Rick Steves' France: More Feedback
If you've traveled with this guidebook, please help us improve it for future travelers. How can it be more helpful and accurate? Did any recommended hotels, eateries, or sights disappoint you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
Archived postings: 2004 | 2003
St. Gothard Hotel Nice- Disaster
We prepaid all hotel reservations. The St. Gothard Hotel in Nice was so bad that we checked out 2 hours after checking in . We used all-hotels for the reservation and were unable to get a refund for a 3 night stay. We used Rick's book to find the hotel Excelsior which was excellent. Next time around I plan to make hotel reservations while in Europe.
Doug Knowles <email>
Jacksonville, Fl USA Tue 05/31/2005
Bayeux - Hotel D'Argouges & BattleBus Tour
My wife and I just returned from 8 days in France. The first 3 days of our trip were spent in Bayeux, Normandy. Out trip was put together by the information in your France 2005 Guidebook. What a great time. Your book is spot on, again.
We highly recommend Bayeux as a base when touring Normandy. The Hotel d-Argouges was a great pick. Great location, staff, breakfast, and rates.
The highlight of our trip was the 8 1/2 hour BattleBus tour of the "American Highlightes" sector w/ our guide Dale. What fascinating day. We had high expectations for that tour. The expectations were met and maybe even surpassed.
Anyway, thanks for helping make our France trip run smoothly. We would not travel Europe w/ out your guidebook.
Thanks,
Joe Ciccarone <email>
Ambler, Pa USA Sun 05/29/2005
Chamonix
We recently traveled to Chamonix and enjoyed the little town. The mountains were gorgeous and rivaled the beauty of the Interlaken area. We stayed at Chalet Beauregard which was pleasant.
We do have a restaurant to recommend- le Napoleon Restaurant and Bar, 75 Ave de l'Aguille de Midi. The service was great and the food was even better. Try their house wine for 9e a bottle and dinner was reasonable- around 17e a plate. The portions were a good size and the presentation was wonderful.
We took the cog train up to Mer du Glace and hiked/rode the luge back down to Chamonix. Our trip was worth it.
McNays
Mettweiler, Germany Thu 05/26/2005
France
My husband and I recently returned from a two-week honeymoon in France. We flew into Paris, took a TGV to Avignon Centre Ville and used that as our base for four days to explore it, Arles and Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue. It made a great base! We stayed at the Hotel du Parc, and we'd gladly do it again. The owners were wonderful! Very friendly and attentive, and Madame bakes all her own bread and pastries for your breakfast in the morning. It was the only place we opted to pay extra for breakfast, and it was worth it!
Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue was a nice little town, but the way the trains run, we took a 7:53 train to get there in time to explore the market on market day, not realizing that the next train out was nearly five hours later! It wasn't really a five-hour kind of town for us, and we were train travelers, so we didn't have any other options. It's a lovely town, but we got a little bored. It's best to check over the train schedules a little more thoroughly than we did.
We left Avignon and went to Cassis for two days. The last time I was there it was beach weather, but it was a little too chilly for the beach this time around. It was still a lovely and relaxing little town. We took the little white tourist train and the five-calanque boat tour. Very nice! Of special note, though, as Rick notes in his book, the handy shuttle bus from the train station into town and back does not operate on weekends, and we were leaving on Sunday. The taxi stand on the port is also not in operation if you have an early departure (read as: before 8 a.m.), so we had to ask the people at our hotel to call one for us...but not before going to the taxi stand with all our stuff to find no taxis and the taxi phone locked up.
Next we trained to Annecy. BEAUTIFUL place!! It was our favorite of the whole trip. A bit crowded with tourists, but I was happy to be one of them. Hotel du Chateau is nice, with lovely views (be sure to ask for a room with a view). Rick states in his book that you should visit Lyon if it rains. This is true. Our second day there, it rained all day until late afternoon. The town isn't very perky when it's raining and some places either don't open at all or close early. We waited it out and got a good nap in, but if you really want to make the utmost of every day, probably best to train to a bigger city for the day.
Amanda <email>
Gainesville, FL USA Mon 05/23/2005
Honeymoon in France
My husband and I just returned from our two week honeymoon throughout France. We spent the first week traveling the country, and the last week in Paris (I will post more about Paris there).
We flew into Nice and were to immediately take a train Arles (because this is where RS recommends basing yourself out of if you dont have a car) Well, Arles was a dissapointment in that sense. No tours left for the other areas in the region from Arles, they all in fact leave from Avignon where he does not recommend a stay. Our hotel, the New Hotel Arles, was less than spacious, but I quickly learned that space is only an American thing. We also stayed one night in Avignon where we learned that just because something logically seems/looks close on a map doesnt meen it it is easy to get to, and several 50 euro cab rides later we had moved on to Lyon.
Once again forced to take a cab, our hotel was in a fairly shady section of the city, but to be fair it served its purpose. From Lyon we went to Bayeux and stayed in the Best Western De Brunville. While this hotel was rather pricey, it was worth it because we found the best meal we had in all of france in the hotel restauarant. Le 7eme Art. It was wonderful, we are still raving about that meal.
We were dissapointed in the lack of tours that ran to other places (ie Normandy to Mt. St. Michele) that logically you would think would exist. We did enjoy a tour of the beaches and surrounding areas.
Thanks for what help you had to offer RS, but please keep in mind that when you say places are friendly to those without cars, you must remember to warn of high taxi fares. We should have budgeted nearly as much for our cab fares as we did for two people with four day train passes.
Anne
Tampa, FL USA Mon 05/16/2005
How to call US collect from france
Something I would have found helpful in the guide book would be exact instructions on how to make a collect call from a pay phone in france. My credit care was taken from me and it took me over an hour to figure out how to call collect. No one in the train station I was in could speak English.
USA Sat 05/14/2005
Hotels, B&Bs Northern France
We just returned from a fabulous 8 day trip to northern France. Rick is missing a wonderful B&B in his guidebook for Bayeux; La Ferme du Pressoir. It's a fabulous, working farm that exudes French country charm. Wonderful breakfasts, delightfully decorated, huge rooms and an incredibly welcoming hostess, Odlie. We also stayed at La Jacotiere near Mt. St. Michel... decent view from the studio (if you stand up to look out the window or eat on the patio), but decent price for the area, and you can be one of the first ones in line for the Abbey.
And finally, we were very disappointed with Le Fleuray, near Amboise. It's extremely overpriced for its out of the way location and less-than-average restaurant. It is a nice looking hotel from the outside, but feels like they cut corners on the inside given the average decoration and lumpy, sagging twin mattresses pushed together to form double beds. The restaurant is way overpriced for the cuisine and you can do much better than their breakfasts getting a cup of coffee and a croissant from a cafe. Don't let them 'insist' you take half-board either... it's very unpleasant to be held hostage for dinner there in the stuffy (hot), overly formal-feeling restaurant. The cold, 'heated' pool is daunting for small children as while we were there it was overrun by friends of the owners' teenage kids throwing tennis balls. Not exactly a restful, relaxing atmosphere.
Aimee
Geneva, CH Wed 05/04/2005
Bayeux
We recently returned from a trip to Holland and France and one of the places we happened to land for the night was the Churchill Hotel in Bayeux, France. It has a fabulous location with one entrance directly entering the main street in town in the other entrance you are one 1 block from the famous tapestry tourist attraction.
More important than its location was the hospitality offered by its present owners. The rooms were spacious, clean and there was an excellent continental breakfast. The owners arranged for out tours using Battlebus as the Rick Steves choice of tours to Normandy, and a taxi for the cheapest pickup for the four of us to the war museum in Caen. They were very helpful in directing us to the restaurant choices within the town and you will be pleased to know that these choices included those recommended by you., They were indeed excellent choices.
Hopefully, you will be reviewing the hotels in Bayeux for your 2006 edition. I really hope would take a look at this truly welcoming hotel and its delightful husband and wife team of owners,. We thought it was a standout. I had stayed in Bayeux the previous year in one of your recommended hotels. This was infinitely better for about the same price.
claudia Walker <email>
Mountlake Terrace, WA USA Sun 05/01/2005
Alet les Bains
I just saw another posting about Alet les Bains. I found this quaint village by accident whilst on the net. I stayed in a gorgeous medieval cottage last summer in the centre of the village. Incredible place, wonderfully friendly, quiet but with lots to do. The kids kayaked the river, swam in the mineral water pool and there were wonderful views on our daily walks in the hills around the village. Alet should be included in Rick's book but then it wouldn't be the secret it is!!
Kristen <email>
Chicago, IL USA Mon 04/04/2005
Provence sights
We are currently living in France and try to make the most out of our weekends to see as much as possible. Recently we did a quick 2 day tour of Avignon, Pont du Gard and Arles. Rick is correct on not spending too much time in Avignon. You can quickly see the sights and move on. After getting your Passion Pass from the TI, I would start at the bridge and buy the combo ticket there which includes the Palais de Popes. Use your discount from the Passion Pass at the Musee Petit Palace. It is very small and not worth full admission. The Palais de Popes is nice but not much left of interest other than architectural. Found the city to be great for shopping and either have a picinic in the park next to the Palace or next to a vineyard on your way to Pont du Gard. Pont du Gard was the highlight of the two days. Skipped the museum and spent our 3 hours there staring, marveling and dipping our feet in the river. It is incredible! Arles was a huge disappointment to us. After having been to Rome this just didn't hold our interest. Thank goodness for the fair being in town for the Easter holidays! The hotel we stayed at was FANTASTIC! Hotel l"Ampitheater was great, fun, and a great value. Have recommended it to lots of friends already. Thanks Rick!Hope this is helpful to others!
Meg <email>
Elgin (Tourrettes s/ Loup,France), Il USA Tue 03/29/2005
Help Save a Chamonix Classic
If you've been to Chamonix, you've probably stopped into or walked past the Alimentation Generale store on the Av. Aiguille du Midi on your way to the Aiguille du Midi lift station. It is the last locally owned food store in town and has cheerfully been supplying visitors for years. The growing number of chain grocery markets in town is squeezing them out as the town slowly loses its local flavor. The family has been hanging on but may have to close down next year.
If you care at all about helping the valley keep some of its local culture, stop by the Alimentation General (same building as the Au Bon Coin hotel) and pick up a few things. Francoise (learned her English as an exchange student in Aspen) has taken care of visitors for years. It would be a shame to lose a Chamonix original.
Chris
Brussels, Mon 03/28/2005
Nice (Cote d'Azur)
My mother and I just returned from a 2 week trip in France, including 2 days in Nice. We stayed at Hotel Trocadero (not a Rick Pick) on rue de Belgique. This hotel is just a block east, and a half block south, of the Nice-ville train station. The hotel is across the street from an internet and phone cafe, has been recently remodeled, and was by far the best stay for the price. For 48 euro per night, we stayed in a VERY spacious double room, complete with: a double bed and a single bed; a balcony in the room; a closet; TV (with CNN, BBC, & more); telephone; a VERY spacious bathroom, with its own balcony, a very large bathtub (& shower head), sink, and toilet; and the room still had space left over! It's a block or so from ave Jean Medecin, and is only a 15-20 minute walk to the beach. We absolutely loved our stay, and we enjoyed Rick's walk through Old Nice. Fenoccio's Italian ice cream was fantastic (I had Guava!), and the view from Castle Hill was incredible (complete with a waterfall)!
But be careful- Rick's not kidding about sticking to major streets after dusk- we did NOT feel comfortable being out after dark on the smaller streets. Also, there's major construction on the entire avenue de Jean Medecin (for a new SNCF route), so the construction makes for cramped sidewalks, but travel down it at least once. After that, try rue Berlioz (to the west of the train station) to get to the beach- especially in the morning. It's a peaceful walk, and it takes you by an excellent boulangerie (buy a sandwhich early, and save it for lunch), as well as a high-end shopping and eating area. And definitely take water shoes with you from the states- you'll need them for the beach, and if you try to buy them in Nice, they'll try to charge you 15 euro ($20 give or take).
Jaime Cunningham <email>
Glen Rose, TX USA Mon 03/28/2005
Normandy (Caen & Mt. St. Michel)
My mother and I just returned from a 2 week trip to France, including 3 days in Caen, Normandy. In Caen, we stayed in Rick's Pick of Hotel du Havre and found it to be an excellent choice for the price, despite the tiny shower. We loved our stay at the hotel, which is run by Mme. (Isabelle) and Mr. Pons, and they were so eager to speak English, very interested in our travel plans, and the most helpful in suggesting eateries and directions. The rooms were comfortable, in an excellent location, and cleaned daily. While in Caen (careful, it's pronounced "kahn," not "kehn;" you'll end up in Cannes if you pronounce it the latter...), we took a guided tour from the Caen Memorial Museum, and it was well worth it! Our guide was Olivier, a native to Caen, and we toured all the beaches, as well as both the American and German cemetaries. Get to the museum at opening to tour the museum before your afternoon tour- there's quite a lot to be seen. Though we didn't get to see as much of the museum as we'd have liked, we could see why Rick says it's the best. We also took a day trip to Mont St. Michel from Caen, and you must add it to your itinerary if you have the time. This abbey is well worth the visit, and ties for 2nd as our most favorite from our entire 2wk trip! We just missed the high tides- due to the train schedule- but we absolutely enjoyed our visit! The only stinker was the train system- though very efficient and an excellent mode of travel- be aware of scheduled strikes; they can throw off your travel plans. Be prepared to take a very early train, if needed, on strike days (they let you know the day before a strike).
Jaime Cunningham <email>
Glen Rose, TX USA Mon 03/28/2005
Movies about France
In the France 2005 book you list a number of movies about France and Paris.We think you should add one, Charlotte Gray-2001, with Cate Blanchett. Filmed on location in St-Antonin-Noble-Val, it is the reason we are planning our trip to the Loire Valley and the Dordogne for Sept. 2005.
Harold Reed <email>
Hurst, TX USA Sat 03/05/2005
Loire Hotel - Le Fleuray
Just returned from the Loire where we stayed at Le Fleuray Hotel just northeast of Amboise. It is a large restored farmhouse in a beautiful country setting. The food was fabulous and the hospitality outstanding. The owners' kids are the two waiters in the restaurant, and they were so helpful and very knowledgeable about local wines, etc. Ask to see the photo album full of pictures of the restoration. (Mick Jagger has a house nearby and is a restaurant regular - check out his pictures in the album!)
Kathryn Hansen <email>
Fort Worth, TX USA Mon 02/21/2005
Traveling off season in the cote d'azur
I think it is important to mention that traveling off season can be great in France but alot of shops close sown for 3 - 4 weeks in January. It can be very upsetting if you visit St.Paul de Vence or Biot and can't enter the wonderful shops that are there. I am only familiar with the Nice area but I have had the pleasure of living here for 6 months and learning these things as we go. Also, alot of the hotels in the "high" tourists areas close down during the same time.
Meg Karayiannis <email>
Elgin, Il USA Tue 01/25/2005
Hotel Clemenceau
We spent several weeks in France in September. It is a glorious time to travel. The weather is perfect and the flowers are still beautiful. All the French people we met were very friendly and helpful., but the people who really went out of their way for us were the young couple in charge of the Hotel Clemenceau in Nice. We reserved all of our hotel through Rick Steves' recommendation with no problem. However, after a long day of travel, we discovered there are many hotel Clemenceaus in France and somehow when I thought I had reserved the one in Nice, by mistake I reserved another by the same name an hour away. I advise all to carefully check that the addresses match when reserving on Rick's recommendations. We were very upset when we arrived and found out we had no room in Nice. The managers had us sit down, brought us orange juice, and spent an hour on their computer and phone- first cancelling our unwanted reservation and then helping us find another hotel. Although all we saw of this hotel was the lobby, it was attractively furnished and had fresh flowers. Our lasting memory will be of the two young hosts who gladly made us comfortable, reassured us that they would help us find a nice place to stay, and took so much time to help us. We could not thank them enough. To any who say the French are not friendly, I strongly say the opposite is true. And I will always recommend the Hotel Clemenceau for true hospitality.
Mary Kleist <email>
Franklin, WI USA Wed 01/05/2005
free admission to French musuems on first Sunday of the month
Please, please, please advise travelers to France that admission to natioal musuems is free on the first Sunday of the month. This means that the lines will be extra long and that some 'tourist' passes, especially the 1 day passess will NOT be honored. You will end up in that long line along with all the locals.
Heather <email>
Washington, DC USA Tue 01/04/2005
Chamonix
Just returned from another great trip to Chamonix. The Hotel de L'Arve is a true gem we've returned to for years. The Didillon family goes out of its way to make your visit a memorable one. While their full board deal is a great one, be sure to eat at least one meal at Le Gecko, just 70 meters from thwe hotel.
chris
Flagstaff, AZ USA Sun 01/02/2005