Rick Steves' Paris: More Feedback
If you've traveled with this guidebook, please help us improve it for future travelers. How can it be more helpful and accurate? Did any recommended hotels, eateries, or sights disappoint you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
Archived postings: 2004
Paris in May
We were in Paris for 15 days in May. Stayed at the Grand Leveque. The hotel and Rue Cler were excellent. Two of the recommended restaurants were subpar. La Varangue's run-down restaurant served terrible food that you could get in any American small town. The service was provided by two young girls who stopped to eat themselves in the midst of dinner. The owner served us burnt cheese! No French in the place, for good reason! The other disappointment was Chez Agnes. We waited 3 hours for mediocre food and waited in vain for our coffee, which never came. Agnes's dog rifled my wife's purse. Again, no French people in the place, for good reason. Rick should be sentenced to eat for a week in these places.
JP
Olympia, WA USA Mon 05/30/2005
Paris, May 2005
Paris 2005 Guidebook was just fantastic! Rick, you just cracked us up while we were doing the Orsay and Louvre tours with guidebook in hand! A few notes;
We stayed at Hotel Leveque, just wonderful, and Rue Cler was exactly what we hoped it would be. Of the recommended restaurants, Sancerre was a little disappointing, but the Petit Troquet and La Varangue were wonderful-La Varangue was a little "hectic" but with all the "Ricknics" that we ran across we had nothing but great food and conversations, allowing our host to take care of the entire dining room. That was a lot of fun!
One scam note- in Montmarte, we stopped in for an afternoon sip of vin. While sitting at the bar, a local artist began chatting up my wife. 5 minutes later, he told her to "lift up her chin"- and 10 minutes after that he was pimping me for 40 euros (1/2 price from his normal charge of 80 euros) for a sketch of my wife. I could not figure out a way out of that purchase, without either insulting the artist or my wife! Be careful, and the next time I hear someone asking my wife to "pose", I'll pull out my digital camera, snap that shot, show it to him, and say....no, merci, I already have that picture!
TonyC <email>
denver, co USA Fri 05/27/2005
Paris Trip - May 2005
Just a note of thanks to Rick and his staff. My wife and I took our first trip to Paris and based our whole stay on your Paris guidebook. We had a fantastic trip.
We highly recommend the Rue Cler area as a place to stay. The Hotel Leveque was a great pick. Friendly staff, clean rooms, great rates, great street.It felt like a French block party every time we walked out of our hotel.
The self-guided tours of the Louvre, Orsay Mueseums, & Historic Paris walk were very fun and informative.
Also, the "rude french people" must of all have been on vacation that week because we did not meet one.
Our trip was a success in large part b/c of your tips. It is the best $16 you can spend before a trip. We would not travel to Europe w/ out your guidebook.
Thanks,
Joe Ciccarone <email>
Ambler, Pa USA Tue 05/24/2005
email address malfunction
The email address for Denis at Hotel Medecis doesn't work. This hotel is also listed in France and Best of Europe 2005.
Tim Jones <email>
Palo Alto, CA USA Thu 05/19/2005
Hotel Eber Mars
My husband and I stayed at the Hotel Eber Mars while in Paris for a couple of days. The room was very comfortable, nice, and quite spacious (compared to our room in London) despite being their "small" double. We also had a nice view of the Eiffel Tower if we stuck our head out the window! The hotel staff was helpful. I highly recommend the Hotel Eber Mars.
Doris <email>
San Antonio, TX USA Wed 05/18/2005
Paris hotels
First, as everyone knows Rick Steves does do his homework and all the places he suggests to go and hotels to stay in are just as he says. However, because Rick is so well known, just about everyone wants to stay where he suggests.My wife and I have discovered a trick. Take Rick's suggestions and check on the hotels, they're almost always booked but don't become discouraged, there is almost always a hotel or two nearby he hasn't named that are the same quality. We've been able to use this little trick all over Europe and it has never failed us.
Kurt Friedemann <email>
Gelnhausen, He GE Mon 05/16/2005
Loire Valley Day Trip from paris
I used Acco-Dispo Tours for a minivan tour of several Chateuax in the Loire Valley as recommended by Rick Steves. They run of both Amboise and Tours. It worked great as day trip out of Paris. We took TGV from Paris to tours (56 minutes) and then met the van at the Tourist Office right across the street from the station. Great find, Rick!http://www.accodispo-tours.com/english/index-excursions.html
Matt <email>
Madison, wi USA Sat 05/14/2005
i agree, the admission fee is well worth it at the luxumburg gardens kids area. the reason i mention it, is that rick steves doesn't. for someone who is planning to go to the park it is nice to know. perhaps its is more valuable as a 90 minute break than a 30 minute break once you know there is afee. also the kids park closes at 7pm. another piece of good information for parents.
USA Thu 05/12/2005
Luxembourg Garden's Playground
The children's playground at the Luxembourg Gardens is FANTASTIC for kids. My son loved it. He met and played with many children from all over the US and Europe. Parents do not have to go in, thus saving that fee, if your kids are old enough to play without you standing next to them. Parents can sit in a comfortable chair just on the other side of the low fence and you can see everything very well. It was one of our most favorite things to do in Paris. My son would play, and I could sit, relax, read, write post-cards or just enjoy people-watching. The entrance fee for children is well worth it.
Susan
Sausalito, Ca USA Wed 05/11/2005
ok so here we are in paris. we've used rick's suggestions in other parts of europe and some great results and some only so-so. we are a family of five so the choices are more limited than for a couple or small family. hotel bourdonnais has been good. location great, noise s0-so, beds hard. the restaurnt is no more. no more michelin 1 star rated restaurant. very disappointing. as we are a family with medium age children we were hoping to have a great meal within shouting distance. dont know why it closed, the front desk was uncommunitive about it. rue cler is a great take out street, but only for a few days(we are here for 9 days), then it gets repetative. luxumberg gardens does have a great kids play area, but there is a small charge of 2.50 euros per child and a charge of 1.50 per adult. my kids had a great 3 hours there. no rental toy sailboats in may. so far the orsay has been the most interesting museum for the kids and for us. the louvre is so huge and confusing that it is less user friendly. hope this helps any other families that are coming to paris. everyone has been very kind to us, including bus drivers, cabbies, metro attendants, service people. normandy was great as well but not the Caen memorial museum. politics were too evident at the museum. and i guess they weren't quite my politics.
USA Tue 05/10/2005
Neal's post
Neal, you got a last minute deal, which is not comparing apples with apples. Of course, unsold rooms are often sold MUCH more cheaply. Rick Steves recommends rooms at prices that are available to anyone at anytime. Obviously, a four star hotel is going to be far superior to a lesser priced 2 star. However, I find it refreshing to find a guide book that doesn't look down upon those of us who can't afford to spend hundreds of dollars a night to stay in luxury surroundings. On our first trip to Paris, we stayed in a 3 star. The next time, a 2 star. Each time we looked around and thought that while the room was nice, it had amenities that we didn't need or use. On the third trip that very same year, we stayed in a 1 star hotel. We had fallen in love with Paris so much that we just wanted to be there as much as we could. We saw the same Notre Dame, Eiffel Tower, Arc d'Triomphe, etc., staying in a 1 star hotel as the 3 star. Actually, the 1 star Tiquetonne had more Parisian charm than the other two hotels. I'm so glad that most people on the graffiti wall are not hotel snobs. I enjoy reading posts from people who, like me, can enjoy Europe on limited budgets.
TM
OR USA Thu 05/05/2005
Hotel Ares-Thumbs Down - Hotel Alexander Thumbs up!
My wife and I just got back from 14 days in Europe and we took Ricks Advice about accomodations in Paris and selected Hotel Ares for our 4 nights in Paris. Sadly we were deeply disappointed with the accomodations. The hotel is located of a back street, more like a glorified alley way. The hotel lobby looked a little worn and had an odd smell to it. Our room was adequately sized but the furniture was VERY worn was not in very good repair and with a bed spring from the victorian era, not good after 12 hours of doing Paris. Dont go by the website pictures-they bear no resemblance to the actual room. especially the bathroom which is circa 1930, without the charm. Also, This place is not air conditioned which was noticeble even in pleasaent weather.
Any way we stayed one night then I high-tailed it to the nearet internet cafe and hit travelocity and got a great last minute deal at Hotel Alexander on Rue Victor Hugo, located between Arc de Triumph and the Eiffel Tower. It was only 14 more Euros a night but WOW what a difference. The Hotel Alexander is a true four star in an upscale Parisian neighborhood. We got a great air conditioned room with beatiful artwork, carpets, and amenities. We also had a large marble bathroom with all modern conveniences. Truly another ballpark for just a few more Euros.
Note about my hotel views:
Though I like Rick Steves guide books I dont usually do not agree with his views on hotels. He views hotels as part of the "experience of Europe". I view the hotel as a "refuge from Europe". After long days of sightseeing and taking in all Europe has to offer I want accomodations that are modern, clean, and give me the confidence of a good nights sleep. Charm, quaintness, and "soul" are completely secondary. Secondly his hotels are usually not the best value money wise. I prefer to use the feedback boards here and at Trip Advisor, lonely planet, and other sites then I shop, shop, shop the best deals on the internet. It hasnt failed me yet. And No, I'm not an ugly American. I travel quite a bit in Europe and I speak french pretty well and some Italian.
Neal <email>
DuPont, WA USA Thu 05/05/2005
Paris trip with grandson
ParisI took my 18 year old grandson to Paris for 5 days then on to England for a total of 2 weeks this past March. I always use Rick's books and advice from this board before going to Paris (my 4th trip). Rick's hotel and restaurant suggestions have always been excellent for me. I took my oldest grandson two years ago. They both had a wonderful time, we never had a bit of trouble, they even went out in the evenings for a couple of hours on their own. Each trip was slightly different as I tailored it to their likes and personalities. We were very careful in all the areas of town known for pick pockets but we were also there when it was very cold and both of us had long raincoats on every day with money belts inside our clothing. I have two more grandchildren to bring to Paris and can't wait to share with them this beautiful city.
Bonnie
San Diego, CA USA Tue 05/03/2005
Taxi from CDG to Paris
Ricks Paris bood said that the taxis take only 3 people from CDG airport to Paris. We found that it was easy to get a taxi van to take 4 people with luggage and that the price was the same as a regular taxi (+/- 50 euro to central Paris).
Jim <email>
ca USA Fri 04/29/2005
Paris Metro line 13
Paris Metro Line 13 seems to be the target of pickpockets this year. It's the only one where I heard continual announcements to watch your wallet or purse. I got nailed twice in a week by pickpockets on that line....luckily, I caught them both times, even tho there was nothing valuable to grab.
Norm <email>
Ottawa, Canada Fri 04/29/2005
Paris
On the 4th February this year my wife and I took a short break in Paris. We flew early morning from Birmingham to Charles de Gaul airport. We decided that we would take the train to Gare du Nord and then use the Metro service to get to our hotel in the centre close to the Eiffel Tower. We were fully aware that pick pockets operated around the Gare du Nord station, as we had been told this by friends, so we were very alert and we kept our pockets tightly zipped.
Whilst looking at the Metro Map at Gard du Nord, debating how best to get to our hotel and also being totally confused as to where to buy the tickets, a well dressed and well spoken French man approached us and offered to help. He asked where we were heading and said he was going partly that way and to follow him because some of the underground lines were closed for maintenance works. He said that the ticket office was on a platform at the next stop, where we could purchase a ticket to go anywhere on the metro for the duration of our week's holiday. He led us up to a platform and said that the office was closed but that there was a ticket machine at the foot of the platform stairs. I left my wife on the platform with the luggage and followed him to the machine. We hurried down the stairs as the next train was due within minutes. He said that the machine would not accept my credit card and that he would have to use his card and that I could pay him back in cash. I thought this was extremely helpful although I was a little suspicious, however I watched closely and he operated the machine and it displayed 165 Euros all of which appeared very legitimate. He withdrew two tickets from the machine and as we were walking back up the stairs I withdrew my wallet and paid him. He stayed with us to the next station where we said goodbye and thanked him for his help.
We arrived at our hotel and then after unpacking decided to go out sight seeing only to find that the tickets would not operate the barriers. Slightly embarrassed we went to the ticket office to complain only to be told that we had been victims of a scam, none of the underground lines were closed and that a one way ticket was only worth a couple of Euros. We were told to always purchase tickets from the official station offices (none of which are located on platforms).
Moral of the story is "if you don't know them don't trust them".
Paul
Great Britain, Fri 04/29/2005
Be Alert in the Montmartre Area
You do have to be careful in the Montmartre area, and all over I suppose, just like anywhere. I adore Paris, grew up there, go back often. My son and I were in the very touristy little train that takes you all around Montmartre, we sat at the very back so we could videotape the ride. I was holding our camera and taping the whole time, when all of a sudden, a 15 year old boy started to run alongside the train and in an instant grabbed our video camera with all his strength and tried to yank it out of my hand. Luckily, I had put my hand through the strap first and then held the camera, so he was not able to get it. If I hadn't done that, which I usually didn't, he would have gotten our video camera and the video tape inside with hours and hours of our trip recorded. We learned a huge lesson that day. So be careful!
Susan
Sausalito, CA USA Mon 04/25/2005
Montmartre
Don't be concerned about Montmartre, just watch your wallet. Our hotel, two blocks from Moulin Rouge, was not our first, second, etc pick, but it worked fine. The first day we walked up to Montmartre, and thought we had to pass Pigalle, but bypassed it after that. Sacre Coeur is maginificent. We had dinner twice, and walked home at night - bypassing Pigalle, and had no problems. One wonderful cafe was L'Ete en Pente Douce, mentioned in Steve's book, but hard for us to find. At the top, in front of Sacre Coeur, walk all the way to the right, and down stairs, and you will run right into it. It is a treasure. Good food at a reasonable price, and atmosphere that is wonderful. You will not be dissapointed.
L. Wahlstrom <email>
Bellevue, , WA USA Fri 04/22/2005
Paris metro stations
It's been a couple of years since I went to Europe but I am going again next year and plan to take my Rick Steve's Paris book with me...again. One thing that isn't mentioned, and I found out the hard way, was that it is MUCH easier to backpack Paris than to use a suitcase, especially if you don't use a car or cab. I took the Metro everywhere and there are no ramps or escalators. It's all steps and alot of them! Even a rolling suitcase became a burden after changing trains a couple of times. If you're not planning on renting a car or taking a taxi, invest in a good, comfie backpack and pack light!! Oh, and perforated pages would be awesome so we can tear out the pages we want to take with us and put them in a little notebook...or make the book spiral bound. Love, love, LOVE the books and shows! Keep up the great work!!
Kristen <email>
San Jose, CA USA Wed 04/20/2005
Bus #69 Tour
I sat around for 20 minutes waiting for the bus on a Sunday Afternoon in Paris. I couldn't read the bus schedule, so an old french lady helped us out. We found out that Bus #69 does not run on Sundays. I don't remember reading that anywhere in Rick's book.
USA Fri 04/15/2005
Cluny Museum
On our last trip to Paris, we wanted to visit some places we had not been to before. We went to the Arene Lutece (Roman amphitheatre)and then walked thru the Latin Quarter to the Pantheon, had a picnic lunch in the Jardin du Luxembourg, and continued our walk up Ave St. Michel to the Cluny Museum. We liked the Cluny - it has medieval art in a medieval building that is built on top of a Roman bath site. The tapestries are beautiful - something different to see.
kbrennan <email>
omaha, ne USA Mon 04/04/2005
Continental's phone number changed
Found one tiny problem in the guide book: the Paris number listed towards the end of the book for Continental Airlines has changed. Unfortunately I didn't have a pen so I missed the new number.
Chris Lott <email>
Morristown, NJ USA Mon 04/04/2005
Rick's Paris Book - A+
My niece and I stayed in the Marais 3/16 - 3/23, just a 10 minute walk to Notre Dame and The Louvre. We did all the walks and visited most of museums listed in Rick's Paris book. The only disappointment was the Cluny museum - don't bother. A couple Rick recommended restaurants in the Marais area have closed. The museum pass was definitely a must. Thanks to Rick and the backdoor team for a fine book!
Elizabeth <email>
Troutdale, OR USA Sun 04/03/2005
Rick made Paris easier!
I went on a tour with some of my students and we found Rick's book full of great ideas to fill our free time. We loved the Musee Rodin and the Musee d'Orsay. Buy a carnet of Metro tickets. It is truly a great deal--cheaper than London's Underground. I am ready to go back to Paris in a few years to see the Marmatton (Monet) and the L'Orangerie, which has been closed for several years now while they work on the building. L'Orangerie is home to Monet's Water Lilies. I've been to Giverny before this trip and it is well worth the time and money, especially if you love Monet. We stayed on the river at Novotel Eiffel Tower. It was a great hotel with a nice breakfast and much of the staff speaks English. We were a 15 minute walk from the Eiffel Tower and the Seine boat rides. Monmartre was a little weird--best way to describe it. Be very careful at night. It can be fun but it can also be....well, dodgy to borrow a British term. You can go during the day when it's less strange. Take the funicular up if you've been walking all day--your tired legs will appreciate it and you can walk down when you're through exploring. It only cost one Metro ticket.
Julie <email>
Euless, TX USA Fri 04/01/2005
Great book helped a lot!
Back from my very first, long awaited, trip to Paris! Thanks to Rick Steves' Paris, I knew what to see and how to get there (although I'll admit to getting lost several times having a horrible sense of direction, but wow - what a place to get lost in!) The book helped me to plan what to see - I found the what's closed what days especially helpful since we had a Thursday - Wednesday stay.
I'm so glad we went to see the Cluny Museum (the tapestries are unbelievable in person) & Jacquemart-Andre. No sure if we would have without the information in the book. I love to see how people collected art - and the Jacquemart-Andre is a great example of that. Reminds me of my favorite NYC museum - The Frick.
The Opera Garnier is now 7 euro - worth it for the Chagall ceiling alone. Sadly, the room at the Louvre with many of the large french neoclassic painting was closed - we could see the tops of paintings still hanging on the walls over the plywood - tease! I'm not sure if this was just a very temporary thing, or if they're relocating these paintings. Ask when you get there! We had a light late lunch in the Orsay Restaurant. Worth every penny for the atmosphere!
One warning - if you're not in good shape, don't do Day 2 as recommended on Rick's 5 - 7 day tour. That's a lot of walking - especially steps if you're going to the top of Sacre Coeur and the top of the Arc de Triomphe. My shins felt it by the end of the day! Treadmill walking just won't get you ready for it. I blame it on the neverending winter here in Buffalo - next time I'll pound the pavement more before I leave.
We didn't stay in a Rick recommendation hotel as I bought the book after I booked the hotel. We stayed at a wonderful 3 star hotel in the 1st. The Grande Hotel de Champagne. Great staff - great breakfast buffet - not really cheap, but within walking distance of most of what we wanted to see. Worth checking out. It seemed like mostly Europeans were staying there.
The only question now, is when I can afford to go back to Paris, and then to London, Venice, Rome...
Laura <email>
Buffalo, NY USA Wed 03/30/2005
Paris in the Spring!
Just returned from a wonderful and romantic week in Paris! The entire week (03/15-03/22) my boyfriend and I were there the weather was nothing short of spectacular. We used Rick's Paris book as our guide, and found the information entertaining and helpful. We stayed in the Rue Cler area at the Hotel Prince on Avenue Bosquet, right across the street from the Ecole Militaire metro station, and the location could not have been any more perfect. All we had to do was turn the corner to see the Eiffel Tower and walk a few minutes before we were in the Parc du Champ du Mars. We found a great website for a company based in London that books hotels in Paris at great discounts(http://www.reservations-paris.com). We were happy to find a Rick recommended hotel and for only $105.00 a night that included a delicious breakfast for two every moring, a website perk, we saved about $40 a night off the rack rate. We found the French to be helpful and kind and just plain nice. Loved the open markets; we even brought back wonderfully molded cheeses to recreate the cheese courses we had at times. I could go on and on...I want to live there now. Hopefully we will be going back soon.
Deirdre Ingram <email>
Atlanta, Ga USA Mon 03/28/2005
Hotel de Rouen and Paris Guide
My mom and I just returned from a 2 week trip in France, including a week's stay in Paris. First, we stayed in Hotel de Rouen (not a Rick Pick), 2 blocks from the Louvre. Though it was an excellent location, budget travelers be warned- we did not feel that it was worth the 48 euro per night. Thin windows & walls; sloping floors and bed; no daily room-cleaning; no room to move. But, as far as the Rick Guide- what could be more helpful?! We carried Rick with us everywhere, and found the guide to be the best thing around! We took many of the Rick Walks and found them to be fabulous, and all the site information was excellently detailed- and I love his humor. We saw several travelers with 'Green Guides,' but many more with 'Rick,' and having both, I imagine those with Rick had better trips! We'll be using 'Rick' guides on every other European vacation!
Jaime Cunningham <email>
Glen Rose, TX USA Mon 03/28/2005
Paris
Loved the guidebook. My 15 year old daughter and I just returned from 7 days in Paris and she teased me that the book was my "bible". We found the French to be friendly, helpful and gracious. I was so glad I had read about saying "Bonjour" whenever you enter a store. It made all the difference. My daughter got ill and we found that the French pharmacies were very helpful, like going to the Dr. The OTC medication was as powerful as out prescription stuff. Today is my 50th Birthday and my husband gave me Rick Steves guide to Venice with a ticket for September. Can;t wait to discover Venice with my new "bible" in hand.
Deborah <email>
E Brunswick, NJ USA Sun 03/27/2005
Londres Eiffel and Eiffel tower
In respose to Julianne. The three ladies stayed at the londres eiffel for 165.00 euros for a triple. We had a great room but no view. If and when I can back it will be with my husband and I would splurge on the view. It is very romantic lit up at night and for 20 minutes or so on the hour from dusk until midnight it twinkles. Go for it and the wine if you can. How often to you get to go to Paris?
Pat Morgan <email>
Poughkeepsie, NY USA Fri 03/25/2005
My two cents...
Just got back from a week in Paris with my husband. We were so fortunate to have seven full days of sunshine. Four nights at Hotel du Champ de Mars were wonderful - friendly staff, great rooms, fantastic location. Three nights at Hotel de l'Alma were pretty good - not as nice as the first hotel, but we didn't spend much time there anyway. Rick Steves guide book was a wonderful companion. All of the restaurant/cafe recommendations were right on the money, especially Cafe du Marche - we loved that place.St. Chappelle is a must see. I litterally gasped when I walked into the upper chapel. Our English-speaking tour guide, Vicki-Marie, was wonderfully entertaining. Versailles' Hall of Mirrors is being renovated. A bit of a disappointment, but the palace is still very much worth the trip. It puts the French Revolution into perspective. Also, the WWII section of the Musee de l'Armee was very moving. It completely changed the image I had of France's part in the war. The Picasso museum was a disappointment. I think you have to be a huge Picasso fan to enjoy it. The Carte Orange and the Five-day Museum Pass were our best buys.This was my first trip using a Rick Steves book, and I seemed to see them wherever we went. I will never travel to Europe without one.
Linda <email>
El Segundo, CA USA Thu 03/24/2005
Hotel Londres Eiffel-Paris
My husband and I have stayed at Hotel Londres Eiffel twice, both times with the Eiffel Tower view and it was more than well worth it-incredible. The rates are still reasonable and it's a great location. We love Paris so much that we are moving there for a year, departure date is next week March 31! Au revoir!
Pamela Leavy <email>
St. Petersburg-soon Paris!, Florida USA Wed 03/23/2005
Hotel Londres Eiffel and Goldenair CDG Shuttle
I have a few notes from my Paris planning....
THe Hotel Londres Eiffel has raised its rates from 99 Euro to 115 Euro for a Sb.
For transportation connections (pg 409-410), Golden Air has raised their rates for one-way trips between Paris and CDG from 18 Euro to 39 Euro.
I did not see this information reflected on teh guidebook update page so I thought I would post it here for anyone who might be interested.
Roger Young <email>
Boise, ID USA Wed 03/23/2005
To the Ladies of the Hotel Londres-Eiffel
Ladies - I just read your reviews and wondered if you chose a room with a view of the Tour and if you did, was it worth the extra 10 or 11 euros? My husband feels that he would rather get another bottle of wine, unless it is really worth it. Appreciate your feed back!
Julianne
San Bruno, CA USA Tue 03/22/2005
Paris
We enjoyed Paris a great deal. Three ladies stayed at the Londres-Eiffel Hotel and felt it was a great choice. The Hotel was recently redecorated, in a safe area, and was very close to the metro and more importantly the Rue Cler. All three of us loved shopping on Rue Cler and stood in line to get our crepes with 3 fromages or crepes with jambon and oeufs. Yum! I bought a jar of lavender honey from a very helpful man at a honey shop on the rue Cler. (Now I can have a cup of tea and be transported back to Paris.) We used the metro some of the time but with a bad knee found some of the stairs a bit much. We liked taking the 69 bus to see the sights and for transportation. Also went on a boat ride on the Seine which was wonderful. I had to pinch myself to believe I was realy on this trip and getting to see Notre Dame, The D'Orsay, the Louvre etc... My favorite museum was the D'Orsay. The Louvre was jaw dropping in size but way too overwhelming. Saw The Mona Lisa and Winged Victory . Mona got to me. Everyone had been saying how small in size the painting was that I was actually surprised how big it was. The Eiffel was wonderful. No wait in line to get to the top on 3/10/2005! The weather was cold while we were there but most of what we wanted to see this first visit was inside buildings, we bundled up like we are used to doing in New York and had virtually no lines and a great visit.
Pat Morgan <email>
Poughkeepsie, NY USA Tue 03/22/2005
Every word is true!
Immaculate location made a heavenly stay! My 9 year old and I had the perfect week at the Hotel Londres-Eiffel. Isabelle and Arnaud exceeded any expectation I could have had. The Paris 2005 guidebook proved Rick is a man of his word. An American friend who is living in France could not believe how organized I was by using Rick's book! He has been coming to Paris since 1991 and I led Him around Paris! Every detail about the metro use, restaurants, sights and accomodations was reliable. I am revered by others in our small town for my courage to take the trip but I am telling everyone how easy Rick Steve's Paris 2005 made my journey!
Tina Boyles <email>
Vale, NC USA Fri 03/18/2005
Louvre Logistics
Forgot to mention some Louvre logistics. If you are planning on visiting the Louvre on Wednesday or Friday evening (when it's open until 9:45 p.m.) - here's a "heads-up"...The Metro station underground the Louvre CLOSES at 8:30 p.m. Also, the last Bus #69 leaves the courtyard at 8:55 p.m. So, if you're planning on staying late, plan on taking a taxi. The taxi stand is across the street (check your map). Also, the wonderful shops in the Carousel de Louvre (underground) all close at 8:00 p.m.
Beth Toomey <email>
Houston, TX USA Thu 03/17/2005
Paris - Relais Bosquet
Just returned from 6 days at the Relais-Bosquet. What a great hotel! Rooms were smallish (but on par with Paris) but the view was incredible. We lay in bed and watched the Eiffel Tower sparkle. Crisp sheets, large, fluffy warmed towels (in a spacious bathroom), complimentary coffee tray, in-room safe, mini bar(bit spare, that, but who eats mini bar stuff anyway). We played with the electric darkness blinds but never used them because the view was so spectacular. We were in room 64, but my sister was in room 41 (laid out differently but delightful). Gerard and Frederica were so helpful. Rue Cler was all the guidebook describes (please note that almost everything closes down on Sundays). Cafe Marche was a treat (try the duck). Also, La Terrasse (next to Ecole Militaire metro) was wonderful - laughing waiters and good wine.BTW, there is a launderette one block north of the Relais-Bosquet that stays open late.The sewer tour was a lot smellier than I anticipated...even a "perfumed hanky" didn't help! But Saint Chappelle is a must for everyone. Even as a medieval historian, I have never seen such beautiful glass.One highlight was a side trip to Bayeux to see the tapestry. The logistics of this were a bit tricky (email me for details) but worth it.The Marais walk (as described in the book) was pleasant...all twisty streets and easy to get lost (I was saved by a UPS man) but good things around every corner.You can purchase a Carte Orange from a machine at the Ecole Militaire stop but note you need a picture. There's a picture booth right there (pick the SMALLEST picture - I ended up with several horrid "portraits" that were too big). A very nice Metro man took the pictures and assembled the passes for us (with a smile and laugh). You can also buy the Museum pass at this metro stop - so convenient for everyone staying in the Rue Cler area.Beware of transferring on the Metro. Having been used to the London Tube, I was expecting to go up and down to transfer. No - the Metro is laid out differently and there is a lot of walking to transfer. You'll be ok if you avoid Chatelet-Les Halles like the plague. 8 lines and 3 RER's converge on this station...it's a nightmare to transfer.One last tip...Hermes sells perfumed drawer liners for 25 Euros. You get the marvelous service, gorgeous, ribbon-tied box and ritzy shopping bag for a pittance. They're upstairs at the Fauborg-St. Honore store. A terrific gift to bring back (even the airport security was gentle with my Hermes shopping bag!)
Beth Toomey <email>
Houston, TX USA Thu 03/17/2005
Hotel Leveque Paris
Stayed Feb. 26- Mars 2, 2005, at the Hotel Leveque, RS Paris, 2005. Wish they had e-mail rather than having to walk 5 blocks. I quess they want to be a traditional market street not a cyber market. Glad the hotel was not full. Only one shower and my bathroom and the shower room were never cleaned during the 4 days I was there. What happens when they are fully booked? At a cafe up the rue their 8 euro breakfast included ham and egg, unlike Leveque's. Never heard the singer. Fantastique location. Versaille had crowds, but so frigid and windy no queus even at the Eiffel. Used calories to keep warm, so ate superiorly. Glad I was forced to haul my ski stuff from Chamonix because the longjohns and ski gloves came in warmly. Has the Da Vinci Code tour been reviewed? The ugliest part of Paris is Princess Di's underpass. I love Paris in the winter.
yoshi y Shelton <email>
bothell, Wa USA Tue 03/15/2005
Paris
Just returned from Paris (Zurich to Beaune to Paris to Zurich) - enjoyed the guidebook even more when I got back as it gave me a chance to re-visit where I had been....superb scope for first time visitor to Paris, tho I can see some repeat visitors wanting more depth. As for the trip - getting 10 ticket metro passes if using as the metro infrequently (as recc by the book) saved money compared to the metro pass. People were very friendly and helpful throughout - I was repeatedly impressed by the politeness of almost everyone we ran into - travel off season is great - no lines to speak off, but be prepared for fickle weather in Paris (snowed twice). But when traveling offseason, double check to see when and what attractions are open as many hours were shortened and/or attractions (catacombs etc) closed for the off season.Food was more expensive than I thought -esp. for a family travelling so emphasizing "cheap eats" would be nice, tho I am learning that philosophies of how and what to eat in different countries may make this difficult.Next year back possibly to wine country - I'm hooked!
Bob Laflam <email>
Concord , NH USA Mon 03/14/2005
Hotel Le Tourville
Rick cites Hotel Le Tourville, near Rue Cler in the 7eme as the priciest of his recommended Paris' accomodations. We have just returned from six wonderful days in Paris (yes it was cold, but yes, there were NO lines!) and have nothing but praise for this wonderful small hotel and its extraordinary staff. Having traveled to Europe many times, this was our first visit to Paris; we loved every minute of it and will surely return, hopefully always staying at Hotel Le Tourville.
Tom and Robin Daqvis <email>
Monument, CO USA Sun 03/13/2005
Art commentary
I know you are trying to make Europe more accessible to Americans. Maybe it's because we've travelled a bit. But the comments on the art in the Louvre are juvenile and potentially misleading. For example on the ceiling painting of Icarus falling from the sky from flying too near the sun your guide states "look for someone who looks like he's bungee jumping . . ?" If a teen is not familiar with the story, the entire point of the story and art will be missed. e.g., the backward look of the father as he sees his son plunge to his death. Accessible is fine, but out in left field with bungee-jumping comments is not. Check out your other comments about the art in the Louvre.
JC <email>
MD USA Sat 03/05/2005
Paris Hotel
I am leaving for Paris on 3/7 and will, of course, report back to the Wall.
However, if the kind treatment and "bend-over-backwards-to-help" that we have received so far from the Hotel Relais-Bosquet is any indication..we are in for a super trip.
Gerard and Frederica have been so helpful...getting us the room we want, finding a room at the last minute for my sister, and even (drum roll) LOWERING our confirmed rate without our asking due to a special they were running.
I am really looking forward to meeting them and staying at the Relais-Bosquet!
Beth Toomey <email>
Houston, TX USA Fri 03/04/2005
Paris in February
We just came back from a late February trip to Paris. It was fabulous in the winter and we enjoyed an unusual snow accumulation while we were there. It was great fun to see the children excited by the snow, and the snow resting on the outdoor sculpture at the Rodin museum.
We found the Hotel de Champs d'Mars through the Rick Steves web site and felt that although it was very cramped in size, the price reasonable, clean and quiet. We found breakfast at the cafe across the street and enjoyed walking through nearby markets. The Eiffel Tower was a short walk and so were several museums and the Metro,
Paris in the winter....very romantic and beautiful! The people were personable and friendly and we plan to go again soon!
Stephanie and Bill
NH USA Wed 03/02/2005
Rue Cler area
My 12-year-old son and I spent Feb 3-11 at the Hotel du Champs de Mars. It was exceptionally quiet and clean. Breakfast at the hotel was easily 3x what we spent on a carton of OJ, butter and jam (next door) and croissants/beignets from the bakery on the corner. Francois asked that we not eat breakfast in our room but dinner was purchased nearby and eaten at the little table in our room without comment. She recommended dinner at Le Florimond, one block away at 19 Ave. de la Motte-Picquet. This 30 seat SMOKE FREE restaurant has superb traditional cuisine served with extraordinarily gracious service with kind English translation by Laurent. This was a good location for the two of us. Quiet. Low keyed. Great location with an easy walk to the Tower each night.
Patrice <email>
WI USA Sat 02/26/2005
Maison Picassiette in Chartres
Chartres is a great side trip but you do not mention Maison Picassiette and unusal place made of mosaics. The mosaics are made from pieces of rock, china,stained glass etc. The man spent a life time on it. He did not see himself as an artist but it is indeed a work of art. I think it is worth mentioning under Chartres Town.
Martha <email>
Arlington, VA USA Sat 02/26/2005
Paris es Magnifique!
I went to France during the historic heatwave of 2003 to be the best man in my friend's wedding. He had the civil ceremony in Paris and the church wedding in Provence. And of course Rick Steves was with me (in guidebook form) along the way. You can see my journey if you visit my photo albums at: www.picturetrail.com/bircher. Happy travels!
Sam Antonio <email>
San Diego, CA USA Fri 02/25/2005
A Week in Paris
Just returned from six days in Paris (mid-February) which were made delightful by following the many tips in the Paris 2005 guidebook. Hotel Londres-Eiffel was a delight and the staff bent over backwards to make us feel at home. Enjoyed Chez Agnes so much that we went back for the special event of the trip -- my wife's birthday. Also enjoyed Comptior de Septieme very much but one cautionary note is in order. The seafood salad is delicious and a meal all in itself. The excellent information on museum days of operation is a must to avoid empty vacation days and the three day museum pass more than paid for itself. Thank you, Rick and staff, for making this a most memorable trip!
Bill Zell <email>
Southport, NC USA Thu 02/24/2005
Paris flea markets
I usually go to Paris at Mardi Gras to escape the crowds in New Orleans. The only I guide I take with me is Rick Steves, with lost of Post-it notes stuck to various pages. The last edition had a short section about the flea markets in Clignacourt. Those markets at the northern end of Paris tend to e over-priced unless you are looking for fine antiques. If you like bric-a-brac and junk, try some of the smaller flea markets like Puces de Vanves, near the southwest Periphery. Go early, bring cash and be prepared to bargain. If you go as the market is closing, you may get great bargains. My daughter & I usually stay in a convent which is run by a religious order I used to work for. It's inexpensive and close to the Metro. When we go to Rome this summer, we plan to stay in a convent again; they are usually a bargain!
Louise <email>
Baton Rouge, LA USA Sun 01/30/2005
Paris to Amsterdam
Definitely the most useable guidebooks I've ever come across. The walking tours, and the plain-English history of the sights, alone, made them worth double the price! And yes, you can travel with a carry-on suitcase and a small day-pack -- my wife and I did for two weeks in Europe, with one stop to do the heavy wash. One suggestion for those who feel the heat. That microfibre clothing may dry quickly, but on a hot, muggy Paris day, it won't let the heat out, so you'll heat up pretty quick. Maybe squeeze in a cotton-blend shirt or two for those kinds of days. Have already planned for Rome in April, with Rick's latest guidebook in hand!
Norman Jack <email>
Ottawa, ON CANADA Sun 01/30/2005
The Rue Cler Area
Rick Steves Paris 2005 book was invaluable to us. We stayed at the Hotel du Champs de Mars. Comfortable roomwith an extremely friendly and helpful staff. Owner says they are redecorating all rooms this year. Breakfast downstairs was a bargain at 6.5E (per person: 2 rolls, 2 coffees, butter, jam, orange juice, yogurt). We shopped at the stores on Rue Cler, and took food and wine to our room several times. Due to recent back injury, I did Paris on a cane and had to take long rests in the afternoon. We took buses which were convenient to all tourist locations. Buses enabled us to see more of the city, and we didn't have to negotiate the many stairs and walking necessary in the underground Metro. Don't make our mistake, though. We had a bus route map, but failed to notice that at the bottom of the map Sunday bus lines are listed. We realized too late that we couldn't get a bus to some of the places we wanted to see on Sunday, and our ability to walk to some areas was greatly hampered by me on this trip. We did do some of the walking tours from the Rick Steves Paris 2005 book. We only ate in cafes, and the only bad meal we had was at the Mezzanine cafe in Centre Pompideau. Whenever we looked lost, someone always volunteered help. There were no 11:30 organ concerts scheduled for January at St. Sulpice, which was our only disappointment the whole week.
Barbara Stewart <email>
Athens, GA USA Wed 01/26/2005
Paris in Mid-January
Paris after New Years is wonderful! The hotel we stayed at, the Eber-Mars Hotel, was very nice. The best part of staying there, though, were the people that work there. Everyone of them was very friendly and very helpful. The owner took time to show me different web sites to aid in planning our next trip to France. They even loaned us an umbrella one night when it was raining so we could walk to dinner, which, by the way, was a restaurant recommended by the owner of the hotel. The restaurant was named "Le Clos des Gourmets". The food was incredible, the service was excellent, and the price was around 33 Euros per person, excluding the wine. This covered the appetizer, main course, and dessert. There were a few out-of-towners, but the bulk of the customers were locals who seemed to know each other from table to table. We had no problems with anyone, waiters, taxi drivers, all were great.
Robert Godfrey <email>
Glen Allen, VA USA Mon 01/24/2005
Paris-at Christmas
Had a great 4 days in Paris in Dec with 2 college age kids. Rue Cler was terrific as was Hotel Leveque.Used the Airport Connection to and from airport and worked out very well.La Varanque was good and enjoyable but I would skip Chez Agnes. Although the food was delicious,her attitude wasn't and the dog wasn't by her side,it was under our table(stinky)or had it's paws on my lap begging for food.Cafe La Rossillon was our favorite and the Paris Walking Tours were great.Everyone was really nice!
Pete <email>
Haddonfield,, nj USA Sat 01/22/2005
Great Trip!
My sister and I spent 6 nights in Paris just before Christmas, and had a great time. The city was even more beautiful than usual, with lights everywhere. It was very windy and cold (it even snowed one day), but we bundled up and planned our days to include a balance of inside and outside activities (and occasional coffee/hot chocolate breaks when we got really cold).
We stayed at the Hotel Eber Mars (a RS recommendation in the Rue Cler neighborhood). We got one of the lowest priced rooms, and when we booked it (by phone, followed up by an e-mail) Hamid made a point of letting us know that it was a small room with a big bed. I had nightmares about what it might be like before we got there, but it turned out that I had nothing to worry about. Yes, the room was fairly small (especially the bathrooms--one for the toilet and one for the sink and shower), but the bed was big and comfortable (being exhausted at the end of the day could have factored into it), the room was clean, and the people at the front desk were extremely helpful and friendly. We didn't need a lot of bells and whistles because we didn't spend a lot of time in the hotel other than sleeping, so it was great for us.
We used a 3-day Museum pass, and did the things not included in the pass on the other days. We also used a Paris Viste Metro pass because we arrived on Friday and left on Thursday, so the Carte Orange wouldn't have been a good buy. Having the metro pass was great because we could just hop on and off as much as we wanted, which allowed us to pop up and see some sights we may have skipped otherwise.
Favorite things: breakfasts from a local bakery, sushi bars everywhere, hot chocolate breaks, christmas lights, Paris lights, menu window shopping, shellfish stands outside of many cafes, the walks from the RS book, the views from the Arc de Triumph, the market areas just outside of the Versailles, EVERYTHING!
Rebecca B <email>
Winter Haven, FL USA Thu 01/20/2005
We recently returned from Paris. Our room at the Royal Phare Hotel was cramped and unattractive. The clerks were helpful but I would recommend finding some other hotel in the Rue Cler. Our favorite dining experience was at Comptoir du Septieme. It was both affordable and delicious. We enjoyed the smaller museums such as Les Invalides, Picasso and Rodin far better than the Louvres and Musee d'Orsay. We didn't feel as rushed and could be more contemplative. Versailles looks dirty and worn, without lustre. One of it's finest attractions, the Hall of Mirrors, is virtually closed during reconstruction. I would definintely pass on Versailles. A distinct highlight was going to the top of the Eiffel Tower at night. To see Paris glow from its highest vantage point was worth the few additional Euros.
B.C.
USA Sun 01/16/2005
a few Paris guidebook suggestions
Rick Steve's Paris Guidebook was extremely helpful during our Paris vacation the first week of Jan. I would highly recommend both the London and Paris books (GREAT walking tours!).A few things to include/correct in the Paris guidebook:
1. The Catacombs are closed until spring
2. In the Versailles section, the Petite Trianon is incorrectly pictured as the "summer house." Consequently, we wandered around Versailles for an extra 30 min looking for both.
3. There seem to be discrepancies regarding costs (sometimes in dollars, sometimes in Euros).
4. It would be VERY helpful to include the metro line numbers when describing metro stops/directions.
5. The Hall of Mirrors at Versailles is still under renovation.
6. Metro tickets (including a week long pass) can be purchased from an automatic ticket machine (in English!).
Sarah <email>
Davis, CA USA Thu 01/13/2005
Paris musuems, hotels, New Years Eve
New Years Eve in Paris was a total mob scene on the streets. Be prepared. IT was very similar to New York City, Times Square, just with multiple languages being spoken. Also, very many resturuants and shops are closed for the Eve and NY Day.
FYI: The Paris museums will be open FREE to the public on the first Sunday of the month. This will mean long long lines and the tourist Museum Passes that you buy won't let you by pass the lines on that Sunday, unless you get the 3 day or 5 day passes...even then, some guards will direct you to the long lines. Be aware.
The Hotel Royal Phare in the Rue Cler was a great budget choice, clean rooms in a fantastic location - literally right outside the door is the Ecole Militaire Metro stop. The staff was wonderful also. They were super friendly and spoke English very well.Thank you Rick. We don't travel without you.
Heather <email>
Washington, DC USA Sat 01/08/2005
Hotel de la Paix Tour Eiffel
Alas, this hotel was a great disappointment. Rooms were small (expected), elevator only went to 1/2 floors (unexpected) and the place seems determined to double bill me six months after departure.
Hotel de la Paix runs your credit card on arrival and processes it. So far, so good. They then try to re-run your card at checkout. If you let them scan your card and you then catch them, they claim that "they will credit the account this evening". They don't.
Challenging the claim when you receive your bill with your credit card provider,they will not dispute the challenge, but instead let the challenge expire. After expiration,they will again charge your card with the same amount equal to the challenged amount, which you must again challenge!
Save yourself a yearlong hassle and go somewhere else. The place is definitely not worth it.
Dave Bunch <email>
Sanibel, FL USA Wed 01/05/2005
Paris
Took husband and 3 teenage kids to Paris between Christmas and New Years. Unfortunately, most of Spain, Italy, parts of Germany and Russia were there too. NY in Paris = NY in Times Square! Booked hotels separately but museum guides were absolutely wonderful. Not much in English is posted at many museums so having Rick's books was essential to understand what was presented. The information about transportation was very good, too. We only wished the city maps had been a little more detailed (London maps were perfect). The Eiffel Tower "sparkles" each nighttime hour from :00 to :10 - great photo! Your information about becoming a temporary local was great for preparing our teenagers for traveling in a non-English speaking country. We also used the Berlitz phrase book: good for providing the questions you will be asked (at the restaurant, hotel, etc...) Thank you, Rick Steves and company.
Kathy Price <email>
Springfield, MO USA Tue 01/04/2005
Hotel du Champ de Mars
Re Hotel du Champ de Mars: I stayed there for two weeks last year & encountered no rudeness, only helpfulness from the staff. In my opinion, this hotel is a good value. Very neat and clean, pleasantly decorated rooms, and a good location if you want to stay in the 7th arrondissement. As to bringing take-out items to the rooms (the subject of an earlier post) I had no trouble doing that. I brought in a variety of items -- from the little super down the street and from the Lenôtre pastry shop -- without comment from any of the staff.
Marjorie <email>
Lafayette, CA USA Mon 01/03/2005
Correction: No English "Time Out" section in Pariscope
In "Nightlife" section of "Paris 2004" book on page 380, section "A Tour of Pariscope", paragraph #2, it states "There's a small English "Time Out" section at the end of the magazine...". I don't think this is the case anymore or at least I couldn't find it in the last 2 week's editions.
Craig <email>
New York, NY USA Mon 01/03/2005