Rick Steves' Europe: Rick Steves' Europe Through the Back Door

Rick Steves'
Europe Through the Back Door: More Feedback

If you've traveled with this guidebook, please help us improve it for future travelers. How can it be more helpful and accurate? Did any recommended hotels, eateries, or sights disappoint you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?

Austria - Brigitte Lenglachner
Brigitte Lenglachner Salzberg 1.Directions in your book is incorrect! It must read: Take the road to the North-West and not North-East. It took us an hour to realise this! 2. Please take this place off your list! Our group of 5 booked in March 2005 and received a confirmation of the booking. We phoned to informed her of the arrival time. When we arrived there from a "long" walk in the wrong direction, we were given two very bad rooms in the basement. She disappeared until the next morning. We left and get other accommodation. Her excuse was that there is a big festival and people begged her for accommodation! This place do not deserve Rick Steves travellers.
Elsa Botha <email>
Ventersdorp, NW RSA Sun 05/29/2005

Cesky Krumlov hotel
We stayed at the Hotel Zlaty Andel in Cesky Krumlov, the Czech Republic. The rooms were clean and spacious, but the noise was intolerable. On a Friday night we were kept up past 2 a.m. by the noise at the hotel bar below, despite liberal use of sleeping pills and ear plugs. For $150, it was definitely not worth it. Take it off your list!!
Linda Geis <email>
Fort Collins, CO USA Thu 05/19/2005

Salzburg, Austria
We got back from our 3 week tour of Europe in Oct. of 04 using the 05 Europe Through the Back Door book. We had only wonderful experiences and were so happy to have the help and experience of Rick Steves. However we wanted to warn you about a hotel in Salzburg Austria called Junger Fachs. The people were nice, but the hotel is across from a church that had LOUD bells tolling the hours all night long. They told us they would stop after 10:00 but they never did. Also, the floor is so old that any movement in your bed will produce creaking sounds that actually wake you up. The ambiance was great, but if you actually want to get some sleep, I suggest a different hotel.
Jennifer Deskin <email>
Valley Center, ca USA Sat 05/07/2005

ETBD Handbook
I thought I was a savvy traveler, but I bought the ETBD handbook a few weeks ago and have learned a great deal from it. The trip we're planning to Eastern Europe in June will be greatly improved by many of the tips in this manual. Thanks, Rick. Unconditional recommendation!
Eric <email>
Missoula, MT USA Sun 03/20/2005

Cinque Terre, Italy
I read this book in detail prior to travelling Spain and Italy this past summer. One point that I would like to bring to your attention is your coverage of Cinque Terre, Italy. You commented you would not see a tourist in sight and only locals. Well perhaps that was written years ago and should be updated. We found nothing but tourists; even the staff were from elsewhere. Albeit the views were spectacular, the prices were high for the trails, beach area and the restaurants. Needless to say, after readying your book about Cinque Terre, I was extremely disappointed in the area.
Patti Field <email>
Calgary, AB Canada Mon 01/31/2005

Pension in Hallstatt
I just returned from staying in Hallstatt, Austria and it was awesome. We stayed at the Pension Tauchergasthof Hallberg (60-90 euro/room; hallberg@aon.at) and the owners Gerda and Eckbert Winkelmann were amazing. The rooms were spottless, the breakfast was excellent, and chatting with them a great experience. Eckbert is an expert on all of the hiking trails around the area and full of information about the town. Also many places in Hallstatt closed in mid to late October and this pension stays open almost year-round, except for a few weeks between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Just a pleasure being in Hallstatt with very few tourists and wonderful weather for the beginning of November.
Brandon Boesch <email>
Las Vegas, NV USA Fri 11/05/2004

Bloodsucking Lice and Scabies
Though I have been many places overseas, never was I plagued as we were with blood sucking lice and later found out infested with scabies. You best look these up. We were grateful as this happened at the end of our trip in Paris and not the begininng in Amsterdam. Yes, we followed 'Steves' recommended hotels et al throughout Europe. We were forgiven the two nights charges at the hotel and they relocated us to a hotel just around the corner where a current 'Steves' tour was staying and needless to say, that hotel would have to be immaculate. At that time we thought we were only suffering from lice bites and only after coming home did we discover the scabies. We hope the staff at our last hotel was not infected (and yes, we did write them a letter in warning).

I think that 'Steves' should have warnings concerning these unwanted pests, what they look like, and what the probable treatment would be included in his books. These are not "little" problems as these bugs can carry a miriad number of diseases and needs immediate treatment and that means finding a doctor who knows what these critters are. Those bites may not just be mosquitoes, friends. Methinks 'Steves' extremely popular and lucrative tourist industry doth have a few unwanted hitch-hikers on their coat-tails and needs a bit of shaking-out. Beware! Also, I thought the response e-mail from 'Steves' et al was a bit lame and industrial.
P Lindgren <email>
Seattle, WA USA Thu 11/04/2004

sleeping
Went to France/Italy and found the Rick Steves' books very helpful and appropriate. The estimated prices in the books for the suggested places for eating were however actually 10 to 30 euros higher. I'm guessing that the lag time between actual estimation to actual printing accounts for that, and one should never think of any book as being absolutely current. A good reason to buy a new book.
Russell Nealy <email>
Charlottesville, va USA Wed 09/22/2004

Much thanks to Rick for his insight,wisdom and humor. I went to Europe with the expectation of being treated poorly in Paris by the Parisians based on what I've heard from so many other travelers.

But, after reading Rick's discussion about attitude, not only did I not encounter any problems, I had many pleasant and productive exchanges with people. I have the highest regard for Rick Steves and what he's about.
Adam Harris <email>
Walnut Creek, ca USA Tue 09/21/2004

Brussels back door
Rick- After 3 trips to Europe now using your guidebooks 1 thing is clear - YOU DA MAN. When I recall my absolute best experiences, they are nearly all from your books, specifically the Cinque Terre. Gimmelwald, Amalfi, and now Talinn.

One new backdoor - in Brussels right off La Gran Place there is a marionette theatre and museum (Toone). Watched Carmen and even though I couldnt understand a word I loved it. Im a beer-drinking single guy and went with a girl I met on the train and it was GREAT. I know all your readers would really enjoy it.

La Gran Place with all its cafes nearby is great as well - worth 1 afternoon on a trip.
David <email>
Orlando, FL USA Sun 09/19/2004

BeNeLux
Family of 3 visited BeNeLux in June-04. Rick's book on Amsterdam ,Bruges and Brussels has been very helpful. Amsterdam left the greatest imprint in our memory and it is a one of those rare places you would like to see again. We highly recommend 2 days trip to Bruges. We stayed at Absoluut Verhulst. Frieda and Benno made us feel at home. Outstanding B@B from all respects. Opposite to 6 star hospitality at Verhulst, we ran into problems at Mozart Hotel in Brussels. Very loud Night Club, Mideastern atmosphere on the street make it difficult to sleep at night. Without going into other details,I personally would not recommend Mozart despite its great location in the heart of old city.

We wondered why low on great sights Brussels was selected as a Catital of EU Perhaps, because Marx and Engels wrote Communist Manifesto in there... Luxembourg was great 2 days side step. It is not in Rick's books. But it shows itself from the front door. Just come and see.
Boris N. <email>
Crofton, MD USA Tue 08/17/2004

That pesky pocket change
I would love to see Rick include the fact that most airlines collect your European change on the flight home for various charities. I have a special pocket in my carry on that I keep all my change in so that I can get it out in a moments notice. They collect thousands for many charities--usually children's ones. A nice way to give back to the countries you were visiting.
Randy Lawhon <email>
Forney, TX USA Thu 08/05/2004

Helpful
Initially helpful, but we didn't lug it in our daypack.We consulted this book before each city and tore out the few portions that applied.
rheann <email>
Corsicana, TX USA Fri 07/23/2004

Whirlwind Europe Tour
have just read Europe Through the Backdoor and a found in SO inspiring. I have a few questions. 1. Has anyone actually taken themselves on the Whirlwind Europe Tour suggested? 2. Any general comments? 3. Did you make any changes? 4. Did you find that you more or less stuck to 2 months? 5. What did you budget for it? (or more importantly, if you did it over, what WOULD you budget!) I am hoping to do it myself next year, but detour down to Morocco and possibly Greece. Any thoughts? Thanks heaps!
Ingrid <email>
Sydney, NSW Australia Tue 07/13/2004

Self Drive tour round Scotland
Hi - my family and I took a wonderful trip in June to Scotland through a small Scottish company based in the Highlands, called www.scotlandmadeeasy.co.uk Great and unusual niche quality accommodations with wonderful hosts who made us very welcome and who were most helpful as well. We hope to use them again if we can next year.Scotland Made Easy did all the work and took away all the stress with the organising!
Catriona Baxter <email>
San Francisco, CA USA Mon 07/12/2004

Alternative to Money Belts
As an alternative to a money belt, I purchased several travel shirts with zippered pockets hidden under velcro or buttons. The pockets are very deep and as inacessible as the money belt. The shirts are easily washed and hang dry overnight. I felt entirely secure at all times. The cost of the shirts, made by Sportif and others, can be greatly reduced by purchasing them at end of season from web sites such as Sierra Trading Post.
Jeff Poster
Arlington, TX USA Sat 07/10/2004

Bruges, Brussels & Amsterdam
We just used Rick Steves' Amsterdam, Bruges & Brussels on an 8 day trip to these cities and Delft with our 2 kids (10 and 7). It was an outstanding trip among many around Europe recently (kid friendly places) and the places Rick recommended were all good especially Hotel Cordoeanier in Bruges. The houseboat in Hotel Acacia was clean but in definite need of refurbishment and the toilet didn't always work.

A word of caution a bout renting bikes in Bruges. Ekar on Vlamingstraat is pushed in tourist offices but the prices posted aren't the prices charged (30 vice 20 Euros for a tandem bike a kid can ride with an adult) and the guy in the store closed and left an hour early (at 4) without telling us so we ended up being responsible for the bikes overnight and he didn't return until after 10 the next day so we couldn't go off sightseeing until later that day.
Vicki O'Keefe <email>
Naples, Italy Thu 07/01/2004

Turkey
Rick, We used your Europe Through the Backdoor in 2000 for France, Italy, Switzerland and it was great. My sister has used you as well and we tell all that we follow Rick. My family, 5 of us, just returned from a 1 week in Greece and 2 weeks in Turkey. I followed your tour itinerary as best I could and added my own pensions. It was great. Greece was so so. But, Turkey was tremendous. What a wonderful experience of history, beauty and very nice people. You need to lead the parade to Turkey. And, it is so much less expensive. Thanks for all your help.
Richard Reader <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA Sat 06/12/2004

Spanish Riding School, Vienna.
Wow, this is a fantastic way to spend a morning. I was there in March 2004 and the Bereiters were training their Lipizzaner horses to music. Young stallions were simply ridden. For anyone familiar with 'dressage movements' with older stallions they showed work in hand and practised ridden piaffes, courbettes, pirouettes, levades and caprioles. You dont have to be a rider to be enthralled by them. Just go along, chill to some classical music, sit back, enjoy the architecture and wonder in amazement how they acheive riding perfection. Dont go expecting to see a show - they are not a circus. They are not performing ponies. This is different. If you enjoy horses, this is the place for you. Unmissable.
karen Mackenzie
Manchester, Eng. Mon 06/07/2004

Following Rick's suggestions to a tee
This book is very good but should not be used as a "Bible". While many of Rick's suggestions for Hotels and Restaurants and towns are good, you can sometimes find even better gems venturing off on your own. It seems that in part due to Rick's popularity, many of his suggested haunts are packed with Americans toting his guide books. If you want to really experience local culture, take it a step further and not only wander off the beaten path by following Rick's advice, but also don't be afraid to wander off Rick's beaten path and try your own undiscovered places.
Anthony
Springfield, MO USA Fri 06/04/2004

Steve meets U2 in East Europe?
Hello, I am a fan of Rick Steve's Travels but an even bigger fan of the rock band U2! I just saw the Travels thru Europe Prague/ Budapest episode and I could have sworn I saw Larry Mullen JR, the drummer for U2, with short blonde hair and dark sunglasses, in a town square clapping his hands to local music. Can anyone confirm this?
Karen
Othello, WA USA Mon 05/17/2004

Making connections with locals
By accident I learned several years ago that reading a little of the history of the area you are going to visit may provide an instant connection to the population. While on a self-drive canal trip in the Midi, we stopped in Beziers. The cab driver explained to me that the demonstration we were seeing related to preservation of the culture of Languedoc and I remarked to my companions that the demonstrators may not yet have forgiven the sack of the city in 1209 by Simon de Montfort. The driver asked how I knew that (Junior medieval history) and then asked if we had some time to see the city. When we said yes he turned off the meter and took us around the town for about 20 minutes. He would not accept any payment at all but did agree to share a pastis.
Jeff Poster
Arlington, TX USA Fri 05/07/2004

Spanish Riding School
If you go to Vienna, skip the Spanish Riding School morning exercise. We spent three hours watching horses walk around an arena. What a waste of time!
Elizabeth Koditek
Wallhalben, Germany, USA 04/12/04

The Best Guide book out there
I am currently planning my third trip using "Europe Through the Back Door" supplimented by your regional guide{this time Scandinavia} They are fantastic On my first few trips to Europe I stayed in top end hotels and traveled in first class cars. I saw the same people I would see in LA or Miami or NYC Using your books I met the real people in the countries I was in and had a much better trip and saved money in the process. Your tips on visiting Rome saved me over 4 hours of waiting in line It is the only way to see Europe Too bad you dont have on on Asia or Soth America
Edward Nelson <email>
Franklin Lakes, NJ USA 02/22/04

Swiss accomodation
Just let you know of a great alternative to stay if your near Gimmelwald or the Lauterbrunen valley. Try the Alpenhof in Stechelberg, cool Ozzy couple run it ,very clean with a great kitchen,& cheap around 20francs a nightfor a private room
paul kelly <email>
seattle, wa USA 01/04/04

Handicapped traveling
The trains in Britain are handicapped accessable including the bathrooms. Most train stations are as well, where they aren't train people will help. Great way to go if you have trouble walking like me.
Judith Jones <email>
Spokane, WA USA 11/05/03

2003 Guidebooks and Europe through the Back Door
My friend and I took Europe through the Back Door, Great Britain 2003, and France 2003 with us on our trip. What was particulary helpful is that even though the listed B & B's/hotels were booked, we were guided to the reasonable B & B areas, so we had no trouble finding lodging. I also found it comforting to skim over Europe through the Back door when we were worn out and prone to feeling weird. Reading about tourists fleeing in terror from the "rapid pips" of public phones kept us calm and in a better frame of mind than we might have been, otherwise. We left our Europe through the Back Door with a group of Italians, whom I'm sure will enjoy reading this good attitude travel classic. One more thing--we saw other Rick-nicks on the train on the way to Arles, France. We struck up a conversation with them, compared travel notes, shared our picnic goodies, and had a wonderful ride together. This would not have happened without your books. Thank you so much!
Chris <email>
San Rafael, CA USA 10/21/03

Fabulous!
This has to be one of the most important books any traveler can read. It was invaluable when I spent 5 months living and traveling in Europe, and I recommend it to anyone I know going to Europe for the first time. "What would Rick Steves do?" became mine and my best friend's motto.
Liz Hoffman <email>
Chicago, IL USA 10/21/03

I have the ETBD 2003 & it's amazing.. it's so clear & so concise, However, my only discontentment is that the book is primarily written for Americans & their over-comfortable style of moving around. Being Indian & having been a keen traveler to many parts in Europe myself, it just needs a bit of self judgement & everything falls right into place. Really, there's nothging tin feel scared of. Also, you should start delivering your DVDs to India as well..
Surajit Mitra <email>
Mumbai, INDIA 08/11/03

Loved the book(s). Very helpful. In the index, it states you devote 6 pages (120-126) to gas (as in gasoline), but those pages are more automobile rental, international signs etc. (Which is necessary information) You might add a section about the cost of gas and which countries offer gas at a more reduced price. We noticed that Luxembourg and the Czech Republic offered gasoline at about 30% cheaper than France, Germany or Netherlands.Definitely worth filling up in those two countries - which we did.
Jacquie Schattner <email>
Palatine, IL USA 08/05/03

I recently checked out from the library a past year's version of this book. I live in Germany while my husband is stationed here with the US Army. I have lived here over a year, and still learned lots of interesting things from his book. I plan to buy the newest version of his book now. I also want to get his city guides, and book on Germany.
Robin <email>
APO, AE USA 07/12/03

Prague taxis
So, you're one of these know-all American "If it's Thursday it must be Prague" experts who thinks they know it all about Prague taxis - let me just put you straight about something. Before even mentioning taximeters, you should negotiate the price first. If the driver even mentions taximeter - leave well alone!!!!!! Taxis standing in front of reputable hotels are generally on the level so always look to them first. Occasionally you will find a taxi on the street who's OK but the same rule applies - tell him where you want to go and negotiate a price - DO NOT EVER GET INTO A TAXI WITHOUT DOING THIS!!!! Remember, not all Prague taxi drivers are crooks and avoid those hanging round popular tourist areas.
Amanda Kopsova <email>
Edinburgh/Prague, UK 07/03/03

indispensible!
Thank you thank you thank you!!! My mom and I travelled through Europe for a month in May 2003. Your books were indispensible. We bough the ETBD, Paris, Italy, Germany/Austria/Switzerland 2003 books. I used them to plan our itineary and make hotel reservations before leaving, then used them every day once in Europe. We had 1.5 days in Brussels at the end of our trip and I didn't buy the book, figuring it wasn't a long enough stay to be worth the cost - boy was I wrong!! After 3 weeks of traveling with RS, we were so lost without book to guide us! To make the books lighter, I cut them up before leaving, only taking along the sections we needed. I punched holes along the edge and bought some loose binder rings to bind them together... while traveling, I'd reorganize pages daily, only carrying along a ring with that day's info. My next trip will be to Australia/New Zealand - please consider publishing a book covering these places too!! Thanks again.
Sonia <email>
Saskatoon, SK Canada 06/19/03

Europe Through the Back Door - Gimmelwald, Switzerland
For those heading to Switzerland, Rick is RIGHT ON with his recommendation for Gimmelwald! Our stay at Walter's Mittaghorn Hotel was one of the highlights of a 3 1/2 week honeymoon around Europe. The area was great, and filled with endless activities and diversions! Thanks for a great back door recommendation!!
Jonathan & Andrea Atkinson <email>
Scotts Valley, CA USA 06/09/03

Tiny Greek Isle
The Greek isle of Folegandros is a very good choice to visit. Go from Santorini in the Cyclades. I was the sole traveler there in March of '91 and 20 countries later, still regard it as a major highlight. More hotels have apparently gone up since. Suggest off-season if at all possible. They say its awesome in October.
Gregg LaMarsh <email>
Toronto, ON Canada 03/30/03

ETBD 2003
My younger sister and her high school band are traveling to Great Britain and France in two weeks, and the ETTBD book has been VERY helpful in easing her fears of traveling overseas in this time of turmoil and in aiding her packing. Especially helpful is the checklist of major things to bring along. We have had fun tailoring the back doors to fit her large school band itinerary. She will not have much time to sightsee, and so we've been carefully dismantling the Great Britain and London guidebooks so that she can see Europe through more than the eyes of a young American.
Janine Holley <email>
Gilbertsville, PA USA 03/30/03

Europe Through the Front Door
Dear Rick Steves, thank you very much for this book. I used it almost as a Bible for my trip to Europe, traveling with my wife & 2 kids. We would recommend this to all independent travelers trying to save money in Europe. Travel within Europe is very easy (which I did not know before reading your book) and going by rail is fun.
Dr. Nitin Bhandare <email>
Mumbai, Mah India 03/22/03

Rick's Europe Book
My daughter and I took your Europe book with us to Austria last summer and we used it every day. When I returned home I left it with my daughter to use. She stayed as a student in Vienna until December 25th. She put it to good use for all of her weekend travels, both in and out of Austria. She loved it! As she was usually in a city for only 2 days, it was very helpful in planning her day so she could see the best of the city and sights.
Helen Mamic <email>
Puyallup, WA USA 03/19/03

Self Planning Trips
This is our first trip to Europe, so we decided to start in Paris. Rick's tips on packing light and living in local neighborhoods has made our stay here a fantastic growiing experience for us both. We found and booked a private apartment in St Germain des Pres on a tiny little street within walking distance of all the main sights. got a carnet of Metro tickets and a museum pass and have been living a dream. Thank You Rick, your experience and insight has made this a one of a kind adventure!!!
Randy and Linda Kerr <email>
Powell Butte, OR USA 03/05/03

Europe through the back door
This book is FANTASTIC! It is the perfect read for the novice traveler. Full of great tips and even a little humor. Mona winks is also a good resource when your short on time.
Vanessa <email>
Richmond, bc ca 02/27/03

ETBD 2003
We are leaving for Europe in March 2003 and purchased ETBD 2003 & Germany, Austria & Switzerland 2003 and they are both wonderful books and so much valuable info in them. Rick, your fun and bubbly personality makes me sit for hours reading them. I know with these two books our first trip to Europe will be a fun and exciting time. So glad we got the books.
Shirley Schreiber <email>
Buchanan, MI USA 01/30/03

Bacharach Lettie
It seems I must come to the defense of poor Lettie. I visited Bacharach two years ago and ended up at Lettie's after one of Rick's tours filled the Kranenturm. Lettie runs a pension, not a hotel, and I suspect that sometimes her job(s) can get to be too much. I stayed offseason and there was no problem at all with anything. I'd return in a shot. I ate twice at the Kranenturm. The river trout with almonds was so good the first time that I had it again!
Don Stadler <email>
London, UK 01/22/03

Less than GREAT rooms
Just returned from a 5 week trip which was wonderful! Stayed with many families and rooms listed in Rick Steves books with much success. However,with everything there are sometimes disappointments. First was in Bacharach,Germany at Pension Lettie's. As the book suggested the place was less than clean, we expected messy but were willing to stay because Lettie was supposed to be so much fun! Lettie was alright,but I would put the cleanliness of the room in the unacceptable catagory. Our two connecting rooms, had holes all over the walls, filthy bathroom, and very uncomfortable beds. We would not reccomend this to anyone.

Second was Gimmewald. We stayed with Marie & Olle Eggimann (the schoolteachers) The kitchenette itself was spotless and very upscale nice! No complaints with this, however, we stay at zimmers to get to know the people and culture,as this is the best way to get familiar with a new city. The rude nature in which we were treated made us feel like we were an unwelcomed presence at all times!!! We would see Maria walking outside the house and she would turn and walk away. Olle is FAR from friendly and makes it clear that he lives here and you are a mere paying guest. Not to mention the lovely notes pinned up all over the room. (Don't leave a dirty kitchen, don't take more than a 2 minute shower, don't walk in our home with shoes on, don't turn up the heat...etc. At $280.00 SF a night this was a little irritating. There are some really nice people in this town, and great places to stay. I just wouldn't reccomend Maria and Olle because I would rather stay in a home that reflects the beauty of the town. Our trip was fabulous and the huge amount of wonderful places we stayed, and the lovely people we met far outweigh these 2 places. But we would like to save others the bother of having a bad day in Europe. Thanks

Lisa MCCLuskey <email>
sacramento, CA USA 11/21/02

Venice/Florence/Rome Tips
Date of Trip November 1st-November 13th. For our second trip to Italy, we decided to supplement our own knowledge and experience by reading Rick's Best of Europe 2002. The book proved to be invaluable. Great insight into hotels, and best sights to see. We used two of the recommended hotels, and because I found this message board so useful in finding just the right place to stay, I'd like to share our feedback.

In Venice, we stayed at the Al Piave. Perfectly located, and the right price at 100 Euros per night, we couldn't have been happier with the price, location or the service. Rooms were small, but quite manageable for two adults. Breakfast was just okay in that fruit was canned, and rolls were somewhat stale. Coffee was good and at the rate we were paying, who could complain? We took Rick's advice and ate at Restaurant Raphael, and we were both disappointed. Like many of the restaurants in Venice, it caters to mostly tourists, and the food was average at best. In fact, the best eats in Venice were found in small cafes and bakeries. My best food advice about Venice is to come with no expectations, as much of the cuisine is out of focus with the rest of Italy.

We stayed in the Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta in Florence, and the hotel itself is so unique and charming that we were taken in by everything about it. While the hotel, and room were worthy of praise, two things stuck as being somewhat of concern and should be taken into account by future travellers. First, the location which is slightly off the mark (although nothing in Florence is too out of the way, no matter where you stay) and offers a bit of a challenge at night in that the street in front of the hotel is not well lit and there is little else around the hotel in the way of cafes or restaurants. With breakfast not included in the rate of 140 Euros per night, this presented a bit of a challenge.

Also, while our room was incredible in its size (room 30), and the ceiling and veranda were worthy of the price of admission, there was a faint, but very noticeable smell of sewage eminating from the room. We were not sure of the origin, but it persisted all three days of our stay. It was bad, but certainly not so bad that we switched hotels or would give the place a thumbs down. It's just something to think about.

One place to dine, for a terrific and tasty lunch is Mario's, a true local joint filled with locals and short on menus and English. We ate there twice and both times our meal was well under $20. This included wine, water, first and second courses for each, as well as dessert. You can't beat it, especially when the food is this good.

Finally two things about Rome. Rick's Alla Rampa recommendation is a great one. In fact, having been to Rome before, we knew of it well and were pleased that he noticed it, especially because it is in such a tourist-oriented area. For an update, it is still as good as always. Also, we found a hotel worthy of mention called the Hotel Del Corso. Only two years old, we were able to secure a suite for around 130 Euros per night. Two rooms, two TVs and and a better than average size bathroom. The location was excellent and the decor, which was relatively new, reminded me of an old engligh B&B. The service was excellent, and for the money we found it to be an excellent find and want to pass it along.

One thing about Rick's book when it comes to Rome, the section on sights does not do the city justice. Spruce it up next time, and add some of the less popular sights. Also mention that two of the most incredible Rome sights, the Forum and the Pantheon are free. These two places and a trip to Alla Rompa make a trip to Rome highly worth it any day! Thanks and happy travels.

Jennifer Fratto <email>
Colts, Neck, NJ USA 11/18/02

General guidebook suggestions
I would suggest having information in your books for travelers with various disabilities. For example, my future father-in-law is blind, and we found out that at the Tower of London, the guides have plastic sheets with raised outlines of the crown jewels that you can feel in order to get an idea of what the jewels look like. Wheelchair accessibility should also be listed when you list transportation, sights, hotels, restaurants, etc., right along with whether or not they take credit cards. Someone in a wheelchair in the US would probably be interested in finding out if many buses or metro stations are wheelchair-accessible, etc. If you're describing your Historical Paris Walk, you could mention whether there are any parts that aren't accessible. People with disabilities are Back Door travelers, too. Also, when are you going to put out guidebooks for other destinations (Slovenia, Poland, Turkey, etc.)? I'm anxiously awaiting those!
Traci <email>
Studying in London, UK 11/10/02

[Editor's note: Rick's accessibility book--covering London, Paris, Bruges, Amsterdam, the Rhine, and Frankfurt--will probably be published early in 2004. If you have a tip for Rick about accessible travel, please post it under our "Acessible Europe" board. Watch for more information about this new title at www.ricksteves.com later this year].

Smoke-Reduced Travel
I would like to suggest a guidebook designed for those of us who have difficulty with smoke. I accept the fact that Europeans have a different perspective on this issue, and I have no intention of being an Ugly American. However, I become very ill when around smoke. In the US, I adjust my life around the problem, but I don't know how to mkae these adjustments in Europe. I would gladly pay for a supplemental guidebook that would help me to minimize the amount of smoke that I will be subjected to. I want to learn to politely and discreetly find places where I can breathe freely. I'm not out to change Europe, only to find the places that I am able to truly enjoy. Surely Rick could help?
Meritaten <email>
Tucson, AZ USA 10/31/02

Your Book
Just got back (last evening) from my first trip to Europe...my Europe through Back Door book was immeasurably helpful. Thanks!
Bob Workman <email>
McAlester, OK USA 10/28/02

Ripping out of guidebooks
I leave tomorrow and have taken ETTBD to heart (adjusting, of course, for the fact that I'm going in fall/winter, so "packing light" has taken on new meaning!) I especially loved the suggestion of ripping up a variety of travel guides. I was in the process of making my own "travel journal" by ripping out secions from different guides, punching holes in the, and putting them in a mini-three ring binder along with paper, to create a true travelogue, when I discovered one thing: The hardest guidebooks to deconstruct were Rick's! Out of the three brands of travel guides I ripped, the hardest to get the pages out and the hardest to staple/punch holes in were from the very guy from whom I got the idea. For the publishers, perhaps changing the type of glue used? It was very durable, I guess is good if you're taking the whole book, but not if you're a Rick fan who just wants the section on Toledo, but not Granada (I ripped the Spain/Portugal book as well as the Germany/Austria book). Otherwise, Globe Pequot books and Rough Guides are really easy to deconstruct! And putting them into one of those mini-3 rings is a little more durable (though a little more bulky) than just having the tear outs.
Kate <email>
Mamaroneck, NY USA 10/08/02

rick-style hong kong visit
rick's ideas worked well in hong kong, too. we (3 adults and 14 h.s. students, 2 of them african-american) rode all forms of public transit, stayed in a ymca hotel that was used almost totally by asians and enjoyed an inexpensive noodle shop recommended by the concierge (once he believed that we truly wanted to eat someplace that he'd go on his day off). while we got a few curious looks, we encountered no hostile looks or words, though we looked about as "american" as it's possible to do (especially while in polos-and-khakis uniform en route to a gig). like rick, we believe in knowing and using the basic courtesy words and smiling a lot.
ellen
indiana, USA 08/03/02

ETBD
I would like to see your guidebooks (as well as all other author's guidebooks) list a month & yr. that the lodging or restaurant was last visited by the author, or the author's representative. That way I know how old the information is.
DAVID SASSCER <email>
CAMPBELL, CA USA 07/27/02

Love that ETBD
I have to say ETBD is one of my favorite travel books. Every year before I travel I re-read the book. I have been through it about 6 or 7 times. I guess I re-skim it because it's fun. It gets me in the mood for the next trip and prepares me for the ups and downs of travel.
JoeInDt
Denver, co USA 07/24/02

Athens and Classical Greece Tours
Just came back from Athens and surrounding area. Instead of driving (not recommended!) or signing up for impersonal bus tours, my two children and I hired www.greek-taxi-tours.gr. Fantastic. Everything we were looking for in a guide and transportation (how can you beat an air conditioned Mercededs E 300??). Petros Petrou was a delight...so knowledgeable, energetic, flexible. He treated us to the best of Athens and then added some out of the way, gorgeous scenery by Mycenae and Corinth. We even saw the luxury yachts in the Greek shipyards. Biggest advantage: my kids (17 and 21) loved him. And the price? Cheaper than the bus tours when we added it all up. Do yourself a favor. E-mail: info@greek-taxi-tours.gr.
Sally Morgenthaler <email>
Centennial, CO USA 06/30/02

All over Europe with 4 kids for 10 weeks!
My family and I just got back from a 10+ week trip to Europe (Italy, Austria, Germany, Czech Republic, Luxembourg, Belgium, Netherlands, France, Ireland and England) using a lot of Rick's suggestions. We have 4 children ages (10,8,6,5) so we have great info focused on families and current prices etc. We traveled mostly by rail and public transport, but rented cars as well. Drop us a line if you have any questions as there is just way to much to write. We would love to help.
Mike <email>
Denver, CO USA 06/03/02

ETBD 2002
Love it! Love it! I read it out loud to my husband and we can't wait to go...
AB
Fort Worth, TX USA 04/24/02

Great Guide
ETTBD is the best travel guide I have read! Everything you ever want to know about traveling in Europe is explained (very humorously) in this travel guide. It's easy and fun to read. After reading about Steves' adventures, I feel prepared. I can't wait for my summer in Europe!
Christine Hayes <email>
North Potomac, MD USA 03/13/02

"C" is for soup
I loved reading ETBD, but I had to laugh when I read the section on taking showers (p. 154 in the 2002 edition). Rick says, "In Italy and Spain, "C" is caldo, or hot." In Spanish, "hot" is "caliente". "Caldo" is soup!
Pantufla <email>
Bellevue, WA USA 03/11/02

Meeting Locals
Europe Through the Back Door is great for travel tips and we used it extensively when we went to Spain and Paris last year, even though part of the time, we used our (Perish forbid, the "T" word) Time Share. However, I sense Rick has a bit of the liberal Europhile agenda, which borders on propaganda.

I have been to Europe before, and was not shy about arguing with European social democrats about their problems with our leaders and political-economic system, reminding them that theirs are not without flaws. Some could take it, and others couldn't. The point is, not all Europeans are people you really want to get to know, just as there are some Americans I don't care to know.

I sense Rick almost apologizes for being American, and bends over backwards to avoid the "Ugly American" brand. Maybe he should try dealing with European tourists in NY and FL, some of whom make the most stereotypical American tourist look good. As for his warnings about overtipping being "Ugly American", I was a waiter when I was young, and I know of no server who ever resents getting more money. I get big smiles and sincere thanks when I tip. Of course, I don't throw it in their faces, figuratively speaking.
P. Miano <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA 03/06/02

Credit and ATM Cards
I'm leaving tomorrow on my first trip to Europe. I appreciate the instructions for using credit cards and ATMs. A friend of mine who is a well-seasoned traveler suggested I call customer service for my cards for two reasons: (1) To tell them not to be surprised when "unusual" (meaning out of US) charges appear which might cause them to put a block on the card. (2) To get their international customer service phone numbers for reporting lost or stolen cards. (The regular US toll-free numbers won't work from Europe.) I suggest you add these two recommendations to the Europe Through the Back Door guidebook and to your country and city guidebooks.
Timothy Solberg <email>
Minot, ND USA 03/06/02

London, France, Italy
We spent one week in each country and used Rick's "places to sleep" for two weeks and then were on our own for a few days just in case his perception of things were different than ours. Now I know that his books are carefully researched and that his observations are keen and insightful. We had the best time, beginning at Brock's Guest House in Bath and ending at a convent in Rome. Thanks for opening the door for us Rick.
Debbie MacLeod <email>
Morningside, Alberta, Canada 02/15/02

CROATIA?
I loved the book, i read it twice before leaving for 4 1/2 months in europe, after traveling for a while i began to check out the "back-doors" section, one thing i noticed is that it was lacking in info on budapest and all of croatia, also not too much about the czech republic (there is more than praha you know, czeck out chesky krumlov, a great small backbacker town). anyway thanks for the great book, rick, and keep those ideas in mind. k.s.
kialah s. <email>
boulder, co 02/09/02

bad web link
This web link on your web site is no longer valid: Premiant City Tours http://www.sos.cz/premiant).
rc <email>
USA 01/16/02

[Editor's Note: The new web address is http://www.premiant.cz/.]

LOVE the guidebook!
As an avid viewer of Rick's TV series "Rick Steves' Travels in Europe", I thought it might be useful to buy his "Europe Through the Back Door" book. I literally COULD NOT put it down! I finished it in one sitting, and I was begging for more! I've never had such a useful guidebook, and the fact that it doesn't have the usual touristy garbage makes it even more wonderful. I said goodbye to my 1,000 page Fodor's guidebook and made way for my new Rick Steves' book. Thanks, and keep on traveling!
Victoria
Los Angeles, CA USA 10/27/01

ETBD Book
I got Europe through the Back Door back in 1998 and when getting ready for my trip this fall got the 2001 book. I do not care how many times I go to Europe I will alway's read this book just for the tips, I alway's pick up something I missed or forgot each time I read the book. The tips are great. One wonderful tip was getting a phone card to call home from the news stands. We made the misstake and got a regular card the first time and didn't have much time. The second time we got a International card and we were able to talk for and hour for about $5. This in it's self paid for the book. This book is great for general travel But I did find for more detail and options to get the books for each area. I will never leave home without a Rick Steves book. Or just the chapters needed.
Wendy <email>
Brooklyn Park, MN USA 10/20/01

Guide book
As regards the book "Europe through the back door" I have used it for three different trips to Deutchland and surrounding countries and found it "indispensable". When I first read it I laughed (It is a little bit entertaining as well as practical) but, when we took it along in 1999, I was glad to have it. We stayed in several of the places mentioned in the book and even put many of the ideas Rick propounds to good use. One I have to laugh at was the idea of purchasing the compass that is available on this web sight. My wife thought I was nut, until we began to depend on it to negotiate through some of the larger cities like Frankfurt, Achan, Munich, and Wurtzburg. On a couple of cloudy days when we couldn .t tell where the sun was we felt like boyscouts happy to tell which way was North. We try to get an updated one every so often and appreciate the latest info on Pensions and restaurants. Dave Bridenbaugh Cincinnati Ohio
Dave Bridenbaugh <email>
Cincinnati, Oh USA 10/12/01

Rick Steves' books and his show are wonderful tools for anyone planning a trip. My husband spent months planning a trip to England and France for us, his 80-year-old parents and our daughter and her new husband. He followed many of Rick's suggestions from museum passes to trains to public transportation to times of day to visit certain sites. Every tip he gave provided wonderful rewards. My husband's parents were so impressed by the fact that by using Rick Steve's tips, my husband was able to get us into crowded attractions at the front of the line instead of waiting the sometimes hours in the long lines. The packing tips paid off too. We took one backpack with a zip-off daypack attached to it and one small suitcase on rollers per person. On the trip over to Europe we were able to take all our luggage on board without checking a thing. This enabled us to not only have access to our things during the long flight, but we didn't have to wait in line at the airport awaiting our luggage. I could go on and on about all the helpful tools we got from Rick Steve's books and his show every Sunday. If you can imagine taking a multi-generationaly family group on a 16 day vacation, there are many, many things to take into consideration and my husband was able to figure it all out using Rick Steve's books and tips from his show. This is the second year my husband and I have used Rick Steve's information for our vacations and we have not been disappointed. Last year we went to Austria, Northern Italy and Germany and we used his travel information in every country. Again, his tips made our trip so much easier and very enjoyable.
Cliff & Cathy Naifeh <email>
Norman, OK USA 08/22/01

Rick,When I was in Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber, Germany I found a fantastic gallery that sells the finest paintings and etchings. The women who owns the shop makes you feel right at home,speaks lovely english and she is very appreciative of your business. I think she was one of the nicest business owners in Rothenburg. The name of the gallery is Galerie zum Burgtor. Herrngasse 22 Rothenburg. Telephone 09861-93-67-04. Also, the tour with your neighbor and Robert Becchi was wonderful.
Helen Kaplan <email>
Ft.Collins Co., co USA 07/30/01

We love to watch Rick Steves traveling in Europe so much on PBS that I wrote my PBS station and told them to switch our "Thank you gift" from Clifford to "Europe Through the Back Door." I am nearly finished and enjoying the book as well as the memories of many traveling adventures we have had over the years. We have never actually traveled to Europe (my husband's parents are both from the Netherlands and he had Europe on his "dream sheet" in the military.) but hope to get there some day. It appears traveling "Through the Back Door" is very similar in the places we have been ....Panama, Costa Rica, Mexico, Japan, Korea and yes even here in the US. Now we are finally settling down in the VERY foreign Northeastern Pennsylvania and I am enjoying traveling vicariously with Rick!
Peggy van Hemert <email>
Shavertown, PA USA 07/23/01

As a serious amateur photographer I have some comments on the Travel Photography section. One major warning this section does not contain concerns X-ray damage to film. The machines used today to check airline carry ons are much better and should not damage your film. However, the machines used for airline checked luggage are much more powerful and will damage your film. For air travel, carry your film with you and, if you are conservative like me, get it hand checked where allowed. This sections also recommends a 28-70 mm or 80 mm lens as the best all-around. That was true 5 or 10 years ago. Today there is a good selection of 28 - 200 mm lenses which are light and small. This gives you the ability to get small details, distant castles, or that unobserved people shot. I agree that 400 speed print film is good, but 400 speed slide film unfortunately does not begin to compare to the quality of 100 speed slide film. I do use 400 speed slide film to get those museum shots where flash is not allowed and cathedral interiors, but otherwise I use 100 speed slide film to get quality photographs.
Robert Sheldon <email>
Reading, PA USA 07/03/01

I must be doing something right as my costs for a 30 day trip to France were much less than those given in this book. The total cost of the trip for my wife and myself, including air fare and car rental, was $5432 for the both of us. This compares to Rick's estimate (page 133) of $3800 per person for one month which does not include air fare. We generally stayed at hotels (no hostels) and ate at restaurants in Rick's 2001 France guidebook. Our rental car cost was about 1/2 his estimate of $500 per week. We had the car for 24 days (5 days were spent in Paris without a car) and spent a total of $817 which is an average of $251 per week. This cost consisted of: $441 rental cost for a compact car without the CDW; $290 for gas; $58 for tolls; and $28 for parking. Does the high estimate reflect Rick's bias towards train travel?
Robert Sheldon <email>
Reading, PA USA 07/03/01

Hi! My wife and I just returned from a four week, six country, tour of Europe. We used several of Rick's books, including ETBD. We followed Rick's advice in every country and never regretted anything. The ONLY downfall was that many americans were following the same Rick Steves' path as we were, especially in Cinque Terra. My favorite story from our trip came in Venice as we were searcing for a laundrymat to wash our clothes. We followed Ricks suggestions regarding "convient laundry centers", in his travel book for Italy, and went to a do-it-yourself laundry that Rick described as "new and updated". We spent a few minutes trying to locate the shop, the evening before, and promptly found it just where Rick said it would be. We wandered in...scoped out the types of coins needed, and checked out their hours for our return visit the next day. Noticing that the place was VERY FULL of americans doing laundry, I asked the manager what would be the best time the next day to return? He replied in broken english...., "It no matter! Maybe you'a come'a about'a nine'a or'a ten'a...or maybe'a you could'a come'a about'a one'a or'a two'a...or some'a time'a after that'a. It really no'a matter.....Maybe'a you'a come'a about a eleven, (he said enthusiastically), and'a everybody else come'a like'a you! It no matter!" So with that in mind, we got up early the next morning and walked the quarter mile over to his shop to find it closed. We were to busy laughing to be upset. :-) We quickly pulled out Rick's book and marched across the city to a different laundry center run by a sweet little old man. He pushed his ancient cat off the ironing board and spoke one of the three phrases he knew in English, (he choose the one we were most wanting to hear)... "Wash and fold"! Happy Travels!
David Jennings <email>
Dallas, TX USA 06/17/01

My family & I just returned from a 3 week trip through Greece & Italy. I have to wonder why Rick has such a negative opinion about Greece. We found Athens to be very interesting & actually more relaxing than it's Italian counterpart - Rome. Although Rome was wonderful, Athens was much cheaper, had friendlier people & was much more romantic and enjoyable at night. Their metro system is also far superior to Romes's. Eating dinner outside in Plaka with a view of the Acropolis is one of my favorite memories of the trip. The Greek islands were also wonderful. Rick, give Greece another try!
Al <email>
Castro Valley, CA USA 06/06/01

Sorry; dont know if this has already come to your attention or not but we are in Brugge and the Memling Museum is closed for renovation; also Maitre Chocolate Verbeke has closed its doors after 27(?) years there is a note posted sqying goodbye to everyone. Lots of scaffolding everywhere in preperqtion for some big todo in 2002, but it does not decreqse our enjoyment of Brugge one jot. cheers robertbundy
robert bundy <email>
lq, cq USA 05/29/01

We just got back from a "if this is Belgium, it must be Tuesday" Trafalgar tour. Rick's books saved our trip and enhanced our European experience. Through the Back Door tips helped us by-pass the leather factory and diamond polishing to enjoy the neighboring areas in Amsterdam and Florence and while others were glassy eyed looking at a statue in Salzburg, we were up the mountain and eating lunch at the palace with a grand view of the surrounding mountains and valley. The Best of Euope, Europe 101, Paris, and Mona Winks saved us hours of drifting in museums and the language books helped us become more accepted by the locals in Amsterdam, Germany, Austria and Italy-lots of luck in Paris-Using local tranportation, buses and subways, water taxis and cabs added so much enjoyment to our wanderings in new places. One memory was being mistaken-on a Lake Lucerne boat-as being local Swiss--a guide for some business men started addressing us in German and could not believe we were Americans-"They dress funny and are loud!!" we were just trying to fit in. -At home we are loud and dress funny. Next trip it will be a week or so in one place, maybe a RS bed and breakfast--but we had a ball--Thanks Rick for your great books and advise.
Richard Bienduga <email>
Alexandria, VA USA 05/25/01

My cousin, his wife, my wife and I recently returned from an outstanding month long tour of Europe. We had Rick Steves Europe books with us and they aided in making our trip a memorable one. We flew into Frankfurt, picked up our car and headed for a stay in Rothenburg. We stayed at the HOTEL- RESTAURANT GOLDENES PASS. Our stay was wonderful and accomodations very good. Our next stay was in Salzburg, Austria, at the PENSION BERGLAND. It was good and excellently located to walk the old city. From there we located near Vienna, Austria, and used the HOTEL SOPHIENALPE as our base to visit Vienna and the surrounding areas. We boarded a nearby tram into the city center, thus avoiding driving in the city. Again, accomodations were good and people very friendly. Leaving Vienna, we traveled to the small, but beautiful, country of Slovenia, staying at the MOTEL OLYMP in Polzela, Slovenia. It was perfectly located to travel the short distances to all corners of Slovenia. the proprietor of MOTEL OLYMP, David Lesnik, was an absolute jewel as a host and "tour director." He, with his father, Michael, saw that our every need was taken care of. In addition to the most modern and wonderful accomodations (rooms, breakfasts, etc.), they saw to it that we met many wonderful people of Slovenia (artists, winery owners, tour guides, etc.), who really gave us a picture of Slovenia. In many instances, David took time from his busy schedule and classes to take us to wonderful Slovenian sites that most tourists would not have the opportunity to see. We extended our stay in Slovenia to take advantage of the opportunities before us. Sadly leaving Polzela (and David's hospitality), we traveled to Bled, Slovenia and a relaxing stay at the HOTEL ASTORIA. Like the others, accomodations were good and people most gracious. Our next stop took us to Munich, Germany. While there, we stayed at the PENSION SEIBEL. Our rooms were small but comfortable, however, the location near the city center was great. We then spent a few days in Baden-Baden, Germany, staying at the HOTEL DEUTSCHEL KAISER. Wonderful meals were served and our hosts were most helpful in giving directions to areas nearby. Our next extended stay was at the HOTEL-RESTAURANT VAILLANT in Selestat, France. It served as a great place to travel from and visit the wine route and many nearby sights. We concluded our Europe travel with a stay in the Mosel River Valley. We stayed at the HANS GRETEL EBERHARD PENSION in Zell-Mosel, Germany. Our hosts, Ewald and Gretel Eberhard were absolutely wonderful and opened their place to us (and a few bottles of wine as well). From Zell, we traveled back to Frankfurt and prepared for our return trip back. Our Europe tour (and many suggestions by Rick Steves) made our trip a most wonderful visit with many memories that will long be cherished.
William M. Barber <email>
Dallas, OR USA 05/23/01

I disagree with Rick on one item of his pack light philosophy. In the 2001 Europe TBD book he recommends that men take only one pair of shoes (he does include a second pair for women). Sorry, but my feet sweat so much that I must rotate at least two pairs of shoes or they become -- well very unpleasant. Also, if I get caught in a rainstorm (which has happened to me while traveling more than once), having to put on wet shoes the next morning is the pits.
Robert Sheldon <email>
Reading, PA USA 05/18/01

Rick's approach and philosphy are good. However, some things have to be said. With throngs of tourists visiting Europe with his guidebooks (with the torn our sections of his guide books) I question if the back door is still open and easy to pass through. Rick's books have reached the point where they are like reading an article entitled "The 10 Quaint Secret Hotels in Vienna". Yeah. Sure. How can they be secrets if they are published in big time tavel magazines? The best reason for reading Rick's books are to pick up on his philophy and then apply it to one's own travel. Otherwise we will face crowded sights full of "Ricksters" waving thier RS Books abouts. Or, one could wait for a world wide economic recessions. That would also reduce the crowds.
Raul <email>
seattle, WA USA 05/10/01

Gary is absolutely right. Rick's back-door approach is the best way to enjoy and learn about places and people--without going broke. I know people who brag about being well-traveled, when in reality they took cruises or other trips where they were in each country for a day or two, and then it was the tourist-trinket market near the port, or the boutique and restaurant neighborhood in the capital city.
Carol
CA USA 05/02/01

I am a true convert - a disciple of the Back Door philosophy. I now preach the virtues of packing light, living like locals and getting off the beaten path.

My son and I spent a month trekking through England, France and Italy on $150 per day and three outfits apiece. Every tourist we ran into was either carrying a Rick book or was amazed that we were carrying all our necessaries in "that tiny bag." People look through our albums and comment about seeing us in the same clothes in so many photos - I laugh and proudly tell them how quickly those items dry when you wash them out in your hotel sink.

On a train, we met an American woman and her young son who boldly told us that their first-class L.A. to London flights cost nearly $8K. I laughed and told her that was twice our budget for the entire month - and we were seeing a whole lot more for our money.

I love sharing stories about our trip with anyone who will listen. They are always more fascinated about the little, back door locations than they are about the big city, "everyone-goes-there" places. My son loves telling people about the little Italian village where eating gelato and swimming in the bay were the highlights of the day. I'll always remember the policeman in Siena who taught us how to play a local version of marbles, the corner grocery in Paris where we bought crepes and waffles each morning, the pizza place where we felt like locals (ate there three times), and the older gentleman who tried in vain to teach me a regional card game.

I've had many friends who have taken those "if it's Tuesday this must be Belgium" tours - and they are always so impressed at how much we saw, how little it cost and how much fun we had. Europe Through the Back Door made our "once-in-a-lifetime" trip memorable and affordabe. But more importantly, it changed our attitude toward travel. We are now heading out for our next "trip-of-a-lifetime" this summer. Thanks so much for all your help and encouragement. We could have done it without you, but I'm glad we didn't.
Gary <email>
Hanford, CA USA 04/23/01

It's kind of ironic that this feedback column is called The Graffiti Wall because graffiti is the one big issue not mentioned in the book. Paris, in particular, is completely covered in graffiti, both the major sights, the business and residential areas, the Metro, the CDG airport and ALL, repeat ALL, the expressways. Graffiti covers mile after mile of expressway overpasses and walls in the southern suburbs of Paris.

Just FYI, if you're looking for a French vacation without (much) Graffiti, go to Reims or Colmar.
Frank Hilliard <email>
Kelowna, BC Canada 10/08/00

It's probably worth mentioning in ETBD that travelers can turn a RT ticket into an open-jaw by tacking on a one-way ticket from one of the cheap-Euroflight websites that have sprung up.
Cosmo <email>
Baltimore, MD USA 10/03/00

Even though I don't have a Global Positioning System (GPS) unit myself, I think it's great that Rick will get this data and make it available. I suggest that it also include locations of HOTELS, because sometimes these are harder to find. After all, they don't have signposts, locals don't always know them, and I'm usually looking for one when I'm new (and disoriented) in town, and carrying a heavy pack. Even people without a GPS could look at a list, and compare it with the nearest sights. The paper version might list just a few key ones, with more downloadable from the web.
bruce martin
Chandler, AZ USA 05/08/00

Thanks for the info, Mark. Go to http://www.bankrate.com/brm/news/cc/20000403.asp for more info about credit cards that do and do NOT charge a foreign currency transaction fee. Another good thing about a VISA or MasterCard from USAA Savings Bank (800-922-9092) is that it charges NO transaction fee for cash advances (typically 2-3% with most credit cards), and the APY for cash advances is the same as the interest rate for credit balances: either 10.0 % ($45 annual fee) or 12.90 % (no annual fee). I don't plan to use my credit card for cash advances, but in a pinch it's better than using my First USA VISA card with much higher fees/interest rates!
Nancy <email>
Champaign, IL USA 04/28/00

I've discovered USAA Federal Savings Bank does not charge a surcharge for foreign currency credit card transactions. I'm sure a few other banks are also playing fair. I recommend you read the fine print of your credit card agreement and, if your bank charges a surcharge for foreign transactions, let them know you are upset about it. I've given "heck" to Citibank and Bank of America for their policy changes. It may not change their policies, but it's worth a try.
Mark Adair <email>
Belmont, MA USA 04/27/00

Concerning Lloyd McNeal's comment about credit cards: I have a credit card from Chase, and they are NOT lying about notifying its customers about the introduction of the new transaction fee (the reason why I now take a different credit card to Europe). You probably simply overlooked the notice. It wasn't even in fine print: it was part of the "New/Ammended agreement," which sometimes comes enclosed with your credit card bill, sometimes separately. It pays to read those: not the *fine print*, but the paragraph titles, which usually appear in fairly large print.

As far as Sue's comment is concerned: the new Chase fee is *in addition* to any other charges levied by the bank for currency conversion.
Helenka
NJ USA 02/25/00

Concerning the comment below about the credit card fee: Nearly all credit cards include a 1 or 2 percent fee to convert money. So do most banks, as they use VISA or MasterCard to process ATM transactions. (These charges may not be a separate line item, but the exchange rate will reflect this charge.) American Express also includes such charges in its exchange rate when buying travelers checks in currency other than American dollars. (This is true even if you are not charge a fee by the issuing organization.) So no matter which method you use to pay for foreign goods and services, you probably pay the same rate. Just use the one most convenient for you.
Sue
USA 02/11/00

Rick, tell your readers about this change in credit card fees! My Chase MasterCard just started charging a 2% transaction fee on every transaction made out of the country. They "say" they sent a letter in early December saying that, but I missed it and was not told, even when I called to tell them I was going to Europe. BEWARE, check your credit card agreement or use one that does not charge a fee. It took me two upward referrals with Chase to even get someone who knew why the charges started, so in general no one knew about this change in the fine print!
Lloyd McNeal <email>
Baton Rouge, LA USA 02/09/00

we now have traveled through five european destinations with the help of your guidebook. have truly enjoyed the great tips and we would not think to return without spending at least one of our nights in a private home. truly our favorite was staying in salema on top of casa verde with the greatest views and a bottle of vinho verde.
cheryl earley <email>
mpls, mn USA 01/20/00

I thought ETBD was way helpful. You didn't comment much on AMEX agencies for money changing. I found them to be very helpful and @ a good rate. Everything about your book is wonderful. Thanks a million.
ANGEL CASTELLANOS <email>
El Monte, CA USA 09/01/99

Using your guidebook really helped. We used your tour group itinery to plan our own trip. But I think "Europe Through the Back Door" should be retitled "Doors To Europe." Everywhere we went, we encountered hordes of people with the guide book in hand.

Our favorite area was the Cinque Terre; we stayed in Monterossa at both the Pasquale and Villa Steno and throughly enjoyed the area and our rooms.

A "find" that wasn't in the book was the Hotel LeQuerce, near Chiusi. We had a nice room and fabulous dinner for under $100. The 2 brothers who run the hotel are delightful. We also spent 3 nights outside of San Gimagnano at the Villa Baciolo, which was very nice, and had the best splurge meal at the Osteria Terra Rossa down the road.

My husband used the travel bag from ETBD and loved it. We were able to carry 5 bottles wine from Italy and 5 bottles of beer from Bruge home in it!

Our only problems with advice from the book was the train to the airport in Rome is not free with a Railpass. We had to use a day for a 20-minute ride. And it would be helpful on the map of Siena to include the gates to enter the city. We spent the better part of a morning trying to figure out which gate to take to get closest to the laundromat.

Thanks again for great advice.
Julie Lacitignola <email>
Hayfork, CA USA 07/31/99

Live out of a daypack? Rick said it could be done, so we did it! Great way to travel! This was our first trip overseas and, with the help of Rick's books, we had a ball!
Peg Faludi <email>
Madison, WI USA 07/30/99

All the guidebooks need more information on cybercafes and other internet access places. We've spent considerable time hunting for them in many cities. I know the cafes tend to come and go, but there are, for instance, three "Internet Train" places in Florence that have been there for years and seem likely to stay. They cater to American students on Study Abroad programs and are very reasonable, especially if you sign up for a free membership. In Geneva, there's a nice place right in the train station, and in Milan, we stayed at the Hotel Zurigo, part of a chain that offers free internet access to any guest.
Emily Thrush <email>
Memphis, TN USA 07/06/99

I think it was "Through the Back Door" that ranked the Baltic Capitals in order of priority Tallinn, Vilnius and Riga. I just visited my daughter who is living in Lithuania and liked Vilnius, but enjoyed Riga much more! It's more cosmopolitan, livelier and more skilled at dealing with international tourists. Vilnius has a long way to go - we did several things I don't think we could have done if my daughter weren't fluent in Lithuanian. Riga is also where my daughter goes to buy fruits and vegetables - she has trouble getting much of a selection in Lithuania. There's a huge farmer's market in Riga near the train station. There's also a wonderful variety of restaurants and nightclubs . I haven't been to Tallinn yet, but she has and said it was only so-so.
Emily Thrush <email>
Memphis, TN USA 07/06/99

Just purchased ETBD 99 and discovered that it has less information on E. Europe than the 10th Edition. What happened to Bulgaria? Is there another Rickbook covering E. Europe, especially Poland? Have used ETBDs for other trips to Europe and have been delighted to follow tips and advise.
Charles Kennedy <email>
Omaha, NE USA 07/06/99

My experience in Europe was both enjoyable and frustrating. I am 22 years old and traveled with my friend to 7 countries in 22 days using "Europe Through the Back Door," Lonely Planet Western Europe, and Let's Go Europe. After 22 grueling days of trying to find accommodations and places to eat, I have discovered one thing which was supported by all the other travelers I bumped into: Listen and follow Rick Steve's advice, throw away all other guidebooks...this goes to everyone including students who think that Let's Go or Lonely PLanet is the way to go. Rick Steves offered the best advice in the world, including the sidetrip to Vernazza in the Cinque Terre which is easily one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. Let's Go Europe 1999 was full of gross errors--incorrect phone numbers, restaurants that were shut down, hotels that didn't exist, and the hours they gave for attractions must have been made up! I was extremely angered by the editors of Let's Go, and extremely pleased with Rick Steves' guidebooks. I will never use anything else again.
Arun Krishnaraj <email>
Goldsboro, NC USA 06/30/99

The notable author George Bernard Shaw once said that "Croatia is paradise on earth." How come Mr. Steves has never featured the beauty of Croatia in any of his books, videos, or PBS shows? It is a country full of beauty and a wonderful travel destination. Please, Mr. Steves, take a trip to Croatia and see what you have been missing.
Alexsandra Ivanac <email>
New York, NY USA 05/09/99

We shipped a self-contained van to Europe and spend two to four months a year traveling. We carry several of Rick's books with us. They are a necessity. We are 68ish and are having a ball. Wouldn't travel without them!
Barbara Rineberg <email>
Oceanside, CA USA 04/19/99

In June, the wife and I took our two boys, 18 and 15, to Europe and utilized Thru the Back Door book. We are planning another trip to Europe this summer and we are re-reading the book. It was invaluable.
Dave Hoffman <email>
Fairport, NY USA 02/21/99

We were a little apprehensive about traveling to Europe (where they don't speak English), but this book was a tremendous guide! My husband first saw Rick on a PBS show a few years ago and liked what he saw. He ordered this book and began to fervently read it. We have just returned from Paris and the trip could not have gone smoother. No question about it, this book gives you the travel skills you need in planning your European vacation. Thanks, Rick!
Allyson and Eddie Merrill <email>
Fayetteville, GA USA 01/26/99

I have to say that I was skeptical when my travel agent said "All you need is Rick Steve's book, and you are set for Europe!" I ordered the book that day and received it today. I have already read most of it, and I wish there were more pages. Rick talks to you like he's your friend. I found the book insightful and funny! Most of all I am no longer apprehensive about my coming excursion to Great Britain. Now that I have the book I know that I can travel and enjoy myself on a teacher's salary! :)
Amy <email>
Whittier, ca USA 01/15/99

Upon my graduation from Highschool on June 10, 1999, i plan to enjoy the final months of my reckless youth before embarking onto University as a mature and civilized adult. :-) I have been reading through Rick Steves' ETBD non-stop. Absolutely Splendid! It is by far the best travel book written. Cheers!
Andrew <email>
Saratoga, California, CA USA 12/26/98

This book seriously changed my European outlook. Before I read it I was skeptical of hotels with toilets down the hall and picnics for dinner, but after I finished it I became completely attached to the Back Door philosophy. Now as I trek across Europe with a single bag and an open mind, I chuckle at the days when I ate in American-style restaurants, never tried to learn the language, and carried enough luggage to last me for a year! Anyone who has doubts with the Back Door style should really read this book. It will change your outlook forever.
Andrew <email>
USA 12/06/98

I have just read ETBD 1999 and found it generally very good. I was surprised that the section on money did not deal with the Euro at all. I think that ETBD 2000 should have at least an overview of this subject.
Trey <email>
Placerville, CA USA 11/25/98

I used the rail pass supplement in your guide to figure out what kind of rail pass to get when I was traveling this summer. I am 30 years old and not eligible for some of the special youth discounts. Well I eventually decided on a europass. Before I had made that decision I wish I had known about how cheap regular 2nd class tickets can be and how the rules work great for tourists.

After speaking with some friends in Europe I found I would have saved alot of money if I had spent some time planning my route and then buying a regular 2nd class ticket. As it was explained to me, you pick a starting point and them a final destination point and buy a ticket between the two. Then you have two months to reach your destination.

For example, you buy a train ticket from Sevilla to Rome. The 2nd class rate is probably around $120.00. Then you have two months to get there. You can get off the train as many times as you want within the two month period. You can even vary your route somewhat so long as you are headed towards the next major train station on your route. And if you want to take an excursion off your route all you have to pay the small difference from the nearest city on your route to the off-route place you want to visit.

The price comparison is astounding. A two month eurail pass can cost over a thousand dollars for an old timer like myself. Compare that with the $120 or so for the regular ticket. All it takes is a little planning (planning your routes) and you save an awful lot of money.
Hal Zawacki <email>
Oakland, CA USA 11/04/98

Rick Steves' Europe Through the Back Door: More Feedback

Rick Steves'
Europe Through the Back Door: More Feedback