Rick Steves' Portugal 2005: More Feedback
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Archived postings: 2004
LISBON
RICK IS GOING TO HAVE TO REWRITE HIS BOOKS EVERY 30 DAYS THE WAY PRICES ARE INCREASING--THEY HAVE FIGURED OUT THE TOURISTS ARE COMING. ALL PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION WAS UP PER FARE BY .10E AND THE BUS IN SINTRA IS NOW E3.70. FOUND MOST RESTAURANTS WERE ALSO HIGHER. NO BIG DEAL EXCEPT WHEN YOU HAVE THE MONEY READY AND IT IS WRONG, EVERYBODY BEHIND YOU IS UPSET. ROSSIO STAION WILL NOT REOPEN UNTIL 6/2006-- GET TO SINTRA BY WALKING TO ROSSIO SUBWAY STATION AND RIDE TO TRAIN CONNECTION AT ROMA-AEERIE--TRAIN STATION IS NOT IN SUBWAY TERMINAL-- WALK DOWN AVE DE ROMA THREE BLOCKS BACK THE WAY YOU CAME TO FIND STATION--SEIS RIOS IS ALSO ON TRAIN LINE, BUT SIGNS AT ROSSIO SAY DON'T USE ON WEEKENDS
THINK REAL HARD ABOUT WHAT MUSEUMS YOU ARE ACTUALLY GOING TO GO TO. ALSO HOW MUCH PUB TRANSPORT YOU ARE GOING TO USE-- PRICES ARE VERY HIGH IF YOU ARE SEING ONLY A FEW AND YOU ARE BETTER OFF TO PAY AS YOU GO--TRAFFIC CAUSES PUB TRANSPORT TO BE VERY SLOW AND YOU WILL BE TEMPTED TO TAXI IF MORE THAN 1 PERSON.
IN SINTRA, THE BUSES ONLY SHOW UP EVERY HOUR ON WEEKENDS BECAUSE OF TRAFFIC--
DEBATED DRIVING IN LISBON, BUT OPTED TO DROP AT AIRPORT AND TAXI--WHAT A WISE DECISION--TRAFFIC IS SLOW MOVING AND FLAT IN CENTER OF CITY, BUT GETTING THERE AND THEN DRIVING TO ANYWHERE BUT BELEM, BE PREPARED FOR DRIVING A STICK SHIFT AS YOU WOULD IN SAN FRANCISCO, BUT WITH BUMPER TO BUMPER SLOW TRAFFIC UP AND DOWN THE HILLS- CABBIES USE THEIR EMERGENCY BRAKES TO HOLD THEIR POSITIONS
JIM <email>
DALLAS, TX USA Tue 05/17/2005
Exploring the Douro Valley
If you are short of time, as we were going to the Douro Valley, you can drive from Porto via Vila Real to the Valley. The new A24 divided highway connects Vila Real to Pesa da Regua (consistantly signposted "Regua"). Take the exit on the A24 to the N-2 to the north of Regua and follow it down to the bridge crossing the Douro River. After crossing the bridge, you will come to a "round about". Take the first exit on the "round about" to the right, which takes you down to the N-222 river road. It's a beautiful drive to Pinhao up the river. The map on page 205 doesn't show the A-24 north of Ragua and refers to it as the P-3 Freeway going south to Viseu. I'm writing this in the hope you won't get as horribly lost as we did in trying to find the river road. The Quinta de la Rosa, near Pinhao was fabulous. Rick certainly under rates this Quinta!
Gil Elliott <email>
Stuart, FL USA Wed 05/11/2005
Lisbon and Evora
Stayed 3 days in Lisbon last week. Belem with the Monastery, museums, and monuments is amazing and a full day on it's own. The Castelo, Se, and the city itself of Lisbon is very pretty, but I was turned off by the persistent and common drug pushers. I was offered more drugs in 3 days in Lisbon than 3 decades in NYC. Did not feel threatened but was unease. The towns of Evora and Fatima however, were amazing. The Chapel of Bones,churches, and Univeritiy were all pleasing and worth the easy bus rides. Very user friendly.
LODGING - Residencia Florence, located on restaurant row, is very pleasant with an amazing lounge, clean rooms and baths, and a good breakfast. We will stay here again.
IF YOU TAKE THE OVERNIGHT TRAIN FROM MADRID, STAY IN A DOUBLE...THE QUADS BECOME VERY STUFFY AND WARM.Enjoy.
Marc <email>
Greenwich, CT USA Thu 04/28/2005
The Algarve and Lisbon in February
The travel guide was very accurate. One exception: page 121 talks about Cacela Velha being a couple of miles east of Tavira "centro". It is 12 KM, but worth the extra time. We enjoyed the two nights at Residencial Mares (57 E w/bkfst). Fatima also remembers Rick's visit. Restaurant Simao was a bit more popular, but it and Casa de Pasto were great bargains (Beira Rio was closed). Stayed two nights in Selema at Pension Mare (50 E w/great bkfst if cash and w/book). The hostess, Seegrun, will spoil you at breakfast. Call ahead for reservations for both places (The word's out, even in mid-February).
Restaurante Lourenco is small, but excellent. Rick's comments are quite accurate. Ate there both nights. We were a bit dismayed by the high Lisbon accommodation prices. Seegrun contacted the Lisbon tourist bureau and we agreed to the Hotel Inglaterra (a chain) in Estoril (35 min west by train) for 71 Euros/night (w/bkfst). A bit creaky, but we were given a three room suite! Belem was a quick train hop nearby. House of Fado was a great basic exposure to Fado (Didn't get to the live stuff). Find the Restaurante Churrasco in the "eating Lane" (Rua das Portas de Santo Antao) in Lisbon. Crowded by locals when the other places are still empty. This is where you want to order the "Porco a alentejana". Just study and absorb Rick's guidebook before you arrive, and have a few back-up plans.
Don Karpen <email>
Talent, OR USA Fri 03/04/2005
SALEMA, PORTUGAL
SALEMA, PORTUGAL. Two days in Salema are not enough. Salema has to be one of Rick's best recommendations. The little village is great, and drives to nearby CAPE SAGRES and CAPE ST VINCENT are also wonderful. The coastal road PRAIA DO AMADO near Carrapateira (a short drive NNW of Salema) along the rugged coastline bluffs is spectacular and not to be missed.
Fresh fish dinners at BOIA BAR AND RESTAURANT overlooking the beach were Perfect. The staff was friendly, efficient and very helpful. Definitely recommended. Great prices too.
The Felicidade (Romantikvilla) is attractive and offered clean rooms. (A car is really needed due to distance and climb from beach.) But the lack of anyplace to sit in the room (other than the john) and the need to work from suitcases kept on the floor (think ouch back), earned this our 'Most Uncomfortable' hotel award during a month in Spain & Portugal. Maintaining eye-appeal seems more important than practical comfort. (A couple of suitcase stands and a chair would ruin the decor.) The breakfast is great, but is keep in mind it is served only at 10:30 am, which might be a problem, depending on ones schedule. The hostess is very friendly and helpful. Next visit, we will opt for one of the private rooms near the beach, or, perhaps better still, the Hotel Residencial Salema, which is right on the beach and offers fine view balconies.
Lloyd <email>
Sedalia, Mo USA Wed 01/26/2005
NEAR COIMBRA, PORTUGAL
NEAR COIMBRA, PORTUGAL. One of our best splurge hotels (E160) during a month in Spain and Portugal was the PALACE HOTEL in BUSSACO, a few miles north of Coimbra. It is a former royal hunting lodge, located in a national park.
The Palace is tucked into a clearing surrounded by heavy forests and gardens. The mountainside location is covered with extensive woodlands, trails, pools, and some outstanding vistas. A military museum about one of Wellingtons battles is just outside the gates. Our room with private balcony was great. The buffet breakfast is Outstanding. The wonderful dining and public areas are worthy of a king. This place will knock your socks off!
Lloyd <email>
Sedalia, Mo USA Wed 01/26/2005
Train Travel to Sintra
You can not travel to Sintra from the Rosio train station for now. You have to take the metro to zoologico, then take one of the train to go to Cacem, then change to the train to go to Sintra. Found this out the hard way by going to Rosio train station.
Max Clyan <email>
NORTH BERGEN, NJ USA Sun 01/23/2005