Rick Steves' Venice: More Feedback
If you've traveled with this guidebook, please help us improve it for future travelers. How can it be more helpful and accurate? Did any recommended hotels, eateries, or sights disappoint you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
Hotel Agli Alboretti
I found the Hotel Agli Alboretti to be just as Rick describes. The staff was very helpful, the room adequate in size, clean, and comfortable. Ask for a complementary city map at the front desk. It was detailed and helpful. I'd definitely stay here again.
JSC
Pittsburgh, PA USA Mon 05/30/2005
Venice B&B/hotel
We just stayed at a great place not in the Rick Steves book but definitely should be: Al Campaniel in Venice. It was a fabulous location, very clean, very new and a great price. We had the basic room and it was just great-simple with a desk and very comfortable bed. We took Rick Steves' recommendations everywhere else but actually found this recommendation on the graffiti wall and gave it a try, especially b/c of the good price. Also, the pictures on the website of the place are true to life. One of the pictures is of the room we stayed in and it really did look like that. And the owner (Marco) speaks English perfectly and is very nice. http://www.alcampaniel.com/
kate <email>
Falmouth , MA USA Thu 05/26/2005
Casa Rezzonico
Our stay in Venice was the highlight of our two week trip to Italy. Casa Rezzonico was wonderful! Quiet and within walking distance to boats and San Marco, etc. We walked everywhere. We ate at Rick's Osteria da Carla, excellent, but not a hole in the wall. It must have been done over. There are only 9 tables. Thanks Rick for making our trip a success again this year!
Linda Bell <email>
Sewell, NJ USA Sat 05/14/2005
Albergo Marin
I would like to second Al's opinion below regarding Albergo Marin. We too chose to stay there because it was convenient to the train station for an early morning departure. We found everything he says to be true, and we were very satisfied with our choice to stay there.
I would also like to recommend La Zucca as a great place for dinner, about a 5-10 minute walk from Albergo Marin near Campo S. Giacomo dell'Orio in Santa Croce. It is a small place, and the food was excellent. I would recommend making reservations ahead of time. Their vegetable dishes are especially good. My husband had a pate for an appetizer, and I had a pumkin flan. We shared a pasta dish, and a meat dish (duck) and a side dish of wonderful asparagus, as well as a 1/2 liter of house wine. we had more than enough food and it was all excellent. Our bill was about 45 euros.
Conny <email>
williamsburg, VA USA Mon 04/18/2005
Venice – Hotel Danieli – Bargain Splurge for Seniors
I was able to get a great bargain on the Hotel Danieli – 310 euros for a 800 euro suite. The five star Hotel Danieli is considered the best hotel in Venice. It is on the Grand Lagoon and only 100 m from St. Marks. Charles Dickens, Steven Spielberg and Elizabeth Taylor have stayed there. It was a Doge’s Palace. It is everything that you think a 5 star hotel should be - excellent service, beautifully appointed rooms, and a posh interior.
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My wife and I like to experience a variety of accommodations. We really can only afford rooms in the 100 euro range, but we wanted to splurge on our last night of our trip. I did a lot of searching on the Internet and found this deal. It is on starwoodhotels.com. The Danieli is part of the Luxury Collection of the Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Look up Italy, and then Venice and click on Hotel Danieli. It is listed under Retired Persons Rate (not the AARP or Seniors Rate). You have to be 60 or over. It requires one night’s reservation that is not refundable. They also list a Deluxe Room for 240 and a Supreme Room with a Grand Canal View for 310. I called their reservation number, 800-325-3589, for the Supreme Room with view but they said I could also get a Junior Suite in the original hotel on a small canal for 310. They have a newer wing, but we wanted to stay in the original hotel. For comparison, http://danieli.hotelinvenice.com/ listed some special prices and the Suite was 470 and required at least a two night stay. Expedia and hotels.com were 810 euros for the junior suite. (Note: I can’t find the Retired Persons rate anymore. It may have only been for the low season. You might call Starwoods and ask about it. We stayed on April 10.)
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Although check in is supposed to be after 3PM, we were allowed to check in at 10AM. The reception clerk escorted us to our room.
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The room had double mahogany doors with an inner pair and an outer pair. The sitting room was finely furnished in antique furniture and had a 20 inch Bang Olafson TV. There was an honor bar and refrigerator. There was a complimentary bowl of Lindt’s chocolates. I don’t know if they do if for all rooms or just the suites, but the management sent a complimentary bowl of fruit, Italian champagne (Bioli Gran Spumante Brut) and a floral arrangement of cymbidiums.
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The bedroom had a big blown glass chandelier. There were big closets with lots of drawers. All the doors were fine hardwoods. My wife says the pillowcases were linen. The sheets weren’t high count. They turned down the bed and put chocolates out when we were out of the room.
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The bathroom was enormous. It had two sinks, a bidet, toilet, and big tub (no Jacuzzi) with a built in shower. The floors and walls were covered in fine marble. They also offered two really fluffy robes, slippers, shoe polishing brushes, and a weight scale.
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One of the fancier suites had the door open for cleaning and I took this picture. The walls were covered in silk.
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We were considering going to the hotel restaurant, but appetizers were in the 25-40 range and entrees were in the 35-50 range.I thought that we could save money by using the hotel boat to go to the airport (40 min), but cost would be 62 euros for the two of us. We used the normal public transport (70 min) for 10 euros/person. We really enjoyed our stay. It is the fanciest place that we have ever stayed in and I have lots of pictures.
Roy
San Diego, CA USA Sat 04/16/2005
Rivoaltus - leather journals
Rick doesn't list this little shop in any of his guidebooks, but I wanted to mention it. Rivoaltus is a tiny shop on the Rialto Bridge that sells real leather journals and drawing books for reasonable prices (15-25 euro). It is owned and operated by a friendly and interesting couple who make the books themselves and are overly willing to chat about their beloved hometown. We will always remember this shop. Anyone who is looking for an authentic Venetian journal that is unique (no two are exactly the same color) should try it out! Going towards Rialto, away from San Marco, it is located on the lefthand side while going downstairs.
Jamie
Houston, TX USA Thu 04/14/2005
Anticha Trattoria ai Tosi - Best Restaurant in Italy
Thanks to Rick's book, our recent stay in Venice (late March to early April) was the most memorable location of our entire trip (Florence, Siena and Rome all faded in comparison).
We stayed at Pensione Guerrato, which was everything we expected and more. Piero and Francesca were friendly, sweet and warm, making us feel welcome. They definitely helped ease the culture shock, as Venice was our first city straight out of Houston!
On to the food. I read somewhere on the Graffiti Wall that people have a hard time finding good restaurants in Venice. I can understand this somewhat, as we had probably the worst meal of our lives at a little place near Rialto, right next to the fish market. The ravioli had been frozen and microwaved several times. Unfortunately, I don't remember the name, but just beware of any waiters standing next to large English menus, trying to "sell" their restaurant's food.
However, I want to let everyone know that Anticha Trattoria ai Tosi was the BEST restaurant we ever experienced in all of Italy. The waitresses were helpful and always in good moods, and on our 2nd visit, they welcomed us like old friends. It doesn't matter what you order on the menu; everything is absolutely delicious. It's easy for the euros to add up quickly, but if you're on a budget, just stick with house wine, a first course and a salad, and it's more than enough! I can't recommend this restaurant enough. It's in Rick's guidebook, and easy to find. It's in the Rialto area, also near the fish market (but worlds away in taste from the disgusting restaurant mentioned earlier). Their calamari is legendary - we overheard Italians ordering it, so tried it and did not regret it. Try it!! ANTICHA TRATTORIA AI TOSI!
Jamie
Houston, TX USA Thu 04/14/2005
Corte Campana B&B
My family (5 members) and I stayed at the Corte Campana B&B run by Riccardo. We had a great time in Venice in part due to Riccardo. He was very helpful even before we got to Venice. He gave us information on how to get to his place, where to get tickets for museums, and an excellent selection of a restaurant. The owner of the restaurant gave us special attention when he found out that we staying at the Corte Campana. The location of the B&B is excellent being near the St. Mark's Square, the Basilica, the Doge's Palace, and the Rialto Bridge.Riccardo was helpful in arranging water transportation to the airport to get to our 6:25 am flight. He did a special favor for me. I forgot a set of prints in his B&B that I bought in Italy and he sent them to me by mail.The only problem we had was that we could'nt stay longer.Thank you Riccardo.
Elpidio
Watsonville, CA USA Wed 04/13/2005
Corte Campana & Venice
We just returned from a week in Italy. Corte Campana B&B in Venice was terrific! We are a family of four with 2 teen-aged daughters and stayed in the quad room. Riccardo was welcoming, helpful, and generally great company. He waited up for us to arrive as our train was late, and returned my phone calls all over Italy when he received messages from me. He negotiated a fabulous gondola ride for us with a "singing" gondolier! He is as described - very "enthusiastic" and more!
The B&B location is perfect and VERY quiet! Accommodations were very comfy with charming pictures of his grandmother's wedding all over our room with some of her original furniture.
Also, try the terrific pizza at the place recommended - Pizzeria Accademia Foscarini, in the guide, just next to the Accademia Gallery on the Grand Canal. Very reasonable for the views, and truly HOT, delicious pizza! Riccardo sent us to his favorite, too, Planet Restaurant, which was simple and delicious and less expensive- free drinks on Oscar's Birthday night!!!
Sue F. <email>
London, UK Sun 03/27/2005
Albergo Marin
We recently got back from Venice and want to add our recommendations for Albergo Marin. We chose it because we had an early morning flight and wanted to be a short walk from the airport bus. It's a five minute walk.
The hotel is simple, but very adequate. Rooms were clean and roomy, if a little dated. Bathrooms were small, but everything worked fine. The hotel is on a quiet street, but just seconds from the grand canal (opposite the train station). Breakfast was pretty standard roll and coffee. We paid 70 Euros for two people in late February.
The staff was very friendly and helpful. They recommended a wonderful, small family run restaurant to us that had great food. We were the only non-Italians in the place. The tourist menu was 14 Euros for a very nice meal.
Listen to the warnings about the restaurants on the canal by the Rialto bridge. We picked the fourth one down. Food was OK, but the cost was too high and the waiters could not have been more obnoxious.
Al <email>
Seattle, WA USA Mon 03/07/2005
Budget Stay in Venice
I find the Rick Steves books very helpful for sightseeing and getting around, but as a student my idea of Budget Travel is another notch down from his reccomendations.
I just got back from 4 days in Venice with a friend, and we found very good lodging and food for student prices. We stayed at the Hotel Antico Capon in Campo Santa Margherita, for only 16 euros a night. I can't vouch for the hotel portion, since we stayed in the hostel, but our 4 bed room was very clean and with a private shower. Breakfast of coffee and croissant at one of the cafes in the Campo is included in the already low price. The owner was very friendly and gave us any help we needed, as well as dining tips for the area. He and the other reception staff were quite nice to us tourists, and never seemed to be just after our money or doing the minimum.
Campo Santa Margherita was very nice, and not touristy at all - the crowds at night were locals catching soccer games at the cafes around the sqare. In the day it was busy with open-air market stalls. On the hotel owner's reccomendation we ate at local (non tourist) restaurants, and found big main dishes or pizzas for 6-7 euros a plate. After going all around the city, we kept coming back to the Al Sportivo restaurant in the Campo, for low prices and good food. There's also one of the few supermarkets I saw in Venice in the Campo, for even cheaper meals. Also spent plenty of time at the Madigan's pub in the campo, chatting with locals or owner Daniel, who was a blast. This Campo is just across the bridge from San Pantalon church - not much on the outside, but the inside is amazing with the biggest painted celing I've seen outside of the Sistine Chapel.
So, my friend and I enjoyed a very relaxed, non touristy 4 days in Venice, and ate lots of good food at restaurants, at a small fraction of the prices I've seen on this message board or in books. I'm glad to know that despite the generally high prices, Venice can also be enjoyed very much on a shoestring budget.
Luke <email>
Eudora, KS USA Wed 03/02/2005
Consider the Locanda Orseolo for your stay
Our first trip to Venice this December was exceptional with the facts, humor and advice in this guidebook. The walking tours were a highlight of our stay! One hotel to consider is the Locanda Orseolo.We read 100's of rave reviews about this hotel on tripadvisor and their positive feedback continues to grow. The location makes it great to navigate the city. It's close to St. Mark's Square on a canal (you can take a water taxi to climb in a window and into the hotel!) but the area is away from the hustle and bustle. The rooms were nicely decorated and immaculately kept. Breakfast was included in the room rate and was a delicious start to the day. Best of all, were the people who work there, Mateo, Barbara, Francesco, and Bruno. Their goal is to have you enjoy your stay, and enjoy it you will!
<email>
Foster, RI USA Mon 01/31/2005
free internet in venice
Something I found on the website: http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/venice/dm_saving_money.htmat tip for free internet in venice, which you should add to the book. Telecom has set up a "future center" with a free internet cafe upstairs in a historical building in Campo S. Salvadore just behind the Rialto area. Walk in ask for a red card and you have 30 minutes of free internet, unlimited cards available!
Laurie <email>
Lansdale, PA USA Sun 01/30/2005
Corte Campana - great experience!!!
We stayed here the first week in December and would highly recommend it to anyone who wants to stay in a great B&B in a prime area in Venice. We called from Rome to make our reservations and spoke directly to Riccardo, the owner. We took the vaporetto from the train station to St. Mark's square, then the short walk as described in Rick Steve's book.....very easy to find.
Riccardo was awaiting our arrival. He went above and beyone anything we expected when my wife had a medical emergency the first evening. Riccardo personally escorted us to the hospital emergency room, stayed with us to translate and then took us to a pharmacy to get a prescription filled.
It was a real treat to stay in a 600-year old former home of royalty near the Doge's palace. This is Riccardo's home and he made us feel very welcome. Breakfasts were great and the croissant's were delicious (Riccardo was very proud thet they were the same as delivered to the luxury hotels in Venice).
We recommend this to anyone wanting a wonderful B&B experience in Venice. Rick Steve's description was highly accurate.
Ron & Katy <email>
Shenandoah, IA USA Thu 01/20/2005
Corte Camapa
We were very fortunate to be able to stay at Corte Campana at the end of December 2004 - our rooms were clean and comfortable, the location was marvelous, and as others have said, Riccardo was very helpful, friendly, and delightful to talk to. It really felt like we were staying with family.
Elizabeth and Richard <email>
Madison, WI USA Thu 01/13/2005
Locanda Ss. Giovanni e Paolo in Venice
Rick, please add Locanda Ss. Giovanni e Paolo. Excellent location, most helpful and attentive staff. Good balance of price and quality. Highly reccomanded.
Jeff <email>
san diego, ca USA Thu 01/13/2005
Ca Bernardi
Just returned from 2 weeks in Italy. In Venice we stayed at a great B&B: Ca Bernardi. (www.cabernardi.com) Amelia is most helpful and attentive. Highly recommend this beautiful, clean B&B!
Louise
Denver, CO USA Sun 01/09/2005
Our photos and recommendations for Italy
For anyone interested, we have a web site of our trip to Italy in June of 2001. Aside from the pictures of us having a great time (thanks to our guru St. Rick), we have included a listing of the places we stayed, what they charged us, and our opinionated review of the room. Hope you find it useful in planning your trip. http://users.adelphia.net/~tabacchi/italy.htm
Ken Tabacchi <email>
Redondo Beach, CA USA Tue 12/28/2004
Locande San Trovaso Pretty Good
I don't think the rooms keeper swept the floor very often, but for 85 E s/b a night this Hotel is a pretty fair deal by Venice standards.Dorsoduro is an under-rated night wandering area, and let's keep it that way. ;)I rarely expect perfection in a frugal price range but this was a clean charming family hotel that always felt good to come home to. Thanks Rick.
Jonas K
CAN Sun 12/19/2004
Rick's guide books
Just got back from another trip to Europe. This time, Venice and Florence. As usual, we did a lot of research before going, checking out various guidebooks; and as usual Rick Steves' guidebooks provide the most relevant,up-to-date and most current information of anything out there. Based our budget and daily itineraries on Rick's books and its like having your own private tour guide on a tour at your own pace. Good work, Rick.
Marsh Mendez <email>
Fremont, CA USA Wed 12/15/2004
Domus Cavanis
Very clean and a bargain for Venice. Modern and the best shower we had while in Italy. Breakfast across the street at the Belle Arti is wonderful.
Sonya Ingle <email>
Powder Springs, GA USA Tue 12/14/2004
Taverna San Trovaso
Excellent, excellent, excellent! Courteous staff and wonderful food. Like Rick says, get in line early though or wait in line.
Sonya Ingle <email>
Powder Springs, GA USA Tue 12/14/2004
Trattoria al Cugnai
Stay away! The 3 'gruff sisters' are also greedy and take advantage of tourists. We waited for 45 minutes for a table, while all the 'locals' or even just visiting Italians were waved forward by the bartender. We were also charged 15 Euros at the bar while we waited for one small glass of beer and one small glass of house wine. We decided to leave, but one of the sisters just insisted we wait longer with promises of a table. Wish we had! The meal was medocre and over priced. I felt totally ripped off and humiliated after visiting this place.
Sonya Ingle <email>
Powder Springs, GA USA Tue 12/14/2004
Corte Campana--Fabulous
We would strongly recommend Corte Campana and Riccardo. We had a wonderful time in Venice, despite the bad weather. Riccardo went above and beyond--provided us with an umbrella and boots so we could walk around despite the rain and flooding. His prices are good, the room was huge, the private bathroom with large tub a welcome relief after some of our other hotels--plus he's located in a great part of town. We hardly left the area and we had so much fun. Plus we really got to know Riccardo as well as the other guests pretty well which is a major plus of a good bed and breakfast. I wouldn't even consider staying anywhere else--we just loved Corte Campana.
Angelic and Jordan <email>
Takoma Park, MD USA Tue 11/30/2004
Locanda La Corte
We were very pleased with our accommodations at Locanda La Corte, one of the hotels recommended in the guidebook. Our room was a large suite with two windows overlooking the canal where the hotel is located. There was a very nice reception area and a charming courtyard where breakfast can be taken in warmer weather. I admit we had some doubts when we walked down the very narrow Calle Bressana from SS Giovanni e Paolo square to get to the hotel. But the passageway opened up to the lovely canal area with its bridges. The hotel had available knee-high rubber boots for guests to borrow so we were able to experience the acqua alta without soaking the only pair of shoes we had with us. We had a wonderful experience in Venice. The guidebook was very helpful.
Marilyn
Poughkeepsie, NY USA Tue 11/23/2004
venice 2004 guidebook
Thank God for Rick Steves' books!I cna't begin to describe how that book was usefull during our recent trip to Venice!So simple, yet so detailed. I haven't had to take any guided tour. Wherever I entered, I open my book and read my way through!I found everything I needed to know in that book, and more...
veronique <email>
Salisbury, MD USA Thu 11/18/2004
Ca' Bernardi (B&B)
We found a great new B&B in Venice, called Ca' Bernardi, recommended by a friend from Cupertino. It's a great location in San Polo, close to the Rialto bridge. It's run by a mother-daughter team originally from the US but with deep Italian roots. The courtyard is delightful and the rooms are unique, nicely furnished, and well priced. They go out of their way to help you make the most of Venice. Google Ca'Bernardi and you'll find several links, word is spreading fast I guess.
Kevin <email>
San Francisco, CA USA Fri 11/12/2004
Take Rick's advice and stay south of the Academia. Much less croweded and wonderful. We Stayed at Ca' San Trovaso ( In Rick's book it is listed at Locanda San Trovaso) The rooms were huge, clean and new. The people were very nice. And Breakfast was great!
Angie <email>
Beaverton, OR USA Thu 10/28/2004
Locanda Sturion
It was the most expensive hotel of our trip(360 euros for a quad), but it was awesome!! the view!!We would pay it again, Venice worth it... what a magic city...
Veronica Durazo <email>
Ensenada, BC Mex Wed 10/27/2004
Locanda Novo Venezia
We fell in love with Venice. Five women,travelling together, rarely are in total agreement, but in the case of our feelings about Locanda Novo,we were unanimous. We were totally charmed by the friendly, helpful staff and thoroughly enjoyed the themed, spacious rooms and common area where we enjoyed our breakfasts. A delightful place to stay. Thanks, Rick, for yet another great recommendation.
Kathy Schroeder <email>
Loon Lake, WA USA Tue 10/12/2004
venice hotel al leone
Hotel Al Leon, very comfortable pensione at the san zaccara stop. Walk thru small alley way (along side prison) construction going on at prison. Very nice 3 star hotel, great location quite in back near the square st. philip and giacomo, close to st. mark's square. Large rooms, very nicely decorated, good updated bathrooms. Very lovely owners, helpful with good english skills. Great little bakery next store. The italian people very gracious, love when you try to speak italian!! Happy traveling, Anne
anne reyes <email>
salisbury mills, ny USA Fri 10/01/2004
Venice -Hotel Guerrato
Hotel Guerrato was a good choice. Nice hotel with a decent breakfast. I would reccommend that if you have a large suitcase, that you find the vaporetto that stops at San Silvestre. You will avoid having to climb the rialto bridge with luggage. Plan on a couple of days. Get early to the bell tower and the line is not that bad.
R. Celona <email>
Pleasantville, NY USA Thu 09/30/2004
3 days in Venecia
I found Rick's ITALY guide to be spot-on for Venice recommendations, with extremely few disappointments. Only one restaurant felt like a bad experience and in unruly Italy I think that's a pretty good average. I won't bother blasting their name over one experience of mediocre food and seemingly exorbitant service charges.
J Freed Kuhnemann <email>
Torotno, ONT Canada Mon 09/27/2004
Casa Cosmo Lodging House San Marco
Rick, please add Casa Cosmo to your list of where to stay in Venice. It was a lovely oasis in a crowded, hectic, exciting city. Davide Cosmo and staff offer gracious hospitality and a welcome lodging after a busy day in Venezia. The location is great, a short walk (3 mins.) from the Rialto vaporetti stop and another short walk (5 mins.) to Piazza San Marco. The lodging house is recently renovated and everything is new, new, new. During our 14 day European tour, Casa Cosmo gets top marks for accommodations. It's located off one of the gazillion side streets in Venice, but is accessible to the main tourist areas. We left our windows open at night and were not bothered by noise even though we were very close to the Rialto and San Marco. The price is definitely right at 50Euros per person/night. The AC worked great, the rooms and bathrooms were large, the furnishings elegant. I would definitely stay here again.
Oh, did I mention we were a group of 15 - 11 high school seniors and 4 female chaperones - and took all of the 5 rooms. There is no elevator/lift, but the reward for being on the top floor is a small terrace you can actually use.
There's no breakfast served, but you can pick up something at a nearby bar serving pastries and coffee.
Credit cards for reservation confirmation only, balance due in Euros.
For delicious, inexpensive pizza (5-7Euros for a generous pizza enough to share and the Capriciossa was magnifico!) and friendly service, visit the nearby Bora Bora Pizzeria at S. Marco 5251. We liked it so much we went twice in the brief 1.5 days we were there!
Venice - First impressions were that it was crowded and hectic. I was a bit worried for our group of 15, but things went well. We were all disappointed by Piazza San Marco, we arrived at dusk and it was poorly lit and nothing much was happening. We did see the dueling orchestras, but not much else. We were enthralled by the idea of Venice itself. The students remarked about the canals and no "tubes" because the canals and vaporetti were the tubes. We met a helpful fellow traveller, a lovely British lady and her daughter on their fourth trip to Venice due to the very cheap Ryan Air fare from London. On her suggestion we treated the vaporetti like the tube and that did the trick for navigating Venice. Venice was our third stop on a European tour which started in London, then went on to Salzburg, Venice, Rome and Paris. The shopping on the Rialto was terrific. We didn't go into anything we had planned as the lines were long for St. Mark's and we only had the day, so shopping took priority. If I were to go again, I'd give it two days, but more than that, I'm not sure.
<email>
MD USA Sun 09/26/2004
Albergo Paganelli... Fabulous.
Albergo Paganelli on the waterfront, just a beautiful short walk down the Riva to St. Marks... well is Absolutely Fabulous. I stayed there last December with my lover, and although we were in the Annex, through the alley to Campo San Zaccaria (the Church's courtyard) it was incredible. Our room was the first just up the stairs, next to the desk, it was small but nice (definitely the room photo was shot angled from the doorway), our windows opened next to the hotel sign on the second floor. We could sit and see St. Zaccaria & Fantastic Square, hear it's bells, as well as the occasionally late night/early morning drunken revelers seeking cig's from the vending machine across the street.
Staying at the Annex had an extra benefit come morning, since breakfast was served in our building. It was a simple walk down the stairs for our cup of coffee while anyone at the main hotel had to wander bleary eyed out into the dawn to come back to us. My regret was that they didn't serve dinner (a bit of a problem though out Venice for me being a vegetarian). I was told that they had once been one of the finest restaurants in San Marco, but as the younger generation moved away, alas now only served a great buffet-breakfast (a family affair) with coffee from the bar.
I use to wonder about an elderly Italian gentleman who’d limp in every day for his morning constitutional, he’d come in and occasionally get his stuff from behind the bar, obviously family. Then again all the staff made us feel like we were famiglia. Although I never got a chance to see it I was told that at the top of the flight of stairs was the “room with a view” that opened to the canal. I confess our view was much better and more interesting. Every evening when we would wander back home we’d have go through a Truly Venetian Alley into a church courtyard, we’d feel the true romance that is Venice.
I was very grateful for my Rick Steve’s Venice 2004 book, though my lover teased me once ripping from my hands and threatening to throw it down a well, because I had carried it all the time and keep quoting from it.
One of our last day sites that we visited was the Campanile Tower in the Square. While standing in line we discovered that Hugo Weaving (Agent Smith-Matrix & Elrond-Lord of the Rings) and his family was right in front of us. What a time to have used up the last shot in our camera! We rode up the elevator with his entire family, to a breathe taking view. I hung back with Hugo’s wife and we chatted about the fear of height and our trip, while her husband & kids and my lover ran around to the edge. Funny thing is it turns out they were staying right next door to us at a Five-Star Hotel, that could give the Doge’s Palace a run for it’s money. I wouldn’t have liked staying there though, even in all it’s Glitt’s & Glammer, sterile security, americana conform comfits, and crowds. Our hotel had the warmth and flavor we were looking for.
The true climax of our visit was that night New Year’s Eve in St. Mark’s Square. While there was no official gathering, within the square hundred of thousands came to celebrate, forming several large crowded circles, each singing, laughing and shooting off fireworks. Well until the Polizia tried to bring order, they’d step into a group, it’d quiet down, but another group would shoot off, and they’d run over to that circle, at which time ours group would start shooting off again. I think after the first two hours they just finally gave up and enjoyed the show.
All in all it was a grand trip, even the rain couldn’t damper our spirit’s and it did rain I would strongly recommend getting goulashes or proper boots if you travel in November, December, or January.
Jonathan Tominar <email>
New York City, NY USA Fri 09/17/2004
Locanda SS Giovanni e Paolo, BEWARE
Florence and Venice were the only cities in which we did not use Rick's recommendations and we learned out lesson, never again!
Venice - Locanda SS Giovanni e Paolo, room 3, 120E per night for a small double room with private bathroom and breakfast in the room daily between 8am and 9:30am. The hotel was very close to Ospedale San Giovanni e Paolo and was about a 10 minute walk to either San Marco or Rialto. Unfortunately, we cannot recommend this hotel to anyone in good faith. Our room was UNBELIEVABLY loud - not from the street, but from the hotel lobby. We clearly heard the phone, the doorbell, people chatting with the doorman, the doorman on the phone with friends at all hours of the night, breakfast being prepared, and just about everything else. It was very difficult to get much rest to say the least.
Also, all three mornings we were awakened by loud knocking and our breakfast 45 minutes to one hour before we had specified. They actually wrote down the time you wanted breakfast (which was incredibly sparse anyway) to be delivered to your room, but they appeared to totally disregard it. Last, you were requested to leave your room every morning by 10:30am in order for the cleaning service to clean it. This wasn't a problem for us except for one day, and you guessed it - they came and knocked and requested us to hurry up and leave. My husband was more than a little irritated to be sure. There were more minor annoyances with this hotel but I think I've covered the high points. If you want any peace and quiet do not stay here!
If you do stay here, a bit of advice: bring good earplugs and maybe post a note on the outside of your door before you go to bed that says what time breakfast should come so you aren't awakened an hour or more too early.
Also, request an upstairs room FOR SURE!! We were only half a floor up from the lobby (rooms 1-3 are at this level) and that may have been why the noise was so intolerable. Although we met another couple on the top level who said they heard the racket as much as we did...The staff was ok - there is an Eqyptian man (Hasif??)on duty in the evenings and he is very pushy about trying to send you to his specially recommended authentic Venetian restaurants... we made that mistake once and it turned out to be owned by another Egytpian with overpriced terrible food. He must get some kickback from them because he had us tell the waiter his name and that he sent us. We should have known better. The woman there in the morning is friendly enough and the girl on duty in the afternoon doesn't speak a word of English.
A last word of advice, they offer wakeup calls and to have breakfast ready for you no matter what time you need to check out the day of your departure. Don't trust them. Fortunately, we set our own alarm for 5am the day we were leaving because they did not call of course. Breakfast was not brought to our room at 5:45, nor was it ready for us when we were leaving at 6am. Actually - we woke up the doorman as we were leaving. He evidently sleeps on the couch in the lobby every night - so much for a reliable wakeup call, the water taxi he was supposed to have called for us, and breakfast.
Jill Briesch <email>
Denver, CO USA Wed 09/15/2004
Hotel in Venice
La Locanda di Orsario
This hotel is worth a Rick Steve's look. I just spent 3 nights with 14 people (mostly teenagers) at the Orsario at the beginning of July and it was one of the best hotels in 18 days of travel. Close to the train station, water bus, shops and many restaurants, the rooms are well appointed and clean. The staff is extremely helpful - especially Pietro who recommended restaurants and clubs to entertain teenagers. With ac and breakfast included, it was a better value than most we looked at (tried to book Rick's hotels, but none availabe for all of us in a price we could afford) and a true gem in expensive Venice. I would stay here again in future trips to Venice.
Karen <email>
Palo Alto, CA USA Fri 08/06/2004
LOCANDA NOVO
My friend and I stayed here 3 nights! It was great! I would stay here again in a second. The rooms and bathrooms were very nicely decorated and very large. Breakfast in bed! I didn't care too much for Venice...as it was too expensive and too many tourists..but this hotel and its location were great! I ended up enjoying the area around the hotel far more than St. Mark's area...as there were far fewer tourists. We ate at Trattoria di Bepi right next door...and it was very good....our only good meal in Venice actually!!!
Stay at this hotel. It was very nice!
Ellicott City, MD USA Thu 08/05/2004
6:35 am flight out of Venice
If you are leaving at 6:35 am out of Venice, you do not have to pay a ton of Euros to get to the airport. We took the night service vaporetto (4:15 am at our stop) to Piazzale Roma, where we picked up the 5 am ATVO shuttle bus (cost 3 euros). There is also an ACTV (municiple) bus that leaves P. Roma at 4:40 am every morning except Sundays (our flight was on a Sunday) for 1 Euro. The ATVO bus got us to the airport at 5:12 am, which was plenty of time for us to check in and board the 6:35 flight to Milan.
Be forewarned, however, that you will need to buy your ATVO tickets the day before, as the ticket office does not open until 6 am and the driver does NOT sell tickets on the bus!! We "pretended" we had tickets (old ACTV tickets) and validated them so we could make our flight! Don't recommend this method, however!!
PH <email>
Northern Virginia, VA USA Mon 07/26/2004
Pensione Guerrato
Must put in another plug for Pensione Guerrato. We (myself and 2 children, age 8 and 12) just returned from Italy and had a wonderful 4 night stay in Venice. The owners were extremely friendly and helpful. The pensione is quiet, but in a great location in tourist-infested Venice. We had a bathroom down the hall which was absolutely immaculate (cleaner than my own at home :-) Air-conditioning in our room made it restful and comfortable after a day in the hot Italian sun. Truly a gem, and a great value for super expensive Venice.
Patricia <email>
Washington, DC USA Mon 07/26/2004
Getting train tickets from the U.S.
I would like to disagree with the people who suggest you wait until you are in a city to purchase your train tickets. On two different occasions I have wasted hours standing in lines at the train station in Venice, only to be met by a rude ticket seller that would not answer my questions or would pretend not to understand my request. Once, when I got to the front of the line, he closed for lunch!! I always get my tickets and reservations from DER travel. Sure there is a surcharge but the time it has saved me has made it worth the money.
USA Wed 07/21/2004
Hotel Guerrini and the Airport
Another good value hotel near the train station is the Hotel Guerrini. Logisticly its in an excellent location and priced at 90 Euros in July for a Db room. We got room #40. Warning: there are narrow stairs involved, no elevator or A/C, but its close to the vaporetto stops and Piazzale Roma. The #5 bus to the airport is a bargin at one Euro. Buy your tickets the day before if taking this bus early. The airport is not well thought out since flights out start at 6:25am but the ticket counters only open at 5am. You won't know which line to stand in until the video monitors light up at 5 sharp. Everyone else seemed to know where to line up but us.
Owen <email>
Eugene, OR USA Mon 07/19/2004
Corte Campana
Be wary of Riccardo at Corte Campana. When we met him at his B&B, he claimed it was his private residence only (contradicts his web site). He proceeded to walk us five minutes to another B&B (Corner of the World). We ended up with a nice room, but it had a shared bath at the same price as the Corte Campana room with a bath. When we arrived at Corner of the World, he changed his story to say he had plumbing problems at Corte Campana, and so found us a room at this other B&B. This guy is acting as a booking agent for another B&B, giving travelers a bait and switch experience.
Steve <email>
Cupertino, CA USA Sun 07/18/2004
Venetian Glass
Glass. A sign in one merchant's window in Murano declared that he was not selling glass from Eastern Europe and China like his neighbors. This blew me away. It communicated that one cannot be sure they are buying "Venetian" glass unless they see it being made! Just because you pay a fortune for some glass object is no guarantee it was made in Venice.
Steve <email>
Cupertino, CA USA Sun 07/18/2004
Bag checking at San Marco
Another way you can deal with the bag checking at Basilica San Marco is to check your bag at the Correr Museum, which opens at 9 rather than 9:45.
Steve
Chicago, IL USA Thu 07/15/2004
Casa Querini, WIV and Restaurants
My husband, myself, our children and other family members stayed in Casa Querini while in Venice recently. I couldn't have been more please with the room, location, price, and personnel. Especially Elena who had been very patient with me for the prior year while I adjusted our reservations through email. It is hard to be the group organizer. I also want to mention Sara of Walks Inside Venice who gave us a marvelous tour of St. Mark's, etc. A brilliant woman with a wry sense of humor. We loved every minute. Lastly we ate at Osteria Enoteca San Marco the first night and immediately cancelled our reservation for the next night at Da Raffaela. The prices were ridiculous even for Venice standards. I just hate getting ripped off. We had an absolutely fabulous meal at Tratoria agli Artisti on Ruga Guiffa. I truly recommend searching this place out. It's about 1/2 block from Santa Maria Formosa. All in all Venice is worth seeing once for a couple of days but staying in Cinque Terre for a week was the highlight of the trip. We can't wait to go back.
Antoinette Serafino <email>
Livingston, NJ USA Wed 07/14/2004
Venice-Albergo Marin
We just returned from a wonderful trip to Italy. We wanted to recommend Albergo Marin in Venice. The staff, especially Stephen Eddy, was extremely helpful and kind. Stephen went out of his way to help us with directions and train schedules. His English is also great.
Sonal Mather <email>
Greensboro, NC USA Mon 07/12/2004
Venice in June
Rick is right about where to eat pizza by the Accademia bridge, the rosticceria anr St. Bartoleme (delish) We found an outdoor pizza place Al Vecio Portal Catello, 3990 that while we were there a group of boys got their soccer trophies-fun to glimpse real life as opposed to tourism.
Surprise-the boat ride and glassblowing demo at Murano-both delightful.
Peggy Guggenhim Museum - a must- stays open late Saturdays June-July with concerts 8:15
Canarregio has the important ghetto and the best geleria we found, Il gelatone - try the watermelon
Machlowitz <email>
NY, NY USA Sun 07/11/2004
Hotel Guerrato
Spent 3 nights at Albergo Guerrato. What a find! We had a triple room (3 single beds w/ private toilet/shower). Staff was helpful. Great location to explore all parts of Venice. Tip: Exit the vap. at the San Silverstro stop so that you don't have to lug luggage over the Rialto bridge. Rick's suggestion on the travel agency to buy the tickets worked well! I had print outs from the internet on the times/trains I wanted to ensure accuracy and a smooth transaction.
Helen Turner
Pleasant Hill, CA USA Sat 07/03/2004
New rule to check your bag at St Marks
Checking your bag at St Mark's posted as a requirement but the enforcement seemed spotty. Most people went in with bags. Also the place that takes you bag is not well signed, does not have very much capacity or security and does not open until the church opens so if you are travelling with a companion send one to check the bag while the other stays in line to get into the church. But I would just hold on to the bag and take your chances that they will not stop you.
Tony <email>
Lincoln, NE USA Sun 06/27/2004
Gondola rides
The gondola rides from American Express are much cheaper than booking one on your own. There are 5/6 other people but that didn't bother us. It was a nice, long, ride and they had a singer along. We will do it again!
USA Fri 06/25/2004
Do the Gondola
Venice is a beautiful city. If you're looking for things that aren't too expensive, don't shop in the main square. If you're looking for inexpensive gifts try this shop called Bartolucci's. They these cute wooden cutouts made by scroll saw. The cutouts are made into gifts ranging from keychains to wall clocks that move. A gondola ride can be expensive, but if you take one from a back canal, it is a bit cheaper and the ride is well worth the money. The tour through the more secluded parts of Venice is truly wonderful. We only stayed one night in Venice and wished we had stayed longer. Despite it being more expensive, it would have been well worth staying there a couple more nights.
Micina <email>
Waianae, HI USA Thu 06/24/2004
Hotel Fontana & "Cantino do Mori"
We had a great stay at the Hotel Fontana! I made reservations online before our trip and all worked out better than expected. Gabrielle, behind the desk, was very helpful. Breakfast (included) was very nice. Our room, number 10, was clean and the view out our window over the street was interesting. Unlike our poor experience in Firenze with street noise, this was quiet at night. We'd return again. We experienced an uncharacteristic weather pattern for early June, with thunder, lightning and rain each of our 3 nights, and slightly cooler temperatures. The "Cantino do Mori" recommended in Rick's book is a fun afternoon/evening experience with inexpensive wines and great food, "cicchetterie" (appetisers).
Michael
Bellingham, WA, U.S.A., USA Sat 06/19/2004
Hotel: Locanda Novo
Recently stayed 3 nights at the Locanda Novo, and would definitely stay there again. Large room, nice bathroom, in an interesting 15th century palazzo, on a narrow street just off Campo S.S. Apostoli. Great location for walking everywhere, helpful and friendly staff. Good restaurant about 3 blocks away, on Strada Nuova, - Trattoria di Gianni.
Hille <email>
Neenah, WI USA Fri 06/11/2004
Locanda Sturion
While we paid the most for this hotel in Italy, it was WELL WORTH every penny. The staff was great, but our room was fabulous. We chose to pay more and have a canal view room. I could not imagine staying in Venice without it! We were just down from the Rialto bridge; a perfect location. I could not say enough great things about the hotel or the staff. They too have internet access in the lobby area; it was very popular. While the book did not mention the hotel preferred cash payment, they have a sign posted, but you can pay by credit card. They initially told us they would give us a 5% discount if we paid in cash. I told them we would try, but wasn't sure if I would be able to get that much out of the bank machine. When we did check out and paid cash, they were so thankful, they gave us a 10% discount! When we go back,we will definitely stay there.
They also gave us a "free" boat trip to Murano. They treated us like royalty with a private tour. We did buy some items, but no where near the price they started. My husband really liked the horse the glass blower made during our tour. He called our "salesman" after we got back to our hotel and he had the horse delivered to our hotel later that day as a birthday present to him. (He gave me a murano christmas ornament because it was my birthday that day also). They then gave us a boat trip back where we met a couple that were on a cruise....found out that this woman graduated from the same nursing school in chicago and found out reunion information that I had not been able to acquire. What a great trip; can't wait to go back!
Joyce
Atlanta, GA USA Thu 06/10/2004
Casa Gerotto Calderan
This place has dorm beds available for about 23 euro per bed, per night. Stayed hear mid-May and thought it was really good! Shared a room and bathroom with four others (all same sex). The room was tight but we didn't have a problem with that. Located about 10 minutes from the train station. Clean and friendly. They have a lockout but it wasn't a problem for us. Mostly 20 somethings that stayed here. Would definitely recommend it if travelling on a budget!
Kelly
Philadelphia, USA Tue 06/08/2004
Venice
Spent 3 of our 10 days in Italy in Venice and really enjoyed exploring the the back streets. You can't get lost but you do see the heart of the city. Found two enotecas that sold very good table wine table in bulk for 2-3 euros per liter - great for those picnics! San Marco was delightful in the evening after the crowds left.
Enjoyed our stay at the Hotel Paganelli. Centrally located near San Marco and the staff was very gracious and accomodating (offered us a very early breakfast so we could get an early train). We'd stay there again. Had very good food and warm service at Tratorria de la Rivetta a couple of blocks behind Hotel Paganelli.
Cathy
Longmeadow, MA USA Mon 06/07/2004
Hotel/Food/Airport Transportation
We stayed at HOTEL GORGIONE. This was our most expensive hotel - don't know if it was because it was Venice or because of the 4 star rating. Don't know why it was rated 4 stars, as it wasn't any better than the rest of the 3-star hotels we stayed in (with the exception of providing us with plush towels.)
We ate at VECIO FRITOLIN. I don't think this restaurant is mentioned, but it was very good. Many seafood items on the menu, we had a hard time deciding what to order. It is located in the Ognissanti area. We also enjoyed the food at OSTERIA DI SANTA MARINA. However, they were short-staffed. We ended up staying at the restaurant for almost 2 1/2 to 3 hours (we were hoping for a quick dinner since it was our last night and we wanted to go back to the hotel to pack.)
TRANSPORTATION TO AIRPORT: There is actually a direct vaporetto?/boat at the Fondamenta Nuove stop that would take you for only 5 euros/per person. We didn't take it since we had to catch an early flight (the earliest departure was 8:56.) However, taking the vaporetto to the bus station, then transfering to an orange bus was very easy.
Melinda
Palo Alto, CA USA Tue 06/01/2004
Venice accomodations
We just returned from Venice for 3 days and used Rick's guide;however, we stayed at Locanda Conterie on Murano Island which is only a 15 minute boat ride into Venice train station or transfer to another vaporetta. Easy access.
. Excellent price of 90e w private bath-quiet-basic breakfast and lovely room. We would stay there again if we went back.
Jack Morrison
Steamboat Springs, Co USA Mon 05/31/2004
In defense of Vicenza & Padua
Regarding Sandra's post on March 17 - yes, Vicenza is the home of an Army base (I happened to be stationed actually), but don't let that turn you off to what the city has to offer. It's unfortunate that you had a bad trip, but there's a lot to see here. And Padua is also worth a visit as well. I will agree that if your time is limited, then it's best to spend all your time in Venice, but if you have the ability to do a day trip or two, Vicenza and Padua combine to make a good one. Vicenza is only about 45 mintues on the slow train, Padua even less.
A few things not to miss here are the Rotunda (Thomas Jefferson used it as his model for Monticello), the Teatro Olimpico, and the Chiesa at the top of Monte Berico. If you like beautiful, historic churches, Padua is full of them. If you have a car, the local area has several beautiful villas to admire.
Lastly, regarding the base - it's a small base, and is on the outskirts of town, so it's not uncommon to walk all through the town and not see any Americans. Even if you do however, most of us here are friendly and are always happy to give advice to other Americans traveling through the area. In fact, I've even got a personal website that I use to provide free info to people traveling around here. There are several pages regarding towns nearby here that would make good day trips from Venice (including Vicenza). Here's the link - www.rikthib.com/italy.htm - you may have given up on Vicenza and Padua, but hopefully other people won't!
Rik <email>
Vicenza, Italy Tue 05/25/2004
Hotel Giorgione, Venice, Italy
Hotel Giorgione, Venice, Italy - My sister, adult son and myself booked rooms in this hotel from May 2 - 12, 2004. She and I had a superior twin room on the 3rd floor and my son had a single on first. On the night of May 8th the owner's daughter's wedding dinner was held in the public rooms and reception area of the hotel. At midnight we were awakened to the sound of music, not just a bit loud, but a roar. I finally dressed, went downstairs to complain and ask when it would stop. The desk clerk didn't know. Finally, at almost 3:00 am it did stop. No sleep the rest of the night. This situation was not acceptable and unfair to paying guests. For a party like this the hotel should have been closed to all but wedding guests. Would never recommend this hotel to anyone. We have all mailed letters complaining and we did fill out the suggestion form left in the room, but doubt if they are ever read.
Doris Furlong <email>
Birmingham, AL USA Thu 05/20/2004
Recent Trip
Just back from a 9-day trip to Europe, of which the last 3 were in Venice. As in Germany, Rick's hotel recommendation in Venice was perfect! We stayed at the Hotel Marin (near the train station) and it couldn't have been nicer! Very reasonable, wonderful staff, and quite comfortable. We stayed in a room without bathroom facilities, which was no problem with 2 showers and 2 toilets conveniently down the hall -- never a problem.
Venice was, as we expected, ultra special! Thanks SO much, Rick, for recommending the "dueling orchestras" nights in San Marco Square. We did that twice, and those memories are among the best of the whole trip. So much atmosphere! We also agreed that the view from the bell tower of San Giorgio island was the best in all of Venice. Murano was great too. The prices on beautiful glass souvenirs were not cheaper at Murano, but the selection was better. We'd recommend the nice dockside pizzeria on Murano. Another great recommendation from Rick is seeing the medieval art in the old cathedrals. I'm no art fan, but even I enjoyed this. The best was San Rocco, with "Tintoretto's Sistine Chapel". One warning to future Venetian visitors: Walking the streets can get exhausting! We'd recommend getting an all-day pass for the vaparetto boat system.
Allen Nyhuis <email>
Indianapolis, IN USA Thu 05/20/2004
Venice
Just back from my third trip to Venice. I love it more each time I go. This time, my husband stayed home and I traveled alone. I thought it would be intimidating, but it was great, self-indulgent and fulfilling. Stayed at the Locanda Fiorita, just off Camp San Stefano. Haven't seen it in Rick's books, but it's a treasure: great, quiet location, close to the action and the price for my wee single room was fabulous. Food in Venice is rarely exceptional, so just choose an off-the-tourist-track cafe and choose simple items. Or visit bread and cheese shops and make a picnic. By all means, get away from Piazza San Marco! This trip, I went to all the neighborhoods I had not visited previously and just wandered through them. Don't skip Canareggio. My top three can't miss things to do in Venice: go to the top of the bell tower in San Marco! See the ceiling of San Pantalon church! And ride the #1 vaporetto down the grand canal at sunset.
J. Keen
Washington, DC USA Tue 05/18/2004
Apartment rented in Venice
Rating Venice Rentals on a scale of 1 to 10, I would give them a 15.
Not only did Denise and Maurizio get us a wonderful apartment, they sent us
e-mails in advance advising us of the best way to get from the airport to
the vaparetto, then which vaparetto to take (and in which direction), and
which stop to get off at. There they both met us and helped us with our
luggage to the apartment (2 months worth) as we had way too much. Weeks before arriving they offered to stock the
refrigerator with orange juice, eggs, cheese, fruit etc. (at a modest price,
of course). I was able to pay either in U.S. dollars (I sent a personal
check for the deposit to their U.S. bank near Boston), then upon arrival I
paid the balance in euros which I had left over from our spring trip to
Europe (but they would have accepted dollars as well).
I cannot say enough good things about the service provided to us by Venice
Rentals----er, rather, I mean by Denise and Maurizio; for I never felt I was
dealing with a company per se, but rather with two people who truly cared
about making us feel welcome in Venice and comfortable in our apartment.
Bob Herman
CA, CA USA Sun 05/16/2004
Locanda Arte hotel
We recently enjoyed staying at the Locanda Arte hotel, conveniently located near the Accademia Bridge. The rooms were clean, very quiet and nicely decorated in a Venetian historical style. The staff were friendly and helpful.
Casey <email>
Rochester, MN USA Mon 05/10/2004
thanks
Many thanks to Carrol from Michael and Lucia now Al Paradiso
michele <email>
venice , italy italy Mon 05/03/2004
Murano Glass - Know all costs
Our hotel in Venice Locanda Ovidius, a Rick Steve's recommendation, offered free taxi service to Murano. Be aware that this is a sales ploy. The taxi takes you directly to a specific glass factory where you are greeted by one of the sales associates offering a tour of the facilities. It is very informative and you don't have to make a purchase; however they do not encourage you to see the rest of the island. The factory, CIVAM, did have some very nice glass pieces. We did make a few purchases. When given the price the sales person indicated the quote included all expenses such as taxes, shipping and insurance. That being the case, we considered the offer a decent deal. 2 weeks later we received our items via UPS, to our dismay the packages arrived C.O.D. In order to accept the parcels we needed to pay duty tax (US Customs) payable to the factory (CIVAM). We don't feel necessarily "scammed" however we feel the sales associate was not upfront with regard to what "Total" price included. After contacting the factory, they indicated that it is our responsibility to know about US Customs charges. This is understandable, however when quoted the total price as including everything, our interpretation was that "everything", truly meant "everything". I suggest to avoid the "free" ride offered by the hotel and take the public Vaporetto instead.
S W
Seattle, WA USA Thu 04/29/2004
Antiche Cantine Ardenghi now Al Paradiso
We dined at Al Paradiso after a lenghty phone search to find the new location. We had the 60 Euro prix fixe. It was great. They have ala carte as well. The new location is very convenient to the Rialto Bridge.
Pat Carroll
Fairfax Station, Va USA Wed 04/28/2004
Venice - Hotel Ala
This is a very cute and traditionally decorated hotel. Just a few blocks (3 min walk) from San Marco on a very quiet campo. Room was beautiful with a view of the canal. Breakfast was very good. We stayed there for 4 nights in June 2002. It's a Best Western which has a great reputation in Europe. You can book rooms on-line at their web site or over the phone.
myhale
Albuquerque, NM USA 04/21/04
Hotel Agli Alboretti
This hotel has added an elevator that is not listed in Rick's '04 Italy book. We enjoyed a weekend there in April '04. They were able to provide us with last-minute accomodations (via email from Florence in my case).
Pete Helseth
Evergreen, CO USA 04/14/04
Restorante Raffaele
Just returned from a 12 day trip to Italy. We packed way too much into the trip but enjoyed it and felt so prepared from Rick's guidebooks and DVD. We actually watched the video for Florence while still in Venice to help us remember all the places we wanted to visit. We were almost silly with finding the places to eat and sitting in the same places we'd seen on DVD. One thing to watch out for in Venice is cover charges. We ate at Restorante Rafaelle in Venice as per Rick's suggestion in the guidebook and spent over $288.00 and were charged over $15.00 in cover charge on top of it. When we asked why a cover charge when we were obviously spending money in the restaurant the only answer was that's just the way it goes.
Venice is unique, but much more expensive than most of the rest of Italy. You have to go a least once and feed the pigeons.
Lisa
Houston, Texas
Lisa Jackson
Houston, TX USA 04/05/04
Venice - Hotel Campiello
Just returned from Italy and used Rick's book and this board to book our room at Hotel Campiello. We were not disappointed. The hotel is very clean and modern, and the staff is friendly. The elevator is a big plus also. They have someone on the desk 24hrs for anything you need. Other positives include the location only a short walk from Piazza San Marco, and the convenient walk from the San Zaccaria Vaporetto stop to the hotel (you don't have to go over any bridges with your luggage to get there). The breakfast is also better than most with cereals, meats & cheeses, juices and fresh baked croissants that make the whole hotel smell wonderful each morning. We would not hesitate to stay there again.
Mike & Mindy Pera <email>
Orange, CA USA 04/03/04
Florence
My daughter and I just got back from a fun 10 days in Italy. One of our favorite cities was Florence. We took the train from Rome, how wonderful and easy they are. We had planned to spend 2 nights in Florence but ended up loving are hotel and the city so we stayed on another night. We stayed at a great hotel called PALAZZO CASTIGLIONI, location was near the train and a block away from the Medicci Chapel. The large outdoor shopping market was right out are front door. Shopping here was priced great for all those little gifts you need to bring home. The room we had, all were very large and had wonderful bathrooms, was completely painted in frescoe.
We walked everywhere from this location. We enjoyed a restaurant called Il Latini so much we went 2 of the nights. Very fun,it opens at 7:30 in the evening and I recommend arriving around 7:00 to get in the first seating. The first night we did not get there till 8:00 and waited about an hour but how fun it was, they brought out free wine about 3 times with cheese for everyone. Once inside they put you at large tables, with homemade wine on the tables...help yourself. We took a side trip to Siena but and was surprised how touristy it was. We did hear alot of nice things about Lucca...next time. And there will be a next time!
candee
Brookfield, WI USA 03/23/04
Hotel in Venice
We were in Venice, what a wonderful city, and ended up very unhappy with our hotel. We booked at the Hotel Flora which was in a great location near St. Mark's Square but the rooms do not look at all their website. In fact our bathroom shower was a drain in the floor...water everyehere. Rooms really need to be updated, but if you are looking for location this was a great spot. Loved Venice, did the secret tour of Doge's Palace and throught that was a waste of time. They took you to see the prisons and into the rafters of the Palace, don't bother. Just fun to exlore the city with a map and good walking shoes.
Candee Arndt
Brookfield, WI USA 03/23/04
Quick Trip to Venice
Just spent two days in Venice as part of a nine day trip to Italy. Two days are completely inadequate, but it was better than nothing. Also, it was our third visit to Venice, which I love more and more with each trip.
We stayed at the Hotel San Gallo which was a block and a half off of Piazza San Marco. We got a great rate due to the season, but I wouldn't go back. They've made nice renovations, but our room was a phone booth with a bed in it. I've been to Italy three times now. I know the rooms are suometimes smaller. This was not acceptable. Also, I think I will insist on finding a place with a lift next time.
We ate at Osteria Da Carla and Taverna San Trovaso. Much has already been written about each, all of which is true. Both are excellent, and reasonably priced. Pizzeria Accademia was closed the day we went there to eat, but is very cheap and equally good I'm told. I couldn't disagree more with the negative post about Vicenza. I've been there before. Loved it. But perhaps its not for everyone. Traveling by train in Italy is one of my most enjoyable experiences, but if you travel 2nd class, you get what you get. Vicenza is all about architecture. If you don't find Palladio intersting, there's probably no point in going. Unless you're like me and could find a meaningful experience in any small Italian town. I've been back two days and am already working on plans for the next trip.
Don
Houston, TX USA 03/18/04
Sleeping, Eating, & Transportation in Venice
Sleeping: We just returned from a week in Venice and stayed at the Pensione La Calcina, located in the Dorsodoro district. It's a wonderful location across the canal from the San Giorgio Maggiore church. We stayed in Room 4, which is up only one flight of stairs and has its own porch overlooking the front of the pensione and across the way from the church. Very romantic. Pensione La Calcina is down a ways from the Zattere vaporetto stop so don't go overloaded with luggage. A large continental breakfast comes with the price of the room--you get American cereal, juices, toasts, fruits, ham, cheese, breads, and spreads. The only drawback is that the mgmt. forbids doing laundry and ironing in the room.
Eating:
We tried the cicchetti at Vino, Vino. OK, but nothing special. We enjoyed sitting next to a large, extended family from Belgium and talking American politics. They were very knowledgeable. Agreed with us that Kerry is a better choice for President. Also tried Restorante Oniga. It was very good. I got the spaghetti with clams, which was the best meal I had in Venice. Had lunch one day at Ostaria Antico Dolo. It was good, too, with killer tiramisu. Stephanie, our waitress, was friendly and attentive. However, everything in Venice is psycho-expensive. Lunch with Steph was $125--two entrees, water, a bottle of wine, and one shared dessert. We learned to eat a huge breakfast and only one meal at 3-4 p.m.
Day Trip: We went on the train to Vicenza to see the view from the monastery. The train ride was awful. So-so scenery and a car full of loud and roudy teenagers. When we got to town, we followed RS's advice and jumped right onto Bus #1. It was the bus to nowhere and we went all the way to the end of the line and back. As a result, we had no time to get to the monastery. Basically, Vicenza is the home of an American army base and is that type of town. Why would anyone want to leave Venice to see Vicenza?! The town in the middle, Padua, also looked to be mediocre. We would skip these day trips and remain in Venice.
Shopping: In 1997, the tiny blown glass animals were 50 cents a piece. This time, they were $4.50 - $7.00! Take the price in Euros and add another 25%. Aargh! Just go ahead a buy it and forget that it's so expensive. RS is correct to shop around the Rialto Bridge for better bargains.
Anyway, we had a great time and recommend RS's Venice city guide, with the above exceptions.
Sandra Cassimus <email>
Oklahoma City, OK USA 03/17/04
Staying in Venice/Cannaregio
Rick has mentioned Restaurant Al Vagon in his books on Venice. I would also mention that it is also a hotel in Cannaregio on the Apostoli Canal. Our lovely double bed,french doored, balcony, marble floored with bath on the canal cost us $130. with a discount at the AL Vagon restaurant sitting on the canal. Cannaregio gives you the grocery stores and little village feeling that make you feel comfortable and relaxed.
Joan Caine
Seattle, Wa USA 03/13/04
New Year's In Venice
Pensione Guerrato in Venice was perfect. Location was excellent, Piero was so helpful and warm, and the rooms were as comfortable and modern as we could have wanted. Would not hesitate to send anyone there IF they can do stairs. Celebrated New Year’s in Piazza San Marco (Bring your own wine) -unforgettable experience. Finally, the pigeons left the square!
DS <email>
Minneapolis, MN USA 03/01/04
restaurants
Could someone give me a good reasonably priced restaurant to enjoy dinner in will be going on the 24th of Febuary 2004
dean <email>
swansea, uk 02/22/04
Casa Querini
I want to spread the word about Casa Querini! I stayed there in October
after finding it in "the book". It was the most charming room I had in Italy
(and big)! Great location near the Bridge of Sighs. Helpful Elena even hooked
us up with a restaurant she used to work at - never would have found it
without her.
Heather <email>
Las Vegas, NV USA 02/07/04
Hotel San Geremia
We visited Venice in June 2003. Months in advance, we stiil had a difficult
time booking a room. Finally found found Hotel San Geremia, by phone. Booked
and confirmed via email. Had no problems. The rate was good. The room was
adequate. Hotel staff are a bit quiet and "stand-offish", but not impolite.
The Hotel itself is well located, just down the street from the train station,
in a quiet plaza corner. Convenient to shopping, eating, and vaporetto stops.
I would gladly stay there again.
Dave Spurrier <email>
Berlin, NJ USA 02/05/04
Venice revisited
Been going to Venice every year since 1988. I .usually drive from other
parts of Italy and leave the car at the "generale" parking garage or turn
it in at the Piazzale Roma...across the street are the steps down to the
canal and water taxi..sometimes take the taxi or sometimes walk (depending
on the luggage) to the hotel..(good to stretch the legs) to the Jewish
Ghetto where Hotel Basilea is located....nice service, clean rooms, decent
breakfast, very helpful staff..side street...not too touristy...side trip
to the islands (no need to stay with the group and listen to the sales
pitch), just make sure you're at the boat when it's time to go.
Gatti Chat is a great "tavola
calda" hot table buffet...see what you're getting, etc..fine lunch,
very reasonable....never say "casino" (which means house of ill repute)
pronounce it CAH-ZEE-NU)--slots are loose always take home a few bucks...always
shop side streets farthest away from St. Marks and Rialto...picnicking
from local markets and bakeries is a real treat...and always plan to do
at least one ultra-expensive long drawn out dinner...always wander from
the beaten path, always be adventurous, always enjoy Venice...
Eilena Luzzi<email>
Gibbstown, NJ USA 02/01/04
Hotel Arlecchino
My husband and I also stayed Hotel Arlecchino this past Thanksgiving. We
liked the hotel very much and will plan on staying there again our next
trip. The rooms were a bit small but very nicely decorated and clean. The
daily breakfast was very good and the staff were all very nice and helpful.
Our room even had a view of the canals. I highly recommend it.
NY, NY USA 01/20/04
Venice in December 2003
I started my 5 week Italian trip in Venice and had a great hotel. I found
Hotel Arlecchino off hoteldiscounts.com for 80euros. I had a double bed
and my son had a true twin. We had a great heater in the bedroom and bathroom.
Sabrina, the breakfast person, was outstanding and made me the best cafe
latte. I had 2 every morning with the freshest bread. Marco, the hotel clerk,
was very helpful and friendly. This hotel was situated behind the car park,
Piazza Roma. Luckily my room did not overlook the cars which would spoil
the aura of Venice. There were 2 good restaurants underneath the hotel.
One was Burchielle which was part of Hotel Olimpia. I found Venice very
touristy but my hotel was off this path. Make sure and go to the museum
of sculptures, Casa di Oro.
karin <email>
Anchorage, AK USA 01/17/04
Pensione Guerrato
The Pensione Guerrato was a wonderful hotel and has the warmest and most
charming staff. Piero, Roberto and Giorgio were great. They saved our vacation
from a big disaster. Also, every restaurant suggested by the book was a
fine choice. I do recommend you really study Rick Steves' guidebook before
you leave and follow his information. You will not go wrong! Thank you,
Rick!
Marta Gemme <email>
Lakewood, CA USA 01/13/04
From Antiche Cantine
Owner
My name is Michele and i am the owner of Antiche Cantine Ardenghi. We
are temporarily closed for restoration what had to finish for the end
of January, but unfortunately it is not so. We are late with the licences
and in Venezia it is awful in as the bureaucracy here. We hope that it
is possible to solve as soon as possible, and I will let you know.
For the moment you can find me near the Rialto Bridge which is called Al Paradiso trying to create the same atmosphere. At times someone complains he does not find me or my Lucia wife in restaurant. I am sorry but right now we have a thousand problems to be solved to open as soon as possible Antiche Cantine Ardenghi. However the kitchen is the same and we have created a menu only for the Rick Steve customers euro 60 person, with the wine and the taxes included.
What i am sure that you will understand i working for you to give you the best service and not lose your confidence which is very important to me and my wife. For this I leave you new telephone and E-mail numbers where you can book a table or ask me information on all that you want about Venezia.
Tel 041 5274296 Cell 389 5237691
E-mail ardenghi.club@tiscali.it
Fax 041 5274296
Michele <email>
Venice, ITALY USA 01/12/04
Antiche Cantine de Lucia
e Michael
Michael and Lucia's place has been closed for well over two years. I know
because I lived next door. Their new restaurant, Al Paradiso in San Polo,
is excellent.
Shannon <email>
San Diego, CA USA 12/11/03
(Editor's note: Antiche Cantine is closed for renovation until at least February 2004. We have received both positive and negative feedback about Al Paradiso. Therefore, we recommend dining at one of the other restaurants listed in Rick Steves' Venice 2004.)
Pensione Guerrato
Convenient, atmospheric little hotel. The host was an Old World charmer.
Good breakfast (for Italy). The nearby market can be noisy in the morning,
but we were so taken with the place we chose to regard it as a symbol of
authenticity.
Gary Moss <email>
Atlanta, GA USA 11/25/03
Pensione Accademia
We stayed at the Pensione Accademia. I thought the place was great for the
price, except there was no air conditioning. We arrived on October 11th
and they had turned off the air conditioning for the season and refused
to put it back on. I had confirmed and re-confirmed that the unit has air
conditioning, in fact my voucher stated it, but they would not honor it.
The canal side is so noisy with the windows open that we got very little
sleep. Without the windows open it was unbearably hot. I would not be able
to recommend this hotel from fall to spring. We had a wonderful dinner at
Taverna San Trovaso, but were very unhappy with our meal and service at
Al Gondolieri.
Kathy Meade <email>
Coram, NY USA 11/22/03
Hotel Marin, Venice
We just returned from Italy and have to thank Rick Steves for the recommendation
of the Hotel Marin in Venice. It was very well located (near the train station),
very clean, very reasonable, and had one of the most considerate and helpful
hotel staffs that we encountered! The hotel had just reopened at the end
of September 03 after some renovations. The new management went out of its
way to be kind and helpful. We would strongly recommend Hotel Marin to anyone!
Mike Conners <email>
New Berlin, Wi USA 11/13/03
Hotel Bel Sito, Venice
I stayed at the Bel Sito between Oct. 31 - Nov. 3. I must say that I disagree
with Rick's comments that this is a "friendly" 3 star hotel. On the second
day of my stay in Venice, I had the misfortune of dislocating my shoulder
after a fall near the Grand Canal. Given the seriousness of my injury,
I decided that I needed to abort my trip and return to the U.S. for medical
treatment.
On my day of departure, I asked the day shift front desk manager for two things: (1) a 1 p.m. check out (rather than the posted 11 30 a.m. checkout time) and (2) assistance from a hotel porter with my luggage to the Alilaguna stop at San Marco (a 10 minute walk from the hotel.) The gentlemen was intent on providing me with virtually no help stating that under no circumstances would hotel "policy" allow staff to help someone as far as the San Marco stop; and (2) that requests for late check out were generally only granted if a late check out fee was paid.
In the end after a lot of hassling,
I was able to negotiate a late check out without fee, but was able to
obtain no assistance with my bags despite the fact that I had one arm
in a sling and was in obvious distress. People should be aware that the
rooms at the Bel Sito are very small and uncomfortable. I would not recommend
this hotel.
D. McDonald <email>
pleasant hill, ca USA 11/06/03
Hotel San Geremia, Venice
We visited Venice the beginning of October 2003 and booked reservations
with the Hotel San Geremia confirming over the internet and giving them
our credit card number along with the arrival time, but they still sold
our room. We were advised they were full and the confirmation we had in
hand wasn't a confirmation at all. They did however make a phone call to
another establishment which was 45 minutes out of Venice. With the help
of our daughter who found another room for all four of us, we were able
to sleep in Venice. After arriving home we found out we were charged for
Hotel Geremia. Fortunately, we had the person at the front desk write a
letter stating that our family didn't stay at the Hotel Geremia which has
helped our credit card company.
Teresa <email>
Cottage Hills, Illinois, IL USA 10/14/03
Venice Restaurants
Dinner at "La Rivetta" was the worst experience of our three-week trip in
Italy. The small canal smelled of human waste and the interior of the restaurant
smelled of bug spray. The other diners, all foreigners, looked as sad as
we did with their choice of restaurant. The food was very bland, several
choices on the menu unavailable and the prices much higher than expected.
Two thumbs down for "La Rivetta".
On the other hand,"Birreria La Corte" in the same general area, on Campo
San Polo, had wonderful pasta, great desserts, the best coffee in Venice
and a friendly staff. Two thumbs up for "La Corte".
Diane
San Francisco, CA USA 10/14/03
Venice Restaurants
If you are in Venice, dont waste your time (or money) "splurging" on dinner
with "Michael and whatever her name is" in their private dining room. They
appear to be no longer in business. Their phone was answered by a man who
said he is Michael and referred us to "his new restaurant" called Paradiso.
When we arrived (down a pretty unimpressive alley) near the Rialto Bridge,
we were told that Michael is sick tonight and that the "host" is a "friend"
of Michaels. He says we should choose from the menu (rather than the set
meal promised) and he tells us (several times) that this is the best restaurant
in Venice. He told us that the meal price is 45 Euros each. After a very
"ho hum" meal worth a WHOLE LOT less than 45 Euros, (with no dessert) the
bill is 55 Euros each. Then, despite the credit card stickers in the windows,
he said he cannot take credit cards tonight as his machine is not working.
Good job we had some cash with us! All in all, not a good recommendation
and FOR SURE we would not return there.
Richard Hudson <email>
Nanoose Bay, BC Canada 10/10/03
Venice comments
PENSIONE GUERRATO: Can’t say enough good things about this place or its
people – Roberto and Piero (owners) and Giorgio (evening shift). All three
speak English. We had a sink in our room and a shared bath about 10 feet
away. No AC but the ceiling fan was great. Warning – the juice labeled “Grape”
at breakfast is actually “Grapefruit.” Terry cloth towels changed daily.
OSTERIA EL DIAVOLO E L’ACQUASANTE – just like Rick describes – lots of locals and great food. The waiter is surly to everyone, locals included – don’t take it personally. The fish soup was to die for (zuppa di pesche).
RISTORANTE DUE COLONNE – Excellent pizza place frequented by locals. Ask to sit outside. But watch out for “cavallo” on the menu. It’s horsemeat – a Venetian favorite.
SAN MARCO BASILICA – Did the RS tour – very helpful.
Spring for the altar and the bronze horses (which still exist because
these are not the edible kind).
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Venice
If your looking for a wonderful stay in Venice, you won’t go wrong with
Pensione Guerrato. My wife and I stayed there last year and were headed
back in September. Roberto and Piero could not have made our stay more enjoyable.
From the breakfast, and clean comfortable rooms to an unbeatable location
less that 50 yards form the Rialto bridge, you can’t go wrong.
After the usual sights around San Marco and the Academia, our favorite activity was to get lost (at least temporarily) in the back streets of Venice, find the a small restaurant, and sample the house wine while people watching.
Murano is ok as long as you don’t get sucked into one of the larger tourist glass factories. The glass is beautiful, but we found more reasonably priced items in small shops and you don’t have the pressure to buy.
Don’t forget Burano. Vibrant colors of the buildings,
women and their lace, and more wonderful people watching make this a must
stop.
Tony S.
Des Moines, WA USA 08/02/03
Good Venice Restaurant
My family and I really enjoyed Osteria da Alberto. We were treated very
warmly and the food was delicious. We stayed at the Locanda Novo Venezia
but found it did not have air-conditoning which meant we had to open the
windows (it was early July) which brought in quite a few mosquitoes.
KathrynT
Pacifica, CA USA 07/23/03
Venicecapes Tours
My husband, our 18 year old son and I had a most fascinating day with Michael
Broderick of Venicescapes tours. We took the "Story of the Mercantile Empire"
tour which laid out the history of Venice and helped us to understand and
appreciate the city on many different levels. Michael integrated politics,
trade, geography, medicine, religion, culture, etc. so beautifully. The
tour takes the better part of a day and is not for everyone as it is rather
scholarly but if you really want to learn about Venice and the twists and
turns of it's long and glorious history this is a marvelous experience.
Our son was quite fascinated and, having recently studied European history
in school, gained a great deal more insight into the "whys" of how things
came to be the way they were. We also were presented with a lovely volume,created
by Venicescapes, full of timelines, maps etc. to illustrate what we learned.
When we return to Venice we plan to take take one of Venicescapes' other
tours. If you are interested, you can find Venicescapes on the internet.
You do have to join the organization but the fee is small and is returned
to you as you book a tour.
Nancy
Spokane, WA USA 07/21/03
Learn a little Italian
Rick Steves was my guru on my recent month-long trip to Italy.In Venice,
I stayed at the Locanda San Trovaso,which is a five minute walk from the
Accademia. 90Euro in Venice is a great deal. The staff were friendly enough,
a bit casual, and the room was clean.
One thing to keep in mind when booking a hotel is to ask if any construction work will be going on during the time you will be there. The week after I was there, the neighbors were going to repair a chimney and since the streets are only about four feet wide, it would be extremely noisy. The hotel is in the middle of residential neighborhood, so I could hear the neighbors television which didn't go off until after 11pm. I was on vacation, so I wasn't going to stress about that, but another guest (another Rick Steves reader) complained to the front desk clerk. I'm not sure what she expected him to do.
I ate dinner at the Trattoria ai Cunai, which is
recommended in the book and had a great experience! Rick described the
sisters who run the place as "gruff", and I could see how he could get
that impression, but the sister that waited on me couldn't have been friendlier!
Why? I spoke Italian to her. When you go to another country, learn a few
phrases. Don't be an arrogant American and expect them to speak English.
I don't go to Italy and expect them to speak English. If I wanted my experience
abroad to be like home, I would stay home. Just speaking a little bit
of their language shows respect. And just like Rick's book says, in Venice,
don't try to count your pennies. Just spend your money and have a great
time!!
katie leigh <email>
san diego, ca USA 07/21/03
Venice
We stayed at the wonderful Hotel Canaletto between Rialto Bridge and S.
Marco. My travel agent booked it for us through Holiday House only for 86.00 €/night for Db. It’s a 3 stars hotel, breakfast included (fridge, air-cond.,
blow-dryer and TV are in the room). Absolutely gorgeous, staff is great,
I heard them speaking at least 3 languages quite fluently. Room is furnished
in old Venetian style - Venetian glass lamps, etc, very romantic.
Our favorite place to eat was Roticceria S.Bartolomeo recommended by Rick Steves, very nice both food and service, close to our hotel.
The price for vaporetto for the Grand Canal is not 3.10 as per Rick but 5.00 €.
The gelateria “La Boutique del Gelato”, recommended by Rick, is not worthy to search for - it’s the cheapest, true (0.80 € for a small cup against 1.00 - 1.25 € at other places), but you can find much better ice cream anywhere in Venice without going too far.
If you are going to several Italian cities do your shoes shopping in Venice - great variety and style, high quality, not more expensive then in Florence or Siena, for instance). Don’t go to Mestre hoping to get a better deal there - shoes are cheaper there but the quality and selection are much poorer.
Internet service is very expensive in Venice (3.00
€ for 15-20 minutes, and if you use internet less than 15 minutes, you’ll
pay the price anyway - 3.00 € is a minimum). Wait till you get to Florence
or Rome - Internet Train is great, for 1.00 € - 10 minutes. They give
you a plastic card, and you can use it several times until you spend all
the money on this card anywhere in Italy (as long as it’s at Internet
Train). Be prepared to have your ID when you go there the first time.
C. Vasilyev <email>
Vancouver, BC Canada 07/21/03
New Doge's Palace Number
The Doge's Palace tour reservation line has a new number: 041-5209070 .
That's the new and correct number. I already made my reservation.
Victor <email>
New York, NY USA 07/15/03
Pensione Guerrato and eating in Venice
We recently stayed at Pensione Guerrato and really really enjoyed it. We
had a beautiful room overlooking the street market below (fruit stands and
the fish market down a few blocks). Our room had a sink but no bathroom
for 90 euros per night. The location was top notch because it was in a quieter
spot away from the hustle and bustle of nighttime Venice, but it was still
SO convenient since it was really only a few blocks from the Rialto bridge.
We reserved by email and Roberto and Piero sent us some VERY clear directions
that helped us reach the hotel quickly and easily from the train station.
Also, they were so helpful. Piero happily gave us clear directions to a
bookstore with English books and they were very cheerful. They served a
GREAT breakfast (considering that most hotels skimp on breakfast). Yogurt,
cereal, coffee, tea, juice, croissant, and a variety of other rolls to choose
from. It was great.
Also, the best value for your money in Venice is sometimes the menu turistica
. Many restaurants offer this option and I would suggest taking it. It
usually includes three courses and a dessert (noodle dish, fish or meat
dish, salad, and dessert). We found a few that were only 15-16 euros.
This includes service, but not drinks. You will reach a total this high
quicker in Venice than anywhere at a sit-down restaurant anyway. Get away
from touristy spots! The best deals are farther from Piazza San Marco.
Oh yes, and try the spritzes! Aperol soda with white wine and sparkling
water. Such a great drink! Ask for one at any pub! Enjoy.
Amanda
Seattle, USA 07/12/03
Hotel Campiello, Venice
We stayed at Hotel Campiello for 2 nights early July, and it was great.
The place has been recently renovated, and the rooms (and bathroom facilities)
were spanking new, not to mention full-blast a/c too! Great value for ~100
euros a night. Superb location as well--3 min walk from San Marco.
W H <email>
San Jose, CA USA 07/09/03
Campanile Bell Tower
We loved the view from the top of the Campanile Bell Tower in Venice. But
a word of warning. You don't want to be up there when the bells ring. We
had just come down when the bells started ringing at 6:30 pm. We couldn't
believe how loud they were, and were extremely grateful we were not still
at the top. Rick, it would be great if you could list the times that the
bells ring, so that people can plan accordingly.
Barbara <email>
Seattle, WA USA 07/07/03
venice charm
Have just returned from my second visit to Venice in two years. Both times
we stayed at the absolutely fabuloso Locanda Barbarigo. Located about 5
minutes from San Marco, this charming little hotel is filled with tasteful
antiques, welcome airconditioning, and attentive owners Christina and Vito
couldn't have been more helpful. The big green shutters in our room opened
onto a canal where gondoliers serenaded us nightly. Heaven! I've been to
other hotels in Venice. I will return to this one.
sharon
vancouver, Can 06/30/03
Hotel San Geremia - Venice, Italy
I stayed at the Hotel San Geremia in Venice based on the Rick Steves and
Rough Guides recommendations of it as a good place for single travelers.
I stayed one week and it was perfectly adequate. I then took a weeklong
outdoor painting workshop in Tuscany. I had made my reservations at the
San Geremia to include the following Sunday and Monday nights after my return
to Venice from the workshop and prior to my departure from Italy. When I
arrived at 6 p.m. after a long, hard day of traveling, they coolly told
me that they couldn't honor my reservation because they had guests who wouldn't
leave, but they had arranged to put me in the Hotel Minerva (a very inferior
hotel on the Lista di Spagna) in a tiny room with no TV, tiny bed and which
actually cost 3 euros more than the San Geremia. I was at their mercy as
it was a big regatta day. I spent the next night at the San Geremia without
incident, however I was furious at the inconvenience and high-handedness
of this experience. It cut into my work-time (drawing, sketching & photo)
as well as making me feel very angry and distracted. As a single traveler,
I absolutely do not recommend the Hotel San Geremia in Venice.
Robert Cowan <email>
New York, NY USA 06/21/03
Santa Lucia Hotel
In Venice, reserve 10 months in advance, spend lots of money, or stay on
the mainland in Mestre. It can be nasty there.
Never stay at Hotel Santa Lucia in Venice. Never have I ever been anywhere (I've stayed on every continent except Antarctica) that had such complete and utter disregard for its guests. Your money is to be harvested, and if you don't like it, they are happy to throw you out on the street, because this is Venice and in almost every month of the year there will ALWAYS be someone else.
Specifics: Santa Lucia is mosquito
infested, yes, much worse than all the other hotels. The beds haven't
been replaced for at least 10 years. I'm not making this up, there was
more than 25 cm (~10 inches) between the highest and the lowest points
of my bed. What's much worse is that the staff has obviously heard the
same complaints before, and will do nothing more than make it clear they'd
rather you left, immediately, than bother them with your complaints. The
most recent Lonely Planet guide recommended this place - I can only imagine
that they either got the only new bed in winter (a non-mosquito month)
or, that the management changed and took their decent beds with them since
the recommendation.
Buckaroo Banzai <email>
Paris, 75 France 06/29/03
Avoid Albergo Paganelli
I used Albergo Paganelli, even though there was a comment at this board
about getting locked inside the building. Well, sure enough, the night guard
is in the annex, not the main hotel. The door is locked, and you can't get
out. If there were a fire, you'd be toast! Not worth sacrificing my safety.
The location was fabulous. The room was clean. However, they enter your
room at all times of the day and evening to turn off the air conditioning
and any lights. I'm a single woman traveling alone, and as I left for dinner,
I left on my beside light so as not to return to a dark, unfamiliar room.
It had been turned off in my absence. I complained about it, and they didn't
care about anything but their profit. They will not be changing this policy.
So keep this in mind if you choose to stay here.
Tracy Sober <email>
Akron, Oh USA 06/20/03
Venice - Pensione Guerrato
Stayed in Venice for a few days in May 2003 at Pensionne Guerrato. Wonderful
staff, nice room, common areas are beautiful, all non-smoking, just off
of Rialto Bridge. We would definitely stay here again (make sure you have
your RS book so you can get the discounted rate!).
At the Doge's Palace, we took the Secret Itineraries tour - very interesting and a nice break from seeing the usual castle rooms, you get to go upstairs into the secret rooms of the palace. (BTW - there's a new phone number for reservations).
Definitely take the slow vaporetti just before dusk and "tour" the Grand Canal with RS book. Note that you get off at San Marco's stop but it also has another name (and San Marco is written in small letters beneath it) - we went too far the first time around.
Murano was nice, but the glass museum was a disappointment
- there were nicer (expensive) glass pieces in all the surrounding little
shops.
Sonia <email>
Saskatoon, SK Canada 06/19/03
Wonderful Venezia
We recently returned from our first trip to Italy. In Venice we stayed at
the Locanda SS.Giovanni e Paolo (Web: http://www.locandassgiovannipaolo.it/inglese/presentazione.htm).
Our twin room seemed fairly new and was clean, had timbered ceiling with
a funky venetian glass chandelier, and a small breakfast table. The bathroom
was a decent size and the towels were changed daily. The breakfast is brought
to your room at the time you request. There is no elevator. The location
is close to the Basilica Dei Santi Giovanni E Paolo and about a 10 minute
walk to St. Mark’s Square or the Rialto bridge. At 135 Euros a night, I
would recommend the Locanda SS.Giovanni e Paolo (provided you can carry
luggage up the stairs).
We ate at the Osteria Da Carla recommended by Rick. The food was very good and the prices reasonable. Rick warns about table #3 – the waiters are on to that so we were seated at table #8. Table #8 is now the one just on the other side of the toilets. As a result we heard occasional flushing as we were eating. I suggest you just tell them you don’t want the table next to the toilets.
We went on the “Secret Itineraries Tour”of the
Doge’s Palace. It was very interesting and worthwhile – I would recommend
this tour. St. Mark’s square at night is magical and taking the slow #1
boat ride down the Grand Canal was wonderful. Both the Frari Church and
the Basilica Dei Santi Giovanni E Paolo were fantastic! We really enjoyed
shopping in the Rialto Bridge area and just wandering around, but be warned
– we did get pickpocketed near the Rialto bridge. The shopping bag we
had was not fully zipped and someone took the top few items from the bag.
Thanks again Rick for your great information – our 2 days in Venice was
incredible!!
LA Meharry <email>
Vancouver, WA USA 06/17/03
Venice Hotel
I stayed at Hotel Iris in late May. I do not recommend this hotel to other
travellers because of the staff. I overheard a guest asking the lady at
the desk if she could knew where a laundromat was, and the lady replied
with a very curt "no." I felt very intimidated whenever I had to ask a question
there.
Stacy
Littleton, CO USA 06/11/03
Venice Rocks
Veince definitely rocks. I'm one of the luckiest people alive - I'm in the
military, stationed in Vicenza, which is only about a half hour drive from "La Serrinissima". That means we go there for day trips all the time. My
only advice would be to try to get off the beaten track - it's an island,
you can't get lost - and wander through the back alleys and streets. I'd
love to share my experiences, tips, advice, and whatever else with anyone
who is interested. If you want, feel free to email me and maybe I'll see
you in Venice!
Rik Thibodeau <email>
Vicenza, IT 05/29/03
Nuova Venier
In mid-June 2002 we visited Venice and Nuova Venier with the intent of
buying art glass for our design firm. We were told they supplied are glass
to Tiffany's in New York, but later we found out it was not true! After
making our selection the bill was $18,000US, which they said would require
a 50% deposit. After our return we faxed them asking for a final invoice,
which was never returned after numerous faxes. We asked for a credit since
we had not received an invoice, again no answer. Even our credit card
company had no luck. We have asked them to fill the order and as of yet
we have yet to see any merchandise or the return of our $9,000US deposit.
If you can't take the glass with you don't buy from Nuova Venier.
Tom <email>
Rancho Santa Fe, CA USA 04/22/03
Venice - Ca'Speranza Hotel
I stayed in Ca'Speranza while in Venice. Its not exactly a hotel, more
like an apartment. The room itself was clean and fairly cute. Check-in
was wierd and time consuming. We went to "Accademia di St Marco" office
to check in, (and its possible that no one may be in the office when you
arrive) then had to take a boat 25 minutes away and meet a guy on the
dock who walked us to the room. There was no phone, and no staff. Their
website promises internet access, and a full italian breakfast but there
was neither. They left us one roll of toilet paper for two people for
a two night stay and no one ever came to our room to bring us more TP,
towels, etc. It was a decent place to stay, but just be prepared that
you are on your own once you get there! (You pay at check-in, check out
by leaving your keys in the room, and never have contact with anyone again).
Kara <email>
New York, NY USA 05/29/03
Venice
Just returned from three week trip to Italy (June 2003). Spent three nights
in Venice at Hotel Locanda Fiorita in San Marcos district near the Accademia
Vaporetto stop. Wonderful, slightly funky hotel, with staff who spoke English,
recommended great restaurants full of locals, not tourists. Bought three
day "bus" passes for 22 Euro; a real bargain for the footsore; just hop
on and off, go to Murano, Lido and other near by islands as well as all
of the Vaparetto stops on the Grand Canal. May-June is ideal for travel;
people are fresh, paint is fresh and the flowers are all in bloom. No anti-american
sentiment detected nor felt although sensed a real lack of American travelers,
which is unfortunate for those who did not travel due to real or imagined
fears. Travel now; the Italians are beautiful people and know how to enjoy
life.
Tom <email>
Corona del M ar, CA USA 05/27/03
Pensione La Calcina in Venice
Found in an April '03 trip to Venice that the Pensione La Calcina continues
to deserve the nice writeup Rick gives it (page 210 of "Venice 2003"). Service
is excellent, they like Americans, and their restaurant is convenient for
dinner (especially when you're too tired to do more walking at the end of
the day).
Kent Osborne <email>
Beaverton, OR USA 05/26/03
Hotel and Eating in Venice
We stayed at Alloggi alla Scala and we got their last room at a bargain
price. Problem was it was on the ground floor in the storage room! The windows
were barred like all others in Venice at water level. But it was interesting!
My husband went upstairs to pay the bill and he said the rooms there were
very much nicer. Food in Venice was the best in Italy! We did lots of wandering
during our nightly Ventian Pub-Crawl Dinners and then wandered even more
trying to find our way back home to the hotel. Thanks for the recommendations
Suzi <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 05/24/03
Try a traghetti
Need to cross the Grand Canal, a traghetti is a fun alternative. There are
3 or 4 along the canal, they cost about .75 cents person to cross and provide
a unique experience. A traghetti is a gondola specifically used to cross
the canal. You'll be able to pick out the locals, they're the people standing
for the ride.
C Keathley
St. Louis , MO USA 05/22/03
Doing Venice Right
I've gotten into the habit of visiting Venice almost every year. How do
I afford it? By staying and eating in places such as those recommended in
this guide. How do I deal with all the tourists? I stay in residential districts
such as Canareggio where there are relatively few tourists. And I try to
avoid Saint Mark's Square except in the early morning or in the evenings
when the mobs have left.
One restaurant that is mentioned in the book that I particularly like is Ai Promesi Sposi in Canareggio. I was there 2 years ago with some Australians I met in my hotel and we had a blast! The local patrons of the restautant were mostly senior citizens and the place closed down at about 10:30 PM, but there was no lack of good cheer. We sat down and ate with everyone there and the head chef cooked us a special dish. We even danced. The locals were intrigued with my digital camera, so I took pictures of everyone and then sent them print-outs when I got back to the States. The proprietor even sent me a holiday card that year and invited me back for Carnevale!
This all happened a few days after 9/11 and it
was great to be able to forget my worries for a few hours. I am heading
back there this August. Believe what these guides say about getting off
the beaten track and meeting the locals. You can get really ripped off
in Venice by folks pandering only to the tourist trade. Or you can have
some great experiences like I continue to have.
Joanne Mooney <email>
Huntington Station, NY USA 05/16/03
Venice in May
We just returned from France & Italy and stayed in Venice for a couple of
days. We stayed at the recommended Pensione Guerrato close to the Rialto
Bridge. It was a great location. The hotel was nice, breakfast was great,
and we really enjoyed the neighborhood. I thought it was a great value for
Venice, about 95 euros. They had someone at the desk all the time, they
translated a note in Italian for us, loaned us a hairdryer and sent us to
their bank where we got a great exchange rate. We would definitely stay
there again. Don't miss the fish market. The crabs are still moving and
the clams still have seeweed clinging to them. Get a vaparetto pass. It
is so worth it just to hop on anytime you want. We were asked for our tickets
several times so I wouldn't recommmed trying to get by without a ticket.
Lori <email>
Richardson, TX USA 05/12/03
Venice Hotels and restaurants
Stayed 3 nights in Venice the first week in April. The first night we stayed
at Plazzo La Scala. Nice, but not a 4 star as advertised, more like a 3
and 1/2. Had stayed in the Flora (3 star) the year before and would rate
it superior to the La Scala. Also stayed at the Bauer (5 star). Got a great
last minute rate (170 euros) at europehotels.com. Highly recommend the Laguna
Blu restaurant. Tourist menu at 15 euros was wonderful. You get to choose
from among several entrees - all are great.
Roy Pool <email>
Dallas, Tx USA 04/22/03
Hotel Campiello
Hotel Campiello is great! Thomas, who works in the afternoon, was very helpful
and pleasant. Turns out his mother and aunt own the hotel. By far the nicest
hotel we stayed at and very close to St. Marks, just 50 meters from the
water.
Alan <email>
Draper, UT USA 04/18/03
Venice and Snow
We just returned from a trip to Europe that included a 3 day / 2 night saty
in Venice. It was actually snowing when we arrived (4/6) and someone had
built a snowman in the market near the Rialto bridge. St. Marks was very
quiet in the evenings. We stayed at the Locanda SS Giovanni e Paolo, www.locandassgiovannipaolo.it/inglese/informazioni.htm.
This is a small charming hotel. Our host was Donnatella, a friendly and
efficient young woman. The rooms are very clean and of a decent size, as
are the bathrooms. Breakfast is brought up to your room each morning. The
location is about a 5 minute walk from the Ospitale vaporetto stop on a
very quiet street. All of the major attractions are a short walk away.
Steve <email>
Santa Cruz, CA USA 04/13/03
Venice during Carnival!
We spent 4 nights in Venice during the last days of Carnival (March 1-4)
and loved it. There were thousands of people, mostly French, German, and
Italian, but not very many American or Japanese. There were daily stage
events (music, costume contests, etc.) in San Marco square.
It was difficult to find a room, so book early. We actually were lucky to not find a hotel room because the Hotel Fontana hooked us up with a better room in a newly renovated "typical Venetian palace" across from them. It cost 130 Euros per night, less a 10% discount for cash payment. It's owned by the grandmother of the Fontana's front-desk man, Diego. He speaks excellent English and was extremely kind and helpful to us, especially when my wife became ill. You get breakfast at the hotel too. It's about 2 blocks from Piazza San Marco, but it's far enough away to be quiet. There are restaurants and shops adjacent.
We took a train for about 7 hours to Venice from the Cinque Terre, switching trains in Milan. I think this trip cost about 60 Euros each and we reserved our tickets at the American Express shop in Florence, thinking it would be easier there than in Cinque Terre (and that was probably correct).
Venice is great because there is no car or bus traffic. You walk or boat everywhere. For about $5, you get a 1.5 hour boat ride up and down the Grand Canal. We did that day and night. We also opted for the 10 Euro boat ride (Alilaguna) to the airport from Venice (70 minute ride), rather than the 80 Euro speed boat (30 minutes).
Venice was safe- I was surprised not to see a seedy side of the city. Lots of shopping and restaurants there. It's also more expensive than anywhere else we went- both for restaurants and our hotel.
We took a day trip to the glass and lace islands of Murano and Burano. Murano was okay- we were overcharged for lunch (always ask prices up-front). The glass was interesting, and there was some affordable jewelry there. When a lady tried to sell us a lace tablecloth on Burano for 1,000 Euros, we decided to leave. You can get much cheaper lace here, albeit probably not hand-made.
Our 2 favorite restaurants in Venice were: Ristorante da Raffaele- right on a canal by a foot-bridge, great views. We had a fabulous lunch here, although it was expensive (90 Euros total), but worth every penny. It changed the way we think about vegetables- try the mixed vegetable antipasti (and the seafood and pastas were awesome).
Le Bistrot de Venice- Very interesting as they use old recipes (15th and 16th centuries) from Roman and Venetian museum books! We let the waiter make our dinner choices. Also not to be missed (about 85 Euros).
Buy a good map on arrival as it's difficult to
find a specific address, such as for a restaurant. Don't plan on finding
your destination on the first, or even second attempt, but be patient,
relax, and keep looking and you'll get the hang of it. It's safe and fun
to just walk all over Venice- you can't get too lost because you'll eventually
reach the Grand Canal and you can take a boat back to your hotel stop.
David W. <email>
Cary, NC USA 03/11/03
apartment in Venice
We too rented an apartment from Venicerentals.com and I think they should
be added to your Venice hotel recommendations. Here is the note I sent them,
which describes our experience:
"Dear Denise, We're back home in L.A. after our wonderful Italian adventure.
Thank you for making our visit to Venice most enjoyable. We dined at restaurants
you suggested, shopped in stores you recommended, and had a wonderful
gondola ride to the Rialto bridge, thanks to your advice as to where to
find more reasonably priced gondoliers. In short, you were a big reason
my family chose Venice as their favorite place we visited. Thanks again."
Steve Domier <email>
USA 03/05/03
Hotel to Avoid in Venice
Your book on Venice was a lifesaver! Unfortunately we stayed at the Villa
Mabapa - a hotel not in your book - and boy, were we sorry! The rooms bore
no resemblance to the photos and the front desk staff were rude, rude and
rude! AVOID!
Carol Smith <email>
Seattle, WA USA 03/04/03
Venice in Winter
Venice in winter for a week (pre-Carnevale) for us meant: cold but clear
weather (mid-20's to low 40's); too cold for dueling orchestras in San Marco
Piazza, gondola rides and canal-side dining (except for die-hards); unheated
churches and scolas often colder than outside. BUT also no lines, no cruise
ship passengers, more Venetians than tourists walking around, and we never
made a dinner reservation (just picked a restaurant and showed up at 7:30).
Pros outweighed cons for us.
We booked a 2-room apt. at www.venicerentals.com (seen on Grafitti Wall); Denise was very helpful, met us at the vaporetto stop to escort us to apt.; we paid her 790 euros on arrival with euro traveler checks from AAA (no problem getting other funds from ATM's). We didn't cook but liked being able to make coffee and store breakfast and snack supplies; felt more like real Venetians.
Best transportation tip: upon airport arrival,
go to ACTV desk on ground floor arrivals level (around the corner from
the HUB newspaper stand) to buy your multi-day vaporetto/bus pass (31
euros for seven days for us); then take #5 bus, 20 min. to Piazzale Roma
to catch vaporetto. Saturday bus uncrowded; not sure about weekdays. Will
put book and restaurant recommendations elsewhere on Grafitti Wall.
Richard Foote <email>
Cleveland, OH USA 02/23/03
Hotel at Venice Airport
A noticed a few comments about the high price for a private watertaxi to
the airport (80 euros) if you have an early morning flight. We got around
this by booking a hotel near the airport for our last night (recommend the
Titian - www.titianinn.com about 100 euros) and took the public water bus
the evening before (about 9 euros) to the airport and the bus (1 euro) to
the hotel. The hotel is 1 mile from the airport (main road - see map on
the Titian website) and a (real) taxi the next morning (5 euros) gets you
there without having to get up so early.
Roy Pool <email>
Dallas, TX USA 02/18/03
Hotel Marin, Venice
I'm planning a trip to Venice. Wanted to let you know that as of Jan 1,
2003, the Hotel Marin is no longer a hotel, but rather apartments.
Becca Voelker <email>
Niskayuna, NY USA 01/22/03
Driving From Venice to Florence
There is not much written about driving in Italy for Americans.... Our family
rented a car and drove from Venice to Florence (and back) within one day!
We had to fly home the following day to New York, and the wife and daughter
just had to shop for leather in Florence, LOL! We rented a VW Passat from
Avis, (NY license no problem) which is located at Piazzale Roma, along with
Hertz. Hertz is not charging for mileage, Avis was unlimited, (340 miles
roundtrip).
As an experienced NYC driver, I must say the driving was white knuckled and exhilarating at the same time. The route I took was the Autostrade all the way, with beautifully maintained roads and speed limits of 80 mph., although it was common to be passed by cars doing 120 and up. I found Italian drivers to be very skilled, fast, and courteous over the stretch of road we drove. We drove through the Po River Valley, around Padua and Bologna. Signage is all in Italian, and is all over the roadway. Mileage and exits are very well signed, but overall, route signs are small and can be hard to see when you're flying by at 80 to 90 mph!
We took Rick's advice and exited the Autostrade A1 at the Centaro exit for Florence, and I managed to find my way to the large municipal parking lot under the train station without out a GPS!! We felt like we were in a movie, as we crossed the River Arno with the Ponte Vecchio to our right. The girls got their leather coats and the Mrs. got a nice necklace from the Ponte Vecchio, we had a wonderful Tuscan dinner just off the Ponte, and headed back to Venice, arriving about midnight.
Cost for the car was $123.00 plus one diesel fillup,
and for a family of four, was cheaper than taking the train. And, we had
the freedom of setting our own timing. Roadside rest areas were wonderful
and clean. What a great day's outing from Venice! Next time, hopefully
we'll have more time to take in Padua, Pisa, and the slower secondary
roads.
Harvey Taylor <email>
New York City, NY USA 01/21/03
Venice update
We had a great Christmas in Venice. We found a small hotel that I would
suggest considering. The Palazzo La Scala is between San Marcos and Rialta
and is only 3 months old. It is a small hotel with small rooms. We paid
$100 per night for a double and had a better than average breakfast included
(coffee, pastries, cereal, fruit, etc). Christmas was a great time to be
there. Relatively few tourists and I did not see any cruise ships. The shopping
there was great and the sights uncrowded. I agree with Rick's transportation
suggestions and enjoyed the walk routes. The gondolas were kind of pathetic
especially since it was cool and damp. Only Japanese tourists were in them,
it must have been prepaid or something. The vaporettos are defintely a fun
way to get around.
Bob Schultz <email>
Carbondale, CO USA 01/06/03
Hotel Galleria in Venice
Just made a reservation for Hotel Galleria in Venice. Your 2003 book has
the rate as a Db 110-140. They have since raised the rate for 2003 to 145
EU.
Jan Zausmer <email>
Skokie, il USA 01/03/03
Best of Our Venice Christmas 2002
If you have the bucks, consider the Savoia & Jolanda Hotel, located on the
Riva degli Schiavoni right next door to the world famous Danielli. We stayed
in the junior suite, room 303, with a view of the lagoon to die for! A third
of the price of the Danielli for the same view and professional and attentive
service. Truly the Venice we fell in love with was walking alone at night
after midnight, through the narrow streets and alleyways, coming onto campos,
and purposely getting lost. It was Christmas week, and you could hear a
pin drop. We had Venice all to ourselves and loved every bit of the misty
evenings. Consider Venice at Christmas, we walked into Midnight Mass at
the Basilica, and were awed as all of the bell towers throughout Venice
and the lagoon rang simultaneously at midnight! Incredible experience! The
best meal was had at Antico Martini, a short walk north from the Europa
and Regina, one of our top-ten all time best meals abroad. Indeed, ahhhhhhh
Venice!
Harvey Taylor <email>
New York City, NY USA 01/02/03
new delightful Venice Hotel
We wanted to visit Venice Oct 26th but an int'l marathon there filled up
all the hotels on RS's good list. However, one of the hotels recommended
another, newly-opened hotel and it was delightful! I hope Rick will add
it on his next trip. It is Locanda SS Giovanni e Paolo. It is new in that
the entire interior has been turned from an old building to a beautiful
hotel. It is tiny, non-smoking, with new tiled baths and all new furniture.
There is not a lobby area for breakfast but you tell them the day/evening
before what you want and at what time, and they bring a tray to your room
(all of which have a small table and chairs. There is no elevator but, since
we listen to RS re: packing, it was no problem. Their website is www.locandassgiovannipaolo.it,
which links with their email address. Click on the British flag at the top
to read the website in English. The pictures accurately reflect the rooms,
their rates are great, and the service was wonderful. It is easy walking
distance to everything.
Virginia Lindsey <email>
Hillsboro, OR USA 12/22/02
Ca Venezia an awful hotel in Venice
I would like to caution about one hotel in Venice. It's name is Ca Venezia.
You will find some good reviews about this hotel on Bufgs back packer and
other websites. I stayed there for one night and I was totally ripped off
for 72 Euros. What I got in return was 1) Smelly toilets with door without
latches 2) Toilets not serviced at all 3) Noisy nights 4) Rude staff not
taking the responsibility about anything bad in the hotel.
Padmaja <email>
Newyork, NY USA 10/28/02
Ristorante da Raffaele
We ate here at the RS suggestion, with a table by the canal. The location
couldn't have been better for a classic Venetian evening. The food was good
though pricey. The service at this large restaurant was impersonal but effective,
with one glaring exception. I found that the waiter had charged us 8 Euros
for a half-liter of wine we did not order or get, and did not charge us
for the bottle of water we did drink. I pointed this out and he told me
he was taking 5 Euros off the bill. I said, so this means the water was
3 Euros? His reply was "No, it's two and a half. I'm just rounding up." I thought that was a rather casual attitude with my money after he had just
been caught making a mistake in his favor. The credit card charge slip included
a space for a tip. You can be sure I rounded his tip down to zero.
Tim <email>
Oak Forest, IL USA 10/26/02
Hotel Flora
Echoing the comments in previous postings, we found Hotel Flora to be very
well located in Venice but lacking in some ways. We found the staff to be
quite civil, but not terribly friendly. To their credit, they made the restaurant
reservation we requested by email. Our double room, for which we paid 230
Euros, was the smallest I've ever occupied. The bathroom door only opened
halfway before hitting furniture, and we had to stow a suitcase behind the
main door, so it didn't open fully. When on the toilet, the edge of the
bidet was literally one inch from my knees. The "included breakfast" consisted
of rolls, coffee and a 4-ounce glass of juice. Additional food was expensive,
such as a 4-Euro bowl of cornflakes. We were annoyed to learn upon checkout
that the refills on the juices cost us 2 Euros each. I know Venice is expensive
but that seems excessive. It was nice to just walk a bit to the hotel at
night, but next time I think I'll stay on the mainland and take the boat
in.
Tim <email>
Oak Forest, IL USA 10/26/02
Venice hotel
I notice in the Venice section that no one has mentioned the Albergo Doni
hotel. We were very happy with it. It was very clean & full of old world
charm.
Linda Casebere <email>
Dayton, OH USA 10/26/02
Venice - there is a heaven afterall
My last stop on my recent Italian trip was Venice. Stayed three nights October
19-22 at the Hotel Marin. Perfect location for getting in and out of the
city quick as I arrived late and had to leave early to catch a plane. Staying
anywhere else would have required using a crowded vaparetto and allowing
an extra half hour to get to the airport. The place was lovely. The owner,
Nadia, can be tough. Do not ask her to many questions. She rolls her eyes
back in her head as if to say you are ignorant. At times she was helpful
and courtesy. the rooms were comfortable but with dormitory style furniture.
This, as in the other hotels on my trip, were not that quiet. Italians do
not make sound proof walls. You hear others talk and walking the hallways.
A minor problem really.
Took a Vaparetto ride the first night and went the wrong way around the marina (no views). Do not make this mistake. The Vaparettos are cute but nothing special and crowded. I found Venice to be better walking admiring all the streets, canals and bridges. Literally getting lost in Dorsoduro and other sections were best part of Venice.
Did the pub crawl one night for dinner and it was a delight. In contrast to this, ate one night at the transportation workers cafeteria that Rick mentions. It was a cheap treat (6 euros for a full meal) and the food was good!! Nice to be among the locals here but for only one meal. Do not make a habit of it.
The dueling orchestras on the Piazza was a delight. stayed two hours walking back and forth between orchestras watching them play late at night, the only real activity in Venice at this hour.
During the day, the pigeons did a number on me as I held out my hand with pigeon feed. They are obviously used to humans and fly to you, landing on your head, arms or any other exposed body part.
Take a traghetto to get across the grand canal for only 40 cents!! Beats paying 100 euros for a gondola ride.
The Doges Palace was breathtaking. Made a reservation in advance for the 'secret intinieary tour' and it was a blast learning about the secret offices, passageways, prisons, torture chambers of the palace. Learned that Casanova was once a prisoner there and escaped. Took the elevator to the top of the tower for the best views in the city but you are above the best sights for picture taking.
Saw a Murano glass blowing demo as Rick suggests at a place right off the square without having to go to Murano.
Visited many churches as I did in all my visited cities. Went to the picturesque area in Dorsoduro that has a bridge where fights occurred. Footprints in the cement mark the spot where the dueling took place.
Walk the Zattere for mingling with the locals,
their favorite hangout. Perfect weather my entire trip, bright and sunny,
except day of departure when it poured. Viva Italy.
Mitchell Grant <email>
Coconut Creek, FL USA 10/25/02
Venice Hotel & Restaurant Recommendation
We just returned from a Rome, Florence & Venice trip. The 2002 Rick Steve's
Italy book was most helpful and we also saw many others with the same guidebook.
I highly recommend the Hotel Marin in Venice. It is very convenient to the
Santa Lucia train station. The family that operates the hotel was great
and most helpful. Nadia runs a very tight ship! We also found a restaurant
around the corner from the hotel that was very good--the food, service and
prices. Osteria al Vecio Pozzo on S. Croce 656 Phone--041-524-2760
Craig C. <email>
Oakland, CA USA 10/19/02
Italy
I just returned from Italy. We flew directly into the Venice Airport, and
stayed at a horrible hotel (or course, not in Rick's book.) I do not recommend
the Plaizzo Schiavonni. Next was Menaggio, in Lake Como Area, and we went,
via ferry, to Bellagio. Sadly, Tony the Wine King, long mentioned in Rick's
chapter on Lake Como, died in February.
We next went to Santa Margarita, by Portofino. We stayed at the Hotel Florian, that Rick recommended. It was awesome, as we didn't have reservations, and it was a Friday, and we were able to get a double, for about 74 euro, on the Italian Riveria. We also took a day long boat trip for 26 euro, round trip, from Santa Margarita. It dropped us off at Riomaggiore for an hour, then Monterosso for 3 hours, and then ended in Vernazza for an hour. Very relaxing to boat the Cinqe Terre! Next, we stayed with friends in Passiganno, in Umbria, just 20 minutes from Cortona on Lago Traseimeno. We went to Montepulciano, where Disney is filming the Frances Mayes book, "Under the Tuscan Sun". We got to visit with Frances, her daughter, and new grandson. It was an awesome experience.
Went to Pienza, for the cheese, and salami, and
Torrito for a fine art exhibition with the local artists! We ended with
Florence with really the most beautiful weather you could ask for. We
were told that summer was unusually rainy, but that we got the best weather
all year long. Thanks Rick, especially for all the details that you put
in your book. I like the humor, especially when touring musuems.
Julie
Conifer, CO USA 10/09/02
we love Italy
We just returned from a trip to Italy: 2 nights in Venice, 2 nights in Firenze,
3 nights in Siena and our last night in Pisa. We had a fantastic time! Thank
you, Rick Steves, as this was our first trip and we did it all on our own,
with your help! and it could not have gone smoother. We met SO many people
who were trying to cram too much into too little time, and not staying in
one place long enough to really enjoy it. The Pensione Accademia in Venice
was our favorite hotel - spectacular and what a view from our room! Great
breakfasts, too.
Our pub crawl with Alessandro was a highlight of the trip - great food and wine and a blast! What a nice guy! We stayed at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti in Firenze and it was the perfect location for a 1st trip to Firenze, but we think we will stay in Oltrarno next time, or in a villa outside Firenze and day-trip it. But it sure is nice to be able to walk everywhere.
We rented a car and headed into the hill towns, and were so glad we had done so. The only frustrating times were entering Siena. Yes, Hotel Duomo is RIGHT in Siena, but Rick doesn't mention how intimidating and confusing it is to drive down those old streets, when no one else except for vendors is doing so, and you are running into hordes of tourists walking down the middle of those narrow little streets... please note that you may just want to enter at "Porta Tufi" rather than at Porta San Marco, and roll your luggage the few blocks over to the Hotel! The desk help at Hotel Duomo were the least friendly of all the hotels we stayed at... but the "bellboy" was a delight and showed us a couple other rooms, for future reference, as Room 51, which someone on this site had recommended for the views, had an awful bathroom/shower... basically a hole in the ground in-between the sink and the toilet, with a shower that pulled around you, but you still got everything wet. Yes, the views of Siena are pretty from Room 51, but many of the other rooms have MUCH nicer bathrooms. The terrace was wonderful and we had it all to ourselves one evening as we drank a fine bottle of the local wine, and other than the shower, the room was satisfactory, especially for the great location and the price. Also - remember that you really should go to the TI (Tourist Information) office in a town if you want good directions.
We loved Siena in the evening, watching the passagiata
on the Piazza del Campo (and two weddings one night!), and were glad to
be in easy walking distance of the Piazza. Our favorite places: Venice
(because it is Venice - unreal); Montepulciano, Montalcino,and San Gimignano
... what superb hill towns and how beautiful! We are having 24 bottles
of that fine Tuscany red wine shipped home to us... with no sulfites,
there is no hang over and what a wonderful thing that is! Anyway, we will
return to Venice and then southern Italy in 2 years (for 10 days again),
and then in 4 years, will do Tuscany again, hopefully in a villa with
friends. thanks for all the invaluable help, Rick... by the way, we took
a train from Venice to Firenze, first class, and we had purchased our
tickets from CIT prior to going, and it could not have been easier. Also,
the Florence Walking Tours Uffizi Gallery tour was terrific! and at 2
hours, justlong enough, but informative and well done by young ladies
with art degrees. And the food in Italy.... I better not get started on
that topic! MOLTO buono! Viva L'Italia! Janet and Walt
Janet and Walt <email>
Ponce Inlet, FL USA 10/05/02
San Marco 9:00am Strategy
If you're staying near Piazza San Marco (or even if you're not) you can
do as we were advised and did. Queue at the Doge's Palace for the 9:15 am
ticket office opening. Note: you may see a LONG line at the entrance (on
the canal end of the palace) but when we were there it was all tour groups.
Make your way into the left side of the entrance and wait at the ticket
office which will open at 9:15am. Buy a (terrific) Secret Itineraries tour
in English for 10am (Palace admission + €6 euros) then cross the 'street'
and take the elevator up the Capanile which will open at 9:30. Great views,
great photos and (the book is WRONG) no stuffy windows. In fact, it was
downright chilly mid September. After Campanile, it's 10 and time for your
tour. The tour not only takes you 'behind the scenes' but the guide gives
a great history of Venice at the time of Doges, how an 'aristocratic democracy'
worked. How newly arrived prisoners were placed in cells facing the torture
chamber then after witnessing the torture asked if they had anything to
confess. "it was psyCOHlogy". After the 'secret itineraries' tour participants
are deposited on the 'main' tour route so you can see all of the rest of
the palace on your own. This tour was a good value.
Greg Cable <email>
Charlotte, NC USA 09/30/02
Venice Hotel: Ai Do Mori
Please consider adding Hotel Ai Do Mori to your listing of sleeping places
in Venice. We chose the hotel for its location and were completely pleased.
Our upstairs room was tiny but spotless and was all we needed. We could
even look out our window and see the Campanile. I counted exactly 85 steps
from the clock tower on Piazza San Marco to the front door. Cross under
the clock tower, take the first street to the right and pass a restaurant
painted bright red and just before (ahem) McDonalds is a lighted sign and
buzzer for Hotel Ai Do Mori. Note, it s like a steep floor and a half up
to the reception then your room may be another couple of floors up. We peeked
into the larger rooms and they were downright spacious (and, I think 20-30
Euros more than our €115 per night). Norma and her staff were anxious
to help. If your visit to Venice is brief this hotel could be especially
appropriate because you re so close to the center of the sights. http://www.hotelaidomori.com/
Greg Cable <email>
Charlotte, NC USA 09/30/02
Cafe di Beppi, Venice
One item that seems to be missing is Cafe di Beppi. Go there, eat anything
but end with panne cotta. Vinice was our first stop in a months journey
and I tried panne cotta everywhere else but nowhere was it like there. I'm
planning a nother trip to just Venice, just for the panne cotta at Cafe
di Beppi. If anyone happens to have the recipe, please share!
Shannon B. Pedersen <email>
Hayward, CA USA 09/28/02
Venice
We agree with Rick's recommendation of Hotel Paganelli (convenient location,
clean, quiet, polite help). We stayed four nights and can confirm that our
friends also enjoyed their stay there. Please don't recommend the Ristorante
Aqua Pazza. It is overpriced, the service was crude and rude, and they actually
tried to cheat us. The Venician island of Burano should be recommended for
its wonderful atmosphere, beautiful lacework,and nice residents.
Bob & Pat Arango <email>
Sausalito, Ca USA 09/26/02
Train to Monterrosso
There is no longer a direct train from Venice to Monterosso (Cinque Terre)
leaving in the morning. The only train leaves at 3:00 pm, getting in around
9. To get around this, take a direct train to Genova that leaves around
10 am, and switch trains, getting on one going to La Spezia.
Rachelle Chiang <email>
Arlington, VA USA 09/23/02
Venice Card
The Venice Card, endorsed by the Municipality of Venice through a non-profit
company and introduced as a way to encourage visitors to Venice to plan
their visit in advance, is a combination of a pre-paid card with a package
of services (transportation, use of public toilets, and entry to some museums)
and a discount card (it now offers reductions at the Biennale di Architettura,
the Jewish Museum, and Fondazione Querini, to name a few). We are hoping
to enrich the package even further.
In 2003, we are convinced that the Venice Card will be the best value
out of the large variety of sightseeing passes that are currently available.
The only thing the City of Venice asks in exchange is that visitors reserve
their Venice Cards at least 48 hours in advance. This is really the best
way to deal with too many visitors on too many days of the year and to
keep tourism sustainable in the interest of both inhabitants and tourists.
Jan van der Borg, Venice Card <email>
Venice, Italy 09/20/02
Venice
Selecting from Rick's hotel recommendations, I chose Pensione La Calcina,
for its canalside location on the Giudecca near the Museo Accademia, for
its breakfast terrace, and for its history as John Ruskin's House. I got
the smallest single--no facilities--but with a sideview of the canal and
AC for Euro 72. They serve a satisfying breakfast.
I had the added pleasure of reading Ruskin's "The Stones of Venice" to prepare. I bought a book in both Italian and English, "Ruskin in Venice" with his watercolors of palazzos. The two best books I read to prepare were Jan Morris' "Venice" and Mary McCarthy's "Venice Observed." Both include lots of the history of the Serene Republic and what makes Venice the way it is--all about facades, image and reflected light.
The pub crawl with Alessandro was a highlight of my stay. He was gracious about adding me at the last minute. His wife is beginning to complain about his being out several nights a week and he would prefer that visitors email ahead. As a single traveler, this was a great way to hook up with a group when I wanted company. As Rick says, the cichetti bar snacks are a very satisfying meal. Those who joined me in the crawl on 9/11/02 can email me for our group photo. Venice observed the 9/11 anniversary with an elaborate concert at Piazza San Marco.
Other highlights were the tour of the original Jewish Ghetto and the Secret Itineraries tour of the Doge's Palace, including Casanova's two top-floor cells in "the Leads" and his over-the-rafters-and-down-the-Giants Staircase escape route.
Rather than take an expensive water taxi at 4:30 am to catch my return flight, I stayed at a very satisfactory small garden hotel 5 min. from Marco Polo Airport. It's La Fenice. You can park there for free vs. 18 euros to park if you drive all the way to Venice's parking garage. All I have is the fax number: 041 5420161. It's just 5 minutes from Venice by public bus. (Euro 1.77)
Last tip--unlike Rick, I took Italian at North Seattle Community College and it added immeasurably to my visit, as did Rick's phrasebook.
Checking through SeaTac on 9/17 took 1 1/2 hours.
Turns out it was the first day for 60 new security screeners.
Sarajane <email>
Seattle, WA USA 09/19/02
Paganelli -- Bad Experience
Contrary to the previous writer, we did not have a good experience at the
Hotel Paganelli. We had the audacity to ask to see our room and the desk
clerk (son of the owner) gave us a chilly stare, and asked "Why?" The claim
in the Rick Steves guide that all rooms have been renovated is an overstatement.
Also, when my wife got up the next morning, she found that all exit doors
were locked and no one answered the house phone. We were left to ponder
what would have happened in an emergency. After the weakest breakfast
of our trip, we checked out and found a better place. Yes, this hotel
may have a good location, but we would rather have had a lesser location
and a better attitude.
David <email>
Minneapolis, MN USA 09/02/02
Hotel Paganelli
I was searching this site because of an upcoming trip to Venice and wanted
to add very positive comments about the Hotel Paganelli that Rick recommends.
It is a stone's throw from the famous Danieli. The Paganelli is GREAT and
a good deal for the superb location, but I'd recommend you get a room with
a view. I called ahead and asked for one, and got a great room when I arrived.
Ann <email>
Bethesda, MD USA 08/19/02
Trains, Boats and Sky!
We stayed in Vencenza and road the train in to Venice. The trains are very
nice to get in and out. We were amazed at how wonderful Venice is! There
are pay WC's everywhere. We found it to be very clean and exciting. We wandered
just like Rick said until we were ready to head back. We followed the signs
to San Marco and caught the boat back. Just like home we took a wrong turn
and found some construction on the sewers and yes they stunk! But we ran
a few blocks and the smell was gone.
We rode the #4 which was the least crowded and most "direct". It goes one way out past the SHIP docks and then turns up the Grand Canal (stops at St Marco SQ.) back to the train station with few stops. You can get your ticket at the pier off the train station to the left. The lady we talked to spoke excellent English despite our attempts to use the phrase book! Under 11 years old, my daughter rode free but was noted on the ticket. Remember to validate your boat and train ticket BEFORE you get on. We forgot to for the train and the conductor was very nice to help us even though he did not have to.
Remember that the water in Venice reflects the
color of the sky, just like your local lake. So if it is cloudy, the water
will look grey. We were there the day after a large storm, and the sky
and water were clear blue! WE LOVED VENICE!
Doug <email>
Youngsville, NC USA 08/07/02
Nice apt. in Venice
I found a great addition for your Venice accomodations section. We rented
a very cute, recently renovated apartment with a new airconditioning and
a new washing machine (two huge bonuses!) in Venice for Euros 120 A NIGHT
for a week. That price included everything but our tele use. We were in
a nice spot near Rialto Bridge and close to a vaporetti stop, near a lot
of good restaurants that Rick recommended....we too like da Carla. The apartment
was small but so nice, very clean, airy and bright with rooftop views, and
best of all it had a type of terrace on the roof which was just unbelievable.
It was perfect for 2 people only with good legs, there are 3 flights of
steep stairs to do! Contact Denise at Venice Rentals and ask for the Aponal
apartment. Her phone in Boston is 617-472-5392, but I think they spend high
season in Venice. The Venice office number is: 39-041-276-9798 Their site
is www.Venicerentals.com
vitaM. <email>
M, GA USA 07/22/02
Doge's palace tour
Enjoyed Venice on a recent trip. We took the "secret tour" of the Doge's
Palace. Tip: You must bypass the line waiting to buy regular admission tickets
and go to the Information desk to buy your tickets. I stood in a long line
unnecessarily.
Tim
DE USA 07/21/02
Charming , but Touristy Venice
We loved staying at the Pensione Accademia. The gardens are beautiful and
the staff was helpful and friendly. The breakfast is on a beautiful canal
side terrace and was huge with lots of choices. They no longer have a "big
family-of-5 room with canal view" as stated in Rick's book. We got a superior
room with 2 extra beds. When I showed them Rick's book, they scoffed and
asked me, "This is the bible, no?" Besides that we still enjoyed our stay
there. What a value!
Eating at Ristorante da Raffaele was a treat! Good food, wine and service. Be sure and make reservations to sit canalside.
We thought the food and atmosphere at Taverna San Trovaso was too touristy. The food was very bland and the service slow even by Italian standards. We only saw Americans eating there.
Our favorite part of Venice was just riding the
vaporetti up and down the canal and walking some of side streets and exploring
Venice. We were a little disappointed in how touristy Venice was. The
least Italian of the places we visited.
Gaye <email>
Denver, CO. USA 06/29/02
Tour Guides
I really enjoyed my stay in Venice. What makes Venice so magical is that
it is so rich in history. I would like to recommend taking a tour of the
Grand Canal so you can see the beautiful palaces and gain an understanding
of Venice's history. I booked a boat tour with "Venice Walks and Tours".
Our guide, Monica, was very informed about the architecture and history
of the palaces and added to the tour with anecdotes about life in Venice.
The tour definitely added to my experience of Venice!
Denise <email>
West Palm Beach, FL USA 06/27/02
My tips for seeing Venice
We just got back from a GREAT trip in Italy, which included 2 days in Venice.
We were driving, so we got off of the Autostrada in Mestre. Mestre is just
over the bridge from Venice, on the mainland. We stayed at the Holiday Inn,
it s right off the Autostrada. It has a guarded parking lot, a daily shuttle
up and back to Venice and best of all, it s MUCH cheaper than staying in
Venice. We paid 110 Euros per night for 2 people.
We found the # 5 waterbus is MUCH faster to Murano than the # 41. Pick
it up at St. Marks and get off in Murano. The # 41 makes about 10 stops
before Murano.
Brad G. <email>
Orange County, CA USA 06/14/02
Alesandro's Pub Crawl
Alesandro was an absolute joy. He is very knowledgeable and fun to be around.
His pub crawl is priced right and we strongly recommend it. The Hotel Astoria
was clean and comfortable. It is fun to get lost!
Jeanne <email>
Kalamazoo, MI USA 05/28/02
Hotel Flora
I agree with Todd about the Hotel Flora. We were there a couple of years
ago. One desk clerk was pleasant but the rest of the management were cold
and abrupt. The room was tiny and dumpy. The bathroom shower was very uncomfortable.
If I were paying less for the room, I wouldn't complain, but their prices
aren't cheap.
Adrienne
NY, NY USA 05/28/02
Venice Guide -- 2002
Just returned from a 3 day trip to Venice. Picked up Rick's city guide in
Dulles Airport in Washington, DC just as I was leaving. Found the book to
be extremely helpful on how to budget my limited time in the city. Especially
appreciated the tips on boat travel and walking tours. I am now going to
order your London City guide, in anticipation of a trip there in the Fall.
I wish I had your Florence guide when I was there. Thank You again.
Ed D <email>
Arlington, VA USA 05/27/02
Hotel Flora
We stayed in the Hotel Flora (San Marco 2283, off C. Larga XXII Marzo, near
Cam San. Moise; info@hotelflora.it, Tel: 041-5205844, Fax: 041-5228217).
It was very near St. Mark’s Square, so the location was good. It was pretty
nice, but I am not sure it was worth the rather high price (over 200 Euros).
My wife thought it was charming and tastefully furnished. The islands of
Venice are rather small and flat, and it is quite easy to walk everywhere.
I think I would prefer to stay a bit farther from St. Mark’s and to save
money on a hotel. Venice is beautiful, but there is not nearly as much to
do there as in Rome, and it is rather quiet at night. The most fun thing
to do in Venice is to go to St. Mark’s Square after dinner and hang out
at Café Florian (or the other café across the way) and listen to the small
orchestras playing. When we left, we went to the airport in a water taxi
(at 05:00, very early!); it was expensive at 80 Euros, but you have no choice
if your flight leaves early. My wife enjoyed it, because, as we sped away
from Venice under cover of darkness on the open sea, it felt like we were
in a James Bond movie!
Todd Whitehurst <email>
Frazier Park, CA USA 05/22/02
Venice
We had a great time in Venice last summer. My 6 year old daughter loved
feeding the pigeons in the Piazza di San Marco. She would toss out the corn
but some landed under the feet of some unsuspecting tourists who we listening
to their guide. Suddenly they realized they had a mob of pigeons at their
feet and began to jump and dance around. The rest of the adults in our small
group started to "accidently" toss corn at the feet of inattentive tour
groups and stood back to watch the spontaneous dancing. We called it the
"pigeon polka".
KMB <email>
Lafayette, CO USA 05/12/02
Venice
I enjoyed two days in Venice and followed your advice "by the book." As
always, your museum and church tours make these sights all the more interesting.
Some specific comments on your Venice city guide:
Hotel Fontana - Location is very convenient for sightseeing. Almost everyone there speaks good English. My room (single with bath on the top floor) was clean, neat and very quiet. However, the room was a bit stuffy and there was no fan ("ceiling fans" according to your book). I would avoid it in the summer.
St. Mark's to Rialto Walk and Rialto to Frari Church Walk - loved it because it avoided the most touristy areas. Your suggested itineraries said to do these walks starting at 9am. You should note, however, that most shops along the first part of this route are not open that early. For example, the Church of San Moise, Vino Vino and Matteor Lo Greco studio were all closed when I got there.
Osteria Da Carla - Delicious food, good wine and
friendly service. While you called it a "hole in the wall," I would describe
it as homey or casual. Great way to enjoy a fine meal after a long sightseeing
day. I also like the quick-and-dirty history on Venice in the Appendix.
It makes for good and appropriate reading on the train ride to Venice.
Thanks to you and your staff and keep up the good work!
Amy <email>
Oakland, CA USA 05/05/02
We tried out Venicerentals in a 2 bedrm apt.
We just rented an apartment with Venice Rentals and were pleasantly surprised.
We were a little leery in staying in an apartment as we have never done
it before. We found many write ups on your board and ending up booking a
2 bedroom 2 bath apartment for a week near Campa S. Stefano and C. S. Angelo
in the S. Marks district. Everything was great, their service was superb
truly, the apartment (nicer and bigger than expected) and the price ($180
a night) was unbeatable by other companies and hotels we checked online.
You should highly recommend them to your readers, its a true find in Venice.
Here's their info. www.Venicerentals.com mail@venicerentals Phone in Venice:
From U.S. 011-39-041-276-9798 Thumbs up!
Patricia A. Kaminsky <email>
USA 04/09/02
Easy Into Venice
Seems a lot of folks have problems getting into Venice without a hassle.
No matter how you approach Venice, do the final leg by rail. Even if you
are driving, park your car in a garage in Verona, Vicenza, Padova, or any
town along the rail line into Venice. For the Military traveler, park at
the Army base at Vicenza (day parking only) and take a taxi to the train
station, ride in comfort right into Venice. You also may leave your car
in Mestre. There are both open and covered parking directly in front of
the train station and they cost a fraction of what it costs to leave your
car in Venice. You can then reach Venice by train (departure every 5-10
minutes). S.Lucia (Santa Lucia) is the name of Venice's Train Station. No
hassle, and the train is inexpensive even for a family of 5 as we found
out.
Dave
USA 04/03/02