Rick Steves' Ireland: More Feedback
If you've traveled with this guidebook, please help us improve it for future travelers. How can it be more helpful and accurate? Did any recommended hotels, eateries, or sights disappoint you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
Just got back from Ireland, May 2005
My son and I just got back from a one week trip to Ireland, starting at the Shannon Airport and working our way to Dublin. The RS Ireland book was extremely helpful. Here are some of our observations: We rented a car at Shannon, and spent some time before each day driving reviewing the maps. This is important because the back roads are very poorly marked. Towns aren't marked either, so sometimes we had to find the town name from a pub. The major "N" roads will go from four lane divided highways to narrow rural roads in an instant. You can, and should, bypass major towns like Limerick, but there are no "loops" like in the U.S. You have to find the back roads that bypass the cities. Otherwise, you find yourself in long traffic jams in the middle of the cities. We saw the Cliffs of Moher, very scenic, but the 45 deg temp and 15 mph winds made it very chilly. Suggest you pack warmly and carry an umbrella. We stayed at the Jury's Inn in Galway and wished we'd stayed in a B&B, even though it would have been a bit of a hike to "Galway's Latin Quarter." We left a little bumper paint on the tight (and expensive) parking garage next to Jury's. Found a great pub in Galway for traditional Irish music; "Tis Coili." We disagreed with the RS book about Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. This is a great place to see a restored medieval castle, attached "village," peat-cutting, country life, and enjoy good food in Mac's pub. Much less touristy than any similar site in the U.S. I recommend getting a 5 Euro calling card, even though you'll have to pay .50 to use it from a pay phone. We booked our B&Bs the day before, or sometimes that morning, and found that this saved us grief - they were pretty much full when we arrived. We had great experiences at the Limestone Lodge in Kenmare and the Rockhouse B&B in Cashel. The Guardwell in Kinsale was basic, but a good value. We stayed in the Clfden House in Dublin, another good value, but had one bad experience. The young man manning the desk our last night fell asleep and left several of us stranded outside the door until repeated knocking, ringing and phoning finally woke him up. Anya served us great breakfast at Clifden. She is one of thousands of kids from Eastern Europe doing service work in Ireland. We thoroughly enjoyed the Ring of Kerry, the town of Kenmare, Kinsale and the Herlihy historical walk, a picnic at Charles Fort, The Rock of Cashel, Glendalough, and the delightful city of Dublin. (fellow U.S. travelers called it an ugly city; they were completely wrong.) In Dublin, we recommend the hop-on buses, the musical pub tour, the Trinity tour with Book of Kells, the wonderful (and free) National Gallery and National Library. Guiness tour OK, but I give it a mild rec. Ireland is expensive, but food and drink are reasonable in pubs. A pint of Guiness is about 4.3 E in the country, and close to 5 E in Dublin. We highly recommend Hannigan's in Cashel -- two people can split one meal. We spent about 100 euros per day each, including car, tours, meals and lodging, but not including airfare. The internet cafes are very cheap, one Euro for 30 minutes, and are a good place to find a toilet when you need one. (McD's also) Most of these internet places also have booths where you can call the U.S. for 12 cents per minute. Ireland is delightful, but cool, rainy, and expensive compared to other parts of Europe. I'm thinking of taking a "Camelback" water carrier on my next trip. Traveling in Ireland (and Europe) is one long search for toilets and drinking water. The people are very friendly and pro-American. I have a "scavenger hunt list" I made up for my son and will send it if you want it. Enjoy
Robert Keeney <email>
Grapevine , TX USA Sun 05/29/2005
Trip To Ireland
My wife and I just returned from a recent trip to Ireland. Of the six B&B's that we stayed in, by far the best was Petra House in Galway. Frank and Joan run an immaculately clean B&B. The prices are very reasonable. The food is excellent and the hosts are most gracious. You could not ask for more in a B&B. Don't miss the rock (Petra) garden in the back of the house.Sheila and Pat Farmer
Pat Farmer <email>
Clearwater Fl.Florida, USA Fri 05/27/2005
Boat to Aran Isles
In Galway, O'Brien Shipping is no longer in business. They offered a ride from Galway harbor to the islands. If you call them, you will hear a tri-tone signal. The Doolin/Aran boats still run as before. In Galway, the only service is out of Rossaveel. Tickets for the boat can be had in Galway, and a bus- private service, not city buses, can be had in Galway as well. But you have to get the bus tickets in a separate place from the boat tickets. A little confusing, make sure you ask where each is. Price has gone up considerably since they are the only game in town. Twenty fiveEur/return; maybe higher in high season. Plus bus fare 6 to 8 eur. return. There is a couple - Thomas and Geraldine Faherty who run the Seacrest B&B in Kilronan: I highly recommend them. He is having a boat built in France and will start a service from Isl. to mainland and Island hopping. Give them a call about using their service instead. Great people. He a professional fisherman his whole life . They lived in the states for many years before going back to Ireland.
Bruce Robert <email>
Chicago, IL USA Fri 05/27/2005
Ireland trip
We recently returned from 15 days in Ireland.Since most people report on South Ireland Id like to comment on Northern Ireland.We drove from Galway to Belleek and visited the pottery there.Very nice place and if you use US currency they have exceptional deals.We stayed in Derry one night staying at Saddlers B&B.Nice place with good breakfast(shared Bath which was clean and close and they suppled thick bathrobes)We then drove to the Giants Causeway which was unusual.We then drove along the Antrim Coastalmost all the way to Belfast.It was a slow up and down trip but with spectacular scenery.We enjoyed it very much.We stayed in Belfast at Camera House which was a great B&B.Nice hostess and great breakfast.We took a black cab ride on sunday morning thruout Belfast.The cabby was a very nice man who stopped often and explained thins along with taking us into the formerly troubled areas.(cost 32 pounds for 4)Very worthwhile .Enroute to Dublin we visited the Vslley of the Boyne.Bru na Boinne turned out to be the highlight of our trip.Very interesting place that I would highly suggest people visit.We stayed in Kulkenny,Kinsale,Kenmare,Dingletown,Kinvarra and Galway and have great places to suggest if anyone is interested. Contact me if I can help.Incidentally we were in Ireland 15 days and it sprinkled 3-4 times,Never used our umbrellas or raincoats.happy travels and thanks Rick
John Theune <email>
Sheboygan, Wi USA Wed 05/25/2005
Ireland to run the Dublin marathon
I traveled to Ireland in October '04 and used many of Rick's recommendations. You can view my BLOG about my trip at http://travelingkaren.blogspot.com/I loved it all!!!
Karen <email>
Seal Beach, CA USA Tue 05/24/2005
B&B in Dingle
I just got back from Ireland, and I am homesick for Kenmare. I used RS book and it is very helpful, but of course, can't cover all the wonderful places to stay. I was not thrilled with the town of Dingle, but there is an excellent B&B not listed in the book. It is called "Harbour Nights". I met a couple from Sweden in Kinsale and they highly recommended it to me. It fully lived up to their recommendation. It is on Wood St. about 100 yards past ocean world on the left/opposite side of street with a sign out front. It is run by Kathleen and Sean, a young couple who have have put a lot of time and effort into their home. It has a panoramic view of Dingle Bay, Ventry House, the stone pointer, and the saddest looking dog I have ever seen. All rooms are ensuite - more like a charming hotel - with of course, a full breakfast. It has 4 T, 10 D, 7 with balconey and bay view. Price is 30/40(L/H)Euro PP. All rooms have TV and coffee/tea. About 5 minutes walk to town center, off street parking, and lots of friendly info about area. Phone number is: 066-915 2499. Website will be up around middle of June: www.harbournightsguesthouse.com Probably the best B&B I stayed at in Ireland. If only I could say the same for Dingle. However the Dingle peninsula is spectacular.
Bruce Robert <email>
Chicago, Il USA Mon 05/23/2005
Ireland
i would highly recommend carbury house just north of sligo and just south of yeats' grave. it is beautiful and charming. the hosts are peter and martha davey are very friendly and i met an assistant nancy, who is also great. also, we used a telephone card to phone home, we stayed at a beautiful hote near dromoland castle used the card, no charge for the use of the phone dublin different story crown plaza hotel, also lovely charged us 130 euros to use the card which you had to dial an 800 number many of our calls were busy i called holiday inn when i got home the hotel is affiliated with them, agreed to refund me 100 euros which they promptly did. this was my third trip. i took three daughters with me, two had never been there. we all loved it. last time i had won a trip to paris, went back. still lots i never got to see. ten minutes late for the tour at the waterford crystal factory
sheila bateman <email>
tempe, az USA Tue 05/17/2005
Killarney
Found your book to be very helpfull except for information on Killarney.I found this to be the most scenic area of all.Night life pubs music shows restaurants cinema more places to go than time to do it.The ring of kerry and Gap of Dunloe tours are two of the best in Ireland.As for accommodation we have stayed at Northwood House B&B and there new self catering property this time.Both where first class.Josephine was a wonderfull host.Check them out on there website www.northwoodhouse.com .
Harry Huntley
London, Harrow England Fri 05/06/2005
Killarney
Found your book to be very helpfull except for information on Killarney. I found this to be the most scenic area of all. Night life pubs music shows restaurants cinema more places to go than time to do it. The ring of kerry and Gap of Dunloe tours are two of the best in Ireland. As for accommodation we have stayed at Northwood House B&B and there new self catering property this time.Both where first class.Josephine was a wonderfull host.Check them out on there website www.northwoodhouse.com .
Harry Huntley
London, Harrow England Fri 05/06/2005
Great B&B's
We just returned home from a week long trip to Galway, Dingle, and the Ring of Kerry with our four teenage girls, and it was great. Even the girls had the best time. The Milestone B&B on Slea Head Drive in Dingle was a highlight. The girls had the family room overlooking Dingle Bay - a spectacular view! Michael and Barbara Carroll are great hosts and travel guides. When they recommend a site to see, a restaurant, a pub or a B&B in the next town on your agenda, don't ask any questions - just be confident that there are no better choices. In Kenmare, the Whispering Pines was also great - no views but a short walk to town and Mary and John Fitzgerald really make you feel at home.
Eileen and Tim McKeon <email>
Ridgefield, CT USA Tue 04/26/2005
The Dingle Peninsula
The information in the book about accommodation is very innaccurate. There are no mention of the excellent B&Bs in the Gaeltacht region at all !
Julie <email>
New York, NY USA Thu 04/21/2005
Ireland's Friendliest B&B (Dingle)
First and foremost my wife and I would like to thank our fellow travelers on this message board for making our recent trip to Ireland a much easier and pleasurable experience thanks to your invaluable advice. We had an awesome time!
All of our food and lodgings in Ireland were lovely but I would like to single out Dingle's Cill Bhreac House for a special mention. With so many complements written about Cill Bhreac House on this forum (& elsewhere) I felt compelled to check the place out for myself & I was not to be disappointed. The house itself is in a perfect location on the verge of Dingle town overlooking Dingle Bay, the price was reasonable, the breakfast was fantastic, our bay view room was most comfortable, however, it was the friendliness of Angela that really made Cill Bhreac House a real mind-sticker. We will return!
Check out Angela's web site at www.cillbhreachouse.com. Tell her Jerry from Boston sent you on!
P.S. Rick, this place is definitely worthy of an inclusion in the next edition of your guide book.
Jerry Smith <email>
Boston, MA USA Tue 04/12/2005
2005 Ireland
Our family (2 grandparents, 2 parents & 2 kids) just returned from 9 days in Ireland.We used the 2005 Ireland book.We bought the Heritage Card and The Heritage Island Guide which really supplements the card and saved a lot of money.Rented a manual Mini Bus and put 1000 + miles on it. Only filled the tank 3 times. We had an itinerary and printed up driving directions from www.aaireland.com before we left. These directions were a huge time saver because without these directions we would have been lost many times even with a good map. Prefered aaireland's directions over the ones from viamichilin.com. The directions were correct 99% of the time and we never got lost, turned around a couple of times but never lost. The drive times listed are accurate as well. Driving in towns was a little confusing because cars parked on the streets may be parked in any direction, sometimes making the street look like a one-way street. We learned to look for do not enter signs as well as "No Entry" written on the street. Also found that trucks, buses, and any large vehicle have the right of way by size in towns. In traffic, most did not stop or slow down trying to get around parked cars and cut us off.These same vehicles were much more courteous outside of towns. We were suprised to find that the speed limit on most roads outside of towns was 100 km, even on the narrrow, treacherous ones.
Kinsale was our favorite, we stayed in Friar's Lodge owned by Maureen Tierney who also owns another B&B in town recommended by Rick. Lovely modern rooms, great showers and helpful staff.
Dingle was our second favorite. The loop drive was easy, only had one problem finding Kilmakedar Church, drove around An Mhuirioch & gave up. We followed the sign back to Dingle "Au Daingean" and that's when we found it. Connor's Pass had great views of Dingle, and current road consturction is widening it in area's.
We really liked Ashford Castle and its gardens which we thought was well worth the stop. The kids liked Blarney Castle, they liked climbing up and down the circular staircase and got to run around the grounds.
Eating out cost us a lot more then anticipated, it cost us about $30-$40 per person a day not including beer or breakfast(which was included at the places we stayed). Also found that most B&B's & Bars use instant coffee and coffee refills are not free. In Dublin, all bars were closed on Good Friday. We followed Rick's recommended dining in most towns and have no complaints, Kysteler's Inn in Kilkenny was our favorite.
The only town I would have skipped is Waterford, we were not interested in the factory tour and there really wasn't much to see in the town.
Kelly Berg <email>
Glen Ellyn, IL USA Fri 04/08/2005
"Back Door" Museum Not in Rick's Book
Please add the NMI Decorative Arts and Sciences branch in Collins Barracks to your 2006 edition! The new LUAS train stops right in front (Museum stop, a few before Heuston Station), so it is no longer out of the way. It is a quite fascinating collection of silver, furniture, artwork, and similar works over the past 4 centuries. It was recommended to me by a local, and was well worth the trip. The brief guided tours can be quite interesting.
KPO'M
UK Wed 04/06/2005
Southwest Ireland
Just back from 9 days in Southwest Ireland- traveled with 8 year old daughter and husband. Used many useful tips from the graffiti wall- microfiber underwear was the best one.
Rental car: Hertz Ireland $207. for 9 days, unlimited mileage, Nissan Micro auto. trans. Great deal- cheaper than traveling by bus for 3 people and so much flexibility and comfort. Best B &B: Muxnaw Lodge in Kenmare- rooms newly redone, gorgeous place, great breakfast. 70 euros for 2 Adults and 1 child B &B.
Best pub: (tie) Baby Hannahs in Skibbereen- friendly locals, cozy place with warm peat fire on cold rainy day, and Bulman's Pub in Summercove between Kinsale and Charles Fort- cold pint sitting on wall overlooking harbor on sunny afternoon- fabulous.
Best scenery: Dingle peninsula and Ring of Kerry- spectacular. Recommend detour off Ring of Kerry to Valentia Island and lunch at Seabreeze Knightstown Cafe. Also recommend taking ferry from Glengarriff to Garinish Island if you're at all interested in beautiful gardens and scenery.
Disappointing: Adare- so far from the most beautiful village in Ireland, as advertised. Saw 1 pub, about 3 shops, and a wide, heavily trafficked main street. Had a great trip- no problems. The internet (and Rick's books, of course) make traveling so much easier and more predictable than it's ever been. Enjoy!
M. E. Duffy <email>
Readington, NJ USA Wed 04/06/2005
Ireland
My wife and I just returend from our 17th backdoor trip. This time we spent one month in Ireland using Rick's 2004 book as our base. Here are our suggestions, now, forty eight hours old.
For planning, buy and use Rick's book. It is the best guide we have seen on Ireland. Also on planning, when getting rental car quotes ask them their cost for insurance too. We got full insurance and we recommend it given Ireland's roads. But the company that gives you the cheapest daily rate often makes it up on the most expensive insurance rate. Buyer beware on this.
In Dingle we recommend the Cill Bhreac BB. It is well located and had discounted rates for the shoulder season. Angela is a great hostess with great rooms and breakfast. She will make other BB reservations for you and will negotiate the price at your future stays, email cbhreac@iol.ie. The Ring of Dingle was our best coastal tour in Ireland and much better than the Ring of Kerry. It has the best coastal views and the fewest tourists and tourist buses. We had our best dinner in Ireland at a great restaurant seven miles west of Dingle on the Ring road at The StoneHouse Resturant. The food, and the setting were fantastic. Buy one of their chocolate biscuits for your driving tour, info@stonehouseventry.com. Unfortunately the Midi restaurant in Dingle, recommended by many on this board is now closed. However, Rick's recommendation of the Out of The Blue for fine seafood is right on. Great lunches and dinners.
A hidden jewel of a coastal village is Roundstone north and west of Galway. We went for lunch and stayed for three days! A great pub is The Shamrock one of only two in the village. And the St Joseph's BB is located across the street email christianalowry@eircom.net. There is nice art in the village, great nearby beaches, a nice restaurant and more.
If you are headed way up north we recommend a visit to Buncrana. If you are into wool and are into Irish sweaters this is the place to visit. Stay at the Westbrook BB email mgwest@eircom.net for good rooms, good location, and helpful advice. The best eatery we found in the town was the Drift Inn Grill and Bar. It is built in the old rail station and serves great food and huge portions. Our highlight was a visit to the Irish Institute for Knitting. Here a retired school teacher will explain the entire history of the Irish Wool Industry. The Institute has many women knitting Irish sweaters for them which they then send to all the sweater shops in Ireland. You can buy the most beautiful wool from their warehouse too. They can be reached at cranaknits@eircom.net. This is not a tourist place. Just three women that love the history and are trying to preserve Irish knitting.
We did not enjoy much of the Ring of Kerry as so much of the drive was inland of the coastline. But if you stay in Kenmare as Rick recommends and do the trip clockwise and like a very rural experience then cut your drive in half on the north side of the tour. You will see a road that heads south on your map and goes through the mountains. This is rural Ireland at its best. We drove for over and hour and did not see a home, a human, a farmhouse. Only sheep and great "mountain" views. It was our best drive of the trip.
Kensale was recommended by Rick and we heartily agree. We recommend the Rivermount House BB. Clare is a great hostess and serves a great meal. It is a bit out of town but we like avoiding the city hassle, email rivermnt@iol.ie. We had a great Kensale dinner at Man Friday. It is located fifty meters west of The Spaniard. While in Kinsale we went to Balarney. I would skip this if you are limited for time. There are better old facilities to visit such as the Rock of Cashel.
We avoided Cork and stayed in nearby Tramore which is on the coast and only seven miles SW of Cork. We recommend the Glenorney BB. Great views, great breakfast and a perfect location, www.glenorney.com. From Tramore we drove to Hook Head which is worth the drive. We saw the largest waves in Ireland here. Check with locals and be there for high tide. It is quite exciting. From Tramore we also visited the Waterford factory. We are not big on tours but if Rick says go, we go. It was well worth the effort. They do a very good tour for all ages. It is informative and entertaining with no pressure to buy. From Tramore you can also go to the Jamison whiskey tour and tasting in Midleton. They show you how they used to make whiskey before the age of computers. At the end two people of each group can volunteer (raise you hand quickly) to taste six whiskies that have been diluted a bit. When you pick your favorite you get a large portion of it,uncut and free. Now lets don't see the same hands! A good eatery in Tramore is The Vic Cafe. It is relatively new in the upper town. The chef makes some great sauces to enliven Irish cuisine.
For your final night or two if you are flying out of Shannon we recommend the community of Kilrush. It is one hour from the airport, it is a coastal town, it has some great things to see, and the best asian restaurant we visited in Ireland. It is due west of Limerick on the north side of the River Shannon on the way to Loop Head. We recommend the Hillcrest View BB, www.hillcrestview.com with the best showers in all of Ireland! The Asian restaurant was downtown on the main north/south street called the Silver House. Their Duck is just fantastic. We took the coastal tour out to Loop Head via Kilkee. Here we had some of the best coastal vistas in Ireland, just beautiful with no tourists and few cars. Plan on a picnic at the lighthouse. Also have a Guiness at The Keatings pub just east of the Lighthouse. It is the last Pub until America.
Sorry about any typos. The jet lag is cathing up.
Stan Biles <email>
Blue River, Or USA Sat 04/02/2005
Signposts in Dingle are now all in Irish
In relation to the article below I am getting a lot of emails with differing views on the new policy which offically came in last Monday. As such on my Discussion Board I have created a new topic:
Very Important news for visitors coming to Dingle with the subheading:
All signposts will now be in Irish and not in English
You can dicuss the merits or cons of the new policy. Just keep the Discussion polite:)The link to the Dicussion Board is:
http://aimoo.com/forum/freeboard.cfm?id=629573
Western Ireland bans English
> Locals say Gaelic-only rule could hurt tourism
>>> San Mateo County Times - San Mateo,CA,USA
>> By Shawn Pogatchnik
> DUBLIN, Ireland - Tourists, beware: Your guide book may tell you the > way to Dingle in County Kerry, but all the road signs will be pointing > you toward An Daingean in Contae an Ciarrai instead.
>> In an age when many people bemoan English's growing global influence, > advocates of local languages scored a small victory Monday when > Ireland enacted a law outlawing English in road signs and official > maps on much of the nation's western coast, where many people speak > Gaelic.
>> Locals concede the switch will confuse foreigners in an area that > depends heavily on tourism, but they say it's the price of patriotism.
>> "The change is nice for the locals, but if a stranger's coming in > without one of the new Dingle maps, it can be quite difficult," said > Sarah Brosnan, assistant manager of the Dingle Bay Hotel, which - like > most things connected to the tourist trade - won't be changing its > name.
>> In all, more than 2,300 towns, villages, fields and crossroads that > traditionally had both English and Gaelic names have had their > previously bilingual road signs changed to Irish only. The change > chiefly affects three far-flung regions of the western seaboard called > the Gaeltacht, which long has been nation's last stand in the battle > against English dominance.
>> There, English place names no longer have legal standing and may not > be used in government documents or on official Ordnance Survey maps. > The switch also applies in a few official Gaelic-speaking pockets of > County Meath, northwest of Dublin, and County Waterford in the > southeast.
>> On the breathtakingly beautiful Dingle peninsula in northwest County > Kerry, signs with English spellings were taken down weeks ago, even in > cases where the English versions remain popular in local parlance. > Local villages still principally known as Ballydavid, Castlegregory > and Ventry are now called only Baile na nGall, Caislean Ghriaire and > Ceann Tra.
>> Gaelic enthusiasts say such place names are redolent of local history > and eventually will prove less confusing for visitors - as long as > they are armed with updated or Gaelic-friendly maps.
>> Locals such as Brosnan, who went to an all-Gaelic school but speaks > English as her first language, say promoting Gaelic is a point of > pride.
Ger <email>
Dingle, Ireland Tue 03/29/2005
B&B in Dingle
Just wanted to say what a wonderful experience we had at the Milestone B&B in the Dingle Peninsula. Hosts Barbara and Michael were absolutely wonderful. They made you feel at home the moment you walked into their home. My wife and I were actually sad when we had to leave, it was like visiting family. Barbara is so helpful by telling you about the city, where to eat what to see where to go for music. Michael is also very helpful on places to go and see throughout Ireland. His advice on traveling throughout Ireland and how to get there was just great. Wonderful breakfast in the morning, different juices, fresh fruit, fresh bread Michael bakes every moring is just awesome, different choices for hot breakfasts, also ceral, an absolute feast. Would highly recommend staying at this B&B we will definitely be back.
Lee Williams <email>
Bellflower, CA USA Mon 03/28/2005
Northern Ireland in 3 Days!
Northern Ireland Tips
Yes! It is possible to get a feel for Ireland in only 3 days if you carefully limit your choice of venues.
We flew into Belfast and spent St. Patrick's Day night with friends in Bangor. Take a day and tour the amazing and muchly worth it Ulster Folk and Transport Museum just east of Belfast in Holywood. Original and imitation old buildings well done showing Ireland's history. Wear comfortable walking shoes as the museum covers a great deal of land with buildings quite spread out.
We stayed our last night in The Hastings Culloden Hotel right next door to the museum. A gorgeous great house with top of the line amenities. A fun pub just down the hill a short walk away. Excellent hotel restaurant, work out room, spa, and pool with HOT TUB!!!
Bushmills also well worth the drive with Giant's Causeway, huge rock formations in octagonal and rectangular forms stretching for miles along the coast to Carrick-a-Rede, a rope bridge 30m above the sea which local fishermen and tourists take to reach a salmon migration rock island. Larrybane nearby is a limestone headland with an Iron Age fort. Be careful not to slip as all these sights are wave-washed regularly.Baby sheep in every field.
Dunluce Castle right near there too and under reconstruction, but still an interesting stop.
On to Londonderry. (Don't get confused as locals call the town, Derry.) Very old walled central city. The Tower Hotel right in the midst clean and complete with modern pub and excellent brunch in their restaurant.Three days? Not enough by any means, but driving mostly on good roads and drivers throughout the U.K. far more polite than in the U.S.A. Auto Europe wonderful too.
Kim Cavarretta <email>
Baytown, Tx USA Sat 03/26/2005
Ireland trip
My husband and I recently returned from a trip to Ireland. We have both been several times. We used Rick's book more this time than previously. This time we were in Kinsale. We stayed at The Old Presbytery. Our experience there was fantastic. Our rooms were lovely and spacious. The breakfasts were delicious. The location is great and we had a water view. Nora and Philip were so helpful and friendly. We were the only guests for our last 3 days. We ate at Fishy Fishy 2 out of our 4 days there. The food was fantastic and the owners and servers were so friendly. We would just have soup in the evening at one of the many pubs in town. The walk out to the fort is great. The time there made both of us want to brush up on our history when we got home.Kinsale was wonderful. I'm sure it was alittle different for us since it was before tourist season, but we loved being there. Our weather was great--only one cloudy day. Rick's suggestions were very helpful. The town looks more European than Irish in the way it is tiered up the hills.We love the friendliness of the Irish. We've been to Dingle, Galway, Donegal, and of course, Dublin. Every trip has been wonderful and made us want to come back again. Rick's suggestions were especially helpful this time.
Pam Ryan <email>
Overland Park, Ks USA Tue 03/22/2005
A Week in Ireland
Bear in mind that we use public transportation exclusively so there may be a slight hike to places but not really more than fifteen minutes from a bus stop or train station.
Arrived Shannon airport on Sunday and caught bus to Limerick. A friend we met at the bus shed told us where to get off and instructed the driver to make sure he stopped there. He did and we walked up the short cul-de-sac to Glen Eagles (not that Glen Eagles, but very nice.) About 30 Euros pps ensuite. Helen and Patrick Daly
In Dingle on Monday we stayed at Dingle Heights. Ask for a front room overlooking the harbor. Bridie Fitzgerald was our hostess. Very nice view and about 30 Euros pps ensuite. We had our first, of many, bowl, of Irish stew at O'Grady's across from the tourist board along the waterfront. We lucked out and were able to attend a folk concert of harp, guitars, penny whistle at St. James Church. But we heard lots of music around town as we went back to our bnb after the concert. One place is a hardware store by day and a pub by night! We got cheated out of our tour to Slea Head by the well know local tour operator who renigged on our email reservation. So we will have to go back! And use someone else.
Stayed in Killarney at Cloghroe about 30 Euros pps ensuite, on Tuesday and did the Gap of Dunloe (three lakes by boat and through the Gap by jaunting car (otherwise a 7 mile walk) on Wednesday. Glad we didn't do the Ring of Kerry. Our hostess Margaret arranged the tour for us. Ate at Murphy's, known for it's pub grub.
Had to spend Wednesday night in Tralee since it is a long haul by bus from Killarney to Doolin. Stayed at The Willows, about five minutes from the bus station. About 30 Euros pps ensuite. On Mary's recommendation we went to the Grand Hotel and ate in the pub section. Excellent food. Next day we walked out (rode the bus back) to the Blennerville Windmill before having to catch our bus to Doolin.
On Thursday night in Doolin we stayed at Nellie Dees. The bus driver will drop you at the door if you ask and it is across the road from one of the hostels. Only about five years old, all wood floors, very nice. Jimmy and Loraine Spencer. About 30 Euros pps ensuite. It was a bit of a hike to downtown Doolin but there were two pubs (out of 3) very nearby where we spent the evening eating delicious Irish stew and listening to trad music at McDermott's.
The next morning we hiked into town ("just a wee walk and a right at the bridge"). We passed several bnbs on the way that looked nice. We caught the ferry to Inishoor. Had to ride a carrick out to the ferry because the tide was out. That was a neat experience, although my wife was not really keen on it but nobody fell overboard.
Arrived on Inishoor (Inishere) on Friday and headed to our bnb, Tigh Searraigh. About 25 Euros pps ensuite. Basic but clean and warm. Went for a tour around the island. It is only 2 km 2km so we knew we couldn't get too lost but the stone fences did start looking just like the last one. My wife got her Aran sweater made (supposedly) on the island. We went to pub (Fitzgerald's I think. There are only about 3 places to eat on the island) for supper and music. A bit of wait for the music but the food was great and the strawberry rhubarb pie was so good we ordered a second round. Bailey's ice cream on it was heavenly. I have never tasted such a delicious ice cream! Called it a night about 10 PM and was up the next day to catch the 9 AM ferry back to Doolin and 12 noon bus to Ennis for our last night before catching our flight out of Shannon.
Saturday night we stayed at Stonehaven in Ennis about 15 minute walk from bus station but Marie would have collected us if we had called. Very nice family, especially Joseph the 7 year old. About 30 Euros pps ensuite. Ennis is a market town and we were there Saturday, market day. Neat!
Back to the train/bus station for our bus to Shannon airport and on to Scotland..
Evan Jackson <email>
Virginia Beach, VA USA Wed 03/02/2005
Beach Cove B&B
Beach Cove B&B near Portmagee was wonderful. Owner Bridie was very pleasant. It was a very good price for the value. Our room was comfortable and it had a window overlooking St. Finan's Bay. Very nice!
keagle
Land O Lakes, FL USA Tue 02/22/2005
Beach Cove B&B
Beach Cove B&B near Portmagee was wonderful. The best B&B we stayed in while we were in Ireland. Owner Bridie was very pleasant. It was such a beautiful location and our room looked out directly onto St. Finan's Bay. All that for a great price.
keagle
Land O Lakes, FL USA Tue 02/22/2005
Waterford
Unless you just must see the crystal making factory, which was a good tour, avoid Waterford. The town itself was a disappointment and there are much more beautiful places in Ireland to spend your time. We should have taken the advise of some locals we met in Dublin that told us to skip it. If you just have to visit the crystal factory, do the tour and then keep on moving right out of Waterford.
keagle
Land O Lakes, FL USA Tue 02/22/2005
Ireland 2005 Feedback
We just used the 2005 book for our visit this January. We had a wonderful visit.
Accomodations, all were excellent.
Dublin hotel-Harding House has an excellent and historical location, with great rooms. Be sure to ask for rooms at the front of the hotel if you are a light sleeper. The hotel backs onto a hostel and the courtyard/smoking section is pretty noisy at night even in January. Dingle-The Alpine Guest House-Paul O'Shea is a wonderful host who knows and loves his town very much. The room was bright and comfortable with a great view of the harbor. Breakfast was enormous! Gray Gables in Ennis was lovely. Mary is very helpful and the room was comfortable. It is very well located as well. We'd stay at all of them again.
Food-We had very good, but bland food. Dublin-Leo Burdocks seemed closed for rennovation. Yamamori is good if you need a veggie fix but pretty bland. Dunnes department store is great for budget eaters who need a low price, low stress meal. Dingle-pub food at John Benny's was good-fish and chips with a salad. Warm fire on a cold rainy night. Pizza at Blue Zone was good, plus they have a good wine selection if you are tired of Guinness (is that possible?).
The frustrating-the Dingle circular tour drive was quite a frustrating event. Many places were hard to find due to several factors. First, signs were covered because they were 'closed' for the season. However, if you tried to see them, a man mysteriously appeared to tell you they were 'closed', yet he still got our 4Euros.. Secondly, Rick's tour is not very specific with directions. While we followed his directions to the last anal retentive detail, we still found our mileage off and missing several sights. Some things were not helpful like 'go through the kissing gate', which from the direction he sends you from, you cannot make out that it is a 'kissing gate', it just looks like part of the stone fence. Like that narrows it down! We really enjoyed the sights once we found them and would do it again, however, we'd take our GPS unit and write down exact coordinates for the next group of obsessive-compulsive people to follow us.
Dublin-should have allotted one more day here, we felt really rushed at the museums. They did a great job of tying together the many layers of Irish history. The National Museum, Dublin Castle and Kilmainham Gaol were especially good.
Dennis & Jew-Lee Goldsberry <email>
Jackson, MS USA Thu 01/27/2005
N. Ireland
Had a fantastic trip through Ireland, thanks to Rick's suggestions esp. regarding larger cities, like Dublin. We really enjoyed Northern Ireland (uncrowded, clean, warm welcomes from everyone!). I think Rick could really point out more in his book especially highlighting some of our new favorites towns: Hilsborough, Co. Down, Richhill and Loughhall, both in Co. Armagh which are extremely beautiful.
Between Dingle/Ring of Kerry we found Antrim Coast and Rathlin Island much more intriguing. Also easy to move onto Scotland from Larne. Didn't find much in his book regarding Strangford Lough area, in Co. Down, but we discovered many charming villages (Donaghadee, etc.) so we extended our stay.If you are planning a trip to Ireland GO NORTH! The Ulsterfolk are extremely proud of their heritage and are anxious to share it with visitors.
Gretschen Schatzheimer <email>
Cleveland, OH USA Sat 01/15/2005
BallyBeg B+B, Dingle.
Brillant B+B! Stayed at Ballybeg B+B and highly recommend it. Friendly & cosy and located at the foot of the Conor Pass road. Quiet & peacful, along the Dingle Way walk & close to the town & all it's amenities.
Angela
Colorado, USA Fri 01/14/2005
Milltown Cottages, Top class self-catering cottages in Dingle.
Excellent self-catering accommodation in Dingle town. First class! Cosy & charming cottages located near Milltown Bridge just a 6 minute walk from the town centre along the harbour. Sleeps 6, 3 bedrooms, large spacious living/dining & kitchen area with an open fire. We made Dingle our base to tour the peninsula & near by towns like Killarney, the Ring of Kerry, Blarney etc. Spent nights relaxing by the fire after cooking dinner & sipping a glass of wind discussing our day and what we hoped to do the next. It was a perfect stay, we will be back! Thank you for our perfect stay at Milltown Cottages!
Rosie
Santa Cruz, CA USA Fri 01/14/2005
Ireland - Dingle Penninsula
PS. Also wanted to highly recommend the tour of the Dingle Penninsula that is in the guidebook. The monastic ruins, the "beehive huts", the cemetaries, the history of the Blasket Islanders, the views - all were ancient and mysterious and fascinating and deeply spiritual - and gorgeous. Well worth it....there is a reason that Rick raves so much about the Dingle Penninsula in his book. Can't think of a more fulfilling travel experience that we've had - yet!
Wendy Baldwin <email>
Nashville, TN USA Wed 01/12/2005
Ireland experiences
We actually travelled in June, 2003, but are still glowing from the trip. RS guidebook was tremendously helpful. Great advice to sleep off jet lag OUT of Dublin. We found a lovely, basic B and B called Lichfield House, on the perimeter of Kilkenny, where we spent the first two nights. We found this on the internet, not in the guidebook, but I'd strongly urge you to include it, Rick. The rooms are reasonably priced, and the proprietress, Marie Callan, is professional, responds quickly to requests, and offers helpful advice and warm hospitality when you're there.
We were in Waterford as it celebrated it's 2000 year old birthday. What a thrill. The crystal factory is touristy but a "when in Rome" experience.
The drive out to "Hook's Head" point and the story of the expression "by Hook or by Crook" was way cool. Worth the drive down there from Waterford.
Rock of Cashel was magnificent - worth the trip. Kinsale was hard to reach - Tried the Quayside House at Rick's recommendation. Nice place, but not the warmth of most of the others, in terms of hospitality. Also, lots of construction in Kinsale. Maybe it's done now, and is therefore quieter and more charming?
Dingle was the highlight. Captain's House has great location, lovely garden, warm hospitality, and great rooms. We felt we had many new friends by the time we left Dingle. Rent bikes and explore the area....it's thrilling.
The literary and music pub crawls in Dublin were really fun - a great way to explore and learn something. Jurys Inn there has lots of Americans and is expensive, but at the end of the trip, was OK to prepare us for "re-entry" to the U.S. We missed the country B and B's, though.
Our week in early June was sunny every day. We kept saying to locals that we couldn't believe it, and one said "neither can we!" I've travelled a lot, and the Irish people we met were by far the most friendly of anywhere I've been.
There is a spiritual connection, I think, between Irish and Americans. I was tremendously moved by the stories of immigration, the plights of poverty, the breaking apart of families and romances, the constant invasions by the British....these are a people that have really suffered. Yet their bouyancy and joie de vivre inspires us as American who usually have more, materially.
Can't wait to go back, and explore the north next time!Wendy BaldwinNashville, TN.
Wendy Baldwin <email>
Nashville, TN USA Wed 01/12/2005
Had a fantastic time in Ireland for nine days. Quick run-down and a few, hopefully, helpful tips. Started out in Trim at Marc & Anns place "Crannmor Guest House" and it was lovely. We did our first two nights there to catch our breath. Was quiet and Marc was very helpful and chatty - and he really does know everything about fishing so if you fish - he's the guy to go to in Ireland.
After Trim we stayed at Celtic House in Kilkenny. Nice enough and owners were sweet. Very quiet again but I would ask for back room as I suspect it could be a bit noisy when full. We paid winter rate everywhere but this place should have charged a bit less in my opinion.
After that we went to Dingle (our fave!) and stayed at Cill Bhreac with Angela. Not in the book but definitely on this message board. It's very close to town - you could walk but easier to drive. Lovely view of the bay and Angela truly was the most friendly woman we met in Ireland - just a sweetheart. The B&B is simple enough but clean and was also the lowest rate we paid. We also hit her on her last open night until Feb. 25th when she re-opens.
Doolin was next for one night - stayed at Doonmacflelim House and was clean and nice. Nothing spectacular but decent and great location.
After that we spent a night at Petra House in Galway. Really is five minutes from square. Was the most lovely B&B - just very classy and nice - very quiet. Had the front room with bay window which felt huge. Also was great value for what we paid. Frank indicated they are booked a year in advance for summers though so their reputation preceeds them.
Finally, book ahead for a night in Dublin as we didn't and was just too hard to walk around our last night to find a place - so we stayed in Swords at Travelodge! Was cheaper than anything in Dublin and very close to the airport and we were flying out in am. At first glance, I shuddered - but it really wasnt' that bad and once again, was surprisingly quiet and they appeared relatively full.
As far as fun times - Dublin was interesting and we found Kilmainon Jail fascinating. We gave that a definite "must do" rating. We wish we had read some more history before going.
The Guinness tour is kind of lame actually - and self-service, you walk yourself around - but definitely hit the Gravity Bar for a pint and an incredible view.
Getting around Dublin was easy - we did it on foot and asked directions for local bus and off we went. People were quite helpful on the streets and in pubs absolutely everywhere we went. Dingle was a blast. Went to Dick Macks pub and loved it. Was only a few locals the first night. Give it time and stick around - it got funner as the night went on and we did go back a second night and we WERE adopted locals by then and it was packed with singers and musicians and we had a ball. A memory making night to be sure. The wonderful restaurant people have mentioned "Out of the Blue" is closed for the season - but we met the owner, Tim, at the pub and he was a great guy. The locals said it really was the best fish around.
The peninsula drive - worth it and fun. Stop and enjoy scenery and walk around when you can. Went to Bunratty Castle but opted out of expensive tour - just isn't our thing. Headed to Cliffs of Moher instead and they are breathtaking. It was cold up there though! Be prepared for rain and when it's windy, it's chilly. Don't really need hiking books though unless you intend on doing some major trekking. I just brought really comfortable Skechers and I was fine. Doolin was okay and music was okay and pubs were full on the weekend - but Dingle set a high bar for us so we were a little disappointed in Doolin and it's tiny!! Really wanted to hit that crafts place everyone mentions but they are closed Sun/Mon. Wish we had time for more, in particular I would have loved to go north - but maybe next time!
Nit picky stuff: Driving was fine. My guy did it all and with a stick - but he's a pretty confident driver. We just drove around and got used to it and kept repeating "driver in the middle of the road" and all was well. In November didn't find traffic that bad at all. Yep, signs aren't great but they are mostly there if you are looking. Just take your time. It helped that we had no real itinerary and only booked those first nights in Trim ahead of time (maybe give your CC number as we didn't and almost didn't have a room due to a little snafu on their end)! Get the full insurance, yeah, it's more expensive but we ran into several people who needed it in the end! Pull over on the shoulder a bit, slow up when you can and let locals pass. They appreciate that. You just can't complain too much about the little roads, etc - that's half the charm of the place and it helps keep the ingrates out I'm sure!
Bring an umbrella, you'll be glad you did. I'm bummed that we missed Belfast and other northern sites - but next time! Enjoy and say hello to Martine the Bartender at Dick Macks (he only looks tough and sound gruff - turns out he's a sweetie)...maybe don't let him know someone is saying that about him. Relax, kick back - it's all good craic!
Kerry <email>
Saint Paul, MN USA Fri 12/03/2004
Beware of Irish Car Rentals & Sixt Rent a Car
If you are planning a trip to Ireland, stay away from Irish Car Rentals or locally know as Sixth Rent-A-Car. We are currently fighting an unauthorized charge for "damages" that appeared on my Visa statement when we arrived home from Ireland, after renting a car from Irish Car Rentals also locally know as Sixth Rent-A-Car.
To make a really long story short, the original car we picked up from the Dublin airport was seriously damaged, but the only evident problem was a few scratches that we reported. Once we were on our way, 15 minutes into the trip on the motorway, the front bumper separated from the car and part of the bumper and wires began dragging on the roadway. As you can imagine, after a delayed flight from San Francisco with a small toddler, this was a very stressful and scary situation. We feel that our safety was at risk.
Since it was a Saturday evening and dark at this point, we drove very slowly to our destination 30 minutes away. When we arrived at our destination, we immediately contacted the rental company and after multiple calls over the next two days, they delivered a new car and assured us that we would not be charged for any damages. When we returned the second car back at the Dublin Airport two weeks later, we requested a refund for the two days in which we were without a car at the beginning of our trip which they gladly accommodated--with no mention or receipt of the charges (750 Euro) they already made against my credit card when they delivered us the new car.
We then disputed the claim with our credit card company which they investigated and have claimed that the charge is valid. We just received a letter with a copy of the proposed sales slip for the work performed on the damages that they are claiming, which they indicate is the "back bumper."So if you are planning to rent a car in Ireland, stay away from Irish Car Rentals.
Michele MC <email>
San Francisco, CA USA Thu 12/02/2004
Just Back from Ireland
Just recently returned from 2 weeks in Ireland. I would recommend the off-season due to lower prices and no crowds. A few things were closed, but we felt we didn't miss anything we really wanted to see. I found the driving on the left to be fairly easy to get used to, but would definitely recommend automatic transmission, compact car, and full insurance. We had a Michelin map and had used the aaroadwatch.ie web site ahead of time to map out our itinerary. It proved to be very helpful, less missing of turns.
We started out at the Shannon Airport, went to Galway and the Connemara, down to Dingle and Ring of Kerry, through Cork and Cobh to Kinsale, through Waterford to Kilkenny, through Wicklow Mountains to Dublin, and then dropped off the car at Dublin before taking time there.
Some of our favorite things were: driving through the Connemara, slog on a bog, eating traditional Irish food, plenty of pubs and Guinness, Alpine House B&B in Dingle, the drive around Dingle Peninsula (much better and shorter than Ring of Kerry), Smokehouse Restaurant in Dingle town, Murphy's pub in Dingle, Midleton Distillery (I was chosen as an official taster), Sally's Gap in Wicklow Mountains, Newgrange (took Mary Gibbons tour from Dublin), Gogarty's Pub in Dublin, Literary Pub Crawl, Musical Pub Crawl (very interesting and entertaining), hop on bus tour and walking tour of Dublin (both tours covered different areas).
We found Jurys Inn Christchurch to be a good location and easy to get to from the Airlink bus to airport. We took the one day train trip to Belfast and found that to be plenty of time. By all means get a black cab tour of Belfast (www.blackcabtoursni.com). The driver we had (Billy) was fantastic and showed us all the Protestant and Catholic areas. I came away with a much better understanding of what has gone on there and why. We ate lunch at the Crown Tavern, definitely worth seeing.
Pat <email>
St. Louis, MO USA Tue 11/30/2004
Guinness Brewery
We recently went on the Guinness Brewery Tour. If you are interested in how beer is made then it might be worth the 20 euro charge. The restaurants at the top are good, the view is excellent. One pint of Guinness is given free. Not worth the money for just a view of the city and a pint.
Marvin Thomas <email>
Huntington Beach, CA USA Thu 11/25/2004
FISHING
The Aran Islands, went there once before, a boat from Doodlin. And in the middle of crossing the motor ran out of gas, the boat was stuck rocking side ways in the middle of Irish sea. Got there eventually. There were German tourist on board as well, and by they I puked up. The breakfast. Also went back there went out fishing, cod. A paddle boat, used fish nets.
PATRICIA <email>
toronto, ontario canada Thu 11/25/2004
New B&B
I found a wonderful Bed and Breakfast in Kenmare. It is called Driftwood and is walking distance to Kenmare. The B&B is new and the proprietors were fabulous. I was the there off season and was the only person there. They were very friendly, the home was very clean, and they even invited me to dinner!!! I highly recommend staying with them if you are in the area.
Marge Pearce <email>
Warrenton, VA USA Mon 11/15/2004
The Little Skillet, Kinsale - SOLD
The Little Skillet in Kinsale has recently been sold. What a loss! On two separate visits to Ireland I enjoyed my favorite meals of each trip. Dinner on both occasions was the best, melt in your mouth salmon I had in all of Ireland, followed by a berry crumble topped with ice cream AND double cream for dessert. All eaten in the warm, cozy dining room while Anne thoughtfuly looked after her guests.
Another note: the new proprietors will no longer offer bed and breakfast.
GCP
CO USA Sat 11/13/2004
SW Ireland
CAR - read the agreement closely, so you will be prepared. I had Super Collision Damage waiver. It did not cover tires or wheels. Which basically means if you get a flat tire or lose a wheel cover, you are on the hook to fix or replace it. I lost a wheel cover going through a pothole. Went to a Nissan dealer to have it replaced as it was cheaper than having the rental company bill me for it.
PATIENCE - you will get lost a lot of roads don't have signs. Don't get uptight, it's part of the charm. I saw a couple waving a map around and yelling at each other (sadly Americans making a scene).
PEOPLE - take the time to talk with them, there are some really wonderful folks who are happy to share. Don't make your trip just photos of places.
B&B - If you will be touring a good bit in the Cashel area (Rock, Holy Cross Abbey, Cahir Castle, Swiss Cottage, etc), you might want to consider a B&B in Bansha. It is between Tipperary & Cahir. It's called Bansha House. Mary's home is a lovely Georgian on a 100 horse farm. You are free to roam their property. Gorgeous views of mountains, steeples, horses etc. Washcloths are here for those who like 'em. Mary kindly welcomed us jetlagged souls after our first day in Ireland. She asked about our plans for the next day. She politely let us know our schedule might be a little too ambitious and we would not make it to the town we planned to stay in the next night until very late. She was right and we were very greatful we spent another night at Bansha House rather than trying to race to the next place. Breakfast was wonderful and dinner was a pleasure. We even spent part of the evening in front of the fireplace chatting with Mary. This was the first B&B my friend had experienced and at trip's end she said no place else we stayed measured up to Mary's, I agree!
Melody
USA Fri 11/12/2004
Just back from Ireland
A few more things for your future informed Ireland travel (from last week):
1. pay attention to Rick's words about the unmarked roads between Kinsale and Cobh, it's true. Stop and ask questions.
2. The Olde Bakery B&B in Kinsale (in Rick's book) was very warm and comfortable. Chrissey Quigley and her husband Tom were funny, friendly and informed. Good political dicussion.
3. Trim Castle was wonderful and evocative. Right in Trim along the river. Great walk and views around it.
4. Galway - Kennedy park is being refurbished. It's fenced off with no access.
5. The Burren is spectacular - and unlike anything we;d ever seen before. Great vistas, Dolmens and circular forts.
6. Ennis, Co. Clare is an interesting work-a-day town. Has a great medieval street lay-out and friendly folks,
7. We recommend Kilkenny as a great place to wander and enter the past. Castle tour is interesting and informative.
8. Adare is a bit overblown as a cute town.
9. Dun Laoghaire is a great place to stay when visiting Dublin (7 miles south). Rick is right when he says that it has plenty of places to eat and drink, plus it has the sea! Dart train is easy and fast, but know that the Tara street station is closed. Use the Pearce St. station instead.ENJOY!!
George Geanuleas <email>
Glenside, PA USA Fri 11/12/2004
Great Dingle B&B
We visited Dingle last week and had to stay in a non-Rick B&B. The B&B is called the First Cottage and it was great. It's on the street that runs along the water (great view from our room), called "An Choill". Joe and Julie Lynch treated us like family and gave us an incredible fruit salad for breakfast (with kiwi fruit). Their friendly and insightful conversation was one of the highlights of our trip. We highly recommend this wonderful place.
George Geanuleas <email>
Glenside, PA USA Thu 11/11/2004
The best of 19 days
After 19 days in Ireland from October 13th to October 31st here are the best of the bestB&Bs Lurgan House 2km from Westport-wonderful people stayed three nights and photographed in the area. I am a professional fine art photographer.
Springfield House near Clonakilty. This is a farm house B&B with Maureen who is helpful and full of fun. St. Bridgets near Rathdrum which is in the Avocal valley. Stayed two nights and visited Glendaloch and other place in the area. Highly recommend all three of these and they are not in Rick's book so check them out. Recommend you skip the ring of Kerry and do the Mizen head point instead. Great views of the raging North Atlantic.
As to the rest of the trip. Best place for pictures was Dingle and the area. Also Connemara along the coast. You will need an Ordnance Atlas to travel on your own and this can be ordered here before you leave. Driving was more difficult then we imagined due to narrow roads and being on the OTHER side.
Best food was the Half Door at Dingle. Best meal I have had in my life. That is in Rick's book. Had no trouble finding places to stay but the weather was cooler and rainier then we expected.
We flew in and out of Shannon which was no hastle and stayed at the Great Southern Hotel at the airport both going and coming. Jet lag took its toll and slowed us down the first day or so. Also recommend Clifden. Out of the way place but very nice. Ireland is green green and more green. I will be putting my images on my website at www.carolhaubner.com. This will not be for a month or so. For the photographers out there, I used a Canon EOS10D and was able do recharge the batteries with just the plug adapter. Had to do a lot of research to find the info on that. Email with questions if you have them. Carol
Carol Haubner <email>
New Brighton, MN USA Wed 11/10/2004
Ireland
I have so much to say about my trip to Ireland! I will be writing a travelogue for my Masters Thesis about my experiences! My fiance and I ran the Dublin marathon in conjunciton with our trip so that was a plus.
What I would like to add that was not in Rick's book was drive the Conner Pass on the way to Dingle. It was magnificant, really narrow roads but worth the effort! It is a bit tricky to find my but the locals can help you. It is on the way in from the Tralee end not the south end.
Also, we stayed on a farm with Sheep! I was so excited I wished we could have stayed andworked all day! It was called Springfield B&B in Rathmore on the way to Dublin.I will come back to this member's page when I have my entire travelogue completed and let you know wherer you can go to view it. I will have all the tips and wonderous places we stayed in and saw.Thank you! I read ALL the members' page prior to leaving and it gave us all kinds of ideas.Karen in California Krunz@adelphia.net
Karen <email>
Seal Beach, CA USA Tue 11/09/2004
stay in Bunratty
My husband and I just returned from two weeks in Ireland and had a fabulous time. We stayed in a few B&B's recommended by Rick and we were not disappointed. However, we decided to stay in Bunratty for our first two nights and found this amazing hotel, Bunratty Manor Hotel. It was a small, personal place a short drive from Shannon Airport. Our host (Noel) cooked us a huge breakfast every morning and treated us like family. He arranged for us to go horseback riding with a friend of his (we are experienced riders and did not want to just go pony trekking). He went out of his way to make our stay comfortable and we could not recommend his place enough. Toward the end of our stay in Ireland we changed out plans slightly and decided to spend our last night back at Bunratty Manor Hotel so we would be close to the airport. We had someone make a reservation for us and when we walked back in to the hotel we were greeted warmly. I know Rick says to stay away from the Bunratty area but even if someone was looking for a place close to the airport for first and last nights, Bunratty Manor Hotel is a great option.
Kelley Hoey <email>
West Concord, MN USA Tue 11/02/2004
A few helpful hints -- western Ireland
My husband and I just returned from 10 days in Ireland -- 3 in Connemara, 2 in Doolin, 2 in Dingle, 1 night in Kenmare and 1 night on the Shannon River (Bay) on the way to the airport.Here are some lifesavers that we'd like to pass on to other travellers:
1. HEAVY HIKING BOOTS. In our opinion, for any nature/outdoors lover in Ireland, a must! No matter how cumbersome and how crazy you feel, wear your thickest, warmest hiking boots on the plane ride over. In your carry-on, pack slippers and relax with your boots off on the plane. Our heavy boots were utterly invaluable as we spontaneously hiked through graveyards and hills in Connemara, visited the wood trails behind Ballynahinch Castle in southern Connemara, did a four-hour walk over the very rugged limestone Burren (even though the "brilliant" Shane Connolly provides walking sticks), and walked up and down the ruins scattered throughout the Dingle Peninsula. The ground is rugged, spongy, always wet and often cold.
2. CAR INSURANCE -- Get the smallest car you possibly can, make sure it's an automatic (you won't be able to shift left-handed, without a lot of angst) and buy the full coverage for piece of mind. Many roads are no more than alleyways and our rides over the top of the Ballyskelligs Road and Connors Pass were stunningly beautiful, but mind-boggling and terrifying.
3. BATHING HELPS -- If you're a bath nut like I am, our plastic bottle of liquid soap and our two dark washcloths (packed and repacked in a plastic large sandwich bag) allowed us to get clean fast -- whether in cramped showers or long, narrow bathtubs. I need a few amenities, and washcloths are rarely seen.
4. DRESS IN LAYERS, AS NEEDED -- We went to a wedding in Connemara, so we were forced to take more than one-third more than we needed for three nights of festivities and dress-up. But, for October, we brought exactly the right kind of clothes -- two turtlenecks, two fleece tops, one reversible windproof vest, two woolen sweaters. One pair blue jeans, one pair black jeans. That's really all you need. Waterproof jackets, scarf, hat, gloves, of course. If you want to go to a "posh" place or a medieval banquet, wear some crush-proof black pants, one of your sweaters and a scarf or wild jewelry. Keep it light and you'll be happy.
Doolin is fabulous. Do whatever you have to do to get there. Such a magical, quiet, little place on the edge of the Atlantic. Incredible traditional music in three pubs, two within easy walking distance of each other. We saw five 25-year-olds playing the boudrain (drum) elbow pipes, banjo, mandolin, flute, guitar, etc. So nice to know that everything is being passed on to the next generation. An older man said the young drum-player was a "grand master drummer and has a voice like an angel." We concur. Another man in the center pub sprang up to do a capella "laments" in front of the peat fire. A fiddler set the beat with one group in one pub on Sunday night and a different group in another bar on Monday night. Warm welcome and conversation in all. This is the real thing.
The Doolin Crafts store was the best we saw anywhere. Outstanding quality, more Celtic modern in scarves, sweaters and jewelry and even a sales room. Ballyvaughan, Lisdoonvarna, Kiffenora are all charming towns nearby and worth exploration (we didn't have the time, unfortunately, although we did manage to hit the Sunday afternoon local crafts festival in Ballyvaughan). Definitely do the Burren Walk with Shane O'Connolly. You'll love his "oh, cripes" remarks and his Socratic questioning method of teaching botany, history, archeology, geology, legend, etc. He believes "the older ones" were right about "the little people," I think.
We loved the Alpine Guest House in Dingle -- very spacious rooms and great breakfasts. Do Rick's Dingle Peninsula tour to the letter. Add the Kavanaugh Famine Cottage near the first fort. We spent an hour there -- great detailed explanation of the 1845-7 famine. Pottery left on the table, clothes left in the hutches, just as they were when family members were discovered dead. Among the red deer, goats, cattle and sheep in the Kavanaughs' fields high up on the hills, we swore we saw a unicorn -- small, stout, glisteningly-white, feathery, long white mane, and soul-searching blue eyes. (Where was she hiding her horn?) The Blasket Island Center deserves an hour of your time -- great exhibits, makes you fall in love with the last of the Islanders.
We had one of the best meals of our lives at "The Club" in Kenmare. It's on a side street, the one that leads to the beautifully-intact stone circle. It's very modern, red and black leather banquettes, placemats, and lamps, jazz murals and music, but awesomely inventive, with the freshest ingredients possible. The salad was full of huge clover and luscious greens. I ordered the haunch of venison. Many fabulous restaurants in Kenmare, but their menu was by far the most outlandish and creative. Also a much better value for your money than Packie's, according to our hosts at the Willow Lodge in Kenmare. Stay there, as Rick recommends. Greta is Irish and Edgar is English, with a wicked sense of humor and wit. You'll love them both.
I could go on and on about the massive, rugged, magnificent landscape on all the peninsulas, our 6-12 rainbows/day, small-town surprises and loveable people. Such a blessing to have experienced it all!
Robin R. Mueller <email>
House Springs, MO USA Tue 10/26/2004
Ireland trip 2
It appears that a few of my towns were accidentally missed from my message below....
Kenmare- Water's Edge B&B was newly built, clean, and the host was very friendly as well. Would definitely recommend this one as well. "An Leath Phingin" restaurant had great italian dishes at very reasonable prices. Very nice sunset on the river at either the bridge or the "safari" tour pier area.
Mizen head- This peninsula and Barley Cove beach (wouldn't miss) are very scenic and not far out of the way. I would recommend a visit for a couple of hours.
Kilkenny- Our first B&B had to cancel our reservation, but they recommended a great substitute, Cnoc Muire B&B. The house was nice, convenient, and the host was very helpful, giving us a list of things to do etc. Highly recommend. Kyteler's pub and Tynan's Bridge Bar are highly recommended as well. Restaurant Rinucinni has great italian food, but found some aspects to be a little snobby. The Kilkenny castle outside and park area were nice.
Shan <email>
USA Mon 10/25/2004
Ireland recommendations
I returned on thursday 10/21 from a 10 day ireland trip and found Rick Steve's 2004 and this board to be very helpful. We met many Rick Steve's travelers along the way as well. Hopefully my recommendations will be helpful to some as well.
Dromoland castle- great accomodations, treated like kings/queens.
Doolin- Stayed at Harbourview B&B, which was adequate. Ate at Mcgann's pub, which was very good and affordable. The other two pubs, oconnors and mcdermotts were fun too. Cliffs of Moher only a couple of miles a way were great.
Dingle- Cill Bhreac B&B was great! Anglea is probably the most friendly person in ireland, and was most helpful to us. I would definitely recommend staying here in Dingle. Rick's Dingle peninsula guide was great and probably my favorite part of the trip. The Old Smokehouse restaurant had great food. O'flaherty's pub is a great place for irish music.
Kinsale- Rivermount house has a great view of the river valley and friendly hosts. The house is clean and nicely decorated. Hoby's restaurant in town had the best salmon dish and other great food. The Spaniard pub had good atmosphere atop the town.
Dublin- Temple Bar Hotel is in a great location, within walking distance to the main parts of town such as temple bar, grafton street, etc. I would ask for a room not on the street side as it got a little loud with the bars & such on one night. If not, at least get the top floor as we had. The "hop on/hop off" bus tour is a great way to see the city and get taxied around as well. The Guinness tour is a bit lame except for the gravity bar at the end makes it worth it. The Stags head bar was a favorite for its decor and atmosphere.
Shan <email>
USA Sun 10/24/2004
Ireland Book
When planning a trip, the first thing I do is buy Rick's books on the country, or countries. Just bought one for my 3rd trip to Ireland. One great landmark is Gallorus Oratory, on the Dingle Peninsula. Remember driving, in Ireland, is slower than driving in the US. Shop for car rentals before going to Ireland. Don't ignore the major US car hires. Spend more time in the countryside than the towns and cities. Emjoy the cuisine that has improved tremendously in the past 12 years.
Barbara <email>
Seaford, DE USA Mon 10/11/2004
Driving in Ireland
A few of my thoights on driving in Ireland.A small car is essential. When driving through small towns the roads almost always run directly down the main street which will be quite narrow, have cars parked half on and half off the sidewalks,and pointed in all directions.(Wine St. Sligo)
If you drive on any of the smaller one lane roads the left side of your car will be scratched from all the bushes and rock walls,road signs are virtually non existant or hidden behind shrubs and some signs are in kilometers and some in miles.The nice wide two lane road with the paved shoulders you are driving on may suddenly turn into a narrow cow path with a bridge that is one lane. Traffic coming from one direction has to stop until there is no oncoming traffic.
You definitely do not need to worry about going to sleep while driving because the first day can border on sheer terror, especially if you are uncertain of directions and it is pouring down rain.
After about three days driving on the left seems normal and you begin to relax. I might add that I am 60 years old so someone who is younger may not have as much anxiety.
Allow yourself plenty of time and NEVER go into a pub and ask the locals when they are going to stop driving on the wrong side of the road.I heard this on more than one occasion from people who I am assuming were from the USA.
Pat Hogan <email>
Wichita, KS. USA Fri 10/08/2004
Driving in Ireland
We did a driving tour of Southern Ireland this past summer. While we agree completely with "don't drive in Dublin" we really think that Ireland is a great place to have a car. Many of the things we enjoyed were outdoor activities-hiking, exploring ruins in cow pastures, the Dingle Peninsula tour, not to mention the Ring of Beara. I'm not sure how we would have done these without a car. We also made good use of the scenic routes - picked up lunch ahead of time as we were on our way out of town, then drove a route (usually recommended by our b & b hosts) that would include a lunchtime stop. We had sandwiches at a stone circle overlooking the sea and at the top of The Vee (great scenic pass between Cashel & Blarney).
It is very important to have a good map (Michelin) and I did have to continually check to be sure we were on the right track. I do recommend the extra insurance on the car. The roads are quite narrow and we scratched up against a lot of bushes. And finally, take to heart the advice to double the amount of time you think it will take to get somewhere. We only misjudged one day and it meant missing something I wanted to see, but the other 2 weeks we were pretty well on target by allowing plent of time.
Karen <email>
Atlanta, GA USA Fri 10/08/2004
Shannon Hotel
Seeking suggestions for a reasonable hotel near Shannon Airport to sleep away the jetlag.
Melissa
Troy, MI USA Thu 10/07/2004
More tips on driving!
I posted my other comments on 8/9 but had some further advice when seeing some of the others bad driving comments. I'm very glad that we drove, but it is very nerve-wracking those first few days. And the signage is horrible -- often arrows pointing in a direction and they may be obscured by trees plan on getting lost a little, and enjoy it as much as you can (easier said than done).A GPS would be great, but my research led me to believe that Ireland won't sell their map information.
The www.ireland.ie can give you very good directions. I'd suggest to print those and then review those with the Ordnance Survey (if you are driving BUY this book/map). The times that website gives for driving are very optimistic. I could only manage those times on the major highways (very limited) or well into our two week trip when I was comfortable driving on that side of the road. When we passed signs my wife would consult the map to make sure we were still headed in the right direction. This allowed us to catch misturns quickly before losing a lot of time. My wife learned how to read a map and navigate on this trip as I drove.We never got to the town we were going too very early, but we had a cell phone to call innkeepers so they'd hold our room.
To give you an idea of how we organized it our driving days were:
1. Dublin - Powerscourt - Glendalough - Cashel
2. Cashel - Waterford
3. Waterford - Midleton - Cobh - Kinsale
4. Kinsale - Muckross (arrived too late to do much) - Kenmare
5. Ring of Kerry - Dingle
6. Dingle - Tralee - Cliffs of Moher - Burren Drive - Galway
7. Galway - Oughterrad - Cong - Leenaun - Kylemore Abbey - Murrisk - Westport
8. Westport - Stokestown - Belleek - Derry
9. Derry - Portrush
10. Portrush - Monsteraboice - Trim - Dublin
David
Allen, TX USA Thu 10/07/2004
Lynfield B&B in Galway
I would not recommend the Lynfield B&B in Galway. Bathroom was very moldy, bedside lamps broken, beds were just barely comfortable and the on-site manager did not speak enough English to answer any questions we might have.
CM <email>
Denton, TX USA Thu 10/07/2004
Driving in Ireland late Sept 2004
Don't drive in Ireland if you can avoid it! It is confusing and terrifying, there are no street signs, and it feels like the other drivers are aiming for you. Had to cut most of our planned stops and had to pay for a cancelled night at a B&B as a result. Took most of the fun out of the vacation. If you must drive, get the smallest car possible, and expect to get lost...a lot. Help from the locals is spotty and you will often feel you are on your own!The only good driving was in the Shannon and Limerick areas, where the streets are impeccably well-marked. Don't drive in Dublin unless you are insane!
Overrated: Dublin's Trinity College and Book of Kells. Tour guide was a snotty kid who didn't say much about the college. The Book was overrated, and given the way it's displayed you really only see the Page of Kells.
Underrated: Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. Plenty to see, and easy on the travel-weary.
Dublin: Kilmainham Gaol was the highlight for us.
Cashel: Rock of Cashel was cool and TI in Cashel was GREAT!
In Kilkenny: Langton's is overpriced and the food is mediocre.
Budget: Used the 2003 guidebook and found that most prices had increased. Whatever your travel budget, increase it by 25% for the terrible exchange rate.
Camille Hooper <email>
Port St. Lucie, FL USA Sun 10/03/2004
Butler Court Kilkenny
We frequently travel to Kilkenny City and always stay at Bulter Court on Patrick Street. This accomodation is very central in this busy little city, yet it is peacefully quiet and secure.The proprietor, Yvonne Dalton is a delightfully friendly and helpful person who runs a fine establishment. The rooms are immaculatley clean, comfortable and bright. Butler Court has the best shower we have ever found in any place in Ireland. Absolutley great value for money spent.
You will receive a prompt response when you contact them through their website www.butlercourt.comPatricia MackayPrince Edward Island Canada
Patricia MacKay <email>
Charlottetown, PEI canada Thu 09/30/2004
Ireland
Rick:For your readers that fly into Shannon airport that wish to have a place either the day they arrive or the day before they leave I strongly recommend the small town ofAdere less than an hour from Shannon south on N21. Adare dates back to midievel times and has a castle, Abbey and church. There is an informative history museum of the area in the same building as the tourist office. A row of thatchc cottages still exist in which there are two very good restaurants.
A jewel of a B and B is The Adare Country House. It is only four years old, comfortably appointed,resonably priced, walking distance to town and run by Denis and Eileen Moroney and their two lovely daughters. They have ten en suite rooms. Phone 00353 61 395986,fax 00353 61 395986. I believe your readers would appreciate knowing about this town and B and B.Roger Hill
Roger Hill <email>
Berkeley, CA USA Thu 09/23/2004
Good Bad & Ugly
We visited Ireland Sept 11-17 for the first time and used Rick's guidebook.
The good: Dingle Peninsula drive following Rick's guide. Kinsale's ghost tour, shopping, and food. Foyle BnB in Kinsale was our favorite. The Midleton Distillery and pubs. Guinness tour in Dublin, and Trinity College / Book of Kells. I don't think we had a bad meal the whole trip.
The bad: Dingle pubs were disappointing with the exception of The Dingle Pub. Dingle locals were unfriendly, I think they were tired of tourist season. Not much music available, maybe because we were there on a Sunday night?
The Ugly: Road construction on N22 west of Cork, we lost a day messing with (lack of) detour signs and traffic. If driving in Dublin, a superior street map is a MUST, but the roads are marked so poorly it may not matter. Road markings are poor throughout the country so if you do see a sign, slow down and read it. If unsure, backtrack and read again! You may not see another sign for quite a while. Don't be in a hurry when you're driving, allow lots of time.
Overall we loved the country and plan on another trip. Even had sunny weather most of the time though didn't mind the rain either. Slea Head in storm was absolutely breathtaking.
Matt <email>
San Diego, CA USA Tue 09/21/2004
Wonderful Ireland
This was our third trip to Europe using Rick's book. It is invaluable! Ireland was wonderful. Our favorite towns were Doolin, Dingle and Kenmere. Favorite hotel was Heatons in Dingle. Mary O'Brien at the Hawthorn House was so accommmodating. Favorite pub was O'Conners in Doolin. Didn't find the driving as difficult as everyone warned. We rented an automatic.The people of Ireland go out of their way to be helpful and friendly.
Linda <email>
Sewell, NJ USA Fri 09/17/2004
Tips for first time visitors
Just came back from 2 weeks in Ireland, our first trip there. Wonderful! A few tips for first timers:
Rick's book says not to wear sneakers/tennis shoes/etc. or you'll look like a tourist. This may have been true once, but it sure isn't any longer. We saw folks in sneakers (white, grey, whatever) everywhere, even in small towns, and many were obviously locals (we could tell by their accent, or what they were doing, even several musicians in pubs). So don't worry about your shoes- just make sure they're comfortable.
Driving is going to take longer- a lot longer- than you think. It's quite nerve- racking, between driving on the other side, the very narrow & winding roads, and the lack of street & directional signs. We had to cut about 2 days worth of traveling out of our trip because it took so much longer to get anywhere than we had expected. It really helps to have both a compass & a magnifying glass (for reading tiny map print). Also, be aware that your nice wide, roomy national road (highway) will turn into a teeny-weeny, twisty side street at the drop of a town (which are everywhere along your way from one place to another). Charming, yes, but bound to slow your travel time.
We recommend NOT staying in Cobh- stay in or near Cork and take the train (about 30 minutes) into Cobh if you want to visit. We just didn't find much to do in Cobh, and we found Cork much more interesting.
If you're planning on staying in a Rick Steves' recommended accomodation- better book ahead! Everywhere we went, the places that were in the book were full, while other places had plenty of room. Coincidence? I don't think so.
Drinking fountains are virtually non-existent; you're better off filling a bottle at your B&B or buying bottled water & keeping it with you.
Payphones were quite hard to find outside of the cities; if you have a cell phone that you can use in Ireland (get the unlock codes before you go), that's best. If you get a phone card, try to make sure it's a good one- don't ask me how. We bought a 10 Euro card at the TI in Dublin, after being told it would work on any push button phone. Yes, true- but we only got 26 minutes of time out of it! Not a very good rate.
Caution: TI offices are often closed on weekends, at lunchtime, before 10 am or after 5 pm, especially after Sept. 1st. We had trouble finding open TIs when we needed them.
Internet cafes are everywhere, so make use of e-mail as much as you can to contact folks back home.
Overall, a great trip, can't wait to go back.
Jennifer
OR USA Tue 09/14/2004
Cashel-Dingle-Ennis
Derrynaflan B&B (Ballinure) near Cashel is not in Rick's book, but should be. Sheila makes their own cheese and jam, and a super breakfast. We even got to see a new litter of W. Highland pups! However, the B&B entrance is hard to spot at night. We did Cahir Castle and the Rock in one day; Davern's restaurant (Cashel) has excellent food.
Dingle's Wildflower Cottage was one of the best B&Bs (an apartment) we stayed in. Located next to Dingle pier with an incredible view, it has a wildflower patio and a friendly neighbor dog. Marianne (Seattle native) and Tom are very welcoming. Rick's Slea Head and Burren driving itineraries were great, so glad we brought them.
Old Ground Hotel (Ennis) was a great way to end the trip. Irish Arms pub (Lisdoonvarna) and Poets Corner pub (Old Ground) had good food at decent prices and friendly locals.
Robin <email>
Boston, MA USA Wed 09/01/2004
Driving time
Rick's Ireland guide was extremely beneficial- the BEST! - except for estimated travel times by car. Add 25% at a minimum to what he has posted - at least during high season, anywhere outside of the Dublin metro area.
Also, the national law resticting pub access to the under 18 crowd after 9pm made it impossible for our family to experience live Irish music in that venue (in Dingle, Kinsale, Cobh, Trailee, Galway City etc). We did find an alternative. Some hotels, like the Club House in Kilkenney, put on a traditional show in a room adjacent to the hotel bar. In Dublin, there were many options such as Taylors Irish Night (a tourist trap that rises well above the tour bus crowd environment because of the talented Merry Ploughboys,professional"Riverdance"look alikes, and surprisingly gourmet food)
Bill Kerekes <email>
Hempstead, NY USA Sat 08/28/2004
Ballyegan House, Dingle
A friend and I recently stayed in Ballyegan House in Dingle town, and were very unhappy with our stay. We found the proprietors unfriendly and we were uncomfortable because of it. When we cancelled our second night, we were yelled at and told to pay for the second night, which we refused. We had made our booking the day of, and felt that being a Saturday night in August they wouldn't have trouble filling the room. After that we were told very loudly to leave immediately and never stay there again, as well as being told repeatedly not to steal the room key. It's likely that they've probably had bad experiences in the past, but this behavior was completely uncalled for. We were not trouble makers. I've lived in Ireland for the last 2 years, and have never experienced anything like it.
Dingle is a lovely place, and there are many other B&Bs to choose from. Others I recommend from past experience are the Lantern Townhouse (very central); and I highly recommend the Blue Haven Lodge, which is a few miles west of Dingle. Reasonably priced, and a nice break from the typical Irish B&B experience if you're tired of the traditional fry and don't enjoy chatting with strangers first thing in the morning. Plus they have a hot tub...
Liz <email>
OR USA Wed 08/25/2004
Ireland Trip Reviw addition
Sorry-forgot to say the name of the B & B in Corofin (Burren) that was so great - Clifden House with Jim & Bernadette. Highly recommend it.
Karen <email>
atlanta, GA USA Fri 08/20/2004
Ireland Trip Review
Just back from Ireland - another great trip for our family of 4 (2 teens) using Rick and the graffiti board for planning purposes. We liked: Dublin - Kilronan House was a wonderful start - nice people, good location near St. Stephen's Green but away from the noisy center. Mary Gibbons tour of Newgrange was all it was said to be - a great introduction to Irish History. Kilmainham Jail was powerful.
Cashel - stayed at Legend's Guesthouse. Very gourmet dinner and you can't beat the view, they are at the foot of the Rock of Cashel. Loved walking to Hore Abbey (behind the Rock) at twilight.
Kinsale - this was our Farmhouse B & B experience. Maria at Raheen House is lovely - it is 10 minutes from Kinsale. Thanks to all who recommended Fishy Fishy Cafe, only open for lunch. It was fabulous. Stayed at Shelburne Lodge for only 1 night in Kenmare. Ate at their restaurant in town - Packies. Again the food was unbelievable. Wish we had a 2nd night in Kenmare.
Next up Dingle - stayed 3 nights and again, could have stayed more. Heaton's Guesthouse really does provide the warmest welcome. Nuala, Cameron and David made us feel like family, our rooms were huge and breakfast really was the best. Ate at two restaurants that I got from this board - Out of the Blue (seafood only) and Midi (pizza & other mediterranean food) as well as the Charthouse (upscale gourmet). There is a food revolution going on in Ireland and we had truly incredible meals. Great shopping here.
Connemara - time for a castle splurge at Ballynahinch. Hiked Mamean (where St. Patrick banished the snakes). Great scenery, nice art gallery in Roundstone.
Burren - for a really unique experience stay with Jim & Bernadette in their country home in Corofin. Ask Jim to point the way to the hike near Newquay. Eat at Linannes Lobster Bar in Newquay.
Finally, Drink Guinness!!!! I do not like it here at home and only meant to have one glass to say I had done so. Ended up drinking it everyday - as they say "Guinness for Strength".
Karen <email>
Atlanta, GA USA Fri 08/20/2004
Grove House &Courtyard Cottages Skibbereen
Grove house and courtyard cottages:
Date: Aug 16, 2004
we stayed at Grove house and courtyard cottages in Skibbereen west cork on the 3- 6 august 04.
It was everything it said in the literature and more.
The welcome from Anna and Peter Warburton was really wonderful.
The food was excellent, really first class.
We had breakfast and a 3 course meal every day.A different menu every night.
All of the meals were out of this world.
We were really sorry to leave at the end of our 3 day stay.
I can only praise Anna and Peter once again for their superb hospitality.
If your thinking of staying in the west cork area Grove house is a must. A real gem!!!!!!!
Fran & Mike Hourihane <email>
pontypool, torfaen wales U k Mon 08/16/2004
Student's version: Dublin, Cork, Galway
I was just in Ireland last week, so here are my tips, from a student's perspective and for other students and people in their 20s.
Dublin: Lots to do and see. Not to be missed. Try to get accomodations near Trinity College - this is the student area. I did both the City Tour and the Wicklow tour with the Grayline bus company. Got very helpful, friendly staff with a great sense of humor who were more than willing to point out what there was to see and do.
Hostel-wise, Avalon House was a great deal with really helpful staff. Christchurch House was the complete reverse, and also pretty out of the way.
Cork: Absolutely gorgeous city about the size of Berkeley, CA, with a great atmosphere in general and extraordinarily friendly people. Also not to be missed. Sheila's Budget Accomodation Hostel is a fabulous deal for the 14 Euro you pay per night. Also near St. Patrick's Street and a whole bunch of pubs.
Galway: Wait until about Spring 2005. Most of the attractions in Eyre Square are part of an area that's being torn up by construction right now. Hostels are few and far between, so book early. The only other real attraction besides Eyre Square is the Aran Islands.
Jessica <email>
Walnut Creek, CA USA Sat 08/14/2004
Two Weeks in Ireland, July/August
We used Rick's and Fodors during our two weeks in Ireland July 21-Aug 3. Here are some thoughts:
Rented car from Enterprise at Dublin Airport. Car pick up is a ways north of the airport, in Swords. Enterprise had no maps at the time. However, rates turned out to be wonderful, despite insurance charge tacked on with no notice. If you have a platinum Mastercard you can indeed get CDW insurance, automatically, for no charge, by using the card. However, you still need to purchase liability insurance.
First night, stayed in Trim, at Highfield House b/c of Rick's recommendation. It's great. Trim Castle, Newgrange, Knowth, Hill of Tara, all great, plus, definitely purchase the Heritage Card. Dinner at Franzini O'Brien's, also great.
2d-4th nights at Clareview House in Kinvara. Rick, add this to your book! It is simply great, the best B & B we stayed at. Dinner at Keogh's in Kinvara, also wonderful. Lots of discussion on the web about castle dinners: Bunratty, Dunguaire, or Knappogue. We picked Knappogue. My traveling companions liked it better than I did. They would do it again. I wouldn't--seemed like cheesy vaudeville to me. I like more history.
Dingle: we stayed at Emlagh Lodge, not House, not in your book but should be, it's great. Concert at church is great. Out of the Blue is a new restaurant, it's wonderful. Archaeological tour also wonderful. My companions tooks the eco-tour and were disappointed because the guide used no mike and was mostly inaudible.
Kinsale: we stayed at Landfall House, not in your book but also very good. (We would start with B & Bs in your book, but many of them were full months in advance, and also many of them did not have triple rooms, which we needed.) Your directions to the ferry to Cobh are wrong, you need to change them, the Queenstown Story is wonderful. Just outside of Cobh on the way up to Cork is a botanical garden and zoo, not in your book but a beautiful place to stop and picnic (I forget the name, sorry).
Cashel: Gort na Cloc is a great B & B north of town. A farm, so very peaceful.
Dublin: we returned our car as soon as we got there thanks to your advice, which was definitely the right thing to do. Stayed at the Harcourt Hotel, need earplugs because of incredibly noisy nightclub outside which apparently stays open all night. Viking Splash Tour is wonderful, highly recommend it, but the vikings are cagey and hard to find. The location of one departure point has changed. Best to call them and make a reservation. They sell out fast.
Driving: Just repeat this mantra to yourself: the driver needs to be at the middle of the road. Also, don't be afraid to drive slowly, especially around blind corners in the country.
Thanks, Rick! Our trip would not have been nearly so wonderful had we not used your book.
Lynn Foster <email>
Little Rock, AR USA Fri 08/13/2004
My Ireland Advice
Spent 16 days in Ireland from late June-July. Drove the ring of the island, you should probably count on covering 30-40 miles/hour. And be prepared for frequently heading in the wrong direction due to the poor signage.
My quad band GSM phone (v600) worked great. I unlocked it over here and picked up a Vodafone SIM card for 30euros, it had 15euros of usage. Very nice for calling ahead to tell the innkeeper you'll be late/lost or just for your peace of mind.
The bad:
Cashel - go to see the Rock then get out of town. The lodgings suggested by Rick (probably the best available) aren't very good, and the local Garda allow their young men to hang around and cause trouble. I was harrassed in doing some photography around the town, but being in shape just jogged away. This town is only huggable if you generally hug with your brass knuckles on.
Derry - Merchants House/Saddlers House, nice lodging; but in a very rundown area of town and dishonest owner (she overcharged us). The City Museum is closed for remodeling. My advice would be to drive-in, see the murals and drive on.
The good:
Ring of Skellig - if you have a car do this. Very small roads but the view is worth it.
Greenmount House - GREAT lodging and breakfast, definitely stay there again.
Petra House - very friendly, owner came out to find us and guide us in when we were a little lost
Connemara - beautiful countryside, I liked it better than the Ring's.
Burren - this area has to be seen to believe it. I figure Steven King would love this area, very bizarre.
Powerscourt - gorgeous, allow plenty of time to wander. You could do the circuit in the 30 min that Rick suggests, but that is without stopping in the various gardens to enjoy very much.
People - very friendly, at one point had some car trouble and had 38 people stop to check on us in 1.5 hours.
Enjoy your trip!
David
Allen, TX USA Mon 08/09/2004
Festivals Ireland 2004
If you like Irish music plan to attend the Johnny Keenan Banjo Festival. It is Sept 24-26 in Longford Ireland. All styles of Irish and Traditional Music will be played. Not to be missed
Roger johns <email>
Broomfield, CO USA Fri 08/06/2004
Muckross Riding Stables B&B, Muckross, Killarney
I would not recommend Muckross Riding Stables. We made a reservation months in advance and
reconfirmed it a week before our
arrival. When we arrived, we found
that our rooms had be given away.
She had set up another B&B for us. When we arrived at the new place, the owner mentioned that Maureen is always having some kind of
trouble with reservations and she is always bailing her out. I would not recommend this B&B to anyone.
Kathy <email>
Santa Rosa, CA USA Mon 08/02/2004
SW Ireland: B&B's, etc.
Arrived in Shannon from Norway late in the evening, so we stayed at Oakwood Arms, maybe two miles from the airport. Worked well. Excellent b'fast.
Three days in Clifden staying at Mallmore House, just outside of town. Wonderful! Family run, great b'fasts, we had a beautiful room (huge - like a suite) bay window overlooking the entrance to the harbor. Driving around the area (Connemarra and Sky Road) is fascinating.
In Dingle we splurged at the Greenmount. Also had a suite here, and we were so happy we did, as one rainy day was spent mostly in our comfy quarters. Loved it. Took in the concert at the church - excellent. Lots of locals as well as lucky tourists. Best dinner was at 4xexons (pronounced "4 seasons"), run by a young transplanted Aussie. Wonderful. On Main St, up a flight of stairs.
Used Rick's precise guide to drive the peninsula -. Great! I'd add a bit more in Rick's guide book about the Kavanaugh Famine House west of town. Skip the fort across the road and visit this place. The family has owned the property for 7 generations, and has done a good job in presenting it to the public. 3 Euros.
Some words about driving: You'll drive with more comfort with total CWI. The narrow roads (including some "main arteries") are rough and lined with paint-gouging hedgerows. After our first experience, I got out and examined the left side of the car - it looked as if it had been "keyed" several times front to back! Luckily, we found a colored polish at a petrol station with which we were able to buff out the scratches so we passed the close inspection at Europcar.
In Kinsale we stayed at the funky Presbytery. Great b'fast and location. Nice dinner across the street at Crackpot Ceramic. Took Don Herlihy's interesting walk, leaving from the visitors' center at 11:00.
Heading to Dublin, we stayed two nights at Dunromin B&B (karenbrown.com/ireland/dunromin/html) in Kilkenny. Super b'fast, extremely helpful and friendly owners. This is where we borrowed some old towels to buff out the scratches. 60 euros cash per night.
For our last 4 nights, Harding Hotel was fine - across the street from Christchurch. Excellent brew-pub: Porter House, on Parliament near the river, just two blocks from the hotel. Great beers and ales, good food.
A few tips: We got rid of the rental car as soon as we arrived in Dublin - on a Sunday - little traffic.
Spend the euros for full CDW and/or remember the polish.
Three nights makes for relaxing stays in popular areas.
Choose different airports to fly in to and out from i.e. Shannon/Dublin.
Sorry so verbose, but this was a special two weeks!
Jack <email>
Pinole, CA USA Thu 07/29/2004
Mizen Head and Fastnet Rock
We just returned from 10 days in Ireland using Rick's book quite extensively.
We discovered a fabulous site however in West Cork that Rick fails to mention and we found it well worth the day trip to get there from Kinsale. It is "Mizen Head" - Ireland's most southwesternly point and "Fastnet Rock" - Ireland's lighthouse built into the side of a rock 8 miles offshore of Mizen Head. The day we went was very sunny and clear and we could see forever. However, just the cliffs and the coves and the Mizen Head Lighthouse Tour on a "regular Ireland summer day" would be well worth your while. The locals call it the "Grand Canyon of Ireland".
We stayed in Bridgeview Guesthouse in Kilbrittain - doing one day to Mizen Head and one day to Kinsale. Marion's hospitality on her dairy farm also made it worth the trip!!
Sue Payne <email>
Bel Air, MD USA Sat 07/24/2004
Ireland Honeymoon
Recently returned from Scotland and Ireland following Rick's guides. Wonderful! In Dun Laoghaire we ran into some unexpected changes from the book. The DART train from Dublin was not running on the weekends due to construction, which meant we had to take the hour long bus ride back and forth. The rail construction is supposed to be finished the end of July, but our B&B host pointed out it was originally supposed to be finished in May. Also, the launderette there has gone out of business with no alternatives nearby that we could find. REst of the trip was marvelous. We had an early morning flight from Shannon to London and spent our last 2 nights at the Beechgrove Farmhouse 10 minutes from the airport. Mrs Conheady went the extra bit leaving breakfast out for our 5:30 am departure.
Neil and Debby Krey <email>
Hurst, TX USA Thu 07/22/2004
Cill Bhreac House, Dingle
Just returned from a two-week vacation to Ireland with my wife. Dingle was definitely our favourite stop off. We followed Rick's guidebook throughout our travels and found it most helpful. One question though Rick - why isn't Dingle's Cill Bhreac House included in your book? Every night we stayed in B&B's that Rick recommended and they were all beautiful. However, in Dingle we decided to stay at Cill Bhreac House having read so many great reviews about it on this message board and having seen the lovely pictures of the house on their web site. Although not in the book, Cill Bhreac House was definitely the best B&B we stayed in while in Ireland. With its lovely views of Dingle Bay, it's extensive breakfast menu and the amazing hospitality that Angela and the rest of her family displayed they really ensured we had a most enjoyable stay.
Andrew Catherwood <email>
Boston, MA USA Thu 07/22/2004
Ireland/No.Ireland tour
We spent a day in Ireland, in June and used Neil Hogan of Roadrunners Kinsale Sightseeing Bus Tours info@westcorktours.com for a full day trip to Kinsale, Charles Fort, Blarney castle and the beautiful grounds here. He was an excellent guide and I highly recommend his tour.He gave us so much information about Ireland and drove us along many of the small roads in such beautiful areas. I think it is a shame to miss the grounds at Blarney Castle. They are so beautiful and Neil did a delightful tour here explaining the fables, and showing us the Witches kitchen, wishing steps etc. I'm not sure if Charles Fort is usually included in his day tour which leaves from Cork, but we hired his services and coach for the full day for our group and he was happy to add a stop at the fort. This also is not to be missed.
In Northern Ireland we hired mini-coach tours (www.minicoachni.co.uk)for a full day trip along the Antrim coast to the Giants Causeway, Dunlace Castle, Old Bushmills Distillery, and the Carrick a rede rope bridge. Again, this tour was just excellent and the beauty in this area is amazing. We stopped in a tiny town for a bathroom break and some children were playing on some outdoor toys. When they saw us they exclaimed "Are you Tourists??" It was like they had heard of tourists before but had never met any... It was so cute.
Lorrie
Lorrie <email>
Cincinnati, Ohio USA Tue 07/13/2004
Carrigeen Castle
We recently stayed (June 2004) at Carrigeen Castle in Cahir, County Tipperary, Ireland. It was a nightmare. We stayed in small bed and breakfast places all over Europe, sometimes for a week at a time, in Rome, Vernazza, Venice, Munich, Paris, London, Dublin, Doolin, Dingle, to name just a few. This was the worst experience of our trip. The owner, Peig Butler, was bizarre from the beginning, and only got worse as the stay went on. The final charge was not as agreed upon, even the full Irish breakfast was terrible. It was an awful experience, and not worth it to stay in a place that isn't a castle, rather an old gaol. I strongly recommend you skip Carrigeen "Castle".
John Evers <email>
Atlanta, GA USA Mon 07/12/2004
Ken Harper, Taxi Driver Belfast
Just returned from a brief stopover in Belfast, Northern Ireland. Used a referral from the Ireland Guide and hired taxi driver and guide Ken Harper. His 1 1/2 tour is outstanding and the whole experience is one of our most poignant memories.
Lorelei Redding <email>
Reno, NV USA Fri 07/09/2004
Great B&B Near Kinsale
We vacationed in Ireland from 5/16 to 5/26 using Rick's book as our guide. After using several guides to plan the trip, it was the only one we thought it would be worthwhile to pack. We feel like we soaked up Ireland while a avoiding some of the overly touristy stops (Blarney Castle). We loved the Dingle Penninsula, Powerscourt Castle, the Rock of Cashel and just taking our time along the way.
We must mention a B&B we came across by accident. It is right outside of Kinsale on Sandy Cove. The name is Waylunga and the owner is Mrs Myrtle Lewis. The house is situated on a hill that looks over fields that slope down to a secluded cove. She has an absolutely beautiful garden and breakdfast includes her homemade currant jam. Our hostess was the epitome of a B&B owner - helpful and interested in our plans for the day. Don't miss this if you are in the Kinsale area.
April & Bill <email>
Fishers, IN USA Sun 06/27/2004
Driving Tip Update
Sorry, that I forgot to mention that I was speaking of the steering wheel always being towards the center of the lanes where they meet.
Gretchen <email>
L.A., CA USA Fri 06/25/2004
Driving Tip
When I moved to Dublin and worked as a nanny I was forced to adapt quickly to driving on the "wrong" side of the road in a crazy city! One word of advice I was given as I learned to drive a manual in this environment was that the wheel is always in the middle of the road. I found this to be helful, and true advice. Not only did it help me to adapt back to driving in the states, but it got me through months of driving in both rural and urban, if you can call it that, Ireland!
Gretchen <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA Fri 06/25/2004
Ireland Vacation
I recently returned from a 2 week vacation in Ireland. May 27 through June 11. We used the 2003 version of Rick Steves' Ireland book, so some of the information in his book regarding prices had increased since that issue. We use his books mainly for what to see and do, and do not always use his places to stay. The book was very helpful in the various regions that we were in, such as Dublin, the Wicklow Mountains, Kilkenny, Cashel, Dingle, The Burren, Connemara, and the northern coast. Among others, his mile by mile tour of the Dingle Peninsula, and tour of Glendalough, were excellent.
In Portrush, we did stay in one of Rick's suggested B&B's, since there were very few listings in the Ireland B&B book for Northern Ireland. We stayed at the Belvedere Town House, and although the room was small, the B&B was in a quiet area overlooking the park and bay and was not too great a walk to the main part of town. This is one location where we met a couple that were also using Rick Steves book.
In Dublin we had dinner at one of Rick's suggestions, the Gallagher's Boxty House in the Temple Bar area, and found it to be very good. Like in most places we had dinner in Ireland, the portions were large, and well presented.
Although distances between towns and areas in Ireland seem short, it takes much longer to travel distances than in the USA or Canada since the roads are mostly narrow, winding, and lined with hedge rows. However, this is what makes Ireland so scenic. Do not try to do it all and plan to only do no more than about 150 miles a day. I believe that the times for driving that are given in Rick's book are on the low side, unless you plan to take the shortest route, go as fast as you can, and do not make any stops.
Gas and Diesel prices are between 2 and 3 times that in the USA or Canada. Everything in Ireland is very expensive. Ireland is now said to be the most expensive country in Europe, and I agree.
We have used Rick's books for the past 12 years or so, and have found them to be just what we need.
Rick Herbert <email>
Fort Erie, Ontario Canada Tue 06/22/2004
Wicklow Way WOW
Wicklow Way Lodge is a must stop for anyone who loves glorious sunrises and sunsets overlooking lush mountains. Marilyn and Shay and their charming son Tony were incredible hosts. We arrived late in the evening, tired and hugry. Our bags were stowed in our rooms and we were quickly directed to a wonderful Inn down the road for a tasty dinner. The rooms were beautiful, right out of a decorating magazine. The architecture of the house emphasizes the incredible views of the Wicklow Mountains....much like a cabin in the Rockies. The bed and shower were first class! I cannot say enough about our stay at this terrific B and B. For entertainment...you can watch the Wicklow Sheep Dogs at work, or head down the road to catch a soccer match or some music at 2 of the towns popular restaurants. If you have the good fortune to make this a stop, be sure to try Marilyn's outstanding oatmeal. This is could be a romantic get away, or a fun family stop before hiking The Way. Also...take the 4 mile trek to Lough Tay.........beautiful!
Stacey Walsh <email>
Cincinnati, OH USA Mon 06/21/2004
Mary Gibbons tour of Tara and Newgrange
Marry Gibbon's tour of Newgrange and the Hill of Tara was excellent, but I did not appreciate how I was treated as a customer. I called 2 days ahead to book myself and my sister on the tour. The woman on the phone confirmed the 35 euro price shown in Rick's book and the 6 euro discount for showing his book. When we arrived, three things happened. First, they didn't have my name. Second, they charged us 40 euro each. Third, they said they no longer give the discount for the Rick Steves book. I almost felt like telling them to jam it, but did not. It was still worth 40 euro but they have a lot to learn about treating customers.
Edward <email>
Tallahassee, FL USA Sun 06/20/2004
dublin to dingle
The distances and driving times in the 2003 Ireland book were unrealistically short given traffic, road conditions and road construction on N7 & N21. Book said 4 1/4 hrs. We booked into a B&B in Dingle for three nights thinking we could leave in the morning to make an early afternoon flight out of Dublin. The nearly 7 hr drive from Dublin to Dingle convinced us we had to cut our stay short by 1 night and stay closer to Dublin. We were charged at Kelliher's Ballyegan B&B for the night we didn't stay. Be aware if you change plans expect to be stuck. Kelliher's had small rooms but was clean. Luckily, for almost the same price we found a gorgeous
B&B 90 minutes outside of Dublin on N7 in Borris-in-Ossory, Ballaghmore House B&B, with large rooms well-appointed and a much better breakfast. A worthy destination -- not just a way point.
Wynne <email>
USA Thu 06/17/2004
Kenmare
Has anyone stayed at the Lansdowne Hotel in Kenmare? Please provide positive or negative experiences.
Maureen Broms <email>
Wollaston, MA USA Wed 06/16/2004
Ireland stuff, June 2004
Kilkenny - Rothe house not worth the time.
Kensale - O'Donovan's B&B was a delight. Tap Tavern tops for fun. The Ghost Walking tour was very entertaining. Don Hirley's tour was outstanding. Desmond "Castle" was a waste of time. Charles Fort is a must see.
Kilarney - Mucross House was mediocre, but the gardens were much more interesting.
Dingle - Captain's House B&B outstanding. The archaeological tour of the Dingle area overlaps a good deal with the tour described in detail in Rick's Ireland guide. Overall, the archaeology tour was a disappointment and not worth the time; you don't learn anything you couldn't get from a book. Aquarium was pretty good. The drive around the penni