Rick Steves' Provence & the Riviera: More Feedback
If you've traveled with this guidebook, please help us improve it for future travelers. How can it be more helpful and accurate? Did any recommended hotels, eateries, or sights disappoint you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
lodging Luberon- Provence
Please consider adding a B&B in Lourmarin in the Luberon region of Provence. La Cordiere, run by Francoise Herry, is a wonderful place. In a 15th century home, it features 4 beautiful rooms with full baths, as well as a studio apartment. We enjoyed the "rose" room- a queen and a twin bed, tasteful, whimsical decor. Madame Herry is helpful, welcoming, and speaks good English. My daughter and I paid 55 Euro a night, included a breakfast. Lourmarin is on the eastern edge of the Lourmarin and is sometimes overlooked, but all the towns we wanted to visit were an hour or less away. Website: www.cordiere.com. I would also recommend a restaurant, "Recreation", just two blocks from La Cordiere.
Carol Doyle <email>
Sun Valley, ID USA Mon 05/16/2005
La France es Magnifique!
I went to France during the historic heatwave of 2003 to be the best man in my friend's wedding. He had the civil ceremony in Paris and the church wedding in Provence. And of course Rick Steves was with me (in guidebook form) along the way. You can see my journey if you visit my photo albums at: www.picturetrail.com/bircher. Happy travels!
Sam Antonio <email>
San Diego, CA USA Fri 02/25/2005
Les Passiflores in the Luberon is wonderful
My boyfriend and I just returned from a wonderful and memorable vacation in France: 8 days in Provence, and 8 more in Paris. We stayed at the following places in Provence, which are all recommended in the 2004 guidebook:
L'Ermitage in Crestet, Hotel de Blauvac in Avignon, Les Passiflores in the Luberon (the tiny "town" is Les Huguets), and Hotel le Golfe in Cassis. All of these places happily matched the guidebook's descriptions, or were even better!
I especially recommend Les Passiflores, and have only one regret about our entire trip- that we didn't stay at Les Passiflores longer (with hindsight, I would easily give up one of our nights in Avignon). Besides the whole place being lovely, our room was spotless, the bed was comfortable (we sleep on a deluxe Tempurpedic bed at home so we are spoiled), and the shower was hot with nice pressure. We reserved dinner and Chantal, the sweet and generous owner, did indeed give us "the works". It was truly divine: wild mushroom soup; succulent baked trout with leeks and fresh herbs and a savory barley casserole; a perfectly ripe cheese platter; huge coupes of fromage blanc with a sweet raspberry puree! The meal was preceded by little apperitifs and accompanied by a jug of good red wine. Afterward, she offered us cafe or a tisane. We chose the tisane and she brewed us some lovely verveine tea from her garden. Fortunately, verveine aids digestion, because she served the two of us enough food for four, and we didn't hold back! We (a pair of frugal "foodies') agree that Chantal's dinner and our stay at her simple and basic chambre d'hote was one of our best experiences, in terms of both quality and value, in France. Please don't be dissuaded by her lack of email- it's worth the call or fax!
Also, a fun and good value place to eat in Cassis that we stumbled upon is Restaurant La Defonce, just off the port at 3, rue Laurent Ventron. It's an intimate, colorful hole in the wall with delicious, home cooking. The owner was very kind in explaining the offerings listed on the various small chalkboards, and she treated us as attentively as the obvious friends and regulars who were also dining there. We enjoyed an arugula and fresh chevre salad dressed with a honey vinaigrette, a hearty white bean, tomato and sausage stew, and shepherd's pie made with gruyere and boudin noir. These were all bread-wiping good (she laughed when she cleared our plates). Everyone else was also happily digging in. The desserts that night, however, were rather dull and not at the level of the rest of the meal. Unless you see someone else eating a dessert that looks great (our mistake), skip it and go straight to your cafe and digestif.
Last recommendation: an Avignon restaurant listed in the guidebook, Le Caveau du Theatre. We chose it because of its price range, but were amazed by the gourmet quality of the dinner we enjoyed from their 14 euro menu (just appetizer and main dish, no dessert, but you won't miss it, trust me).
Grace Mi-He Lee <email>
Philadelphia, PA USA Wed 11/03/2004
Villefranche Sure Mer not so good Experience
Villefranche Sur Mer in the French Riviera is quite charming. However, don't arrive on the train on a Sunday late afternoon. No taxis and no way to use the phone, as it was broken when we arrived. Instead we had to hike with our luggage and gifts to the mainstreet which is primarily uphill. The taxis are expensive! We stayed in Hotel La Flore which had a great view. Although I am not sure that they clean the rooms as there were many dust bunnies. The hotel also gets ansy if you do not leave your room by 10:00am so they can clean your room. Apparently the cleaning lady wants to leave by 12:00.
We had our "Do Not Distrub" sign out as we just arrived in France after a 12 hour flight, and my travelling companion was sick. The cleaning lady attempt to call our room several times to find out when we were leaving. We couldn't understand her, so she had the front desk call. They requested that we leave the room so it could be cleaned. Very strange for a hotel, unless they forgot to clean it before we got there. We were weary travellers and didn't appreciate being bothered.
Jill <email>
Seattle, WA USA Thu 10/28/2004
Nice Hotel Excelsior
I just cameback from a wonderful trip to Europe and I highly reccomend Hotel Excelsior in Nice.We arrived by train, so location is great, and we could walk (10,15 min)to the beach easily. Price was very good, 75 euros for a double. Breakfast was great also. We will stay there again when we return to this great city!
Veronica Durazo <email>
Ensenada, BC Mex Wed 10/27/2004
Hotel LeCalendal - Service Extraordinare
We had a very pleasant experience staying at the LeCalendal Hotel in September. They deserve a recommendation for going beyond the call of duty!
We arrived at the train station in Arles quite late. About 10pm. All the cabs were gone and there were no busses. Theoretically, it was a 10 minute walk to the hotel, but in actual practice it would have been very difficult in the dark, with luggage, and in a strange town with no landmarks recognizeable to us. Rick Steves warns of this situation in his book, so we called the number of the cab company listed in the book. Unfortunately, they were busy elsewhere and said it would be awhile. We called the LeCalendal, mostly to let them know we would be arriving later.
About 20 minutes later a car arrived at the train station. It was Patrick from LeCalendal, coming to take us to the hotel. He had worried about the delay, since cabs seemed to be occupied elsewhere. Aparently he had been in touch with the cab company. (There aren't many cabs in a town this small.)Patrick had to make two trips for the four of us and our luggage.
In addition to this thoughtfulness, the rooms were the largest we had in France, with the most amenities...for a very competitve price. The decor was lovely, the courtyard was pleasant, the staff friendly, and the location was convenient for walking around the town. They also had a computer in the lobby, connected to the internet, for guests to use for web email. We liked everything and everyone very much.
C.D. Andres <email>
Dallas, TX USA Wed 10/20/2004
Hotel Negresco, Nice
One of the very few deviations from the guidebook that we found on a recent trip was this:the guard at the door told us we could only visit the historic hotel as non-guests on the weekend. No amount of pleading or pouting moved him. SO, we just had to go back out on the Riviera and soak up more sun. :)
Susan <email>
USA Mon 10/18/2004
Best Pizza in France
Best Pizza in France!! A restaurant near the Arles train station and Hotel Le France featuring wood oven grilled pizza. Found the restaurant by asking a "local" where was their favorite place to eat. After day-tripping via train to Cassis and Avignon, stopped at this restaurant for salad, pizza and a bottle of wine. It was a handy place to eat before our walk back to the Hotel Ampitheatre. (A great value and location, too!)
Marge Calcaterra <email>
Saint Louis, MO USA Wed 10/13/2004
Monaco, Antibes, Villefranch
The Monaco train station no longer has baggage check. For that, they now refer you to the Hotel Helvetia, 1 bis, rue Grimaldi, near the southern access portal to the station. In Monaco, my wife and I were rarely aware of any other tourists being around. The reason: 95% of them are up on Monaco Ville (the palace hill). We stayed in both Antibes and Villefranch.
My wife, a very light sleeper, was worried that the Hotel Modern in Antibes would be noisy, since it is right next to the bus station. But it turned out to be her favorite hotel of the trip. We never heard a single bus, and the busy streets outside are quiet by 9 p.m.
One hotel on each trip has to be the worst, and for us it was the Hotel Provencal in Villefranch. I don't care that it is ugly. I do care that its carpets have not been cleaned since the Mitterand administration and that the beds (in all 3 rooms we tried) sink halfway to the floor when you lie on them. My wife also didn't feel safe there, with its flimsy locks on doors and windows that don't lock at all. We left and went somewhere else for our second night.
John Boykin <email>
Belmont, CA USA Tue 10/12/2004
Arles and Avignon
We stayed at the Hotel Calendal during our recent visit to Arles and loved it. Our room included a terrace overlooking the city, a great spot for drinking wine and watching the sunset. We splurged throughout our trip on rooms with views, terraces,and/or gardens and found them great spots to unwind and sample the local wine and food. The breakfast and lunch buffet at the Calendal was delicious, as was the meal we enjoyed at the Lou Caleu.
You do need to pay attention to the train schedules when going between Arles and Avignon. The trains didn't run as often as we thought.
Susan Gorrie <email>
Hillsboro, OR USA Mon 10/11/2004
Arles and Provence
Took the TGV from CDG to Avignon TGV. Contrary to the information in the book, it is not easy to get to Arles from Avignon TGV, especially in the evening. In fact, Avignon TGV is in the boonies and far from Avignon center.
After some research we decided to stay in Arles for our entire visit to Provence. This was a wise choice. We rented a car from Avis at the Arles train station the morning after our arrival. We didn't want to deal with the details of car rental and driving while jet lagged. We had no problems with Avis in Arles.
We chose to stay at the Hotel Regence because of its easy access to the train station(5 min.),safe free parking, and ease of getting in and out of Arles. It is also a 2 min. walk to a large Monoprix and laundry. We thought it would be easy to walk around Arles from this location and it was. We sometimes walked along the river or through the city. The longest walk was 10 min..The rooms at the Regence are updated with modern bathrooms and good beds. There is no lift. The best part of the hotel is Eric the manager and his wife. They provided the best service we've ever had in any hotel-anywhere. Eric gave us many choices for eating (most not in the book) and some recommendations on local sites. He is the BEST.
The Hotel Acacias is down the street and also looked like a good choice for the same reasons as the Regence. The other recommended hotels require driving through the city- not a good idea- and a fee for parking. Of these, the Hotel Calendal looked like it was the easiest to access an in a good location.
Of the restaurants in the book, we ate at two. Lou Caleu provided overpriced mediocre food and service. La Giraudiere (also recommended by Eric) provided wonderful food and service. The best we experienced in Arles.If you want to get "into" Provence, Arles is the place to stay. The Saturday market is wonderful. If you 're a yuppie and want cuteness stay elsewhere.
Highlights of provence were the Wednesday market at St Remy. Checkout Huiles du Monde for exceptional olive oil and vinegar. They are at 16 Victor Hugo blvd. Use the TI parking lot. Get there early. If you are looking for a good quick lunch, eat at Restaurant Le St- Remy De Provence right across the street from th TI.Also visit Isle-Sur-la-Sorgue for the Thursday market and lunch at the recommended Cafe de Bellevue.
Pont du Gard is a must. See it in the morning and then drive to the little town of Uzes(in the book) which was recommended by a local. We took the train to Cassis on Sunday. Contrary to the book there are no buses running on Sunday. You have to call for a taxi. We did a quick tour of the port and the three calanques boat ride. as soon as you get to the port get your tickets for the boat trip.Lowlights of Provence include the cities of Roussillon and the city part of Le Baux. These reminded us of tourist traps such as Eze on the Cote D'Azur and San Gimignano in Italy. Seen one, seen them all.
Driving around Provence was a pleasure. Living in the mid-west, I am not used to people who know how to drive. As stated in the book or elsewhere, you MUST have the local Michelin maps and you must think cities not route numbers.
George Scott <email>
Mn USA Thu 09/30/2004
Le Pigeonneir in Provence
The highlight of our week in Provence was our stay at Le'Pigeonneir in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. We had a rented car and just drove through the hills and lavendar fields. Corrine is a superb hostess. We stayed in the guest house by the pool, full kitchen and very resonable price. I hope Rick puts her in the next edition because it was the best place we stayed in. Here is the link to her website. http://biquette.pacwan.net/jfleroi/84/pigeonnier/ukindex.htm
Marianne <email>
Trinity Center, Ca USA Tue 09/21/2004
Places to stay Aix, Luberon, Cassis
Just got back from 10 wonderful days in Provence and Paris. I came across some wonderful places to stay that aren't in Rick's book but should be...
Hotel St. Christophe (2 stars, www.hotel-saintchristophe.com; e-mail saintchristophe@francemarket.com) in Aix on Rue Victor Hugo (next door to the Tourist office)is centrally located off Cours Mirabeau and walking distance from the bus station if you're arriving from the Marseille airport. (Make sure and take the bus right outside of baggage claim to Aix from Marseille airport.) We had a room in the back with a nice garden terrace for 75euro/night not including breakfast. Breakfast was offered for 8.5 euro outside and was a thorough offering of fruits, yogurt, eggs, and the usual breads.
In Cassis, found a wonderful hotel just around the corner from the main port area called Hotel Mahogany (3 stars web www.hotelmahogany.com ; email: info@hotelmahogany.com) on the beach with terraces either overlooking the sea or the courtyard garden in the back. Definitely worth the splurge (120euro/night for a double w/shower inc. breakfast) to have the sea views! You're right on the free beach and next to a public parking lot. The beach seemed to be the locals favorite.
Just outside of Gordes, stayed in a chambres d'hote called La Badelle (www.la-badelle.com e-mail badelle@club-internet.fr) run by Mylene. It's been in the family for 6 generations and offers wonderful poolside rooms and is centrally located to all the villages in the Luberon area. It's a bit of a trick to get to the first time, but she has signs guiding you in right to the door. Great breakfasts included as well. She has an apartment with full kitchen facilities available as well in the original farmhouse that has been completely renovated.
Rick's book is everywhere in Provence and Paris..I used his book in Italy 2 years ago and it seems it's the only book Americans are using these days over there.Please feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions.Lisa
Lisa Reinecke <email>
Elm Grove, WI USA Sat 09/11/2004
Provence thoughts
(Posted this on the France board, but should be here...) My family is just back from a month in Europe including time in Provence and the Loire Valley. Some highlights to pass on: the Marc Chagall museum in Nice is phenomenal. Whatever you think about the paintings, at least it makes you THINK..... Few paintings, but a terriic setting. How refreshing to see a modern look at biblical stories after a couple of weeks of Renaissance "high art" at the Uffizi, Accademia, Doge's Palace, etc.
Only stay in Cannes if you can use some hotel reward points! The height of ridiculousness: an AMG Mercedes Gelandewagen (useful for safaris) motionless in the Cannes traffic. Many 55 yr old guys with 30 yr old companions!
Stayed at the Hotel du Musee in Arles: old and delightful; very very nice owners. Recommend purchasing the 7 Euro parking, altho' when the owner drives off down the one car wide street with your car you wonder where on earth he's going to put it.
Les Baux is an absolute 3 star attraction: old city, great views, not many tourists. Hill towns of Provence seem cute (on the basis of a day's driving tour), but may be spoiled for some tastes. The Abbaye de Senanque is very picturesque - lavender fields, etc. Be amazed at the Pont du Gard. Arles seems more fun than Avignon: lots of concerts, art action while we were there.
Ray Clarke <email>
Malvern, PA USA Mon 08/09/2004
Les Baux, Hiking, Taxis
Rick's update notes that there's no bus from Arles to Les Baux anymore, but there are other options for non-drivers if you ask the bus drivers. You can get a cheap bus ride to another town and connect on to Les Baux, or get a $10 taxi from there.
More disappointing, the hike from Les Baux to St. Remy that Rick talks about is "forbidden" during the summer months due to fire danger.
Hikers - by asking about hikes at the Isle-sur-la-Sorgue TI, we got a great hiking guide (in English) for about 5 day hikes in the area. By busing and taxi-ing to the towns where the trailheads were, we saw some great stuff not in the RS book. The taxis are a great deal if you don't want to rent a car - luxurious and a chance to practice your French with a friendly driver. At around $10/day, much cheaper and less stressful than car rental, with all the flexibility.
Kristin <email>
Bellevue, WA USA Sat 08/07/2004
Monaco
Rick missed a bet in the Monaco chapter. Take the bus to the top of the city and the Jardin Exotique. The bus system is about as complex as DisneyWorld's. Buy a day pass from the driver for 4 Euros and ride all day. The Jardin Exotique is a cactus and succulent garden on a Monaco hillside. (Big cactus, big garden.) Skip the grotto if you've ever been in a cave. Have lunch in the little restaurant. Pay E4 for a hamburger and E5 for the view - it must be the best in the city.
Brian
Nazareth, PA USA Thu 07/29/2004
Chateaunuef du Pape wines
If you are a serious wine tourist and want to buy Chateaunuef du Pape wines, skip the stores in town and go to the wine shop Cave du Verger des Papes. Drive to the top of the hill and walk down the path from the ruin of the Pope's palace. They have a huge selection of the best of C du P wines. Their phone is (33 - 04 90 83 50 94); website is www.pape-verger.com. The Musee du Vin is worth a stop, but they carry the wines of only one negociant.
Brian
Nazareth, PA USA Thu 07/29/2004
Nice Segway Tour
Might this have been the most different thing we did in France - a Segway tour of Nice. Neither my wife nor I had every been on a Segway and my wife approached it with much trepidation, but within 15 minutes we were both zipping around the boulevards and the pedestrian walkways in old Nice. Check it out at www.citysegwaytours.com.
Brian
Nazareth, PA USA Thu 07/29/2004
Avignon
Rick's walk through Avignon ends on the rue des Tenturiers. Even if you skip the first part of the walk, don't skip the end. The rue des Tenturiers is worth the trip - dozens of small cafes, shops and bars, just the place to idle away a few hours, drinks and dinner.
Brian
Nazareth, PA USA Thu 07/29/2004
Monaco Chagell
If you are undecided about the Chagall museum, go! It is fascinating and small enough to see everything.
Brian
Nazareth, PA USA Tue 07/27/2004
Provence Hotels
We did not stay there, and it may be very nice, but before you book Mas d'Aigret know it is in the middle of nowhere half way up the Les Baux mountain.
Brian
Nazareth, PA USA Tue 07/27/2004
Mt. Ventoux & Sault
Mt. Ventoux may be unique in southern France, but if you have ever been on a bald mountain you can probably skip it. Sault is a charming little town, if a bit out of the way.
Brian
Nazareth, PA USA Tue 07/27/2004
Arles and Avignon
Last week we spent two nights in Avignon and two nights in Arles. We liked both, but we have to admit that Arles was our favorite.
Avignon has more upscale shopping and some amazing restaurants, notably L'Epicerie and L'Orangerie, which are on opposite sides of St. Pierre church. Our Avignon hotel, Hotel Danieli, was a disappointment, a bit in disrepair and backing up to the same noisy street mentioned in an earlier message.
On the other hand, our Arles hotel, Hotel de l'Amphitheatre, was excellent in every way and cost only 9 Euros more than Danieli for a triple. The rooms were spotless, large, well-appointed and quiet. Book this one if you can get it.
The Wednesday market on Blvd. Emile Combes was tremendous and fully half of it was food. We bought a straw market bag and filled it with bread, cheese, olives and cherries. We were tempted to picnic in the nearby Jardins d'Ete, but needing a knife for the cheeses, we took the food back to the Hotel de l'Amphitheatre, where the staff provided us with knives and forks and let us enjoy the food in the hotel's small courtyard.
The small plaza off Rue President Wilson, where you can visit the courtyard of Van Gogh's hospital (Hotel Dieu), is also a nice low-key alternative to the Place du Forum for an afternoon coffee or apertif.
James and Marion Calloway <email>
Durham, NC USA Sat 06/12/2004
Arles and Avignon
Just need to add my 2 cents. My wife and I stayed in Avignon over the Ascention holiday weekend and enjoyed ourselves. Avignon is a crowded city with only one thing to see - "The Palace of the Popes." Once you have seen it and walked along the Rhone to view the city from the island there is little to do except sit in an expenseive cafe. Also Avignon is expensive - same as Paris!
We did a day trip on the train to Arles and really enjoyed the ancient ruins and the country/rural feel of the city. The day we went to Arles was Saturday and it was Market Day and what a market it was. Lots of vendors, lots a people, lots of food and Provencal dishes, and lots of photo opportunities. Just plane fun! We had lunch at a little cafe between the market and the arena called L'Haute. This place serves Provencal dishes that are out of this world and the price was very reasonable.
One last thing - we stayed at the Hotel Bluvac in Avignon and this is a wonderful old building with and excellent owner and staff but - almost all the rooms face on the narrow alley/street and it seems that this is the noisiest street in France. Weekend partiers were out to at least 4am and were loud as heck and then the city street washer, street sweeper, and trash collecter began their rounds at 6 am. So the moral of the story is: be prepared, and if you can, request a room away from the street.
John and Joanne Munro <email>
Lakewood, CO USA Fri 06/04/2004
Arles vs Avignon
If you're facing this question, ask yourself: what kind of a vacation do I want? We faced this ourselves, and thought we'd be better off staying in Avignon over a Sat,Sun&Monday (more restaurants and sights open). We should have stayed in Arles! Avignon is pretty and feels like a crowded city, with a dose of Parisian chic and attitude. Also comes with sadder urban ills like homeless people and druggies in the streets. Arles feels more rural than urban; slower paced, it gives you more of a chance to savor your cafe au lait in an outdoor cafe without bleating car horns and jostling pedestrians. Its Roman ruins backdrop may not be as glossy as Avignon's papal legacies, but the power and beauty unmistakably astounding. If you live in a crowded US city and going to France, you'll probably appreciate Arles more. If you want high energy, Avignon might be more to your taste.
And to really experience Provencal countryside but still walk to the village restaurants & sights, Vaison la Romaine is THE beautiful town as homebase. Loved our stay at Hostellerie Le Beffroi in the medieval town. The hospitality and attentiveness of their staff was superb. And treat yourself to dinner at La Bartavelle, our best meal in Provence. (Best meal in France was in Lyon)
Mary
CA USA Thu 06/03/2004
Provence and Riviera
This was the best guidebook yet. Our family used it for our two weeks in Provence and the Riviera and it was right on the mark. Excellent itineraries, tips and maps. We were there for two weeks over Easter. Great weather, not a drop of rain. People were friendly and helpful everywhere we went. Biggest surprise was the cost of food and beverages while dining out. Most restaurants charged $4-$5 for a glass of soda and $7-$8 for a pint of beer. Tap water worked fine for us. Dining out is very costly, eating habits are changing and more and more restaurants are serving pizza. Even a lot of the traditional French restaurants were serving pizza which was expensive as well at $9-$12 per personal serving. It was uniformly great though. We ate in some cafes and were disappointed by the quality of the steaks and salads. I guess you have to eat at the finer restaurants to get the real French food experience. We had a few of those as well. We spent three days on the Riviera, nine in Provence and the last two back on the Riviera. Scenery in this area of France was much more spectacular than I had imagined. The mountain ride from Nice to Menton, via Eze, La Turbie and the Monte Carlo Golf Club was awesome. The coast road from Cannes south to St. Raphael rivals the Amalfi Drive and Big Sur. The Hilltowns of Provence were beautiful. I am glad we went in the off season as we had them pretty much to ourselves. We met some locals in Lacoste and we were the only visitors there. They told us that in season the tour buses are lined up and down the road, traffic is a mess and thousands invade daily. The tradeoff is that in season it is much more colorful and pretty. The flowers and trees were just blooming in April. Highlights were the Gorges du Verdun,Roussillon,Mount Ventoux and the village market days. In the Cotes du Rhone area we liked Vaison la Romaine, Fontaine de Vaucluse and all the Roman Ruins in Orange, Pont du Gard etc. The Palace of the Popes in Avignon was enormous and unbelievable. We also saw real Spanish bullfights in the Roman arena in Arles. I was surprised that we all enjoyed them although it is bloody and pretty cruel. Aix en Provence and Cassis, and it's boatride to the Calanques, were also a lot of fun. We basically followed the two week trip as outlined in the guidebook and were busy and engaged each day. We had some excellent B&B experiences which I will write about in Heroic B&B friendliness.
I would recommend this trip for anyone and will be happy to advise anyone interested.
Brian <email>
Pompano Beach, FL USA Mon 04/26/2004