the Smooth Hound site and we were happy with about 70% of them.

We loved our stay at Rowan House in Kingussie (www.RowanHouseScotland.com), somewhat off of the main tourist path in the Highlands. We stayed in the suite, which enabled us to spread out, relax and enjoy the beautiful highland view. Susan was extremely nice and directed us to a small, clean Laundromat in Kingussie.

"36 The Mall" (www.36themall.co.uk) in Montrose, Scotland was great. The room was spacious, spotless and contained every amenity. And you could not ask for better true Scottish hospitality. We also had a great casual, non-smoking, meal there at Roo's.

Enjoyable Places to visit:
We wanted to attend a highland games and found the most useful information at www.incallander.co.uk. We attended the Drumtochy Highland games in Auchenblae (forested countryside west of Montrose) and found it to be one our most memorable days.

My favorite gardens of the whole trip were at Crathes Castle, northwest of Montrose. We also had very enjoyable tours of Glamis Castle and Stirling Castle. In Edinburgh we enjoyed a tour called Mary King's Close right on the Royal Mile. It goes underground and the tour guide humorously & dramatically tells about those who would have lived along that street (close) years ago.

Other input:
As we flew in and out of Manchester, it would have been good to have a recommended place to stay near the airport. The B&B we stayed at made us ready to return home. We enjoy castles, stately homes and gardens and found the British Heritage Pass worthwhile (just get it at the Tourist Info center at the airport on arrival).

I used the Rick Steves books and graffiti wall input and found it tremendously useful. One thing I noted in Great Britain is that, at least outside of the cities, dress was fairly casual and I was glad to have brought my New Balance walking shoes and jeans. But t-shirts and sweatshirts do shout out "American".

Driving:
If you are driving, buy a detailed map (such as Ordinance Survey, 3 miles to 1 inch) ASAP. My husband loved the driving and the back roads are wonderful, especially in the Cotswolds and anywhere in Scotland. We survived the first day (before buying a good map) by printing out some AA maps from the internet.

Overall, there is so much we did not see that we would love to return.
Sandy Bartz <email>
Loveland, CO   USA   Sun 02/13/2005

Bed and Breakfasts,Bath, England
I want to recommend the Radnor Guest House in Bath, England,The Hosts where so friendly and helpful and the rooms where all ensuite very clean and great beds. The prices very reasonable,when I was there in Nov,2004 they didn't take credit cards, I'm not sure if this has changed! Rick I hope you go and see for youself. www.radnorguesthouse.co.uk
Barbara Ferg <email>
Fox Island, Wa.   USA   Wed 01/26/2005

Henry House in Bath
The Henry House is fabulous!! Great location (literally 2 blocks from the train station and in the city center, no hills to climb to get there), amazingly helpful and friendly owners (Sue and Derek), great breakfast (very accomidating, as much as you can eat), comfortable rooms, and fantastic price (22 pounds per person!!!)and for Australian travelers, they have vegimite.

We originally planed on spending 2 nights in Bath, but because we were having such a wonderful time and had found such a great place to stay we decided to extend it to 3.also, the Bath glass factory is worth the visit.
Colleen and Ed <email>
  USA   Sat 01/15/2005

Fabulous B&B Near Wells
We stayed at The Manor Farm in East Horrington (just outside of Wells) when we did the Glastonbury/Avesbury/Wells trip, and found that it was probably one of the most wonderful "Backdoor" experiences we've ever had while travelling through Europe. The proprietess, Ms. Fiona Fridd, and her family welcomed us with open arms to their 14th century restored manor house, and showed us a true taste of English country life. Our room, over what used to be the barn, was delightful, and Ms. Fridd arranged for us to have dinner at a local coaching house that was populated by locals serving game brought in daily by the hunters from the surrounding countryside. She warned us about the huge portions (thank goodness!), and told us we should save room for our "pudding," which was not to be missed. We were grateful, as she was absolutely correct!

We spent our evening playing billiards and darts in her game room, and enjoyed access to her home, and in the morning, had a fresh-cooked breakfast including homemade bread and jams, before departing. I can't imagine finding a nicer place to stay anywhere... She was also a wealth of knowledge regarding the local sights and surrounding countryside, and also the history of her home and community, and she made us feel like visiting relatives rather than paying guests. We could not have been more pleased.
Gay Walker <email>
San Diego, CA   USA   Wed 01/12/2005

With regard to Nick Vogel's comment on booking at Tree Tops in Moreton in Marsh (1/3/04): Chris and I stayed there for two weeks last summer (GREAT experience in every way) and having previously noted Nick's comment, I asked Liz about it. She said that this was not the case. Rather, she follows a TWO night rule on the weekends. This is because people frequently gather there for weddings and other such events in the neighborhood and someone booking only a single night might then leave that room unoccupied for a night. In the interest of good business practice, this makes sense. But she was emphatic: there is no 3-night rule. One other comment: the rooms at TT are the largest we've ever enjoyed in the UK. Very comfortable and the breakfasts are varied and delicious. Excellent place---and the resident livestock makes every meal an adventure.
k-b
Seattle,    USA   Tue 01/11/2005

Herefordshire - Marches Tours and Talks
We used and liked the Great Britain guidebook. However, we also explored Herefordshire, including the beautiful Hereford Cathedral with the 13th century Mappa Mundi and Chained Library.

Available through http://www.marchestourstalks.co.uk/hidden.html you will find great audio car tours, among them, "The Black and White Villages," "The Golden Valley Tour" (if you saw the movie SHADOWLANDS, about C.S. Lewis, starring Anthony Hopkins and Debra Winger, the golden valley was the place pictured in the painting C.S. Lewis had had as a child.)

Offa's Dyke, built in the 8th century, the 12th century Norman architecture of Kilpeck Church (http://www.herefordwebpages.co.uk/kilpeck.shtml) with its Sheela Na Gig should not be missed. The marches (borderlands between Wales and England) area is so interesting, full of ruins of early castles, abbeys, etc. I think this area should not be neglected in a tour of Britain. It is fascinating.

We also stayed in Shropshire at a B&B (the very pleasant and remote Hilltop Farm)just minutes from Caer Caradoc, the refuge for Caractacus, one of the last Britons to hold out against the invading Romans. Obviously, I could go on and on, but just wanted to make the point that Herefordshire and Shropshire should NOT be missed. Take the Marches Tours and Talks audio tours and you will see the gorgeous countryside you would otherwise miss - winding roads, hedgerows, and pubs that appear out of nowhere, such as The Bull's Head in Craswall, Hereford, which serves a delicious Sunday dinner.

Don't skip Herefordshire!
Judy Masrud <email>
Dallas, WI   USA   Fri 01/07/2005

Honeymoon in UK
We used Rick's book for our honeymoon to the UK. We stayed at Amar Agua Guest House in Edinburgh and we loved it. Dawn-Ann was SO wonderful! We had to leave early both mornings and she got up early to pack us breakfast to take with us. We also took a day tour of the Scottish Highlands through Heart of Scotland Tours. Nick was an EXCELLENT guide.

The only thing that I wish we could have done on the tour would have been to have toured Stirling Castle. York was our favorite. I would definitely recommend staying for 2 days. Unfortunately, the free walking tour of the city was extremely boring. I think it really depends on which guide you get. I've been to Europe three times and each time I've used Rick's recommended hotels . His suggestions have never steered me wrong.
Stacy <email>
Huntington Beach, CA   USA   Thu 12/16/2004

Bath
My husband and I went to Great Britian for the first time Nov 20th to the 27th. We spent 3 nights in Bath at a wonderful B&B called the Paradise Hotel. The staff was warm and friendly, the English breakfast was tasty, and the rooms were clean and charming. There is a short but steep walk to get to the hotel but it's well worth it. I recommend afternoon tea at the Pump Room with clotted cream, you won't be disappointed.
Kim <email>
Charlottesville, VA   USA   Mon 12/06/2004

Tea Time in the Cotswolds
Noticing many of the comments regarding the price of a high tea in London, if you're out in about in the countryside, particularly the Cotswolds, there is a town called Tetbury. We visited the Close Hotel in the town of Tetbury. It was "old stuffed sofa," but close your eyes, and you'd think you were in 1944. We had afternoon tea which included scones, jam and clotted cream for about 5 pounds each. It was quite delightful. Oh, and we got there via Mad Max Tours, which I would highly recommend.
Terry <email>
Livonia, NY   USA   Fri 12/03/2004

Arreton House B&B, Blockley, Cotswolds
The highlight of our visit to the UK in August of '04 was staying at the Arreton House, Blockley.www.arreton.demon.co.uk

My wife and I and another couple stayed at Gloria Baylis' house centrally located in the Cotswolds. Everything was outstanding; our room, the breakfast and the common room, the patio and the house grounds. Gloria was wonderfully entertaining and at the Great Western Arms just across the road the food and real ale were great and the people, both proprietors and clientele were warm and friendly.

I can't recommend staying at the Arreton House any higher. The memories from here are as pleasant as any from my European travels. I want to go back right away, but my wife wants to see Venice, Rome and Tuscany before we start repeating.
kurt dicke <email>
wheaton, il   USA   Thu 12/02/2004

Punting the Cam
If you're imagining a quiet punt trip along the Cam, I recommend you go towards the end of the day when punts (which can hold up to 18 people) are less crowded. If you're renting, the Cam can be a veritable traffic jam throughout the day. When I was there this summer, there were quite a few groups, fueled by alcohol, partying noisily on punts. That ended about 6 p.m. or so. Punting the Cam after that was a serene and uncrowded delight. I guess it depends what kind of experience you're looking for.
Jenny
  Canada   Sun 10/31/2004

Crestow House in Stow-on-the-Wold
The Crestow House in Stow-On-The-Wold was absolutely the best B&B we experienced during our trip to The U.K. this past October. Try it -- you'll like it.
George Carey <email>
Boise, Id   USA   Sun 10/31/2004

Accommadations in Great Britian
We stayed in one of your b&b's in Edienburg, Scotland. Wonderful people. clean, very nice, we also used your suggestion in York, another very nice place. My sister is miss x clean. She was impressed. We also used another recommadation in Bath. again very pleased.
Mary
Beverly, , NJ   USA   Wed 10/13/2004

York
Recently spent a few days up in York and stayed at 23 St. Mary's. Very nice B&B. Chris and Julie were terrific and very helpful (without being intrusive). Their full-english ranks among the best I've had, although I came away quite full! As far as creaky top-floor rooms, I believe I stayed in the room opposite Dorothy (post below) and found the floor to be a little squeaky. Sorry, but this would be typical for an abode that's as old as most of the buildings on that block and it wasn't bothersome in the least. In fact, I slept quite soundly in what is a very quiet neighbhorhood just up Bootham Rd.

Would highly recommend visiting both the Minster and Nat'l Railway museum (be sure to get the combined ticket for the undercroft, treasury and crypt - superlative exhibit below that highlights the roman and norman periods of the church).

Had fine meals at Oscars and Cafe Concerto, although I found certain pubs to be above-average in terms of food and drink. 4 pubs I can highly recommend - the Olde Starre, Black Swan, Minster Inn, and Royal Oak. (The latter had excellent lunch and dinner menu with a non-smoking room to boot. Very friendly staff.) The Minster Inn is just around the corner from 23 St. Mary's and was also very welcoming. Pub owners and clientele very genial.
cagey <email>
Weschester, CA   USA   Wed 10/13/2004

Two Weeks in Britain
My wife and I just spent the last two very enjoyable -- though predictably gray and wet -- weeks of September in England and Wales, mostly following RS's recommendations. This was our fourth annual September European trip, and the third following RS's books.A couple of things stand out:

1. Food: Although not known for its culinary offerings, in the UK we had probably the best food on any of our trips, and that includes trips to Italy, Germany and Austria. We found that following RS's restaurant recommendations was -- with the lone exception of the Wagamama Noodle Bar in London -- very beneficial. (We can't quite understand the attraction of that restaurant. Maybe we ordered the only tasteless entrees on the menu!)

2. Stairs, stairs, and more stairs: RS always warns about stairs, and in past trips they have not been a problem, as we have usually been placed in rooms on the lower two or three floors.
This trip there seemed to be a conspiracy to put us at the top of the building everywhere we went, culminating in London (more about that on RS's London site) where we felt like we were on the 19th floor of a 5-story building.
It got to be a real problem, as our 5th floor room was 85 steps above the lobby, and 101 above the breakfast room. Leaving the room in the morning required some serious planning, as a return trip was out of the question. As we are not getting any younger, we will have to do something about stairs our next trip.

3. Tourist-Free areas: We were amazed how much of our trip was spent as the only Americans in the area. We thought we would at least run into other RS disciples, but we went days at a time seeing only natives and British tourists.

Though they have the reputation for being quite reserved, we found the British people to be very friendly and outgoing. They like Americans very much, though by and large have nothing good to say -- when pressed -- about the current U.S. government.

4. Afternoon Tea: With lots of walking (and stairs!) we really came to appreciate this custom, stopping half a dozen afternoons for tea and scones and a welcome break.

Some thoughts on sights and places to stay and eat:

Bath: Brock's Guest House's reputation is well deserved, as Marion Dodd does a wonderful job. We ate dinner at the recommended Martini, Rajpoot Tandoori, and Tilly's Bistro, and they were all excellent.

One note for those planning to enjoy a relaxing day at the new Thermae Bath Spa...it is still not open! RS's listing of hours and prices, and some guidebooks' photos of bathers enjoying the water to the contrary notwithstanding, it is NOT open, and there is no schedule for its opening! It has been under construction for years, and is the City of Bath's great white elephant, costing every man, woman and child some 100 pounds in taxes...a total of some 36 million pounds so far. There is some doubt it will ever open.

Ruthin: The Medieval Banquet was great fun, and gave us a chance to meet and mingle with some Welsh people, as well as American tourists. The Banquet was the only place we saw Americans.Aside from the Banquet, we didn't think Ruthin was a great base for N. Wales. The Eyarth Station B&B was nice, but there is now a real shortage of good places for dinner.

RS recommended only three restaurants, and of those the Wynnstay Arms was inexplicably closed, and the Red Lion pub was a long way out of town along a winding hedge-lined road the width of a queen bed. It did not look like a hospitable drive home in the dark, so we decided not to venture in.We were, however, referred to a very good Chinese restaurant, the Dragon Boat, which is on the second floor next to the Manor House Hotel right in town. I would suggest it be added to future books.

York: 23 St. Mary's was a very nice B&B in a great location. Owners Julie and Chris were very nice and helpful, and mentioned to us that Rick -- the man himself -- had stopped in unannounced a month before to check out their service.The National Railway Museum is excellent, along with all the other usual sights.We concurred with RS that Cafe Concerto has the best food in York, and reasonably priced. Betty's is also very nice for tea.

London: If you would like our thoughts on London, you'll have to go to that site.
Ron <email>
DeWitt, MI   USA   Mon 10/11/2004

Taste of Scotland
When I arrived in Scotland, I was tired and didn't take the time to re-read Rick's comments about local entertainment. I accepted an offer, from the owner of the B&B I was staying at, for tickets to the dinner show called a Taste of Scotland. Several minutes into the entertainment, I remembered what Rick had written about this show. Something like, "If you like Laurence Welk, you're in for a treat." Unfortunately for me, I'm not a Welk fan, so I left as soon as the dessert dishes were being cleared away. Although the ticket was pricey, it seemed more cost effective to leave early and cut my losses.Tip: Take the time to re-read Rick's recommendations before buying expensive tickets to anything.
Shawna Gannon <email>
Santa Rosa, CA   USA   Fri 10/08/2004

Aonach Mor B&B Edinburgh
I recently stayed at Aonach Mor B&B in Edinburgh. Since Rick's visit to their guesthouse, Ross and Kathleen have made additional improvements to the rooms. While sparsely decorated,the rooms I saw have quality Victorian wall paper and matching duvets. Large vases of fresh flowers are the higher priced rooms. The quality of the food and service was very good. Although I didn't meet Kathleen, Ross was very attentive and aims to please.
Shawna Gannon <email>
Santa Rosa, CA   USA   Fri 10/08/2004

Bath Car Rental
Regarding Rick's advice to take a train from London to Bath and rent a car from there. I rented a car at Heathrow and drove to Bath,so that I could stop at Windsor Castle and Stonehenge. How I wished I'd heeded Rick's advice, as the driving proved to be very stressful getting out of Heathrow. Even with traffic congestion in Bath, it's a much more suitable place for picking up a rental car -- if you're new to UK driving. And it's essential that you have good, current maps. My suggestion is for Rick to use stronger wording about the topic of driving out of Bath rather than London, so as to "drive" the point home more thoroughly.
Shawna Gannon <email>
Santa Rosa, CA   USA   Fri 10/08/2004

Scotland
One thing Rick doesn't mention about driving: when staying to the left, be sure to stay to the right (of the lane) as well. I noticed a tendency to drift toward the left side of the lane (not being used to being seated on the right), which led to some harrowing moments on Scotland's narrow roads.

Note that Oban Distillery is owned by a multi-national, and your tour will end with a pitch for 5 other scotch whiskys in addition to Oban. Not necessarily a bad thing, as the whiskys are very different in style and the guide explains how they differ.

Crown Guest House in Inverness has changed owners this year (now Gordon Barbour). He's planning some "major renovations" starting in November of this year. Great location and friendly service. The rooms are non-smoking, but he does have a smoking lounge indoors.
KPO'M
IL   USA   Sun 10/03/2004

UK Tour
My sister and I just got back from an 11 day trip around the UK. Last year was our first, and we based in London at the Jurys in So Kensington. We tried flying over during the day this time and it worked great. We got in at midnite and checked in at the Aster House for 1 night. NO JET LAG!

This year was all B&B's. Ricks recommendations were right on. In the Cotswolds we stayed 2 nights at the Stow Lodge in the carriage house. It was larger than I expected and very comfortable. At every B&B we had to insist upon ensuite and no animals. We rented a car at Robinson's rental and drove all over using the recommended map I purchased. Blenheim Palace was gorgeous! We had purchased an 8 day rail pass from Rick and it worked out great, because we never knew when we would feel like leaving.

We went on to York (3 train connections) to 23 St. Marys. We had the top floor which was quite a hike, but we hoped it would be quiet. The room was huge with 3 twin beds and a TV/DVD. It was quiet enough, but the floor squeaked so bad I thought someone was walking by my bed in the middle of the night. I guess it was just next door. Dinner at Cafe Concerto was delicious one night. A really fun town. I would also recommend the fun "Ghost Walk". A little history lesson included.

Traveling to Edinburgh on a Sunday was a bad idea. They work on the lines on the weekend and they had to bus us halfway (4-1/2 hour trip). But we ended up at the Dunedin Guest House. Marsella was a charmer and the room was wonderful. We took a guided hike/tour of Roslin Glen and Rosslyn Chapel with Celtic Trails. It was just OK. I can't really recommend highly. The hike was fun, but our guide asked us to take the bus back because the other 3 people with us booked her for the whole day. We did, but we were not happy. We ate at both the New Bell and at Sambuki(?). Both delicious and both in our "RS bible"

We made it back to London for 4 nights at the Aster House. They had the smallest of all rooms and twice the price (being London and all), but it was clean, nice and much quieter than the Jury's down the street. Our hosts were very gracious. We ate at Belgo Centraal (my favorite), Dauqise (Polish), & La Bouche. We learned our lesson (in Cotswolds)when we went didn't use the "bible" for restaurants. We got same day tickets for "Phantom of the Opera" (3rd row) and "Much Ado about Nothing" at Shakespeares Globe. We also saw "Jerry Springer-the Opera" from the 4th row. What a hoot, but have an open mind (alot of bad language). We were also able to tour Buckingham Palace. Well worth it. We love the Tube, hate busses, love the trains.

We were more open to people this time and found most people have visited the States and love talking to us. We found out that St. Louis is not famous for the Arch, but for Route 66, stagecoaches, and Bud Beer. I don't know where they came up with some stuff. All in all, a very successful trip and thank you Rick for all the books I purchased and tore apart.
Dot <email>
St. Louis, MO   USA   Thu 09/23/2004

Isle of Man
I visited the Isle of Man and I really loved it. I was wondering if you ever have visited it. Did you ever make a film about it?
Betty Pennypacker <email>
Wyomissing, PA   USA   Thu 09/16/2004

Eight wonderful days in Britain
I tend to treat Rick's books as my travel bibles, and my three traveling companions and I were very happy with Rick's suggestions during our eight-day trip through Britain in early Sept. 2004.

The highlights of our trip were:
(1) The Dorian House Hotel in Bath (not a Rick recommendation, but it has become my all-time favorite B&B)... Add it to your book, Rick!
(2)The Mad Max Cotswold tour: We did not have a car, and we found this to be the best way to see the tiny villages of the Cotswolds with historical and interesting commentary! Book in advance, as our tour was full.
(3) The village of Stanton in the Cotswolds.
(4) The Hole in the Wall restaurant in Bath (add it to your book, Rick!!)
(5) Fish and chips... we kept a rating system of the best we had savored in each city.
(6) The Turret Guest House in Edinburgh... a great Rick recommendation. We were greeted by teddy bears on our pillows and cute-as-a-button bedrooms. The breakfasts were the best I've had in Britain.
(7) The West Highlands Lochs and Castles tour with RABBIES TRAVEL. Our guide was hilarious, and we saw some truly incredible scenary (not to mention the castle from "Monty Python and the Holy Grail").
(8) Exploring Edinburgh's Royal Mile.
(9) The London Eye ferris wheel (well worth the 11 GBP).
(10) The Covent Garden Comedy Club.
(11) "The Woman in Black" -- an incredible theatre production in the West End.
(12) The tour of the Buckingham Palace staterooms (only open to the public Aug-Sept).

As train travel can be quite expensive in the UK, definitely consider a railpass. As there were four of us, we opted for the Britrail Party Pass. The cost ended up being only $150 per person for four days of unlimited travel in Britain; we only traveled two out of the four days, but as we were going to Scotland, it still came out cheaper than buying point-to-point tickets. We also took advantage of the cheap airline prices between London and Edinburgh. We flew back to London from Scotland on BMI for only 11 GBP per person, one way. Book early... save a ton!!
Heather <email>
Dallas, TX   USA   Sun 09/12/2004

I forgot to add that Rick's Britain/Ireland books are well researched: we tore out relevant sections and used them extensively. Two historic houses we enjoyed (with a 9 yr. old) but not mentioned were Hill House and Dalemain House. Since Rick's itinerary travels from N. Wales to the Lake district (which we did), perhaps information on Chester might be useful to drivers. We had hoped to walk the historic roman walls but had car problems and pushed on.
Robin <email>
Boston, MA   USA   Fri 09/03/2004

Two wet weeks in Britain
This was our first trip to the UK (family of three, 9 yr. old daughter.) Edinburgh and Stirling castles, Museum of Childhood, the Tattoo and street performers were big hits; Hill House (Helensburgh) and Museum of Transport (Glasgow) were also fun.
Beckfoot Country House B&B (6 miles from Penrith) was the best B&B in Britain! The Whites are lovely hosts and our family room was enormous and luxurious. Queen's Head Inn (Askham) had great food and the warmest townspeople we met; there is a swimming pool right behind it. Beckfoot is near Pooley Bridge for Ullswater boats and an easy drive to Hadrian's Wall (Vindolinda and Housestead forts were incredible.)
North Wales: roads are super narrow and treacherous (Harlech Castle was scary!) Get the smallest car you can live with. Conwy, Harlech, and Caernarfon castles, Sygun copper mine, Llechwedd caverns were worthy; not impressed by Portmerion (too many trinket shops) which paled in comparison to Snowdonia's beauty.
Robin <email>
Boston, MA   USA   Wed 09/01/2004

Great Britain 2004
We've just returned from a wonderful trip to England and Scotland. As with past European trips we used many of Rick Steve's recommondations for B&B's and hotels. Once again, we found delightful accomodations.

York: The Queen Anne's B&B in the Bootham area as perfect! Helpful innkeeper, nice room (small but we knew it would be); and perfect location for walking everywhere. Edinburgh: The Priestville Guest House in the Dalkeith Rd area was perfect. Colin and Trina, the innkeepers were so very helpful with all our public transportation questions and great people; the room was very nice and the breakfasts outstanding. The location was a nice quiet break from the crowds and fun in the City Center with the Festival.

Inverness: The Ryeford House B&B was lovely; nice people; by now were were really enjoying those great breakfasts; wonderful location for walking the town. We did take a taxi (short drive) to and from the train station .... it was raining and I couldn't face the stairs at that point... lolNot to mention the many wee bottles of Scotch in my bag!

We had 4 nights unscheduled at the end of our 3 week stay....the weather in the Highlands was getting more and more rainy so we took the train back to London for a lovely stay. At King's Cross Railway Station in London I had one pound, no pen or pencil and only Rick's book..... I called the Jury's Inn Hotel listed with phone # in his book and got a reservation in the Isleton area....it was very nice, simple, good staff, and pub on site. Around the corner from the hotel we enjoyed Upper Street with lots of pubs, restaurants, and shops. Hadn't been to that area before and we enjoyed it.

We continue to be fans of the Rick Steve's Guidebooks...so practical and informative. Theresa
Theresa <email>
Walnut Creek, , Ca   USA   Tue 08/31/2004

My family (myself, my wife, 13-yr old daughter, 11-yr old son) went to England early June and had a wonderful time. Windsor castle was a highlight. An easy day trip out of London by train. In general found the Rick Steve's book to be great. Found Bath to be unappealing, however. Confusing to drive in. It have a dirty, grimy feel to it. Very glad we did not follow the books advice of staying there. Truro in Cornwall (a marvelous region) was what we thought Bath would be. A clean, pleasant medium sized town/city. On the way to Bath, however, Avesbury, a little mini-stonehenge with a village in the center was well worth the stop

  USA   Mon 08/30/2004

London
Followed Rick's recommendation concerning the Tower - worked perfectly. Stayed at the Blades Hotel as recommended by other posters; clean rooms, very helpful staff, good location. As in so many other small European hotels, there are stairs!Sorry to see message below regarding Margaret Ranson's death. We stayed at her B&B in Ruthin several years ago and thoroughly enjoyed it. She was a lovely woman.

Chicago, IL   USA   Tue 08/24/2004

Cotswolds, North Wales, Hadrian's Wall
COTWOLDS: Difficult to see this area without a car, but cycling is a lovely way to experience the pace of the Cotswolds. Your bike will be conversation starter with the locals. There's a bike rental shop right in the train station at Moreton-in-Marsh (Country Lane Cycling Centre). Excellent, friendly service. Rental includes lock, helmet, bike pack and any other necessary item. Wasn't in Rick's book but was a happy find for me.

CONWY, NORTH WALES: Well worth the 6.5 hour train hour ride (with 5 changes) from Moreton because of the wonderful people I met there. Stayed at the Bryn B&B which has changed hands. Alison was friendly and personable, very welcoming from the first moment I contacted her by email. A retired friend of hers drove me around Wales for a day for the same rate as described in the book. It was wonderful to have my own guide to North Wales. My only regret was that I couldn't extend my stay.

HADRIAN'S WALL: Be sure you doublecheck the bus schedule from Hexham. There can be a 2.5 hour gap between buses going out from Hexham. It's a considerable walk from Vindolanda to the wall, long enough that you start to wonder when you'll get to the wall or whether you're lost.
Jenny
  Canada   Sat 08/21/2004

Edinburgh
We recently returned from 10 days in the UK. We stayed at Aonach Mor Guesthouse in Edinburgh. This was by far our favorite B&B. Ross was a delightful host. The family room was huge, clean and comfortable. The breakfast selections were extensive and Ross offered great tips for local eating and shopping.
Mary and Dan Somers <email>
Riverside, IL   USA   Sat 08/14/2004

Oban Scotland
We took a boat tour to see the Puffins. This was the highlight of our trip. The small boat left us off on a small island and we could wander around for 2 hours and observe/photograph the puffins. This is still unspoiled beautiful scenery. On the way back we stopped at Finnigan's Cave, a geological wonder. Again, a highlight. The only problem I had was that I get seasick, so I had taken medication and was OK, but the sea was very rough that day and I had no appetite for the rest of the day (no problem - it just compensated for the huge breakfast). But if you tend to seasickness, be sure to take something. I would highly recommend this trip from Oban.
Lois Griffith <email>
Latrobe, PA   USA   Tue 08/03/2004

Britain for three
We took a trip to England and Wales this June, by car for Wales and Cotswolds, and by Train for London, York, and Paris. My daughter wanted to see prehistoric England, crafts, and the British Museum. My son wanted to see fighting castles. I wanted to see Paris, and avoid Heathrow. We mostly followed your guide Great Britain 2004 and this worked out great, especially finding rooms for three adults. Accomodations were: Eyarth Station, Ruthin; Old Bakehouse, Chipping Camden; Queen Anne's Guest House, York. [For London we tried the Princess Hotel, 35-7 Argyle St, near King's Cross] We found that we had to book these triple rooms by February, especially London. This is my tenth trip to England, so I tried Manchester International Airport. This worked out great with little waiting time for Customs or baggage, except that there was construction at the rail station there (bus connection needed).

My daughter enjoyed the British Museum, Louvre, Chester, Stonehenge, York Castle Museum, and the crown jewels. My son enjoyed these castles: Conway, Caernarvon, Harlech, Warwick, and the Tower of London. You are right about the medieval banquet at Ruthin; it is better than the banquets at Warwick, Hatfield, or Coombe Abbey.

Note for drivers!: The video cameras are everywhere, especially the motorways going down hill, bus only lanes, and small towns. For those going to Salisbury or Stonehenge,Tidworth, on the A338, has multiple cameras checking motorists at points of dropping speeds, narrow bridges, and curves.

Livermore, CA   USA   Sun 08/01/2004

B&B in the Cotswolds
Before going on our trip to England & Wales in June, we checked out this site, and a fellow traveler recommended Brymbo B&B in the Cotswolds (near Mikkleton, Chipping Camden). Well, we were very happy there. We stayed 3 days & received a wonderful 2 hr Land Rover tour of surrounding towns. We cld never have traveled thru those small roads on our own. The B&B is very comfortable with large rooms and en-suite (up to date) bathrooms. Very clean and the full english breakfast was as healthy as it can be (home made bread, grilled bacon, not fried, grilled eggs). Their two dogs and quiet country surroundings made it our favourite place during our trip. Thank you for the tip.
Maryanne <email>
Montreal, QC   CDA   Mon 07/26/2004

Cumbria/ Hadrian's Wall
A wonderful find in Cumbria, hard upon Hadrian's Wall: Bessiestown Farm Country Guersthouse. Just NW of the main Hadrian's Wall tourist activity, at Catlowdy, Carlisle, Cumbria. (www.bessiestown.co.uk). Impossibly quiet and soothing (in the middle of sheep pastures), clean, well-appointed and affordable, and the best breakfast--with all local ingredients--we had in 19 days in the UK. A very welcoming and helpful family as host.
Rick Roth
Seattlle, WA   USA   Sat 07/24/2004

Aldingham House & Coach House
Ricks Guide Book is great I have used it twice on trips to the U.K. I notice that there are not accomdation listing's for Carlisle which is a great place to stay for visiting the Lake District, Borders and Wall. I bring this up because I stayed at a wonderful B&B called Aldingham House & Coach House. run by Alison & Gordon Stewart. It is a beautiful 19th century home, the rooms are great and the hostess is truly lovely, I can't begin to say enough about our stay their and would highly recommend it be added to your places to stay. Thank you Cindi
Cindi Alaan <email>
Chico, ca   USA   Sat 07/24/2004

Scotland Honeymoon
In late June we drove through Scotland and then flew on to Ireland (see post on the Ireland wall too). We were consistently thrilled with the recommendations on B&Bs and places to eat in Rcik's book.

At dinner the first night in London (Stayed at the Lime Tree and ate at Grumbles near Victoria Station - both wonderful) before taking the train to Edinburgh the next morning, we chatted with the couple at the next table. Transplants from Scotland, they recommended two stops for our honeymoon tour - Dunkeld and Port Appin. Both turned out to be true ETBD experiences.

In Dunkeld, we booked a B&B through the local TI. Read the details on the Birnam Wood House in the Heroic B&B topic. The area (between Perth and Pitlochry on the A9) is beautiful with many lesser known sites, including the area where Beatrix Potter was inspired to write the Peter Rabbit story.

The gem of the whole trip was Port Appin, a small town on the coast 20 miles north of Oban. The Pierhouse Hotel (http://www.pierhousehotel.co.uk/) served some of the best food we had on the trip (and there was a LOT of good food) with amazing views from the table. We stayed two nights at the Fasgadh B&B which had a day room with equally spectacular views and terrific warmth from the MacCorquodale's. A passenger ferry goes from the pier in front of the Pierhouse to the Isle of Lismore. Bikes are available for rent at both ends of the ferry.

Driving through Oban southbound, we were surprised at how crowded the town was. This was complicated by road construction in the city center which led to a long traffic backup in the early afternoon. We may have passed through at a peak ferry time, because later in the evening things had settled down. Our Ryanair flight from Prestwick to Dublin was cheaper and faster than the ferry. Thanks to the ETBD crew, we had a fabulous honeymoon.
Neil and Debby Krey <email>
Hurst, TX   USA   Thu 07/22/2004

Gatwick Express
I completely agree with Jill, do not buy your ticket for the Gatwick Express on the train. In May my husband, brother in law and sister in law flew to London to met me. They paid 26.00BP for three, if they had bought them on the train they would have had to pay 13.00BP each. My sister in law and brother in law left England before we did, and I was flying on a different airline. So the day before my husband and I left we went to Victoria Station and purchased his ticket for the Gatwick Express and it was only 7.00BP. I took the tube from Earls Court to Heathrow paid only 3.80BP, it was so easy and great.
Robin <email>
Oh   USA   Thu 07/15/2004

Gatwick Express 4 for 2
If your traveling with four or more people from Gatwick to Victoria don't buy your ticketts on the train. The four for two allows four adults (16 or older) to travel between London Victoria and Gatwick Airport for the price of two. Four for two can not be purchased on-board the train but tickets can be purchased from Gatwick Express's Ticket Offices at London Victoria and Gatwick Airport. Check out their web site: http://www.gatwickexpress.co.uk/ Saved us a little money as we werer traveling with our two teenagers!
Jill Arden <email>
Shelby Twp., MI   USA   Fri 07/09/2004

Gatwick Express
If you plan to use the Gatwick Exress train to London (or vice verca), buy your tickets on the train! There is no penalty, and it is not uncommon for the train to be short of ticket conductors. And if that happens you get a free trip!
Michael Schneider
New Paltz, NY   USA   Thu 07/08/2004

UK tour
My husband and I toured the UK for three weeks in June. For anyone traveling by rail, allow plenty of time. Trains were consistently delayed. Would not recommend Parade Park in Bath. In Conwy, North Wales, we had tried to book the Bryn B&B, but the owners were selling it and Ian Shaw was no longer offering driving tours. We stayed at the Bridge instead; the morning we left Conwy for the Lakes District, it was too early for breakfast, so they packed a huge lunch for us to take on the train!

We spent two nights in Keswick (Lakes area) but decided Rick was wrong - it was so beautifiul, it was worth at least three nights.

Edinburgh was cold and rainy during our stay, but definitely worth a three-night stop. We stayed at the Dunedin and as promised, Marsella was a delightful host.
Laura Carr <email>
Newton, MA   USA   Thu 07/08/2004

Closed B & B
Margaret Ranson's B&B in Ruthin Wales is closed. She died earlier this year. I found out from her husband when I called to inquire.
Brenda Slabbinck <email>
Clinton Township, MI   USA   Mon 07/05/2004

Arundel, and south coast and central Wales
Arundel Castle--huge glorious home of Dukes of Norfolk begun in 1067. Better than a fairy tale,it's history is long, dramatic and bloody while it exceeds expectations of what a castle should be. Grounds and keep tour is 4.50L and castle apartments tour is 9.50L. Arundel is about 25 mi. west of Brighton. Beautiful and as historic as it gets.

Builth Wells, Wales- stayed at The Cedars. Vic Morris, owner and excellent chef also shared music of the his town men's choir. Most friendly beautiful and homey place.

Charmouth, just east of Lyme Regis on south coastin Dorset-- Hensleigh Hotel great small hotel nearly on the beach, conservatory dining room, excellent gourmet dinners which are included in the room price as well as the breakfast. Proprietors are John and Caroline Davis.
Linda Radtke <email>
Poulsbo, WA   USA   Thu 07/01/2004

Bath,the Cotswolds and Blenheim Palace
Bath-The Whitehart Inn(hostel) was the best price for a family of 4(50 pounds). We did not have our own bath as indicated and there was no hot water. It was clean,friendly and is apparently under new management. We drove through the Cotswolds one day ending at Blenheim Palace. The countryside is beautiful. Thatched roof houses with magnificent gardens were wonderful to see. Blenheim Palace deserves a half day.It was stunning inside and out. The huge estate could impress royalty I'm sure.
Tonye Usher <email>
Sulphur Springs, TX   USA   Tue 06/29/2004

Manchester Info
Since Rick doesn't cover Manchester, UK in his guidebook, I had to do some hunting for travel info. Found a great site with visitor information. http://www.manchester.gov.uk/visitorcentre/ If you click on the Free Visitor Guide link, they will send you three booklets - Places to Stay, Visitors Guide that includes Lancashire, Liverpool, and Cheshire, and finally a handy Manchester pocket map. They sent this all for free to my US address and I received it within a week! Hope this is useful to my fellow travelers!
Zaida <email>
CA   USA   Thu 06/24/2004

Bath, England
My wife and I just spent a week in Bath, England visiting our daughter, we can't thank you enough for your tips on restaurants, museums etc, you saved us a lot of time searching! I have a couple of recommendations of my own to share..we stayed at the Henry Guest House which was great. Run by Sue who really knows how to look after her guests, and her breakfast is enough to keep you going for hours.

We took a Scarper Tours trip out to Stonehenge which was fantastic - our guide Dan was knowledgeable, friendly and a lot of fun - the company have been running for a year and were recommended by Sue, and the trip was a real highlight. For anyone heading over to the area soon, I highly recommend both, quite new, additions to the "Bath Experience"!
Ken Saundersen <email>
Miami, FL   USA   Wed 06/23/2004

Lodging near Gatwick
For excellent lodging near Gatwick, Rick is right to recommend Barn Cottage in lovely Leigh. The rooms are pleasant, but the English garden and in-ground pool are real draws and the hosts could not be more friendly. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay there (on the airport end of a trip) and plan to go back and explore Chartwell and other sites nearby. One major problem, though, is that website listed in Rick's guide is incorrect and refers to a different "Barn Cottage" in another village farther from Gatwick. The correct website is http://www.smoothhound.co.uk/hotels/barncott.html
Heidi
  USA   Wed 06/23/2004

Edinburgh Updates
Very Nice time in Edinburgh. Two updates/Observations regarding the book: The John Knox house and museum is currently closed for renovation, due to open Easter of 2005 One of the toughest towns on the trip to find a room! Worse in that we were there on a Saturday Night. Reservations highly recommended. 5 Hostels and 3 Hotels in the city centre fully booked (There was a 150 lb. room available!) and many of the B&B's on Dalkieth Road booked. Did find one though after a dozen tries.

As an aside, for the Dalkieth Road B&B's..take a bus. Whomever timed the walk to 20 min is either an Olympic level speed walker or only counted the time after taking a break for a pint at a pub halfway. Plan on 40 to 60 min to your B&B from City Centre if walking. Dalkieth Road B&B's, nice area
Paul <email>
IA   USA   Mon 06/21/2004

Great Britain guide
Rick's guide book to Great Britain was amazing! It was very helpful and basically everything he suggested turned out to be great fun and a great experience. Definitively would recommend (upon his suggestion) to explore the Highlands of Scotland by using Haggis Backpackers. Hadn't had so much fun in years, as I had during the Skye High 3-day tour. Thanks Rick!
Carolina Goutsou <email>
Dallas, TX   USA   Mon 06/14/2004

Cotswolds, Bath
My husband just found the info on Cotswold Roaming, for those who wish to tour the Cotswolds, but do not wish to rent a car, as suugested by Rick's GB guidebook: www,oxfordcity.co.uk/cotsowld-roaming/ Cannot recommend this tour outfit too highly. We had a really great time, and got into little places no bus could squeeze into and we would have been too intimidated to even if we had got up the nerve to rent a car. Phil's (the head roamer) e-mail is tours@cotswold-roaming.co.uk

And using Oxford as the jumping off point was fabulous. Went to a Beethoven concert in the Sheldonian Theatre (one of Wren's early buildings), walked Port Meadow, about the only land in England that hasn't ever been plowed! On most days, horses, cows, and sheep outnumber people by far. And all the colleges and other well-known and loved Oxford sites are well know and loved for good reason. I've been to Campbridge too and it is lovely, but Oxford is worth 4 to 5 days' visit!

On to Bath, thank you Rick Steves, for mentioning the Museum of Bath at Work. What a treat, that we would never have known about had it not been for your guidebook. The volunteer was delighted to see us. I think we were the only ones to visit thus far that day, couldn't do enough for us. We had a terrific time.

We'll have to agree to disagee on Sally Lunn's restaurant: sure it was small, hot, and a little kitchy, and we spoke with others who had gone there for dinner and were disappointed. But we just stopped in for tea and a sweet...Jim had the Sally Lunn "muffin", a mammoth cake, light on the top, golden on the bottom (the original Sally Lunn was a French immigrant who sold this muffin on the street by shouting "soleil-lune", meaning the top was light like the moon, the bottom gold like the sun.). I had the largest rhubarb crumble ever fashioned by any retail establishment in the history of public dining. Happy happy pigs were we.

We found using National Express buses much better than riding the train. Two years ago, we found ourselves standing most of the way to Birmingham trying to get to Keswick. The buses were great! Must book ahead; it's not like Greyhound. Seats are reserved. More later as we think of stuff. Lots to say on London on the other board once we collect our thoughts.

Oh of course, Mad Max Tours out of Bath. Very very well done. Our bus was a veritable Rick Steves Fan Club. Obviously, this is not a venue to meet the locals.

San Francisco, CA   USA   Sun 06/13/2004

Edinburgh
In May I spent 3 days in Edinburgh and loved it! I used Rick's guidebook and suggestions. It's a beautiful, walkable city, and also has an excellent bus system. I believe the daily pass was about $2.50. After exploring the city, be sure to take a buss out to Leith and the Ocean Mall, where the Britannia is moored. Very interesting self tour. Afterward, enjoy a drink or dinner from one of the many excellent, inexpensive food court offerings available in the mall. Take your drink or coffee out onto the deck overlooking the Firth of Forth.

I also enjoyed an easy train ride to Linlithgow, which is a beautiful, friendly little village. Explored the castle ruins and walked around the village and large pond. Magnificent views.

Edinburgh's tourist office is right in the center of everything -right by the bus stops, tour busses, and next to the train station. Everyone was extremely helpful and friendly. I hope to go there again and see more of Scotland. I stayed at the Amar Agua Guest House at Kilmaurs Terrace - recommended by Rick and a perfect choice. I submitted my comments about it to the Heroic B & B section of the graffitti wall.
Judith Beck <email>
Perkasie, PA   USA   Sun 06/06/2004

Re: Feedback on York & Rosslyn Chapel-Edinburgh
Just wanted to share my own experience in York recently, as it was one of the highlights of my trip to the UK. Naturally, we all have our different tastes, but my son and I really enjoyed York -- especially after the extreme noise and congestion of London. It was almost serene, especially walking before the shops open, or after they close (which is about 5 or 6). Yes, it is touristy -- that's their main economy. A taxi driver said they haven't had as many tourists in recent years, and they were glad to see us coming back. But here's a city that negotiated with McDonald's to let it open a location, but got hundreds of daffodil bulbs planted around the city walls in return. We just missed the blooming, but were told it's spectacular.

And we enjoyed the streets of shops like the Shambles -- we found some great, inexpensive souvenirs. (And there is a great chocolate shop in that street that makes its candy on site. Yum!)

We enjoyed the city walk with the friendly (free) volunteer guide. I think it's wonderful that locals volunteer for this because "we love our city so much."

The Yorkshire Museum was very interesting (especially seeing the beautiful Middleham Jewel up close, for which $4 million was raised to keep it from leaving the country). The museum gardens were lovely with the majestic ruins of St. Mary's Abbey looming nearby, and the lone surviving peacock walked right up to me. (In Victorian times, there were bears and wolves in the park, too. That would make for an interesting walk!)

The paths along the River Ouse are very nice, watching punters glide along. And from almost anywhere you see the awesome Minster rising above the city. We spent a lot of time in the Minster and its Undercroft (see if you can pitch a coin into the small saucer in the Roman pillar with help from a large mirror--I did it!) And enjoy the small, pretty Dean's Park attached to the Minster with its war memorial plaques dedicated by the Queen Mother. And where we saw a crazy little film being made made involving a man dressed as Bush, a midget in spy clothes, and a can of Dr. Pepper. If it ends up at Cannes, I've got it on video.

Just wanted to state how much my son and I enjoyed this pretty, friendly town.

By the way, if you have any interest in Rosslyn Chapel outside Edinburgh, try to go soon. It's been "discovered" lately, the fee has just gone up 20%, and a new parking lot and visitor's center are being planned, which will detract from its pastoral setting. Please feel free to contact me for any more info.
Julie <email>
Fort Worth, TX   USA   Fri 06/04/2004

Feedback
As a member of the National Guard I was recently notified for possible deployment to the Middle East. Call me crazy, but I did not want my first overseas experience to be Iraq or Afghanistan. So, on the spur of the moment, I went to the UK from May 13-29 and a copy of Rick Steves' book was never far from my side.

For what it's worth, here is my own two cents of constructive criticism. First, I'm just your typical down-to-Earth-blue-collar-football-watching-boxer-lounging single, male slob. That being said, it is my own opinion that Mr. Steves' rates art galleries far, far too highly. If you in any way match the above description, or were never inclined to analyze paintings before, then don't go. Personally, I'd give the National Art Gallery and the Tate Modern in London 1-star instead of the 3 in Mr. Steves' book. And even then I'm only being generous due to their convenient locations to Trafalgar Square and the Globe Theatre, respectively.

Second, if you want to experience Great Britain's naval past, ignore the Cutty Sark in Greenwich. It was anticlimatic. A better example of the "wooden walls of England" would be the HMS Victory in Portsmouth Harbor. As it's only a 90 minute detour by train from London, and a 10-minute walk from the station, it is well worth your time.

Third, even though I'm a history major, I was surprised to discover that I just did not enjoy going to the British Museum. It was too...academic. Some exhibits even seemed entirely devoted to shards of glass and bits of pottery! Boring!I prefer my museums to be more hands-on and interactive. With that qualification, the Imperial War Museum was my best experience.

Finally, contrary to the hype and recommendations, York was the biggest let down of my UK trip. It's a tourist trap, plain and simple. Yes, the York Minister was beautiful. Yes, the museums were, atleast, distracting. But I couldn't shake the notion that I was wandering an outdoor mall. The citycenter was nothing more than wall-to-wall shops. And if it's medieval city walls you want to experience, Conwy in North Wales was a vastly superior example (and was, indeed, infinitely more picturesque).

Well, I think I've rambled on long enough. I'll try and post some hard-won travel advice on one of the other message boards. Don't get me wrong, however, I had the time of my life in the UK (and I have the empty bank account to prove it!). If you have any personal questions or opinions, feel free to email.
Kiyoshi Freeman
Mesa, AZ   USA   Thu 06/03/2004

The Guide: Don't leave home without it
We planned our 3-week trip (May 1-22) with the GB 2004 book. We didn't make advance reservations except in London, since we wanted to be very flexible. That caused only two small problems - both on Skye.

Recommendation of Abbeyfields B&B in York was exactly as described in the guidebook and we liked York so well we stayed another day. Richard and Gwen Martin were very accommodating and we had a great time there.

Edinburgh - stayed at recommended Aonoch Mor on Dalkeith Road and this turned out to be our favorite B&B of the whole trip. Ross is a wonderful host - breakfast was excellent.

We opted for BritRail passes and they worked out very well. Also rented car in Inverness at train station - Sharp's Reliable Wrecks is the name, but we had a brand-new automatic that made for a pleasant coastal drive to John O' Groats.

Most used things in the guidebook: the telephone calling chart in the back; the London Tube map in the front; information about tourist sites - hours, location, fees, rating, etc.

Skye car rental at Broadford has gone out of business. Didn't find out until we had gotten off the bus there. By the time we made it to Port Righ, the rental cars were all taken since it was too early for the local tours and everyone else was having the same problem. Sigh . . . Traveled all the way to Skye to do our laundry is the story we tell. (Next morning's bus ride to Armadale and the ferry to Mallaig were worth the trouble.)
Steve and Linda Chandler
Oklahoma City, OK   USA   Tue 06/01/2004

Thanks for the great Britain advice
A very big thank you to Rick and all these postings for making my recent trip to Britain so wonderful!

One suggestion I'd heartily recommend to anyone traveling by train in Britain, though, is to MAKE RESERVATIONS! They're free & easy in Britain to make in the travel centers in the stations. We traveled from London's King Cross to York (in the middle of the week), and all the seats were reserved. Had to sit in the smoking car. For the rest of our train journeys, we reserved seats, although we never found another journey that crowded. You can make all your upcoming reservations at one time if you know what time you're traveling, or change them later if necessary. Also, try to get in the designated "quiet coach" where cell phones & radios are not allowed. While suffocating in the smoking car, we had to listen to a young woman (perhaps Polish?) speak non-stop on her cell for over an hour. Honestly, I never heard anyone talk so long without seeming to take a breath!

Got to the Tower of London a few minutes after they opened at 9:00 on a Saturday, and there was hardly anyone around! Went through the Crown Jewels moving sidewalk 3 times and could have gone a dozen if I'd wanted. Fantastic! So go early -- it's worth it! Saw the line forming out the door around 10:00-10:30.

We're all going to find different things interesting, but something else I would recommend is to try to allot more time to certain places you really want to see. For instance, Rick recommends seeing York Minster at 1600 and staying for the evensong service at 1700. But the Minster is so fabulous, with so much to see and read and absorb, and the Undercroft as well to tour, that one hour cannot do it justice. We got there about 3:00 and did go to the evensong. But we still felt rushed.

If in Edinburgh and wanting a day trip into the Highlands, I strongly recommend Heart of Scotland Tours (www.heartofscotlandtours.com) as Rick mentions. We had a great "Loch Ness & Legends" tour, 12 hrs and 300 miles, and a great driver, Neal Fraser. You get your money's worth. Got to see some awesome scenery, took a boat tour of Loch Ness, stopped for several great photo ops, & saw Hamish the Hairy Cow. And met some very nice folks.

For B&Bs, in London we stayed at Vandon House Hotel. Shabbier than I expected, but friendly, helpful staff and good continental buffet breakfast. And the location was unbelievable: 2 min walking to Buckingham Palace or St. James Park, 5-10 min to Victoria Station , 5 min to Westminster Abbey. In York: Airden House -- comfortable, clean, good breakfast, easy walking to the town center. Edinburgh: Salisbury House -- comfortable, huge room, friendly owners but they stay in the background unless needed, good breakfast. Near Gatick Airport: Wayside Manor -- this was our favorite B&B. Lovely country house 10 min. from Gatwick Airport run by Phillip & Viv Plumb. Beautiful, secluded grounds & garden, roses climbing up to the 3rd story, great breakfast and friendliness from the Plumbs. Our room was lovely and so carefully decorated. Most comfortable bed of all the places we stayed. Good pub across the street in this tiny hamlet. For 5 pounds Phillip will drive you to Gatwick or call a taxi (about 8 pounds). Wish we could have stayed longer in this beautiful place.

Thanks again to all the people who provide advice on this site, and please feel free to contact me for any further info that might help your trip.
Julie <email>
Fort Worth, TX   USA   Tue 06/01/2004

Great Britain accommodations
For some reason, the email address in my entry below is inaccurate. So, if you'd like to contact me, just leave a message on the Traveler's Helpline, and I will get back to you.
Brent Walker
  USA   Mon 05/31/2004

Great Britain accommodations
We spent 2 weeks in Great Britain last summer (2003). We used Rick Steves' Great Britain as our "bible," and it proved to be an excellent resource. There are only two different recommendations that we would make. Rent the smallest car possible (fortunately, many of the owners of the B&B's where we stayed were willing to park our car; however, they all said we should have rented a smaller car). Second, we cannot recommend the Vine B&B in Stanton. Here are the B&B's we can definitely recommend: Caer Menai in Caernarfon --- John and Sandy Price --- wonderful location within the old city walls and beautiful, recently refurbished rooms. Dunsford Guest House in Keswick -- there is so much to do in this area, it is impossible to list it all here. Barriemore Hotel in Oban --- it's worth a little extra for a room overlooking the bay, and you can easily walk into town. Attend the night show at the Great Western Hotel. We were the only Americans in the audience, and it really gives you a chance to meet the locals. Ardconnel Guest House in Inverness ---- difficult to find, but a very nice property. In Edinburgh we stayed at the Marriott because it was graduation weekend and all of the B&B's were booked. Actually, it was very convenient because an express bus to the downtown area stops right in front of the hotel. 23 St. Mary's in York --- excellent location just a few blocks from the walled city. Loddington House in Dover --- this property is not in Rick Steves' book; however, it is directly under the white cliffs and run by a very nice couple. In Gatwick, we stayed at the Marriott. The rates are reasonable, and they provide a shuttle bus to the airport. Please do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions!
Brent Walker
Powell, WY   USA   Mon 05/31/2004

Cotswolds/Oxford
first, we found Rick Steve's luggage really useful, lightweight, etc. Thank you! We spent a week in the Cotswolds and a couple of days in Bath. In talking to friends of our who live in England, we found they were somewhat mystified that the Steves Cotswold foray stemmed from Bath. They always go from Oxford. We received the same recommendation from a woman at the British tourist board in NYC. So we did. Oxford was our base. And since we didn't feel like driving, we went through Cotswolds Roaming, a terrific little tour company, run by a retired teacher and school principal named Phil Baum. He was wonderful, had a tiny 6-person van that could get down 1-track roads, took us to Minster Lovell, way off the beaten path, and was a great tour guide. Highly recommended. Also very very highly recommended is staying in Oxford. What a tremendous city! The Ashmolean Museum, University Museum, the colleges, concerts, plays. We had a stupendous time. Too bad Mr. Steves doesn't tour there. We stayed at the Falcon Prive Hotel. They are really good.

San Francisco, CA   USA   Mon 05/31/2004

Back doors in Scotland
Rick doesn't talk enough about Scotland. We found tons of backdoor sights. In Edinburgh - Dunedin lived up to its legendary reputation. We would certainly recommend. For eating, we tried Deacon Brodie's Pub, as recommended in Rick's book. Can't complain. Had a good meal, and the service was great.

Asked the owners for a recommendation for a local pub w/traditional music and she recommended The Sandy Bell, also recommended by another Rick Steve's fan. Sandy Bell is another Back Door Find. Great traditional music (really, they come in, sit at a table and play!). Also, we made friends with the staff locals and also a tour guide at the Museum of Scotland. He invited us to come see his tour the next day and it was fabulous! Go to the Museum of Scotland - IT'S FREE! And fascinating, if you're into the history.

Stirling pub - go to the Settle Inn! We had TONS of fun there! Its an atmospheric, old old pub, the oldest in town, I believe.

Inverness - We stayed at Felstead - Mr and Mrs Troup were so welcoming, friendly and helpful. Great value and beautiful room! We stumbled into the Glenalbyn pub on Sunday night. Another backdoor find! Turns out they had a fabulous Scottish Folk Band, a Celeidh that night. TONS of fun! The next night we went to Nico's Tavern and saw a fabulous jazz band.

Oban - we loved this town. Its beautiful. Stayed at Barcaldine Castle 9 miles out of town. That was an unforgettable experience. We happened into the Oban Inn. Nice jukebox music, friendly staff, got to practice my gaelic with a local.
Hil & Jeff
Charleston, SC   USA   Mon 05/24/2004

Scotland, May 9 -20
My huband and I just returned from Scotland using Rick's 2004 Great Britain Guide exclusively. We were there from May 9 - 20. We had a wonderful vacation.

Here are the B&Bs where we stayed: - Dunedin Guest House, Edinburgh - Tanglin B&B, Oban - Ardconnel House, Inverness

All of them were great, and just as Rick explained in the book. Marsella at Dunedin was especially wonderful. She helped us with everything that we needed, including arranging for our Scottish Folk Evening tickets at Prestonfield House and giving us advice on sights along our route from Edinburgh to Oban. She made our trip the very best that it could be, and her home is beautiful and very conveniently located.

We spent 4 days in Edinburgh, touring the Castle, the Royal Mile, museums, and the Royal Botanic Gardens. We picked up our car at Avis on the way out of Edinburgh and drove to Oban for 3 nights.

At Oban, we took the ferry to the Isle of Mull for the day. It was very interesting but apparently too early in the season for the entire bus route to be on. So, we could just get to Tobermory but not tour the entire island. Another disappointment was that there is no longer a self-service launderette in Oban. We spent a small fortune using the drop-off laundry service there.

En route to Inverness for two nights, we toured the Uruqart Castle, which was very interesting and has a great view of Loch Ness. Since it was so early in the season, there weren't many tourists and we spent several peaceful hours there. Rick doesn't give it high marks but it was convenient and we liked it very much.

In Inverness, we enjoyed a long walk along the river and across the Ness Islands. There is some construction on the pedestrian mall, so the steps up to the B&B are a bit blocked off but still passable.

The exchange rate right now is terrible, so everything was more expensive than in the past (this is our fourth trip to the U.K. in as many years). Be prepared for high prices, too. But, the scenery is beautiful and the people are very friendly. We'd go back in a minute! Thanks, Rick, for another great U.K. vacation!
Susan <email>
Longmont, CO   USA   Sun 05/23/2004

Skye, continued
Oops, forgot to mention that the Ben Tianavaig B&B, Cafe Arriba and Isles pub are all in Portree. Also, the City Link buses from Glasgow & Edinburgh run on Sunday, it's the local buses that don't. Scenic railway note -- the train trip from Glasgow to Mallaig in sunshine was truly stunning. Aim to sit on the left side of the train to Fort William, then the right.
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC   USA   Wed 05/05/2004

Isle of Skye
I'm finishing up three days on Skye -- beautiful scenery but very variable weather! I can recommend the Ben Tianavaig B&B on Bosville Terrace ((0)147 861 2152). Friendly new owners since last year (English and Aussie) who've been renovating. Comfy new beds, great harbor view and a good breakfast. I can also recommend the food at the nearby Cafe Arriba which has delicious home-made bread and an eclectic menu that changes daily. (But don't eat at the Isles pub - also with new owners, the food was poorly prepared and the service uncaring). Word of warning: there's no public transport on Skye on Sundays, and you can't count on a bus meeting the ferry from Mallaig -- try to arrange to share a taxi with other passengers, it's likely cheaper in any case.
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC   USA   Mon 05/03/2004

Travel from Heathrow to Bath
For anyone traveling directly from Heathrow to Bath Spa--We arrived at Heathrow @ 7:22 am, hopped the Heathrow Express to Paddington, then Paddington to Bath Spa. We walked from the train station to Marblborough Road B&B, Elgin Villa, and were sitting in our room by 10:30 am. Smooth sailing all the way!
Terry <email>
Rochester, NY   USA   Wed 04/28/2004

Honister House B&B recommendation
A great stay in Keswick, Cumbria. We stayed for a week with Sue and Phil Harrison at Honister House in Keswick. They couldn't have been more helpful, whether it was providing ice for an American with hot flashes to making recommendations of what to see. The room was lovely, and the breakfast was terrific. They issue a free parking permit for two of the main Keswick parking areas, which was very helpful. Sue is warm, gracious and full of enthusiasm. They can be reached at Honister House, Keswick, Cumbria CA125DD and the phone # is 017687 73181. Their email is PhilandSue@aol.com
Andrew & Kathleen Wittenborn
Pleasantville,, NY   USA   04/13/04

Car Rental
Avis Car Rental no longer has an office in Bath.
Sean <email>
NC   USA   03/29/04

Stratford B&B/Guest House
Stratford-upon-Avon: Off-season, it's fabulous for Shakespeare groupies. As a solo traveller with no reservations, the great folks at the TI helped me find Peter and Ruth at the Ambleside Guest House. They were so kind! I took a single with toilet/shower just feet away for £25 per night, and I stayed for two! Breakfast was simple but delicious, and I got loads of great advice from Peter. Try Edward Moon's for a lovely supper.
Linda Haggerstone
Tacoma (via Fareham, UK), WA   USA   03/22/04

Warwick Castle
Warwick Castle was awesome, bring lunch and have a picnic between the Peacock gardens(with live Peacocks) and the Avon river in the shadow of the castle. Kids will love it too.
Guy
  USA   03/13/04

transportation to London from Heathrow
In your Great Britain 2004 (page 113) add the option of using National Express Buses from Heathrow directly to Victoria Station (very convenient for the Lime Tree Hotel). Cost is only $9 quids, but takes 75 min. (www.nationalexpress.com)
RicMoli <email>
New York, NY   USA   03/06/04

Free RAF museums
There is a free RAF museum at Hanford out the #6 tube from London. Except for the tube ride, it was free. The other one was RAF Cotsford in the West Midlands. The tour guides were outstanding. I bought the programs, 4 pounds each.
Bob Gorby <email>
Mt. Pleasant, MI   USA   02/08/04

Conwy, Wales
Anyone headed to Conwy, Wales will have a great time. It's a wonderful town, full of things to do and we found a great place to stay. The Castle Bank Hotel (www.castlebankhotel.co.uk) overlooks the castle and walls, plus has the nicest owners, who go out of their way to be helpful and friendly. Their food was excellent as well and this rates as one of our best memories after 3 weeks on the road around England, Wales, and Scotland. Enjoy!
Ann Slemmer <email>
Show Low, Az.   USA   02/07/04

Eating in Edinburgh
When in Edinburgh, avoid Deacon Brodie's Tavern on the Royal Mile. It was expensive, the service was unfriendly, and the food was mediocre at best (my fried camembert was still frozen and crunchy in the middle). The fudge shop down on the Holyrood end of the Mile was great!
Kathryn Hansen <email>
Macclesfield,    UK   02/04/04

RE: Train destinations
King's Cross: North East & Scotland; Paddington: Cornwall, Devon,Wales and South West; Waterloo: Central Southern England & Eurostar to Belgium & France; Victoria: South Eastern England incl Dover; St. Pancras: East Midlands and North via the East Coast; Euston: West Midlands & North via the West Coast.
Robin <email>
OH  USA   01/31/04

Train destinations
Trains: It would be helpful in London to know which train stations go to which general areas/cities in Britain.
Warren Rouse <email>
Malibu, CA   USA   01/31/04

[Editor's note: That information is found in the Introduction chapter at the bottom of the Britrail route map. For Rick Steves' London 2004 edition, this is on p. 19. It's also mentioned on p. 115 under the heading "Trains and Buses."]

New email for Bath hotel
For Woodville House in Bath, the new email address is matoalster@freenet.co.uk
Anne Toalster. Woodville House <email>
Bath, , n/a   UK   01/17/04

Western Britain: Bath, Dartmoor
Rick's Great Britain guide was highly helpful! Using it as a companion to his wonderful videos made for a perfect trip. His suggestion to use a day trip bus tour from London as transport to Bath was excellent. We used Golden Tours and had the good luck to have Salisbury added to our Stonehenge/Bath route. The recommendation for the Henry House B&B in Bath was great. Super nice people and fabulous breakfast!

With the book's small mention of the Dartmoor region, we planned a trip there minus a car - it can be done! Using the train and bus, it's a lovely excursion. Even before Rick added the village of Chagford to one of his tours, I had learned from his savvy know-how and found it. Stayed at the Linden Spinney B&B in Chagford, close to town with nice hospitality from our hosts Sue and Nigel Price. Visited during the low season and they offered transport support, hike routes and pub recommendations. www.LindenSpinney.co.uk

Also a very warm welcome and cozy atmoshere at local pub/B & B: the Ring O'Bells. Proprietors Gordon and Sharon are so polite. Their website is www.ringobellschagford.co.uk. Chagford is a quaint village with plenty of services and loads of charm. Thanks Rick for leading us to Dartmoor!

The information regarding Avebury and Glastonbury was most helpful in exploring these remote and mystical areas. We hired a driver in Bath for a half day trip to the mystic sites and planning ahead was key to maximizing our limited car tour.

Advice on booking UK train tickets from the US was invaluable. When Rick says do it early - do it! We waited 2 weeks and were disappointed even in the winter season with more expensive tickets. Thank you and cheerio!
Diane Cafasso <email>
Petaluma, CA   USA   01/04/04

Treetops B&B - Cotswolds
Hello, I just wanted to inform anyone that's thinking of traveling to the Cotswolds. In Moreton-in-Marsh at the Treetops B&B, Liz requires a three-night stay minimum.
Nick Vogel <email>
Sacramento, CA   USA   01/03/04